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RE: What is the best composite? (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: deckman22 on 10.04.2007 at 07:20 pm in Porches & Decks Forum

I've worked with most all the major brands of composites other than ProCell. I've found Ameradeck to be the best hands down. It has many qualities the others don't. Here's why I think it's best.

1. does not scratch easily
2. class A fire rating the same as ipe or steel
3. easy to work with, it's a little lighter in weight than most, does not mushroom when you screw it down without pilot holes.
4. does not absorb stains like the softer composites, cleans up with a water hose if you spill something on it.
5. spans farther, they claim it works with 24" centers tho I use 20" centers on homes & 16" on commercial jobs.
6. slip resistant even when wet
7. looks good
8. not as expensive as the other high end composites, same price as fiberon, weatherbest & premier here in austin
9. does not get mold/mildew issues like those with exposed wood particles do
10. great customer service

I met the owner of the company last month & he told me about all the testing they do to find ways to improve their all ready great product. The factory rep that serves this area is also top notch. I like a company that stands behind their product & takes care of any issues that come up instead of making excuses or splitting hairs to get out of warranties.

Al

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clipped on: 04.25.2011 at 07:43 pm    last updated on: 04.25.2011 at 07:44 pm

need duvet cover ideas

posted by: bungalow_house on 10.31.2010 at 10:15 pm in Home Decorating Forum

I have purchased a duvet for this bed, and I'm not finding an affordable cover that I like. Would it look weird to get an inexpensive solid color duvet cover that would be folded at the end of the bed (well...on days the bed is made...) and leave this quilt as the patterned element? Could use some shams too.

Or if someone has other suggestions, I'm all ears. The walls are Benjamin Moore October Mist.

Sorry for the bad lighting in this photo. It's hard to take a photo of this room with the camera pointed right at the windows. Someday I need to learn how to use my camera in a mode other than "automatic". :)

Emailing: IMG_9466-1.JPG

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clipped on: 11.02.2010 at 11:23 pm    last updated on: 11.02.2010 at 11:23 pm

RE: OT-but there is no mudroom forum.. Please show pics. of mudro (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: pps7 on 10.21.2010 at 01:54 pm in Kitchens Forum

Milz50, I love your whole house!

Our mudroom is riduculously large, but I've seen many really nice functional ones that are much smaller. We use every square inch of it daily. Sorry for the mess :)

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clipped on: 10.24.2010 at 02:26 am    last updated on: 10.24.2010 at 02:26 am

RE: It's September- How is your build progressing? (Follow-Up #35)

posted by: crescent50 on 09.04.2010 at 10:54 am in Building a Home Forum

Thanks for the nice words. My kids are pretty lucky & love showing off their rooms to everyone. The little one fancies herself as a princess & you can usually find her sitting inside of her built in castle-lol
Stan- the beadboard is 62" high including the deep trophy shelf. My inspiration picture was actually a dining room & I think it looks great.
The paint color in the master bath is BM 1587- Gibraltar Cliffs. The tiles are Lea Ceramic Tarquinia Grigio & the glass is Mirage Opulance # OP23.
Hope that helps & continued good luck to all!
Keep the pictures coming...

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clipped on: 09.22.2010 at 09:51 pm    last updated on: 09.22.2010 at 09:51 pm

finished new construction -- kitchen, greatroom, mudroom pics hea

posted by: shelly_k on 09.08.2010 at 03:01 pm in Kitchens Forum

Hi All! We moved into our new construction home 7 weeks ago and we're getting settled gradually! Just wanted to say thanks to many of you for you help on my kitchen! Love it! Special thanks to Beuhl and Rhome-- great advice!!

We have much to do yet as far as furnishing and decor but I'm just happy to be out of most of our boxes! :) These pics are by no means, "staged" -- we live here! But just wanted to share a few..

This is a ranch style home -- 3 bedrooms on main and finished lower level with two more bedrooms and kitchenette. South Dakota suburb type lot (3/4 acre) on a golf course. We're a family of 4 -- 2 kids ages 5 and 3.

Lamp, waiting for a foyer table! :)

Mudroom Walk In Closet:

Mudroom:

Mudroom Cubbies:

Laundry:

Covered Concrete Deck:

Backyard:

Pocket Office off kitchen:

Pantry:

Basement Kitchenette:

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clipped on: 09.21.2010 at 12:15 am    last updated on: 09.21.2010 at 12:16 am

RE: Need Help & Advice Selecting & Sizing Bath Fan (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: mongoct on 08.31.2008 at 12:31 pm in Bathrooms Forum

Susan,

It's not that a remote fan has to be sized larger than a normal fan. It's that a fan just needs to be properly sized.

