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RE: Backsplash Help. (Follow-Up #21)

posted by: bookworm4321 on 06.09.2014 at 04:33 pm in Kitchens Forum

i am reposting this picture, as i liked them for black/white kitchen. i wish i remembered whose they are.


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clipped on: 06.13.2014 at 03:20 am    last updated on: 06.13.2014 at 03:20 am

RE: Best warm neutral Gray or Greige paint? (Follow-Up #10)

posted by: funcolors on 04.29.2014 at 06:15 pm in Home Decorating & Design Forum

They're called chromatic grays and they are found in every hue family in the spectrum.

For example all of the "grays/greiges" you've listed are hue yellow.

I'll list the Munsell hue family notation for each of the colors and I'll post the color wheel to go with the notations. The notation will tell you exactly how much of an overtone, a hue bias one way or the other, clockwise or counterclockwise on the color wheel.

I put them in order going clockwise so it's easier to follow. So, these are all between 10YR and 7.5Y.

Popular Gray 6071 - 0.38Y
Balanced Beige 7037 - 1.00Y
Anew Gray 7030 - 2.55Y
Amazing Gray 7044 -2.70Y
Accessible Beige 7036 - 3.15Y
Agreeable Gray 7029 - 3.76Y
Analytical Gray 7051 - 4.14Y
Useful Gray 7050 - 6.78Y

This post was edited by funcolors on Tue, Apr 29, 14 at 18:36


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clipped on: 04.29.2014 at 11:26 pm    last updated on: 04.29.2014 at 11:26 pm

RE: More on the north facing LR (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: kellienoelle on 04.29.2014 at 11:21 pm in Home Decorating & Design Forum

I agree to paint the trim a different color than the walls. If you have all that gorgeous trim why not highlight it! A yellow based tan that I had in my old house that was a pretty color in both direct sunlight and in shadows is SW Ivoire. I'll link to a pic

Here is a link that might be useful: Ivoire


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clipped on: 04.29.2014 at 11:24 pm    last updated on: 04.29.2014 at 11:24 pm

Final Reveal - Majra's Two-Toned Kitchen

posted by: Majra on 06.27.2013 at 06:33 am in Kitchens Forum

Before

 photo image_zpsdc2c1649.jpg
 photo image_zps3a94bf6d.jpg

After
 photo 01-R80_2455_zpsc47a0afc.jpg
 photo 02-R80_2458_zps307ca497.jpg

Details

Schuler cabinetry, Manhattan door style. Colors are Divinity for uppers and Eage Rock Sable Glaze for lowers.
Curava recycled glass countertop in color Savaii, waterfall edge on peninsula
Walker Zanger wall tile, style Waterfall
Bosch dual-fuel slide-in range
Bosch over-the-stove microwave
Bosch dishwasher
Samsung counter-depth French door fridge
Kraus sink
Delta faucet
GE reverse-osmosis system (drives me crazy that its chrome)
Amerock cabinet pulls
Allen & Roth pendants, right off the shelf at Lowe's
Lowe's one-light door to pantry

Our home has an open floor plan, and the kitchen was the last corner to get a make-over. We did not change the layout or footprint of the kitchen because we have lived here for a decade and it works for me. I also love having a peninsula.

The house is not large (2300 sf) so it was vital that the kitchen flow with the rest of the "rooms" (DR, LR, FR). These next wide-angle shots show how the new kitchen integrates into the rest of the space. I was aiming for a soft, airy, tranquil, unique, modernized, tone-on-tone aesthetic.
 photo 03-R80_2444_zpsc19f7db6.jpg
 photo 04-R80_2441_zpsa12bc544.jpg
 photo 05-R80_2439_zps8e597fa3.jpg
 photo 06-R80_2427_zps5ce2b716.jpg
 photo 08-R80_2432_zpsc35fc22a.jpg

Random sink shot
 photo 10-R80_2436_zps11cc6f18.jpg

Thank you GWers who kept me company during the renovation!

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clipped on: 08.03.2013 at 11:10 pm    last updated on: 04.20.2014 at 01:19 pm

Design options U Shape or L shape?

posted by: jjnv on 06.25.2012 at 04:11 pm in Kitchens Forum

Hi all,

We are in the process of purchasing a bank owned property as our primary home. I attached the picture of the existing kitchen. It had an island but was taken by the previous owner. The kitchen is 162" wide (bottom of the U) and 152" long with a window that is 72" wide on the left side.

My KD suggested making it a U shape kitchen with pantry cabinet, frig and wall oven on the right side. I will still have space for an island that is about (84"x36"). That is my plan A. I've been working with this plan and price cabinets. It seems to cost more than I plan to pay for the kind of quality I want. The plan has lots of cabinets.

Then today, I spotted this picture on GW and kept going back to it. Sorry I am not even sure which thread I originally got it from and whose kitchen it is. I am thinking what if I make my kitchen L shaped. The cabinet cost will be much less. But I will have to lose my wall oven and I don't have a place for microwave either. I can also really use the pantry cabinet since there is no pantry in this house.

I'd love to find out what GW experts think? L shape or U shape?

Thanks a lot,

Jane

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clipped on: 04.20.2014 at 01:07 pm    last updated on: 04.20.2014 at 01:09 pm

What's the biggest sink that can fit into Ikea cabinet?

posted by: bonzai80305 on 12.09.2013 at 11:31 am in Kitchens Forum

Does anyone know the dimensions of the biggest sink that can fit into an Ikea 30" base cabinet? I'm looking for the biggest undermount, single basin, stainless sink I can find that will fit into my cabinet.

I understand that you can shave the sides a bit to fit in 30" sinks but that if the sinks are 10" deep then they will interfere with the hinges. If I use a 9" sink will I still have this problem? Will a 28" sink that is 10" deep work?

Thanks for your help! I know I could go to Ikea to measure this, but my Ikea is really far away.

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clipped on: 12.10.2013 at 12:36 pm    last updated on: 12.10.2013 at 12:41 pm

Beautful, tough Laminate

posted by: DearMrsRobinson on 12.09.2013 at 04:33 pm in Flooring Forum

Hello! I always research on this site, so I thought it was about time I give back and share my experiences. We recently replaced all our flooring. Kitchen area is getting tile (as we speak), and the rest of the house has new beautiful laminate. I would have loved real wood, but the cost and maintenance does not work for us (2 dogs- one who weighs 180lbs and can scratch a diamond if given the chance). We looked everywhere, and a lot of people were pushing towards real wood- which I understand, but doesn't work for everyone. So here's a post about a great laminate flooring. We went with Ayos Hazlenut, and it is gorgeous! (http://www.bausenflooring.com/collection-ayos) Our installer typically works in very high end homes, and even he LOVES this stuff. I also spent weeks finding the perfect match for a flush stair nose- it's Eternity's Whiskey Sapele. The overlapping stair nose cheapens the look IMO and even though it is laminate, it doesn't have to look cheap. So there's my .02!

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clipped on: 12.09.2013 at 04:46 pm    last updated on: 12.09.2013 at 04:46 pm

RE: Need a "warm" blue paint (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: weedyacres on 11.20.2013 at 05:44 pm in Home Decorating & Design Forum

It's not painted yet, but we had the same color in the last house and are bringing it to this one. Here's a photo of our previous dining room. It's the wall in the background, not the foreground/entrance.
 photo 100_0620.jpg

It's SW Wool Skein, which looks brown here but IRL it's greenish. Really. :-):


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clipped on: 11.23.2013 at 01:01 am    last updated on: 11.23.2013 at 01:01 am

Make-up air dilemma - WWYD?

posted by: Mgoblue85 on 11.19.2013 at 06:28 pm in Kitchens Forum

Grrrr... I knew it was too good to be true. The reno was going just a little too smoothly and sure enough - bam! Naturally, the state of MI or at least my city enforces the makeup air requirement for any anything above 400 CFMs. The cost for makeup air for my 1200 CFM internal blower hood is crazy ridiculous and not an option. My house is a 65 ranch and not air tight by any means, so what would you do???

Switch out the blower - any ideas on a 400 CFM blower for a 42" hood?

Buy a different hood - any ideas on a wall mounted hood with a 400 CFM blower? I won't have wall cabs.

I'm curious about other alternatives that you have done whether temporary or permanent. I'm having a hard time finding anything 400 or less that isn't under cabinet mount. Appreciate any help!!

Btw - range is a 36" all burner BS. Will x-post on Appliances to cover all bases.

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clipped on: 11.20.2013 at 12:14 am    last updated on: 11.20.2013 at 12:15 am

RE: thank you GW - before and after (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: Pierrepont on 11.11.2013 at 01:41 pm in Kitchens Forum

love our Bluestar


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clipped on: 11.13.2013 at 08:37 am    last updated on: 11.13.2013 at 08:37 am

Help! Backsplash is back ordered and need help picking new one!

posted by: ChristinL_rwc on 11.09.2013 at 11:39 am in Kitchens Forum

The New Revenna Raj Mosiac Paperwhite tile is back ordered again til Mid December. Does anyone have a suggestion for a herringbone/chevron carrera backsplash? What I liked about raj was the different widths of tile in the Mosiac and the shine.

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clipped on: 11.10.2013 at 03:38 pm    last updated on: 11.10.2013 at 03:38 pm

As Promised, Link to Terrific Baseboard Install Trick!

posted by: Baroo2u on 10.26.2013 at 12:49 pm in Home Decorating & Design Forum

I'm sure I'm not alone in my inability to install trim without gaps. Recently I redid the trim in the mbdrm. I decided Enough is Enough, I'm Doing This Right! (and by "right" I mean "so it looks good" without utilizing enough caulking on gaps to waterproof the hole in theTitanic and refloat her, without investing 20 years in becoming an expert finish carpenter)

Enter the Family Handyman website. Lots of straightforward pics. My problem has always been tilting inside corners on baseboard. Yeah, I know you're s'posed to cope, not mitre. I suck at coping so I mitre...and the bottom of my baseboard gaps at the joint.

Family Handy gives a trick that involves placing a screw in the wall near the corner, then adjusting it in or out to remove the gap in the joint. He describes it with a coped joint but it works just as well with a mitred joint...

just be sure both ends are mitre true, not always easy when cuting the end of a long piece that wobbles on the saw! A trick I found to eliminate THIS problem (can't remember where) is to cut your corner pieces first in short sections so they're managable, then bevel longer pieces onto them

P.S. If the attached Link doesn't work for you, Forboystoo has very kindly attached another below!

Here is a link that might be useful: Family Handyman Install Baseboard on Crooked Walls

This post was edited by Baroo2u on Sat, Oct 26, 13 at 14:27

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clipped on: 10.26.2013 at 03:30 pm    last updated on: 10.26.2013 at 03:39 pm

RE: Installing hardwood over concrete in highrise (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: MiaOKC on 10.24.2013 at 11:05 am in Flooring Forum

Heather, we are getting ready to install hardwood over concrete on our second floor. We've bought an underlayment called Elastilon and are very excited about it, but haven't started our install just yet to tell you how it's worked for us. But I have read lots of good things and can't wait! It is supposed to feel "solid" underfoot, not like a laminate or hollow sound you might get from a click-together floating floor. It is technically a floating floor, but look into it, you might like that option. If we were going to have a professional do it, there are other options such as installing a wood subfloor first (but this will build up the height of the floor and you might have problems with low ceilings or transitions into other rooms like tiled bathroom or kitchen), and some installers might even glue hardwood down to the concrete - that is not recommended by all installers, there are a lot of factors such as species, location, humidity, etc, that could affect that choice. One installer would do it for us but recommended using only "shorts" which are short pieces of hardwood.

If you plan to remove the vinyl tiles you may want to test them for asbestos. We have some vinyl tiles in the bonus room over our garage but are planning to go over them with the Elastilon because we don't want to deal with the removal with possible asbestos (house built in 1975). Good luck!

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clipped on: 10.26.2013 at 12:35 am    last updated on: 10.26.2013 at 12:36 am

Those last 1% of finishing details can take forever (DW)

posted by: gooster on 10.25.2013 at 02:11 pm in Kitchens Forum

It seems like in any project, that final 1% of the finishing details can take forever. We finished up the kitchen, at 99% completed, in June. Now, at the end of October, the final details are coming into place. The original DW panel was ordered too narrow -- even though the KD knew this could be a tricky detail. This small little detail was bugging me for quite some time.

Finally the reordered panel has arrived and is installed! (As a future reminder for GWers, always check to make sure your custom DW panel is 1/4" less than your actual opening, no matter what the template says).

Now, just wondering what we should do about the toe kicks -- leave them as standard or try to make them like the rest of the furniture toe kicks. (So maybe we are still not 100% done!) For reference, the old reveal is Here.

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clipped on: 10.25.2013 at 02:48 pm    last updated on: 10.25.2013 at 02:49 pm

RE: Kitchen paint colors...need outside opinions. (Follow-Up #16)

posted by: BlackChamois on 10.23.2013 at 10:36 pm in Kitchens Forum

I just painted my dining room and living room Edgecomb Gray and I would NOT consider it a "gray" but more of a beige. The name is deceiving.

Revere Pewter had a greenish cast in my house.

Gray Owl is nice, as is Stonington Gray.


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clipped on: 10.24.2013 at 12:06 pm    last updated on: 10.24.2013 at 12:06 pm

RE: white kitchen/soapstone/marble - reveal! (Follow-Up #16)

posted by: bridgetmalone on 10.23.2013 at 04:33 pm in Kitchens Forum

thanks everyone!

Paint color on cabinets is BM super white, walls is SW linen cloth. Paint choices are the worst! Or maybe that is grout choices???

Faucet is Rohl Cinquata in polished nickel.

The shallow pantry was a great choice and my requirement was that it could hold a big box of cheerios, which it does. Anything deeper and I would be losing things.


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clipped on: 10.24.2013 at 12:02 am    last updated on: 10.24.2013 at 12:02 am

Calacatta tile from Home Depot matches real slab perfectly!

posted by: jacqueline5 on 10.19.2013 at 02:14 am in Bathrooms Forum

Hi!

We are doing a forced remodel of our master bath due to a flood. It has not been a happy experience. However, due to the wonderful info generously shared on this forum, I think the new bathroom will be even more beautiful than the last!

This picture is of my bathroom elements. Slab: real Calacatta Oro countertop and shower curb material. Tile is 18x18 porcelain floor and walls from Home Depot! Accent tile is Mother of Pearl from Builder Elements. Com. The little tile is a biscuit tile to represent the color of the claw foot tub, toilet and sinks.

I can not thank this forum enough especially Kali2024 and beekeeperswife for sharing their enthusiasm and experience with Calacatta Porcelain tile. I found my dream slab today and because I paid less than $2 sf for my floor and wall tile from HD and the amazing price from Builder Elements on the MOP, I can afford my real calacatta slab counter!

Just had to share. Will post updates as soon as the tile guy starts installing and my granite guys start fabricating.

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clipped on: 10.23.2013 at 01:32 pm    last updated on: 10.23.2013 at 01:33 pm

HELP! Cabinet door hitting appliances

posted by: kitchenredo2013 on 10.16.2013 at 07:52 am in Kitchens Forum

I just had a new kitchen installed. I love it. It's cherry with a rosewood finish. Anyway some cabinet doors are banging into adjacent appliances etc.
my cabinet guy suggested either chain on the hinges or a special hinge adapter-not sure what it is or looks like- so that it stops before hitting. What have you all done? All suggestions are appreciated as i don't want to ruin my huge investment.

