Clippings by Tricia21

 Sort by: Last Updated Post Date Post Title Forum Name 

RE: bumper pads on inside cabinet door corners (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: momtofour on 05.07.2013 at 10:28 am in Kitchens Forum

Maybe you need something like this instead. I installed them on my doors and they work great. I got them elsewhere though, for less. I can't remember where right now.

Here is a link that might be useful: Blumotion soft-door


clipped on: 05.12.2013 at 01:48 pm    last updated on: 05.12.2013 at 01:48 pm

RE: What did you almost forget? Buying everything else this week (Follow-Up #21)

posted by: Caliente63 on 05.07.2013 at 10:37 am in Kitchens Forum

> Kitchen rated fire extinguisher!

I just ordered myself one of those, after watching America's Test Kitchen do some tests that revealed a very clear winner. Link below...

Here is a link that might be useful: Kidde FX10K Kitchen Fire Extinguisher


clipped on: 05.07.2013 at 09:42 pm    last updated on: 05.07.2013 at 09:42 pm

RE: Show me your spice storage! (Follow-Up #52)

posted by: breezygirl on 04.06.2013 at 06:00 pm in Kitchens Forum

Purrus--The tins are from Specialty Bottle. They sell lots of other cool bottles and tins, too. Most of what's visible in my open drawer pic are the 4 oz tins. I have several 8 oz tins in the back for larger spices like bay leaves and star anise pods and for spices I use in large quantities like chili powder and cinnamon.

Here is a link that might be useful: Specialty bottle clear lid tins


clipped on: 05.06.2013 at 04:38 am    last updated on: 05.06.2013 at 04:38 am

RE: Hiding Microwave in base cabinet? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: clinresga on 02.18.2009 at 09:22 am in Appliances Forum

It's above the oven, not in a base cab, but we did exactly what you're describing and are very happy with it:

MW open

MW closed


clipped on: 04.29.2013 at 11:58 am    last updated on: 04.29.2013 at 11:58 am

Pulls are on

posted by: Whit461 on 04.07.2013 at 09:37 pm in Kitchens Forum

Thanks to all your advices, we did a lot this weekend including getting our Princetonian pulls installed. Need a few more, but we are SO HAPPY with how they turned out. What do you think?


clipped on: 04.08.2013 at 10:39 pm    last updated on: 04.08.2013 at 10:39 pm

RE: Show me your cabinet knobs and pulls!! (Follow-Up #40)

posted by: breezygirl on 11.06.2012 at 11:45 am in Kitchens Forum

Kachinee--I installed Rejuvenation glass knobs on my glass dish hutch. I also put them on my booze upper cab in the DR.

Photobucket Pictures, Images and Photos

Photobucket Pictures, Images and Photos


Glass on glass
clipped on: 04.04.2013 at 07:47 am    last updated on: 04.04.2013 at 07:47 am

RE: Show me your cabinet knobs and pulls!! (Follow-Up #35)

posted by: phylhl on 11.05.2012 at 10:43 pm in Kitchens Forum

One of these days I will figure out how to post more than one pix in a posting. This is the mudroom. Knobs and pulls are Emtek in oil rubbed bronze.


Emtek knobs
clipped on: 04.04.2013 at 07:35 am    last updated on: 04.04.2013 at 07:36 am

RE: Show me your cabinet knobs and pulls!! (Follow-Up #21)

posted by: theanimala on 08.15.2012 at 07:23 pm in Kitchens Forum

Don't have a better/closer picture unfortunately. These are the Princetonian from Top Knobs, all placed horizontally.



Pincetonian from top knobs
clipped on: 04.04.2013 at 07:23 am    last updated on: 04.04.2013 at 07:24 am

RE: What did you use for under cabinet lighting? (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: WileyBob on 01.20.2013 at 10:52 pm in Kitchens Forum

We used the MaxLite bars from You have to mount a small junction box next to the lights and buy a "pigtail" (available from their website as well). They're expensive, but very nice. I've only had them installed for a week but I'm very impressed so far. They dim well with our Insteon dimmers, they're super bright, they run off line voltage 120 VAC, they are the right color (2700 warm white) and they are pretty much invisible behind the light rail. It took a while to install (we had 6 areas to light) but the end result is worth it. We went with the medium density lights (9 LEDs per foot) and they are almost too bright. I was going to get the 33 LEDs per foot and I'm glad that I didn't. So far, I can't recommend these lights enough.

We originally put these in with the included double-sided tape, but they fell down after a day. We remounted them with the included clips with no problems. Be careful of the included screws however, they were too long for our cabinets and poked out into the bottom of the cabinet. I bought a bag full #4 by 1/2" long screws at the local Ace hardware and they are perfect.

Here is a link that might be useful: Environmental Lights Maxlite Bars


clipped on: 02.23.2013 at 11:10 pm    last updated on: 02.23.2013 at 11:10 pm

RE: Maxlight under cabinet lights (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: sarends on 02.20.2013 at 08:59 am in Lighting Forum

Our cabinets are 36" - we installed two 12" 18 LED Maxlight strips under each one. They are the warm color - 2700. THe 18 LEDs per foot is plenty bright (they also have 12 per foot and 36 per foot). I can't imagine how bright the 32/ft models would have been. I am happy we did not go with the color temperature 5000s.

We are VERY happy with the results. The pictures are showed with the lowest intensity (fully dimmed) from the Lutron dimmer (model supplied by Environmental Lights specifically tested not to flicker - they don't). I sent EL photos and dimensions and they configured the recommended number of lights and connectors - worked out perfectly.

We had our electrician install them hard wired - he was very pleased with the ease of install. They are so light weight that we bought more double stick tape and pressed them in that way.

Here are some pictures - again, we could not be happier!
 photo IMG_2484_zpsb92eb87b.jpg

 photo IMG_2486_zpsf17ee301.jpg

 photo IMG_2488_zps215a0fc4.jpg


clipped on: 02.23.2013 at 06:52 am    last updated on: 02.23.2013 at 06:52 am

Finished Kitchen~White, Marble, Soapstone

posted by: katieob on 12.04.2009 at 02:57 pm in Kitchens Forum

Hi all.

A huge thank you to everybody on this forum who helped graciously with advice, photos, experience & info. What an incredible resource this is. Shout outs to Erikanh & marthavila for hood help, willowdecor for tile, all the stoners, and many more.

We moved in last week-bottom trim on fridge & dw are still missing, excuse the messy bottoms.

I'll be happy to provide details if anyone wants them.

Thanks for looking!





Marble Close Up


Soapstone Close Up



Latches on uppers
clipped on: 02.05.2013 at 04:06 pm    last updated on: 02.05.2013 at 04:06 pm

LED recessed cans guide for kitchen ...

posted by: davidtay on 01.30.2012 at 01:27 am in Lighting Forum

A collection of tips/ answers
Since kitchens have higher lighting requirements, I like to use 35 lumen per sq ft as a rule to compute the number of lights. If there are additional sources of light that will be used, the output (lumens not watts) from those sources can be deducted from the total.

