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Victorian Kitchen on YouTube

posted by: teresa_nc7 on 03.28.2012 at 08:38 am in Cooking Forum

As this is definitely cooking related, I wanted to post a link to this series from Great Britain that can be found on YouTube. I watched this first episode but couldn't find subsequent episodes in amongst the Victorian Kitchen Garden listings. Is there a special way to search on YouTube?

You can watch the restoration of the kitchen they used for the series. I love the older lady who is the "cook" - she seems to really know her stuff and has a great memory still. But - egads! - 3 days to make a stock?


Here is a link that might be useful: Victorian Kitchen


clipped on: 03.28.2012 at 06:14 pm    last updated on: 03.28.2012 at 06:15 pm

RE: spreading/ shaping bread (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: teresa_nc7 on 03.26.2012 at 08:24 am in Cooking Forum

Here it is! I found my original post by doing a CF search.......will wonders never cease!

Here is a link that might be useful: The Back Home Bakery tutorial


clipped on: 03.27.2012 at 03:06 pm    last updated on: 03.27.2012 at 03:06 pm

RE: Curtain Lining & Puddling (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: sallymo on 02.15.2012 at 09:26 am in Home Decorating Forum

If she wants what I call a "Puddle", and not just a "trouser break" on the floor,I've made the hems a little differently. Because of vacuuming and cleaning, she will have to raise the drapes off the floor each time. If you'll sew the lining and face fabric together at the hemline and make a pocket for a drawstring (actually the face fabric is a little longer and folded over to the lining side and stitched), you'll really like the way they lay on the floor. This only really works if you add an extra 10-12 inches to the length for a pouf effect. If she wants more of a messy puddle, she might not like the look. Also, by installing a cup hook behind the drapery (about 12" off the floor), she can attach the drawstring to that while cleaning.
I'm attaching a picture of puddling done in that way.
Puddled panels

Actually, the far right panel is the only one really showing the puddle!


clipped on: 02.15.2012 at 03:49 pm    last updated on: 02.15.2012 at 03:50 pm

RE: How to get white rooms to look great at night (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: live_wire_oak on 01.09.2012 at 11:28 am in Home Decorating Forum

Most people who aren't professionals, either decorators or photographers etc., have no idea how much light is really needed in a home. You need layers of light, from the top of the room down to the bottom. The most flattering is indirect light, which is why they will use screens to bounce light off of during a photo shoot or filters to diffuse the natural light (Bee's sheets over the windows.)

Starting with the top, a semi flush fixture with a shade will point the harsh light at the ceiling and bounce it off of there while the diffused light that passes through the shade gives an ambient light level for the room. It should be on a dimmer, and any room larger than 12x14 needs at least two ceiling fixtures. You may not always use these lights, but something has to be on the flip switch immediately when coming into a dark room and these are usually already hardwired.

The second layer is also general lighting, and that's from recessed lighting. My personal lighting trick with recessed lighting is to choose trims designed for the shower. They have a lens cover over the bare bulb, so you get intense, but diffused light.

The third layer is accent lighting. You also want to make sure to use the recessed lighting for proper accent lighting, such as washing down a wall. That involves lower wattage spot lights rather than higher wattage flood lights. That is the biggest "secret" in using dark paint or dark furnishings. When you properly light that dark wall with pools of light washing it down, it's stunning. If you don't have that, it will be flat and "cavelike". You can also use sconces to get those warm pools of light onto the walls.

The fourth layer is task lighting. That means lighting at the human level down where people will be using it. In a living room type space, that means lamps. A rule of thumb is that a room that is at least 12x12 will need at least 3 lamps in it, and if the room is larger, you will need larger lamps and more of them to provide the proper scale.

The fifth layer of lighting is drama lighting. You may not use this lighting every day, but it adds "oomph" to those special occasions. Uplights for plants and behind large furniture pieces to cast shadows on the ceiling. Rope lighting above crown molding. Small "character lamps" like a Tiffany turtle or the old hula girl "TV lamps". These add the drama and that makes a room interesting.

