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Organic crabgrass killer options

posted by: kincade on 04.12.2008 at 07:17 pm in Organic Lawn Care Forum

After a few years of organic lawn care, i'm about ready to break down and try something else to kill my crabgrass. My back lawn now is about 25% crabgrass and I need to get this problem taken care of before it spreads further.

I'd love an option other than weed-b-gon and I did some extensive web searching and came up with these.

http://www.greenguardian.us/prod_weedcont.html

and

http://www.crabgrassalert.com/product_info.html

and here, baking soda is mentioned:

http://www.garden-counselor-lawn-care.com/crab-grass-killer-for-st-augustine.html

Does anyone have experience with any of these options? I suppose it's not the end of the world if I use one application of weed-b-gon, but I hate to abandon 3 years of organic-only lawn...

Thanks in advance for any help!

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clipped on: 08.21.2014 at 11:29 pm    last updated on: 08.21.2014 at 11:30 pm

RE: Full Sun Heucheras or Heucherellas (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: vivian_2010 on 10.02.2013 at 11:02 pm in Heuchera Forum

Hi Terri,

Flower-Frenzy is an excellent enabler and I have so much enjoyed her posts and beautiful pictures.

I live just south of you in the Northwestern Subs of Chicago. I grow most of my heucheras in full sun or mostly sunny locations. Below are the ones doing really well for me, without extra need for water. I pretty much treat them like sun perennials:
1. Frosted Violets (absolute love this one, beautiful violet color, and tall and strong),
2. Obsidian (Dark Purple, color stays nice all summer)
3. Caramel (nice yellow)
4. Belle Note (lots of pink blooms)
5. Frost (small plant and so cute. Used to be my favorite until I got Frosted Violet)
6. Cajun Fire

The following are in a place with 3-4 hours hot sun and have been doing great:
Georgia peach (big and beautiful)
Fire Alarm
Paris (best heucheras with the longest hot pink blooms)
Berry Smoothie (just got it a couple months ago after seeing FF's pictures)

You can not go wrong with Casita Azul. I have been ordering from them for the last 3 years for the ones that can not be found in local stores. high quality and good service. Their plants grow very well.

Good luck.
Vivian

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clipped on: 05.21.2014 at 11:12 am    last updated on: 05.21.2014 at 11:12 am

RE: Full Sun Heucheras or Heucherellas (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: flower-frenzy on 10.02.2013 at 04:05 pm in Heuchera Forum

Terri~always happy to enable! Personally, I can't seem to get enough of heucheras/ellas! I like that they'll grow just about anywhere, unlike other plants that need mostly sun or mostly shade.

I've had lots of luck with heucheras in full sun. Out of the three you listed, I grow Miracle and Peach Crisp. They both grow well in full sun and Peach Crisp acutally needs some sun in order to color up. I don't like Miracle very much. It's green most of the year and doesn't color up nearly so nicely as the pictures show. One I do have that has those particular colors is heucherella Solar Eclipse. That one grows in full sun and is a much better option, imho.

I grow most of mine in lots of sun, except for the lime green and yellow ones. Those seem to need at least afternoon shade, if not all day shade, or else their leaves burn to a crisp.

As a general rule, the darker the leaf, the more sun the plant can take. I grow Palace Purple, Blackout, Frost, Blackberry Crisp and Midnight Ruffles in hot afternoon sun and they don't scorch unless I forget to water them. The only thing I notice with the full sun is that they tend to "green up" a bit in the heat of the summer. They go back to being purple in the spring and fall, though.

Others I have luck with in full sun are Caramel, Amber Waves, Melting Fire, Sashay, Rio, Mahogany, Big Top Gold, Zipper, Venus, Geisha's Fan, Marvelous Marble, Brass Lantern and Green Spice. All of my others I have in afternoon shade, so I can't attest to their sun tolerance. I suspect they'll take more sun than I'm giving them, though.