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clipped on: 10.16.2013 at 01:45 pm    last updated on: 10.16.2013 at 01:45 pm

RE: Shaker drawer - how much room for hardware? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: illinigirl on 10.16.2013 at 09:29 am in Kitchens Forum

I'm going to do slab fronts on the top drawers. I read that any drawer over 8" should be 5 piece (paneled) so logic tells me that anything under 8" would be slab, HOWEVER it is also a taste preference as some people choose 5 piece on all drawers. I do not know if people typically choose a smaller trim size. I am going to follow the convention of anything under 8" is slab (which is what my cabinet designer implemented without me even asking).


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clipped on: 10.16.2013 at 01:42 pm    last updated on: 10.16.2013 at 01:42 pm

RE: Color gurus! Wall color help needed please (Follow-Up #14)

posted by: linelle on 10.16.2013 at 11:17 am in Kitchens Forum

I'm with homebuyer. I have SW Antique White in every room of my house (except the MBR and bath), including the kitchen. I even have it on my ceilings. Depending on the light, it ranges between luscious french vanilla to deep beige, but it always lets other elements in the room take center stage. In my kitchen it's one of several whites that layer and texture together. It has more of a gold than yellow influence. I haven't found any colors it doesn't like.

Consider the light in the room! On paper the plum looks great, but it is so dark.

I love the first pattern that AnnieD has shown. I'd want my walls to be more like that background.


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clipped on: 10.16.2013 at 12:05 pm    last updated on: 10.16.2013 at 12:12 pm

RE: LED recessed cans guide for kitchen ... (Follow-Up #137)

posted by: calumin on 07.25.2013 at 05:39 pm in Lighting Forum

@homebuyer23 - yes those are the right ones. These lights come both with traditional Edison connectors (like regular light bulbs) and GU24 connectors (which are newer and mostly used if they are required by your city codes) -- make sure you get the right ones.

Home Depot doesn't sell a can that works with this light. You have to buy that separately, probably online. There are two kinds of cans -- "retrofit" and "new construction" -- and refer to the way they are installed in your ceiling. Your contractor will know which ones you need. There are threads that say what cans are compatible with this light but Cree doesn't make one (they do for 6"). The Cree spec says a compatible can needs to be at least 3.5" tall and between 3.9" and 4.1" in inner diameter. Generally you want a can that is ICAT(insulation contact airtight). The can should cost $10-15 each.

You should get a special LED or low-voltage dimmer. The link below shows a list of dimmers tested to be compatible with this light.

Cree CR4 Dimmer Compatibility List

Your contractor probably thinks LED is more expensive because the Home Depot Cree lights brought down the cost of LED substantially, and he's probably not aware of it.

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clipped on: 10.16.2013 at 09:50 am    last updated on: 10.16.2013 at 10:34 am

RE: Pantry missing - seeking suggestions (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: dilly_ny on 10.15.2013 at 09:14 am in Kitchens Forum

I think it may be nicer to have the built ins. You could put custom cabinetry (which will undoubtably be very pricey) or you could frame it in sheet rock as two closets or a wall of closets.

Wall of cabinetry:

Or it wouldn't have to be pantries per se. Nice storage for dining area:

Or how about closed pantries on each side of a nice looking cabinet in the middle:

Or how about havong a little bench to use on one side of your dining table?


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clipped on: 10.15.2013 at 11:45 am    last updated on: 10.15.2013 at 11:45 am

RE: Any preference between 4" or 6" recessed lights?? (Follow-Up #24)

posted by: beverly27 on 10.01.2013 at 02:52 pm in Kitchens Forum

I used 6" in the center of my kitchen, 4" over my sink & pass thru area, and 4" eyeballs to accent my shelving. There is no reason to use all one size recessed fixture. Use what works & don't turn your ceiling into swiss cheese.

Frankly, after 3 years with this kitchen the lights that are turned on most often are the two over the counter that divides the kitchen from my great room. I only use the ones over the sink when I'm cleaning and almost never use the lighting down the center of the kitchen.

The light that is on even after the kitchen is closed is the one over the range. That one light provides enough illumination for almost anything going on in the kitchen.

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clipped on: 10.03.2013 at 12:40 pm    last updated on: 10.03.2013 at 12:40 pm

RE: Two questions about refrigerator placement and size (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: buehl on 09.28.2013 at 11:01 pm in Kitchens Forum

You could use 3 or 4 inches of filler b/w the top of the refrigerator and the bottom of the cabinet above. That way, if you need to take the filler out for a taller refrigerator down the road, the cabinet will still be fine. (This is what we did.)

The other option is to leave a 4- to 6-inch opening b/w the top of the refrigerator and the bottom of the cab above and store baskets or other large but nice/neat items in that "niche".

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clipped on: 09.29.2013 at 02:53 pm    last updated on: 09.29.2013 at 03:00 pm

RE: Alternatives to Kohler Stages sink? (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: Peke on 09.26.2013 at 12:22 pm in Kitchens Forum

I love my Ruvati 8300 sink. Much better price too. I would not have used the rack on the Kohler.

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clipped on: 09.29.2013 at 12:20 pm    last updated on: 09.29.2013 at 12:20 pm

4" LED bulb to match Cree from Home Depot?

posted by: dad4diy on 09.27.2013 at 12:50 am in Lighting Forum

I absolutely love the new Cree A19 and BR30 light bulbs sold at Home Depot. I used them in my 5" cans for a kitchen remodel. However, they don't have a PAR30 bulb yet for my 4" cans. Does anyone know of a 4" LED bulb in another brand that will match the look of the Cree bulbs? I am using the warm white 2700K bulbs. Thanks!

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clipped on: 09.29.2013 at 12:26 am    last updated on: 09.29.2013 at 12:27 am

RE: White Kitchen Reveal (long post with photos) (Follow-Up #27)

posted by: lovetogarden_oak on 09.27.2013 at 05:45 pm in Kitchens Forum

Wow, thanks so much EVERYONE, for your enthusiastic responses and good wishes. it sure made me feel so warm and fuzzy inside!

Lirodendron and linelle, thank you for letting me know that many of the photos are not in right orientation and some are even upside down. Boohoo! Not sure what to do about that as tinypic.com seems to turn my vertical photos horizontal after it uploaded the image taken on my Ipad (but when I clicked on the image again after the upload, it righted itself.) I pasted the html tag to post the photos. So, maybe tinypic does something to the images? I should just get myself a photobucket account.

My sincere apologies to those of you who have to turn your head sideways and perhaps some acrobatic movements to view the photos.

On a lighter note, thank you so much for loving our new window! We are so glad we decided on replacing the old aluminum window. That decision took a while to make as it wasn't budgeted at first. Heck, everything took a while to decide, except for the garbage disposal :)

For the countertop, I was at first unclear whether we are marble people or not (i.e. ok with patina or need countertop looks new after years of use). I have a soft spot for the look and feel of marble especially Calacatta Oro. The trouble is I was afraid to commit. DH (bless his heart!) encouraged me to go for it. After much angst and soul-searching (do I deserve it, etc:) I am so glad I gave myself permission to go for it.

Firsthouse_mp, we are indeed in kitchen heaven! There are so much more counterspace now than the old kitchen as things have a place to go (like the oils, soy sauce, toaster, etc.) and not hogging counter space real-estate. Interestingly, although there's more counterspace for the three cooks in the house (we make our meals together), we often found ourselves in a traffic jam at the 28" wide sink (smaller than the old double sink we had before.) Lol! We didn't anticipate that!

Kam76, our uppers are 42" tall, divided into two parts: 12" for the upper part that has glass door, and 30" for the lower part with regular door. The single uppers to the left and right of the hood, and the one nearest the window are 18" wide. The only wide upper is 36" wide. All has painted finish inside, which matches the exterior paint.

Steph2000, we didn't tweak our cabinet order to accommodate the IKEA rationell drawers because we didn't use them inside the InnerMost cabinets, except in the sink base. The stack of IKEA drawers in the custom pantry fit well because we basically measured IKEA akurum 15" base cabinet, and designed our pantry to fit the rationell drawers (interior dimensions: 13.5" w x 22" d x 64" h). My carpenter figured out the IKEA shelf-pin measurements and used a jig to drill the shelf-pin holes. I wanted to post the photo of the pantry before the drawers were installed so you can get a sense of my description above, but tinypic is again turning my vertical photo sideways. I will try a different photo posting method.

Lothia, sideways kitchen...Lol. I now get it! At the time we purchased our cabinetry, InnerMost didn't offer a pull out drawer that works for an undersink trash system. I don't know if that has changed or not. For under the sink setup, Inner Most only offers (at the time) a pull-out caddy for storing cleaning supplies. As space is tight in our kitchen, we didn't want to lose a base cabinet for trash and recycling purposes. I will post some photos to show our setup of installing the IKEA rationell drawer under the sink. We were inspired by morton5's undersink trash pull out from this post :
http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/kitchbath/msg111733195143.html

Smiling, the wall color does read blue-grey than grey in person.

Thanks again everyone for your enthusiasm! We wouldn't have accomplished our kitchen reno, loving the results of our work, without the help of this amazing GW community!


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clipped on: 09.27.2013 at 06:11 pm    last updated on: 09.28.2013 at 12:32 am

Finished Kitchen - 20 pounds of sand in a 10 pound bucket

posted by: mamadadapaige on 10.29.2012 at 08:19 am in Kitchens Forum

Hi,
Not sure if you remember last spring when I was working on the layout of my kitchen... super long list of stuff I had to get in there and a very challenging floorplan with a chimney and two staircases to work around.

You were all so helpful during that time and more recently too with lighting decisions.

My number one priority was seating for four and also being able to have the kids work with me - the peninsula allows both of those and it is working out SO well. I also love having so much more natural light coming in with two new windows (although the windows mean less wall cabinet space but I love having the light so I would still opt for this).

Here are some before pictures:
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And After Pictures
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clipped on: 09.25.2013 at 12:46 pm    last updated on: 09.25.2013 at 12:46 pm

RE: Finished Kitchen: FINALLY!!! (lots of pictures) (Follow-Up #37)

posted by: tashamh2 on 12.21.2012 at 06:40 am in Kitchens Forum

Oh my goodness! Thank you, thank you, Everyone, for your kind words. I feel all warm and fuzzy inside. Sooooo, the family loves the house. My mom can't wait to cook in the kitchen. And, my dad put a nice long black mark on the stairwell wall as he was carrying their luggage upstairs. Oh well! Now the house is truly lived in!

Trailrunner - Thanks for asking about the rest of the house. I added more photos to the end of this post.

a2gemini - I hope you believe in the saying that imitation is the greatest form of flattery. :-) Plus, I'm too lazy to reinvent the wheel. I love your kitchen. Because I have been so focused on my renovation project, I haven't kept on top of GW posts. I'm going to spend the holidays perusing the site and gushing over all the finished kitchens. In terms of the tea kettle, I really like that it's small and boils water quickly. What I don't particularly care for is the handle design. Pouring out the water while pressing the handle is kind of awkward. But, I wouldn't hesitate to buy it again because of the color.

Chicgeek - I bought those stools on Amazon.com for $35 each (24 inch AZ Saddle Counter Stool). They came in red and I spray painted them Sage Green (Rustoleum spray paint from Home Depot). Let me tell you, I have never spray painted anything in my life, but it was so easy to spray paint those stools. I read up on the process and just took the plunge. I think the key is patience, using a primer, 2 light coats of paint and finishing it off with polyurethane. I, however, wouldn't recommend taking on this project during the winter...like I did...because the paint will crack if it's below 50 degrees.

Marti8a - I was feeling woefully inadequate and overwhelmed when I saw other people's spice drawers/racks. But then the idea came to me when I began to use those Ikea utensil drawer dividers. Ikea has deep drawer organizers for $15 (I believe) that you have to order from a salesperson like you do the cabinet boxes. I assembled 3 of those dividers and organized the spices by spice category, i.e., Italian spices, Indian spices, everyday spices, etc. We'll see if it works. I think labeling the tops of the bottles would help visiting cooks. We'll see if I ever get around to doing that. Haha!

Kailuamom - Thank you so much. I would do it all over again in a heartbeat. I love that I was able to save money and still end up with a nice kitchen. The trick to Scherr is building the kitchen and then ordering the Scherr doors. I fought with my contractor about this because it was going to take a very long time - 2 1/2 months - for the doors to come in. But as we were building the kitchen, we found other ways to arrange the cabinet boxes to make it more functional. AND, we discovered that Ikea horizontal cabs are a hair wider than their wall cabs. Overall, it takes a lot of time and detail to order separate doors (see pic below), but Tanner at Scherr was just absolutely amazing to work with. We communicated by email for about 10 months, trading those Ikea kitchen print outs. The only glitch was that two sets of doors were the wrong size and I had to wait another month for the replacement doors. Other than that, everything came in perfectly. In terms of cost, if I had gone with Adel doors with glass horizontal cabs, it would have been $6000. With Scherr doors, it ended up being $13,000. And, the quote from Great Indoors for Diamond cabinetry was $28,000 without the W/D doors.

Badgergal - I've read on this site about post-reno blues. Just like everyone else, my energy and time have gone into renovating my house for the last 12 months. It feels weird to come home and not have to jump on the computer to hunt down a reasonable priced light fixture or faucet. So, I'm fighting the urge to take on another project. I am determined to relax and enjoy my new house. And, thanks for your help with the pulls. I couldn't find the Hickory Hardware in a local store and the prices online were outside of my budget.

tbb123 - I completely agree! I can't remember if it was Marcolo who knocked some sense into me by telling me I was all over the place and needed to take my time to plan out my kitchen. My kitchen would have been a hot mess had I moved forward with my earlier plans. Thank goodness for GW and the honest feedback.

Rosie - I think I will be in the second camp. If the kitchen I lived with for 11 years is any indication, I will likely live with that spice drawer for 11 more years. Ha!

Chiefy76 - Yes, my contractor is an Ikea pro. His own kitchen is from Ikea. When I got quotes from other contractors, they were going to charge more for having to assemble an Ikea kitchen. There are a lot of boxes and gadgets, but it took them about 2 days to build the cabinet boxes and another 2 days or so to put up the Scherr doors. I've added a URL to a post with pictures of my Ikea cabinet boxes.

alex9179 - yes, I'm curious about how this kitchen will perform, especially the area near the refrigerator. I went back and forth about whether putting the refrigerator so close to the peninsula would create a bottleneck. We shall see....

These are pictures of the basement apartment. Converting the basement was the best decision ever. It added a significant boost to my home value, I found a great tenant in 1 day and the rent covers most of my monthly mortgage payment.

Here's a picture of the front of the house. I replaced the ugly wood door with a glass door that's painted red.

I added a bathroom to my bedroom by taking space off of the middle bedroom.


Still left on the renovation list is adding radiator covers and replacing the living room light fixture. Any suggestions? That's the original light fixture but it doesn't go with the rest of the house.

Wow, this was a long post. Sorry about that.

I hope everyone has a wonderful holiday season!!!

Here is a link that might be useful: Ikea...Would you do it again?


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IKEA kitchen - Scherrs doors

Look at the shower....

clipped on: 09.25.2013 at 12:19 pm    last updated on: 09.25.2013 at 12:21 pm

Kitchen Chandelier -- Please Vote!

posted by: erinct on 08.14.2011 at 11:09 am in Kitchens Forum

We're pretty sure we're going with the following chandelier over our eat-in-kitchen table (rectangle table yet to be selected):

Photobucket

Which chandelier do you think works better for over the kitchen island? The areas are open to each other.

This chandelier is from the same collection as the eat-in-kitchen one, but I'm a bit worried it might be too "heavy" looking for over the island (i.e., it has solid glass globes on it so it's not as see-through):

Photobucket

This one seems more not-in-your-face but I'm not sure how it goes with the eat-in-kitchen one. I originally wanted a crystal chandelier, but then thought it might be too dressy for our space. This might be a nice compromise?!? It's a bit hard to see and all the crystals haven't been hung yet.

