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Liatris experiment worked!

posted by: bakemom on 04.10.2012 at 01:12 pm in Winter Sowing Forum

Seems like last fall we are talking about Liatris or purple gayfeather. As you know, many of the seeds are not viable and the woofies are hard to manage. SOMEONE suggested just harvesting the stalk with the seeds ripe and still attached. Then you just dig a shallow trench and lay the thing down and wait until spring.

It worked. I have a 5 inch line of liatris sprouts - nearly the length of the stalk piece. That is quite exciting! Anyone try this with gaillardia? Just bury the head?


clipped on: 04.11.2012 at 09:15 pm    last updated on: 04.11.2012 at 09:16 pm

RE: Liatris experiment worked! (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: kqcrna on 04.11.2012 at 07:26 pm in Winter Sowing Forum

Gaillardia tip: Bakemom, this is assuming that you already have a gaillardia growing in your yard, but... if you take a sharp knife and cut into the plant root, in several spots, it will put out babies. Think of cutting in a pattern like spokes in a bicycle wheel. I did it in fall; In spring I had more babies around it, all in lines, than I knew what to do with.



clipped on: 04.11.2012 at 09:15 pm    last updated on: 04.11.2012 at 09:15 pm

RE: Where do you place your WS containers? (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: docmom on 04.19.2011 at 04:18 pm in Winter Sowing Forum

Once I have containers sprouting, I usually pull the sprouted containers to one edge of my "pot ghetto" so I can find them more easily for checking moisture levels and dunking them in a bucket of water when needed. I also open the tops and actually set neighboring pots in each other's tops to hold them open to keep them from over heating.



clipped on: 03.10.2012 at 09:21 pm    last updated on: 03.10.2012 at 09:21 pm

RE: Where do I go to get this? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: aquawise on 10.02.2011 at 12:01 am in Seed Saving Forum

This is where I go to see the pod ans the seeds as well as the new seedling. Hope it helps you!

Here is a link that might be useful: seeds


clipped on: 02.08.2012 at 08:41 pm    last updated on: 02.08.2012 at 08:41 pm

RE: 2012 expensive plants (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: franknjim on 02.03.2012 at 11:45 am in Midwest Gardening Forum

I am a shop for value kind of guy so I usually won't pay full retail price for anything unless I just have to have it. You might consider joining a plant Coop. You can get most plants at wholesale prices. Do a search online for "BnP Plant Buying Coop". I am a member of it and have bought around 100 varieties of tissue cultures hostas through it plus other things for a fraction of the cost that others pay. They hold coops all year for all types of perennials and sometimes tropicals. You can even get certain things before they go to market. One of the ladies that runs the coop is Woodthrush here on GW. She usually hangs out in the hosta forum, especially the hosta exchanges part.


clipped on: 02.08.2012 at 02:59 am    last updated on: 02.08.2012 at 02:59 am

More Newbie packs for sasbe

posted by: bakemom on 01.21.2012 at 01:18 pm in Winter Sowing Forum

Donations continue to fly in. I have tons of packs ready to go. SASBE with 4 stamps for the return trip.


Be mindful of the new postal rates.

Minimum - 20 packs of flowers and 10 packs of veggies. All are my choice. Unblock your email please. Let's go!


clipped on: 02.07.2012 at 06:32 pm    last updated on: 02.07.2012 at 06:32 pm

RE: protecting geraniums from the frost (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: jeannie7 on 11.27.2008 at 03:56 pm in Geranium Forum

Here we are again disagreeing about the temperature of a garage in winter in a zone that does have winter temperatures that approach the frezing mark.
Open the garage door to let the car out and what temperature is outside comes inside the garage.
The only thing about a garage is it might not be as windy.

Any garage that is open to winter's cold is not a place to store a geranium....or any plant for that matter.
The geranium can renew itself when the sun returns in February/March.
But, it must not be touched by frost.

Into a cool area of the basement...the crawl space might...might be above the temperature that would harm it.
A coldcellar or fruit cellar or a cool area of the basement that is not heated is ideal.
There it spends the winter...alone, untouched by water, by light, or heat.
It can be left on a shelf, in its pot or not, or in a paper bag that is left open to allow moisture to escape.
It can be hung upside down (that's the easy way to hang) and left as is.

In February, bring it out, cut it back to about 4 - 6 inches, given fresh potting soil in a clean pot, given material that will prevent soil from clogging up the drainage holes, watered and given a sunny window.
Soon new leaves form. Its at this time the plant is given some fertilizer--1/4 rate -- until the plant is well leafed.
That takes about 3 - 4 weeks.
Maybe before it goes outside again, it might show a flower bud--in any way, it will flower again as good as ever.

Every day or so turn the plant 1/4 turn to allow full sun measure to the whole plant.

Allow the plant to dry down somewhat...don't let it dry out, between waterings and always water to drainage.
Dump the excess.

But, it must never be touched by frost.

The other way is to let the plant live on as it was outside by placing into a pot and given a sunny window until the flowering stops.
AT this time, it can go into the coolness of the basement until February.
Some just continue to treat it like any houseplant. Water when it needs it, give it as much sun as weather permits, and in February, cut it back, re-pot with fresh potting soil and continue to treat it as a coming houseplant.


clipped on: 09.05.2011 at 08:39 pm    last updated on: 09.05.2011 at 08:39 pm

RE: Taking Geraniums Out of Winter Storage (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: goren on 03.27.2011 at 12:31 pm in Geranium Forum

Mary, they've been in storage so let's assume they have been kept in a cool place, have not been watered, and kept out of light.
Now the sun is returning, soon it will be April and high time stored plants can come ouf dormancy and given fresh potting soil, a clean pot, something to keep the soil away from the drainage holes, the plant cut back to encourage new foliage and water to enable it to take up nutrition.
The amount of cut-back is up to you but usually 4" is a good size to take it back to. Clean away all old stems, broken or damaged, any old leaves or flowers hanging on.
Use sharp scissors or pruners so that you see good green.

Soaking the roots will be done after you plant it because you will water the plant until drainage is seen below.
Soaking the roots might be considered if you feel they wont get the required water when you water the plant but if you give it frsh soil, a thorough watering after planting, there should be no concern for the roots getting their fill.

The water that accumulates in the saucer below will be left for about 10 minutes to allow full drainge....then dumped so that it cannot be re-sucked up around the roots which got rid of it.
Then given the best sun you can give it...south or west or east is a good esposure and in about 10 days you should begin to see new growth and advancing foliage each day for about a month when the foliage will be quite full.
When first watered, no more water unttil it begins to foliate, then only as the plant needs it. Every time you water, water to drainage and dump the excess.
Poke your finger down to test whether dampness is there...if so, let it go another 2 - 3 - 4 days, then test again. Do not overwater...the plant can only use a little at this time....its the sun that determines how fast the plant grows and its easy to water too much thinking the plant needs it. The finger test is a reliable way to determine that.

Each or every other day, turn the plant 1/4 turn thus ensuring all parts of the plant is receiving adequate sun.

Don't be concerned if the flowring doesn't come before setting it outside--it will come in its time.
When temperatures outside allow it, put it out during daylight hours, back indoors at night, back outside -- indoors...each day giving longer periods and acclimatizing it when it will go out and stay out.

Geraniums expand greatly their roots and can be given containers that suit their roots.


clipped on: 09.05.2011 at 08:28 pm    last updated on: 09.05.2011 at 08:29 pm