Placement/ layout
1. Cans should be > 24 to 30 inches from the wall (on center). Most countertop spaces have upper cabinets (typically ~ 12" deep) + crown molding. The edge of the can may be spaced ~ 12" away from the edge of the crown molding (if present or cabinet if there is no crown molding) making the average distance between 26 to 30 inches.

2. Assuming the need for a fairly uniformly lit space @ 35 lumens per sq ft, the cans may have to be spaced closer together - between 3 - 4 ft apart (if all general lighting is provided by recessed lights). A fairly regular pattern is preferable to a random layout.

3. The actual layout of cans will be impacted by the location of ceiling joists, HVAC ducting, electrical wiring, plumbing, ceiling height, fire suppression sprinklers and other obstructions above the ceiling.

The Cree LR6 series lamps do not dim as well as the later models (CR6, ...). ELV dimmers probably work better with LR6 than incandescent dimmers since the total load of the lights may not meet the minimum load requirement for the incandescent dimmer.

Dimmers such as the Lutron Diva CL dimmers work well. The max output is 95%.

Some Choices (in order of preference) and notes
Cree CR6 or ECO-575 (Home Depot branded CR6)
ECO4-575 (Home Depot branded Cree CR4 4" recessed light)
The above are only available in 2700k light color.

Cree LR6 series - including the LE6.

The Cree CR6 and LR6 lamps will not fit into 5" housings.

The standard LR6 behaves more like a surface mount than a recessed light as the LED emitters are close to the surface and the recess is shallow. Some may not like the amount of light spillage (standard LR6).

There is a higher output version of the LR6 that has a much deeper recess.

To prevent the Cree lamps from falling out, the 3 prongs have to be fully extended and a slight clockwise twist made when push installing. The slight clockwise twist will ensure that the prongs are fully extended.

The Cree lamps are currently the best available today (2012).

Sylvania RT-6, RT-4. The lights could be easier to install than Cree lamps as they utilize the torsion spring mechanism. However, the lights do not look as pleasant as the Cree lamps.

The Cree and Sylvania lamps do outperform 26W CFLs (and incandescents) in a standard recessed can in terms of light spread and output as the standard bulb in a can solution traps a significant amount of light. The Cree and Sylvania recessed lamp solutions referenced above have all the LED elements facing outwards so that the effective light output is higher.

The CRI (Color Rendition Index) of Cree and Sylvania recessed lamps > 80.

There is no warm up time required for Cree recessed lamps, unlike CFL light bulbs.

Most recessed lighting is used with flat ceilings. Sloped ceilings would require special solutions such as the LE6 or some other form of lighting (i.e. -non recessed lighting).

Some common objections to recessed can lights stem from
1. looks and performance of traditional can lights (standard bulb in a can)
2. swiss cheese effect from too many holes.


clipped on: 02.01.2013 at 05:27 pm    last updated on: 02.01.2013 at 05:28 pm

RE: Soap dispenser standard size hole? (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: breezygirl on 02.01.2013 at 03:13 am in Kitchens Forum

You might look at this Elkay 'Gourmet' soap dispenser. I love mine, even 14 months later. The clean, simple lines might compliment your beautiful faucet. It looks to sell for about $72 in polished chrome like mine.

Photobucket Pictures, Images and Photos


Soap dispespnser
clipped on: 02.01.2013 at 02:29 pm    last updated on: 02.01.2013 at 02:29 pm

RE: Peg Dividers In Base Drawyers, Yes Or No (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: Gigi_4321 on 02.19.2012 at 12:43 pm in Kitchens Forum

Same here. I thought I would need pegs in my dishware drawer, but am actually glad I didn't get them. Put cushy cupboard liner down and you have the option to move things around without moving pegs. Someone else may have a good reason to have pegs, I'm fine without them.


clipped on: 01.31.2013 at 07:53 am    last updated on: 01.31.2013 at 07:53 am

RE: Thoughts on dish drawer organizers (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: badgergal on 01.30.2013 at 10:53 pm in Kitchens Forum

I have the peg in drawer system and I can honestly say that I don't think it is necessary. Of course I didn't find that out until after I already owned it. There have been previous discussions on this. Below is a link to one of those discussions

Here is a link that might be useful: Dish pegs


clipped on: 01.31.2013 at 07:52 am    last updated on: 01.31.2013 at 07:52 am

RE: Drawer Pulls (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: breezygirl on 01.26.2013 at 02:54 pm in Kitchens Forum

Here's a cut and paste of an answer I gave to someone last year.

"I did all pulls in my kitchen also. I don't like the look of two small pulls on wide drawers so I looked for pulls that came in multiple sizes including an 8". I aimed to size pulls on various drawer stacks following the rule of thirds or the Golden Mean, roughly translated into the pull covering the middle third of the drawer front with one-third of the drawer visible on each side of the pull.

After my pull order arrived, I walked around with the various sizes and held them up on my cabs to see what looked best. I ordered a couple dozen extra of each size pull to give myself flexibility. So I ended up with this:

30-38" wide stacks have 8" pulls
18-24" stacks have 6" pulls
17" drawers have 4" pulls

Cabs (very few)
all pulls are horizontal on cabs
11" doors have 4" pulls
15" doors have 6" pulls"

You can see how mine turned out with various size pulls all run horizontally in this pic.

Photobucket Pictures, Images and Photos


Pull sizing
clipped on: 01.26.2013 at 04:59 pm    last updated on: 01.26.2013 at 04:59 pm

RE: lighting help please! (Follow-Up #16)

posted by: mountaineergirl on 01.14.2013 at 01:42 pm in Kitchens Forum

I too had (and will have again after remodel is complete) LED light bars from Environmental and installing the LED retro fit lights for the cans. (They are "Halo" at HD and made by cooper). I have 9 counting the one over the sink. All of these will be on a dimmer. I also have a pendant over the island and chand over the table.

Three of the 9 have been installed just so I could check them out and I love them. Very bright but not bluish at all. I am 50+ and agree about needing brighter lights as one gets older. When I'm working in someone's kitchen who doesn't have UCL I just can't see anymore :(

I want to add that altho I had dimmers on my LED UCL and will again, I rarely used it. I liked them on bright all the time. But I did like turning all the other lights off and leave them on at night


Environmental light bRs
clipped on: 01.25.2013 at 10:52 pm    last updated on: 01.25.2013 at 10:53 pm

RE: Under Cabinet Lighting (Follow-Up #11)

posted by: bluetea57 on 12.20.2012 at 07:07 am in Kitchens Forum

Hi, I checked with a division of my electric company (found it through google) and got the Phillips led lights for about half of what they cost elsewhere! Google EFI and see where it takes you.


