Clippings by Redtenchu

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RE: Hey okcdan (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: okcdan on 04.21.2007 at 01:37 pm in Organic Lawn Care Forum

OK - here's my routine:

First, let me say that I use no chemical fertilizers, herbicides or all.

Several weeks ago when we had that early warm spring weather I rented a power dethacher & went deep, making sure the tines were kickin up dirt, to try to remove as much of the top dead stuff as possible. Then I dropped my reel mower cutting height all the way down & scalped the lawn. (I did use the catcher for this & discarded all the dead thatch.) The lawn really looks like crap when you do this, but so what? Everyones lawn is still in dormancy and no one's lawn looks all that good so early in the year. At that time I applied 15lbs/1000sqft soybean meal, then a week or so later I applied 15lbs/1000sqft alfalfa pellets. I ended up mowing a few times, then we had our cold snap which completely stopped the top growth. I've finally mowed again yesterday, mowing at approx 5/8", and I applied my next application of soybean meal (@ 15lbs/1000sqft.) and while my lawn isn't completely out of dormancy yet, it looks better than most folks lawns around here.

For weeds, I only use a weedhound (and cultural practices.) It's really easy in spring when your grass is still mostly all dormant because the only things green are the weeds, so I walk around the yard for an hour or so with my weedhound & the wheelbarrow & pull em all. From that point on, it's just maintenance a few minutes a week, until the grass is completely out of dormancy & growing well. You'll find when the bermuda is real dense & growing so that you need to mow every 2nd or 3rd day that the weeds are choked out well. the trick for most folks is knowing how to get it real dense. The way to do that is with following the ABC's of cultural practices

From this point forward throughout the growing season until fall:

A) I water twice a month, very deeply (irrigate 1 to 1-1/2") if we don't get any help from mother nature. (When mother nature's helpin, I don't get out the sprinklers.) Watering very infrequently keeps shallow rooted weeds from taking hold or being a problem.

B) I mow frequently. I cut it short (5/8") and I mow so that I'm not removing more than 1/3 of the grass blade, once it starts gettin hot & if we have some rain, that could be every 2 days, but usually it's every 3rd day. I don't bag (or catch) my clippings, I don't use the catcher that came with my reel mower, I just let the clippings return right to the lawn. Mowing this frequently is what helps the bermuda thrive & makes the weeds virtually non-existant.

C) I fertilize with soybean meal once a month.

I know it sounds pretty simple, but I learned it all right here in the GardenWeb forums and when ya drive by my house, the lawn speaks for itself.

Randomjoe If you have bermuda & you follow good cultural practices you won't have any need for any overseeding whatsoever. Bermuda repairs itself & fills in very well. I'll show you what I'm talking about with a couple pics. Last year, I built a bed in front of my house. The previous owners just had some ugly pavers & had bricks lining both sides of the sidewalk that leads to the front door. I removed all the bricks, built the bed, then just filled in the trench that was left from removing the bricks. It didn't take very long & the bermuda just came right across & filled it in. After only 5 or 6 weeks it looked as if it was there the whole time. Unless you have issues with shade where bermuda just won't grow, your best bet in our climate is bermuda, it's much more drought tolerant than fescues are.

Check it out:

Well, I have some work to do in the garden...later!

Good Day, Dan


clipped on: 08.21.2013 at 10:12 pm    last updated on: 08.21.2013 at 10:12 pm

Texas Weed Bermuda Bible

posted by: texas-weed on 08.15.2008 at 07:02 pm in Lawn Care Forum

What follows is a generic calendar of recommended lawn care practices designed to help you care for Bermuda grass lawn. Please understand this is generic and time tables may have to be adjusted for you geographical location.

March through May

Mow when it first turns green in the spring with a reel mower if possible set at 3/4 to 1 inch, or with a rotary mower set as low as possible without scalping. You should mow before grass gets taller than 1 1/2 to 2 inches.

Practice mulch mowing, aka grass cycling, which means simply leaving grass clippings on your lawn. Grass clippings decompose quickly and can provide up to 25 percent of tire lawn's fertilizer needs. If prolonged rain or other factors prevent frequent mowing and clippings are too plentiful to leave on the lawn, they can be collected and used as mulch. Whatever you do, don't bag them! Grass clippings do not belong in landfills.


Apply 1 pound of nitrogen per thousand square feet when the grass is about 50 to 75% greened up. If possible and motivated submit a soil sample to determine nutrient and lime requirements for exact requirements. Otherwise in lieu of soil test use a complete nitrogen-phosphorus-potassium (N-P-K) turf-grade fertilizer with a 3-l-2 or 4-1-2 ratio (for example, 15-5-10 or 20-5-10). Consult your county Cooperative Extension center for details.) Apply lime if suggested.

To determine the amount of product needed to apply 1 pound of' nitrogen per thousand square feet, divide 100 by the first number in the fertilizer ratio. For example, for a 20-5-10 product, divide 100 by 20. The result is 5.0 pounds of product per thousand square feet.


