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Best spring blooming perennials & best zinnias for butterflies?

posted by: lunalady on 01.16.2009 at 03:52 pm in Butterfly Garden Forum

Hi,
I live in Ohio and I need some suggestions for spring blooming perennials that are the most attractive to butterflies, especially swallowtails. Also, can anyone recommend the best zinnias? Thanks.
Anna

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clipped on: 03.28.2012 at 02:46 pm    last updated on: 03.28.2012 at 02:46 pm

RE: Before and After - I'll show you mine if..... (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: angela12345 on 07.31.2009 at 08:15 am in Square Foot Gardening Forum

I planted my transplants on May 19. The before picture was on June 7 and the after picture is July 28.
6-7-097-28-09

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clipped on: 03.20.2012 at 06:25 pm    last updated on: 03.20.2012 at 06:25 pm

RE: The ideal tomato stake? (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: an_ill-mannered_ache on 01.26.2007 at 08:44 am in Vertical Gardening Forum

bill,
have you thought of aluminum toprail from chain-link fencing? i built my vertical garden out of some leftover lengths: For around $15 you get a 22 ft length of weather-proof pipe, about 2.25 inches in diameter. One minute with a hacksaw and you'd have two 11' lengths for stakes. There are all sorts of connectors and caps available, and if you give it a good coat of primer, you can spray paint it any color. You can easly drive it with a sledge 2 or 3'.

The one drawback is it's pretty slick and doesn't offer any purchase for ties. Somewhere on GW someone recommended drilling holes and pushing dowels through the holes. It is very easy to drill -- an awl and a titanium bit does the trick. Just be VERY careful, since the holes are surrounded by razor sharp metal shavings -- use a file to remove them!

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clipped on: 03.20.2012 at 06:03 pm    last updated on: 03.20.2012 at 06:03 pm

Before and After, raised bed building for veggies

posted by: Rathos on 03.20.2012 at 12:21 pm in Vegetable Gardening Forum

This was so much work, but so far, I'm satisfied. Still have to fill these boxes (it's only 17 yards of mushroom compost, how hard can that be? ugh) but I wanted to share and hear what people think =)

This was a major expansion from the plot last year, as you can gather from the tarped area which comprised the whole garden before. Tons of work left to do getting it cleaned up and all tied down, but it's a start.

Before:




After:





Whew. Looking at it just makes me tired all over again. Lot of veggies on the plate and started already, just need to get back to work filling this up and getting ready for late april/early may planting =)

Cheers

-Rathos

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clipped on: 03.20.2012 at 04:51 pm    last updated on: 03.20.2012 at 04:52 pm

Our Coop is now finished!

posted by: sullicorbitt on 07.05.2005 at 10:26 am in Farm Life Forum

The girls really seem to like their new place :)
Image hosted by Photobucket.com
Image hosted by Photobucket.com
Image hosted by Photobucket.com

Sheila

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clipped on: 03.14.2012 at 12:12 pm    last updated on: 03.14.2012 at 12:13 pm

RE: Favorite Full Sun Combinations (Follow-Up #11)

posted by: franeli on 03.07.2012 at 07:55 am in Perennials Forum

Here's a combo that I like for sun and summer:

Photobucket

Monarda 'Blue Stocking', Rudbekia 'Indian Summer' and Tanacetum aka...feverfew

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clipped on: 03.08.2012 at 08:22 pm    last updated on: 03.08.2012 at 08:22 pm

RE: Love Perennials..Looking for names of plants that multiply. (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: gardenweed_z6a on 03.07.2012 at 05:38 pm in Perennials Forum

You've got some great suggestions already but I'll add that growing perennials from seed via winter sowing is incredibly easy and gives you lots of new perennials for just the cost of some good growers mix. Check out the Winter Sowing forum here on GardenWeb.

