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I hate my house

posted by: blackcats13 on 01.05.2009 at 03:00 pm in Old House Forum

I know you've all been there, so please help me out. Advice, encouragement, tough love, whatever it takes.

We bought and moved in last August. It's a fixer, with little charm, other then the clawfoot tub upstairs that is too short for a soak. Why did we buy it? To get into the neighborhood, and because it was big enough. All we've done so far is: new front load washer (needed a new one, but this was the only real splurge), paint the guest room and my future sewing room, and change the space a little upstairs to give DSD her own room (now painted a beautiful turquoise). We bought a decent looking ceiling fan/light from Craigslist but can't decide where to put it, or even if it's possible to put it. We have nice bathroom light strips (from a salvage place) for the eventual bathroom renos. Oh yeah, and the surprise water heater replacement.

We have some big to-dos. New INSULATED siding (that $400 heating bill almost made me faint. We have the heat set at 68 when we are home, and 62 when away or sleeping. We have plastic over the windows and insulated drapes.) A new roof (no leaks yet thankfully). We need to hire a structural engineer to check out some stuff that might be worrisome. A new furnace (please gods not yet). A/C would probably be nice to have but will have to wait, same with a dishwasher. I really want to change out the picture windows on the front and back of the house to let the breeze in since we don't have A/C, but I'm going to give restoring the original wood windows elsewhere a try myself this summer. All plumbing and wiring needs updating, but can wait. Everything needs to be ripped out and updated. Everything is old, dingy, ugly, some things are falling apart.

Of course, we have no money, and while our credit card debt is not HUGE, it will take about 2 years to pay off, this is a goal we are working hard on. We're planning on doing the siding this summer, using credit or a payment plan :(

So. I hate my house. I can't buy anything to make me hate it less. I can't paint because it's too cold and the windows are covered. I think my plants are too cold and dying. It's winter and it's cold and dreary and I'm whining pathetically.


clipped on: 06.12.2012 at 10:04 pm    last updated on: 06.12.2012 at 10:05 pm

RE: Porcelain tiles that look like wood (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: swtsae on 05.17.2012 at 02:22 pm in Flooring Forum

We just finished the install of our porcelain plank wood tiles. We love em, and think they turned out great.



clipped on: 05.17.2012 at 10:03 pm    last updated on: 05.17.2012 at 10:03 pm

RE: Ceramic Beadboard Backpslash - Done (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: SusieQusie60 on 08.20.2011 at 12:44 pm in Kitchens Forum

Wow - thank you all for your comments. I really appreciate it. I just went and took out the "official" kitchen file so I could try to answer any questions.

First, I have to point out that there is one horizontal seam. Look at the 2nd picture, behind my stove. It was the only place where the tile was not long enough. I agree that I probably wouldn't want that running somewhere more obvious. I also have to admit that I'm amazed at how the vertical seams really don't show at all - or at least they don't show to me!

The name of the beadboard tile is: Ceramica Colli Nantucket 8X20 Perline Tile

We ordered it from a local tile store where the owner/manager is a friend of my husband's. We paid about $5 a square foot for it which made me quite happy. (Considering the first ceramic beadboard tile I found was about $65 a square foot - way out of my price range!!)

I always have a little trouble answering questions about my countertop. It is a leathered finish, and we got it from All Granite and Marble in New Jersey. They don't have any "names" just numbers. I can tell you that our countertops cost about $4,000 (cuts outs, installation, etc.) I can't say enough good things about the people at All Granite after our cracked Blanco sink and all of their help in getting the old sink OUT and the new sink IN. But that's another thread entirely...

As soon as the last few details are taken care of, I'm actually anxious to post on the Finished Kitchen Blog. Not sure how that's working these days though, so if anyone wants to clue me in on how to do that...

Thanks again - SQ


clipped on: 05.16.2012 at 09:58 pm    last updated on: 05.16.2012 at 09:58 pm

RE: Can anyone show me a slide-in range in a peninsula or island? (Follow-Up #20)

posted by: trixieinthegarden on 11.11.2008 at 11:27 pm in Kitchens Forum

I am approaching my answer from the other side...I had originally wanted a slide-in in my island, for the same reasons most people do. I thought I would be cooking, facing my guests, having a convivial social experience. Due to the inability to relocate the electric and run a new gas line in the slab, I redesigned the kitchen to have a large (4ftx5ft) single-level island and placed the range on the perimeter. I also got a good hood to go above it.