Period.

And if you have to choose between slightly smaller and slightly larger, I'd recommend larger.

Small baths are typically sized by the volume of the room. Larger baths can also be sized by the fixtures within that room.

Smaller baths can still effectively vent with a single vent. Larger baths can be more effectively vented with more than one vent.

You'll find many people look at the volume of the room (say 150 ft) and then specify a 150 cfm fan to give you one air change per hour. However, that fan, while rated at 150cfm, won't move 150 cfm of air due to the resistance of the ducting, the number or bends in the duct, etc.

Solid 4" metal duct offers less resistance to air movement than the ribbed flex duct. More bends offer more resistance than straight ducting. These inefficiencies mean that your 150cfm fan is now, in reality, only moving 120cfm, or 100 cfm, or 90cfm.

To make up for that added resistance, the fan needs to be upsized. Some of the better manufacturers have always considered basic duct resistance in their calculations.

With the Fantech, it's rated at 230 cfm. However, Fantech realizes that the basic static resistance due to basic run of ducting is .4 pull, so the effective volume of air that the fan can move is actually about 195-200 cfm. Add a couple of more bends, or extra feet of straight run, or ribbed flex versus the smother solid wall duct, and you can get up to .6, then you're only getting about 170 cfm of real air movement.

Nutone? If I needed a fan for a powder room, I might be persuaded. But for good quiet ventilation, Panny's are good, they're quiet too. For larger volumes of air and with only using a single fan, Fantech remotes are better, and quieter.

Do realize that it's sometimes tough to spend extra money on ventilation. Until you realize that your existing fan can be so loud that you prefer to not use it. Then you can end up with air problems, excess moisture, mildew, etc. And the expense of replacing a fan is tough to swallow.

The Fantech 230-3 is about $180-200, that's for the fan and the two vent asemblies.

For remote fans, Panasonic does have the FV-20NLF1, it's comparable to the Fantech 230 in regards to how much air it moves. It's a 240cfm with no load, which means it should be around 200cfm at .4, and cost wise it's probably around $130-$150 for the fan, then you'd need the two grids to go in your ceiling. Total cost for the fan and two grids might be slightly more expensive than the Fantech, which includes everything. But I do have to say that when it comes to large fans, I'm more familiar with Fantech than Panny.

Conclusion? Either the Fantch 230-2 or the Panny 20NLF1 will, even when "derated", move enough air to vent your bathroom using two ceiling vents. Both are remote, so they will both be quiet if properly installed.

If you decide to go with two individual, fully contained ceiling vents, each with their own fan, then make sure they are properly sized for the mount of ducting they will have to push the air through. Size the one in the shower for the size of the shower. Size the one in the bath for the size of the bath.

I've never had to replace a Fantech for being noisy. I've replaced a couple of Panny's for noise, but never a "whisper" series, although I did have to redo the ducting of a Panny whisper because the installer had a coupe of bends that mad too much air noise. After I tweaked things it ran quieter. I've replaced several Nutones due to noise.

All my opinion. Your mileage may vary.

Mongo

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clipped on: 09.05.2008 at 08:21 pm    last updated on: 09.05.2008 at 08:21 pm

RE: Contractor doesn't use vapor barrier behind tiles in tub (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: bill_vincent on 08.11.2008 at 06:33 pm in Bathrooms Forum

Not IRC-- TCNA (Tile Council of North America). If he checks Method B412 (method for constructing bath walls where a showerhead is located), it specifically states:

membrane behind backer unit[backerboard]to lap over face of flange of tub unit or prefabricated shower receptor

These specs are all ANSI Based (American National Standards and Specifications Institute-- which is where ALL building specs are found here in the U.S.).

Matter of fact, the definition of "membrane" can be found in ANSI 108.2, section 3.8:

3.8 Membrane or cleavage membrane
Membrane material shall be one of the following:

3.8.1 Roofing felt: ASTM D226 (15 lb. asphalt saturated) or ASTM D227 (13 lb. coal-tar-saturated [which is next to impossible to find any more]).