You can trade for seeds via the Seed Exchange forum here on GardenWeb--look for SASBE/BEAP offers (that's Self-Addressed Stamped Bubble Envlope/Bubble Envelope And Postage) if you don't have seeds to offer in trade. I'm currently trying to empty my 2011 seed stash of harvested perennial seeds and could probably send you some although pickings are getting mighty slim by now.

Thanks to winter sowing the past couple of years, I've filled multiple flowerbeds with hundreds of new perennials for pennies...and had tons of fun in the process.

Here's a little eye candy. These were all grown via winter sowing:

Lobelia cardinalis/cardinal flower

Gaura lindheimeri/wand flower

Alcea/Hollyhock

Catananch caerulea/Cupid's dart

Belamcanda chinensis/blackberry lily (with 'Autumn Colors' Rudbeckia in the background)

Echinacea purpurea/purple coneflower

Lobelia siphilitica/great blue lobelia

Agastache rupestris/sunset hyssop

Rudbeckia hirta/gloriosa daisy 'Double Gold'

Adenophora pereskiifolia/ladybells

Lupinus perennis/lupine

Verbascum/mullein 'Milkshake'

Aquilegia vulgaris/Barlow columbine

Trollius ledebouria/Chinese globeflower

Penstemon/beardtongue 'Mystica'

Alcea/hollyhock

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clipped on: 03.08.2012 at 08:05 pm    last updated on: 03.08.2012 at 08:06 pm

RE: How long have you vermicomposted and what have you learned (Follow-Up #14)

posted by: rogy on 07.17.2010 at 09:07 am in Vermicomposting Forum

I have two Rubbermaid worm bins, one that Ive been using for about six or seven years and one that is about three years old.

Both bins are in my cellar, and are elevated.
Each has a drainage hole in the bottom corner that is covered with a screen and has a small (1/4") piece of clear tubing which runs down to a 2 gallon jug with a hole in the lid. Tea is easily collected that way (you can watch it run through the tube).
Both have " ventilation holes (about 30) in the sides and top covered with screen (hot glued to the inside).
Both use a single sheet of black landscape cloth cut to size to provide darkness and cover.
From each bin I periodically remove a few handfuls of excess worms and put some in my compost pile, my elevated "square foot" garden and a few in my two hermit crab terrariums (they eat the crabs "castings" and food scraps and help keep it cleaner).
They DO especially love watermelon, but will compost almost anything I put in there, including sweet corn cobs, (which seem to take forever in my outdoor compost pile).
I havent put egg shells in my worm bins for years they never really go away. Egg shells go in my outdoor compost pile.

The bins are different in a couple of ways:

Bin 1: (the older one):

I use hay (that my daughter drops on our cellar floor when shes changing her Guinea Pig cage) or shredded paper as "bedding" on top of the worms and they consume it steadily. I find its a bit of a pain to have to "bury" scraps under this bedding.

Bin 2: (the newer one): This bin has the same ventilation and drainage system as bin one, but differs in a couple of ways:

I improved drainage by placing a double-screened (window screen over " hardware cloth) drainage "grate" about 1" off of the bottom of the bin. I simply folded down the edges of the hardware cloth and put a small stone under the middle for support.
I use no hay, paper or other "bedding" in this bin. I started it with a " layer of worm castings/soil over the screen and added a handful of worms. This system works very well (maybe better than bin number one) and is much easier to add scraps to. I simply lift the black cloth, place the scraps and replace the cloth.
I have no problems with odor or fruit flies and the worms are really thriving.

