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RE: Recommend Old Roses for Rainy Zone 8 (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: michaelg on 06.26.2011 at 12:09 pm in Antique Roses Forum

Cathy, USDA climate zones refer only to the annual low temperature and so encompass very different climates. Compared to eastern zone 8, Washington State zone 8 has cooler, drier summers, longer summer days, and a dark, rainy late fall, winter, and spring.

Best OGRs for you will be teas, chinas, and noisettes, in the particular varieties recommended by people in your area.


clipped on: 09.09.2012 at 11:55 am    last updated on: 09.09.2012 at 11:55 am

RE: Building Shower vs. Buy Pre-Formed (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: lazarususa on 03.24.2011 at 10:06 pm in Bathrooms Forum

If you want a real tile can do it yourself, if you're halfway good at following directions. I might suggest you go to Sign in and ask your question on our FORUM. We can walk you thru the process....


clipped on: 05.22.2012 at 08:58 am    last updated on: 05.22.2012 at 08:58 am

Amazing cleaning tip. Leather car seats.

posted by: janetaz on 09.10.2012 at 11:03 pm in Cleaning Tips Forum

I know, not a home cleaning tip but I just have to share. I have a 2005 car with tan leather seats. I am meticulous about my car and clean it weekly. Over the years the tan leather seats have developed lines which have embedded dirt that I have never been able to get out. I've tried many leather cleaners, none have touched the embedded dirt. Soooo, tonight I googled cleaning leather car seats. Of course there were many that just said to clean with a leather product and then condition. Well, hello! I have been doing this for 7 years with no results. I pulled up a You Tube video that was like a miracle, lol! The guy on the video had a leather ford seat, half was uncleaned, the other half cleaned with Dow Scrubbing Bubbles and a soft brush. The difference was amazing. He did state that this is not to be done often, just for a good clean every so often. I have Scrubbing bubbles. I went out to my car with the bubbles and a toothbrush. First target, my drivers seat. Oh my gosh, the dirt just poured out of the pores and cracks. I was shocked as I wrung out my rag, how much dirt came out. My seats now look amazing! Sure, the wear lines on the sides are still there, but you cant see them. He did say to follow up with a conditioner, which I did. I am so happy, I just had to pass this tip along. Hope it helps someone who is as fussy about their car as I am about mine. I love my car, its my dream car that I was finally able to buy 6 yrs. ago. I'm hoping to drive it for years to come. I'm even happier now that I know how to get the yuck out of the leather seats!


clipped on: 11.14.2012 at 07:50 am    last updated on: 11.14.2012 at 07:50 am

Awesome window cleaner!!

posted by: Joiful on 09.27.2004 at 01:30 pm in Cleaning Tips Forum

I just got this tip from another board. It was posted by Lois. It works better than anything I have ever tried. Here's the info:

Posted by: LoisLaneTX Replies: 80 Posted on: 9/13/2001 7:10:47 PM
While in line at the grocery, I let a lady go ahead of me, because I had many items and she had only about 20 boxes of Corn Starch....I asked her what she was going to do with all that corn starch. She said she was a professional window cleaner and it was the best thing she'd ever found to make the windows sparkle.

Here's how: Just dilute a little bit in a bucket and make a solution. Take a clean terry cloth and dip into solution, wipe over mirror or window. Then take a clean/dry terry cloth and wipe excess. Turn cloth to dry side and polish'll see it sparkle and never buy that blue or green stuff again. Or use smelly vinegar!!!

I just put a few Tablespoons of cornstarch in a qt. spray bottle and fill 1/2 full with water. You can't store this solution for any length of time because it will start to smell. Just mix a small amount to use up each time you want to clean windows, mirrors, etc.


clipped on: 11.13.2012 at 07:21 am    last updated on: 11.13.2012 at 07:21 am

RE: Awesome window cleaner!! (Follow-Up #41)

posted by: mainecoonkitty on 11.12.2012 at 12:24 pm in Cleaning Tips Forum

I am a believer! I have 36 windows in my house and cleaned them all this weekend. They sparkle and I've never used anything that cleaned really dirty windowns this well and this easy. No streaks, even though I was cleaning them on a sunny day.

Here's my own recipe for this cleaner, in a quart spray bottle:

1 TB cornstarch
1/2 cup rubbing alcohol
1/2 cup white vinegar
fill with warm water

Shake well and generously spray dirty window and wipe glass surface with a damp microfiber cloth. then wipe dry with an old bath towel or second micro fibercloth.


clipped on: 11.13.2012 at 07:21 am    last updated on: 11.13.2012 at 07:21 am

RE: Clean/Restore Formica Finish (Follow-Up #18)

posted by: tenngarden on 02.03.2013 at 12:18 pm in Cleaning Tips Forum

When i lived in fl, our home had 1980's, dark brown, wood grain laminate countertops and cabinets. All in very good shape, but ugly! We painted the cabinets a golden yellow which actually made the countertops look not half bad. To shine them up, i found a product (actually saw it on an infomercial 1st) called rejuvenate. Found it at Home Depot eventually. It's a polymer coating which really added shine to the countertops. It's applied with a microfiber mitt and u literally paint it on with the mitt. Clean the countertops as directed and then apply the polish. Work quickly and in one direction. It looks great. It does not last forever, have to reapply every 1-3 months. Plan to use it now on not quite as ugly blue marble laminate. Good shape, but older. HD still carries it, check cleaning product aisle or kitchen remodeling dept. u can check availability of inventory for HD right on line for ur closest store. I've also had great luck filling small dings in laminate with wood putty and/or a magic marker or paint(paint must match exactly, of course). Rustoleum also makes a countertop paint which works well(not as shiny as new) but it does chip with heavy use, so I used polyurethane (spar) to topcoat. Took a long time to dry, but very durable.


clipped on: 02.08.2013 at 10:10 am    last updated on: 02.08.2013 at 10:10 am

RE: Cleaning Wooden Kitchen Cabinets (Follow-Up #30)

posted by: bucky2 on 07.11.2009 at 02:30 pm in Cleaning Tips Forum

I think it's called Restorz-it.


clipped on: 02.08.2013 at 10:04 am    last updated on: 02.08.2013 at 10:04 am

RE: Getting rid of mildew stains on linens (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: shellybrow on 08.31.2012 at 05:15 am in Cleaning Tips Forum

I can give you a simple and green cleaning way of removing mildew stain from your linens. Simply mix vinegar, baking soda and lemon juice and apply this paste on the stained area. Leave it till the paste gets completely dried, then wash it off by rubbing the stained area with your hands. This will surely help.


clipped on: 11.14.2012 at 07:33 am    last updated on: 11.14.2012 at 07:33 am

RE: how to clean unsealed wood floors? (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: chinacat_sunflower on 03.27.2008 at 02:24 pm in Cleaning Tips Forum

:) 'seal' is a modern term...

wood floors in fine homes were cleaned with a damp rag, stains buffed out with pumice (rottenstone) or fine sand and oil, and over the generations, were burnished to a shine that plastic coatings will never match.

you can clean wood floors with plain old water most of the time, a mild solvent (vinegar, 1/4 the recommended amount of your favorite cleaner) at most.

my floors relatively new, about a hundred years old, and the powder/laundry room gets butcher-waxed twice a year (it's 7ft square, less the washer and dryer footprints, so it doesn't take much) but everything else? gets rubbed down with a combination of olive oil, lemon essential oil (which the furniture-grade 'lemon oil' has very little of) and bees wax, melted together and applied warm (sparingly) then buffed (I've got my dad's old bonnet polisher from his car-buff days) and even my husband has to admit that there is a difference between walking on wood, and walking on poly-cryl sealant.


clipped on: 11.14.2012 at 06:59 am    last updated on: 10.31.2014 at 10:39 am

RE: how to clean unsealed wood floors? (Follow-Up #14)

posted by: caroleena on 05.30.2013 at 02:41 pm in Cleaning Tips Forum

back in late 50's we had a family friend who had unsealed hardwood. her floors gleamed! she used a cotton mop pad and the old red furniture oil to give it an occasional once over. i have unfinished hardwood also and i mop it with water and a little mr clean. been doing that for 30 years. i oil on occasion..


clipped on: 10.31.2014 at 10:41 am    last updated on: 10.31.2014 at 10:41 am

How to remove red dog food stain from carpet (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: Darsway on 10.28.2012 at 03:06 am in Cleaning Tips Forum

This is how to remove ANY stain even dog food vomit. Take 1 part ammonia and 3 parts water, put in spray bottle if you have one. Spray on stain. Take a white cloth or towel and put on top of stain. Take a hot iron with steam and put over towel. Let sit about 1 min moving it back and forth after about 30 seconds. The stain will transfer to the towel before your eyes. A carpet cleaner man showed me this trick many years ago and I still use it. I just did this 10 mins ago because the tricks on here didnt work so I did what I always revert back to and to be honest that stain was so red I didnt think the iron would work but it did like a charm. You may have to do a couple of times but it will come up. Trust me, all pet stains will come up, lipstick, eyeliner and makeup. You name it. Hope this helps all of you because it works. Peroxide dont. I tried it.


clipped on: 11.14.2012 at 06:56 am    last updated on: 11.14.2012 at 06:56 am

RE: I've asked this before--maybe someone has a new way re: lamin (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: mary_c on 11.04.2012 at 11:08 am in Cleaning Tips Forum

Yes, you have asked this question before.

You are getting the same answers now as you did before, but you're evidently still using the Bona hardwood cleaner.

This is directly from the Pergo site:

"Pergo's exclusive LusterGard TM surface protection ensures dirt and dust will not adhere to your floor and guarantees it will not stain or fade like other flooring surfaces. For day to day maintenance an occasional damp mop, quick sweeping or light vacuuming with the hard floor attachments are usually all it takes to keep your Pergo floor clean. Do not use soaps, detergents, or cleaners with wax because they may leave a film, dulling the floor. Difficult spots like nail polish, markers, tar and cigarette burns can be easily removed with Pergo's Laminate and Hard Surface cleaner. Another option is to mix 1 gallon of water with 1 cup vinegar or 1/2 cup of ammonia per gallon of water. Pergo floors must never be waxed, polished, sanded or refinished and never use a wet or jet mop when cleaning."

Here is a link that might be useful: One of your previous threads


clipped on: 11.13.2012 at 07:31 am    last updated on: 11.13.2012 at 07:31 am

RE: Keeping your whites...white! (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: shellybrow on 08.31.2012 at 05:27 am in Cleaning Tips Forum

For whiter and brighter look of any fabric, just add a cup of vinegar and 1/2 cup of lemon juice in a bucket of water and cleaning detergent solution. Mix all of them thoroughly and soak your fabric in it for 15 minutes. This will help you to maintain the clean bright look of your fabrics.


clipped on: 11.14.2012 at 07:54 am    last updated on: 11.14.2012 at 07:54 am

RE: First blooms! (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: neptune44 on 04.15.2014 at 08:58 am in Clematis Forum

Marcopetala species fully open

Macr. Markham's Pink, planted last fall


clipped on: 10.31.2014 at 05:04 pm    last updated on: 10.31.2014 at 05:04 pm

Dirt Bombs...

posted by: solsthumper on 03.06.2007 at 08:41 pm in Cooking Forum

Stacy and Annie, kids of all ages love these, it's a cross between a cinnamom sugar doughnut and a muffin. Enjoy.

Dirt Bombs
Yields: 12 muffins*

3 cups AP flour, minus 3 tablespoons
1 tablespoon baking powder
½ teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon ground nutmeg
¼ teaspoon ground cardamon
¾ cup (1 ½ sticks) unsalted butter
1 cup granulated sugar
2 large eggs
1 cup whole milk **

Topping ***

¾ cups unsalted butter, melted
½ cup granulated sugar
1 ½ teaspoons ground cinnamon

Preheat oven to 400º F. Place the rack in the center position. Generously grease a 12-cup standard muffin pan.

Sift the flour, baking powder, salt, nutmeg and cardamon into a mixing bowl. In another bowl, cream the butter and sugar until light and fluffy. Scrape the bowl down half way through. Mix in the eggs. Add the dry ingredients alternately with the milk in two additions, mixing gently by hand to incorporate all the flour. The batter will be on the stiff side, but airy. Don’t over mix or beat the batter as this will make the muffins tough. Spoon the batter into the prepared pan, without smoothing the tops. Bake for about 25 minutes or until a cake tester inserted in the center comes out clean. As soon as the muffins are cool enough to handle, turn them out onto a wire rack.