I should also note that I've noticed that adequate watering plays a big part in how sun tolerant my plants are. If I forget to water, even the ones that are listed as "full sun" plants will get crispy leaves.

I grow over 70 varieties of heucheras and heucherellas. If there are any others you're looking for specific info on, let me know and I'll see if I can help.

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clipped on: 05.21.2014 at 11:10 am    last updated on: 05.21.2014 at 11:11 am

RE: Hardy Hibiscus- cut the wood or not? (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: tomva on 04.13.2010 at 12:03 pm in Hibiscus Forum

I cut mine back in the late fall to a few inches then in april ,i pull the mulch away from the wood thats left and they usually start shooting up new growth when temps hit 80s during day and 60s at nite,they grow very quickly,4 ft in a month and half usually here in zone 7 bloom by july 4th,I had three stalks on one plant last year and this year have 8 stalks coming up, in mid may to late may I usually take cuttings and start other plants using root hormone and baggie and jar of water method,works great,and the new plants will catch the mother by july 4th and bloom also,I love hardy hibiscus

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clipped on: 04.05.2014 at 08:15 am    last updated on: 04.05.2014 at 08:15 am

RE: Very wet ground, tree options? (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: gardengal48 on 05.15.2013 at 06:56 pm in Trees Forum

There is a difference - a BIG difference - between a plant that prefers moist soils and those that will grow in wet soils. And especially those that are winter wet. Many trees and other plants will take occasional flooding during the growing season but will not tolerate wet roots in winter.

If the location will drown a Thuja (aka "swamp" cedar), then you can bet the Sequoiadendron is not gonna be happy - this tree likes moist but very well drained soils - so forget that. If the thuja is a real issue, then your choices are somewhat limited.

First determine how wet your location really is and at what time of year. Then use the attached link as a basis for research on the individual plants to determine how much (and when) wet they will tolerate. I'd leave growth rate at the tail end of my criteria - it is much more important to get a tree for the right cultural conditions than it is to choose based on growth rate.This is going to be an investment both in terms of time and dollars so it makes sense to go into it properly prepared.

Here is a link that might be useful: plants for wet soils

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clipped on: 09.22.2013 at 11:36 am    last updated on: 09.22.2013 at 11:36 am

RE: Very wet ground, tree options? (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: joeinmo on 05.14.2013 at 11:41 pm in Trees Forum

Giant Sequoia

They love water, and zone 6 is perfect. Can withstand very high winds as long as you have a few where they can interlock their roots.

The conditions you describe mimic the conditions they see from mountain snow melting all year and seeping 2-3 ft below the ground.

I added link where you can buy cheap.

They grow fast over 3ft a year

Here is a link that might be useful: Giant Sequoia supplier

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clipped on: 09.22.2013 at 11:29 am    last updated on: 09.22.2013 at 11:33 am

RE: Pond Vacs (Follow-Up #10)

posted by: tootseug on 04.08.2011 at 10:59 pm in Ponds & Aquatic Plants Forum

Ella5. I still love the Oase Pondovac4. I'm wondering if your pond may be too deep for it though. I think, think that about 3 ft is what they say the depth can go. But where I got it, it was for 339.oo. I'll post info at the end of this. Nate is super helpful, I emailed him back and forth and he took the time to give me very informative and detailed answers. I got in it the mail in no time too. I'd call him and ask, or email him, tell him what you have, and he'll definitely email you. The price posted was 349.oo (on ebay) but he gave me another 10.oo off because that what he charges on his website.

Here's his website. He has lots of useful info there too.

Nate at Practical Garden Ponds

www.practicalgardenponds.com

nate@practicalgardenponds.com

His website has his phone number.

Gotta tell you, I was really impressed with him, and his willingness to put the time in to be helpful to me. I will definitely be doing business with him in the future. And the price, was the very best on the web. I spent days researching....cause that's just what I do.

Anyway, happy vacumning. You won't be sorry.