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clipped on: 03.08.2012 at 12:58 pm    last updated on: 03.08.2012 at 12:58 pm

RE: How long have you vermicomposted and what have you learned (Follow-Up #12)

posted by: steamyb on 07.11.2010 at 09:52 am in Vermicomposting Forum

Worms have worked for me about 2 years, and I almost feel I could write a book on what they have taught me. Not so much the earth science stuff, but more about how the lowliest creature is perhaps the most important.
Some insight milestones (for me at least, perhaps common knowledge for the rest of you):
3/09- I harvested a Rubbermaid tote in March. About 30 lbs. of VC went into the Incubator (a Rubbermaid tote that holds the VC until the worms hatch out). My wife and I "rescued about a hundred worms out of that tote over the next 2 months. Then the VC went into a plastic garbage bag and sat on my patio until August (I forgot it was there). Anyway, when I put the VC into a drying pan, I pulled out 6 more worms. Now the VC is properly dried and beautifully crumbly and jet black. (Worms are Survivors)
8/28/09- The mites are members of an ecosystem that we feel we can control, but alas, that is a delusion. Our controls are extremely limited and nature prevails. The worm bins, totes, boxes and barrels we have are just a small part of a natural world that most of us never thought of before we cultured worms. It seems funny that now we think we can control it. (The Arrogance of Man)
9/10- To answer your question about when compost is "done", as long as organisms are alive in the VC, it is never done. That is what makes VC such an asset to your plants. Chemical fertilizers cannot do for plants what VC does. (Living Soil)
10/31/09- No the people are not a "bad" influence, its the worms. Always eating and reproducing and pooping and never satisfied. Always wanting more food so that in restaurants other peoples scraps become worm food. And always reproducing so that every container I see becomes a worm box and how many worms can we fit in a box? And dont we need a bigger box. And so with the poop, never enough poop, got to have more. I need poop and so does every one I know needing some poop and the worms always making some poop. And now I need a bigger truck to haul more poop and more manure to feed the bigger worm boxes and when will this madness end? (Worms makes you Crazy)
I started wormin so I could make worm tea for my bonsai trees. Now I have 2 totes, a 55 gallon flow-thru and a 4X3X2 box. I just needed tea for 6 trees. LOL (Worms are Addicting)
2/6/10- My granddaughter Chloe (age 9) just finished her 10 week science project. The project was a comparison between two (2) worm boxes which were 6 quart plastic containers. Each container was prepared with one (1) pound of Black Kow pasteurized manure (available at Lowes), shredded cardboard and worm tea as an inoculate of microbes. Container A started with ten (10) adult worms and Container B started with 20 cocoons. Both boxes were kept together in the house (aver. temp 66F). These boxes were not feed but the moisture level was checked regularly. The results were hand counted by my son and my granddaughter created a poster board for the presentation.
The results:
Container A started with 10 Adult Worms: 12 Adults, 47 Adolescents, and 120 Cocoons
Container B started with 20 Cocoons: 11 Adults, 4 Adolescents, and 38 Cocoons
(A Child Can Compost with Worms)
The bigger the container, the easier it is to maintain. When things go wrong in a small box, it goes wrong in a hurry. In a bigger box, if worms are unhappy where they are, they move to another spot. I feed my 4x3x2 box a surface feed on half of the top and cover with shredded cardboard and a sheet of plastic. This is about 2 gallons of slop and happens once or twice a week. I get "Hot Spots" up to 110F in some places, but the worms have plenty of room to get away from the heat. In a small tote (I have and neglect these too), the worms would cook. (The Bigger System Works Best)
3/3/10
The size of the cocoons is interesting, but the real clue to survival mode is the quantity of the cocoons. Even starving worms are able to swap juice and throw cocoons. Apparently, the distressed worms are programmed by nature to do this even in adverse conditions. And perhaps at an accelerated pace. (Worms Will Be Here After We Are Gone)
3/25/10
I have at least 4 different species of "red worms" living in my worm box. Plus Black Soldier Fly Larvae and a ton of Mites. These composting critters do a great job. I only bought red wigglers (eisenia fetida).