These layers of light all work together. It's not just about being able to see to read or to eat. It's about highlighting architectural features and creating intimacy and a warm ambiance.


clipped on: 01.10.2012 at 02:54 pm    last updated on: 01.10.2012 at 02:54 pm

Antiquesilver - more photos please

posted by: country_smile on 06.25.2010 at 02:18 pm in Kitchens Forum

Antiquesilver: I saw the photo you posted of your kitchen on another thread and wanted to ask for more photos but I didn't want to hijack the thread. Would you mind posting more photos? I'd really like to see a shot of the cabinets you have above the fireplace. Your kitchen looks lovely and has some original elements that I think others would enjoy.


Kitchen photos
clipped on: 07.28.2011 at 03:02 pm    last updated on: 07.28.2011 at 03:02 pm

RE: Can I have concealed hinges on inset/flush cab doors? (Follow-Up #14)

posted by: antiquesilver on 09.18.2010 at 12:29 pm in Kitchens Forum

Okay - I'm confused, but I'm easily confused about hardware terminology, LOL, so I'll need to see pictures. If your hinge isn't attached to the cabinet wall, what's the problem with attaching it to the face frame? If there's not enough width of frame, a strip of wood can be added to the inside of the cabinet to make it(the cab side) flush to use the above hinge (I have this situation on a lower cabinet).

Below is a thread containing some photos of my kitchen. The finish is milkpaint, with the inside being a heavily whitened version of the outside streaked with the dark color.

Here is a link that might be useful: Antiquesilver's Kitchen


clipped on: 09.24.2010 at 02:38 pm    last updated on: 09.24.2010 at 02:38 pm

RE: tips for staging kitchen for photos? (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: dboxmeyer on 06.08.2010 at 11:15 am in Kitchens Forum

Some general indoor photography tips:

-An overcast day, or a time of day when you don't have direct sunlight will reduce the contrast between natural light and artificial light and make the kitchen seem brighter. Turn on all indoor lights to supplement natural light.

-If you have the ability, HDR photography yeilds excellent results indoors - this means taking multiple exposures of the same shot at different exposures and then combining the images into a single image. Photomatix makes an excellent software that can do this automatically if you can take the pictures and I think they have a free trial version.

-Use a wide angle lens if possible - it'll make the room look larger. Don't go so wide that everything looks warped. Some distortion can be corrected in software.

-Shoot from a lower angle than typcial eye height, but not so low that you can't see the countertops. This will make ceilings look higher and give the impression of more space.

-A tripod can really help you setup and analyze your shots - plus it helps ensure you are level and steady.

-Flash can help even out dark corners in your kitchen. You mention having a nice camera - if it has an external flash, great. If not, you can have a friend use a reflector to fill in some areas with flash. Direct flash is often to high contrast and will show in reflections.

-Props are important and Bee did a great job convering that topic. Only thing I'd add is to be careful not to add to many items. You want it to look appealing but not so personal that a potential buyer feels like they are spying on a private space. Also, you really need to be careful not to make the space look cluttered with to many things.


clipped on: 06.08.2010 at 12:55 pm    last updated on: 06.08.2010 at 12:55 pm

RE: tips for staging kitchen for photos? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: beekeeperswife on 06.08.2010 at 10:26 am in Kitchens Forum

Well, I can tell you what happened at my photoshoot last week. You can look at the pictures in the thread below, just pay attention to all of the details... Just remember, the canvas was blank, and we put everything you see in the photo into the shot, on purpose.

Camera height--lower than if you were standing and taking the photo.

Great looking food--the carrots with the tops, the purple eggplants, red spring onions with the tops. Then placed on a great chunky cutting board that makes a statement.

The flowers were in the background, not featured. The bells of Ireland that are in that arrangement had to toned down--they were jutting out and making it look distracting.