Add the melted butter to a bowl. In another bowl, mix the sugar and cinnamon.
Dip the muffins (top, sides and bottom) in the butter, using a pastry brush -if necessary- to cover areas not buttered by dipping. Immediately roll the muffins in the cinnamon sugar mixture. Serve warm or at room temperature.

*I've made this twice, and both times, this recipe has yielded 16 muffins instead of 12.
**I substituted whole buttermilk for whole milk because I always have it on hand and prefer it for baking.
*** The amounts listed for the sugar and cinnamon are not quite enough to coat all the muffins, so I recommend you double it.



clipped on: 03.14.2014 at 11:45 am    last updated on: 03.14.2014 at 11:45 am

RE: Pickled Banana pepper recipe for refigeration (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: ksrogers on 09.30.2008 at 07:53 pm in Harvest Forum

About all you can do is mix the distilled white vinegar and pickling salt to TASTE. You could add up to about 15% water. Slice, or at least deseed the peppers. Then pack the jar(s) with them and pour in the room temp brine that has ben tasted. As an added tang, a couple of cut up cloves of garlic can be added as well. If you want a sweeter brine, you can add a little sugar to taste. A recipe isn't really necessary unless it was meant for home canning. These peppers are quite tender, so the addition of some Pickle Crisp, or food grade calcium chloride will help keep them a bit firm a bit longer. ANY heat applied will turn these to mush. Thats the reason I use a vacuum process for my also very tender pepperoncini peppers. They get no heat either and I am still enjoying 3 year old quart jars that are still quite crisp. My brine is full strength 5% whiet vinegar and pickling salt to taste. As you mentioned, these should be stored in the fridge at all times.


clipped on: 09.24.2014 at 01:32 pm    last updated on: 09.24.2014 at 01:32 pm

RE: Pickled Banana pepper recipe for refigeration (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: kayskats on 09.30.2008 at 11:23 pm in Harvest Forum

here's Linda Ziedrich's (joy of pickling) recipe for bell or pimentos .. I think bananas could be used
Refrigerator Pickled Peppers
2 pounds bell or pimento peppers, preferably of mixed colors, cut into strips or 1 to 1 1/2-inch squares
1 large celery stalk with leaves, chopped
3 garlic cloves, chopped
1 tbsp fennel seeds
1 bay leaf
3 cups water
1 l/2 cups white wine vinegar
2 l/2 tbsps pickling salt

In a large bowl, toss the peppers with the celery, arlic and fennel seeds. Pack this mixture with the bay leaf into a 2-quart jar.
Combine the water and vinegar, and dissolve the salt in the liquid. Pour the brine over the vegetables. ap the jar and refrigerate. The peppers will be ready in about 8 days and will keep well for 6 to 8 weeks in the refrigerator.

Makes 2 quarts.


clipped on: 09.24.2014 at 01:26 pm    last updated on: 09.24.2014 at 01:26 pm

$3k budget 'elegant' bathroom renovation done!

posted by: staceyneil on 02.02.2011 at 10:24 am in Home Decorating Forum

Hi all-
I just posted this over on the bathrooms forum, where I was spending a lot of time in the last year... but thought some of you also might like to see it.
We just finished a totally DIY re-do of my teen daughter's bathroom.
It involved gutting the room to the studs and joists and re-doing everything. She had a lot of design input, and we used a lot of salvaged, yardsale, Craigslist and eBay scores, including an old dresser re-purposed as a vanity. I'm super psyched at how it turned out, all for less than $3k (plus a LOT of time and effort, of course...)
More details are on the Bathroom forum link, below.

Here is a link that might be useful: Bathroom forum post about this bathroom


clipped on: 02.03.2011 at 10:39 am    last updated on: 02.03.2011 at 10:40 am

RE:: Disappointed in Stanley Furniture coming damaged to me yeste (Follow-Up #12)

posted by: organic_smallhome on 08.05.2007 at 02:56 am in Home Decorating Forum

P.S. And if they give you any crap, tell them that you will contact the Consumer Affairs Division of the state attorney general's office and file a formal complaint. If anything will get you your money back, this will. Many companies don't give a damn about the BBB, but the last thing they want is to have a state's attorney investigating their company. SO much easier just to refund your money. :)


clipped on: 01.11.2011 at 09:20 am    last updated on: 01.11.2011 at 09:20 am

RE: @Beekeeperswife - Gel Stained Dresser (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: beekeeperswife on 03.07.2012 at 07:15 am in Home Decorating Forum

sorry, I missed this.

I did not use the first part of the staining process, she used 2 different colors to make the color she wanted. Her first step involves a water based stain.

I used Old Masters oil based stain in Spanish (Oak?). It's nearly black. I did wash it down very lightly to clean it with a little TSP, and then did sand it very very lightly just to give it something to grip onto.

I did this during the muggiest part of the summer. Not a good idea. I think it took about a week to dry between coats.

The trick is to make sure it is dry before the next coat. I couldn't be happier with the results. I also sprayed the hardware, they were some weird coppery looking color.



clipped on: 03.07.2012 at 10:07 am    last updated on: 03.07.2012 at 10:07 am

A recessed can I could love.

posted by: palimpsest on 01.08.2011 at 01:12 pm in Home Decorating Forum

These fixtures by ELP have a gypsum aperture that is taped and spackled or plastered right into the ceiling. These are so minimal that I could even see them in historic setting where necessary:





clipped on: 01.10.2011 at 08:49 am    last updated on: 01.10.2011 at 08:49 am

RE: Amtico Flooring - anyone have this in their homes? (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: palimpsest on 01.24.2011 at 01:25 pm in Home Decorating Forum

I have not used it recently but I grew up in a house that had Amtico in the entry, front and side halls, kitchen and laundry and it wore like iron. It was in place for 30 years and only replaced when the icemaker leaked and they had to repair the subfloor. It was worn by then, but the new vinyl that replaced it looked almost as worn in about 7.

It is not a budget flooring but to my knowledge the quality is still very high.


clipped on: 01.25.2011 at 09:42 am    last updated on: 01.25.2011 at 09:42 am

Before & After Bedroom REALLY Pic Heavy

posted by: dollfanz on 02.14.2011 at 11:13 pm in Home Decorating Forum

My good friend and neighbor allowed me to redecorate her bedroom. She was very trusting in my taste and vision and happy to say she is very pleased with it.

I am not a professional decorator by any stretch so be gentle.
It took three weeks and a lot of internet shopping.
The paint is a light gray from Behr called Manhattan Mist.
The light fixture and Zebra rug are from
The bed is a Bernhardt Cooper queen bed on clearance from US Mattress. Free shipping and no sales tax.

And last but best of all. My mother did the fashion sketches for her that are above her bed. She has 2 little yorkies and so she added that as a surprise on the middle picture.

We couldn't find just the right chest for the TV so we found this one and I refinished it in silver paint and I trimmed it in black and blinged it. I also blinged her pillow shams. So she has lots of glam.
The curtains are from Tuesday Morning but they are not staying. We have other ideas.

So here are the before and afters.


clipped on: 02.16.2011 at 10:03 am    last updated on: 02.16.2011 at 10:04 am

RE: BM Wedgewood Gray, Smoke, or Palladian Blue Anyone? (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: srg215 on 02.10.2011 at 07:23 pm in Home Decorating Forum

i did my ds's room in BM Smoke and I love it! I lay in his room and just stare at the color and say "ahh". the pics don't do it justice. my friend is going to use it in her master bedroom, so it is a versatile color.



clipped on: 02.12.2011 at 09:31 am    last updated on: 02.12.2011 at 09:32 am

RE: Can I peek at your bathroom lighting? (Follow-Up #14)

posted by: lukkiirish on 02.24.2012 at 05:46 pm in Home Decorating Forum

Hi Boxer!

I think I showed this to you a long time ago, but this is our updated bathroom, DIY and on a strict budget. I don't recall the amount we spent, but know it was less than 1000.00. The one thing I didn't do and still want to is the floor.

Image and video hosting by TinyPic

Our vanity is similar in size to yours and this is the fixture we used in there, it was in the 100.00 range. What I like about it is each light swivels.

Image and video hosting by TinyPic

And just for fun this is what we started out with (see your bathroom isn't that bad!)

Image and video hosting by TinyPic


clipped on: 02.29.2012 at 09:50 am    last updated on: 02.29.2012 at 09:50 am

RE: Can you identify this fabric style? (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: jbrig on 03.06.2012 at 10:09 pm in Home Decorating Forum

Oakley, be sure to check at some of the online discount fabric places that sell decorator fabric.,,,, come to mind offhand...


clipped on: 03.07.2012 at 09:27 am    last updated on: 03.07.2012 at 09:27 am

RE: care to share a piece of art? (Follow-Up #70)

posted by: sashasmommy on 12.13.2010 at 08:31 pm in Home Decorating Forum

This is a painting my husband received from a client for doing some work on his website, it's by Anthony Grant in Boulder, CO. He was over at Tony's house and saw this painting with a bunch of others just on the floor, leaning up against a wall. Tony had painted it on a whim one day and didn't really even like it, so when my husband said he liked it so much, a deal was made. A couple months later, Tony opened a new gallery and had a grand opening with this painting on the wall, and it was the hit of the show. They even featured it in a newspaper article about his gallery. He had several buyers, but had to turn them away because it was already promised :-) So he painted a couple more like it, but none of them are as good :-) It's called Ravens in the Snow...

Ravens in the Snow by Anthony Grant


clipped on: 12.16.2010 at 02:25 pm    last updated on: 12.16.2010 at 02:26 pm

DIY upholstered headboard for guest room

posted by: terriks on 04.20.2011 at 07:09 pm in Home Decorating Forum

I posted last week about the progress of my guest room, spurred on by a visit by my MIL. I decided that I really wanted to headboard before she arrives (later on today!) so I made this one yesterday:

Image and video hosting by TinyPic

The materials I used were half inch plywood that I had cut to size at Lowes. Two twin sized foam mattress pads (much less expensive than foam from the fabric store), a table cloth (good source of large pieces of inexpensive fabric), batting and a covered button kit.


clipped on: 04.22.2011 at 10:30 am    last updated on: 04.22.2011 at 10:30 am

RE: Does Anyone Have Black Interior Doors? (Follow-Up #12)

posted by: igloochic on 01.23.2011 at 12:38 pm in Home Decorating Forum

My doors were mostly missing their hardware in those pics but they are all done in gloss paint (btw the best black door paint is from fine paints of Europe and I think it's called Dutch door if I remember right) and my hinges and knobs are in a rubbed bronze finish that is basically black. I think crystal can be gorgeous and then the wonderful black glass knobs of old of course look fabulous.


clipped on: 01.25.2011 at 08:29 am    last updated on: 01.25.2011 at 08:29 am

RE: Does this wall arrangement look ok? (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: inspiredisabel on 01.16.2011 at 09:53 am in Home Decorating Forum

Thanks for the comments Carol!

I just wanted to post an inspiration photo...


I like this look where it is a full arrangement and my radiator below would "act" as this console table does.


clipped on: 01.17.2011 at 10:50 am    last updated on: 01.17.2011 at 10:50 am

Easy to sew valance directions

posted by: my3dogs on 07.17.2008 at 08:01 pm in Home Decorating Forum

Hi everyone!

Here are the directions for the valances that you saw in the post linked below. They ARE EASY - but the directions are long, because I am trying to give you enough detail, even if you are a beginner. Read them all the way through so you understand them, and ask any questions you may have. If you are a real novice, you may want to make a sample using just muslin, or other inexpensive fabric, til you get the hang of it.

This is a no-pattern valance that I started making last summer. It requires just straight stitching. My windows are generally about 50" (more or less)in height. If your windows are very short or very tall, you may want to vary the length of the fabric you use. I would say to err on the 'buy more' side though, so they don't look skimpy. The fullness adds richness.

I generally use 1 1/4 yards of 54" wide home dec fabric to make the valance. You will need an equal amount of lining fabric. If you choose to put trim on the bottom (it adds a lot to the treatment, IMO) buy 1 1/2 yards of trim to make sure you have enough to go across the length of your 54" wide fabric. If your fabric is wider than 54", buy enough trim to cover its width.

Cut your valance fabric and lining to equal lengths. I always measure the side edges of my fabric and mark the length before cutting. It may have not been cut straight at the store, and you want to be sure that your left side is the same length as your right side.