3.8.2 Reinforced asphalt paper, duplex type: ASTM C171

3.8.3 Polyethlene Sheeting, atleast a nominal thickness of 4-mil (100 microns): ASTM C171

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clipped on: 08.31.2008 at 01:42 am    last updated on: 08.31.2008 at 01:42 am

RE: Contractor doesn't use vapor barrier behind tiles in tub (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: sweeby on 08.11.2008 at 11:07 am in Bathrooms Forum

Hi Jenna -

Your contractor has been doing it wrong for years -- many have...

Hardiebacker and Durock are more water-resistant than ordinary sheetrock, but they are certainly not waterproof. If you ever see a scrap of Durock that has been left outside in a wet environment for a few weeks, you'll see what I mean.

In a finished shower, moisture will go through the grout lines very easily, and even through the tile faces themselves to some extent. That moisture will seep into the Durock where it sits until it evaporates (slowly) or continues on to the wooden studs behind, causing them to rot. A moisture membrane behind the Durock helps slow this process down A LOT, preserving the life of the wooden framing studs behind.

What's even better is a relatively new product called 'Kerdi' that's applied on top of the Durock. Do some reading on this board, and have your contractor do some research on Kerdi, and the benefits will become apparent very quickly. The over-simplified version is that Kerdi is a moisture membrane that goes between the tile and the Durock. The Kerdi layer prevents the moisture from ever reaching the Durock, dramatically lengthening the life of your installation.

Of course, for leaks that occur at the valve, none of these precautions will help much... There are moisture alarms you can buy that will notify you if there's a leak, and leaving an access panel behind the valve will be invaluable then.

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clipped on: 08.31.2008 at 01:39 am    last updated on: 08.31.2008 at 01:39 am

RE: Bill V, Mongo - HELP! Tiling around outside corners? (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: bill_vincent on 08.29.2008 at 08:00 am in Bathrooms Forum

I'd still love to see photos of the vinyl strips, if you or anyone else has any! What company makes these? Maybe they have photos on their web site?

Schluter (same company as Kerdi and Ditra) makes them. I don't have pics of the plastic strips, but I DO have pictures of the metal ones. Only difference is the material:

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Now, int the pictures, it's used to trim the edge, but the same strips are also used to bullnose outside corners.

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clipped on: 08.31.2008 at 12:54 am    last updated on: 08.31.2008 at 12:54 am

RE: It's August, how is your build coming along? (Follow-Up #58)

posted by: persnicketydesign on 08.15.2008 at 03:14 pm in Building a Home Forum

Thank you so much, Jodie! They actually look soooo much better in person than they do in the pictures. :o) We got them online from Hurst Hardwoods. They don't list the #1 common on their website, but if you call and ask for Eric he can get it for you. If you're OBing he'll give you a contractor's discount and an additional discount if you need over 1,000 SF. We ended up getting it for $2.80 PSF. He also gave us an awesome deal on shipping and stair treads. Our flooring guy said it was really good quality and we hardly had any waste at all.

I'd use them again in a heartbeat!

Here is a link that might be useful: Hurst Hardwoods

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clipped on: 08.31.2008 at 12:10 am    last updated on: 08.31.2008 at 12:10 am

RE: Flooring in laundry - Opinions please! (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: jaymielo on 08.30.2008 at 12:44 am in Building a Home Forum

In agreement with everyone else that a ceramic will probably be fine, given you choose well. We went with a "rustic" tile with an uneven edge and a dark grout. There is enough variegation in the color of the tile that dirt doesn't seem to be a problem.

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The grout looks pretty light here with the flash, but it is actually a medium to dark grey and picks up the lighter "overwash" color from the tile. These pictures were taken during construction and show the tile at it's worst. There is actually drywall "smudges" on the tile and it still doesn't look all that bad. I'd say it adds "character". ;-)

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clipped on: 08.30.2008 at 11:28 pm    last updated on: 08.30.2008 at 11:28 pm

Here is the green foyer

posted by: brutuses on 05.17.2008 at 04:03 pm in Home Decorating Forum

Here are some photo's of my green foyer and the fabric that inspired me to paint it these colors:

Ceiling BM Grecian Green
Walls BM Tree Moss

foyer

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foyer

foyer inspiration

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clipped on: 07.28.2008 at 03:43 pm    last updated on: 07.28.2008 at 03:43 pm

RE: Timber tech XLM (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: builtbymac on 04.09.2008 at 02:06 am in Porches & Decks Forum

Here's a couple...

XLM Sandridge w/ Black Radiance Rail



and a small access deck made with XLM Cedar and Black Radiance Rail



Hope this helps - it's a nice product built by a solid company.