Photobucket

Photobucket

Other options/ideas welcome! I think our electrician is coming back next week, so if I can use one of these I'd like too, but I can also try to put him off if I need to order another one!

Thanks so much for your help and thoughts!!!

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clipped on: 09.23.2013 at 12:40 pm    last updated on: 09.23.2013 at 12:41 pm

Backsplash Preview Ann Sacks Lucian in Slate

posted by: lucas_tx on 09.22.2013 at 08:24 pm in Kitchens Forum

2x12 glass subways
Grout is Fusion Pro Linen

Always hard to get color right in the photos but this is the closest. I think the grout has more tan color than this, need to grab some during daylight.

We're 99.99% finished now but really busy at work so will do a full reveal when I get more time.

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clipped on: 09.23.2013 at 12:24 pm    last updated on: 09.23.2013 at 12:25 pm

RE: Slide in Range Dilemma with Countertop - Please Advise (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: laurajane02 on 07.10.2013 at 09:48 am in Kitchens Forum

In that photo, it looks like the counter may be flush with the cabinets (no overhang). You might want to check if it's just the ogee edge that will be an issue, or will the overhang prevent your range from sliding all the way in.

My range is the same as this photo (jsweenc's kitchen), and currently sticks out a bit because I don't have the notch in my counter (just like the photo). If I leave it as is, I have a standard sized opening for my range, so I could replace with anything down the road. I'm still debating, but planning to live with it as is for a while to see if I forget about the issue.

With a proper notch in counters:


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clipped on: 09.23.2013 at 12:33 am    last updated on: 09.23.2013 at 12:34 am

my backsplash (Follow-Up #50)

posted by: kompy on 07.31.2013 at 05:26 pm in Kitchens Forum

I got it at The Tile Shop and it's called 3x6 Meram Blanc.

It has a high polish and square cut, not beveled, or chiseled in any way.

It's beautiful!

KOMPY

SEE LINK BELOW

Here is a link that might be useful: Meram Blanc Tile

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clipped on: 09.22.2013 at 02:14 pm    last updated on: 09.22.2013 at 02:14 pm

RE: Will Adjustable Drawer Divider be useful? (Follow-Up #19)

posted by: berner43 on 05.19.2013 at 09:15 am in Kitchens Forum

Lee Valley carries a drawer divider that you can put in existing drawers. I have them in my bathroom. They are very inexpensive $4.60 for a bag of 10. They are meant to hold 1/4" wood, glass or plexiglass. I will attempt to attach a link!

Here is a link that might be useful: drawer dividers


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clipped on: 09.15.2013 at 11:44 pm    last updated on: 09.15.2013 at 11:45 pm

RE: Do You like This Chair and Table Together? (Follow-Up #20)

posted by: KevinMP on 09.13.2013 at 07:55 am in Home Decorating & Design Forum

I like them together, but the chairs are sort of heavy looking (particularly in the black). I think a simpler looking chair with detail would work better. Martha Stewart used to have a line of furniture through Bernhardt. You can still buy some of the leftover stock new through eBay. Here are two that I think would work if you could get the sellers to split the chairs or sell you chairs separately from the sets they've compiled. Both come in black (I like the second ones better, but I have no idea whether the seller would do it and what the stock is). I would use upholstered head chairs with that table.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Bernhardt-Furniture-Martha-Stewart-North-River-Cherry-Dining-Set-Sideboard-/221271764361?pt=Dining_Sets&hash=item3384d32d89

Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Bernhardt-Martha-Stewart-Cannondale-Drop-Leaf-Dining-Table-Chair-Set-NEW-/221271764368?pt=Dining_Sets&hash=item3384d32d90

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clipped on: 09.14.2013 at 03:58 am    last updated on: 09.14.2013 at 03:58 am

RE: how many trips to IKEA to view cabs? (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: beverly27 on 09.09.2013 at 07:09 pm in Kitchens Forum

You'll want to go a first to become familiar with what is available. I recommend you bring a camera and take pictures because you're going to want to refer to things you saw in IKEA vignettes that are never explained in the brochure.

For example, I wanted a tall cabinet with pull out drawers to act as my pantry, because I had seen it at the store. There is nothing in any IKEA brochure that tells you how to do this. I had to order the basic frame and then additional parts to assemble it, and I wouldn't have been able lay this out using the Kitchen Planner, I had to consult with one of the staff to figure out exactly what to order.

Buying a door to check color and finish is a must. You'll also need it to coordinate your counter top selections, hardware, backsplash etc. You'll also need to view all the additional add on pieces that complete an IKEA kitchen like, drawer dividers, recycling bins, pot racks, plate racks, spice racks etc.

Either you or your KD will want to use the IKEA Kitchen Planner, because, it will print out a shopping list of parts for your order. It's essential.

I understand that IKEA now may have their own installers, but the last time I priced an IKEA kitchen to be installed by the IKEA 'authorized installer', the labor to install was more than double the cost of the cabinets. My IKEA is 132 miles away and I made 4 trips back and forth to get my kitchen complete.


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clipped on: 09.13.2013 at 01:56 pm    last updated on: 09.13.2013 at 01:56 pm

RE: 2 contractors have begged me not to use IKEA cabs (Follow-Up #12)

posted by: writersblock on 09.13.2013 at 11:42 am in Kitchens Forum

That link goes in circles now, scrappy. Here's a direct link to the video on youtube, where you can see how easy it is when an impossibly perfect family with impossibly perfect children installs ikea in an impossibly perfectly squared off room.

If your contractor hasn't used ikea before, the willingness to watch this video is a good test for whether or not he should be installing your cabinets.

Here is a link that might be useful: ikea installation video


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clipped on: 09.13.2013 at 12:57 pm    last updated on: 09.13.2013 at 12:57 pm

RE: Final Reveal - Majra's Two-Toned Kitchen (Follow-Up #84)

posted by: Majra on 09.10.2013 at 02:12 am in Kitchens Forum

Thank you for the kind compliments, SaltLake. Romy, our outdoor space went through a big transformation too...not a kitchen, but here's a quick before & after. I have dining for 8 under the open roof, and the 24 ft of glass along the back of the house really brings the outside in, making my house feel much bigger than it used to.

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ranch roof line raised up
clipped on: 09.10.2013 at 11:32 am    last updated on: 09.10.2013 at 11:32 am

RE: Pull down faucet under cabinet (Follow-Up #10)

posted by: thew60 on 09.08.2013 at 08:58 pm in Kitchens Forum

OK folks, stay with me. I have dome some homework to see what will work here.

The Moen Arbor has a pullout at 12 1/8 tall
Grohe Ladylux cafe at 13.5"
Grohe Bridgeford at 14 1/8 (a pull down and comes in ORB as well)

What are your experiences with the Grohe's ?? and specifically the above models.

Thanks again!!


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clipped on: 09.09.2013 at 01:05 am    last updated on: 09.09.2013 at 01:05 am

RE: Two-Toned Kitchen - 10 days in progress (Follow-Up #62)

posted by: Majra on 06.17.2013 at 06:25 am in Kitchens Forum

Steph 2000, yes the counter looks neutral speckled, it's just that the speckles are larger than what you see in quartz products. We thought we were going to get quartz, but the samples all looked like they would read too blank across my long peninsula. I don't care for granite and didn't want the worries associated with marble, and we loved the glass sample with our cabinetry choices.

Yes that is my LR, which is not looking itself right now (artwork is tucked away for reno). I will try to take a pic of how the kitchen fits with the rest of the decor when the kitchen is complete. When you see the layout you will understand why the kitchen needs to play off these other spaces in the house.

The fridge panels are standard thickness; they just have a 3" filler panel on either side of the fridge's front, beefing up the appearance.

My aisle is 70" wide between the counter edges. While the kitchen layout breaks some Cardinal Rules (I.e. no work triangle), I am quite adept at working it the way it is, and I love having the added counter space that comes with a peninsula (vs island). We had to make the decision about leaving or changing the layout a year ago when we added hardwood throughout the rooms. The kitchen is not large or grand like so many here on GW, but I love my house!

For outlets on the peninsula, we mounted power strips just underneath the countertop, tucked up in the corner of the seating overhang. They are not visible unless you are looking to plug something in. We tend to sit at the counter and use electronic devices, so there are places to charge up. There is a wall outlet right where the wall begins, which I will use for kitchen equipment.

I hope I answered all of your questions. Let me know if I missed anything! Today should be action-packed, and I will hopefully have an operational kitchen by the end of the day!


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clipped on: 09.07.2013 at 06:12 pm    last updated on: 09.07.2013 at 06:13 pm

Finally--finished backsplash...and advice

posted by: annalyn123 on 09.07.2013 at 05:43 pm in Kitchens Forum

My backsplash was completed yesterday. It looks so much nicer in person. It was certainly not trouble-free along the way. At the beginning of the install, I noticed the thinset had a gray tone to it and had watched enough glass video installs to know it should have been whiter. I asked the installer if it was the correct thinset and he said he told his distributor he was doing a glass job and that is what they gave him. He deals with a very reputable distribution center. Knowing it should have been whiter, I checked out the bag and did not see the word "glass" on it. I called Mapei and they said it was the incorrect product. The installer stopped and called his distributor, and sure enough, he was told he was given the wrong bag. Fortunately, I think only about 8 sq. ft. had been installed.
My installer is one of the best and is often called to remove and repair other's mistakes. My advice is to check the thinset and grout (as we know from other's experiences here), regardless of the installer. The major companies like Mapei have a technical person that answers a phone right away and will know if it is the best product for the job. I once read that you should become the expert in your product since there are so many different types of materials, it may be new even to a seasoned and quality installer.

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clipped on: 09.07.2013 at 05:54 pm    last updated on: 09.07.2013 at 05:56 pm

RE: aesthetics of wall mounted hood (Follow-Up #11)

posted by: a2gemini on 09.07.2013 at 04:57 pm in Kitchens Forum

One thing to check on the lower CFM - does it have a center fan or a fan on one side of the vent?
Our 350-450 Broan (OK, we put it in after inspection but it only boosts if the place is massively smoking away...) - but when I took off the filters - the fan is only on the left side...
I might end up replacing this downstream.

I also wish I had gone 2 inches wider than the cooktop - but didn't know any better at the time.


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clipped on: 09.07.2013 at 05:52 pm    last updated on: 09.07.2013 at 05:52 pm

RE: Disappointed with my LED recessed lights ... what now? (Follow-Up #29)

posted by: triphase on 05.30.2011 at 02:50 am in Lighting Forum

I wish I had seen this sooner. The answer to your dimming issues will be solved with an electric low voltage dimmer from lutron. Lutron LN-DVELV-303P.
This will take care of all the LED's out there that have any and all noise and stobe light effect (flashing) The dimmer is a bit pricy but it WILL fix your problem. Even the new Diva's from Home Depot that are LED specific won't stop all the noise and possible flashing issues. We use this dimmer here at tri-phase electric since we install a ton of LED recessed lights. It took a while to figure this all out, but once we did, all the customers were shocked at how good these lights and dimmers are.

Mike


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clipped on: 09.07.2013 at 04:27 pm    last updated on: 09.07.2013 at 04:27 pm

RE: Does this faucet exist? (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: akchicago on 09.04.2013 at 07:47 pm in Kitchens Forum

I'm a fan of the Grohe faucets too. I have one of the Ladyluxe Plus designs. I'm with ya too on the metal hose. Note that some of the Grohe faucets lock on spray, and some you have to keep holding down the button to keep it on spray. It can be difficult to tell from the Grohe website which one does which, so it's best to call the customer service number to make sure. Or go to a showroom that has them on display, if there is one near you.

I suggest you look at the Grohe "Ladylux3 Plus" #33893. In chrome, it costs $350. There are quite a number of Grohe "Ladylux" faucets, but I am recommending this specific one. The specs do say it locks, but you should still call Grohe to make sure. The faucet is a nice "cross" between the cool sleek design of a high-arch faucet, while having the advantages of a pull-out faucet. Those advantages are that a pull-out is less likely to splash, as you've mentioned; and ergonomically I like not having to reach to the back of the sink for the faucet the way you have to with a high-arch style. We have had several threads on this forum in the past about people who get back strain at the sink. One reason is that they have to reach toward the back of the sink to use their high-arch faucet, causing a slight bend in the back/shoulders which leads to aches and pains.

The other thing I like about the Grohe Ladylux line is the lack of crevices where gunk can collect. Many faucets have hinges and decorative rings that, while attractive, can be harder to clean. The Ladylux3 Plus is sleek and smooth. In chrome, this faucet costs about $350.

Here is a link that might be useful: Grohe Ladylux3 Plus Faucet #33893


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clipped on: 09.06.2013 at 04:29 pm    last updated on: 09.06.2013 at 04:29 pm

RE: Shopping for more modern faucet? Please share your pics (Follow-Up #56)

posted by: fredanj on 08.30.2013 at 05:16 am in Kitchens Forum

I was very attracted to the Kohler Karbon, but decided against it because of the two holes in the granite requirement. Also, the size of the hole is non-standard, and I wanted to preserve the option to change faucets without a problem.

So, I got a Cifial Techno faucet, which I am very happy with. It's made in Portugal, very substantial feeling, and it works just great. Very moderately priced. It's a pullout, and I think I might prefer a pulldown, however I'm still happy with it.

Here is a link that might be useful: Cifial techno

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clipped on: 08.30.2013 at 01:38 pm    last updated on: 08.30.2013 at 01:38 pm

RE: Shopping for more modern faucet? Please share your pics (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: jellytoast on 04.19.2013 at 10:45 am in Kitchens Forum

Delta Trinsic ... it has a toggle switch so there is no need to hold down the button for the spray function.

BTW, I saw the Talis S yesterday at Costco for $199.00. (Oops, sorry, that was the Allegro!)

This post was edited by jellytoast on Fri, Apr 19, 13 at 14:47


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clipped on: 08.25.2013 at 12:54 pm    last updated on: 08.25.2013 at 12:54 pm

RE: Timeless wood flooring? (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: Junepo on 06.25.2013 at 12:23 am in Flooring Forum

I am really liking the wide plank floors by Urban Floors. Their Villa Caprisi collection is so beautiful. I am torn between the colors called Calabria (lighter brown) with a slight hint of blue or Verona (closer to cherry wood) or Messina which is a darker brown and very "in" now. I think the darker brown is cool but may be dated soon and it shows all the dirt. So I like the others a bit better, but what's the best bet? Anyone have an opinion? Here's a link to their site with the color choices. Its really nice....IMO.

Here is a link that might be useful: Urban Floors - Villa Caprisi collection


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clipped on: 08.22.2013 at 12:50 pm    last updated on: 08.22.2013 at 12:50 pm

RE: Love the look of Walnut... (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: glennsfc on 08.12.2013 at 08:06 pm in Flooring Forum

The Armstrong Performance Plus line is not what Hartco produced, unfortunately. Armstrong bought Hartco and added a hard and glossy finish to the product.

Nydree bought Permagrain and produces Walnut acrylic impregnated flooring, but I bet it costs a fortune. But, it's worth a look!

Here is a link that might be useful: Nydree flooring...


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clipped on: 08.21.2013 at 11:23 pm    last updated on: 08.21.2013 at 11:23 pm

Mini reveal: White Macauba quartzite counters

posted by: kaysd on 07.17.2013 at 07:11 pm in Kitchens Forum

So, we still have a bit of work to do before I can do a full kitchen reveal, but I have received several requests to see the counters. We used 2 cm White Macauba quartzite throughout the kitchen. The 96" x 54" island has a 2-1/4" mitered edge. The perimeter counters have a 2cm square edge, with a 3/8" recessed reveal below.