Pin the two rectangles of fabric together on all sides, with the RIGHT (front) sides of the fabrics inside, facing each other. Before putting the fabrics together, I mark lightly on the back which is the TOP of the print (if using a print) and which is the bottom, so your print will end up right side up!

Depending on the type of rod you plan to use for the valance, you need to leave openings on each side that will become your rod pocket. Continental rods (the flat wide plain ones) need a 4" rod pocket. If you use a decorative rod, with finals on the end that screw off, I would recommend making your rod pocket 2" wide. For a small tension rod, I'd make the rod pocket 1.5" wide. You don't want to force your fabric onto the rod - allow room to make it easy for you.

Measure down from the TOP of your pinned together fabric, and make a light mark with pencil on each side, the size of your chosen rod pocket, plus 1/2". That 1/2" is going to be the width of your top seam. You'll be making a mark on the left and right sides 4 1/2" down from the top if you use a Continental rod, for example. Stitch from these marks down each side to the bottom, using a 1/2" seam.

You'll need to leave an opening in the top or bottom to turn your valance inside out when you're done stitching.

I'd suggest a 4" - 6" opening for turning. If your rod pocket openings are 4", you don't need to leave another opening, you can use them to turn it inside out.

Mark the opening you need to leave, then stitch across the top and bottom edges, using a 1/2" seam, leaving your opening...well...OPEN!

Clip your fabric corners off OUTSIDE of your stitching. This is just a small triangle of fabric from each corner. This will allow you to get nice sharp edges on your corners when your turn the valance right side out, as it reduces the bulk of fabric there.

Turn your valance right side out, pulling it through the opening you left. I use a wooden chop stick to push the fabric gently at the corners to make them nice and square, once I have turned mine right side out. Don't push too hard, or you may poke a hole through your valance! At this point, you should have a lined rectangle of fabric, with rod pocket openings near the top of each side.

Close the opening you left for turning, either by folding and pressing the edges in and hand stitching it closed, or use 'stitch witchery' type of fusing tape to do it. You can also sew it closed with your sewing machine, but you want to do it right at the edge. You want to make this closure as 'invisible' as possible, so I always use fusible tape.

Carefully iron your valance. Use your fingers to work the edges, so that you have your seam right in the middle of each edge, so you don't see the front fabric on the backside, and you don't see the lining from the front.

Now, to stitch the rod pocket. You will be making one row of stitching across the front of your fabric from side to side.
Measure down from the top edge, so you have the same length opening on each side. The size of the opening you left on each side was determined above by the type of rod you're using.

You can lightly pencil on the line that you need to stitch across, or do what I do - Place the fabric on the sewing machine, and put the needle down on the place where you'll start stitching. Take a 4" (approx) length of masking tape, and lay it against the upper edge of the fabric, to the right of the needle, and stick it to the sewing machine base. You can use this tape edge as a guide to hold the top edge of your fabric against as you stitch across. It helps you make a straight, even rod pocket. My sewing machine has tape on it for all different widths of rod pockets!

If you chose to put trim on the bottom of your valance, do it now. I use 'Aleen's OK To Wash-It' fabric glue that you can get at WalMart or a fabric store. If you use glue, just follow the directions on the bottle to glue your trim evenly to the front bottom of your valance. I lay my valance on my kitchen island, and let it set overnight, while the glue dries. You can also stitch your trim on, either by hand or by machine. I prefer the glue, because you see no stitching on the back side. (I'm anal.)

Now to make the ties. You can simply buy ribbon (such as grosgrain) or use purchased cord (see my dining room silk ones in the link) or make them out of fabric. Use either the same fabric or a coordinating one.

Here, you first need to decide if you are going to tie your valance up with bows, or do knots. Bows take longer ties.

Allow yourself a MINIMUM of 36" long ties. You can always cut them shorter if necessary, but you can't make them longer. I suggest hanging your valance up and using string to tie them up temporarily to see how long you need to make your ties. (It's longer than you think!)

Cut your strips of fabric approx 4" wide and the length you have decided on above for your ties. Fold and pin the strips in half the the short way, so you have a long strip of fabric that is 2" wide. Make sure the right sides are together, (inside) because you are going to turn them inside out after stitching.

Stitch along the pinned edge of each strip, about 1/4" from the edge. Now the fun part - turn those narrow strips inside out. My chop stick comes in handy for this, but use whatever method you choose to accomplish this.

Press the ties just as you did the valance rectangle, making sure your seam is even on the edge. I fold in the raw ends and use my fusible tape to close them, but you can machine stitch them closed or do it by hand - Your choice. Your valance is done!

Put it on your rod, using the rod pocket. Hang it in your window. Now, take the ties, and simply drape them over the rod on each side, having half of the tie fabric strip hanging in front, and the other half of the tie hanging behind the valance.

Now, gather up one side of the valance in your hands, and reach behind it it grab the dangling tie in back. Tie up the valance, by tying the front and back pieces of the tie together, either in a knot or a bow. Do the same with the other side, making sure your ties on each side are tied up at the same length.

Now stand back and make sure your valance looks even at the bottom on each side. Use your hand to 'finger fold' and drape your fabric until the look is what you want.

You'll be surprised at what a difference it can make in the look by spacing your ties closer together, or moving them further apart on the rod. Also by tying the ties higher or lower...

This is where you need to play around until you get the look you want. On the HGTV message board, a woman made these and kept posting pics asking for advice - Higher? Lower? Move the ties apart or closer...It's really all up to you. Hers looked GREAT when she was done, and she was so pleased to have made her own custom valance. I hope you all feel the same way, if you try them!

Here is a link that might be useful: several shown here - all the same instructions


clipped on: 02.11.2011 at 09:27 am    last updated on: 04.07.2011 at 10:58 am

RE: Ellen Kennon Paint/Colors (Follow-Up #84)

posted by: kmcg85 on 01.16.2008 at 10:41 am in Home Decorating Forum

I posted these in the "greens" thread, but here they are again.
EK Edgewood Green


clipped on: 12.20.2010 at 10:05 am    last updated on: 12.20.2010 at 10:06 am

RE: Floor Lamps...What Do They Say About a Room? (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: luckygal on 11.14.2011 at 03:39 pm in Home Decorating Forum

I don't think affordability or convenience has much to do with the scarcity or popularity of floor lamps. It's likely that they are not as popular as they were in years past for other reasons. It's not as easy to decorate with them when side tables are such a necessity for the convenience of having one's drink or food close at hand. In years past people actually sat at table to eat and drink. End tables have become such essential furniture where there is space for them and there are so many choices in table lamps that most people don't think of the alternative of a floor lamp.

I'm waiting for a business call so have some time to spend and was curious as to how many of the pics I've saved show floor lamps so clicked quickly through and found that 7% of the LR pics I've saved show them. I have 121 pics of LR's so not sure if that means anything. I also checked a few designer LR's I've saved and there are some there.

Room by Charlotte Moss...


Room by Diamond Baratta...


Room by James Radin...


"2 floor lamps here"

"another one here"

"might be a floor lamp"

I have one floor lamp which I love. It's an antique turned wood lamp and is large. One of those finds I just had to have. Good thing I have a large LR altho I'd use it no matter what size the room. I have difficulty with the concept of "it doesn't work". IMO if I love something it works or I'll make it work somehow. Even if the scale, color, or style of some object may not be *perfect* for the room if I love it, it works. That's what makes rooms interesting IMO. Life is too short and uncertain to deny myself the pleasure of owning something beautiful or well made, especially when it has that feeling that a good antique has. My lamp is similar to the one in Charlotte Moss' room.


Love the James Radin LR.
clipped on: 11.16.2011 at 11:08 am    last updated on: 11.16.2011 at 11:09 am

Forgot pic of kitchen (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: waltbsc on 02.18.2011 at 10:56 am in Home Decorating Forum



clipped on: 02.19.2011 at 08:03 am    last updated on: 02.19.2011 at 08:03 am

RE: Franksmom! (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: franksmom_2010 on 02.24.2011 at 11:35 am in Home Decorating Forum

Hi Ttodd! Here's my floor cleaner recipe:

1/4 cup baking soda
1/4 cup white vinegar
*dish soap -I use about half a teaspoon, but I have really soft water, so if you have normal or hard water, you can use more)
disolve that in a gallon of very hot water.

I use it to mop ceramic tile and vinyl. I was using Mr. Clean or Lysol floor cleaners before, and was shocked at how much residue it left on the floors.

All purpose cleaner:

1 tablespoon borax
2 cups hot water
3 tablespoons white vinegar
1 tablespoon dish soap

Stir until the borax is disolved, then pour into a spray bottle. I use a 19oz bottle, and just wrote the recipe on the bottle with a Sharpie. I've used it on Formica, fiberglass, glass, ceramic, finished wood, painted wood, stainless steel, porcelain, and vinyl, and haven't had any problems. I also use it to clean jewelry, and have used it as a spot remover on carpet. It works really, really well on grout, too.

The original recipes said that you could add a few drops of essential oil for more fragrance, but most essential oils are toxic to cats, so I don't use them. If you have pets, check with your vet. The rest of it is totally nontoxic at that dilution.

I found the floor cleaner recipe when Frank was a kitten, and he would follow me around the house when I was mopping, and walk all over the wet floor. I didn't think the Lysol on his paws was safe, and turns out, it's not.

DH used to always complain of headaches from the fumes when I would clean, and as we were trying to eliminate other chemicals from our diet, I started searching for nontoxic cleaners. You can certainly buy those things at the grocery now, but it's just so much easier and cheaper to make your own. Also, I've never had a problem with fumes, like if you use bleach in the toilet and shower and the all-purpose on the mirror and vanity, the combination doesn't make any sort of noxious combo.

Both cleaners are cheap, easy to make, smell nice but not overwhelming (I use a lemon dish soap, so it smells faintly citrus-y) and work well. I made my own Swiffer pads out of cheap microfiber cloths, and use the all-purpose cleaner sprayed on one of those for touch ups and spills in between mopping.


clipped on: 02.25.2011 at 09:20 am    last updated on: 02.25.2011 at 09:20 am

RE: Hanging decorative plates (Follow-Up #23)

posted by: cella on 01.12.2011 at 10:51 pm in Home Decorating Forum

Martha Stewart shows how to make your own custom-fitting hangers:

Plan on using the disc hangers linked below. I used to have a bunch of the classic wire hangers and never really liked them.

Here is a bloggers post about hanging plates:

and another bloggers post:


and last, but my favorite that I plan on copying. From "Stalking the Wheats" by Joni at her Cote de Texas blog:

Here is a link that might be useful: Disc Hangers


love the two colors of gray used to paint upper/lower cabs
clipped on: 01.13.2011 at 09:44 am    last updated on: 01.13.2011 at 09:45 am

RE: Has anyone ever....... (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: mclarke on 07.24.2011 at 03:24 pm in Home Decorating Forum

You can create your own custom color.

Ask the BM salesperson what is the "base color" for Affinity (or Atmospheric or whatever color you like). The base color is the light-colored paint they start with when they add pigment to create Affinity.

Then buy a quart of Affinity and a quart of the base color.

Take them home and play around with them. Mix up small batches and try them out on your wall. Paint at least a foot square. Look at the colors in all kinds of light... day, night, etc. Keep your mixtures in little tupperware containers. Don't mix too much at once!

When you get the color you want, paint a square of cardboard (about 6" square) that color. Take it into BM. They will put it under their color reader and mix you up a gallon (or however much you want) of your own custom color.

I've done this lots of times. It's fun.


clipped on: 07.25.2011 at 12:13 pm    last updated on: 07.25.2011 at 12:13 pm

RE: HDC chairs quality? Opinion? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: deedee99 on 01.06.2011 at 09:11 pm in Home Decorating Forum

I have not purchased them myself. I think the style would lend itself to a traditional room nicely. As for the quality, here is what the site states:

With sturdy frames, unrelenting style and soft, resilient cushions, you will enjoy the comfort and stunning appeal of these chairs for years to come. Quality crafted for years of lasting use.

Pretty vague....
Good quality furniture usually has screwed and glued hardwood frames, has corner blocks, and the foam density of the seat starts at 1.8. Since HDC is not shouting out these qualities it's probably a nice looking chair that should hold up OK with light to medium use.

May be worth an email to them for further info on construction. I didn't see fabric content either. That may be a factor in quality also.

Here is a fairly short tutorial on the basics.

Hope that helps!