Water puddles on it because it's an impervious surface...water doesn't seep into the boards. When the sun hits it, the water evaporates fairly quickly (although that's an entirely subjective time).

Mac

Here is a link that might be useful: Built By MAC website

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clipped on: 07.07.2008 at 07:30 pm    last updated on: 07.07.2008 at 07:30 pm

RE: Lumber Liquidators? (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: sweeby on 06.09.2008 at 12:00 pm in Building a Home Forum

We just put down about 1,000 SF of hardwoods and went to our local LL store first. They had lots of woods to choose from, but IMO, the less expensive woods were not terribly appealing -- very thin, very short, lots of color variation. I kept going back to their web site, to their brochures, and to the store trying to make something work -- but all of their lowest prices were actually for manufacturer's seconds. Look for the asterisks and small print.

After days of research, I ended up ordering from Hosking Hardwoods online, and was very, very pleased with the quality of the wood, the service, and the price. IMO, a much better product and value than LL.

Here's a link to the Flooring Forum and a long discussion on the merits of buying online, including a detailed post of my experiences...

Here is a link that might be useful: Buying Online thread

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clipped on: 06.29.2008 at 10:36 am    last updated on: 06.29.2008 at 10:36 am

Bathroom Tile Sites

posted by: piasano on 06.15.2008 at 08:09 pm in Building a Home Forum

www.tileandmarble.com

www.duvaltileandstone.com

www.anchorbaytile.com

For those of us wondering how to pattern the tiles in our showers and bathrooms.

Many, many pictures.

Barbara

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clipped on: 06.29.2008 at 10:19 am    last updated on: 06.29.2008 at 10:19 am

Can I show my house off!!!

posted by: ericstac on 06.11.2008 at 02:01 pm in Building a Home Forum

I just got back from seeing the final on my stained floors and thought I would share some photos:

please comment..

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clipped on: 06.29.2008 at 10:13 am    last updated on: 06.29.2008 at 10:13 am

washer and dryer (Follow-Up #12)

posted by: marthaelena on 06.20.2008 at 10:42 am in Building a Home Forum

Happy to help! make someone happy today!
The dim of the washer/dryer that we use are shown on the drawing.
I actually had the shower as you want and then I moved it because I thought you'd have more room when you entered the laundry since the shower was supposed to be 3'.
If you want to have a bigger mud room bench you can use a pocket door. I draw the wall for the pocket with 2x6 studs for a sturdier wall.
Are you using a shower base (you have a lot of sizes to chose from) and then tile the surround or use nudo board or some cultured marble or acrylic to protect walls?
If your pets are small you could use a Mop Sink. Most of them are 24"x24" and they come with a hose, you can also plug them to fill it up, they are deep enough and I think you can get and standard protection for the walls.

Good luck!
Image and video hosting by TinyPic

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clipped on: 06.29.2008 at 09:14 am    last updated on: 06.29.2008 at 09:15 am

MudRoom (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: marthaelena on 06.19.2008 at 12:32 pm in Building a Home Forum

Hope you like it

Image and video hosting by TinyPic

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clipped on: 06.29.2008 at 09:14 am    last updated on: 06.29.2008 at 09:14 am

RE: Basic bathroom planning - measurements? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: lazypup on 03.08.2008 at 09:55 pm in Bathrooms Forum

The clearances for a bathtub are determined by the physical size of the tub you select.

Under the International Residential Code (IRC) a shower stall is required to have a minimum rough pan size of 32" x 32" and under the UPC it is required to be 34" x 34"

A shower is required to have a 30" diameter area in the shower stall with vertical clearance of 72" above the elevation of the finished drain. (The shower control knobs or an handrail may project into the 30" clearance.

When constructing a shower the shower head MAY NOT point towards the door.

When constructing a corner shower with an angled door on the front corner, the UPC requires the pan to be 39-1/2" on each wall and the door must have a minimum 22" width.

Under both the IRC and UPC a toilet or bidet is required to have a side to side clearance of 15" from the centerline of the bowl to any wall, fixture or appurtenance on either side.

The IRC requires a toilet to have a frontal clearance of 21" from the front edge of the bowl to any adjacent wall, fixture or appurtenance. The UPC requires a 24" frontal clearance.

The IRC requires a lavatory to have a 21" frontal clearance measured from the front edge of freestanding bowl or from the front edge of that lavatory cabinet. The UPC has no specific clearance for a lavatory bowl, however you must check your local codes.