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clipped on: 06.30.2013 at 02:29 pm    last updated on: 06.30.2013 at 02:29 pm

RE: Where can I get 20% vinegar? (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: ghoghunter on 06.11.2006 at 09:16 am in Organic Gardening Forum

I saw a company called Maestro Grow that used to carry it. You could try calling them. Here is the link.There is a way to make an "organic" type of "roundup" solution. It is 1 gallon of 20% vinegar 2 ounces orange oil and a few drops of liquid dish soap. The 20% vinegar is available from a company in Texas called Maestro-Gro. You mix the ingredients together and spray just like you would with roundup except it is totally organic. The orange oil is the food grade type and is also available from the site or I imagine you could buy a much smaller quantity from a craft store.

Here is a link that might be useful: Maestro Grow

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clipped on: 05.11.2013 at 06:07 pm    last updated on: 05.11.2013 at 06:08 pm

RE: How to you hide / conceal your garden hose? PIC (Follow-Up #13)

posted by: mosswitch on 10.28.2011 at 09:36 am in Landscape Design Forum

We have really heavy, long hoses (too heavy to be dragging around) that stay in place permanently running through the back section of our property, and each is equipped with Y- connectors and quick disconnects that the more lightweight hoses can be attached to. Those hoses are stored on hose hangers when they aren't used, and we have extenders that reach all over the place and also hook to soakers and drip systems that are in the beds. The big hoses hook to spiggots with extenders and quick disconnects. Even the spiggots are equipped with big Y-connectors so we can run two hoses to different areas.

This summer was so horrifically hot and dry that we really studied our gardens and put in a lot of soakers and drips so that we wouldn't have to be constantly running hoses, and will put in a few more next year. It has saved us countless hours and labor, and instead we are mostly just turning spiggots on and flipping switches.

It was a lot of work and took a lot of thought to set up but sure is worth it! We have an acre of garden so we had to do something serious about watering.

Where we use impulse sprinklers, we have rigged them up with short extenders and quick disconnects so we can attach them to the ends of any handy hose, instead of having to drag the whole thing around.

So far it has worked pretty well. At the end of the season we coil up everything except the permanent hoses (which are brown, and practically invisible) and store them in the shed.

Sandy

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clipped on: 04.12.2013 at 10:34 pm    last updated on: 04.12.2013 at 10:34 pm

RE: How to you hide / conceal your garden hose? PIC (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: hostaLes on 10.27.2011 at 08:33 am in Landscape Design Forum

How about a valved wye connection at the hose-cock with a hose connected to the rear side running tight to the house, under the deck and to an extender at the rear of the house. A short, easy to handle and store section of hose could then be attached to either the remaining hose connection on the wye or the extender, depending on where-ever you need to water.

Les

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clipped on: 04.12.2013 at 10:29 pm    last updated on: 04.12.2013 at 10:30 pm

RE: Best planting baskets to use... (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: pashta_2006 on 03.20.2011 at 08:57 am in Ponds & Aquatic Plants Forum

There are endless ways to plant. I have a corkscrew rush that has happilly lived in just a plain plastic pot for a few years. I put water lilies in an oil pan (you didn't mention water lilies but I just threw that in there). I have some plants in the plastic mesh containers. I also have floating islands that I have made (do a search on floating islands and you'll get all kinds of ideas).

There was also a pattern for making planting containers from landscaping fabric but I can't find the thread. Maybe someone else can find it.

Good luck and be sure to post pictures in the Gallery!!! We love pictures.
Anne

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clipped on: 04.10.2013 at 09:04 am    last updated on: 04.10.2013 at 09:32 am

RE: Best planting baskets to use... (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: steiconi on 04.02.2013 at 01:35 am in Ponds & Aquatic Plants Forum

I use the plasticized woven bags that some feed comes in--chicken feed, catfish feed, rabbit feed...you get the idea.