Also, the pot on the stove was purposely chosen--didn't go with a green, or a stainless, but something with a pop of a different color.

Notice the pellegrino bottles lined up? They are strategically hiding an outlet. We tried a bowl of lemons and a bowl of limes, but the limes worked better for the look.

Since the "story" that was being told was "preparing for a dinner party", you will notice a couple of dishes with pretty napkins and wine glasses on the counter in the background. See the cookbooks there too?

Notice the towel hanging over the edge of the counter? They referred to this as softening the edge. The knife is placed on it on the island and a wooden spoon near the stove. Speaking of the island, the stuff there is "low" in height so you could shoot over it and see the whole kitchen--rather than placing flowers there.

I hope this helps.

Here is a link that might be useful: Bee's photos


clipped on: 06.08.2010 at 12:53 pm    last updated on: 06.08.2010 at 12:53 pm

Instructions for posting pics, thumbnails and imbedded links

posted by: angelcub on 05.30.2007 at 06:29 pm in Cottage Garden Forum

STICKY: PLEASE DO NOT POST TO THIS THREAD SO IT WILL REMAIN AT THE TOP! And thanks to MeMo, Nell and Mrs. Gallihad for the great instructions! :)

Adding this post over here in hopes that it makes things easier for the newbies. If no one posts to this over here, it will always stay on top! Thanks.
Lots of new folks around and about the forum...many asking how they can put pics in their posts. So I have a minute lol.

PLEASE wonderful new people...try, whenever possible, to post your pictures in the "Gallery" (links are just above the list of conversations and discussion threads). This helps all our dial-up users to enjoy the discussions without having to wait for pictures to load.

I use PhotoBucket (PB)to store my pics so that's the way I'll write these instructions. PhotoBucket is simple to upload to from your hard drive. And it's simple to post into the forum from.

1) You'll have to open a PhotoBucket account(Free). Be sure to make your pictures available to the public so you can post links to your, oh so very full now, album too.

2) In PB click on browse and it will take you to your hard drive on your computer where you'll choose the photo you want to upload. Just click your photo and you'll see it's description appear in the line below. Then click send or save (depending on the version of your browser). Now you can upload picture after picture this way or just one if you want. Then click upload in PB. It takes a few minutes and then you'll get a message that everything has uploaded correctly.!

3) Open another browser window and bring up the GREAT Cottage Gardens forum.

4) Write your post to the point where you'd like to insert your picture.

5) Now return to the PB site. Below each picture you'll see three lines of code. URL, HTML and IMG. Highlight (click in the space at the very beginning of the line of gibberish) the HTML line of codes. Copy it. (right click on the highlighted line then click on COPY from the menu that pops up).

6) Return to the CGF and click the post you started where you want the picture to appear. Now right click and a drop down menu will appear. Click PASTE. You'll see a whole string of code gibberish where you want the picture in your post.

7) Finish writing your post, or add more pictures.

8) When you click on preview message the string of gibberish will turn into your picture.

9) Be sure to click SUBMIT MESSAGE to send it to the forum just as you normally would when posting text only.

Okay....GET BUSY! We are dying to see your flowers!!

And newbies....please never think that your garden is too weedy, small, unfilled, under-landscaped, wrong style or any of the other excuses people can come up with to procrastinate this step with. We are all here for the same reasons. To learn, to share, to help. Next year one of you can do the instructions LOL!

MeMo...who hopes she didn't forget anything

It's been suggested that large numbers of photos cause slow loading on even DSL when the threads get long. One way to handle large numbers is to post a link, easily done in Photobucket IF your albums are public.
Thumbnails are another option. Here's How:

Access Your Album.
1) At the top, next to 'Welcome, (Your Name)' - Click on 'Account Options'

2) Click on 'Change Album Settings'
Uncheck Display URL
Uncheck Display Tag
Uncheck Display IMG


3) When you return to Your Album, you'll no longer see tag lines below your photographs, only a check box and your filename under each thumbnail.