Door swing clearances would be dictated by the size of the door. Most code require an interior door to be a minimum of 30" wide.

This should give you the basics based upon the national model codes but before you finalize your plan be sure to check with your local inspection authority to see if your local codes may be different.

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clipped on: 05.04.2008 at 08:11 am    last updated on: 05.04.2008 at 08:11 am

RE: Care to share pictures of your house with darker siding? (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: rhome410 on 05.03.2008 at 09:34 pm in Building a Home Forum

This probably doesn't help, as we did all our trim light, and it sounds like you want a more colorful trim color...

porch Sep15

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clipped on: 05.04.2008 at 04:22 am    last updated on: 05.04.2008 at 04:22 am

RE: Shiloh Cabinets--Initial Impressions/Review (Follow-Up #12)

posted by: teched on 05.03.2008 at 04:52 pm in Kitchens Forum

rnmomx2--

Our initial Shiloh quote was like $29,500. We made the following changes:
-Changed to Oxford door style from a Shaker style (that looks like what edlakin has)
-Changed from a 5-piece drawer head to a slab. Shilo offers an edge treatment on slab drawers (free) that made them look like expensive furniture.
-Changed from full overlay to partial overlay (our full over lay bath cabinets have so many fillers they look like partial anyway, the partial overlay required no fillers--another cost savings).
-Dropped the crown molding ($23 a linear foot) and purchased it locally ($4 a linear foot plus paint)
-Dropped the appliance garage ($650), which is good because it would not have fit well anyway.
-Dropped the refrigerator panels ($1500 but we may order later.
-Added ivory paint (20% upcharge)

Our final cost was $17,000. I will try to post pics tonight when I locate the camera. The drawers are the best--I think in our compact setup, the 5-piece heads would have looked awful. The slabs are lovely and simple without being too modern.

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clipped on: 05.03.2008 at 08:07 pm    last updated on: 05.03.2008 at 08:07 pm

What are your favorite sites to purchase kitchen stuff?

posted by: mygar on 04.09.2008 at 09:25 pm in Kitchens Forum

I love to see the posts where people list various sites that they like to browse or have purchased from with good results. I was hoping everybody would list them here so they would all be together.

I'll start:

faucetdepot.com
efaucets.com
galaxytoolsupply.com

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clipped on: 05.03.2008 at 04:13 pm    last updated on: 05.03.2008 at 04:13 pm

RE: Holligator-More pics of your kitchen, please? (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: holligator on 05.02.2008 at 11:18 pm in Kitchens Forum

edlakin, the ceiling is 6" wide tongue and groove pine.

bethesdamom2008, the room is 24'10" x 14'9" (you can't see the dining area in those pics, but the layout is below). The clearances around the island are as follows: ~48" on the seating side, ~45" on the refrigerator side (to the counter, less to the fridge), and ~43" on the stove side. If I had it to do over, I'd move the island about 3-4" closer to the stove. The clearance in front of the fridge is about perfect.

susan205, my island is 7.5' x 3.5' and my pendant shades are 8" across. Three has turned out to be the perfect number of pendants for us.

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clipped on: 05.03.2008 at 04:09 pm    last updated on: 05.03.2008 at 04:09 pm

Interesting...Have you noticed that threads...

posted by: buehl on 05.02.2008 at 09:52 am in Kitchens Forum

Have you noticed that threads that have dropped off are now often still available if you've bookmarked them?

As I was going through my bookmarks, I noticed that several I had bookmarked have dropped off...yet I can still bring them up. I have not received a single "Missing File" message today and I've looked at at least a dozen threads that should be "missing"

E.g., "tray cabinets - top 1/2 wasted space"

Last post 2/17/08

Do a search...it doesn't come up
The posts falling off today are mid-March

Yet, it still comes up when I click on my bookmark!


Or how about "Care to share your best kitchen storage ideas?" I tried bumping this one but it doesn't appear in the list; although the bump does appear when I bring it up directly.

So, it looks like in many cases while you can no longer search for an old thread, find it in the thread list, or successfully bump it, you may still be able to see them!

All the threads I've looked at dropped off in 2008--so I wonder if that has something to do with it (i.e., only threads from this year are still available if you know the URL???)


Just in case others can also see...here are some w/links. Hopefully, they will still be available to others as well!