Here is a link that might be useful: Furniture Basics


clipped on: 01.08.2011 at 08:45 am    last updated on: 01.08.2011 at 08:45 am

RE: Help! Dining room color woes (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: lukkiirish on 02.21.2011 at 04:09 pm in Home Decorating Forum

Try SW Tradewind it is in the family of colors you've mentioned, we have Sea Salt in one bathroom and Tradewind in the other and the Tradewind at night is not as light as Sea Salt and is not as muddy as Comfort Gray. I do have to say though that in the beginning it seemed dark but after drying completely it was perfection.

Image and video hosting by TinyPic


for vanity and wall color
clipped on: 02.22.2011 at 10:24 am    last updated on: 02.22.2011 at 10:24 am

RE: Homemade gifts, anyone? (Follow-Up #12)

posted by: ttodd on 12.30.2010 at 07:34 pm in Home Decorating Forum

This year was the first year that I made stuff. Decided we were short on money but had tons of flour, sugar, eggs etc. We also made the tags.

The kids and I made and packaged the following cookies & treats:

Peanut Butter Chocolate Cupcakes
Brown Butter Cookies
Butter Meltaways
Snicker Doodles
Rice Krispie Treats
Roly Polys
Brown Sugar Cookies

I love packaging and wrapping most so I LOVED seeing your stuff!!!!!!! Ideas for next year!

For my boss who is pregnant and no booze - 1 box of cupcakes & 1 box of cookies:

For our vet who loves unique beer (bad wrap job but hey - it was a 6 pack) & a bag of treats. 6 pack contains (sense of humor required please!):
Doggie Style Classic Pale Ale
In Heat Wheat
Old Scratch
Tire Biter
Road Dog
Snake Dog:

The rest of the wonderful Vet Staff:

Preschool Teachers & 1st grade teacher and aides all got variations of the following:

The kids and I had soooo much fun!

I ran out of canning jars and I'd wanted to also do that wonderful cinnamon honey butter. Next year!!!! Maybe w/ some home-made bread!

Thank you sharing your treats!


clipped on: 01.03.2011 at 10:17 am    last updated on: 01.03.2011 at 10:17 am

RE: Homemade gifts, anyone? (Follow-Up #38)

posted by: natal on 12.31.2010 at 05:27 pm in Home Decorating Forum

Ttodd, that packaging is so you! Very cool!

BB, I love homemade granola! Nothing like the boxed stuff. I do mine at 300 for about 30 minutes.

NHB, here's the pecan recipe.

Honey Chipotle Pecans

2 tablespoons honey
1 1/2 teaspoons chipotle powder
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
2 cups pecan halves
2 tablespoons granulated sugar
1 teaspoon sea salt

Preheat the oven to 325. In a medium microwave safe mixing bowl, combine the honey, chipotle powder, and ground cinnamon. Warm through. (You can also do this on the stove over low heat.)

Stir nuts into warmed honey mixture. Still well to coat. On a parchment paper-lined baking sheet, spread honey-coated nuts in a single layer. Bake until toasted and fragrant, about 15 minutes.

Remove from oven and allow to cool only slightly (no more than a minute or two-- you want them to still be sticky.)

Combine the sugar and salt in a small bowl. In a medium sized mixing bowl dump the hot nuts and add the sugar/salt mix tossing to combine. Spread nuts on cold waxed or parchment paper and let dry. It's best if they don't touch each other.

Serve or store covered until ready to eat.


clipped on: 01.03.2011 at 10:19 am    last updated on: 01.03.2011 at 10:19 am

RE: Hutch finally refinished! Pics and a few questions (Follow-Up #76)

posted by: juddgirl2 on 05.04.2011 at 12:31 am in Home Decorating Forum

pps - I've seen pics of your beautiful house and would trade in a heartbeat. Too many unfinished projects in mine anyway :-D

shay - I painfully scrubbed this hutch with a toothbrush and wax remover (and even acetone) several times to get rid of the wax finish. That toned it down a bit but I then bleached the wood because I initially wanted the grain to show through the glazing. If I had known I'd end up using a solid paint then I would have still needed to go through the wax removing process but wouldn't have bleached the wood.

I've used a commercial wood bleach (a powder you mix with water) on a pine piece before and that worked well but the hardware store was out of stock. I ended up using a homemade liquid drain cleaner solution found here: Homemade bleaching/aging solution

Be sure to test a small area before you do this and wear a protective mask, gloves, etc. Also, allow plenty of drying time between removing wax/bleaching and applying a new finish.


clipped on: 05.04.2011 at 08:03 am    last updated on: 05.04.2011 at 08:03 am

RE: master bedroom without freestanding furniture? (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: mary_lu on 02.07.2011 at 12:42 pm in Home Decorating Forum

we are contemplating doing the same in our guest room. We already have similar type of his and her closets in our bedroom.

Our bedroom
Cupboards we have in our laundry room are also similar
Inspiration picture for guest room. These are kitchen cupboards, but could modify/widen depth to use as closet. We have 12' ceilings in the guest room and would take the closet all the way to the ceiling. Lots of storage that way.


clipped on: 02.09.2011 at 09:28 am    last updated on: 02.09.2011 at 09:28 am

RE: My stairway photo gallery (Follow-Up #12)

posted by: blubird on 05.10.2011 at 02:38 pm in Home Decorating Forum

I've had a gallery wall like sueb20 for many years. I recently improved on mine by re-hanging all the pix with the Command picture hanging strips rather than nails. No longer do I straighten every picture each time I go up and down the steps. No longer does the dog's big tail constantly move the pictures or knock them down from the wall. Now I can easily dust the pictures without having to relevel them each time.

The Command strips are a bit of a pain to use, as you only get one chance to put the backing strips in the right location, but you can shift the pictures slightly to level them before hanging, because they are a 2 part strip with Velcro. They're also quite a bit more expensive than picture hangers or nails. Unfortunately my Michaels doesn't seem to carry many of the picture hanging strips, especially in the larger sizes so I can't buy most of them with a coupon; Target and Home Depot seem to carry a decent selection.

Next I have to redo the upstairs wall gallery with the strips.



clipped on: 05.11.2011 at 10:40 am    last updated on: 05.11.2011 at 10:41 am

RE: Now: The Whitest White for my Trim (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: dianalo on 05.20.2011 at 09:21 pm in Home Decorating Forum

BM's Super White - Cabinet Coat for trim. It always looks good, but against the darker colors, it looks even more fabulous ;)


clipped on: 05.28.2011 at 10:14 am    last updated on: 05.28.2011 at 10:14 am

Oh, another thing... (Follow-Up #31)

posted by: staceyneil on 01.22.2011 at 07:44 am in Home Decorating Forum

Another idea: if you don't want to go the totally custom route (I am not sure what your building skills are like) and build all these boxes and shelves out of plywood, consider using Ikea bookshelves as the skeleton. In my DD's smaller closet, we installed one tall, skinny Billy bookcase (like $35??) in the middle, and then added shelves and clothes rods. You can buy white melamine shelving at Home Depot and then you'll just need to make wood cleats for the shelving to sit on. You can buy extra Billy shelves for the Ikea bookcase than the ones it comes with, so you can make lots of short shelves for shoes. Here is a pic of DD's closet, below. In your closet, you could put them in the corners, then add shelves and clothes rods between. I would have done that in mine, but we have radiators along the baseboard so we had to build sturdier cases that could be mounted right to the wall :(

You can even buy cabinet doors that install on the Billy bookshelves if you want a fancier look!


clipped on: 01.22.2011 at 09:31 am    last updated on: 01.26.2011 at 09:06 am

RE: Paintable wallpaper-love? hate? tips? (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: funcolors on 03.04.2011 at 12:31 am in Home Decorating Forum

Use GARDZ before hanging it. GARDZ is the best prep for wallpaper installation -- and removal. GARDZ first and you will be able to get the stuff off when it's time.

Google for GARDZ and wallpaper for more info.


clipped on: 03.05.2011 at 10:47 am    last updated on: 03.05.2011 at 10:47 am

RE: Revere Pewter and Drop Cloth Curtains - Yum! (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: valinsv on 04.22.2011 at 12:59 am in Home Decorating Forum

loribee: I look forward to seeing your version of the drop cloth curtains. Everyone's seems to look slightly different.

awm03: I really like that shade, but not the price. If I were to go with the lamps with the shades, I could trim it in silver/gray ribbon like the one you showed.

ghostlyvision: Thanks!

bird_lover6: The panels are the Home Depot 6'x9' drop cloths with one panel per side.

trailrunner: Gosh, you're no help with the lamps! ;) I bought the drop cloths in the 6'x9' from Home Depot as from what I read on the decorating blogs they were the ones without any seams. Lo and behold, the first set I bought both had seams. I looked around a bit, but decided I like the shade and texture of the Home Depot ones best as it's more of a greige color. So, I bought 4-5 panels, opened up carefully until I found a set that I liked. Per blog instructions, I washed 2-3 times to soften them up, but did not bleach as I liked the color they were, no fabric softener or anything. I dried until slightly damp and put flat on my bed while waiting to iron out all the wrinkles. I put the rings on the rod to determine how many I wanted to use per side and decided I'd try 10 rings per side. Someone had suggested spacing them 5" apart, but I thought that'd be too many rings--with 10 per side, it amounted to 7.25" between each ring which seems to work well getting the folds the way I wanted at the top. Then I measured from the clip to the floor, subtracted about 1/4" and used that for my length. I measured in 9' direction in about 4 places, folded and pinned over the remainer, then ironed it flat. Then I placed the clip rings on the folded over side which I think the double thickness makes it a little stiffer on top to hold the folds in place. Put on the rod and arranged my folds. Really, one of the easiest and most simple WTs I've ever done.

homeagain: What part of the lamps look feminine to you? The base or the shade?

Well my preference was for the shaded lamps. I first bought the desk lamps, but got some feedback that they were meant more for a desk than bedside so I started looking for something else. I didn't want anything that looks too feminine and have been looking around for a fairly simple black base with a drum type of shade. These were about the best I could come up with in my price range--most lamps seem to be either ORB or nickel. The ORB ones I felt clashed with the black rod and I wasn't too sure how nickel would look with the rod either. I'm open to suggestions, though, as long as it's not more than $70/lamp. I've checked Home Decorators, JC Penneys, Lowes, and Target.


clipped on: 04.22.2011 at 10:26 am    last updated on: 04.22.2011 at 10:26 am

RE: Screened-in porch advice? (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: juliekcmo on 06.11.2011 at 05:14 pm in Home Decorating Forum

Advice I got from my contractor when he did his own screened porch.

Underneath the deck, add screening to the bottom side of the floor. This keeps mosquitos from entering the porch through the cracks in the floor boards.

Our existing screened porch that was original to the home has a concrete floor. About 10 years ago we removed the screens and in their place installed slider windows that are removable, and that have full screens. And we added indoor/outdoor flooring, damp UL rated ceiling fan, and electric baseboard heat. Now we have a true 4 season room.


clipped on: 06.12.2011 at 11:05 am    last updated on: 06.12.2011 at 11:06 am

RE: Skylights or solar tube? (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: sandra_zone6 on 03.14.2011 at 04:24 pm in Home Decorating Forum

I purchased ours from The Skylight Guys - do a google search. At the time, we just could not afford the name brand ones; glad now that we never spent that much for them. There are many other online resources, this is just the one I used, in no way affiliated with them and my purchase was probably about 6 or 8 years ago.

This is going back quite a few years, but I had emailed them pictures of the areas, dimensions and they responded back with recommended sizes. I went with a single 18" without light kit for over the stairs; this lights up my front entrance and stairway. In the hallway and bathroom, I have 2 13" and these were both purchased with a light kit. Check out the online store, they are not expensive for the light kits and well worth it. We used to have can lights in those locations, so we got rid of them and installed the tubes. Same in the bathroom.

We have the prism curved lens and I use CFL bulbs in these tubes. I have not been happy with the longevity of CFL lights, but in the tubes they seem to last forever for whatever reason. We did have to buy extra tubes to go through the attic. All of our roof domes are on the back side of our house so no affect to curb appeal.

