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RE: Upper cabinet depth on new inset doors (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: brianadarnell on 08.23.2011 at 09:17 am in Kitchens Forum

Buehl is right. Since it is too late, what options do you have? I store my dishes in a pullout drawer and I will never go back to having them stored in an upper. They are much easier to upload from the dishwasher when they are lower than counter. Its also much easier to grab the number you need to set the table, etc. You don't have to grab them one at a time because you can really get a good grip on them when you are looking down at them. try it out and see what you think. HTH.


store plates in drawers, rather than upper cabinets
clipped on: 02.19.2013 at 11:44 pm    last updated on: 02.19.2013 at 11:44 pm

RE: Upper cabinet depth on new inset doors (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: alwaysfixin on 08.23.2011 at 08:26 am in Kitchens Forum

I agree with Colorfast that it would be great to have a sort of "warnings" permanent post. We went 3" deeper in both base cabinets and uppers (i.e. 27" and 15" respectively) only because I had read here about how limiting 12" deep uppers could be. We also chose frameless cabinets for our small kitchen for the same reason (i.e. we needed the most interior cabinet and drawer space we could possibly get). Again, it's only because I had read here that while inset is a beautiful look, frameless will give more storage when space is at a premium. And what would we do without Buehl? I think almost everything I know about kitchen design and organization I learned from her!

For your glasses, Crate and Barrel has several styles of tall narrow cylindrical-shaped glasses - they offer the same ounces as other glasses cause they're tall, but they'll take up less footprint in your cabinets. Look for tall narrow glasses that also have a heavy base to provide stability, such as the the Otis Glass or the more decorative Direction Glass, but there are several others, and many more of this style sold at different stores.


clipped on: 02.19.2013 at 11:43 pm    last updated on: 02.19.2013 at 11:43 pm

RE: Upper cabinet depth on new inset doors (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: buehl on 08.22.2011 at 10:24 pm in Kitchens Forum

Actually, your uppers are standard depth. The standard depth for upper cabinets is 24"...and that's the box, not the door.

What you have to realize is that 12" is the total depth of the cabinet box...including the back wall and front face frame. So, in reality, a 12" deep cabinet only has interior space = 12" - thickness of the wall - thickness of the face frame.

In face framed/overlay and frameless cabinets, you can utilize the space with the face frame as storage b/c the door sits outside the cabinet. So, except for right next to the wall, the usable depth includes the frame.

However, with inset, the door sits inside the cabinet and takes up the space of the face frame, so you cannot use that frame space.

I know it's too late for you, but with inset cabinets, I recommend a depth of at least 13", preferably 14" or 15"...especially plate and platter storage cabinets.


Inset cabinets upper need to be pref. 14-15 inches deep.
clipped on: 02.19.2013 at 11:41 pm    last updated on: 02.19.2013 at 11:42 pm

RE: Form vs function/Practicality vs design in appliances (Follow-Up #11)

posted by: needinfo1 on 12.12.2012 at 10:11 am in Kitchens Forum

This is really goofy. I wrote a long post last night and now it isn't here........Wonder if I forgot to hit submit after preview. Or, did it disappear into cyber space?

I really appreciate all of the advice, and I am still torn. Yesterday we went to talk to the Bluestar rep and to see it. It certainly is an impressive piece of equipment with those blazing hot burners, and yes there is even a visual difference between the flame size and level of the mega-sized 22K burners and the 15K. That said, I really need to spend some time reflecting on whether I truly need all of that fire power. The free color upgrade was offered to us and must be the incentive to get people in to talk to the rep. So, this would give me my color.....My husband was quite impressed with the build of the stove and the mechanics. But, I also keep thinking of all I've read of Bluestar problems with hot and sticking doors etc.

For anyone else considering a Bluestar or other high-powered range, we learned some new things about installation and safety that we had never heard from any of the other sales people we've talked with. A high- powered range like this needs to have a fire proof/resistant back wall if it is installed with the standard island trim kit. We have white subway tile as a four foot high backsplash and had assumed we'd be fine as is, but apparently this is not sufficient unless it is fire proof tile (I have no idea how one would know this) AND the tile needs to go down 6" below the top of the range. Otherwise, you need to buy at least the 6" high backguard. This is what we'll be doing if we buy this.