I visited a lot of stone yards, a few multiple times, over several months to find white quartzite slabs. Then I walked into Amazon Stones one day to see if they had anything new, and these two amazing book-matched slabs were displayed at the entrance to the yard. They had just arrived the day before, and I slapped a hold on them before anyone else could snatch them.

 photo IMG_8181_zpsef446d24.jpg
 photo IMG_8175_zpsb5147cc5.jpg

We used Davis Stone in Escondido to fabricate the counters. They did an amazing job of matching the veins at the edge on all 4 sides of the island so that it looks like a solid slab of stone, rather than a built-up edge. (Of course, I'm not fooling anyone, because whenever someone comes over, I have to point out the awesome mitered edge.)

 photo IMG_8553_zpsb44ee35f.jpg

We wanted seating on 3 sides of one end of the island. An 18" overhang in 3 directions required some serious support. This is the steel frame Davis Stone built to support the overhang:

 photo IMG_8384_zpsa4ed5834.jpg

I absolutely love these counters - they make me happy every time I walk into the room. I wanted the veined white and gray look of marble, but without the worry. I have 2 little girls (and a husband) who spill, and patina is not my thing. Red wine, balsamic vinegar, citrus, etc. have all been spilled on my counters with no issues so far.

 photo IMG_8556_zpsad82ed87.jpg
 photo IMG_8555_zpsa6df2ee0.jpg
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 photo IMG_8397_zps094670cb.jpg

We have a bay window bumpout, with curved corners, and they did a really good job of scribing the counters to the walls, since I don't want a backsplash on this wall.

 photo IMG_8558_zpscc021084.jpg

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clipped on: 08.21.2013 at 01:25 pm    last updated on: 08.21.2013 at 01:25 pm

Help Identifying this these lights

posted by: 3labs on 08.10.2013 at 08:12 am in Kitchens Forum

Looking for something similar to these for dining room

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clipped on: 08.15.2013 at 04:22 pm    last updated on: 08.15.2013 at 04:22 pm

RE: DW died. Need help with Miele floor models. QUICKLY! (Follow-Up #10)

posted by: deeageaux on 08.10.2013 at 04:29 pm in Appliances Forum

Miele makes filler strips in SS, white or black to put adjacent a Miele Dishwasher installed in an American sized cutout.

Miele GPL771 $57 for the pair.

Here is a link that might be useful: Miele Strips


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clipped on: 08.15.2013 at 02:15 pm    last updated on: 08.15.2013 at 02:18 pm

RE: Kitchen Recessed Can Layout, Opinions please. (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: niteshadepromises on 08.05.2013 at 09:26 pm in Kitchens Forum

If we have a recessed over the island I'll probably position the pendants more towards the seating side of the island and the recessed more towards the sink/DW side. I found a little tidbit online that said

" To determine how far apart to space your recessed lights, divide the height of the ceiling by two. If a room has an 8 foot ceiling, you should space your recessed lights approximately 4 feet apart. If the ceiling is 10 feet, you’ll want to put about 5 feet of space in between each fixture."

Now for 11 feet I'm rounding up rather than down its true. Tho I'm hoping that between the pendants, UCL, and even above counter lighting I'll be a happy camper.


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clipped on: 08.06.2013 at 01:34 am    last updated on: 08.06.2013 at 01:34 am

Interesting Cultivate kitchen� calling steph2000

posted by: mpagmom on 07.15.2013 at 09:07 am in Kitchens Forum

I kind of like cultivate.com. Sometimes it's just a Pottery Barn commercial and sometimes the focus is too heavy on wine country and sometimes the kitchens aren't as functional as they could be, but I usually see interesting kitchens that are a little different. I saw this kitchen and had to share it because the layout is very similar to the one steph2000 has been batting around. I especially wanted her to see the sink under a run of cabinets. I'll link to the entire post below so you can read about the amazing transformation.

Here is a link that might be useful: Chicago remodel on cultivate.com

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clipped on: 08.04.2013 at 02:24 am    last updated on: 08.04.2013 at 02:24 am

Stef2000 - floor question

posted by: hags00 on 11.04.2012 at 08:25 am in Kitchens Forum

I am going to answer your question here since Rhome's thread is huge and I just by chance saw your question.

I too am on a slab and in a cold climate so my goal in my flooring was to get off the cement and not glue anything to it. I also have two 60 lb mutts who always travel at a high rate of speed, meet and greet and skid around corners....floor killers.

I ruled out engineered wood because some could never be refinished and some could only be refinished once.

For my kitchen attached the the entry, I chose Marmoleum Click. After a month the floor killers have already scratched it, it is not extremely noticeable and such is life around here!

For the 1200 sq ft living areas except one small carpeted sunroom, I chose laminate. I looked at tons of brands and decided I wanted single plank for the most realistic look and I wanted something dark (just because I had decades of amber oak floors). I found the look of laminates varied greatly and I searched based on color, pattern of the wood and texture.

I chose Quick Step Rustique Toasted Hickory. I was prepared in all brands to go to their top of their line to get the thickest and "best" but this was my favorite and was reasonably priced, middle line of Quick Step. Only one month in and I am very satisfied with it. No scratches yet from my floor killers.

Being on a slab you have to protect from moisture with a moisture barrier. Under my marmoluem I put 6 mil plastic per the manufactures instructions...a huge pain to work with. Under the Quick Step, I put their own bottom line 2&1 underlayment (combi floor) which provides complete moisture protection and basic sound protection. I wasn't worried too much about the sound because there is no living space below on a slab so I didn't bother with their premium underlayments. Very, very easy to work with and lay. If I had chosen something like Pergo XP with underlayment attached, I would have had to add the 6 mil plastic underneath that.

Another pic below, the blue stuff is the underlayment waiting to be trimmed.

Works well with my lifestyle and the way we "use" a house and I am really satisfied with it.

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clipped on: 08.04.2013 at 12:09 am    last updated on: 08.04.2013 at 12:09 am

Color and Design Commitment Issues

posted by: Steph2000 on 07.27.2011 at 01:19 pm in Kitchens Forum

What I'm realizing as I pour over kitchen inspiration pictures and sift through my mental files and tangible objects I consider "keepers" is that I don't want to make decisions about the kitchen that limit my options for decor in related rooms now or in the future. (We are tearing down a wall so the kitchen will be open to the LR/entrance as well as the DR.) On the other hand, I don't necessarily want bland to be the outcome...

My cabinets are likely going to be white. My floors will be neutral, probably mid-tone brown wood tones. My primary backsplash is window glass and maybe stainless steel over the range, which leaves very little left for tile or paint. So, for me, it's probably all going to come down to the countertop. And while I love the look of so many of the granites/stones/lookalikes, and think some texture would help warm/liven up the space, I'm worried about the countertop being the defining feature for so much of my space for basically forever.

I have a lot of blue and white items that I haven't been using but held on to and have considered using those things (a lot of them admittedly cheap) for an initial launching point for the new kitchen/living room. Navy and other blues are sort of hot right now and so is ikat, which might mean I could pull a fresh look together relatively easily and affordably using a blue/cream/white color scheme. I like the idea of it for now, but don't necessarily want to be locked in for life to any particular color - or even limited to cool versus warm tones.

Have you made design/material decisions that you feel lock you in to a certain look or color palette? If so, what and do you have regrets or concerns about it? If you went with a countertop that lends itself to current and future flexibility with style/color choices, what did you pick?

As I ponder this, it seems I'm down to a few options:
1. Black or perhaps charcoal/the right gray. (Not sure either of those would be great with the blue)
2. Wood tones. (Better with the blue, but too much wood given the floor and what about durability and cost?)
3. White or off-white. (Seems bland with white cabinets, won't give any contrast with the cabinets, too contemporary for my taste?)

I know this might seem premature, given I haven't finalized my layout, not to mention even decided on a general layout (L versus pensinsula versus galley), but I do need to get a vision and I am doing a ton of material research and musing while I focus on the energy audit and exterior work we are doing. And up here in Alaska, a lot of places won't ship to you and when you find the right piece, you best buy it because it might not be around later. So, I expect I might need to be doing some buying soon and throughout the construction period if I want it to come together in this century. lol

All feedback and suggestions welcome, along with spunky debate. Perhaps I am a kitchen commitmentphobe.

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clipped on: 08.04.2013 at 12:06 am    last updated on: 08.04.2013 at 12:06 am

American Standard Single-Basin Drop-in Stainless Steel Sink

posted by: Homeblessings on 03.09.2013 at 09:14 pm in Kitchens Forum

I really love the concept of this sink. Does anyone have it who has installed it undermount? If so, does it have a positive reveal? I would love to see photos.
The video on Lowe's website indicates that it can be undermounted but the Q and A section give conflicting information.
Here's the link:[url]http://www.lowes.com/pd_102-94094-027OTH115STS_4294735690+42 94837010+4294801682_89_ipTrail=24.168.91.212&catalogId=10051&catalogId =10051&productId=3608968&pl=1&selectedLocalStoreBeanArray=%5Bcom.lowes .commerce.storelocator.beans.LocatorStoreBean%4056765676%5D¤tURL =/pl_10_4294735690%2B4294837010%2B4294801682_89_%3FNs%3Dp_product_qty_ sales_dollar%7C1&storeNumber=1597&langId=-1&langId=-1&Ns=p_product_qty _sales_dollar%7C1&errorURL=UserAccountView&storeId=10151&storeId=10151 &facetInfo=1.0%7CStainless+Steel[/url]

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clipped on: 08.03.2013 at 11:59 pm    last updated on: 08.04.2013 at 12:00 am

Polished chrome vs polished nickel

posted by: lexmomof3 on 11.03.2012 at 07:25 am in Kitchens Forum

Other than some prefer one look over the other, are there any pros and cons to one vs the other?

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clipped on: 08.03.2013 at 11:57 pm    last updated on: 08.03.2013 at 11:59 pm

Tiling around windows in backsplash

posted by: msrose on 02.18.2013 at 08:14 pm in Kitchens Forum

My granite will be installed Monday and then it will be time to start shopping for a backsplash! I don't like the way my backplash is currently tiled around the window, but I don't know what my other options are. You can currently see the edge of the tile, which doesn't look very good. Any ideas?

Photobucket

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clipped on: 02.26.2013 at 01:38 am    last updated on: 08.03.2013 at 11:55 pm

Who was wondering about the tree wallpaper that Lavender posted?

posted by: deedles on 10.19.2012 at 11:47 am in Kitchens Forum

I think I found it?

Here is a link that might be useful: tree paper

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clipped on: 10.19.2012 at 02:59 pm    last updated on: 08.03.2013 at 11:55 pm

Window between counter and upper cabinents

posted by: AlexHouse on 08.21.2012 at 09:38 pm in Kitchens Forum

Does anyone have a window between countertop and their upper cabinets? If so, did you raise your uppers in order to increase window height? If you have any photos, would you please share them.

Here's what I'm toying with right now and it's not striking me as a slam dunk. The countertop height is at 36", the windows top out at 60" and the upper cabinets start at 60" and are, for the moment 30" tall but will likely go to the ceiling once I figure out my ceiling treatment.

Here's the before shot:

Please share your opinion on which you prefer and any suggestions on how to improve the look of that wall.

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clipped on: 08.03.2013 at 11:45 pm    last updated on: 08.03.2013 at 11:45 pm

Seeking votes/opinions - Uppers on BS Window and Sink Wall

posted by: Steph2000 on 05.17.2013 at 01:06 pm in Kitchens Forum

I'm trying to tweak the final details here on layout and separate out some of the little dilemmas (that feel huge) while I continue to grapple with KD and cabinet dilemmas.

As some of you know, I already have a BS window installed. It travels the entire length of my cabinet run, basically, until reaching the fridge area (stay tuned for another dilemma there).

I need at least 2 functional uppers on that wall - one for the glasses and one for dishware.

Because the sink is also going to be basically centered on that wall, I went from having uppers straight across to lifting it up over the sink area with 3 18" box cabinets. If I go with glass in them as pictured, they won't have mullions as shown in this pic:

 photo FinalOption1_zpsa52d4f6c.jpg

However, I've been going over earlier layouts, meetings with KD's and inspiration pics that have BS windows and I started to doubt myself. (Funny how if you do this long enough, you often end up full circle where you started as you consider options)

I started wondering if it just looks cleaner and makes more visual sense to go with uppers straight across the window. I'm not sure how to make that work in terms of sizes to use if I go that way, as I would probably want them to look basically the same size all the way across? It would also require a lower profile faucet, as you can see.

Here's basically what that would look like:
 photo FinalOption2_zpsbb0558f4.jpg

Which do you think works better with my space, both visually and functionally? Any and all votes, feedback and suggestions welcome.

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clipped on: 08.03.2013 at 11:41 pm    last updated on: 08.03.2013 at 11:45 pm

Ikea Datid hood--style flair but don't know about quality

posted by: needinfo1 on 03.24.2013 at 08:28 pm in Appliances Forum

I am quite enamored by this hood from Ikea, but I can't find much info at all about the quality or reliability. I know the hoods are made by Whirlpool with their so-so reputation. But, I love the unique looks that I can't find anywhere else for a comparable price $680. The specs are adequate for my purposes because I don't want mega cfms.

Wall mounted extractor hood with 3 different speeds.
Motor power: 264W.
400 CFM.
5.8 sones/Noise level: 66.7 dB.
Metal grease filter.
2-20W halogen lamps.
Voltage: 120V.

Thoughts?


http://www.ikea.com/us/en/images/products/datid-exhaust-hood__0138072_ PE297239_S4.JPG

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clipped on: 08.03.2013 at 11:21 pm    last updated on: 08.03.2013 at 11:28 pm

Cabinets over Sinks

posted by: Steph2000 on 06.23.2011 at 12:52 pm in Kitchens Forum

For those of you who have upper cabinets over your sink area, what do you like for cabinet size? I'm trying to decide how I feel about working under a 30" cabinet, which I've never done at the sink and DW area.

Thoughts? Preferences? Cautions?

Thanks in advance!

(pics are great, as always, but not required)

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clipped on: 08.03.2013 at 11:28 pm    last updated on: 08.03.2013 at 11:28 pm

Two-Toned Kitchen - 10 days in progress

posted by: Majra on 05.22.2013 at 11:15 am in Kitchens Forum

As I sit here babysitiing contractors, I realized that I had not visited GW for some time. I really need you folks right now! We have had obstacles along the way, but I am hoping that the worst is over. Today is an exciting day--cabinet and window installation. We're starting to put the pieces together again.

I had not realized the emotional toll that this kitchen remodel would take. Last year we underwent a 5-month remodel of our living areas, and I swear this has been worse. The kitchen is the heart of our home; seeing it ripped up has been like open-heart surgery.

Enough bellyaching. Here are some photos of our progress to date. I will update this post regularly as things move along. We are hoping to be templated for countertops by Friday.

Before: White thermofoil cabinets, falling apart, and green laminate countertops. White cast iron double sink. A mish-mash of old and newer appliances. Brand new hardwood floors under the paper.

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clipped on: 08.03.2013 at 11:08 pm    last updated on: 08.03.2013 at 11:08 pm

Almost finished High-Low Semi-DIY Kitchen

posted by: twn85 on 06.28.2013 at 01:01 pm in Kitchens Forum

Well, It;s been a long long journey. Being first time home owners, our kitchen reno was a shot in the dark for us. What started out as a "freshening-up" spiraled into a full scale gut/remodel. With limited budget (and limited talent), we turned to IKEA. When all was said and (almost) done, there are several things that I would have done differently but overall, I'm pretty pleased with the way things turned out.