Either stand them on the bottom of the pond and roll down the top of the bag to appropriate height OR roll the top of the bag around 2/3 of a pool noodle for a floating pot. Fill with unscented clay kitty litter and fertilizer tabs or your favorite planting medium. If it floats too high in the water, add a rock or two at the bottom.

The kitty litter is made of bentonite, also used for lining natural ponds and is safe for fish and plants--just make sure you get unscented. Special Kitty, the cheapest stuff from Walmart, works fine.

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clipped on: 04.10.2013 at 09:01 am    last updated on: 04.10.2013 at 09:02 am

RE: Ideal Depth of Bog-Garden? 16-18', 24', or 30'? (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: KWoods on 05.19.2005 at 12:19 pm in Bog Garden Forum

Well..... I laughed.... was that wrong? ;-)

I can't tell you what to do either but I can tell you what I did. I've had an artificial bog for five years now after moving from an area where I used to grow bog plants plunked right in the wet ground. I grow terrestrial orchids and CPs mostly.

I built a small retaining wall with stone so I didn't have to do too much digging. The resulting "hole" ended up being around two feet deep (sorry, I don't usually measure these types of things, coulda been more or less). I lined that with some old thick carpet so tree roots wouldn't be able to get through easily and so the liner wouldn't be otherwise compromised. I lined that with a PVC liner. I then filled the bottom 6"-8" inches (appx., again sorry didn't measure) with foam packing peanuts, this is so there is always water in the bottom but the peat does not rot. I cut just a couple slits around 2" (there I go not measuring again) from the top of the liner. I OVER-filled the rest with 50/50 (again appx., I really hate measuring) peat sand mixture by around 6". Some areas of the top where I wanted calopogon or rose pogonia I topped with additional sand. When I plant certain things (eg. Cypripedium) I might amend the mix to make it drain a little faster/slower. A fairly large area outside the liner also stays wet (amended with the same peat/sand mixture) and I use that to grow additional bog plants and orchids. Most of the surface I "mulch" with long fibered sphagnum each spring. In winter I lay a large burlap "blanket" on top of the whole deal and mulch with leaves. In five years I've lost one beautiful Darlingtonia (I still miss her) and a few thread leaf sundews. I'm in a slightly colder microclimate of zone 7 on the North shore of Long Island and I grow lots of southern CPs that have done real well. I have around 30 CP flowers getting ready to blossom.

Hope this helps some, again sorry for all the approximations.

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clipped on: 04.01.2013 at 05:24 am    last updated on: 04.01.2013 at 05:24 am

RE: How to eliminate 101 rabbits from my flower garden (Follow-Up #12)

posted by: MeMyselfAndI on 07.09.2001 at 06:58 pm in Meadows & Prairies Forum

There are always rabbits here and they ate a lot of my stuff, too. Here are things they definitely don't eat here:
a = annual, p = perennial, zone 5
heliotrope - a
lantana - a
scented geraniums - a
stokesia - p
nemesia - a
butterfly bush - p
cleome (self-seeding)
begonia - a
azalea - shrub
4'0'clocks - a
alyssum - a
ageratum - a
lavender - p
rosemary - a
tomato plants - a
foxglove - biennial
lunaria - biennial
pentas - a
rhododendron - shrub
violets - p
hosta - p
iris - p
asters - a

Most of the stuff they ate, I didn't replace. Some things I really like I got again & put in pots where the critters can't get them. (I think I have more stuff growing in pots now than in the ground.)

If they are living on your property, you may be able to eradicate some of their living quarters to reduce their numbers.

There are many lists of toxic plants. Although they are little rebels, they don't usually eat the stuff on those lists. The leaves have to be toxic, not just the roots or berries or something like that.