Led bars
clipped on: 01.25.2013 at 10:49 pm    last updated on: 01.25.2013 at 10:49 pm

Tasks & Rationale (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: davidtay on 12.07.2011 at 01:21 am in Lighting Forum

The most important task to prepare for a continuous LED UCL install is to figure out how to fit the longest run of lights end to end under the cabinets.

If the cabinets have intervening fences/ stiles, it may be difficult (or impossible) to form a continuous led section. Notching the cabinets is difficult once they are installed.

Corners should have the bars fitted perpendicular to each other to avoid interesting shadow zones.

The next is to decide whether to use direct wire or low voltage. This is more a logistical/ financial than technical issue as it requires selecting possible candidates and pricing out all the components involved in setting up the system.

Low voltage
If the sections are too far from the DC power supply (usually misnamed transformers) and/ or power requirement for the section too significant, additional DC power supplies may be necessary.

A thicker gauge wire may also be necessary. Many sites have a calculator for figuring out the wire gauge for a given power draw.

The cost of the transformer could be a significant component of the system which could result in the low voltage system costing more than equivalent direct wire systems

Direct Wire
eW profile is supposed to be good for up to a section as long as 50ft.
Direct wire lights are probably easier setup for installs with multiple long sections to be controlled from a single switch since there is no need to compute the wire gauge to compensate for DC voltage drop and figure out the correct power supplies.

Some reasons to use direct wire
1. High output desired for multiple sections spread out over a large area/ where low voltage equivalents could become too expensive.
2. No desire to deal with low voltage calculation, DC power supplies which need to be located in an accessible location. Or greater familiarity with AC devices.
3. Possibly better component quality (more likely for Philips eW profile) and CRI.

Reasons to use low voltage
1. Lower output. Low voltage bars have smaller conductors and/ or heat sinking that would limit the ability to drive/ over drive the LED emitters. This differentiating factor is likely to become less important as the LED emitters become more efficient.
2. Small enough install where the costs between Low voltage and Direct wire (AC) are not too dissimilar.
3. Requirement for low profile (~ 0.5")
4. Exact fit requirements, curved surfaces - low voltage tape can be cut, some bars may also be modified.
5. More vendors, more options.


Philips we profile ucl
clipped on: 01.25.2013 at 10:29 pm    last updated on: 01.25.2013 at 10:29 pm

Finished Kitchen Pictures!

posted by: ayerg73 on 05.28.2012 at 05:14 pm in Kitchens Forum

After over a year of planning and lots of great advice from this forum, it's time for the big reveal! The kitchen is finally finished!!

Ok - here are all the details...
Cabinets - custom builder. Shaker style. Full overlay. Painted cabinets - Colored Lacquer used is same color as SW Impressive Ivory.
Wood cabinets - natural cherry.
Hardware - Amerock Highland Ridge in Dark Oil Rubbed Bronze. 128mm and a few 3" pulls on small drawers.
Countertops - Anasazi Soapstone from The Stone Studio in Batesville, IN
Backsplash Tile - Debris Tile from Fireclay Tile. 2x6 subways in Kelp Green with swirl accents.
Fireplace Tile - Modern Mythology Phoenix Mixed Stone Mosaic
Paint - Walls are SW Krypton. Trim is SW Impressive Ivory at 50% intensity
Floor - Historic Blend Hickory floor from Tennessee Wood Flooring with hand distressing and square nail holes. 3, 4 & 5" planks, mixed.
Range - Bertazzoni Dual Fuel 48" range in black
Hood - Vent a Hood
Dishwasher - Bosch 800 Plus
Microwave - Sharp 24" Drawer
Sink - Blanco Silgranit Super single in Anthracite
Faucet - Grohe Concetto in Chrome
Soap Dispenser - Elkay Deluxe in Chrome
UCL - Neutral White LED strips from Environmental Lights
Pendants - Kichler Sayre 12" in ORB
Chandelier - Murry Feiss Sullivan Collection in ORB

The old kitchen was not in a terrible state, it was just not functional for us. The double ovens wouldn't close and we'd been reduced to duct taping them closed. The cooktop didn't cook anything evenly and the tile was coming up. There was also a ton of wasted space, which just irritated me when I couldn't find a place to store anything.

I knew I wanted a traditional range because I have short arms and always worried about burning myself when getting things out of the wall ovens, so I knew that a layout change was in order. We also had a very dark space with almost no natural light. We opened up the room to the dining room and put in light colored cabinets with lots of great lighting. The room definitely doesn't feel dark anymore. YAY!

Here's what we were working with before:
house 014

house 013

house 015

And here's what we have now...









Love the dog food storage. It makes feeding time a whole lot easier.

And my spice/knife drawer - thanks to Breezy for the idea!

It seems like just about every decision in our space has been touched in some way by you guys. Thanks for helping us create our dream kitchen!


clipped on: 01.25.2013 at 09:14 pm    last updated on: 01.25.2013 at 09:15 pm

RE: stupid faucet questions (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: breezygirl on 01.22.2013 at 07:35 pm in Kitchens Forum


Photobucket Pictures, Images and Photos



clipped on: 01.23.2013 at 09:58 pm    last updated on: 01.23.2013 at 09:59 pm

RE: What did you use for under cabinet lighting? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: GreenDesigns on 01.20.2013 at 01:01 pm in Kitchens Forum

I'm fond of the Hafele tape LED system. The transformer is small, and the thickness of the tape is extremely thin. You can do motion sensor applcations or a dimmer/on/off switch. It's very easy to DIY install.


clipped on: 01.22.2013 at 08:47 pm    last updated on: 01.22.2013 at 08:47 pm

RE: Is 30" too wide for a 4 drawer base cabinet? (Follow-Up #12)

posted by: breezygirl on 01.20.2013 at 08:34 pm in Kitchens Forum

My cabs are framed, full overlay. Standard toe kick.

Top drawer to bottom interior height:

Drawer front height:

It was actually my cab makers drawing with the split top drawer that gave me the idea. He said most people like the split to break up the very wide drawers. I debated it as it was a tad bit more money due to the two extra sets of Blum glides. I like how they turned out.

I agree abut this being the best forum! I couldn't have done my kitchen without it! I learned so much along the way and am happy to give back to the next members.


clipped on: 01.20.2013 at 08:43 pm    last updated on: 01.20.2013 at 08:46 pm

RE: Is 30" too wide for a 4 drawer base cabinet? (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: breezygirl on 01.20.2013 at 07:21 pm in Kitchens Forum

I have a few 4-drawer stacks. Flanking the range, I used 39" drawers, but split the top into two smaller drawers for two reasons. Since those would be the drawers I would open the most, I wanted to have them be a little easier to manage. Also, the baking area is to the right of the rangetop so I wanted to make sure someone could be working in that area without having to move all the time for me to access the top drawer. I love my wide drawers!

Photobucket Pictures, Images and Photos

Photobucket Pictures, Images and Photos

The top small drawer to the right of the rangetop is my spice drawer.
Photobucket Pictures, Images and Photos

Photobucket Pictures, Images and Photos

Left of rangetop:
Photobucket Pictures, Images and Photos

These pics are old now, and the drawers are organized better and differently today than they were.