Water to a soil depth of 4 to 6 inches. Probe with a screwdriver to determine moisture depth. Bermuda grass needs a weekly application of about 1 to 1 1/4 inches of water. On sandy soils it often requires more frequent watering, for example, 1/2 inch of water every third day. It may be necessary to irrigate an area for 3 to 5 hours to apply 1 inch of water. (It requires 640 gallons of water to deliver 1 inch of water per thousand square feet.) Because clay soils accept water slowly, irrigate just until runoff occurs, wait 1/2 hour until the water has been absorbed, and then continue irrigating until the desired depth or amount is obtained. Best watering frequency for conservation is determined by looking for dark bluish gray color, foot printing, wilted, folded, or curled leaves indicate that it is time to water. Proper irrigation may prevent can reduce pest problems and environmental stress later in the summer.

Weed Control

Apply pre-emergence herbicides to control crabgrass, goose grass, foxtail, etc by the time the dogwoods or forsythia are in full bloom.

Apply post-emergence herbicides in May as needed to control summer annual and perennial broadleaf weeds such as knotweed, spurge, and lespedeza. Products containing two or three broadleaf herbicides usually control several different broadleaf weeds in a lawn more effectively. Be sure the product is labeled for use on Bermuda grass.

Apply post emergence herbicides only when weeds are present, and wait until three weeks after the lawn becomes green. Be sure to follow label instructions and note temperature limitations of product if used.

Insect Control

Bermuda grass is virtually immune to insect damage except white grubs. Check for white grubs and control them if necessary.

Thatch Removal

If proper water, mowing, and fertilizing techniques are followed thatch should not normally be a problem. If needed vertically mow in May to remove the thatch (layer of un-decayed grass) after the lawn becomes green if the thatch is more than � inch thick.

June through August


Lower mower height to desired mowing height and in accordance with the variety of Bermuda grass you have. As a general rule the hybrids should be maintained between � to 1 inch, and common varieties between 1-1/2 and 2 inches. Mow frequently as not to remove more than 1/3 of leaf material while maintaining desired height. This may require mowing two to three time per week.


Apply 1 pound of nitrogen only product per thousand square feet every 4 to 6 weeks using a slow release urea product. Something like either 34-0-0 or 39-0-0.


Follow the March through May irrigation guidelines.

Weed Control

Apply post-emergence herbicides as needed to control summer annual and perennial broadleaf weeds such as knotweed, spurge, and lespedeza. Crabgrass, goose grass, dallisgrass, nutsedge, annual sedges, and sandbur can be controlled with post-emergence grass control herbicides. Two or three applications 7 to 10 days apart are required for effective control. Apply herbicides only when weeds are present and the weeds are actively growing, and when the lawn is not suffering from drought stress. Follow label directions and watch for the temperatures.

Insect Control

Follow the March through May insect control guidelines. August is the best time to control white grubs because they are small and close to the soil surface.

September through November

4 to 6 weeks before the first expected frost. Raise the mowing height 1 inch as winter approaches. This will add insulation and some freeze protection in transitional areas or areas where freezing temps are encountered during the winter.


Apply last application for the season of no more than 1/2 pound of nitrogen only per thousand square feet in September or four to six weeks before the first expected frost. Use can use a low-nitrogen, high-potassium fertilizer such as a 5-10-30, to supplement nitrogen if a balanced fertilizer was not used as the first application in the spring or a soil test indicates a deficiency.
In addition you can apply lime or sulfur if earlier soil test indicated a deficiency from earlier soil test and it was not practical to add the required amounts in spring.


Follow the March through May irrigation guidelines. Dormant Bermuda grass may need to be watered periodically when warm, windy weather prevails.

Weed Control

Apply pre-emergence in September or October, or post-emergence herbicides as needed to control winter annual and perennial broadleaf weeds such as chickweed and henbit. Pre-emergence herbicides do not control existing perennial weeds. Apply post-emergence herbicides only when weeds are present.

December through February


Dormant Bermuda grass may have to be watered periodically to prevent desiccation, especially when warm, windy weather prevails.

Weed Control

Apply broadleaf herbicides as needed to control weeds such as chickweed, henbit, and hop clover.


clipped on: 08.21.2013 at 10:11 pm    last updated on: 08.21.2013 at 10:11 pm

Uneven cut from an HRR216

posted by: Redtenchu on 08.21.2013 at 10:08 pm in Lawn Mowers Forum

I have an HRR216 that is cutting unevenly. I didn't notice this problem until I moved to an area with Hybrid Bermuda and have been cutting much lower (1-1.5inch). I am measuring 1/4 inch difference from side to side at the deck base to the pavement. I have even wear on all 4 wheels and all set on the same notch. I don't see a way to remove the wheel assembly and make an adjustment. I was wondering if anyone else has had a similar issue and what you did to resolve it? I have considered buying new wheels (no wear) for the short side to raise it up a bit?.... or adding something like tape or (??) to raise it? I'm at a loss and would like to hear suggestions or ideas.


clipped on: 08.21.2013 at 10:08 pm    last updated on: 08.21.2013 at 10:09 pm