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clipped on: 03.27.2013 at 06:05 pm    last updated on: 03.27.2013 at 06:05 pm

RE: How to eliminate 101 rabbits from my flower garden (Follow-Up #11)

posted by: John Hilty Illinois (Guest) on 07.04.2001 at 07:06 pm in Meadows & Prairies Forum

There's another approach to dealing with the rabbit problem: use plants that rabbits don't like to eat (yes, I know, this will sound rather incredible to some people). Here's a list of 30 rabbit-resistant plants for a wildflower garden:

1) Milkweeds (Asclepias sp.), all species. The leaves are bitter tasting and poisonous.

2) Dogbanes (Apocynum sp.), all species. The leaves are bitter tasting and poisonous.

3) Lobelias (Lobelia sp.), all species. The leaves are poisonous.

4) Delphiniums (Delphinium sp.), all species. The leaves are poisonous.

5) Ragworts (Senecio sp.), especially Senecio plattensis. The leaves are poisonous.

6) St. John's Wort (Hypericum sp.), most species. The leaves produce a photosensitive reaction when eaten.

7) Native Thistles (Cirsium sp.). The leaves are too spiny.

8) Ironweed (Vernonia sp.) The leaves are too bitter, also the plants grow tall and out of reach of rabbits.

9) Vervains (Verbena sp.) The leaves are too bitter.

10) Native Wild Lettuce (Latuca sp. & Prenanthes sp.) The leaves are too bitter, particularly when mature.

11) Silphium sp. (Rosin Weed, Prairie Dock) The leaves are too sandpapery and coarse.

12) Rattlesnake Master (Eryngium yuccifolium) The leaves are too spiny and coarse, although rabbits may nip off the tips of leaves of young plants.

13) Wild Quinine (Parthenium integrifolium) The leaves are too bitter tasting and coarse.

14) Native Spurges (Euphorbia sp., such as Euphorbia corollata) The white latex is poisonous and highly irritating.

15) Many members of the Mint family, including Bergamots (Monarda sp.), Mountain Mints (Pycnanthemum sp.), native Hyssops (Agastache sp.), Wood Mints (Blephilia sp.), native Sages (Salvia sp.), and the like. Rabbits seems to detest the minty/oregano/anise scent of the leaves in these species. Generally, the more fragrant or bitter the leaves, the better.

16) Wild Indigos (Baptisia sp.) The leaves are poisonous.

17) Goat's Rue (Tephrosia sp.) The leaves and roots are poisonous.

18) Anemones, Thimbleweeds (Anemone sp.) The leaves contain a blistering agent.

19) Buttercups (Ranunculus sp.), many species. The leaves contain a blistering agent.

20) Native onions (Allium sp.) Rabbits seem to detest the onion scent.

21) White Snakeroot (Eupatorium rugosum) The leaves are poisonous.

22) Water Hemlock (Cicuta maculata) The leaves, and especially the roots, are very poisonous.

23) Cowbane (Oxypolis rigidior) The leaves are poisonous.

24) Wild Sages (Artemisia sp., like Artemesia ludoviciana) The leaves are too bitter and their scent is repellent.

25) Ground Cherries (Physalis sp.) The leaves contain solanum, the same poison to be found in the leaves of tomato and potato plants.

26) Sneezeweeds (Helenium sp.) The leaves are bitter and poisonous.

27) Prickly Pear (Opuntia sp.) There are too many spines, at least for the Eastern Cottontail rabbit.

28) Lupines (Lupinus sp.) The leaves are poisonous.

29 Blue Star (Amsonia sp.) The leaves are bitter and poisonous (it's related to the Dogbanes and Milkweeds).

30) Blue Flag Iris (Iris versicolor, Iris virginica)
The leaves are slightly poisonous and rather coarse. The roots are also poisonous.

Sometimes rabbits will bite off the leaves and stems of some of these plants experimentally, but will decide that they are unpalatable, and leave them lying on the ground. Mature plants are less likely to be attacked in this manner.