I enjoy my 3-drawer stacks in other areas of the kitchen also, but they aren't a good place to store spatulas, baking tools, brushes, serving spoons, cork screws, spices, scale, graters, and other small kitchen tools. They are, however, wonderful in my prep zone for my large and small prep bowels.

I suggest planning out what you need to store in which zone by making a list of what you own and organizing them by which zone they are used. Then measure those items, even laying them out on the counter to see how wide and deep your storage for them needs to be. I found this to be *invaluable* in planning my storage. Yes, it's OCD to make a list of you own, but I'm glad I did it. Everything has a place now.


5 drawer bank
clipped on: 01.20.2013 at 08:45 pm    last updated on: 01.20.2013 at 08:46 pm

Hardware Happiness? I am stuck!

posted by: anitavacation on 01.18.2013 at 05:37 pm in Kitchens Forum

Hello everyone, I am new poster in mid kitchen remodel (you all make this seem so easy) :) I hope you don't find this too silly but my toughest decision is seeming to be our hardware choices for our white shaker cabinets.

Cup pulls - know I want these, we have all 5 piece drawers, no slab fronts, love this look.

Where I am stuck is finding the hardware to work with the cup pulls. Upper cabs will also be pulls (rather than knobs)- straight bar pulls which I am realizing are quite modern.

Is this an odd combo? Mixing traditional cup pulls with the modern sleek bar pulls? The kitchen is a mix of both, what I would consider 'traditonal' and 'modern' but these pulls...I am just not sure if they will work together!

I am considering these 'Bistro' pulls as a better choice to work with the cup pulls, do you agree? Thoughts? Ideas?
Thanks so much for any input, have a wonderful weekend.

Here is a link that might be useful: Bistro Pull


clipped on: 01.20.2013 at 08:37 pm    last updated on: 01.20.2013 at 08:37 pm

RE: Anyone willing to measure their Medallion 3 and 4 stack drawe (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: ci_lantro on 05.08.2012 at 12:16 pm in Kitchens Forum

Just for the sake of comparison...DH & I are building our own cabs. We're using a hybrid frameless style. The drawers in the 4 drawer stack are 4, 6, 6, and 6 inches deep, interior depth. Using side mount slides and applied bottoms, 1/2'' plywood, glued & stapled. There is a 3/4'' spreader rail between each drawer.

In the 3 drawer stack, interior drawer depths are 4, 10 and 10 inches.

I've been amazed at what all will fit in the 6" deep drawers.

Initially, I thought I wanted only one four drawer stack. After bldg. one 4-drawer bank & two 3-drawer banks, the remaining bank is going to be another 4 drawer one.

All the drawers are 30'' plus wide & 26'' deep. (Will have 30'' depth counters.)


clipped on: 01.20.2013 at 04:17 pm    last updated on: 01.20.2013 at 04:17 pm

RE: 3 or 4 drawers per cabinet stack? (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: pudgybaby on 01.31.2011 at 09:59 am in Kitchens Forum

I think this answer depends on whether you have framed or frameless cabinets. When I was looking for cabinets, I happened on a kitchen store that had a brand that offers both framed and frameless cabinets (DeWils). Careful measuring and comparing showed me that I gained about the equivalent of a normal shallow drawer in each drawer stack by going with frameless cabinets, not to mention the increase in width. This convinced me that I had to get frameless cabinets for my smallish kitchen. My two narrowest drawer stacks are 4-drawers, both with 3 shallow depth drawers and one deeper on the bottom. My 18 inch wide stack in my prep area and close to my range has cutlery, then spatulas, slotted spoons, wooden spoons, rubber scraper spatulas, then knives, scissors, measuring spoons, and my bread drawer is in the bottom. My other 4-drawer (27 inch wide, in my secondary prep area) has random prep and gadgets, then foils, wraps, baggies, etc, then linens, and mixing bowls on the bottom. These stacks are approx 6.5/6.5/6.5/10.5 drawer fronts, with outside box depths of 4/4/4/8 and usable space (from the bottom of the drawer box and including the free space) 4/4.5/4.5/8.75. These are all approximate. Notice that the top drawer loses a bit of usable space, I suppose because of the cabinet box?

My remaining drawer stacks are 3-drawer (42 inch and 48 inch wide).

My drawer boxes are not as deep as my drawer fronts, and I think that this is typical, though I'm not sure. It doesn't bother me at all. Things can still stick up above the drawer box. I don't think it's a stock vs. custom issue, but I don't really know. Here's a pic with 2 drawers open.

If it were me, I would choose one drawer depth configuration for your 3 drawers and one for your 4 drawers, and then keep them all the same. Otherwise, the horizontal lines in your kitchen are too busy. I think if you look at photos of kitchens, you will see that almost all of them are this way, although there are exceptions. I know that this does not maximize space useage, but to me, the small difference in drawer depths is not worth the busy look. I also would not put more than 2 different depths in one stack, which I think is also pretty standard.

Finally, I've posted a link from a fellow GWer about framed vs frameless drawers. The drawers make the most difference in space between framed and frameless because with framed, there is a horizontal frame between each drawer.

Here is a link that might be useful: framed vs frameless drawer info


clipped on: 01.20.2013 at 04:06 pm    last updated on: 01.20.2013 at 04:06 pm

Final Kitchen Reveal - Thank you GW!(lots of pictures!)

posted by: a2gemini on 12.09.2012 at 02:27 pm in Kitchens Forum

Final Kitchen Reveal

I can't believe it is almost a year since we signed the contract with the KD and GC. I only wish I had found GardenWeb before I signed the dotted line as I might have done a few things differently.
I hoped to create a web page or a story but decided just to do it in GW. I hope to have a finished kitchen link downstream. Sorry for so many pictures but I did trim it down!

The GardenWeb community was wonderful and so helpful in my decisions (outside of the design as this was done already). Gardenwebbers helped me with my backsplash, deciding on the pull out pantry, decorative lights and so much more. I know many of you have seen the kitchen on various posts but hoping this pulls it together.
I know I have a much better kitchen due to the GW. Thank you!

The original kitchen had contractor Merillat cabinets, Formica countertops, soffits, range with OTR Microwave and Adobe colored light fixtures. The sunroom had some old This End Up furniture.

The workflow was terrible - to empty the dishwasher, I had to go to 3 locations and I didn't really have any zones although technically, there was a triangle. I wanted more creativity in the design, but ended up staying relatively linear as I looked at adding a peninsula but didn't like how it closed in the room.