We do still have several projects to finish, trim, window treatment, etc, But without further ado:

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clipped on: 08.02.2013 at 08:04 am    last updated on: 08.03.2013 at 10:51 pm

Finished White and Gray Kitchen Reveal

posted by: 1pandora on 07.11.2013 at 09:42 pm in Kitchens Forum

We finally finished our remodel the end of May. With kiddos home for the summer, not having any renovations errands to do, enjoying the finished outcome, its been hard to get motivated to put our finished pictures and information up, but here it is:

Cabinetry-custom made by Summit Custom Cabinets(local) � painted BM Simply White, island stain- custom color

Wall Paint- Kitchen-BM Nimbus Rest of house-BM-Revere Pewter

Flooring- 5" quartersawn, rustic grade, hand scraped white oak- 50% Dark Walnut- 50% Provincial

Appliances-Refrigerator-Samsung, Everything else-GE Monogram

Sink � Blanco Diamond Single Bowl-White
Faucet-Moen-Ascent

Countertops - Granite (island)- Bianco Romano Quartz Ceasarstone Raven(perimeter)

Backsplash-Marble Random Strip Bianco Venatino

Pendants -Sundance Catalog- Meridian

Cabinetry Hardware- Colonial Bronze - Distressed Pewter

4 Panel Sliding Glass Door- Home Depot-Anderson Doors & Windows

Barstools - Pottery Barn- Jacquelyne Counter Height stools

I don't think I have anything special that I haven't seen elsewhere, but I do have everything I love. I do not regret any choices or decisions made.

From the before pictures, you can tell that our 1978 house was very sectional and not opened up. We were very fortunate that we had a screened in porch off our kitchen that we were able to convert to kitchen space. The opening/doorway from the kitchen into the living room was only about a four feet opening. In the remodel, we were able to open the space between the two. Has made a huge difference. We also removed the wall between the now dining room and the living room. I love this-it gives us a line of sight from the kitchen to the front door. Previously had to walk out of kitchen and actually into the entry way to see who was at the door. We made a lot of structural changes in an older home into a much wanted open concept. This also included adding support in the basement to support the removal of a load bearing wall on the main level.

If I have left out any details that you would like more information, let me know.

1Pandora

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Use to be a wall between the dining room and the living room.
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This post was edited by 1pandora on Thu, Jul 11, 13 at 22:03

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clipped on: 08.03.2013 at 10:49 pm    last updated on: 08.03.2013 at 10:51 pm

What is the deal with long pulls?

posted by: kksmama on 07.24.2013 at 04:27 pm in Kitchens Forum

Have I made a mistake in using wide drawer banks (30, 35, and 36")? I started looking at pulls and thought it would be nice to have them around 10 or 12" - rule of thirds is something I've heard around here somewhere - but OUCH! These lovely Amerock candler pulls are a totally reasonable $6-$7 in lengths up to 160mm, and then $40 for 203mm and $52 for 12"!  photo candler_zpsc2efa555.jpg
Can anyone suggest something similar that isn't so expensive in longer lengths? Is it weird and unusual to have such wide drawers?

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clipped on: 08.02.2013 at 09:02 am    last updated on: 08.02.2013 at 09:03 am

Best bang buck sink- Kraus next best option?

posted by: marvelousmarvin on 07.24.2013 at 02:37 am in Kitchens Forum

What's now the best bang for the buck stainless sink?

Not too long ago, it seemed Ticor and Kraus were contenders for the title of the best bang buck sink? But, Ticor seemed to the gardnweb's consensus choice.

However, since then, availability of TIcor dried up and their prices spiked up. With Ticor's higher prices, is Kraus now the best choice?

Or, did Kraus' prices spike up too where its no longer such a great value? I'm looking at Amazon, and the Kraus sink I want, Kraus KBU22 32-Inch Undermount 50/50 Double Bowl 16 gauge Kitchen Sink, Stainless Steel, will cost around $370 on Amazon.

Is that still a good price?

Kraus stainless sinks may have been great out of the box, but have there been any issues or problems with them years later?

What exactly is the quality difference between Krause and the Blanco and Franke sinks? Am I sacrificing anything for the lower price?

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clipped on: 08.02.2013 at 09:00 am    last updated on: 08.02.2013 at 09:00 am

Is your Franke undermount difficult to clean?

posted by: erikanh on 12.15.2008 at 07:22 pm in Kitchens Forum

I read a post by limequilla complaining about how hard it is to clean her Franke stainless steel sink, hope it's ok to copy it here. She also complains about the quality which surprised me because I thought that Franke wasn't a cheap brand. Would love to hear from other Franke SS sink owners.

"There is a visible lip on most of the under counter models right where it meets the countertop and side wall of the sink. I'm not sure why it's there unless it's to give stability if you have a huge sink of water and dirty, heavy skillets. I thought I was getting a deal by buying Franke from Lowe's for 1/2 the cost, and it has been a nightmare to keep clean. There is a double roll that was finished poorly all around the perimeter. Also, the soundproofing on some -- for instance, on mine it sounded hollow when we ran water. So I had to do a little work on it to make it sound better...the difference in the expensive klunk of a Cadillac door complared to a Ford Mustang....yo know it when you hear it :)"

Here is a link that might be useful: Original thread

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clipped on: 08.02.2013 at 08:46 am    last updated on: 08.02.2013 at 08:54 am

Help! Need a range hood for a low ceiling (pic)

posted by: eugenie11 on 09.04.2011 at 09:23 pm in Appliances Forum

Just posted this and the picture didn't show up, so I'm going to try again.

Here's my problem: I am replacing the range hood over my island but the distance from the ceiling to the cooktop is only 45" because of a soffit that hangs down over the island (possibly to incorporate the vent? I don't know because I can't see inside), and most of the range hoods I have looked at require more height.

Does anyone know of an island mounted range hood that will fit my specs? I would prefer one of the more low profile models, not the big hood I have now (see pic), but I realize my choices may be limited, so I'll take anything I can get!

Thanks so much in advance!

Photobucket

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clipped on: 08.02.2013 at 08:41 am    last updated on: 08.02.2013 at 08:41 am

Basic lesson in under cabinet lighting? Recommendations?

posted by: Gigibozo on 03.24.2013 at 02:15 pm in Kitchens Forum

Can anyone give me a lesson in under cabinet lighting? Any recommendations? Tips? I don't have it in my current 20-plus year kitchen, so I am clueless.

Thanks

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clipped on: 08.02.2013 at 08:25 am    last updated on: 08.02.2013 at 08:26 am

Faucet - front lever high arc traditional pull -down

posted by: cookingbuff on 07.29.2013 at 03:20 pm in Kitchens Forum

I will be installing my 36" whitehaven farmhouse sink and am looking for a faucet recommendation. I want the lever to be in the front-have it now and all the drips go in the sink. The sink is wide so I need a large faucet spout distance. Any recommendations? Anyone love /dislike the faucet they have now? Thanks.

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clipped on: 08.02.2013 at 08:11 am    last updated on: 08.02.2013 at 08:11 am

Please show me your negative reveal farm sink

posted by: mshutterbug on 07.30.2013 at 06:56 pm in Kitchens Forum

The granite templater just left. I had planned for a neutral reveal with maybe a very, very slight overhang. Well, he said that because these sinks aren't usually square, they don't ever do a neutral or positive reveal because then it is very obvious that it's not square. He also said with undermount they always do a standard quarter inch overhang. So, the overhang will vary between .25 and .5 inch. He said this "hides" the non-squareness of the sink. I know that some granite installers don't do it this way because I've seen pictures here ;) But he was absolutely adamant that we had to do it this way (and we've already paid for the granite/installation, so it's not like I can just go with a different company at this point.)

I'm hoping you all can make me feel better about this, by telling me you've encountered this situation and it worked out nicely. And, I'd really appreciate any pictures of negative reveals on farmhouse sinks!

PS. The overhang at the front will also vary apparently because our walls were out of square and the cabinets were not shimmed in back, so the overhang in front will vary between .25 and .5 inch. Ugh! The faces and doors are not installed yet and he said we might be able to fix it after the fact by shimming out the cabinet faces. Sigh.

None of this sits well with the perfectionist in me. Maybe it's a good lesson in letting the small things slide LOL

Thanks!

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clipped on: 08.02.2013 at 08:07 am    last updated on: 08.02.2013 at 08:08 am

RE: Help! Our wood look tile was not laid randomly! (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: snookums2 on 07.26.2013 at 03:21 pm in Kitchens Forum

Please, you are not being picky. That is one very sad looking installation. Unbelievable. The only way it can be handled is to rip it out. That would be at their cost because it's nothing more than a hack job on their part. Judging by that demonstration of their skill level, there could be other problems as well.

There must be a lot of pictures around how to lay that type of tile. Yours will go in the Hall of Shame, unfortunately.

Don't let them do the stair stepping method, which looks like this. The first picture is an exaggerated example. Usually they work in smaller columns, not a full flight of stairs (one column) across the whole width of the room. They do this because it's easier, to save time, which is why the professionals call installers who do this hacks.

So sorry to see what happened to your floor. Hope it gets resolved without a battle.

Here is a link that might be useful: layout of end joints

This post was edited by snookums2 on Sat, Jul 27, 13 at 13:39


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clipped on: 08.02.2013 at 07:44 am    last updated on: 08.02.2013 at 07:45 am

Floodstop hoses for dishwasher

posted by: marvelousmarvin on 07.19.2013 at 01:43 am in Kitchens Forum

After suffering water damage for the kitchen and seeing how much damage it caused, I'm really paranoid about any suffering any further water damage from the dishwasher.

Does anybody have experience with Floodstop device, an emergency shut off device which will shut off the water from the dishwasher from spilling if it detects any water from a leak or rupture?

It seems like it might work in theory, but are there any issues with durability or false alarms? I'm just skimming through the Amazon reviews but some people complain how it seems to be cheaply made.

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clipped on: 08.02.2013 at 07:39 am    last updated on: 08.02.2013 at 07:40 am

RE: Layout Help - Want everything! Can I have it? (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: tracie.erin on 06.28.2013 at 11:06 am in Kitchens Forum

I would agree with ditching the cabinet pantries, putting the ovens next to the sink and a prep sink on the island. As pointed out, the island could become longer so you wouldn't be losing much or any space with the addition of the prep sink.

I would ditch the desk too but it seems you need it. Instead, I'm wondering if you could do a counter height desk. It could double as a work station and buffet space when needed. Here is clergychick's:

Alternatively, if you cannot find pantry space elsewhere in the house, I would put a shallow pantry that is partially in between the studs on the wall that currently has the ovens. IE, the fridge and ovens go together as previously suggested, but make sure they don't butt up to that wing wall. Then, put that shallow pantry to the corner. Yes, you will have some dead space in that corner. Here's cindyandmocha's similar pantry:



She says it's the best idea they had for the whole kitchen remodel, is 7' deep but only eats up 3' of actual floor space. Yours can be maybe 12' deep if you like. Shallow pantries hold a lot and the nice thing about them is that you don't 'lose' anything to the back depths and can't find them, buy doubles, etc. I wish DH would have let us rip out the closet pantry that cramps the dining room (yes, the DR) and put this in. C&M put a header in but honestly I would probably just work around the studs :) I'll link her thread in case you want to read more.

Finally, diagonal upper corner cabinets are hard to access and are made to be bookended by rectangular cabinets so they look weird when they are not. I'd do an EZ access corner cabinet instead:

Anywho I wrote all that out and then did a layout for you anyway so here it is. :) You didn't provide an aerial layout with measurements (please do!) so I guessed about what would fit based on the scale of your elevations and made my own which is of course rough and thus out of scale.

 photo cinjos1_zps3e80b7c4.jpg

Here is a link that might be useful: link to cindyandmocha's finished kitchen thread


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clipped on: 07.08.2013 at 01:58 pm    last updated on: 07.08.2013 at 01:58 pm

Cabinet size for Sharp microwave drawer

posted by: lmsscs on 07.01.2013 at 04:04 pm in Kitchens Forum

My plan is to get a 24" Sharp microwave drawer. I was planning to put that in a 24" cabinet. The KD didn't like that very much and wanted me to use a 27" cabinet for it as the cut-out would be correct and need little or no modification. The drawer will be positioned between my fridge (bottom freezer / french door) and double ovens. He also liked the extra space. Will it look odd having that much space around it? Would love to hear from others who have looked at this or dealt with the install on one of these. Thank you

NOTES:

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clipped on: 07.02.2013 at 02:11 pm    last updated on: 07.02.2013 at 02:11 pm

New Bosch DWs?

posted by: Steph2000 on 06.28.2013 at 07:08 pm in Appliances Forum

It seems Bosch has discontinued some lines of DWers and come out with some new ones. I've searched around here to find links, but it doesn't seem the board has discussed it.

Anyone have feedback or impressions about these changes and recommended DW'ers?

NOTES:

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clipped on: 07.02.2013 at 01:32 am    last updated on: 07.02.2013 at 01:33 am

RE: Making a list...checking it twice (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: williamsem on 06.17.2013 at 10:41 pm in Kitchens Forum

I was in your shoes not too long ago! Still not quite finished though.

Check out the thread I linked. I asked about things to remember too and found this very helpful.

How much are you responsible for buying? I took care of just about everything visible, so I had a long list!

Check return periods before you start buying. I wanted to have some time left to return stuff after the GC started in case I got the wrong thing, wouldn't fit, etc. many places are 30 days, so I ordered most things 10-14 days before demo. I wanted it all on site to refer to specs if needed as well as not slow anything down. Lowes and HD have a more generous policy, so I got a ton of little odds and ends there, like outlets and covers, so I can return the excess. Also saved me when my $180 fan they promised would work with the switch I had in fact did not work, so at 6 weeks I can take it back!

Here's what I ordered that I remember:

ELECTRIC: recessed lights and housings (Ecosmart from HD, takes a while so order ahead), UCL (Environmentallights.com, took about a week), dimmers/switches/outlets/covers, GFI outlets (be sure any dimmers are compatible with the lights you have/buy), shallow metal junction boxes for hardwiring UCL and plugmold, blank covers for shallow junction boxes

SINK: aside from the sink, GD, new GD connector, GD flange (wanted a nicer one than it comes with), strainer for drain, air switch, DW leak pan, sink grids/accessories, place for little veggie scrubbers, sink cabinet liner for drips

CABINETS: door pulls, any interior organization you want attached by cabinet guys, garbage cans/bins for new design, any utensil holders/etc you want to use, drawer/shelf liner if needed

MISC: paint, trim, flooring and subfloor if needed plus any prep materials, UV window film to protect new floors if needed, fan or pendants if needed, anti fatigue mat, walk off rug at door, fire extinguisher

I also got some great microfiber cloths at Lowes for wiping the cabinets and a new mop, broom, and dustpan to motivate myself to keep it all clean (the old ones were 11 years old and cheap, so it was time!).

Seems like I had a lot more here, but a lot of it was the cabinets, and then some was for the powder room, so this might be about it.

Keep all the receipts together and stack it all neatly so you can still breath when it's all there :-)

Here is a link that might be useful: Other thread about stuff to get

NOTES:

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clipped on: 06.18.2013 at 02:28 am    last updated on: 06.18.2013 at 02:28 am

RE: Show me your green backsplash (Follow-Up #22)

posted by: amandasplit on 02.06.2013 at 01:53 pm in Kitchens Forum

Oops did that not work the first time? Wish I had a full kitchen shot.

NOTES:

green tiles
clipped on: 06.14.2013 at 04:24 pm    last updated on: 06.14.2013 at 04:24 pm

LED recessed cans guide for kitchen ...

posted by: davidtay on 01.30.2012 at 01:27 am in Lighting Forum

A collection of tips/ answers
Since kitchens have higher lighting requirements, I like to use 35 lumen per sq ft as a rule to compute the number of lights. If there are additional sources of light that will be used, the output (lumens not watts) from those sources can be deducted from the total.