Care to share your best kitchen storage ideas?
tray cabinets - top 1/2 wasted space
What do you wish you had done differently?
Rev-A-Shelf Spice Racks for Fillers -- Have you seen these!!!


So....can the rest of you still see these threads?

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clipped on: 05.03.2008 at 09:52 am    last updated on: 05.03.2008 at 09:54 am

RE: Kabinart cabinets from MKFUSA are here! (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: sandsonik on 04.26.2008 at 01:48 pm in Kitchens Forum

remodelfla, they have the Starmark prices on their website. It's 70% off if you spend over $3500: link to the Starmark section of the site down below - click on price list for specific prices, and remember that those are the full prices and you get 70% off of that listed price. However, there's also a 3% increase for 2008, so count that in. They give instructions on how to calculate everything.

I've been really intrigued by the company as well and looking at the Starmark catalog, and couldn't wait to hear how some of the people ordering from them made out, so I'm anxiously awaiting more pictures Beth! Are you installing them yourself? My husband and I aren't that handy and with a house badly out of square, I'd really like someone else to install them if I go this route - and I wonder how hard it is to find a workman to install cabinets you ordered independently online!

Here is a link that might be useful: Starmark portion of meramec site

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clipped on: 05.03.2008 at 09:31 am    last updated on: 05.03.2008 at 09:32 am

4'' Broom Closet from Ikeafans

posted by: buehl on 02.11.2008 at 12:26 pm in Kitchens Forum

Ikeafans has 2 threads about how to build a 4" broom closet. (Thanks for reminding us about it Napagirl!)

We may have a 6" tall filler (90") b/w our ovens and cabinets to the right. From the Ikeafans website it looks like StacyLu (with a box prebuilt) and Jgsearls (w/o a prebuilt box) had theirs retrofitted...after everything else was done. Since our contractor has not been very receptive to new and different ideas, we're thinking of doing this ourselves...but it would have to be after the fact.

Has anyone on this site done this? Does anyone know if we can just attach the filler strip to a 2x4 or 2x6...or do we have to have a finished plywood piece (or, is that what filler is???)?

Two threads about this, both on Ikeafans:

4" Broom Closet Modification (Stacylu)

Pullout Broom Closet Modification (Jgsearls)

Note: I think you have to be logged into Ikeafans to see the pictures.

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clipped on: 04.24.2008 at 07:19 pm    last updated on: 04.24.2008 at 07:19 pm

My pulls are in! Thought I'd share a great hardware website!

posted by: dd70 on 03.04.2008 at 01:13 pm in Kitchens Forum

After a long quest looking for reasonably priced yet quality cabinet knobs/pulls, I concluded to just get the one's that I love, Tuscany by Top Knobs. So all total it would have cost close to $450 for the amount I needed, 34. Not to mention I wanted them in antique copper which of course is more expensive (always my luck). So I quickly concluded to keep searching for less expensive in that style and I found this website who had my tuscany knobs (not made by top knobs) for way less than half the price. I was leary so I emailed them regarding the weight of them (i hate lite, cheap feeling pulls) and they told me:
"These items are made from zinc. We believe these are solid. We can request this information from the manufacturing warehouse to be certain if you would
like. This may take a few days. We have not had any complaints regarding the weight or feel of these pieces."

All right, I took a chance and placed the order.....praying they were nice. My total for 44 knobs/pulls/bail pulls came to $160, (I ordered 10 extra) shipping was a little high at $43 but it was still a huge savings.

I got them today, Im so excited!! I ripped open the box, still praying, and they are beautiful!! They have a nice weight and feel to them and they are exactly what I wanted.
I wanted to share the site everyone. Im sure like me, most of you have gone over budget or need to stick to a tight budget or have a limitless budget and just love a good deal! I'm really thrilled with the quality and most definitely the price. Hope you all enjoy, happy shopping! Im now off on my quest for counter height bar stools.....; )

Here is a link that might be useful: knobs and pulls

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clipped on: 03.07.2008 at 07:44 pm    last updated on: 03.07.2008 at 07:44 pm

RE: KM mandolay cherry cabs in cabernet or autumn blush? (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: lnersesian on 03.07.2008 at 12:57 pm in Kitchens Forum

We have them in Maple Chestnut. I had initially really wanted the cabernet finish, but our cabinet rep told us that KM had issues with consistency with the stain (since it was so dark there was evidence of splotching or something). This is going back a couple of years, but at the time, it swayed me to the chestnut and we are very happy with the results.