Check the thumbnails you want to display in a post.
Scroll to the bottom and click on the button "Generate HTML and IMG Codes"

4) Highlight and copy the first set of codes -- it should say above the codes 'HTML images for Ebay, Livejournal....

5) Paste the codes in your post.


Sometimes, for the benefit of those who are not familiar with thumbnails, I type something like, "Right click on the thumbnail to view in another Window."
Viewing in another window or tab keeps members not familiar with going elsewhere from losing the thread they were reading.


IMBEDDED LINKS (inserted into body of message)
To post a link you need to use a little bit of HTML. HTML tags begin and end with < and >. If I put those in the examples though nothing will show so I'm going to leave them off for the examples.
Start off with [karat]a href="

Then paste in the address (URL) of the picture you want to link to.

close with "[karat]

Now type whatever word or words you want to be underlined and blue.

end the tag with [karat]/a[karat].

You should end up with:

Don't forget the quotes around the URL or it won't work.



clipped on: 08.06.2007 at 01:46 pm    last updated on: 08.06.2007 at 01:46 pm

real copper or just a copper fiinish? (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: flyinghigh on 06.27.2007 at 01:50 pm in Kitchens Forum

There is only one true line of "real" solid copper faucets that I am aware of - Sonoma Forge. We bought one from for our bar about 2 years ago. We love the living finish and the look of the faucet. There expensive, but very unique.

Every other faucet that has a "copper finish" is some sort of bronze or alloy that is plated and sealed to look like copper. I have an Antique Copper faucet from Graaf that we use in our office, and it looks great with the copper sink we bought (we bought both the faucet and sink at, it's heavy and it has held up well to daily use - but again, it's not "solid copper".

Good luck!


clipped on: 06.27.2007 at 02:31 pm    last updated on: 06.27.2007 at 02:31 pm

RE: Stainless backsplash behind range? (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: brunosonio on 06.10.2007 at 03:45 pm in Kitchens Forum

I second the "what?", LOL. I put one in behind our Wolf rangetop and hood, love it. It cleans up easier than anything out there, and only cost my $98.

If you do this, do not buy it from your appliance dealer. Go to a metal fabricator shop, have it custom made. I went to one in the part of our city (Seattle) that services the Alaska fishing fleet. They did one for me about 42" x 38" for that price. It comes with a protective plastic film on the side you want not remove this until after installation.

You also want to ask for the brushed #4 finish. That is the standard SS appliance finish.

Make sure it's about 1/8" smaller than the widest point...for us it was the Wolf 42" hood. This will give you a better transition from hood/stove to backsplash. You do not need any fancy mounting boards, unless you want a more 3D look.

I didn't want any screw or nail heads exposed, so we used one of the Liquid Nails high heat/metal products to glue it to the wall. We propped it into place with wood blocks, and taped it to the wall until it dried.

We then installed the hood and rangetop. I extended the backsplash about 2 inches behind each appliance.

For cleaning, use SS Magic. First you wash down the backsplash with a bit of Dawn and warm water to remove manufacturing oils. Then apply the SS Magic heavily, spraying it onto the soft cotton cloth, not the metal. Let it sit for about 5 minutes, then buff off, again with a soft cotton cloth, buffing in circles to spread the product evenly.

Cleanup is a breeze after this. The SS Magic leaves a protective coating...spray some SS Magic on the cloth again, then wipe the grease off. It comes off immediately with no streaking, no fuss, and no heavy buffing.

I do this once a week to clean the backsplash. We do very heavy sauteeing and wok cooking, so there is grease everywhere, but the backsplash still looks completely new.

We love the SS backsplash...the rest of the kitchen is heavy on unstained cherry cabinets and wood floor, so all that SS doesn't look cold and clinical. And it's well lit from the light of the hood.


clipped on: 06.11.2007 at 02:11 am    last updated on: 06.11.2007 at 02:11 am

RE: rubbed oil finishes on cabinets (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: rococogurl on 06.03.2007 at 12:50 pm in Kitchens Forum

I agree that tung oil is a very viable DIY cabinet finish option. All that's needed is patience and a strong arm for sanding. Ivette's counters (hell, her kitchen) are gorgeous.