You can also raise tall-growing plants (Sunflowers, Joe Pye Weeds, Mallows, Goldenrods, Ironweeds, etc.), which are vulnerable to rabbits primarily during the first year (at which time they can be protected with hot pepper spray, tabasco sauce, black pepper sprinkled on leaves that have been misted, etc.), but later are too tall and coarse to be bothered much by them.

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clipped on: 03.27.2013 at 06:02 pm    last updated on: 03.27.2013 at 06:03 pm

growing carnivorous plants/sphagnum in a nutrient-rich bog?/idea

posted by: njbiology on 11.11.2011 at 12:37 am in Bog Garden Forum

Hi,

I have an idea for growing carnivorous plants and sphagnum moss in a nutrient-rich marsh - will this likely work?

On top of the mud, pile 6" of peat-moss and sand then plant the carnivorous plants and sphagnum moss. I suppose the roots will penetrate down the 6" of peat moss before hitting the nutrient rich saturated soil; then probably not extend deeper. This would be like a floating-mat is in nature: that you have a mass of slowly decaying wood at the edge of a swamp - the swamp seems to be nutrient-rich, black mud, etc... but the plants are insulated from the nutrients as they are rooted in the mass that towers over the water-level and apparently doesn't readily soak up the nutrients.

So, does this sound like it would work?

Thanks,
Steve

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clipped on: 03.19.2013 at 10:30 am    last updated on: 03.19.2013 at 10:30 am

RE: Transplanting irises (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: ken_adrian on 06.23.2011 at 11:21 am in Iris Forum

are they in absolute full sun???

of the 20 i added last spring.. half bloomed.. half didnt.. that is not uncommon for transplants of smaller pieces ....

check the link .. now is the perfect time for lifting.. moving.. dividing ... note that none of those pictured is in any shade ... fan the leaves if you do so ...

ken

Here is a link that might be useful: link

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clipped on: 03.17.2013 at 10:14 am    last updated on: 03.17.2013 at 10:15 am

RE: transplanting daffodils (Follow-Up #12)

posted by: aggiegrl on 03.01.2008 at 11:06 pm in Bulbs Forum

i am very nervous now. i didnt think that it would hurt to transplant some bulbs right now and i just transplanted several bags of "Butter and Eggs" daffs, byzantine glads, and snowflakes. i hope they are going to be alright. some i did move with the soil, but others i removed the bulbs from the soil they were in before planting. i did this to get rid of the weeds, etc that were in the clumps of soil. i acquired these bulbs from old homesites (with permission :)) and a neighbors pasture and didnt want to plant with the weeds, grass and get them in my beds. of course, i tried to be gentle with the bulbs and they seemed to have good root systems.

tracie

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clipped on: 03.17.2013 at 10:07 am    last updated on: 03.17.2013 at 10:08 am

RE: water lotus (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: frankielynn on 02.23.2013 at 09:52 pm in Ponds & Aquatic Plants Forum

I have been doing a lot of reading about planting lotus and boy is it scary. I hope they wait to send mine until closer to warm weather. I like this web site the most-- http://water-garden-blog.com/planting-your-lotus-tubers/

I hope this will help. I wish someone with experience would write in. I also found good info by searching this web area.

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clipped on: 03.17.2013 at 10:01 am    last updated on: 03.17.2013 at 10:01 am

2 pvc to weld or 1 epmd

posted by: kevin_kss on 03.10.2013 at 08:21 pm in Ponds & Aquatic Plants Forum

so I'm grappling with costs here.. I can get two clearance PVC liners that I can glue or weld together to get the size I need.. or get one EPMD liner ..

so PVC will cost me I assume $150 for the two.. then I need glue or something to mend.. or I can heat weld the two..

the EMPD which is twice the thickness I can get for $330.. so its double the cost.. but no hastle with mending two together and its thicker..

So I guess this should be a no brainer ? get the EPMD ?

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clipped on: 03.17.2013 at 06:40 am    last updated on: 03.17.2013 at 06:40 am