Apparently, each worm has a specific "job" in nature. When we put them into totes and boxes or barrels, we (vermifolks) attempt to control those natural processes or "jobs". Each tote or barrel will balance- that is- reach a harmony of occupants. This may require a decrease in one species of resident and an increase in another. Worms are designed by nature to survive so they are prolific breeders. Eisenia fetida are perhaps the most prolific of them all and the first choice of many vermifolks. (Box of Rot)
Well, for one thing I am not "keeping" them(Black Soldier Fly Larvae) in my worm box. They are there because I have not been able to kill them all. I do kill all I see because I am a worm guy and not a maggot guy. These maggots (I dont call them bio-grubs or phoenix worms or any other lie) eat ALL the food, leaving none for the worms. They are not good neighbors and I would love to evict these maggots from hell, but alas, I am unable. These maggots are dormant now (too cool yet), but when temps are up (70 days and 50 nights) these suckers will get active. And so will I. Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha(Always Bury Food)
4/5/10- I wanted to tell you mite raisers about a little observation of a "happening" in my big (4x3x2) box in the garage. Since the box is away from the house in the detached garage, I have no problem putting meat in the big box. This box is compost central with all the citizens working over time. I put some bad, stinking and past the good date pork sausage (I had planned on sausage gravy and buttermilk biscuits, yum) into the big box. This was a pound of sausage that I broke up into smaller chunks and buried around different spots in the box about 2 weeks ago. While doing a little harvesting this weekend, I noticed these sausage balls or chunks of pork stink were covered with white mites to the point that, as I moved the porkish mite holders, a layer of mites would remain where the pork was previously parked. This indicated to me that these mites were thick on the parked pork and moving the stinky sausage left a mite presence or footprint.
No other citizens in the box were eating stinky sausage. One reason, they were unable to access the pork because of the thickness of the mites working on the sausage. Or another reason, no desire to eat stinky pig product. Just an observation in the big box of the value of mites in a vermi-system and why we should not be afraid to feed any compostable item when the system is far enough away from the house.
Have you hugged your mites today? (All Creatures have a Purpose)
5/3/10- Worm Tea has NO EFFECT on Tomatoes
Read the article.
http://ejb.ucv.cl/content/vol13/issue2/full/2/index.html
(Prejudice is Stronger Than Truth- based on responses to this article)
5/10- Results: Poo dissolved in the 1 cup vinegar/ 1 gallon Water sample. Worms showed immediate distress in the cup vinegar/ 1 gallon Water sample. This distress progressed to the point of "appear to decompose, sloughing tissue and slime. It could simply be an inflammation sort of reaction to an external cause." And the stronger the vinegar, the quicker the reaction. The cocoons showed no reaction to any external conditions. They have been placed in an incubator.
Now we all know that poo cannot be dissolved in a bin by an acid wash without killing worms. (Wormy experiments are fun- but not so much for the worms)
6/18/10-After almost 2 years of worming, I now have worms in 9 different containers of various sizes and types. If I could start over with what I know now, this would be my simple plan. Start with 1 pound of worms ($30) in a 5 gallon bucket with air holes drilled in the top only ($1 each when I buy 50) add shredded cardboard ($0- free from the liquor store), water ($0- so cheap I cant measure it) and food ($0- garbage or table scraps or animal poop or leaf mulch, make it easy on yourself, whatever you have at hand). Every 3 months split the buckets (write the split date on tape and put on the bucket). In 1 year I would have 16 buckets with 16 pounds of worms ready for sale. Sell a bucket for $35 and tell them how you raise worms. Only keep 16 buckets ready to sell (this # would depend on your available space and market, some may need to keep 8 or 32, but you get the idea). After you have the 16 buckets on hand, any time you split the buckets and have worms that dont sell, put them in a worm pit (4" cinder blocks 2 high on flat ground and as big as you want it, 4x4, 4x8, whatever) and feed them leaf mulch (free from the city and cover with straw in the winter). If sales are so good that you should run out of buckets, hit the pit and fill some buckets. This would be my simple plan.