Our goals for our kitchen were basic - we were not planning on tearing down any walls, so we had the same basic footprint with modifications to enhance workflow. We wanted a warm and welcoming kitchen with quality full height cabinets, lower drawers, an induction cooktop, downdraft exhaust*, wall oven, quartz countertop, under cabinet lighting, and LED lights on dimmers where possible. We were also planning to re-use the hardwood floor. *Decided against this option and went with a hood). I also wanted to avoid box stores as much as possible, so most items were sourced from small businesses or small chains. The

The major changes were: removed soffits, switched range to cooktop and moved to opposite end of kitchen, removed desk and added wall and speed ovens, added a pocket door to the original pantry, and created a functional and fun sun room.

href="" target="_blank">Photobucket






Cabinets: Brookhaven Autumn Cherry with a black glaze
Pulls: Baldwin Brass 5 and 8 inch arch pulls in antique brass
Countertop: Cambria Buckingham
Sink: Blanco Silgranit Cascade Divide Cafe Brown
Backsplash: Grazia Rixi Crema, Beach mosaic, and 2x2 accent pieces
Paint - BM Coastal Path and trim is Mascarpone
Faucet: Waterstone PLP 5400 Antique Brass
Soap Dispenser: Waterstone Antique Brass
Cooktop: Wolf Induction 36 inch
Hood: Broan Evolution 3
Oven: Wolf E series
Speed Oven: GE Advantium (Monogram)
Refrigerator: Re-use Electrolux
Dishwasher: Re-use Miele
Disposer: 1 HP Insinkerator Evolution
Can Lights: Cooper RL07 3000K LED dimmable
Under Counter lights: GM Lighting LARC bars 3000K dimmable
Cabinet lighting: Kimberly triple bright dimmable tape lighting
Decorative lights: Hubbardton Forge
Rev-A-Shelf cutlery tray
Wusthoff double knife block
Lee Valley spring dividers(but ended up not using most of them)
Garden Window -put in about a year before the project but wish I had waited and put in a flush mount - I still might check to see if I can put in a Cambria seat.
Plug Mold: This was basic plug mold and the GC built an angle trim to mount.
GM LARC bars and Plug Mold - we did need to move the LED bars back as initially we had shadows
Now you can see the lights and plugmold - note the conduit to hide the wires..
Now you don't
What do I love about my new kitchen? Just about everything! I love the drawers, the full height cabinets, the UC lighting, the glass cabinet, my Waterstone faucet and most of all - the workflow!
I can now open the dishwasher and empty everything in the same area. From there, everything is close to the dining room for serving. I can organize and serve without feeling fragmented. I love my small bake zone and having a wall oven that I don't have to lean way down to get items out of it!

I also like my Spice Stack - it takes up so little room and I can use regular bottles

I love just sitting in the sun room and reading my "Nook" in my nook. My DH loves his new cave and the add on pull out pantry next to the refrigerator and the pocket door.


I am also having fun with my label maker - it almost makes me look organized!

What would I do differently? I think I would have looked into custom cabinets with plywood construction (still working on the broken drawer issue). In the bake area - I would have put deeper base and upper cabinets and throughout the kitchen might have gone with deeper uppers. An air switch for the disposer and one less outlet(If I used the air switch, I didn't need the switch and would have deleted the switch outlet to the left of the sink). I would have used 6 inch cans - at the time, I was going to use LED bulbs which fit better in 5 inch cans but the integrated LED cans are harder to find in 5 inch versions. I had to ditch my pegboard drawer insert due to the weight factor. I would not have ordered the Brookhaven knife insert - it was a total waste but maybe I can use it for a cutting board if I flip it over.
Lastly, I wouldn't try to do this again while changing jobs after 32 years, dealing with DM health issues from long distance, and trying to train for a marathon. (The marathon was nixed)

Ktichen Cabinets: Chelsea Lumber Company, Chelsea, Michigan
Faucet and Hardware: The Compleaat Baldwin Brass Center, West Reading PA
Field and Mosaic tile: in Califorinia (not in Michigan - they are unrelated!
Accent Tiles: Malsnee Tile in Reading PA
New Appliances: Heydlauff Appliance, Chelsea MI
Decorative Lights - Gross Electric, Ann Arbor
General Contractor: Bill Brushaber, Manchester, MI
Counter Installer: Blasius, Inc Vassar MI

Here are some drawer pictures
Under cooktop - would have used a false top drawer connected to this one to allow taller pots and fry pans - but love the sideways storage - and I can move the dividers or remove some

Knife drawer with Wustoff knife block
Silverware drawer with Rev-a-shelf insert - how long will the silverware stay this organized!

China drawer - turned out too much weight for the cabinet constructions - so will be modifying this a bit - and won't be using the pegboard..

Gadget drawer - I have made some modifications since the picture was taken but you get the idea - this was compliments of Grumpy Dave and his MadeSmart bins

The towels even have a home- still need to identify a towel rack for drying - I tend to use the towels and then into the wash.
Here is what is hidden in the angle cabinet - I moved the vinegars up to the first shelf - so my DH has to share the space...
This is my skinny cabinet - I was going to switch out to 2 drawers but it works great as is - OK, I was previously busted for having too many cutting boards -but it keeps them all in place perfectly!

Most GW don't like blind corners - but it was already a done deal when I found you - so I made the best of it for now - there is a post where someone built their own turntables - I might do that downstream - but the upper 2 cabinets have turntables to improve access.

I do have a SuperSusan in the corner - keep my most used items on the left and then I only open the first door and snag them - If I need to rotate - then I open it completely.
And I can hide a few items in the corners..

Here are a few pictures of the sunroom - I refer to the cabinets on the ends as the his and her "caves" -Now DH has a place for his toys - the cabinet has power in it to charge electronics and note there are also plugs under the bench for power. The back of the bench back has a piano hinge so we can fold down the back if we want more air flow. The table rises up and moves closer to the bench seat for a cozy breakfast or dinner.

Table up!

The one drawer on each cave is a work space - it is just a big cutting board - but a nice feature.
View from my nook - I wish I had snagged a picture with all of the red leaves - but next year, I will be ready!

What is left - just a few odds and ends - I need to have the hanging light adjusted for proper height, a few light switches to swap. I am also thinking of a Boos kitchen cart - I found one on that looks like it might just work.

Thank you again for helping me along the process. I met so many new friends and hope to meet some of you in person downstream.



clipped on: 01.12.2013 at 07:57 pm    last updated on: 01.20.2013 at 08:42 am

Brand New Galley Kitchen!!

posted by: mfnJsb0809 on 06.30.2012 at 09:29 pm in Kitchens Forum

Hello all:
Long time lookey loo! I just completed a galley kitchen remodel- hope you enjoy!! These via my iphone so quality of pics and lighting not great!



clipped on: 01.19.2013 at 04:36 pm    last updated on: 01.19.2013 at 04:36 pm

Brooklyn Galley Kitchen Finished (not white!)

posted by: brooklyngalley on 05.12.2012 at 04:32 pm in Kitchens Forum

Although I am not a frequent GW poster, I referred to GW throughout my kitchen renovation planning. It was thanks to GW that I have the countertop and knobs/pulls that I envisioned but thought I would never have: THANK YOU! We are absolutely loving every inch of our new kitchen! I wish we had professional photos, but alas, these will have to do.