I DIY tung oil finish on our mantel. It had been stripped and was quite dry. It took about 4 applications before it was "absorbed." It really did take a long to to dry between coats -- I left it for a week or two after each.

Our ash floors also were done with tung oil. That was before we moved in.

Our powder room floor, however, is 19th C reclaimed oak barnwood. It's 25 sq ft and had been done with tung oil but dried out. I bought some Waterlox (medium sheen), opened the windows and did 3 coats over a few days. It does smell so I closed the door (leaving the windows open). The worst of the odor was over within 48 hours. There was a lingering odor but nothing bothersome. I'm sensitive and can smell every little thing (no wall-to-wall carpets and few curtains it's that bad) and it didn't bother me.

Having adquate ventilation (which instructions indicate) and disposing of the applicators properly are musts with the Waterlox.

The pow room floor is nicer now than it was with the tung oil. Perhaps it's just the age of the wood or it didn't have a sufficient number of oil applications but it's great.

If/when my floors need to be redone, I'll probably go with the Waterlox at a time when windows can be open and fans left on for a few days. There's a subtle difference and I doubt anyone else would know/notice and it's strictly a matter of taste. I wouldn't hesitate to use it on cabinets (though not on countertops).

Meanwhile, velodoug's point about wax ia a good one. I found the Briwax scary stinky BTW. But there's a German product called Sofix, which is a liquid wax (smells wonderful) made for oiled hardwood floors. It goes on full strength and then you clean with it diluted with water. Spills bead up on it. I put it over the tung oil on the ash floors and it's held in the moisture very well for 3 years now. I was told my floors would need reoiling within 2 to 3 years but they're fine.


Sofix liquid wax for oiled floors
clipped on: 06.04.2007 at 01:59 am    last updated on: 06.04.2007 at 02:00 am

sheet metal break DIY countertop (Follow-Up #40)

posted by: ginnytrcka on 01.17.2007 at 01:15 pm in Metalworking Forum

One more thing--here is a link to make your own sheet metal break (video) for bending edges. May be useful for someone attempting this.

Here is a link that might be useful: 2x4 sheet metal break


clipped on: 04.08.2007 at 04:05 am    last updated on: 04.08.2007 at 04:05 am

RE: DIY copper countertop (Follow-Up #50)

posted by: aliceinwonderland_id on 03.06.2007 at 09:55 am in Metalworking Forum

I've received a few requests, so here are step-by-step instructions for what I did. If you can fold the copper over the edges, I would suggest doing so. I didn't, but only because my countertop was too wide so I had to come up with another method.

1. After the cabinets were installed I built the countertop out of plywood. The first layer was floor-grade 3/4" plywood, screwed down every six inches on the edges and every 8 - 12 inches in the middle, along the cabinet edges. I used decking screws just barely countersunk.

2. Second layer was 1/2" AC plywood, screwed into the first layer every 4-6 inches on the edges and 8-10 inches in the middle. Decking screws, slightly countersunk.

3. Leveling compound (cement based) was used to cover all screw heads and fill in any bad areas on the plywood and along all edges to make them as smooth as possible.

4. After the leveling compound dried thoroughly (24 hours) I sanded is smooth with 100 grit sandpaper and and orbital sander.

5. I measured and marked the locations for the sink and the cooktop and cut them out with a jig saw, then dry-fit both items to make sure they would fit properly.

6. I had a 4' x 10' sheet of 18 oz copper because my countertop was 45" wide in most places and 48" wide at the cooktop. I used solvent-based contact cement (water-based doesn't work on copper). With a small roller, I painted a coat on the copper and two coats on the plywood (top only).