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clipped on: 03.07.2008 at 07:37 pm    last updated on: 03.07.2008 at 07:37 pm

Now that I have [X], I think I could have lived without it.

posted by: cate1337 on 07.15.2007 at 07:43 pm in Kitchens Forum

Hi, all.

I want to know what all of you would fill in for [X] in the statement, "Now that I have [X], I think I could have lived without it."

For background:

I just read the great thread "Fill in - Now that I have [X], I would never go back to [Y]." (Thanks for starting that, Shannonplus2. It was very helpful as I wrap up my new layout.)

Shannon introduced the thread by referring to "biggest waste of money in your kitchen" or "best low-cost idea" threads. Well, I did a search for those threads and didn't find them. (Please let me know if I missed them, know I'm a noob, did search from the bottom searchbox but didn't feel like scrolling through the 40-some pages that came up.)

And I just decided to move my cooktop in the new kitchen to an island, so I'll need an island vent, so I'll need to cut corners somewhere. $1600 or more corners. *gasp*

So would any of you say, perhaps:

Now that I have the new engineered quartz counters, I think I could have lived with formica for a few years....

Now that I have a new refrigerator, I think I could have lived with the old one for a while...

Now that I have a double oven and a microwave, I never use all of them at once...

Now that I have a single-bowl, 10" deep sink, I think I could've lived with a 7"?

I.e., what would you cut from your kitchen design?

Thank you in advice for the answers and honesty,

Cate

Here is a link that might be useful: Never go back thread

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clipped on: 02.18.2008 at 09:30 pm    last updated on: 02.18.2008 at 09:30 pm

Read Me If You're New To GW Kitchens! (Help keep on Page 1)

posted by: buehl on 02.05.2008 at 12:13 pm in Kitchens Forum

Welcome - If you are new here - you may find the following information and links helpful.

The Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ) pages contain helpful information about how to navigate this site as well as the world of kitchen renovations.

The Kitchen Forum Acronyms will help you understand some of the acronyms used frequently in posts.

The Finished Kitchens Blog has pictures and information about many GW members' finished kitchens. Not only can you see them alphabetically, but there is also a category list if you're looking for specific things like a kitchen w/a Beverage Center or a kitchen w/a mix of dark and light cabinets.

The Appliances Forum is very useful when you have questions specific to appliances.

To start off the process...take the Sweeby Test. Then, move on to Beginning a Kitchen Plan.

Other topics such as planning for storage can be found by doing a search on the forum.

Tip: When using the "search" function, be sure to use the search box on the bottom of the page, not the top!

Again, welcome and good luck! The journey is wild, sometimes bumpy, but fun!

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clipped on: 02.18.2008 at 09:21 pm    last updated on: 02.18.2008 at 09:22 pm

Purchasing Plubming fixtures on-line?

posted by: msloane794 on 02.18.2008 at 10:28 am in Kitchens Forum

Has anyone had any good/bad experiences purchasing plumbing fixtures on-line? It seems that you can find great prices on name brand products if you google around a bit. There are literally hundreds of places on the web, and the prices I am seeing are hundreds of dollars less than the local suppliers. I'm just curious if some of these places are hard to work with, or don't deliver what they say they are delivering.

FYI, I am looking at buying a Blanco stainless steel kitchen sink, and Grohe fixtures. For what I am looking for lowcostplumbing.com and irawoods.com look like the best prices I've found so far.

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clipped on: 02.18.2008 at 09:20 pm    last updated on: 02.18.2008 at 09:20 pm

Just because... (colors I used in my new house)

posted by: mls0520 on 01.30.2008 at 11:00 pm in Home Decorating Forum

Hey everyone!

I have found this forum to be an invaluable source of ideas and information. Little by little, I've defined my own sense of style and decor in my home by reading this site. GW has become my "study break" when I need to let my brain have some fun.

One thing I've really enjoyed is looking at everyone's paint colors they've used in their home and so I thought I would share what I chose in our new home, just because!

Pittsfield Buff
New House Pics

BM Pittsfield Buff
New House Pics

SW Hopsack DS's Bedroom
New House Pics

SW Underseas Master Bedroom
New House Pics

SW Spun Sugar DD's Bedroom
SW Spun Sugar,  DD room

SW Rainwashed Laundry Room
New House Pics

BM Nantucket Gray Office
Photobucket

All of our ceilings are BM Mayonnaise, and all of the woodwork is going to be BM Simply White. Hope something here is useful/helpful to someone!