Before: One wall of cabs and appliances (everything was falling apart) left from the prior owner and one wall of IKEA shelves/storage/counter that I designed and lived with for 4 years as we saved for our renovation. Although I liked the accessibility of the open design on the IKEA wall (and I loved the SimpleHuman trash can and recycling can), the cleaning was difficult (thankfully, my brother-in-law doesn�t mind the cleaning and that entire wall is now in his new apartment). I also had very little counter space with this old plan. I vowed that my new kitchen would have very little open wall space and next to nothing on the counters. We would also have efficient appliances (including a DW � after 12 years of hand washing) that didn�t need to be velcroed together.




After: HOORAY!




42" wall cabs: right to the ceiling; the extra space and the look are just what we wanted


I put an open shelf next to the window to keep my fruit (bottom shelves) & garlic, onions (top shelves) off the counter and to let in more light from our awkward window.


All drawer base cabs except for 30" sink, 15" trash & 9" pantry: drawers rock and have changed my life for the better. Love the pegs and double-stacked utensil storage.




Trash/Recycling: I finally figured out how to get 4 separate spaces. I had my husband cut one of the pull-out cans to fit my compost pail; one of favorite elements. Under the sink is glass/plastic on the left, paper on the right.



Spice drawer: I like my spices are right in front of me (literally) as I chop and prep. In my old kitchen, they took up counter space and were hard to clean.


Tall/Skinny Fridge: everyone should have one. It�s only been a week, but I can�t seem to fill it! I love that I can see everything.



Tall/Skinny pantry: I opted for this instead of a larger fridge. Love the storage and ease of accessibility. Still have yet to fill it.



Range/Skinny spice drawers: I am a huge Berta Fan! The spice drawers are skinny and long: perfect for cooking utensils, knife sharpeners, grill supplies, etc.


18" DW/Deep Sink/Pull-out Faucet/Sink Storage Tilt: 18" is perfect for our family of three. The sink/faucet/tilt storage: highly recommend.



Green: a color that we love and have all over our home. The pictures don�t do the colors justice (especially the counter which looks rather greyish in these photos). And in case you�re wondering, the textured porcelain tile floor feels amazing � not like other hard/cold tile that I have read about on GW (apologies for the renovation dust that is still on the floor).




Size: 8.75� long x 6.75� wide x 8� high
Design: me (inspired by the slate fish etchings mounted on tent stakes, by the fridge, that my husband made in a printmaking class before I met him)
Timeframe: Due to a cracked cabinet (which Kraftmaid replaced � no questions asked � very easy to work with), our 3-week renovation turned into 5 weeks, but well worth it. Our contractor was amazing. The only structural change we made was to the kitchen entryway.
Cabinets: Kraftmaid � Maple � Hayward style, Honey Spice stain
Countertop: Rosemary Caesarstone (see my other GW post on this topic � thanks to GW I was able to find this recently discontinued stone)
Range: 30" SS Bertazzoni Professional Series X304GGVX
Refrigerator: 24" (80" height) SS Liebherr CS1311
Dishwasher: 18" SS Bosch SPX5ES55UC
OTR Microwave: 30" SS LG LMV2015ST
Floor: Daltile Continental Slate (porcelain tile) � Brazilian Green
Tile: American Olean - Legacy Glass � Celedon (ordered from Artwalk Tile � GW tip � thank you!)
Knobs & Pulls: Satin Nickel � 1" diameter knobs (K-12), 4" pulls (BN-3) - Horton Brasses (another GW tip � thank you!)
Sink: 23"SS Elkay Lustertone ELU2115
Faucet: SS Grohe Concetto Pull-Down 32 665
Track Light: Satin Nickel - Eurofase TK-5VTX3-34 Vortex 5-Light
UC Lighting: Super Bright LED strips


clipped on: 01.12.2013 at 11:13 pm    last updated on: 01.12.2013 at 11:13 pm

RE: My just-about-finished Super White kitchen **pics** (Follow-Up #48)

posted by: dragonfly08 on 03.29.2012 at 03:53 pm in Kitchens Forum

I apologize for the photos above being on the small side. I didn't even realize I copied the small version until now. If you want larger pics, just click on the photos and it should take you to my photosharing site.

michoumonster... If you have any questions, I'd contact Schoolhouse Electric and just ask. I think they would look great in a bath!

jmcgowan... Hungry Caterpillar is on regular rotation here during reading time, too! Yes, I LOVE my bluestar! After using it for 3 weeks, I appreciate the high BTUs, the wonderful simmer burner, the self-reignite feature and the oven... the spaciousness, the awesome rollout tray and how quickly and evenly it bakes! The best part... it cleans up EASY! With my last stove (a black/SS GE), it took so much elbow grease to remove anything baked on and the streaking drove me nuts! Right now, I'm perfecting Mickey Mouse pancakes over the weekend on the griddle...

camphappy... we love our floors. DH and I have always tended towards darker floors. These are red oak that were Dark Walnut-stained (I believe 3 coats). Our last house had gorgeous but glossy dark hardwood and the glossiness drove us crazier than the dirt showing against the dark. We went with matte finish this time. For me, having 2 little ones means I'm vacuuming at least once day. And, honestly, I only mop once a week, aside from spot cleaning spills/messes. My floors look fine (and for what it's worth, I didn't vacuum or mop prior to taking pics!).

Just thought I'd add a few more photos, mostly on the organizational side, in case anyone is interested. Little features that I'm coming to appreciate.

My spice cabinet, located on top to left of the range. I had only specified "spice cabinet" in my designs and had no idea what was going to be made or installed. I believe they are Rev-a-shelf. I had never seen this before and I'm growing to like it more and more. It swings out and stays "closed" with magnet. Lower shelves are good for frequently used spices while I plan on keeping less-frequently used ones up higher (and they get high!). *NOTE: I've obviously NOT organized my spices yet; in fact, I have a huge bag of my spices still stored somewhere...*

On the bottom to the left of the range, my only roll-out. I opted for a ROS over a drawer to keep my condiments and oils because I prefer to see most of the bottles and access them from the sides if needed. And I kinda did the reverse and arranged for taller bottle on top since the vast majority of my bottles turn out to be tall. I LOVE having them all easily accessible with minimal bending and crawling!

Here is a better shot of my built-in paper towel rack. It presides over the tray cabinet. Cabinet is quite deep so I am actually able to store extra rolls behind.

Upper corner cabinet. While initially not thrilled about the bifold corner door, I LOVE having 100% easy access to the corner shelves! We had an angled upper corner cab in our last house... and, well, I'm sure this isn't new to most of you, but we love it.

We included a small 15"Wx12"D pantry and broom closet to the side of the refrigerator. Still sitting unorganized (except for our cereal boxes which I'm 200% sure will sit here) but will serve to hold frequently used pantry items. I'm considering configuring broom closet to a messaging center... but still haven't decided how. Any ideas?