The dealer we visited yesterday had a cream colored Legacy on the floor. It was gorgeous and much more attractive than the white one we saw elsewhere. So, if you are looking for a light color Legacy, go for cream because it looked so much more rich and definitely not as cheap appearing as the white model. I still really like the Legacy a lot and can see pluses to it. First of all, it really is cute looking and would set an entirely different tone for our kitchen. We are empty nesters and those smaller ovens would be nice most of the time for what we cook for ourselves. But, I also know the burners are not as powerful as the more pro ranges (whether I need more power is a whole different story), and I really much prefer the open burners over the closed of the Legacy. While fine, I think the overall construction is a bit less sturdy than the Bluestar type models since the burners are aluminum rather than the brass of the Bluestar. And, one of the major concerns of ours is that the sides on this are not finished, so it can't stand with one side exposed. We would have to come up with having a carpenter build a teeny 4"-6" side piece to match our cabinetry.

The appearance of a white stove as suggested by hollysprings definitely fits in, but I am really sick of the white top and how after a while, no matter how much you try to clean and scrub, there are just some stains and discolorations that are always there. So, even if I go with white, I want something that is not white on the cooktop.

I have not even thought of reconfiguring and getting a new cabinet built to hold a cooktop and wall oven. My guess is that this would probably end up being even more expensive that a top end range.

GWlolo mentioned being able to get prices less than retail. I'd like to know more about this since this is one thing that is frustrating to me about looking at all of these appliances. They are all quoting the exact same prices whereas nearly everything else we buy has dealer discretion on pricing. I am aware of online buying to avoid taxes, scratch and dent options (these just don't seem to be available for many different or high end lines though and floor models. What other ways are there to actually get a deal?

The one thing I know is I refuse to put a stainless steel box in my kitchen!

Thanks all. If you have any more thoughts, I appreciate them.


info on safety for bluestar range
clipped on: 02.01.2013 at 02:18 pm    last updated on: 02.01.2013 at 02:18 pm

Kitchen tile backsplash help or suggestions?

posted by: jh222 on 09.11.2012 at 09:27 am in Kitchens Forum

Hi everyone! I LOVE the look of this kitchen, specifically the tile backsplash but have not been able to find anything like it online to order:

Do you have any ideas of where to find it?
What size tiles do you think they are?
What it might be called?

Any help would be greatly appreciated! :)


Here is a link that might be useful: Online Photo


Tile Ann Sacks for Erin Adams
clipped on: 12.27.2012 at 10:15 pm    last updated on: 12.27.2012 at 10:15 pm

RE: Calling all rachielle sink owners! (Follow-Up #10)

posted by: zartemis on 03.11.2012 at 10:55 pm in Kitchens Forum

We went with a Rachiele sink since it was the only way we could get every ergonomic feature we wanted:

We wanted:

1. No more than 8" deep from top of counter (limit bending)
2. Narrow front ledge (apron front preferred): no more than 2" horizontal distance from front of sink to opening (limit bending)
3. Offset drain (to make more usable room under the sink) but configured to make sure there was room for the extra large batch disposal we wanted.
4. Non-zero radius corners (we wanted a curve for ease of cleaning -- some folks are fine with the right angle zero radius, but we weren't).
5. Can be flush mounted (not overmount or undermount -- we wanted to be able to sweep from the counter into the sink like an undermount, but also to protect soapstone edge as well as have the front apron as high as the countertop, preserving the full 8" depth on all 4 sides.
6. No more than 19" front to back to allow the faucet to be within ergonomic reach for us.
7. Apron front flush with countertop horizontally as well -- no hip-bumping protruding sink for us.

Rachiele was able to handle the special requests.

Now that we've used it, there are things we would change to make it even better:

1. We'd go with only 7" deep.
2. Consider moving the drain the front right corner. We almost didn't have room to mount the instahot on the same wall -- I didn't take into account that since the sink didn't go the back wall, that a rear drain actually puts the disposal in the middle front-to-back. We lucked out here. However, with a batch feed, you reach for the drain plug frequently and it would be more ergonomic for the drain to be near the front (less bending). It's still better than a back wall mounted switch and about the same as an airswitch at faucet distance.

We love seeing the changing patina inside the sink (I admit I sometimes give lemons and limes an extra squeeze before chucking the skins down the disposal):

Here you can see how we just barely squeezed in the instahot and the oversize disposal along one wall (the DW high loop is in back).