These have absolutely no cons to them, IMO, and my only wish is I had installed more; particularly in our closets.


clipped on: 06.05.2011 at 10:59 am    last updated on: 06.05.2011 at 10:59 am

Thank You Nanny and Beagles!!! (Follow-Up #15)

posted by: lynninnewmexico on 01.20.2011 at 05:04 pm in Home Decorating Forum

I think this must be a triple post for me, but I had to pop back in to say a huge THANK YOU to Beagles and Nanny for the great revolving shoe tree idea and to share the one I found over on Amazon. They carry the four-tier/ 18-pair one that Nanny has and also (be still my heart!) a six-tier/ 36 pair one for $64.93. Finding an innovative, practical way to store all our shoes has been one of the main reasons I've never finished a closet design for us. I know that it may not work for everyone, but this THE perfect design solution for us! Now I just need to find the perfect sweater/tee shirt and purse storage ideas (for our closet) and I'm finally good to go!

Please keep all you closet ideas coming, as I'm sure I'm not the only one out there searching for ideas that'll work for me.
Have I mentioned lately how much I LOVE this forum??????
Lynn :~)


clipped on: 01.26.2011 at 08:44 am    last updated on: 01.26.2011 at 08:44 am

RE: Updating,renew, just nn help w/ cabinets (pics) (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: jillinnj on 02.02.2011 at 05:45 pm in Home Decorating Forum

I have similar cabinets in the hall bathroom. I used the beadboard wallpaper. Then painted that and those fake wood parts the same creamy white color, and added handles. I love how it turned out and it was very inexpensive (wallpaper was about $20). It has held up well in the bathroom. I am not sure, however, how it would hold up in a kitchen, but if it is a vacation/part time home, it might be ok.

Here is a poor quality picture from my cell phone:


clipped on: 02.03.2011 at 09:26 am    last updated on: 03.08.2011 at 12:13 pm

RE: Upholstered Headboard--Anyone make one? (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: julies_kitchen on 02.24.2011 at 11:52 am in Home Decorating Forum

When you said you were going for a glam type look, I thought of this DIY headboard I saw a while ago. I think the wood frame around the outside adds a little something extra.


Unfortunately, I can't find the blog it was on for the directions...

If you're going for glam, though, those headboards at Urban Outfitters are pretty cool!


clipped on: 02.27.2011 at 10:26 am    last updated on: 02.27.2011 at 10:26 am

Wallpapered Stair risers - Part II

posted by: laurainlincoln on 03.31.2011 at 06:30 pm in Home Decorating Forum

So about 6 months ago - I painstakingly wallpapered my stair risers - and loved them. After only 3 short months of enjoyment - my son accidentally kicked my super jumbo cup of coffee all the way down the stairs (yes, I definitely should NOT have left it there, I had set it down quickly one morning to help my other son in the bathroom...sigh.) Even though the wallpaper was polyurethaned, it was decidedly ruined. :(

I kept hoping I would stop noticing the brown streaks when I went up the stairs! I could not get motivated to tackle this project again. But then I fell in love with this intense wallpaper from Anthropologie and it gave me the kick in the behind I needed to motivate. It is a different approach with a little crazier paper. I know this is not for most folks, but thought I would share.

Anyone else find something recently that finally got you motivated to take on that tedious, time-consuming project?

PS No beverages at the top of the stairs from now on! :-)

Before the Venti Starbucks
I - DIY painted wallpapered stairs.



clipped on: 05.01.2011 at 11:29 am    last updated on: 05.01.2011 at 11:29 am

RE: Where do you 'hide' your printer, wireless router, etc? (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: bonniee on 02.03.2011 at 03:33 pm in Home Decorating Forum

My printer is on the right looking into the picture and router is right beside computer screen on top pushed up against bookcase so not in full sight so much. Right beside the lamp. When we bought the computer hutch, my husband measured the space and bought me a printer to fit the space. Good luck with your area! The mother board thing is right under the printer in that cabinet. I feel your pain as mine was in sight before this hutch organizer. Bonnie

gift wrapping station & computer area


clipped on: 02.04.2011 at 08:26 am    last updated on: 02.04.2011 at 08:27 am

Banquette in this dining space?

posted by: funkyart on 10.08.2012 at 06:14 am in Home Decorating & Design Forum

I will be moving into my grandmother's home and updating/modernizing. I want to go with what I am going to call a clean modern cottage kind of look in the kitchen/dining area. Part of this change in my life is my desire to simplify and downsize.. however, this means giving up a true dining room. As such, I'd like the eat-in kitchen area to be stylish and inviting.

I will not be updating the kitchen in the immediate future. It is VERY much in need of a complete update/remodel, but I want to live in the space for a bit before jumping on the project. I can't wait to start on the dining space though-- as I gave my antique dining set to my nephew who just set up his first house. I am currently shopping for dining furniture.

This is the dining area. Please ignore everything but the space-- we're in the process of clearing out the house and then everything will be redone (new paint, hardwood floors, etc). The kitchen is to the left, door to the outside to the right, this area opens into the living room.
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This is my inspiration photo. I've saved a number of banquet photos but this is the one that works best for my space and most captures the look I'd like.
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LOVE the lighting and the feel of this space. I would like to have the built-in as in the photo but I will need to accommodate the base board heating... and whatever I do must be compatible with the kitchen remodel in a year or so (I do know I will do painted cabinets).

Do you think this design makes sense for the space? I know it isnt optimal for the only dining space in the house but this is something I've had to accept (generally, there will only be one or two dining. Large gatherings will be held outside). As I said, I'd prefer the built in bench with storage but given that the kitchen remodel won't begin for awhile, do you think I should go with a bench or church pew instead?

All thoughts welcome! Do you like your banquette seating? Is there something I should consider before making my primary dining space a banquette?

My carpenter is doing some other work for me at the end of the month.. so I'd like to include this with his work if I am settled on a built-in bench.


Ikea cabinets
clipped on: 10.09.2012 at 08:42 am    last updated on: 10.09.2012 at 08:47 am

RE: Decorating with black & off-white toile (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: luvbydesign on 11.11.2012 at 01:03 pm in Home Decorating & Design Forum

I just came across this topic and would like to share.

Black and white (or black & off-white) toile is an absolutely refined and elegant's never, ever boring.

A nice wall color is French Putty, with the trim done in French White.

The toile pattern looks best in these areas;

a) behind the bed as bed hanging draperies
b) dust ruffle
c) an accent chair or ottoman
d) skirted vanity or table
e) pelmets on the window

The bedding (bedspread, quilt or duvet cover & small pillows)looks best in solid white (or off-white)single color.

Draperies in the same solid white

Add to the room...

A nice French Mantle painted in the same white, with a gorgeous large Venetian Mirror over it. Place Crystal & Sterling decorative pieces on the mantle.
Create a small seating area around this mantle, preferably with French Oval back chair upholstered in White and add small trow pillows made from the Toile.

Add a small white rug somewhere in the room.

Add a triple frameles floor mirror in the corner of the room.

You have a gorgeous room!!


clipped on: 11.12.2012 at 08:04 am    last updated on: 11.12.2012 at 08:05 am

New Rug, New Inspiration, New Paint, New Pictures....

posted by: tinker_2006 on 06.16.2012 at 11:32 am in Home Decorating & Design Forum

Old 1937 house we have been restoring for the past year. Moved in 4 months ago, and took a break, but I'm back trying to complete a few more areas!

This house is so sunny, and bright.. I just adore it, even with all the work that we still face. My other house that I have owned, were always more in the darker golden, green colors, but I feel like a change, and this house just looks and feels right with lighter, airy colors (IMHO).

So, I bought a new area rug for the dining room, I'm trying to incorporate some light gray blue colors into the rooms, (blue is a color which I never-ever used before this house). The rug border is more of a gray aqua... and a few days go, I started to finish painting the kitchen which was started a yellow-sagey pale green. But I decided to run out and get a new color! I bought BM Silver Crest.. and I just LOVE it. Not sure if the pictures show how nice the colors, but it is so much "fresher" and brighter... Honest opinions and thoughts are fine (but I'm not repainting! lol :)







clipped on: 07.03.2012 at 08:43 am    last updated on: 07.03.2012 at 08:43 am

RE: hypertufa project (Follow-Up #10)

posted by: coll_123 on 06.25.2013 at 10:05 pm in Hosta Forum

Here is my fountain, which is really getting green from algae...have to go try to scrub it down.

 photo fountain_zpsc749a106.jpg

I started with hypertufa by making was a good project to do in the early Spring.

After we lost a big tree in 2010, I knew I wanted to put two semi circular retaining walls up on the hill where the tree was to plant more hostas. But palettes of stones are expensive, and I am a very bad stone stacker, so I didn't trust I could build a structurally sound one. So I brainstormed a way to do it out of hypertufa, sort of. I first made a mold to cast a form- sort of a curved, zig zag shape piece that would stack. I cast the form, which is styrofoam with about a half inch of concrete around it, and a hole up the middle for rebar to go later. Then, on the face of the shape, I applied and sculpted hypertufa to look like a stacked stone wall. I was happy with the end result, and best of all, they were light enough for me to lift and stacked neatly. My father in law helped me install them and he pounded vertical rebar rods into the ground that go into the holes to make extra sure this thing stays put.

Here is the area with tape indicating where I wanted the tiers to go
 photo newbed_zpscdfe5d7b.jpg

Here are a couple of the can see the shape of them...they were sort of interlocking
 photo fakerocks2_zps810706b3.jpg

this is in process. I used a row of real stones on top. In the background is a real stone wall, so I wanted to try to match that.
 photo rockwall3_zps3405dff6.jpg

This is how the two tiers look now...the ferns obscure the lower one and the hostas are starting to obscure the upper a lot of work for nothing, lol. Well, you can see my faux stone wall in the early spring, anyway.
 photo upperbedjune4_zps09287e07.jpg

I had a couple blocks left over so I made this small curved bed. Again the top row are real rocks and the rest is carved tufa.
 photo smallwall_zps5bcb023a.jpg

I have another recent project to share, which I'll do in the next post...


clipped on: 09.24.2014 at 01:55 pm    last updated on: 09.24.2014 at 01:55 pm

2RE: Cabinet color: BM Mayonnaise and/or BM Linen White (Follow-Up #10)

posted by: positano on 08.14.2009 at 11:30 am in Kitchens Forum

This is one of my favorite kitchens from rate my space. She used Linen white for all the trim, looks so soothing. Here is a link.

Here is a link that might be useful: Rate my space LW kitchen


clipped on: 01.17.2011 at 10:56 am    last updated on: 01.17.2011 at 10:56 am

Design Around 9: Keeping the Golden Oak

posted by: cawaps on 12.17.2011 at 11:26 pm in Kitchens Forum

Since many people have time off over the holidays, we thought that now would be a good time to tackle a topic we have been talking at for a while: How do you make golden oak look good?

This is a common design problem faced by kitchen remodelers. Golden Oak was ubiquitous in the 1980s, and now many people are facing the choice of whether to replace these cabs or remodel around them--and many of the cabinets are still in good shape.

The color of golden oak is challenging, with color ranging from pinkish through orange to golden. I've seen many kitchens that try to pair the oak with neutrals, but it can be difficult to find neutrals with the right undertones to really work (Palimpsest calls it the problem of uncorrellated neutrals).

After much discussion, we chose specific doors as the basis for the exercise so everyone will be facing the same color challenge. The idea is to make the color work, so no painting, no staining (even though these are the more common choice in real life).

While someone keeping their cabinets probably doesn't have a big budget, I think this exercise is already challenging enough, so no explicit budget restrictions.

Here are the cabs. These are Kraftmaid oak doors in Honey Spice. You can use either the square or the arched panel; both were very common.


clipped on: 07.18.2012 at 12:42 pm    last updated on: 07.18.2012 at 12:42 pm

RE: Design Around This #4: Formica Patterns are coooool! (Follow-Up #36)

posted by: GreenDesigns on 11.21.2011 at 12:40 pm in Kitchens Forum

Pal, I love those blue cabinets and green range. It's an intensely traditional vibe, but updated. I just don't think laminate "works" with that kitchen though, given the level of the rest of the materials. I think a quiet green granite or quartz would be at home though. Your other kitchens are perfection, as usual.

Capaws, the butter yellow and taupe is almost too sophisticated for a cabin in the Sierras. It's main house material to me! Especially with those lights. They pull a little formal for a cabin. It is a peaceful and restful vibe and the pattern you chose does work visually.

To me, laminate is about cheap and fun. If you want to play it safe for the next 15 years, there are plenty more materials to choose from. It's not "disposable". But it is a lot less serious. Look at the Europeans and their relationship with laminate. It's a favored material for cabinets there because of the ability to print darn near anything on laminate and have it be a decent wear surace. Just look at this interior door in a laminate design.