RO system setup under bar sink with holding tank.

Our Amerock pulls:

A closeup of our restored vintage holophane industrial pendant.

Evening shot. We have LED bulbs in the pendants, 6" LED recessed cans (from Home Depot) for ceiling, and LED strips for under cabinet lighting (from Elemental LED) which we leave on almost all day long.

Last, another daytime shot of the schoolhouse light in the mudroom.


Light info
clipped on: 01.12.2013 at 08:21 pm    last updated on: 01.12.2013 at 08:21 pm

My just-about-finished Super White kitchen **pics**

posted by: dragonfly08 on 03.28.2012 at 02:21 pm in Kitchens Forum

Our 10wk-long kitchen renovation that began on Jan 2nd finally came to an end 2 weeks ago. Moving into the kitchen has been a slow but fun process and we are enjoying every minute we spend in it. We are still missing some key items, an appliance garage (currently being made at the cabinet-maker's), microwave, furniture... but gradually, we are making this place the heart of our home.

House is a cozy colonial situated in central NY built in the 1980s that came with a magnificent piece of property. The inside, however, needed (and still needs) much update. We ripped out all the (irregular) flooring on the first floor and had them replaced. Structural changes took place in the mudroom/garage-entry area as well as the wall between kitchen and dining room (widened).

Prior to renovations, I had ZERO experience with reno of any sort, let alone in design. I stumbled upon GW and my world changed! You have all been fantastic and an invaluable source of information and support. I direct all my renovating friends here now! Your finished kitchens have all been sources of inspiration for me and I have most definitely borrowed some of your ideas (built-in paper towel holder, motion detector light switch in pantry, stone window sill...).

Lastly, this is my dream kitchen in the home we hope to raise our family in. White kitchens are fairly uncommon around these parts and so far, that is one main feature people are taken by when they first walk into our kitchen. I hope you all enjoy the photos!

Cabinets: Custom-made by Concepts in Wood (Syracuse, NY), Shaker-style doors, painted BM Chantilly Lace
Counters: Super white quartzite and titanium soapstone
Main Sink: Shaws Original Sink by Rohl - 30"
Main Faucet: Single Side Lever Country Kitchen Faucet with extended spout and sidespray by Rohl
Bar sink: inexpensive stainless sink from Ebay
Bar Faucet: EcoPure filter faucet (runs water from an RO system)
Range: 36" Bluestar with griddle
Hood: Vent-a-hood
Dishwasher: Kitchenaid
Refrigerator: old Kitchenaid that came with house (plan to replace in a year or 2)
Island pendants: Restored vintage hologen industrial pendants with original Heisey glass
Hardware: Highland Ridge by Amerock in 4" and 6"
Backsplash: Bellevue 3x6 ceramic tiles in Glacier by Best Tile


Before (view into dining room):

Before (view into garage entry):

Before (pantry with crazy-deep shelving):

Before (view into family room):










Coffee/Wine bar:

Titanium Soapstone:

View from Mudroom:


Microwave will sit on counter atop drawers:

Mudroom (closet on opposite wall):

I have to include this photo of our backsplash in the midst of being grouted, taken while my GC was at lunch. Amazing what a difference grout makes!

Lastly, a fun shot of my girls having fun with bubble wrap and packing paper one evening when I was trying to move all my junk back in:


clipped on: 01.12.2013 at 08:12 pm    last updated on: 01.12.2013 at 08:12 pm

RE: Recessed lights - which kind? (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: Ginny20 on 10.25.2012 at 10:51 am in Kitchens Forum

Biggest difference is in energy efficiency of the LED vs. incandescent (and halogens are incandescent). LED converts most of the electricity to light, but incandescent converts a lot to heat, so it takes a lot more electricity to make the same amount of light. Incandescent bulbs burn out faster. LED's are more expensive in the short run, but they will not need to be replaced for a few years or more. Also, the Ecosmart LEDs at Home Depot, which are the HD version of the excellent Cree CR6, are self trimming, so you don't have to buy a separate trim ring for each unit. Depending where you live, you can find the HD Ecosmarts for from $25 to $40 each. I have them and love them. They are fully dimmable and cast a very pleasing, bright light. For more information, you can check out the Lighting Forum. There are lighting professionals on there who are very helpful.


clipped on: 01.12.2013 at 07:35 pm    last updated on: 01.12.2013 at 07:35 pm

RE: positioning single handle kitchen faucet (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: breezygirl on 01.10.2013 at 07:48 pm in Kitchens Forum

Both of mine are turned forward. To me, it's actually better functioning for the reasons you mentioned and because you don't have to reach as far to turn on/off the water.

Photobucket Pictures, Images and Photos

Just make sure the faucet you're purchasing is manufactured so that it CAN be installed forward. Not all can do that.

P.S. The prep sink handle looks odd because the Tapmaster is engaged.


clipped on: 01.11.2013 at 07:59 am    last updated on: 01.11.2013 at 07:59 am

RE: Hardware placement (Follow-Up #15)

posted by: breezygirl on 04.30.2012 at 04:26 am in Kitchens Forum

Dragonfly--If I had the slightest iota to do with the way your amazingly gorgeous kitchen turned out, I'm very proud. I love, love, love your kitchen! And that tile is just perfect. I searched for it online when you posted your kitchen, but had trouble locating the exact one for som reason.

A2--Here are a couple of other pics. (I did resize in PB, but they still look too big.)

6" pulls, except 8" on top right hand drawer.

8" on left. 6" on right.

Island on the right has 6" pulls. Rangetop wall has 8" pulls, except for 4" on top split drawers. Sink wall has 6".

I'll also link Theanimala's finished kitchen below where she used multiple size modern bar pulls. Hers is what inspired me choose all horizontal pulls!

Here is a link that might be useful: Theanimala's kitchen


clipped on: 01.09.2013 at 08:49 pm    last updated on: 01.09.2013 at 08:49 pm

RE: Hardware placement (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: dragonfly08 on 04.29.2012 at 07:27 pm in Kitchens Forum

I would have to agree with suzannesl and breezy. I think you could pull off using your current pulls by placing 2 for the longer drawers, similar to buelh's (centered) or rtwilliams (spread further apart). I think that badgergal's pulls work cohesively because they are appliance sized pulls and much longer. 5" handles placed on the frames will look funny, IMO.

I have drawers that aren't quite as wide as yours, ranging from 17"-39". For all but the 39", I ended up using only 1 pull which was centered. Since I have all framed doors (no slabs), the placements were all the same. For a more uniformed and less fussy look, I used only 2 sizes: 3.5" and 6.5" pulls, though actual end-to-end lengths were slightly longer. (Also, I really couldn't afford anything longer than the 6".) I only used the 3.5" pulls on my cabinet doors that were short (over fridge, under sink, tray, etc).