The left side will be converted to a drawer in the future since there is so much room there (and we'll be recutting the cabinet opening higher and getting taller doors (see the top photo -- oops):


clipped on: 12.27.2012 at 11:00 am    last updated on: 12.27.2012 at 11:00 am

RE: Is this chandelier size right? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: chemocurl on 10.28.2011 at 11:33 am in Lighting Forum

Taken from the link below:
One universally correct formula for determining the correct size light fixture for the Dining Room is to go with a fixture that has a diameter that is half the diameter (or width) of the tabletop. For instance, if the Dining Room table is a rectangle of 48" wide x 72" long, a chandelier that is approximately 24" (half of the 48" width of the table) in diameter would look fabulous. If the table is a 60" round diameter, a 30" diameter chandelier would be appropriate.


The height of the actual chandelier should be determined on the ceiling height of the room. Many Designers follow the rule of allowing 2 " 3" for each foot of a rooms height. Using this calculation, a room that has an 8' ceiling can use a chandelier that is approximately 20" to 24" in height. If the ceiling is 10 feet high, than a light fixture that is 25" to 30" would look more appropriate.


Here is a link that might be useful: How to Pick the Best Size Chandelier for your Room


Chandelier size info
clipped on: 01.02.2012 at 12:46 pm    last updated on: 01.02.2012 at 12:47 pm

I Finished my White Zen Kitchen!

posted by: celineike on 07.10.2011 at 05:17 pm in Kitchens Forum

Ahhhh, it's good to be done.
What fun this whole process has been!
Here's the low down.

We had a slab leak in February. The entire downstairs had wood floors and water had been leaking into them for weeks/months? we don't know. But long enough that the walls and cabinets were wet as well. So they gutted and we got to work.
Our old kitchen was a dark place for me. We have north facing window and the light was always dim. We also had light wood cabinets and dark greenish black granite (Uba Tuba?) on the counters, island and backsplash!!!! ugh! what a light sucker that was!

I had always known that if we changed the kitchen it would be to white. I know people say timeless doesn't exist in kitchens... but every decade I can think of has had white as an option. So I never thought of this a trendy thing. -til i got here, lol.
Anyway, White cabs and grey counters were the only things I had in mind for sure. The rest fell into place the more I looked around and if you see a part of your kitchen in here... THANK YOU!!!! I stole SO many details from GWer's.

Apparently we have a small kitchen,lol... didn't think so til i got here either, it's 13'x12'

Counters.... Qortstone perimeters in Cemento
Island & Bar is Statuary Marble
Butcher Block on Island.... oiled Dark Walnut End-Grain 18"x38"
Cabinets .... shaker, inset, framed
Paint on Cabs ...BM Cloud White
Paint on Walls ... BM Smokey Taupe
Hardware is mostly RH & Rejuvenation for the Latches (way worth that investment!) All Polished Nickel
Island now measures 38"x 84"
walkways are 38" on sink side; 42" on oven side; and 36" on fridge side... all plenty wide, i was worried about pushing these measurements.
Bluestar RNB 36"
Proline 36" Hood
Sharp MW Drawer
Kenmore Elite French door Fridge
Fisher & Paykel Dish Drawer Washer
Sink.. Krauss 33" double Bowl Stainless
Main Faucet is Hansgrohe Pull Down PN

way before

and after...


Fridge wall, Appliance garage on right and coffee station on left

Island with BB and Rubbish/Recycling Bins/drawers - love these!

Bluestar tee hee

I'll post some more pics of fun details. Things i liked seeing from other's kitchens and ended up adding to mine.

At one point, I had chosen everything and had a huge set back of worry that the whole thing would be boring instead of calm and bright and peaceful. Thank you all for your encouragement and opinions on various choices and ideas. This is such great forum with wonderful people.
I love how my kitchen turned out!



clipped on: 10.21.2011 at 11:54 pm    last updated on: 10.22.2011 at 12:11 am

Finished Kitchen-warm white cabs, marble, wood counters

posted by: blakey on 03.29.2009 at 04:58 pm in Kitchens Forum

I can't believe it's complete, except for a bit of decorating, but it's so nice to be able to cook again. Thanks to everyone on this forum for the great questions, advice, photos, suggestions and support. I feel like I got so lucky when I stumbled upon this website just as we were getting started. It helped me tremendously and so many of the kitchens served as inspiration(you'll know who you are!)


breakfast room

wet bar





mud room

laundry room

Cabinets-Wood Mode
Perimeter Counters-Calacatta Crema-honed
Island top-Sapele Mahogany
Wall Oven-Miele
Refrigerator-Sub Zero
Main Sink-Shaw's Original Farm Sink
Wet Bar Sink-Sink-A-Link Hammered Copper


Laundry floor, use of sunroom &layout
clipped on: 07.19.2011 at 11:57 pm    last updated on: 07.19.2011 at 11:59 pm