The decision to relocate the range out of the island was a great one; even though it wasn't really going to give me what I intended to have, the convivial social gathering works BETTER because the range is not in the island. We find that people literally gather around the entire island, and the dynamic would be completely different if the range was there. It would force people to gather around the opposite side of the island primarily, whereas having the entire surface uniform encourages people to arrange themselves in a circular fashion...much better than all on one side!

In retrospect, having the single level large slab with circulation space around the whole island is a much better option for the way we really live and entertain. And it's perfect for all sorts of large projects, lots of people helping with a meal or a task, for layout for parties, etc. I often have most of the cooking done for a party before my guests arrive, and the stove is not in use while I am entertaining. For family dinners, I tend to use the cooktop for simmering sauces and the oven for the main dish, so I'm not using the stove actively a whole lot when people are around, etierh.

I wouldn't trade it for a range-in-island configuration even if someone offered the range and the island hood for free!


clipped on: 05.16.2012 at 08:50 am    last updated on: 05.16.2012 at 08:50 am

LED recessed cans guide for kitchen ...

posted by: davidtay on 01.30.2012 at 01:27 am in Lighting Forum

A collection of tips/ answers
Since kitchens have higher lighting requirements, I like to use 35 lumen per sq ft as a rule to compute the number of lights. If there are additional sources of light that will be used, the output (lumens not watts) from those sources can be deducted from the total.

Placement/ layout
1. Cans should be > 24 to 30 inches from the wall (on center). Most countertop spaces have upper cabinets (typically ~ 12" deep) + crown molding. The edge of the can may be spaced ~ 12" away from the edge of the crown molding (if present or cabinet if there is no crown molding) making the average distance between 26 to 30 inches.

2. Assuming the need for a fairly uniformly lit space @ 35 lumens per sq ft, the cans may have to be spaced closer together - between 3 - 4 ft apart (if all general lighting is provided by recessed lights). A fairly regular pattern is preferable to a random layout.

3. The actual layout of cans will be impacted by the location of ceiling joists, HVAC ducting, electrical wiring, plumbing, ceiling height, fire suppression sprinklers and other obstructions above the ceiling.

The Cree LR6 series lamps do not dim as well as the later models (CR6, ...). ELV dimmers probably work better with LR6 than incandescent dimmers since the total load of the lights may not meet the minimum load requirement for the incandescent dimmer.

Dimmers such as the Lutron Diva CL dimmers work well. The max output is 95%.

Some Choices (in order of preference) and notes
Cree CR6 or ECO-575 (Home Depot branded CR6)
ECO4-575 (Home Depot branded Cree CR4 4" recessed light)
The above are only available in 2700k light color.

Cree LR6 series - including the LE6.

The Cree CR6 and LR6 lamps will not fit into 5" housings.

The standard LR6 behaves more like a surface mount than a recessed light as the LED emitters are close to the surface and the recess is shallow. Some may not like the amount of light spillage (standard LR6).

There is a higher output version of the LR6 that has a much deeper recess.

To prevent the Cree lamps from falling out, the 3 prongs have to be fully extended and a slight clockwise twist made when push installing. The slight clockwise twist will ensure that the prongs are fully extended.

The Cree lamps are currently the best available today (2012).

Sylvania RT-6, RT-4. The lights could be easier to install than Cree lamps as they utilize the torsion spring mechanism. However, the lights do not look as pleasant as the Cree lamps.

The Cree and Sylvania lamps do outperform 26W CFLs (and incandescents) in a standard recessed can in terms of light spread and output as the standard bulb in a can solution traps a significant amount of light. The Cree and Sylvania recessed lamp solutions referenced above have all the LED elements facing outwards so that the effective light output is higher.

The CRI (Color Rendition Index) of Cree and Sylvania recessed lamps > 80.

There is no warm up time required for Cree recessed lamps, unlike CFL light bulbs.

Most recessed lighting is used with flat ceilings. Sloped ceilings would require special solutions such as the LE6 or some other form of lighting (i.e. -non recessed lighting).

Some common objections to recessed can lights stem from
1. looks and performance of traditional can lights (standard bulb in a can)
2. swiss cheese effect from too many holes.


Really good info
clipped on: 05.11.2012 at 09:39 am    last updated on: 05.11.2012 at 09:39 am

need a good creamy white benjamin moore color to paint cabinets.

posted by: srg215 on 01.22.2010 at 09:12 pm in Kitchens Forum

can anyone recommend a creamy white for kitchen cabinets?


clipped on: 05.06.2012 at 01:02 pm    last updated on: 05.06.2012 at 01:02 pm