Placement/ layout
1. Cans should be > 24 to 30 inches from the wall (on center). Most countertop spaces have upper cabinets (typically ~ 12" deep) + crown molding. The edge of the can may be spaced ~ 12" away from the edge of the crown molding (if present or cabinet if there is no crown molding) making the average distance between 26 to 30 inches.

2. Assuming the need for a fairly uniformly lit space @ 35 lumens per sq ft, the cans may have to be spaced closer together - between 3 - 4 ft apart (if all general lighting is provided by recessed lights). A fairly regular pattern is preferable to a random layout.

3. The actual layout of cans will be impacted by the location of ceiling joists, HVAC ducting, electrical wiring, plumbing, ceiling height, fire suppression sprinklers and other obstructions above the ceiling.

Dimming
The Cree LR6 series lamps do not dim as well as the later models (CR6, ...). ELV dimmers probably work better with LR6 than incandescent dimmers since the total load of the lights may not meet the minimum load requirement for the incandescent dimmer.

Dimmers such as the Lutron Diva CL dimmers work well. The max output is 95%.

Some Choices (in order of preference) and notes
Cree CR6 or ECO-575 (Home Depot branded CR6)
ECO4-575 (Home Depot branded Cree CR4 4" recessed light)
The above are only available in 2700k light color.

Cree LR6 series - including the LE6.

The Cree CR6 and LR6 lamps will not fit into 5" housings.

The standard LR6 behaves more like a surface mount than a recessed light as the LED emitters are close to the surface and the recess is shallow. Some may not like the amount of light spillage (standard LR6).

There is a higher output version of the LR6 that has a much deeper recess.

To prevent the Cree lamps from falling out, the 3 prongs have to be fully extended and a slight clockwise twist made when push installing. The slight clockwise twist will ensure that the prongs are fully extended.

The Cree lamps are currently the best available today (2012).

Sylvania RT-6, RT-4. The lights could be easier to install than Cree lamps as they utilize the torsion spring mechanism. However, the lights do not look as pleasant as the Cree lamps.

The Cree and Sylvania lamps do outperform 26W CFLs (and incandescents) in a standard recessed can in terms of light spread and output as the standard bulb in a can solution traps a significant amount of light. The Cree and Sylvania recessed lamp solutions referenced above have all the LED elements facing outwards so that the effective light output is higher.

The CRI (Color Rendition Index) of Cree and Sylvania recessed lamps > 80.

There is no warm up time required for Cree recessed lamps, unlike CFL light bulbs.

Most recessed lighting is used with flat ceilings. Sloped ceilings would require special solutions such as the LE6 or some other form of lighting (i.e. -non recessed lighting).

Some common objections to recessed can lights stem from
1. looks and performance of traditional can lights (standard bulb in a can)
2. swiss cheese effect from too many holes.

NOTES:

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clipped on: 06.14.2013 at 12:14 pm    last updated on: 06.14.2013 at 12:15 pm

RE: Frigidaire/Electrolux twins, what size cabinets? (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: trailrunner on 05.18.2013 at 07:41 pm in Kitchens Forum

Both rhome410 and I have the Twins installed with basically this setup. I have had it for 7 years. The pull out on the left is from Lee Valley. Can't say enough good things about it ! I love the book shelves and the pullout. We are only 2 but I manage to keep both units full ! It is wonderful having only cabinet depth...nothing ever gets lost. Hope this helps. Would be glad to measure for you. c

Frigidaire Twins/some of my cookbooks and Lee Valley pantry pullout on left photo kitchen012.jpg


NOTES:

Lee valley pull out
clipped on: 05.19.2013 at 04:39 pm    last updated on: 05.19.2013 at 04:39 pm

RE: What should we do with this awkward nook? (Follow-Up #14)

posted by: dilly_ny on 04.11.2013 at 12:37 pm in Kitchens Forum

Closet is the easy / affordable solution.

I like the butler's pantry idea.

How about a beverage center? You could use a drawer or two for scissors, tape, stapler, etc.

Or another reading nook idea

Or a craft area:

Or it looks like a good spot for a stacked washer and dryer.

How bout a mudroom nook? I'll link to a nice one.

Here is a link that might be useful: Closet turned mudroom

NOTES:

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clipped on: 04.11.2013 at 01:04 pm    last updated on: 04.11.2013 at 01:05 pm

RE: What should we do with this awkward nook? (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: GWlolo on 04.11.2013 at 12:21 pm in Kitchens Forum

Have you considered a book nook like this one. This would be so cozy and charming
Photobucket Pictures, Images and Photos

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clipped on: 04.11.2013 at 01:04 pm    last updated on: 04.11.2013 at 01:04 pm

RE: Anyone have pics of fridge flanked by tall pantries? (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: farmgirlinky on 03.10.2013 at 07:34 pm in Kitchens Forum

another angle, better picture:

 photo L1090586.jpg

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clipped on: 03.11.2013 at 01:22 am    last updated on: 03.11.2013 at 01:22 am

recognize this stove?

posted by: HeidiW113 on 03.03.2013 at 09:21 pm in Kitchens Forum

I have seen this image all over pinterest. But all the comments are about the cool sign...I am wondering what brand of stove it is! Love the look and the double oven. Any guesses?

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clipped on: 03.04.2013 at 11:59 am    last updated on: 03.04.2013 at 11:59 am

Kitchen Reveal - Traditional Quiet White Kitchen

posted by: ArchitectMamma on 03.03.2013 at 09:57 pm in Kitchens Forum

When the second oven blew out last summer on our 20 year old Viking, we knew the writing was on the wall to renovate the kitchen. Our home was built in 1919 and when the previous owners had renovated the kitchen in 1990, they “modernized” the kitchen, removing some of the original moldings that matched the rest of the house, adding black formica, checkerboard tile, and a professional, albeit oversized, range. We wanted to create a new kitchen with style choices appropriate to the simple detailing of our red brick Georgian home, restore the moldings, and create more storage space. The first thing we did was to remove the soffit that ran around the perimeter of the kitchen. Sure enough, it was hiding piping that offset just below our finished ceiling. We were able to abandon a redundant radiator on the floor above and re-route the piping into the ceiling. This gave us not only more storage but also the feeling of a much higher ceiling than 8’-3.” We were able to keep the flooring intact and re-use the existing dishwasher. In addition to my role as designer, I also was the GC. Although I am pretty quiet here on the forum, I learned quite a bit from all of you and just knowing we were all going through the same thing together helped quiet my nerves when I thought I couldn’t take another day of this. Thank you!!!

Cabinets: Custom inset shaker style by Dutchwood Cabinetmakers painted Sail White
Hardware: Westerly pulls by Amerock in Satin Nickel, Hafele butt hinges in Satin Nickel
Paint: Walls: Benjamin Moore_Coastal Fog // Trim: Benjamin Moore _Linen White
Tile: Dal-Tile Rittenhouse 3x6 in Biscuit
Countertops: Madreperla Quartzite
Range: 36” Wolf, all gas
Hood: Vent-a-hood
Refrigerator: 36” SubZero French Door
Dishwasher: Re-used KitchenAid
Sink: Franke KBX11028 with sink grid
Faucet: Rohl/Perrin & Rowe Traditional Bridge Faucet
Filter Faucet: Kohler Traditional Wellspring Beverage Faucet
Filter: Multi-Pure
Recessed lights: Halo 4” incandescent
Pendant lights: Restoration Hardware, 8” Benson pendant in Satin Nickel
Undercabinet lighting: Kichler Xenon

Before:
 photo 01_zpsf817a570.jpg
 photo 02_zpsf0287c89.jpg

After:
 photo 03_zpsba26cbef.jpg

 photo 04_zps57529152.jpg

 photo 05_zpse59ae8c8.jpg

 photo 06_zpsd7074f44.jpg

 photo 07_zps350b81ae.jpg

 photo 09_zps0e9a0619.jpg

 photo 14_zpsa9eeaef2.jpg
 photo 16_zpscabca1fa.jpg
 photo 15_zps2b35baa4.jpg

 photo 10_zpsdcd3ef33.jpg

 photo 17_zpsff28a25a.jpg

 photo 18_zps79155a15.jpg

 photo 20_zpsd1953336.jpg

 photo 21_zps5426a718.jpg

More photos are on photobucket, if they ask for a guest password, it is Gardenweb.

This post was edited by ArchitectMamma on Mon, Mar 4, 13 at 7:46

NOTES:

fridge cab on side would give more storage, though perhaps not as convenient and I give up the pull out
clipped on: 03.04.2013 at 11:13 am    last updated on: 03.04.2013 at 11:14 am

RE: OT: nearly finished master bath! (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: deedles on 03.03.2013 at 04:42 pm in Kitchens Forum

Thanks all for the nice comments!

Sharonite: the paper is "Woods" by Cole & Son. Say, PM me... If you are interested in this exact colorway, I have almost a full roll left over, if your wall isn't too big.
Localeater: Re: the light. Actually, we got this one and 4 smaller ones for a buck each. No fixtures but... the old guy that sold them to us thought they were in a bank or office building. They look to be 30s era, to my eye at least. We've been storing them for like 12 years with no idea as to why... til now. Hope to use some of the others in the kitchen.

Here is the link to the bird wall hook. Overstock, in their Worldstock department. It's adorable. And here are some closeups of the tile:  photo 100_0811_zpsb0604994.jpg
 photo 100_0813_zps22aafc9a.jpg
 photo 100_0814_zps28ee0e0e.jpg

Tinan: my DH did the whole thing. Do you mean my side of the 'how to" or his, lol. Mine involved picking out the designs elements and then being r..e..a..l..l..y patient. I don't know as for the floor, we ordered the pebbles from Stratastones. He set them in the usual morter bed BUT he had to set about half of them one by one for the design and also so as not to have a visible 'join' between the sheets of tiles. I drew the river design and he transferred it to a grid on paper and went foot by foot following that. We (by we I mean him) used 3 coats of sealer over top, one before the grout and 2 after.

Oh yeah, the chandelier in the throne room was a dumpster find (about 20 years ago)... including the crystals.

Here is a link that might be useful: bird hook wall thingee

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clipped on: 03.03.2013 at 09:17 pm    last updated on: 03.03.2013 at 09:17 pm

RE: 30" W Refrigerator? (Follow-Up #10)

posted by: babushka_cat on 03.02.2013 at 01:23 am in Kitchens Forum

i have the amana 30" 19 cubic feet in stainless, looks just like pic above, single door freezer on bottom. love it! given i have a small kitchen (11x13) this was a good size. am single, could see a couple using it but too small for a family. door can be configured to swing either way and mine is in the corner with very little space needed to open door fully. for a small kichen this is a keeper.

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clipped on: 03.02.2013 at 04:20 am    last updated on: 03.02.2013 at 04:20 am

RE: 30" W Refrigerator? (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: suzannesl on 03.01.2013 at 11:51 am in Kitchens Forum

I have the 32-whatever" version of this, which is 29-5/8" and runs just under $1500 before discounts and sales:

What I like about mine is the interior design. It is by far and away the best interior use of space I found in this size. We did look at french door models, but in widths less than 36", they just weren't very usable. Ginny20 makes some excellent points about interior design - it really makes a difference how you use interior space. This is ours on the day before Thanksgiving. The yellow bowl is the really large Tupperware bowl (dressing), and the brown bag above it is a 23 lb. turkey. Love the freezer on the bottom.

Fridge at Thanksgiving photo fridgeThanksgiving.jpg

Here is a link that might be useful: This refrigerator

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clipped on: 03.02.2013 at 04:19 am    last updated on: 03.02.2013 at 04:19 am

RE: Weird layout and no where to go (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: tracie.erin on 02.18.2013 at 11:24 am in Kitchens Forum

Well, what I would probably do is get rid of the vent pipe and put the range and fridge on that wall. The range would probably have to go in front of the window - check to see if your local code allows this, and if it does it might state that the window must be inoperable. If so, you can put in a clear glass window or a stained glass window of the current size, so no rebricking. The stained glass would look nice in a home of yours' vintage. AngieDIY has a really cool set-up like this.

I'd then take down the kitchen/DR wall and put the sink and DW in an island there. I'd be tempted, actually, to run the island into the wall to one side or the other in order to get more counter space - mamadadapaige has something like this. I'd probably anchor it to the wall opposite the bay windows so as to get that counter space directly in front of the fridge and range.

For inspiration, Angie_DIY's window range & hood:
 photo CIMG3639.jpg

..and mamadadapaige's anchored island:

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clipped on: 02.18.2013 at 12:49 pm    last updated on: 02.18.2013 at 12:49 pm

RE: Appliance garage or no? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: lzhwong on 01.13.2013 at 03:47 pm in Kitchens Forum

Here is an example of two hutch style cabinets flanking the sink.


NOTES:

counter cabinet on peninsula
clipped on: 01.14.2013 at 01:14 pm    last updated on: 01.14.2013 at 01:15 pm

RE: Shiloh cabinet pics anyone? (Follow-Up #24)

posted by: nixit71 on 10.26.2012 at 11:22 am in Kitchens Forum

We installed Shiloh Homestead style maple cabinets painted sage green. It's only been a month since the remodel was completed, but we are happy with the overall quality and look.


NOTES:

Shiloh cabinets - see the to counter cabinet right at the peninsula edge. Hm. Worth considering!
clipped on: 10.26.2012 at 01:16 pm    last updated on: 01.12.2013 at 01:00 pm

RE: low budget kitchen- IKEA or Home Depot or what? (Follow-Up #21)

posted by: rtwilliams on 01.10.2013 at 12:31 pm in Kitchens Forum

When we priced the Ikea cabinets for her kitchen they where considerably more expensive than the Schrock ones and we did not have an Ikea close enough to go to see them in person. She wanted painted cabinets not thermofoil and schrock cabinets have wood drawers, dove tail construction. So for the $ they really are nice cabinets. Another line that is fairly inexpensive is Mid continent cabinets. The dealer in our area for the mid-continent is difficult to work with so we passed on them.

Steph- the flooring is from lowes the allen + roth brand, pretty inexpensive and it is individual planks. It looks nice the planks had a foam backing attached to them. I have a vinyl plank flooring in my basement and I love it. I do daycare and it is very nice looking and cleans up easily. I would not hesitate to put the vinyl floor on cement.


NOTES:

vinyl plank floor
clipped on: 01.11.2013 at 02:31 pm    last updated on: 01.11.2013 at 02:31 pm

RE: Starting from scratch... cabinets stolen (intro) (Follow-Up #50)

posted by: IowaCommute on 12.11.2012 at 09:25 am in Kitchens Forum

I completely agree. First of all I would be leery of a GC who is already telling me things like 'absolutely can not be done.' He sounds like a Negative Nancy or as Debrak_2008 suggested has limited knowledge and wants to do things his way. Both possibilities are not good for you.

I did a quick search on GW and here are some links I found. Many people (including myself-now and my future house) have this problem, and there are a couple of solutions.

How is your inside wall hood vented

Through-wall vent for range hood

Paths for venting range hood to exterior

How do vent your cooktop and does it work well

NOTES:

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clipped on: 01.10.2013 at 09:31 am    last updated on: 01.10.2013 at 09:31 am

RE: Gulp - BIG $ difference in primed vs painted Scherr's (Follow-Up #16)

posted by: northcarolina on 01.06.2013 at 11:28 am in Kitchens Forum

lovetodream -- I don't have photos of my own kitchen, but a Google Image search for "Adel white kitchen" pulls up a lot of other ones, if you still want to see any.