And this sliding closet door in laminate with a print.

This is what you can do with laminate!

And yes, you can still do "wood" laminates more affordably than the real thing and still have it look great.

Because of it's whimsy, I think my favorite kitchen in this is Live Wire's wild kitsch one. Who couldn't smile every day coming home to flamingos! For those that think the rose counter is a little much, what about Molten Glass Blue instead?

Cawaps turquoise and lime Ikea kitchen is also fun and low budget. It also makes me smile.

The kitchens with the broadest appeal, meaning interesting but neutral, would have to be Sochi's's, Pal's Neutral Beluga, Live Wire's second kitchen, and Cawap's yellow and tan one. That's not meant as either complimentary or critical. Just factual. Neutrals appeal to a lot of people, but it's harder than most think to make their house work in neutrals. These kitchens get neutrals right, although some secondary soft color is used in 3 out of the 4. I debated on terming the other grey Beluga kitchens as neutrals and decided that because the green was a bit more intense and present than the grey, they didn't qualify as "neutral", even though they work well. And although Kode's kitchen is also technically nothing but neutrals, it scares me. :) It has great cohesion and plenty of interesting choices, but I think that kitchen is waiting on it's first blood sacrifice to become sentient!


clipped on: 11.27.2011 at 11:04 am    last updated on: 11.27.2011 at 11:04 am

RE: Everything I Wanted to Know About Drawers... (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: angela12345 on 02.02.2013 at 02:03 pm in Kitchens Forum

I have posted this other places before, but I am going to try to consolidate it *all* in one place.

My kitchen cabinets from UltraCraft are semi-custom. LOVE them. They are Frameless cabinets that allow size modifications in 1/16" increments to height, width, and depth (or all 3) at no additional cost. So, have deeper base cabinets. Go ahead and make your uppers 13" or 14" deep for those extra large mixing/salad bowls and charger plates, and maximize your storage space for example storing glasses 4 deep instead of 3 deep and storing cereal bowls 2 deep instead of only 1 deep. Make your toekick slightly shorter so you have an extra inch or two for more drawers height. Cut down on the fillers you need by making your cabinets the exact width you need them, instead of being forced to choose from 3" increments. No extra charge ! I like that all my uppers are flat across the bottom (no frame/dividers between cabinets), so I could install one long plugmold and one long under cabinet light, then hide it all with lightrail at the front. Also, standard is Blum full extension soft close drawer glides, soft close doors, no charge for finished sides (like end of cabinet run), all dovetail drawers with fully captured bottoms, and bunches of other stuff is standard. 100 year warranty. WOW. Yep, I LOVE them !!!

Cabinet Decisions - I emailed this part to a friend recently, so am copying here ...
1. One of the first things to decide is what cabinet door overlay you want. Inset doors or overlay doors ? Inset doors sit inside of the cabinet box frame rather than attached to the front of the cabinet box. Overlay is further broken down into traditional overlay, partial / modified overlay, and full overlay and determines how much of the cabinet box/frame behind the door you want to show (traditional overlay shows the most of the cabinet box & frame, full overlay shows the least). The hinges can be exposed or concealed for all overlay styles except full overlay which only allows for concealed hinges. The overlay you choose will automatically knock out some cabinet options and cabinet mfgs who may not make that type of cabinet. (My cabinets are full overlay)
See ...
And ...

2. Then you want to decide on the cabinet boxes ... framed or frameless ? Some mfgs only make one or the other, but not both, so this will knock out other mfgs. Framed cabinets have a frame on the face of the cabinet box that the doors attach to and allows for inset doors as well as all 3 overlay styles (traditional, partial, and full overlay). On frameless, the doors attach directly to the cabinet box sides instead of a face frame. Frameless are typically full overlay, but inset is also possible although not very common. I think a small partial overlay is possible on frameless if you are using semi-custom or custom cabinets - you would order slightly smaller doors so a little of the cabinet box would show. Traditional overlay is not possible on frameless because the cabinet box sides are not wide enough to show the traditional 1"-2" of the face frame. (My cabinets are frameless)
See ... BOX - construction.asp

The disadvantage of framed is you give up useable space in drawers/pullouts and ease of access on cabinets with doors. This is because the drawer or pullout has to clear the face frame that goes around the opening, so they are narrower from side to side and also shallower from top to bottom. In a small kitchen, the extra useable space from frameless could make a big difference. Estimates say frameless gives 10-15% more space, so 100 inches of framed would be 110 inches in frameless. To me, an extra 10 inches of drawer space is huge, especially when you don't have much to begin with !! Frameless cabinets with doors also offer easier access - there is no face frame creating a 1-2" obstruction on the left, right, and top inside the cabinet doors, also there is typically no center stile between double doors in frameless.

For full overlay doors, there is very little difference in the looks of framed vs frameless. From an exterior appearance standpoint, these cabinets will basically look alike. Because the doors are full overlay, you don't see much or any of the frame and would have to open the door or drawer to see if the cabinet was framed or frameless. For inset doors, the framed cabinets would have a wider frame around the door than the frameless cabinet would.

In the below two pics, the cabinet on the left is framed, on the right is frameless. Looking only at the size of the opening, see how the drawer for frameless is wider from left to right and also has more open space from top to bottom. The useable drawer space is a couple inches more in each direction in the frameless. If they both had the same size full overlay exterior drawer face on them, they would look alike from the exterior. You would not be able to see the useable interior space until you opened the drawer.

  framed . . . . . . . . . . frameless
As catbuilder said, the useable space for inset would be the same, depending on which you use. In other words, it doesn't matter if the framed cabinet above on the left had overlay or inset, the actual drawer space would be the same no matter what door style was used on the framed cabinet. The inset is set into the face frame. Similarly, if the frameless on the right had overlay or inset, the actual drawer space would be the same for that cabinet. If they both had inset doors, you can see that the framed cabinets would have a much wider "frame" around the door and drawer openings.
examples of inset ...

Inset in a framed cabinet box on left - inset door in a frameless box in middle - and inset with door and drawers in a frameless cabinet on right

3. The third thing to consider is the cosmetics ... the door style you like (slab, raised panel, recessed panel, arched top, etc), the drawer style (slab/flat/plain drawer front or drawer front that matches your door style), as well as wood species (cherry, oak, maple, etc), and stain or paint colors, glazing, distressing, finish/sheen, etc. (My cabinets are slab drawer, raised panel door, cherry with a chestnut stain, no additional finishes or glazes. My granite is Black Pearl.)
This website shows just a few of the different door styles available ... DOOR - style.asp

4. The fourth thing to consider is stock cabinets vs semi-custom vs custom cabinet mfgs. Stock cabinets are available in 3" width increments (cabinets have to be width of 12", 15", 18", etc), filler strips fill in gaps between cabinets and wall or appliances, you have to choose from the heights and depths they offer, and there are very few options available, which can be pretty pricey to add on. Semi-custom cabinets vary by manufacturer in what customizations and options they offer, but they offer many more options than stock and allow sizing modifications. With custom cabinets, there should be no limitations ... including drawings for non-standard items, custom molding profiles, door styles, alternate wood species, custom stains & finishes, construction, accessories and options. (My cabinets are semi-custom)

5. Finally, you want to consider the cabinet construction. Not that this is the least important ! It is one of the most important things. Pretty much all the other stuff is just the "pretty" stuff, LOL. This has to do with how well the cabinets are made - are the drawers stapled, dowelled, glued, dovetail ? What materials are the cabinets made of ? Solid wood face frames, door frames, door fronts, drawers ? Corner braces ? How thick are the sides, rear, drawers, shelving ? Warranty ? What hardware do they use (full extension glides/soft close) ? etc, etc.

Drawer depths (front to back dimension)
My bases are all 24" deep bases. The interior of the cabinet box is 23.25" deep (because of back wall panel). The drawer boxes are all 21" from front to back with 19.75" useable interior.

I'm pretty sure I could have (and definitely should have!) requested the drawers be an extra 1-2 inches deep to more fully use the inside of the cabinet box. I *think* the full extension glides would not have pulled out that extra inch or so, but I could have lived with that !! I was already used to my drawers not pulling out for the back 4 inches anyway with the cabinets I already had. I could have fit my 8qt stock pots 2 deep front to back in the drawer instead of having to offset them slightly in the drawer if I had even an extra 1/2".

Some people choose to have their base cabinets deeper (i.e. 27-30" deep instead of 24" deep standard) from front to back for a number of different reasons, for example to make the front of the cabinet even with the front of the refrigerator so the standard fridge looks like a built in/counter depth fridge. Or they may want a larger countertop work surface. This can be accomplished two ways - by using deeper base cabinets or by using standard 24" deep bases and installing them a few inches out from the wall then covering the full space with the countertop material. If you want to do this and order deeper bases, be sure to specify the drawers are deeper from front to back as well ! Some mfgs will still only install the standard depth drawer even though the cabinet box is ordered larger.
(in pics below, my two standard $500 ea fridges look counter depth by recessing the wall behind the fridges only)

Drawer Heights
You can get a number of different drawer height combinations ... for example two drawer could be 6-24 or 15-15, three drawer could be 6-12-12 or 6-9-15, four drawer could be 6-6-6-12 or 6-6-9-9 or even 6.5-6.5-6.5-10.5, five drawer could be 6-6-6-6-6. These are just a few examples of size combinations !! I have even seen linens in 8 shallow pullouts behind doors in one base cabinet.

The height of my drawer fronts do not line up all the way around the 4 sides of my kitchen, but do line up when you are looking at any one section at a time. I have 2 stacks together that are 6-12-12 separated by a stove. On the opposite corner of the kitchen are 2 stacks that are 6-6-9-9. What helps is that my stacks are caddy-cornered across the kitchen with appliances and base cabinets with doors separating them ... it would be very hard to look in any direction where you could see the "mis-matches" at one time. Some people have drawer stacks right next to each other where the drawer heights do not 'line up' and others have all the drawer bases in their entire kitchen the same so the drawers line up all the way around for a continuous horizontal line.

My one advice ... find out the interior useable height of your drawers ahead of time. My Ultracraft cabinets are frameless so have more interior height than framed would. They have undermount glides. You want to know how much clearance you have from the floor of the drawer up to the next drawer or the stile between the drawers (or interior cross brace if there is one).

On the 6-12-12 stacks, my useable interior drawer height/clearance is 4, 10.5, 9.5 (top to bottom on stack). Where this becomes an issue ... I wanted to store all of my pans, pots, etc vertical on their edges in the drawers so I wouldn't have to have my pots/pans stacked inside each other. The middle 10.5" drawers are tall enough for all of the casserole/baking dishes and pie tins, the roasting pan, and almost all of the pans, pots, and lids to stand on edge (the 9.5" drawers are not tall enough for a couple of those items to stand on edge). Both height drawers are definitely tall enough for all of the big pots (even the 8qt stockpot) that I own, except for the huge "canning" pot which is on the top shelf of one of my 15" deep uppers.

Obviously, neither drawer is tall enough for my 12" pans/skillets to stand on edge (arrggh!). I have really been struggling with how to store these. Right now I have them flat in the bottom of the 9.5" height bottom drawer. Big waste of real estate !! I wish I had a shallower drawer I could put the big skillets in, like 6-6-6-12 so the frying pans were flat in drawers 2 & 3 and the pots were in the bottom drawer. Or even better(?!) if I had made my drawer heights 6-9-15 that would have given me 4, 7.5, 12.5 clearance. My tallest 8qt pots are 7" tall, so all of them could have gone in the middle drawer and everything on edge could have gone in the bottom drawer (including the 12" skillets!). Google for images of drawers with pans on edge. I have included some at the bottom of this post.

On the other side of the kitchen with the 6-6-9-9 stacks, the useable interior drawer height/clearance is 4, 4.75, 6.75, 7 (top to bottom). I use the top 6" drawers all around the kitchen for silverware, spatulas and all the other kitchen gadgets, in-drawer knife block, foil wax paper cling wrap and plastic baggies, potholders, dish towels, etc. All of those things fit with no problem in these drawers including the ladle and the box grater. The 3rd drawer holds all of the tupperware and is the perfect height for this - 6 would have been too shallow and 12 would have been too deep. The bottom drawer is where we currently keep the paper and plastic grocery bags until we carry them for recycling.

(note: the interior drawer heights listed above vary slightly for the bottom two 12" drawers, the top two 6" drawers, and for the bottom two 9" drawers because of an interior cross support and space to clear the granite without scraping at the top. Jakuvall addresses this below "Note that some brands use intermediate stretchers in frameless which take up 3/4" vertical clearance. If they do I always spec them to be removed.")