Btw, Breezy... your pulls/kitchen played an integral part in my final handle choice and selection, even though outcome is slightly different! :)



2-pulls for 39" top drawer:


clipped on: 01.09.2013 at 08:45 pm    last updated on: 01.09.2013 at 08:45 pm

It's done and I love it!

posted by: mpagmom on 08.30.2012 at 04:55 pm in Kitchens Forum

Our house is a new build and we started moving in about 2 months ago, but I just got the last dining room shade hung last night. I've been posting pictures here and there and wasn't really planning doing a "reveal," but a couple people asked about it so here it is. If nothing else, it can show people what NOT to do. :)

I know it sounds trite, but I REALLY want to thank all of you for your help. Buehl was particularly helpful in tweaking the design. Rhome410, steph2000, breezygirl, and many others were there for me during my backsplash angst. I had already chosen my windows before I saw PPS7's kitchen, but seeing hers helped me feel comfortable with the decision. Her kitchen also inspired my island design. I can't name everyone that inspired me, but know that I appreciate your input.

I was going for a calm kitchen with easy-care contertops. My husband was going for "happy." When I told him about the sweeby test, he responded by writing this:


"I want my kitchen to be tranquil, soothing, calm and happy. It should be cozy and bright, too.

"The perfect backsplash for my kitchen will not add an element of romance or whimsy but it might have a fish tile in it. Even a bear tile would be nice, as long as it's not within striking distance of the fish.

My perfect countertop will be level and divert attention from the mess my kids have made in the living room. When friends see it they will remark, 'Have you lost weight?' and 'You're looking quite dashing today!'

But most of all, my ideal kitchen will make my wife happy. Every time she sees it she'll smile at both the design and with fond memories of the process she used to create it. My ideal kitchen will perfectly match my wife's kitchen mission statement, even if it doesn't quite match mine."

Isn't he cute? I'm not sure if I have fond memories of the process - it's more of a fog. I was trying to make a million decisions about the entire house, so some details fell through the cracks. I don't know who picked out the crown moulding, but it wasn't me. I told the KD I wanted something simple, and sometime later this was installed. At least it's 10 feet off the ground! But I still smile when I see the backsplash, and I feel like the space is happy. Oh, and it works great as a kitchen. I just tested out the lunch-making, breakfast-eating, homework-finishing morning rush for the last week and it came through for me!

On to the details:

Cabinets: Locally-made Amish painted white (it's their standard white)

Countertops: Leathered Kodiak Brown granite

Backsplash: Sunflower mosaic in ming green marble from Saltillo Imports (purchased from Caledonia Tile in Indianapolis) and AKDO 3/4" x 3/4" mosaic in ming green light (it's supposed to be all light, but there seems to be dark in there)

Floors: White oak stained with Minwax Provincial and finished with satin polyurethane

Walls: Sherwin Williams Comfort Gray

Knobs and pulls: Restoration Hardware Lugarno knob in satin nickel and Restoration Hardware Asbury pull in satin nickel

Faucets: Brizo Solna (loved the hidden pullout spray) standard and bar-size

Sinks: Silgranit precis super single bowl and large bowl

Stools: West Elm rustic counter stool (thanks PPS7!)

Pendants: Kichler 2665OZ in olde bronze

Refrigerator: Samsung RF266 in platinum

Dishwashwer: Bosch SHX68R55UC in stainless

Range: GE Cafe Electric

Hood: Zephyr Breeze with baffle filters

Lighting: All-Pro 5" LED recessed lights, LED under-cabinet lights, and LED puck lights.

And here are the pictures (finally!)

Full view of kitchen

Range wall


With lights on

Close-up of tile


clipped on: 01.06.2013 at 04:14 pm    last updated on: 01.06.2013 at 04:14 pm

Question about farm/apron sinks

posted by: p.ball2 on 08.15.2012 at 11:15 am in Kitchens Forum

Hi again. Hoping to get some feedback about apron sinks. I have read through a bunch of old threads and have not found this topic addressed or maybe I just don't know what it is called to properly search for it.

First, I have decided to get a cast iron apron front sink. I am looking to get the Kohler whitehaven self-trimming 30". I have not seen any reviews of these sinks on the kitchen forum. The self-trimming feature seems ingenious (at least for the cabinet maker) and it is one of the more reasonably priced cast iron sinks out there. Does anyone have one?

Secondly,I am assuming with the self trim that I cannot do this but what is the purpose of the horizontal piece of wood that I see at the base of many apron front sinks? Is this some sort of drip guard?



clipped on: 01.06.2013 at 03:59 pm    last updated on: 01.06.2013 at 03:59 pm

Finished Kitchen Finally!! Pics

posted by: laur66 on 05.15.2011 at 08:38 pm in Kitchens Forum

Hello GWers,

I am so happy to be the person saying that our kitchen is finished. I have lurked on this site for months and received invaluable advice and ideas. I didn't even know that there was such a thing as a single sink for a kitchen when I started this process! I can honestly say without this forum I would not love every little bit of my kitchen the way I do. Thanks!

Before (realllllly ugly)



After (love it!!)










clipped on: 01.06.2013 at 02:14 pm    last updated on: 01.06.2013 at 02:15 pm

RE: Finally: Before & After; "Small" Budget c. 1826 City Row Home (Follow-Up #48)

posted by: KevinMP on 01.06.2013 at 12:42 am in Kitchens Forum

I really went all over. I went to All Marble & Granite across the bridge on Admiral Wilson Blvd for my kitchen and bathroom counters. I got the bathroom tile from a wholesaler in Jamesburg, NJ and the kitchen marble tile from a wholesaler in Cinnaminson, NJ. I bought my hood at Home Depot (same price as other places and they usually stock one (it looks more professional than it is). I bought the stove at Jenkintown Electric, the microwave at Lowes, and the rest of the appliances at Gerhard's. You may want to try getting your cabinets through BuildPro on Washington Ave. They had the best prices by far and it included delivery. Good luck.


clipped on: 01.06.2013 at 02:03 pm    last updated on: 01.06.2013 at 02:03 pm

Dining Rm Pendant vs Table Size

posted by: jas-space on 05.27.2009 at 12:17 pm in Lighting Forum

We're looking at a Jonathan Adler pendant that is 42" in diameter, and the dining rm table is 40" (expands to seat 12). Is it awkward to have the pendant slightly wider than the table? Is that a potential for head bonking?


clipped on: 01.05.2013 at 03:33 pm    last updated on: 01.05.2013 at 03:33 pm

Does warm-glow under-cabinet LED lighting really exist?

posted by: MareLuce on 10.04.2012 at 11:08 pm in Kitchens Forum

Does warm-glow under-cabinet LED lighting really exist?

I dislike the medicinal harsh white or blue-ish white cast that most LEDs send off.

My kitchen is "Texas country" with maple cabinets, limestone nearby, and highlights of deep reds and greens. I'm looking for a LED under-cabinet light that is truly warm, or as warm as possible.


clipped on: 01.03.2013 at 09:10 pm    last updated on: 01.03.2013 at 09:10 pm