It sounds as though you have reached a good solution. More thoughts from my own experience:

The front edges of the cover panels are at the same plane (more or less) as the fronts of the drawers and doors, so there is some potential for edge dings. Also don't forget all the extra pieces you'll need, though you can probably get them on the fly from the lumber place as you go along. If you're using a range hood that's mounted under a cabinet, the upper cabinets on each side will need cover panels. That means that the sides of the cabinets flanking the range will also need cover panels to make all the widths line up down the run. (If you're using a standalone hood over a cooktop, obviously you don't need to worry about any of that.) Let's see, what else did I run into... don't forget light rail and top trim. If you are doing anything besides the Ikea standard, you will actually have an easier time getting custom trim to match if you are painting everything including doors yourself. To get our uppers to reach the ceiling, we used some kind of flat trim from Ikea (don't remember, probably light rail turned upside down) and then crown molding from the lumber supply mounted on top of that. Getting paint for the crown to match the Ikea trim took a couple of tries.

My feeling after doing an Ikea kitchen is that using everything from Ikea is much easier if you're going to do things the Ikea standard way -- all the holes are predrilled, all the finishes match, etc. But if you are going to customize trim etc, it's easier to cut down wood than thermofoil-covered MDF, so you will be saving yourself at least a little bit of annoyance there. The fellows who installed my kitchen were willing to cut down Ikea trim pieces the way I wanted, but it did complicate things for them. (For ex. I thought the Ikea light rail was too wide so they ripped all those long thermofoil-covered pieces down, which also meant they could no longer use the Ikea installation hardware so they had to drill new holes and use other hardware -- etc. They did not complain about any of this and yes they were wonderful.)

Re. the DIY paint matching the professional paint -- I think Scherr's uses Sherwin-Williams colors, so you should have no trouble getting a color match. However, the sheen might be different, so you might want to have a chat with the people at SW to see what they suggest you use. Maybe even paint a test board (comparing to a sample door if you can) to make sure it'll be close enough to suit you. The crown I painted is a little bit glossier than my doors but not enough to bother me (it is crown molding after all).


NOTES:

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clipped on: 01.08.2013 at 11:31 pm    last updated on: 01.08.2013 at 11:31 pm

RE: Kitchen Remodeling begins 1/3/2013 (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: Whit461 on 01.04.2013 at 08:49 am in Kitchens Forum

This is our Inspiration Kitchen. Ours will be a mirror image, but we are looking at redoing the windows on the outer wall, no uppers. A 30' GE Monogram DF range we got at a steal, and wall cabinets opposite the U shaped kitchen.


NOTES:

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clipped on: 01.06.2013 at 09:47 pm    last updated on: 01.06.2013 at 09:48 pm

RE: Vintage Kitchen Update (Follow-Up #14)

posted by: kompy on 12.22.2012 at 11:57 am in Kitchens Forum

After seeing your kitchen and adorable spice rack, I had to have some of those Griffith's spice jars and just bought a set on ETSY!!! I ordered the jadite green color. Someone on there also sells the labels....I bought some of those too! I will post my kitchen when it's done in March...I just ordered my Plain & Fancy cabinets. My kitchen now is not original, but remodeled in the mid-50's with the slab birch doors. My house is a "modern colonial" built in 1930.
Here's just one side of my kitchen...I need to come up with a plan for my new spice jars! :-)

1. Recess in wall behind range
2. Spice rack on end of island...open? or glass doors?

Kompy


NOTES:

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clipped on: 12.24.2012 at 11:20 am    last updated on: 12.24.2012 at 11:20 am

RE: finished! Vintage Cream in the City (Follow-Up #41)

posted by: shanghaimom on 05.02.2010 at 10:45 am in Kitchens Forum

Thank you, thank you, thank you! (o:

The fixture over the dining table is an old-fashioned linen and wire Chinese lantern which was black wire but i painted it all antique gold. (It took me about three weeks to paint.) I then found a fixture , ditched the shade and rigged up this shade.

Here is a pic of the pass-thru from the other side. It was a great solution for us...I get the light from the breakfast windows, plus the visual connection with that space.
eating nook


NOTES:

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clipped on: 10.14.2012 at 06:43 pm    last updated on: 10.14.2012 at 06:43 pm

2-Toned Kitchens - Trendy? Too much for small spaces?

posted by: Steph2000 on 07.03.2012 at 02:21 pm in Kitchens Forum

As I continue to scour the net and vacillate between inspiration and confusion, I keep getting drawn back to the look of 2 toned kitchens. I am most likely going to end up with a galley or U-shaped kitchen open to the DR and the front door/entry room. So, an island is likely not in my future. However, I see these kitchens occasionally that have darker lower cabinets and white uppers. I currently have a white kitchen and have loved it. I am still leaning towards a white kitchen with the remodel, but I do see some things to recommend the 2-toned look.

The dark lowers seems to ground the kitchen and not make the uppers look top heavy. It also seems like it would be easier to clean and disguise dirt if the lowers were dark wood. It could be a compromise point for my partner and I as he really wanted stained and I wanted white paint.

I tend to like it most when the counters are light/white. I suppose one has to be careful with the counter/backsplash applications with these kitchens?

In any case, I'm fishing for conversation and my bait is eye candy.

These first are IKEA kitchens:

(Notice the crazy/creative way that upper over the peninsula was wrapped around that beam via the crown)

Photobucket

Photobucket

Photobucket

Photobucket

Photobucket

Here's Bossanova's black and white carriage kitchen:

Photobucket

Photobucket

And a prior GW thread on this topic for more eye candy:
http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/kitchbath/msg0623550010553.html

Here is a link that might be useful: And a prior GW thread on this topic for more eye candy:

NOTES:

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clipped on: 10.14.2012 at 12:51 am    last updated on: 10.14.2012 at 01:18 am

RE: Almost Finished...lots of pics (Follow-Up #59)

posted by: michelle16 on 09.09.2012 at 09:11 pm in Kitchens Forum

Steph- u also asked where the dishwasher was, I was even able to get a latch on there to really throw people off! LOL! you don't actually have to turn it!

NOTES:

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clipped on: 10.14.2012 at 12:16 am    last updated on: 10.14.2012 at 12:16 am

RE: Almost Finished...lots of pics (Follow-Up #57)

posted by: michelle16 on 09.09.2012 at 09:09 pm in Kitchens Forum

Steph- u were wondering where the trash was, they made it look like 2 draws.


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clipped on: 10.14.2012 at 12:15 am    last updated on: 10.14.2012 at 12:15 am

RE: Almost Finished...lots of pics (Follow-Up #11)

posted by: michelle16 on 09.09.2012 at 08:43 am in Kitchens Forum

tiny microwave-looks like a tv, just fit, but it does the job!


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clipped on: 10.14.2012 at 12:13 am    last updated on: 10.14.2012 at 12:13 am

RE: Could my kitchen go in this direction? Pics included (Follow-Up #19)

posted by: kmcg85 on 03.12.2010 at 02:14 pm in Home Decorating & Design Forum

Since you're not feeling the carrara backsplash, I took some inspiration from the pretty blue tea kettle and found this pic! The bamboo shades add some warmth too!
Pretty blue tile


NOTES:

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clipped on: 10.14.2012 at 12:10 am    last updated on: 10.14.2012 at 12:10 am

Kitchen finished! White cabs, quartzite, leathered black. Whew!

posted by: babs711 on 07.14.2012 at 12:25 am in Kitchens Forum

We moved into our new build about three weeks ago. While I say the kitchen (and house) are complete, some things are missing that need to be done like counter stools that aren't here yet, a window seat cushion, upholstered chairs at the table that will be ordered, BLADES for the living room ceiling fan that aren't in yet. I've hardly hung a thing on the walls and am working on window treatments now. You get the picture! But we're in! And the months of planning and stewing are over! So here are some pics of the kitchen/dining/living room. I'm sure I'll have updates as I go.

DETAILS:
Cabinets: Eudora Frameless
Island countertop: White Macaubus Quartzite
Perimeter countertop: Leathered Absolute Black Granite
Sink: Kohler Riverby Cast Iron
Faucet: Moen Woodmere in Stainless
Hardware on solid doors/drawers: Amerock Highland Ridge in polished nickel
Glass knobs and Bin Pulls in polished nickel: Van Dyke's
Range & Dishwasher: Thermador
Refrigerator: Kitchenaid Pro
Refrigerator Drawers: Electrolux
Sharp Microwave Drawer

Close up of the tile. It's hard to get an accurate color since it's so glossy. It's more blue/green than portrayed in pics:

I was standing on a chair when I took this. I feel like it makes the dining table look like toy furniture! Ha!

Behold...the unfinished bar and the fan with no blades. We live in the deep south...no judging the fan! Behind those closed doors lies my DH's very unfinished man cave.

And you'd know that the day after I took these, my new sofa cushion inserts came in. It's all fluffy and new looking again. Oh well!


The Pantry is actually the same color as the entry you see right past the range wall in the kitchen (BM Gray Wisp). But I didn't use a flash so it looks funky here:

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clipped on: 10.13.2012 at 11:21 pm    last updated on: 10.13.2012 at 11:21 pm

Finished (another) white Kitchen - pics

posted by: emy315 on 03.22.2012 at 07:58 am in Kitchens Forum

I am not a frequent poster, but I learned so much form this site. Thanks to you all of you. Here is the end result:

Details:

Cabinets : Omega (mix between dynasty and custom) (island stain - truffle)
Range : 48 Wolf AG
Countertops: Kashmire White Granite
Fridge: 48 Subzero
Dishwasher : Kitchen Aid
Micro: 27' Monogram advantium
Floor: Porcelain tile (of hand I don't remember the name)
Hood: Rangcraft

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clipped on: 10.13.2012 at 11:17 pm    last updated on: 10.13.2012 at 11:19 pm

RE: Mid Century Modern style kitchen - suggestions? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: pawa on 06.09.2012 at 07:12 pm in Kitchens Forum

Hi Jerzeegirl -
This one is my all-time fave:
midcenturykitch

Please go to the link below for more pics.
I came across this kitchen while googling "dish knobs" because originally, that's what I wanted in my kitchen.

Here is a link that might be useful: Robyn Rigby Fisher


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clipped on: 10.13.2012 at 10:37 pm    last updated on: 10.13.2012 at 10:37 pm

Progress (2.5 days in; 1 more to go)!

posted by: KevinMP on 10.07.2012 at 08:39 pm in Kitchens Forum

Here are some pictures of the progress so far. A huge difference already and an amazing amount of storage I don't even think I could fill.

(Contractor still needs to finish the backsplash, trimming out the cabinets (the walls and floor were a nightmare for him), crown moulding, replacing the window, door and baseboard moulding, knobs/pulls, painting and touch up, and the warming drawer (which I've decided to relocate the make use of the blind cabinet next to the dishwasher with the drawer accessible from the "hallway" area)).

Before:

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During:

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After:

Stay tuned until Thursday night.

NOTES:

small microwave - fits in 18" pantry
clipped on: 10.11.2012 at 11:40 am    last updated on: 10.11.2012 at 11:41 am

98.627% Finished Kitchen - Transitional White Inset w/ glass tile

posted by: theanimala on 01.02.2010 at 03:00 pm in Kitchens Forum

After reading this site daily for 6 months now and getting tons of great advice it's time for us to post our finished kitchen. In keeping with the style of the house we needed to go more modern than traditional, but we didn't want something too contemporary. Also, we couldn't decide on painted or stained cabinets, so we decided to do both by painting the perimeter while having the island stained.

Although we moved no walls, it ended up being a bigger project then we expected as the old tile floor went through our foyer, powder room and laundry room. Also didn't have correct sub-flooring, and we wanted to move some of the appliances around, etc. The reason the it is only 98.627% completed, is we still have 1.373% left to do, such as glass shelves in glass front doors so in cabinet lighting can shine all the way through, etc.

Details:

Cabinets - Inset Shiloh Homestead painted MB Softwhite, Island Maple stained Espresso
Flooring - Tile Fashion Coffee 12 x 24
Countertops - Ceasarstone Raven, Ceasarstone Misty Carrera - Mitred Edge
Main Sink - Franke 33" SS Apron - FHX710-33S
Main Faucet - Generic Costco Brand
Prep Sink - Elkay - ELU1618
Prep Faucet - Danze Como Pulldown
Refrigerator - JennAir CD FD - JFC2089HES
Ovens - Electrolux - EW30EW65GS
Warming Drawer - Electrolux - EW30WD55GS
Microwave - Electrolux - EL27MO45GS
Cooktop - DCS 36" Drop-in - CTD-365
Hood - Bosch - DKE9365AUC
Beverage Center - GE Monogram - ZDBC240NBS
Dishwasher - Bosch
Backsplash - White Glass subway tile from theglassmosiacoutlet.com
Backsplash - Stainless Steel 1x2 tiles
Pulls - TopKnobs - Princetonian
Paint - BM 1542 Himalayan Trek

Before:

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After:

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Sink Area:

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Backsplash:

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Island:

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Island - Backside:

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Pantry Area - Closed:

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Pantry - Open:

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Lazy Suzan - Corner Pullout:

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A big thank you to everyone who gave such great advice over the past few months. If anyone has any questions on what we like /dislike please let us know.

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clipped on: 10.10.2012 at 11:45 am    last updated on: 10.10.2012 at 11:45 am

RE: Spinning, Spinning, Spinning - Can you help me get traction? (Follow-Up #12)

posted by: mpagmom on 10.10.2012 at 11:17 am in Kitchens Forum

You're my best spinning buddy, so I have to comment.

Your description of 50's ranch with simple cottage and a tad modern reminded me of firsthouse_mp:

http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/kitchbath/msg0614293210436.html

That's not necessarily a look you want, but you can see how something like that would work.

I think you're pretty close on design. You really want that pantry, so go for the adorable smaller fridge (provided it will give you enough storage). I'd save the final layout decisions until you pick a cabinet company and know your constraints from them. Go to kitchen showrooms and see what they offer. If you don't see anything that grabs you investigate mail order or local custom builders.

Focus on what is most important to you. For me, it was materials that would last. Black leathered granite will stand the test of time. Painted cabinets can be touched up and repainted. A wood floor can be refinished. To choose the particulars I decided I had to have a blue-green-gray wall color so I picked what would go best with that. For you it might be a tile that you swoon over. Choose your favorite one or three and see what you can actually find in your area. Then think about what cabinets you might put with them.

I've found my painted cabinets to be very cleanable. Maybe moreso than my old wood cabinets. If white is "out" or you want something different, look at two shades of gray. A lighter gray will pretend to be white without being white. I love these colors (although I know the style isn't what you'd want):

That wall cabinet is actually a light gray, but it sure looks white in the light. I'm pretty sure that's a honed dark gray granite, something like steel grey, which is inexpensive. Even a very inexpensive granite like uba tuba looks pretty special when it is honed or leathered.

Hope this helps!


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clipped on: 10.10.2012 at 11:42 am    last updated on: 10.10.2012 at 11:42 am

finished! Vintage Cream in the City

posted by: shanghaimom on 05.01.2010 at 09:14 pm in Kitchens Forum

Hi all,

We are finally finished with our kitchen remodel of our 1889 home. I have been a daily (truthfully, sometimes HOURLY) lurker and sporadic poster for almost two years. There is NO WAY I could have planned this remodel without the help of GW--We were living in China for over 5 years and I had to do all of my planning from there. This meant NO MAGAZINES, nor could I visit showrooms and see anything in person. Every time I had a question, I seemed to be able to find a thread about it. Not to mention all of the inspirational photos!!! I was so afraid of missing an important tidbit! (We were 13 hours ahead there, so I could easily miss a thread as it fell off onto pages two, three, four...)

Anyway, many thanks to all of the great TKO people who contribute to this forum.