ALSO: the drawer face to interior useable space ratio will be DIFFERENT depending on if your drawer face is inset, partial overlay, or full overlay, and depending on if you have undermount glides or sidemount glides as catbuilder says above. For example on my 6-6-9-9 four drawer stack ... 1.5" counter + 6 + 6 + 9 + 9 + 4.5" toekick = 36" finished height to top of counter. My useable heights are 4, 4.75, 6.75, 7 = 22.5" total useable height. I lose 1.25-2.25" useable height for each drawer.
Compare to quiltgirl above inset drawers ... 1.5" counter + 5.5 + 5.5 + 6.25 + 6.25 + 4.5 toekick (assumed) = 29.5". Are her cabinets shorter than mine ? No ! Add in between each of her drawers approx 1.25" face frame to come up with the full 36" to top of counter. She has undermount glides as well so her useable heights are 4, 4, 4.75, 4.75 = 17.5" total useable height. She only loses 1.5" useable height for each drawer face showing so it sounds like she is losing less, compared to my loss of 1.25-2.25" each. But she is also losing useable height in the face frame between each drawer which is why her total useable space is less.
This is FINE !! Nothing at all against her cabinets. They will be beautiful. Inset is a gorgeous look. And she knew she was going to lose space with the inset when she chose them, but chose to do it because inset is the look she loves.

Drawer widths
The maximum cabinet width my manufacturer will do for drawer bases is 36" wide. I have 4 drawer bases at 21", 32", 17", and 36" wide. The interior useable width of these drawer bases are 18, 29, 14, 33 wide, so 3" less than the exterior width in each. I went with the widest drawer bases that would fit in each spot.

 photo 4-5-11-kitchen.jpg
Going around my kitchen ... first I have a 6" wide pullout broom closet. Next are two 30" wide fridge/top freezers. There are full depth cabinets above the fridges with an adjustable shelf. Then a 24" full height cabinet with pantry space at the top, MW, a single oven, and 6" high drawer under oven (4.5" useable height).

The 21" wide 3 drawer 6-12-12 with useable interior heights of 4, 10.5, 9.5 is to the left of my stove. Top drawer holds in drawer knife block, sharpener, scissors, trivets, potholders. 2nd drawer holds casserole/baking/pie dishes on their edge. Bottom drawer is basically empty - it has one 8qt stockpot. If my drawer heights had been 6-9-15 instead (did I say grrrr?), I would have used the middle drawer as a bread drawer and stored the bakeware on edge in the bottom drawer. The 9.5" interior height on the bottom drawers are not tall enough for a couple of those items to stand on edge.

Next is the stove (Whirlpool GGE388LXS Smoothtop Electric Range w/Double ovens).
This stove is now available with an induction top(!) which is what I would have gotten if it had been available at the time WGI925C0BS[WGI925C0BS]-1021750/WGI925C0BS/

The 32" wide 3 drawer 6-12-12 with useable interior heights of 4, 10.5, 9.5 is to the right of the stove. Top drawer holds spatulas, spoons, ladles, wood spoons, basting brushes, meat thermometer, etc - things that are used at the stove. 2nd drawer holds frying pans, the smaller pots (1qt 2qt 3qt), and lids all on their edges. Bottom drawer holds 8qt pots. Also, the 12" skillets with lids, splatter screens, and griddle are all stacked in one stack flat in bottom of drawer, Grrrrrrr. If they were on their edges in the drawer with the other frying pans instead of taking up real estate here, that lone 8qt pot in my other cabinet would have been here with the other pots.

Turn the corner and next is the first dishwasher and then a 36" sink base with Ticor S405D sink (70/30 double bowl) 16 guage stainless. LOVE !!! <3
This sink configuration is sooooo useful. The big side is 19x21.5x9 (23" diagonal) big enough for everything to lay flat in the bottom - cookie sheets, the broiler pan, my largest skillet with the extra long handle & a helper handle on the other side, the enormous canning/crab pot, etc, and its big & deep so the dirty dishes are hidden from view until its time to wash or go in DW. Then I also have the smaller right hand sink that is 16x10.5 perfect for washing dishes, the water fills up fast, & it's even big enough for my 8qt pots to fit in (single sinks take forever even to just get an inch or two of water over the grate, but with the double I can use the small side). When it's just a few things, I like to wash in the small side and lay out on the sink grid in the large side to drain. If it's more than a few items, they go in one of the dishwashers. And as a bonus ... both of the sink grids fit in the dishwasher ! No scrubbing those grid intersections by hand.

(I didn't have a straight down shot of my sink, above right is Buehl's sink)
You can get a sink with the same dimensions from MR Direct (models 509L or 509R)

Turn the corner and next is a 36" wide all door base cabinet (no upper drawer) with full depth adjustable shelves. I use this base cabinet for all my small appliances - blender, beaters, toaster, George Foreman, elec can opener, elec skillet, crockpot, etc. Next to this base cabinet is the second dishwasher, followed by an 18" prep sink base with a Ticor S815 14x15x8 sink, and an empty space for an ice maker which is where the trash can currently resides.

The 17" wide 4 drawer stack 6-6-9-9 with useable interior heights of 4, 4.75, 6.75, 7 sits between the trash area/future ice maker and the peninsula and is on the opposite corner of the kitchen from the other drawer bases. The top drawer holds foil, wax paper, cling wrap, plastic baggies, chip clips, and restaurant menus. The 2nd drawer is our "junk" drawer and has some of everything including screwdrivers, clothespins, matches, flashlights, sewing kit, lint brush, etc. The 3rd drawer holds medicine, bandaids, alcohol, peroxide, as well as dish towels and plastic utensils from takeout restaurants in a tub. The bottom drawer is for "tupperware without partners" - bowls and lids with no matches (haha!).

The 36" wide 4 drawer stack 6-6-9-9 with useable interior heights of 4, 4.75, 6.75, 7 forms the peninsula. The top drawer holds all eating utensils (silverware and kid utensils), serving utensils, chopsticks, handheld can opener, wine opener in a strategically easy-to-access location : ), etc. The 2nd drawer holds all the other kitchen gadgets that aren't to the left and right of the stove like shrimp deveiners, graters, whisks, rolling pin, pizza rolling cutter-thingy, mashers, salad tongs, etc, etc. The 3rd drawer holds tupperware with their matching lids. As I said above, it is the perfect height for this - 6 would have been too shallow and 12 would have been too deep. The bottom drawer holds paper and plastic grocery bags until we carry them for recycling.

I don't like lazy susans or corner cabinets, so in the blind corner between the 17" and 36" drawer stacks is a 26" all door base cabinet that opens out the backside to where the barstools sit.

Weight of Drawer Contents
I will come back and fill this in later

ROTS = Roll Out Tray Shelves, a.k.a. pullout shelves. As a general rule of thumb, I think drawers are better than ROTS. A ROTS pullout is just a drawer behind a door. With drawers, you just pull to open; with ROTS you have to open one or two doors, pull out the shelf, then to close push the tray back in, wait for it to close completely, then close the drawers. Sometimes you may ding your door hitting it on the ROTS, the doors have to be opened fully to be able to access it, and the shelf has to be pushed in fully to be able to close the door(s). With ROTS, sometimes things will fall off or over the shallow sides. With some manufacturers, cabinet with doors and ROTS may cost more than one with drawers. However, most ROTS are adjustable; drawers are not. But with planning and/or organizers you can do almost anything with/in them

Upper Cabinets
I will come back and fill in more on this in later
You can maximize your storage space in the kitchen by making your upper cabinets a little deeper ... from 13"-15" or more. I have some upper cabinets in my kitchen that are the standard 12" deep and others that are 15" deep. There are 4 items that will not fit in my 12" deep uppers so I am forced to keep them in the 15" deep uppers, even though the 12" cabinets are a more convenient location for those items. Also, my iced tea glasses will only fit 3 deep in the 12" cabinets, but will fit 4 deep in the 15" cabinets, with room to spare. The cereal bowls also fit 2 stacks deep in the 15" cabinets.

Over your fridge, have extra deep cabinets. The front of my fridge is even with the edge of my base cabinets and I ordered the uppers over it to come out as deep as the fridge & base cabinets. These uppers have one adjustable shelf.

Another thing I recommend is getting extra shelves for your cabinets. I have my lowest two shelves closest together, then the higher shelves a little further apart. The bottom 2 shelves hold things that are not very tall ... coffee cups, plates, short glasses, measuring cups, etc. This makes the bottom shelves very easy to reach, and the higher shelves are easier to reach as well because they aren't quite as high up. I'm only 5'2" and can pretty easily reach items on the 3rd shelf up in all of my cabinets. When you have your shelves as close together as they can be for the items you want to store there, you could very easily end up with a tall space leftover at the top of the cabinet. That's when an extra shelf or two would be great to store those seldom used items way up at the top. My cabinets are 42" tall and all have 4-6 shelves of storage.

left side of kitchen
6" wide broom pullout
2 cabinets over fridges 30.75w x 26h x 24d (wall recessed behind fridges, not cabinets)
1 full height cabinet 24w x 97.5h x 24d
1 cabinet 21w x 42h x 12d
30 wide hood
1 cabinet 7.5w x 42h x 12d
1 cabinet 40.5w x 42h x 12d
1 cabinet 15w x 42h x 12d

right side of kitchen
1 cabinet 39w x 42h x 12d
2 cabinets 39w x 45h x 15d
1 cabinet 36w x 42h x 12d with glass doors & 6"h wine rack at bottom

Handles / Knobs / Pulls
I know this is a subject that causes a lot of angst to people ... should you do all knobs, all handles, latches, mixed knobs & pulls, vertical or horizontal mount, all same size or mix sizes, mixing styles & finish, where to mount on the drawer/door face, etc ???

Here's what we did ... we went with the same size handle for all of our drawers and also only one handle in the center for all of the drawers, no matter what the width of the drawer. They are all 4" wide pulls. We maybe would have used different widths for the wider drawers, but the ones we liked in the finish we wanted did not come in a bunch of widths. The cabinet guy said they would look fine and they do. We have slab drawer fronts and the pulls are centered top to bottom and side to side on each drawer. We used round knobs on all doors.

What I have found in the bazillion of kitchens posted on GW is there is no right way or wrong way. I have never seen a kitchen where I thought the handle choices someone made looked odd or bad. It's one of those things where they all look good.

Drawer Organizers
We ordered the drawer divider channels from Lee Valley so we could completely customize our drawer interiors. They often have free shipping on orders over $40.
Google for images - lots of gardenweb members have used these.

Take inventory of the things you will be storing in the drawers & doors. Plan it into the zones they will go in. Measure all of it and plan ahead how they will be stored (drawers/upper cabinets). You don't want tin foil or potholders to end up in the bottom of a tall drawer. And, you should know by now how I feel about my large skillets and too short of a drawer. ; ) From the FAQs that Buehl put together ...
Excellent information on organizing !!

These are not my cabinets ... examples of pans stored vertically ...

Other ideas for vertical storage ...

This is my kitchen ...
 photo 4-5-11-kitchen.jpg
A note on our kitchen ... this home is a vacation rental Ocean front beach house in NC with 8 bedrooms, 6 baths, that sleeps 26. Hence the 2 fridges, 3 ovens, 2 dishwashers. We had a large portion of our family here at Thanksgiving (32 people) and had like 7 or 8 women working to prepare the feast all at one time. Thank you Gardenweb for helping design a kitchen that WORKS !!! (send me a private message through My Page above if you are interested in renting or are just curious and would like a link to see more info & pictures of the home)

I'm sorry, didn't meant to hijack the thread with my insanely long post. : P

edited: mostly to decrease monster picture sizes thanks to GW changing their website coding, also clarified my wording on a couple things

This post was edited by angela12345 on Tue, May 13, 14 at 22:10


clipped on: 10.31.2014 at 12:13 pm    last updated on: 10.31.2014 at 12:13 pm

RE: Pantry photos/ pics of pantries (Follow-Up #52)

posted by: allison0704 on 01.25.2011 at 02:23 pm in Kitchens Forum

Here is a link with 18 various pantry ideas:

Here is a link that might be useful: Pantries


clipped on: 11.27.2011 at 10:47 am    last updated on: 11.27.2011 at 10:47 am

RE: How can I divide a HUGE pampas grass clump that defies diggin (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: donn_ on 04.18.2014 at 05:08 pm in Ornamental Grasses Forum

Take it out in chunks small enough for you to handle. Look at the entire crown as a large pie. Using a sharp axe, chop out triangular pieces. Cut off the inner third of each piece and discard. Re-plant the rest.