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clipped on: 03.08.2012 at 12:56 pm    last updated on: 03.08.2012 at 12:57 pm

How long have you vermicomposted and what have you learned

posted by: kathmcd7 on 07.03.2010 at 08:09 pm in Vermicomposting Forum

I've been vermicomposting about two years now, and have learned (mostly through trial and error), that this is really quite simple after you get a routine going.

Some things I've learned:

I don't tear my cardboard for bedding as small as I once did.
You never have enough cardboard.
I feed every other day; sometimes longer if I forget!
I don't feed some foods to the inside worms, because it's too much work to prepare.
When I go out of town, they don't die.
Over 100 degrees outside doesn't kill them if they're wet and in the shade.
I can use the 18 quart container that works just as well as the 18 gallon.
This is a really fun and interesting hobby that I enjoy sharing with others when they are interested.

I'm sure there's more, but that's all I can think of for now.

Kath

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clipped on: 03.08.2012 at 12:40 pm    last updated on: 03.08.2012 at 12:40 pm

My version of cement blocks for raised beds. (Follow-Up #15)

posted by: oldherb on 05.18.2006 at 08:39 pm in Four Season Vegetable Gardening Forum

I have a couple of things that will help with some of the issues surrounding the cement aka cinder blocks for raised beds that I needed to apply to my first bed and they seem to be working out very well.

First thing is...we have moles and moles find structures like contained raised beds a delight to frolic in, usually doing in favorite plants or running right along the edges where its impossible to catch them...dirty little buggers.
THE FIX: After I had dug the bed debth I wanted I installed 1/4" hardware cloth as a barrier. Hardware cloth is a wire mesh sold by the foot at hardware stores or in roles at Home Depot and Lowes). The moles can't come up into the bed with this barrier (Learned this lesson with my first large raised bed garden some years ago after we neglected this step). The hole I dug for the bed became known as "the grave"...about 8' x 4'...the neighbor kids thought it was pretty cool.

I made sure the floor of the hole was level using a screed stick (a straight board or brood handle work for this.) Next I layed brick around the bottom edge of the bed followed by the cinder blocks on top.

Finally I lined the sides with landscape fabric to keep the water and soil from seeping out the cracks. I filled the bed, cut off the extra fabric and filled the pockets with soil and planted them with a variety of thymes I use in the kitchen. They have been doing very well.

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clipped on: 03.08.2012 at 10:59 am    last updated on: 03.08.2012 at 10:59 am

RE: Anyone here use cement blocks for raised beds? (Follow-Up #13)

posted by: Bostonian on 11.12.2004 at 07:34 am in Four Season Vegetable Gardening Forum

Adam, I planted chives in each corner of the 2 beds and alpine strawberries all along the right side side holes of the left bed. The soil/compost wasn't the best thing to fill the holes with (shrinkage).

I used potting soil to fill the holes on the left side of the left bed and planted semps, sedums and thyme.

Marigolds did fine in the holes. Next spring I'll fill the holes in the right bed left side with potting soil and plant more alpine strawberries. I haven't planted anything in the blocks dissecting the left bed because I like to walk on them.

Kathy

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clipped on: 03.08.2012 at 10:57 am    last updated on: 03.08.2012 at 10:57 am

Migrating squash... help!

posted by: johnmac09 on 03.08.2012 at 02:22 am in Vegetable Gardening Forum

Think I've got a new variety of butternut squash. Every year I plant in a certain place, wait patiently, and then if I'm lucky find them growing elsewhere on the plot. Sometimes they migrate so far I never find them at all. No doubt a lucky neighbour wonders where all the butternut squash suddenly sprouting has come from. Doesn't matter if I put tags in or not, the result is always the same. My apprentice (wife Linda) thinks it's just a case of me losing my marbles.

Maybe I should tether each little seed to a stick when I plant. Any other suggestions for solutions gladly welcome!