7. Once the contact cement was dry, I cut a whole bunch of thin slats and placed them every 2 - 4 inches on top of the plywood. I found out quickly that dowels would have worked better - round dowels have less surface area to stick than flat slats, but it was still okay. Make sure the dowels or slats are long enough to stick out 6 inches or more on each side of the countertop.

8. I laid the copper sheet on top of the slats and maneuvered it into position. I had to make sure it was exactly right because I had about 1/2 centimeter of overhang in one spot so it had to be perfect.

9. Starting in the middle, I pulled out a few slats and pressed the copper into place with a J-roller, working my way out to each end. Then I crawled up on the countertop and rolled over the whole thing with the J-roller to ensure it was stuck down completely with no bubbles.

10. I let it sit for 24 hours to allow the contact cement to cure.

11. Now I had all this copper overhang to deal with. I ended up using a router with an edging bit to cut off the copper. This worked really well - copper is so soft it's about like working with wood. One CAUTION: This was a huge mess. I had to cover every surface in the kitchen to do this because little copper curlyques flew everywhere. I still find some now and then and it's been 8 months since I did this.

12. For the edges, I bought 1.5" X 1/8" copper bar. I mitered the ends, just like you would with wood and dry fit all the pieces to make sure they would fit properly. I tried gluing them with contact cement, but just couldn't manage to get a good bond. I hadn't make my edges quite smooth enough. So, I ended up using tite-grip construction adhesive. It worked really well.

13. Now I had a few gaps here and there, particularly in the corners where the copper bar came together and some at the junction of the copper bar and the copper sheet. I used a product called "just for copper." This is a small tube of copper epoxy that has copper dust mixed with it. When it dries, it has the look of aged copper, and is strong enough to repair copper pipe. I smooshed (nice technical term there) the epoxy into all of the gaps and let it cure. This stuff is a little on the stiff side and not super easy to work with. You can't get it perfectly flat and smooth. I let it cure 24 hours.

14. I sanded the epoxy, starting with 80 grit sandpaper to flatten and smooth it. I also sanded my corners to round them out a bit. The sanding took forever. I went down to 300 grit sandpaper and then sanded the entire countertop surface with this grit. This took a little of the shine off the countertop and allowed it to age more quickly.

Of all the steps, ensuring the wood base is flat and SMOOTH, SMOOTH, SMOOTH is the most important. That will determine directly how much work will have to be done with the copper epoxy to make it all work and look nice.


clipped on: 04.08.2007 at 03:57 am    last updated on: 04.08.2007 at 03:59 am

RE: source for Herbes de Provence? (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: adoptedbygreyhounds on 01.18.2007 at 12:10 pm in Cooking Forum

I made up some Herbes de Provence to give as Christmas gifts. I also had a jar of HdP from Penzey's and mine had a much nicer fragrance than the one from Penzey's! I think in part because I added some dried orange zest. Most of the individual herbes did come from Penzey's. My plumber was here when I was stirring all the herbs together, and he asked if I was having a low contry boil. The entire kitchen smelled wonderful! Here's my recipe. It is sort of an amalgam of 5 or 6 on-line recipes. Most of the recipes I found were about half thyme but varied a lot in the other ingredients. The thyme and tarragon were both French, but the basil was from California, rosemary from Spain, oregano from turkey, etc.

Herbes de Provence
4 parts of thyme
2 parts each of bay leaves, rosemary, savory, cloves, orange zest, chives, tarragon, parsley, oregano, and basil
1 part each of sage, majoram, mint, and fennel seed
pinch lavender


clipped on: 01.20.2007 at 01:23 am    last updated on: 01.20.2007 at 01:23 am

RE: I've got Meyer Lemons from Jayne (Follow-Up #13)

posted by: woodie2 on 01.18.2007 at 06:09 pm in Cooking Forum

I just bought a package of Meyer Lemons like yours today at Trader Joe's - first time I'll be trying them. But, I'll use them in a slightly different way -

Meyer Lemon Martini
Recipe courtesy Scott Leibfried
Show: Party Starters
Episode: Retro Martini Party/Italian Trattoria