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clipped on: 01.31.2008 at 12:12 pm    last updated on: 01.31.2008 at 12:12 pm

RE: Small houses with style (Follow-Up #29)

posted by: skagit_goat_man_ on 09.17.2007 at 11:32 pm in Smaller Homes Forum

I'll add mine @ 1176sf. Tom
Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket
Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket
Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket

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clipped on: 01.24.2008 at 08:46 pm    last updated on: 01.24.2008 at 08:46 pm

GE Profile Induction OR DeDetriech unit...

posted by: mcassel on 01.04.2008 at 10:17 am in Appliances Forum

It seems as time has gone by and my house has taken longer to build that I thought (yes I was naive) there are now a lot more choices at reasonable prices for indiction cooktops... When I was looking 8 months ago in my budget I was limited to Kenmore/Electrolux and the DD units and with those two options the DD unit came out on top by a long way... But now it seems like there are some other very good options and leading the pack is the new GE Profile unit.

Which is the better performing unit of the two the GE and DD? Of course the GE is UL rated which is nice but not a must have for me and both aesthetically look very nice

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clipped on: 01.24.2008 at 07:56 pm    last updated on: 01.24.2008 at 07:56 pm

RE: Challenge: anyone w/ induction exp who'd go back to gas? (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: jxbrown on 01.02.2007 at 12:48 am in Appliances Forum

Not me. Induction is a huge improvement over gas for all the reasons garycook mentions and because it doesn't heat the kitchen as much. No burned hands from hot handles, either. Clean up is a spray of Windex and a wipe.

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clipped on: 01.24.2008 at 07:52 pm    last updated on: 01.24.2008 at 07:52 pm

Please Help--French Door Refrigerator Question

posted by: cathy21 on 07.18.2007 at 04:11 pm in Appliances Forum

Dear all,

I am about to purchase a stainless steel French Door refrigerator and am having a lot of trouble finding good online reviews of these products. From what I have read in this forum, LG has terrible customer service so I will avoid that brand. The brands I am considering are KitchenAid, GE, Whirlpool, and Maytag. I have read that some of the Maytags can be loud. Also, I am not looking for a model with the exterior ice and water dispenser.

I have looked for weeks so any advice would be greatly appreciated!!!

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clipped on: 01.24.2008 at 07:38 pm    last updated on: 01.24.2008 at 07:38 pm

Downdraft - which brand?

posted by: ccc123 on 01.20.2008 at 07:43 pm in Appliances Forum

We need to replace the downdraft ventilation in our island. Which brand of downdraft do you recommend?

We're installing a Miele electric glass cooktop, KM5676, & unfortunately Miele does not make downdrafts. (An overhead hood is not an option for our kitchen)

The downdraft ventilation brands we're considering are Dacor, Wolf, & Viking.

We're hoping to pick a downdraft brand with good customer service. Any thoughts?

Thanks for your advice!

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clipped on: 01.24.2008 at 07:32 pm    last updated on: 01.24.2008 at 07:32 pm

Electrical outlets, phone/cable(jacks)outlets.....

posted by: patty_cakes on 01.07.2008 at 04:25 am in Building a Home Forum

I'll have to be making that decision in the next couple of weeks. Is there anywhere you wish you would have installed a particuliar outlet and didn't? Or put one where it wasn't necessary at all? Did you plan the outlets around your furniture placement?

If you had an intercom system installed, do you use it? I had one when my 5 kids were small, and found I used it often, especially when I needed to call them down for dinner. I'm thinking of re-sale since i'll be living by myself, and it's a family sized house. Did anyone add the holiday package for outdoor Christmas lights? These are all things i've been 'contemplating', but not sure of.

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clipped on: 01.17.2008 at 09:44 pm    last updated on: 01.17.2008 at 09:44 pm

Fabrics (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: squirrelheaven on 10.27.2006 at 09:03 pm in Home Decorating Forum

Some nice fabric shops:

http://warehousefabricsinc.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=BYM&Category_Code=

http://www.fabricsandhome.com/fabrics.asp

http://www.fabricsandpapers.com/intro.htm (UK, exp)

http://discountdecorator.com/Common.asp?Hdr=srchres special order high-ends

http://www.fabrictothetrade.com/defaultproduct.asp

http://www.BeautifulHomeFabrics.com

http://www.DecoratingFabrics.com

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clipped on: 05.27.2007 at 10:44 am    last updated on: 05.27.2007 at 10:44 am