Thanks, John

Here is a link that might be useful: Allotment Heaven: An English Vegetable Garden

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clipped on: 03.08.2012 at 10:49 am    last updated on: 03.08.2012 at 10:50 am

RE: hobby fruit growing in atlanta? (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: tiffaneyga on 06.16.2007 at 02:00 pm in Georgia Gardener Forum

I am in Marietta and I grow the following:
Pears, Apples, Kiwano Melon, Star Fruit, Dragon Fruit, Monstera Deliciosa, Grapefruit, Blood Orange, Bananas, Passionfruit, Soursop, Fig (Honey Italian/Celeste), Coffee, Pineapple, Pink Lemon, Litchi, Noni, Key Lime, Tangerine, Vanilla Bean, Blueberries, Strawberries, Pomegrante, Mango, and Papaya (just planted).

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clipped on: 03.08.2012 at 10:36 am    last updated on: 03.08.2012 at 10:37 am

RE: Giant Cape Gooseberries? (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: girlgroupgirl on 01.26.2012 at 04:09 pm in Georgia Gardener Forum

I've grown these. Not the giant ones, but similar small ones: Aunt Molly. Delicious, water hogs and husk worms and some sort of animal loved them too. Got a bit. I would be more selective about planting them in the future, in containers (away from grubby paws) were they are automatically watered. The taste is outta this world!

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clipped on: 03.08.2012 at 10:30 am    last updated on: 03.08.2012 at 10:30 am

RE: Ordered bare-root paw paw. Are they doomed? (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: shazaam on 02.29.2012 at 12:03 pm in Fruit & Orchards Forum

If you're looking for alternative suppliers, Burnt Ridge Nursery, Edible Landscaping, and Raintree Nursery all have a good selection of named Paw Paw varieties.

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clipped on: 03.08.2012 at 10:20 am    last updated on: 03.08.2012 at 10:20 am

RE: Suggestions for Flavorful Fig Varieties? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: King.Fig on 02.10.2012 at 09:10 am in Fig Forum

Here are the results of a search on this forum for the "best figs". Using the link below, you should be able to find ideas and specific recommendations for your particular climate. If you see any particular fig variety that appeals to you, let us know and someome should be able to advise you where you might find one.

IMO, Violette de Bourdaux is a must have fig and it does well in most climates. This variety is usually available from a couple of reliable mail order nurseries.

Here is a link that might be useful: Best Figs

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clipped on: 03.08.2012 at 10:11 am    last updated on: 03.08.2012 at 10:11 am

Plants For base of mixed hedge

posted by: Daylilly21 on 07.26.2011 at 09:07 am in Gardening in Shade Forum

I have a north facing border full of Ferns, Hostas & Primulas which all grow very successfully. However I have a dry shady space at the back of this border which is against a mixed hedge. Any suggestions for plants that will grow in this area would be much appreciated.

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clipped on: 03.07.2012 at 04:46 pm    last updated on: 03.07.2012 at 04:46 pm

RE: Does shade garden take a long time to established (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: corrine1 on 10.10.2011 at 06:25 pm in Gardening in Shade Forum

Perhaps the soil needs improvement or plants need more water to thrive. Some cultivars are faster growing than others. We've had most plants thrive here even in our dry summer weather due to the soil preparation. We had to water it in August & September, but no more now. Will water again in dry season next summer, but after than only if plants need it. Mulch helps, too!

These are mid summer pix of our spring planted back garden in the shade where we layered chicken coop cleanings (manure + shavings) materials over packed clay, let sit for a few weeks, then turned over with a fork, but could barely dig in, layered more materials & then just planted right in them. I dug big holes for the hosta & added a soil amendment called Sumner Grow, which is like Milorganite. The plants are happy.

Chicken & duck coops in background are a good source of manure + bedding for our compost piles.