You also could use a spade made for this sort of work. There are several, like the King of Spades, which are all steel and extremely sturdy. Use a mill file to put a very sharp edge on it.

Here is a link that might be useful: King of Spades

This post was edited by donn_ on Fri, Apr 18, 14 at 17:22


clipped on: 07.29.2014 at 09:36 am    last updated on: 07.29.2014 at 09:37 am

RE: Any opinions on behr premium plus ultra paint? (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: faron79 on 10.31.2009 at 10:56 am in Paint Forum

(...we just got in another 600 gal's of ACE...)

We go thru SO much ACE paint here.
We always stress proper prep, priming when necessary, etc.

* I'd suggest using the ACE-Royal in the Satin sheen for kitchen or bath.
* Another neat alternative is the ACE Sensations Matte. 3M Scotchguard in the formulation makes for VERY washable walls! Now you can have a Flat/Matte in the kitchen!
* WASH THOSE WALLS first though!! Powdered Dirtex is very good, and usually doesn't need rinsing.
* If it's been some time since the last paintjob, OR poor quality paint on the walls, I'd prime.
* Lightly sand first if your walls are shiney.



clipped on: 01.04.2011 at 08:53 am    last updated on: 01.04.2011 at 08:53 am

RE: Deckover (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: nerdyshopper on 07.31.2013 at 01:54 pm in Porches & Decks Forum

I'm doing my deck in semi-transparent Australian Timber Oil. I called Lowes today and they suggested I use outdoor stainable plastic wood to fill the creacks before finishing. My cracks are wide and deep because the cedar deck is over 12 years old. I stain it every 2-3 years. Anyone tried this? It costs $11,98 a quart. Will take several quarts but that is a lot cheaper than 13 to 15 gallons of the Behr product.


clipped on: 08.14.2013 at 11:51 am    last updated on: 08.14.2013 at 11:51 am

RE: LOOKING for: Christmas Cookies (Follow-Up #88)

posted by: roselin32 on 12.06.2008 at 11:13 am in Recipe Exchange Forum

This recipe came from our going to try them next week: Just a little tweak from a recipe I have called Mexican Wedding cookies. Think this is also a CL cookie.
German Drop Cookies
1 3/4c all purpose flour
1/2c sugar
1c butter, softened
1/8 tsp salt
1c chopped pecans
1/2c powdered sugar
1/2 tsp cinnamon
Preheat oven to 350.
Combine first 5 ingredients with spoon and shpe into 1" balls.Place on baking sheet lined with parchment. Bake for 20 minutes. Combine powdered sugar and cinnamon and sift over wamr cookies.
Yield 5 dozen.


clipped on: 12.21.2010 at 11:15 am    last updated on: 12.21.2010 at 11:15 am

RE: LOOKING for: Wanted: Your favorite cookie recipie (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: roselin32 on 08.28.2007 at 04:50 pm in Recipe Exchange Forum

My favorite and most requested. Any preserve will work .......we also like apricot.
Raspberry Bars
2 1/2c all purpose flour
1 c sugar
1 c chopped pecans OR walnuts
1 c butter, softened
1 egg
1 10 jar raspberry preserves

Preheat oven to 350

Grease a 9x13" baking pan. In a large mixer bowl, combine all ingredients except preserves. Beat at low speed until mixture is crumbly about 2-3 minutes. Reserve 1 1/2 c of crumb mixture. Press remaining crumb mixture into baking pan.
Spread preserves to within 1/2" from edges of the unbaked crumb mixture. Crumble remaining crumb mix over preserves.
Bake for 40-50 minutes or til lightly browned. Cool completely and cut into bars.


clipped on: 12.21.2010 at 10:38 am    last updated on: 12.21.2010 at 10:38 am

RE: LOOKING for: Wanted: Your favorite cookie recipie (Follow-Up #10)

posted by: lizzynola on 09.01.2007 at 11:03 pm in Recipe Exchange Forum


1/4 c. butter, softened
1/2 c. sugar, plus 2 T., divided
3 T. Amaretto flavoring or liquor
1 large egg
2 cups flour (AP)
1 & 1/2 T. instant coffee
1 t. ground cinnamon, divided
1/4 t. salt

Cream the butter and gradually mix in 1/2 cup sugar, beating at medium speed until light & fluffy.
Ad the Amaretto and the egg, and beat well.
Combine the flour, coffee, 1/2 t. cinnamon and the salt.
Gradually add to the creamed mixture, stirring until well blended.
Combine remaining 2 T. sugar and 1/2 t. cinnamon, and set aside

CHILL the mixture, covered for at least an hour.

Preheat oven to 400

Shape dough into 40 balls.
Roll in sugar/cinnamon mixture.
Place 2 inches apart on an lightly greased cookie sheet or parchment paper
Flatten the dough with a fork in a criss cross pattern.
BAKE for 8-10 minutes until lightly browned.
Remove cookies from the pan and cool on a rack.

This will make about 4 dozen. Store in airtight container.

Good with coffe/tea/chocolate or cold glass of milk.


clipped on: 12.21.2010 at 10:39 am    last updated on: 12.21.2010 at 10:39 am

RE: LOOKING for: Wanted: Your favorite cookie recipie (Follow-Up #23)

posted by: woodie2 on 10.19.2007 at 11:40 am in Recipe Exchange Forum

Haha - Roselin, there certainly are a lot of nuts in Washington, now aren't there :)

Here's one of my favs -


1 cup (6 ounce package) semi-sweet chocolate chips
2 egg whites, room temp
1/8 teaspoon salt
1/2 cup sugar
1/2 teaspoon vanilla
1/2 tablespoon white vinegar
3/4 cups chopped walnuts

Preheat oven to 350.
Line cookie sheet with parchment paper.
Melt chocolate over warm water.
Beat egg whites with salt til foamy. Gradually add sugar. Beat til peaks form. Beat in vanilla and vinegar. Fold in chocolate and nuts. Drop from teaspoon onto cookie sheet. Bake 10 minutes at 350. Remove from oven and let sit on cookie sheet for 2-3 minutes to set up.
Makes 36 cookies


clipped on: 12.21.2010 at 10:43 am    last updated on: 12.21.2010 at 10:43 am

RE: Natural way to get rid of ANTS??? (Follow-Up #75)

posted by: tallullahjo on 11.21.2011 at 08:42 am in Tips & Techniques Forum

I have thoroughly enjoyed this page and many of the suggestions listed.
I have lived a relatively ant free existence here in South Australia for the past 12 years. We have a plug in, sonic, pest control which keeps away all sorts of unwanted visitors. I usually clean my worktops, floors, etc with a solution that I put together with Lavender, Tea tree and Eucalyptus oil, white vinegar and water and that deters any ants that wander in. I also spray the door threshholds and window cills and this seems to stop them trespassing. Today however my house is swarming - this is what drove me to this site.
I too do not like to harm other creatures and believe they have a right to exist in their space but not mine. I have a rule. If they are outside the house I leave them alone. When they come into the house I have to protect my family and if I cannot remove or deter them, then I use whatever NATURAL means I have at my disposal to eliminate them,
The one benefit to this invasion is that willing or not, I have to clean out all my cupboards!


clipped on: 09.23.2014 at 03:44 pm    last updated on: 09.23.2014 at 03:44 pm

RE: What to do about cats? (Follow-Up #12)

posted by: Violet_Z6 on 07.18.2005 at 02:58 am in Wildlife Garden Forum

Cat Deterrents for your Garden:

Keep in mind that each cat is different (like people), a deterrent that works for one may not necessarily work for another. On the plus side, most cats will keep pesty squirrels, moles and other critters out of your garden. They're great for keeping out moles, rabbits, squirrels, and other critters which can do more damage in your garden than a cat ever will. If the cats have owners, talk to them without being confrontational. The cat owner who allows his cat to damage other peoples' property is as guilty as the cat hater who kills the cat for trespassing. Remember, cats will be cats, and it is unfair of us to blame them for being what they are and how nature intended them to participate in this world.  After-all, we praise them when they catch mice or rats or other creatures we deem to be 'pests'.

* amonia soaked (corncobs, etc)
* aluminum foil
* bamboo skewers
* black pepper
* blood meal fertilizer
* bramble cuttings
* Carefresh - "recycled" wood pulp
* catnip - donated into your neighbor's yards (so they'll stay in their own yards)
* cedar compost
* chicken wire (metal or plastic)
* cinnamon
* citrus peels
* citrus spray
* cocoa bean shells
* coffee grounds -fresh & unbrewed, not just a light sprinkling (highly recommended by MANY Gardenwebbers!)
* dogs
* electric fence for animals
* essence of orange. essence of lemon, lime (citrus essential oils)
* fresh manure(ditto)
* garlic cloves
* gumballs from the Sweet Gum Tree
* gutter covers
* hardware cloth
* heavy bark mulch
* holly leaves
* keep the area damp, they like dry soil
* lavender
* liquid manure (good for your garden too)
* motion sensor sprinkler
* pennyroyal
* pinecones
* pipe tobacco
* plastic forks
* predator urine
* red wine vinegar
* river rocks over the exposed soil
* rocks, crushed
* rose bush clippings
* rue, an herb (Ruta graveolens) (highly recommended in plant form only)
* short twigs throughout the planted area about 6" apart
* six-inch bamboo skewers (pointy side up)
* Spray on your leaves (not the cat): fill a spray bottle with 1/2 t chili powder, 1/2 t cayenne pepper, 1 t dish soap and water
* squirt gun with water
* talk to your neighbors
* tansy
* thorny berry, lilac, hawthorn, rose clippings
* toothpicks
* upside down vinyl carpet
* vinegar sprayed on areas where they roam
* water bottle on "stream"

*** chili powder, red crushed pepper, cayenne pepper (NOT recommended), it gets on the cat's paws then they wash themselves and they get it in their eyes, beware cats have literally scratched their eyes out because of this. Even if it's one cat out of 500 infected in this way, that's one too many for me.
*** Don't ever use mothballs or flakes. Those little toxic waste pellets destroy cats' kidney function, could seriously harm people who handle them, and yes, contaminate your own garden soil. Their packaging even warns against using them this way.

Give them their own areas:

(To keep them out of where you don't want them)
(If you don't mind them protecting your garden from other critters)

+ pick the cat up and bring it to eye level with the plant to see and smell it up close. She noted that once her cat has seen and sniffed at the plant, she usually doesn't bother with it later.

+ give them their own plants - i.e., pots of grass for her to chew on and a place in a large planted container on her balcony with some miscanthus grass in it (the cat likes to curl up in that for some reason)

+ if the cats are strictly indoors and attracted to your houseplants, grow catgrass for them. If someone forced you to remain inside one enclosed structure all your life, you might be attracted to the plants too.

+ Barley Grass
+ Any type of "catgrass" from the pet store
+ Carex elata 'Bolwes Golden' but put it in some shade
+ Catmint Nepeta mussinicultivars (Simply put, Catmints are Catnips without any culinary or feline use. In any case, they are, however, phenomenal, long flowering, hardy perennials that belong in every fairie or flower garden.)
+ Catnip Nepeta cataria (in your own yard) The oils of which also work as a mosquito repellent that works 10 times better than Deet! Catmint is the common name for all varieties of Nepeta. Catnip is the common name for the specific variety of Nepeta called nepeta cataria, which is the variety that cats are most attracted to.
+ Cat Thyme (Teucrium marum)
+ Flax
+ Oat Grass
+ Jacob's Ladder
+ Lemon Grass
+ Loose soil and mulch like small bark mulch
+ Mints
+ Purple Fountain Grass so the cat lays in the long leaves all day. Maybe put something in that the cats really like and - you know cats won't winky were they like to hang out.
+ Sandy area
+ Silver vine (Actinidia polygama)
+ Striped Ribbon Grass (can be invasive)
+ Sweet grass
+ Trificum aestivum (type of cat grass)
+ Various Varieties of Cat Mints (Catnips)
+ Wheat Grass
+ Wheat Berries
+ Valerian

This list compiled by Violet_Z6, email at for comments and suggestions regarding this list.


clipped on: 05.19.2012 at 09:59 am    last updated on: 05.19.2012 at 09:59 am