Photos first! Details at the end. (o:

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pass-thru detail
Berta!
kit

cabinetry--local custom painted in BM Bone White oil-based enamel
walls-- BM Ballet White
counters--Zodiaq quartz Mystic Black (kind of a charcoal color)
pulls--Amerock Revitalize in Burnished Bronze
sink--Ticor zero-radius SS508
faucet--Kohler Vinnata in Vibrant Polished Nickel
range-36" Bertazzoni Heritage Series in Anthracite
hood- Vent-A-Hood NPH9-136
backsplash- 3" hexagonal Calcatta marble
pendants--Hinckley Knickerbocker (these are on clearance all over for a song right now...)
windows--Marvin double-hung cottage style

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clipped on: 10.09.2012 at 12:00 pm    last updated on: 10.09.2012 at 12:05 pm

Finished Kitchen with Acid Washed Marble

posted by: mazy123 on 09.27.2012 at 06:29 pm in Kitchens Forum

Thank you to so many on this forum for helping me with my kitchen. I learned so much from everyone here. I wouldn't have known about Bluestars, plugmold, hidden paper towels, and so much more without all of you!

My house was built in 1990 and the only thing we had done in the thirteen years we lived here was paint the cabinets white. It feels really good to have my kitchen finished!

Refrigerator was moved to other side of kitchen where pantry closet used to be. New casement windows were put in so that when you walk in the door you see trees in the backyard.

First pictures are of the old kitchen.

old kitchen

old window wall

old kitchen

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new window wall

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cabinets where railing used to be

microwave drawer and paper towel holder

charging station

view into family room with old hutch for flat screen

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clipped on: 10.06.2012 at 12:31 pm    last updated on: 10.06.2012 at 12:31 pm

RE: Finished Kitchen with Acid Washed Marble (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: mazy123 on 09.27.2012 at 06:52 pm in Kitchens Forum

Thanks Caspian and Breezygirl!

Realized I didn't put in picture so you could see large pulls that I used on pantry drawers and pot and pan drawers to right of stove.

Breezygirl- That is what I forgot! Pendant lights are by Flambeau. They are the Soho pendants. Chandelier is the Tassel Arm.

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clipped on: 10.06.2012 at 12:30 pm    last updated on: 10.06.2012 at 12:30 pm

Brooklyn Galley Kitchen Finished (not white!)

posted by: brooklyngalley on 05.12.2012 at 04:32 pm in Kitchens Forum

Although I am not a frequent GW poster, I referred to GW throughout my kitchen renovation planning. It was thanks to GW that I have the countertop and knobs/pulls that I envisioned but thought I would never have: THANK YOU! We are absolutely loving every inch of our new kitchen! I wish we had professional photos, but alas, these will have to do.

Before: One wall of cabs and appliances (everything was falling apart) left from the prior owner and one wall of IKEA shelves/storage/counter that I designed and lived with for 4 years as we saved for our renovation. Although I liked the accessibility of the open design on the IKEA wall (and I loved the SimpleHuman trash can and recycling can), the cleaning was difficult (thankfully, my brother-in-law doesn�t mind the cleaning and that entire wall is now in his new apartment). I also had very little counter space with this old plan. I vowed that my new kitchen would have very little open wall space and next to nothing on the counters. We would also have efficient appliances (including a DW � after 12 years of hand washing) that didn�t need to be velcroed together.

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After: HOORAY!

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42" wall cabs: right to the ceiling; the extra space and the look are just what we wanted

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I put an open shelf next to the window to keep my fruit (bottom shelves) & garlic, onions (top shelves) off the counter and to let in more light from our awkward window.

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All drawer base cabs except for 30" sink, 15" trash & 9" pantry: drawers rock and have changed my life for the better. Love the pegs and double-stacked utensil storage.

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Trash/Recycling: I finally figured out how to get 4 separate spaces. I had my husband cut one of the pull-out cans to fit my compost pail; one of favorite elements. Under the sink is glass/plastic on the left, paper on the right.

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Spice drawer: I like my spices are right in front of me (literally) as I chop and prep. In my old kitchen, they took up counter space and were hard to clean.

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Tall/Skinny Fridge: everyone should have one. It�s only been a week, but I can�t seem to fill it! I love that I can see everything.

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Tall/Skinny pantry: I opted for this instead of a larger fridge. Love the storage and ease of accessibility. Still have yet to fill it.

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Range/Skinny spice drawers: I am a huge Berta Fan! The spice drawers are skinny and long: perfect for cooking utensils, knife sharpeners, grill supplies, etc.

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18" DW/Deep Sink/Pull-out Faucet/Sink Storage Tilt: 18" is perfect for our family of three. The sink/faucet/tilt storage: highly recommend.

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Green: a color that we love and have all over our home. The pictures don�t do the colors justice (especially the counter which looks rather greyish in these photos). And in case you�re wondering, the textured porcelain tile floor feels amazing � not like other hard/cold tile that I have read about on GW (apologies for the renovation dust that is still on the floor).

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Details:

Size: 8.75� long x 6.75� wide x 8� high
Design: me (inspired by the slate fish etchings mounted on tent stakes, by the fridge, that my husband made in a printmaking class before I met him)
Timeframe: Due to a cracked cabinet (which Kraftmaid replaced � no questions asked � very easy to work with), our 3-week renovation turned into 5 weeks, but well worth it. Our contractor was amazing. The only structural change we made was to the kitchen entryway.
Cabinets: Kraftmaid � Maple � Hayward style, Honey Spice stain
Countertop: Rosemary Caesarstone (see my other GW post on this topic � thanks to GW I was able to find this recently discontinued stone)
Range: 30" SS Bertazzoni Professional Series X304GGVX
Refrigerator: 24" (80" height) SS Liebherr CS1311
Dishwasher: 18" SS Bosch SPX5ES55UC
OTR Microwave: 30" SS LG LMV2015ST
Floor: Daltile Continental Slate (porcelain tile) � Brazilian Green
Tile: American Olean - Legacy Glass � Celedon (ordered from Artwalk Tile � GW tip � thank you!)
Knobs & Pulls: Satin Nickel � 1" diameter knobs (K-12), 4" pulls (BN-3) - Horton Brasses (another GW tip � thank you!)
Sink: 23"SS Elkay Lustertone ELU2115
Faucet: SS Grohe Concetto Pull-Down 32 665
Track Light: Satin Nickel - Eurofase TK-5VTX3-34 Vortex 5-Light
UC Lighting: Super Bright LED strips

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clipped on: 07.04.2012 at 12:57 pm    last updated on: 07.04.2012 at 12:58 pm

RE: Grayish paint to coordinate with SW Blonde? (Follow-Up #18)

posted by: ttodd on 11.17.2011 at 09:32 am in Home Decorating Forum

Isn't Homeagain's place great?

I've always liked this PB DR very much. The walls are BM Weimaraner:

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clipped on: 11.18.2011 at 02:16 pm    last updated on: 11.18.2011 at 02:16 pm

RE: Form or Function? No room for Crown Moulding on Cabinets :( (Follow-Up #21)

posted by: detroit_burb on 10.19.2011 at 09:08 am in Kitchens Forum

Bellajourney, I've done three IKEA kitchens, I love what you can do with the system. the uppers are called 30" but are really 30 3/8". I like a number of the suggestions above for fitting out your soffits with moldings and I will add a suggestion to finish the bottoms of the cabinets that will save some precious millimeters.

Instead of light rail, you can cover the bottom of the cabinets with the 24x80" cover panels because these are 1/2" thick, and the light rail is over 1" thick. Have the cover panel extend past the front of the box to just shy of the door front, and leave a space in the back to mount LED strip lighting, or other low profile lighting to be mounted directly on the cabinet box, not on the cover panel (i.e. "recess" the lighting so it does not protrude much) for under cabinet lighting.

You can also plan for 3/4" countertop material instead of the usual almost 1.5" material. The typical countertop height comes to about 36" with the usual 3cm tops, you can do just over 35" and still be comfortable.

another suggestion is if there is a subfloor under your current floor, you can strip it down before laying something over it.

most appliances will fit under 15", and good lighting will make it feel bigger.


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clipped on: 10.19.2011 at 11:37 am    last updated on: 10.19.2011 at 11:37 am

I have a finished white kitchen to share!

posted by: aceofdiamonds on 09.24.2011 at 04:44 pm in Kitchens Forum

I haven't posted on this site, but I read diligently while we were building our new home. I thought you might want to see a few shots of my new kitchen. I am soooo loving it.

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clipped on: 10.13.2011 at 12:12 pm    last updated on: 10.13.2011 at 12:13 pm

RE: Stainless DW White Kitchen - what did you do with toe kick? (Follow-Up #10)

posted by: willtv on 09.30.2011 at 12:14 am in Kitchens Forum

Krazed, While we don't have a SS/DW we do have white cabs and black appiances.
Since our kitchen is black & white we went with black toe kicks which is probably not an option for you but here's a shot anyway.

Judging from the pictures posted by others, I'd be inclined to go with the black panel that came with your machine.


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clipped on: 09.30.2011 at 02:00 pm    last updated on: 09.30.2011 at 02:00 pm

RE: Two very similar layouts...which would you choose? (Follow-Up #13)

posted by: lisa_a on 09.24.2011 at 01:35 am in Kitchens Forum

You are very welcome!

btw, I figured out that my estimates for the round table seating are off by 12". Each bench area is 24" deep with about 6" overlap of table over seating. So that bench span needs to be 72" across, not 60". If you like that plan, you'll need to take 12" from the left side, which basically means losing that cab there since you'd only have 6" left, or you can take 6" from each side, which would give you a 27" cab next to the DW and a 12" cab on the other side. What would be very cool is if you could do something like this for seating in that corner:

Reeds Kitchen traditional kitchen

Hopefully your contractor and cab maker can help you figure this out. Just be sure to watch your clearances, especially around the table, pantry and fridge, so that you have enough room to move about and work.

Here are a few NKBA recommendations for minimums to help you.
36" for squeeze behind room and 44" for walk past room for aisles with seating. If there are major appliances in the area, more space is better for main paths.
42" aisles for 1-cook kitchens and 48" for 2-cook kitchens.
Allow 24" of width for each diner. 18" leg room for table height seating. The 36" round table is snug, more cafe seating or cocktail seating, than dining but it's more sociable to be looking at each other than sitting in a row.
Allow extra length and width if you have seating on adjacent sides. Two people at the corner can't share the same space.

You can cheat a bit on a few of the minimums. We have 41" between table and island (no seating) for a main aisle in our kitchen and it works for us. Several GWers have had narrower aisles without problems. Rhome410 has 36" between her rangetop and island with a family of 10 and it works for them. I wouldn't, however, want to go less than the 24" seating width. Don't assume you can design with less than minimums without doing a mock-up of the space and making sure it will work, that you have enough room to move about, open cab doors & drawers, fridge doors, etc, without cursing and wishing you had just a few more inches.

Good luck and please keep us posted!


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clipped on: 09.30.2011 at 01:44 pm    last updated on: 09.30.2011 at 01:44 pm

banquette dimension info (Follow-Up #16)

posted by: lisa_a on 09.25.2011 at 12:53 pm in Kitchens Forum

I've been trying to find an article about banquette dimensions for you but I can't find the one I'm thinking of. I thought I'd bookmarked it but guess not, dang it.

So here are bits and pieces of info I've pulled together from other places.

From a KF thread last year, quoting a Fine Homebuilding article on their website:
In case anyone else is interested, they recommend a 3-5 degree angle on the back and 18-22" seat.

From a 2008 entry at The Kitchen Designer blog:
The better banquette, taking its place, is about comfort!

Start with a much shorter cabinet height, approximately 14-15" or so. Typically, a standard cabinet height for a banquette is 18" high. Then, you have a 2" cushion. Out with the 2" cushion! What is far better is a 4-5" cushion. Make the cushions like a sofa cushion....comfortable, yet supportive. The word I use repeatedly is "cushy."

From another post on KF, referencing the book 'more not so big solutions for your home' has measurements and useful images for building booths. They recommend an overlap of 4-5" between seat and table. (I designed for 6" so adjust the design as needed. This will depend on how deep your bench is, too. You don't want to be seated too far away from the table nor do you want to be squished up tight to it either. A mock-up might help you figure this out.)

The above book would be a good resource for you so that you, your contractor and cab maker design a banquette area that is comfortable for you.


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clipped on: 09.30.2011 at 01:43 pm    last updated on: 09.30.2011 at 01:44 pm

RE: Problems with marble install -need help! (Follow-Up #17)

posted by: GreenDesigns on 08.28.2011 at 04:09 pm in Kitchens Forum

OK, I found a diagram to help with visualization here.

The top diagrams show what edging on 3cm stone looks like. The stone itself is solid, so once it's edged, it merely rests on top of the cabinet boxes, no problem.

When you have a laminated edge, like in the lower diagrams, you have an issue because the edge is thicker than the body. If you just put that top onto a cabinet, as is, then the built up portion hangs over the front portion of the cabinet frame. As I said, with frameless cabinets, you wouldn't even be able to open the drawers if it were installed like that. On framed cabinets, you can get away with installing it like that, because you have a frame before the drawer starts. That doesn't mean that is the correct way to install the counter. It's just that it won't cause any access issues. It still looks wrong, and IS wrong.

The correct way to install counters with built up edges is to first place plywood over the cabinet box that is the depth of the "hangdown" portion of the built up edge (usually 3/4".) That way, the counters install with their lower edge level with the top of the cabinet box, just as 3cm stone does.

Your installer and GC did not perform this step. Your counter is installed incorrectly. In addition, you have issues with blow outs, poor color matching epoxy, and an installer who seems to be feeling his way through the install like it's his first time.

It isn't an acceptable situation, and your GC should be all over the counter installer to correct this for you. He IS the GC, and it's ultimately his responsibility to handle issues like this---especially when the error was allowed to occur because of his ignorance. He should be horribly embarrassed and be assuring you that he will correct the issue, and thanks to you will never make that mistake again.

Stick to your guns and demand a redo and let him do his job of sourcing where to find the marble and a new fabricator. It's what you're paying him to do. He needs to step up and do his job. Or he needs to be discharged for cause.


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clipped on: 08.31.2011 at 11:57 pm    last updated on: 08.31.2011 at 11:57 pm

Total Epiphany--about the cream/ivory paint

posted by: beekeeperswife on 05.21.2011 at 09:16 am in Home Decorating Forum

Ok, it's going on 9am, should have been to the store by now to buy that paint, but I wanted to just double check how each would look in the morning light, with a white lamp in front of it. Also how the wasabi green accent would work with each one.

I kept leaning towards the White Linen because it was a little less yellowish.

HOWEVER....

I wanted to see what Maria Killam's opinion on White Linen was. I finally "heard" what I've read before....

"if you don't have enough light streaming in your house for most parts of the day, then white is not the best idea. What will happen instead is your walls will look gray and dingy because the shadows all on their own will simply cause your white walls to appear gray. So what do you do instead? Well, if you still want a neutral, you intentionally choose a gray that is dark enough so that it looks. . . gray not dingy. "

So I looked at the samples again. The side that was on the shadow side of the lamp looked dingy. There is no curtain on the window right now, and the shade is all the way up! It is bright and sunny out. I can't do white in this room! I went back and looked at my inspiration photo. (I'll post it again, just in case you didn't see it before) That room has 2 windows, at least. (on different sides of the room) It has plenty of light. I will be putting this back in my inspiration folder because now I know so much more, and maybe in the "next" house I'll do it.

Thanks to all for your input and help. I do love these 2 colors and I hope that you don't think your efforts to help were wasted on me. I have learned so much!

I think I'm going with Weimeramer. It looks good, will go with the rocks, and it think it will make the mbr look great.

Amagansett Beach Retreat contemporary bedroom

NOTES:

Walls BM Linen White
Trim BM Dove White
clipped on: 07.29.2011 at 02:40 pm    last updated on: 07.29.2011 at 02:41 pm