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clipped on: 03.07.2012 at 04:45 pm    last updated on: 03.07.2012 at 04:45 pm

RE: Want to give someone tomato seeds :) (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: suncitylinda on 02.26.2012 at 06:48 pm in Growing Tomatoes Forum

Knapps Fresh Veggies and The Sample Seed shop (Google, both online) sell small packs (15-20seeds) for less than $1.25 each. Shipping is reasonable and both have a good reputation. I have ordered many times from both, and there is no minimum order. Also, keep in mind tomato seeds stay viable for a long time. I still start seeds from 2003-2005. Good luck, LInda

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clipped on: 03.06.2012 at 03:33 pm    last updated on: 03.06.2012 at 03:34 pm

RE: Winter sowing pays off again. (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: tiffy_z5_6_can on 06.05.2010 at 09:02 pm in Winter Sowing Forum

Trudi,

We placed an add on Kijiji which is probably the equivalent of Craig's here. We also made about 20 flyers and placed 10 in corner/convenience stores and another 10 on 'communal' mailboxes.

I also have access to a few gardeners... Became the president of our garden club this year. :O)

Lynne,
"... to pay for your indulgences". The chocolate bar I treated myself to after the sale was delicious!! Oh, and yes, a few small dollars will be set aside to spend on gardening. I need a new shovel.

Tammy,
Nothing was priced higher than $5.00. It's a rule I hold to. The $5.00 plants were hostas, phlox, echinaceas, heliopsis, etc, all winter sown a couple of years back but starting to grow out in some gardens. They were in one gallon pots and most of those went first.

Although this is a photo from last year Pippi, it looked pretty much the same this year. :O)
Photobucket

Piti,
Yep! Setting up would be a problem for you. This is the first time I've thought of an advantage for a lawn!! Could you do it at a local church or something? One of my friends is having her sale next weekend and she uses the church hall and in return donates part of the proceeds from her sale to the church.

Daisy,
I start dividing and potting plants as soon as the end of March appears if weather permits. Hostas are dug up in the fall, potted and placed in a huge leaf pile. When the pile thaws, the hostas come out. More are divided in the spring.

Ahhh, I think I am going to have a great night's sleep tonight and tomorrow I start doing what I truly love to do - working in the gardens at my own pace without a purpose or a care. LOL!!

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clipped on: 02.28.2012 at 02:31 pm    last updated on: 02.28.2012 at 02:31 pm

50 packs of seed.

posted by: token28001 on 12.14.2009 at 03:38 pm in Winter Sowing Forum

With Trudi's permission, I'm gonna host a contest. The winner gets 50 packs of seed from my gardens. These are things I have grown myself or intend to grow this year. They will all be wintersowing candidates, depending on the season. You've seen the pictures, so now grow it yourself.

The Rules:

IN AN EMAIL TO ME THROUGH GARDENWEB, answer the 10 following questions. DO NOT, I repeat, DO NOT ANSWER THEM HERE. I want everyone to get a chance to find their own answers.

The subject of the email should be Contest. That one word, and nothing else in the subject line, please. I'll use it to automatically sort the participants into the appropriate folder. Be sure to include your GW name so I can find you if you're the winner. I don't need your real name, just your screen name.

So, email me the answers to these 10 questions for a chance to win 50 packs of seed.

1. What is Trudi's cat's name?

2. Three examples of plant names ideal for wintersowing.

3. What baked good should the soil be like?

4. Name four common reasons for failure.

5. What is the suggested minimum number of seeds in a trade package?

6. What three organic methods does Trudi recommend for dealing with slugs and snails?

7. What are the four categories of seeds that Trudi sows on Winter Solstice?

8. Name 10 recycled items that can be used for wintersowing.

9. When direct sowing, there are 5 steps necessary for success. Name them.

10. What's the most informative site on wintersowing on the internet? (Not GardenWeb)

That's it. You've got until December 21 to email me with the answers. Out of all the correct answers, I'll pick one lucky winner from a recycled milk jug. He/She will be mailed the seeds on December 22, postage paid by me. Anyone can enter, only one will win. Even Trudi can enter.

For help, visit Wintersown.org. Good luck. I hope to have many names to choose from.

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clipped on: 02.26.2012 at 07:17 pm    last updated on: 02.26.2012 at 07:18 pm