4 ounces vodka
2 ounces Meyer lemon juice
1/2 cup fine sugar on a small plate to sugar the rim of the glass
2 Meyer lemon slices

In a martini shaker combine all ingredients except the lemon slices and sugar with a generous amount of ice. Shake vigorously for a few seconds. Rub the rim of the glass with a lemon slice and dredge in the sugar. Strain the libation from the ice into a martini glass. Garnish with the lemon slices.


clipped on: 01.20.2007 at 01:03 am    last updated on: 01.20.2007 at 01:03 am

Lemons? (Follow-Up #11)

posted by: annie1992 on 01.18.2007 at 05:27 pm in Cooking Forum

Clare, now I am seriously envious, I'd take a box of those lemons in a heartbeat! Here's the recipe I used, and it went quickly and easily.

Here's the recipe, originally from Bon Appetit:


1 1/4 pounds Meyer lemons
5 cups water
5 1/2 cups (about) sugar
1 vanilla bean, split lengthwise
Pinch of salt

Working on large plate to catch juice, cut lemons in half lengthwise, then very thinly crosswise. Discard seeds. Pack enough lemons and any juice to measure 2 1/2 cups. Transfer to large nonreactive pot. Add 5 cups water; bring to boil. Reduce heat to medium; simmer 10 minutes. Remove from heat; let stand uncovered overnight.

Measure lemon mixture (there should be about 5 1/2 cups). Return to same pot. Add equal amount of sugar (about 5 1/2 cups). Scrape in seeds from vanilla bean; add bean. Add pinch of salt. Bring to boil, stirring until sugar dissolves. Attach clip-on candy thermometer. Maintaining active boil and adjusting heat to prevent boiling over, cook until temperature reaches 230F, stirring occasionally, about 30 minutes. Cool to room temperature. Transfer to jars. Cover and chill. (Can be made 2 weeks ahead. Keep refrigerated. Bring to room temperature before serving.)

Makes about 4 1/2 cups.

Bon Apptit
February 2005

When I let the lemons sit over night and then measured, I had 4 cups, not nearly 5 1/2, so I added 4 cups of sugar (sugar equal to fruit). I scraped out the vanilla beans and then tossed the pod in for good measure. I fished the pod out before jarring up the marmalade.

It's yummy, kind of sweet. The vanilla adds a different dimension of sweetness, not distinctly vanilla but still sweeter than the recipe without the vanilla bean. Here's the recipe from gourmet magazine without the vanilla bean:


Active time: 1 1/4 hr Start to finish: 25 1/4 hr

6 Meyer lemons (1 1/2 lb)
4 cups water
4 cups sugar
Special equipment:
Kitchen string
6 (1/2-pint) Mason-type jars, sterilized

Halve lemons crosswise and remove seeds. Tie seeds in a cheesecloth bag. Quarter each lemon half and thinly slice. Combine with bag of seeds and water in a 5-quart nonreactive heavy pot and let mixture stand, covered, at room temperature 24 hours.

Bring lemon mixture to a boil over moderate heat. Reduce heat and simmer, uncovered, until reduced to 4 cups, about 45 minutes. Stir in sugar and boil over moderate heat, stirring occasionally and skimming off any foam, until a teaspoon of mixture dropped on a cold plate gels, about 15 minutes.

Ladle hot marmalade into jars, filling to within inch of top. Wipe rims with dampened cloth and seal jars with lids.

Put jars in a water-bath canner or on a rack set in a deep pot. Add enough hot water to cover jars by 1 inch and bring to a boil. Boil jars, covered, 5 minutes and transfer with tongs to a rack. Cool jars completely.

Cooks' note:
Marmalade keeps, stored in a cool, dark place, up to 1 year.

Makes 6 (1/2-pint) jars

December 1999



clipped on: 01.20.2007 at 12:59 am    last updated on: 01.20.2007 at 01:01 am