Clippings by Ott2
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RE: Spring KAW....crepes!! ( pic heavy) (Follow-Up #2)
a2..go for it and post back...here is the recipe!!! ;)..thank you . c
Here is a link that might be useful: crepe recipe
<none>clipped on: 04.12.2013 at 06:52 pm last updated on: 04.12.2013 at 06:52 pm
A little nervous - about to pull the trigger on 36" BlueStar
I am very close to ordering my new 36" Bluestar range. I have to say after reading some reviews on here I am a bit nervous about ordering. Does anyone get their range in perfect condition? Or are there always problems of some sort?
This range was my "baby" and DH is going to expect it to work and work great and look great. If it comes damaged or broken I am never going to hear the end of it.
Also, any idea how heavy this thing is? We are doing a DIY remodel and I've whiddled the store down to a very small delivery fee if I have people on my end to unload it from the truck. So I am curious as to how many guys I will need there.
<none>clipped on: 04.10.2013 at 01:27 am last updated on: 04.10.2013 at 01:27 am
RE: Skinny pullout. What do you keep in them... (Follow-Up #11)
I have a skinny one (5" wide inside) that is only counter-height high, with a small drawer on top of it. It's under the countertop I use for baking and I have found it perfect for smallish baking supplies: Salt, baking powder and baking soda, vanilla and other extracts, larger-size jars of cinnamon and ginger, molasses, etc....all the stuff I need a tsp or tbs of when baking, right at my fingertips. The upper drawer makes it particularly easy. I keep the most used stuff in it, then the pullout has only two levels, so easy to get to everything.
<none>clipped on: 04.03.2013 at 10:10 am last updated on: 04.03.2013 at 10:10 am
RE: Recommended height between counter and bottom of upper cabine (Follow-Up #4)
This is just a general FYI for anyone considering a backsplash less than 18"...........
How this affects your kitchen....
Keep in mind that if you're using an appliance on your counter, you must be sure you have room under the base cabinets to move that appliance around easily. Don't, for example, tell yourself you're only going to use it in front of your upper cabinets so you don't need to worry about its fit. In reality, you will be moving things around on your counter while you work and most likely your appliance will be moved under the cabinets at some point. You don't want to tear your light rail off or damage it (or the cabinets).
Also remember that "standard" upper cabinets are 12" deep + 1" for the door...so they stick out 13" over your counter...leaving you only 12" or so of workspace in front of the upper cabinets...not much room to work in by itself! (If you have deeper upper cabinets...say 15", there's even less counter frontage in front of your upper cabinets...3" less, so 9".)
Another consideration is vertical work space for you and your family. If anyone in your family is tall, you want to be careful not to make the backsplash area so short that it makes the work area cramped vertically.
So, how do you determine the minimum backsplash height for your kitchen and how high to install the upper cabinets?
If you lower your upper cabinets a couple of inches, how much more can you realistically reach? The depth of one or two plates? What makes more sense is to plan your storage so that frequently used items are on the bottom shelf (or in drawers in your base cabinets) and progressively less-used items move up the wall cabinets.
Another thing that will make it easier to get into upper cabinets is to make them a little deeper...say 15". Not only will it bring things in front 3" closer to you, but those 3" add a surprising amount of extra storage...and allows you to store platters and larger dinner plates in your cabinets when 12" isn't quite deep enough.
<none>clipped on: 03.24.2013 at 02:33 pm last updated on: 03.24.2013 at 02:33 pm
Walnut cabinets are in -- need help with pull placement, please
Our walnut cabinets are in! The White Macaubas counters should be installed within 2 weeks. Then the plumber will hook up the sinks and DW and weβll have a functional again. The cabinet guys will come back after that to install the DW and wine fridge panels and take care of a few other little details, including installing my pulls, so I need to get pulls ordered ASAP.
Pictures are below - please excuse the dust and dangling wires. I love the tall glass pantry doors. We will apply a Solyx film to the glass to obscure the contents. If I didnβt need room to store cereal and soup, I would leave the glass clear and just display china and other decorative items there, lol.
I have decided to go with the Top Knobs Princetonian pulls. They are available in the following sizes: 4-9/16β, 5-13/16, 7-1/8, 9-5/8, 12-1/8, 15-13/16, 19-1/16, 27-1/2, 31-1/16, and 37-7/8.β I was able to order a few of the 27.5β and 5-13/16β pulls quickly from Amazon. The 27.5β size looks good on the 36β drawers, but too long on the 30β drawers. Iβm going to use the 19β handles on the 30β drawers, the 9-5/8β on the 18β drawers and the 7-1/8β on the 16β drawers, which leaves about 4-5β exposed at the ends of each drawer. I will probably use a 15-13/16β pull on the 24β dishwasher panel; not sure what to do about the wine fridge. I am still undecided on the size and orientation to use on the various doors.
For the drawers, I originally planned to put them 2.5β from the top edge of each drawer (which would be centered on the upper 5β high drawers), but now I am thinking that might be too far from the edge, especially if I also use horizontal pulls on the doors, since I want to be consistent with spacing. Maybe 1β or 1.25β or 1.5β from the edge would be better.
I am having a hard time deciding whether to use horizontal or vertical pulls on the doors. The north side of the island is especially tricky, since there is a false drawer front over an 18β door, then a 36β drawer over two 18β doors. I wish I had split that top drawer into two 18β drawers so I could just center the handles on both drawers and doors. If I use horizontal handles on the doors, do you think it looks better to center them on the panel, or place them next to the edge that opens? If I use vertical pulls, they will be in the 4-8β size range, as the vertical pulls that run most of the height of the doors does not feel right to me here. I almost wonder if knobs might look better on the upper doors (keeping horizontal pulls on the lower doors to match the drawers).
There are 30β wide x 10β high lift-up panels over the fridge and freezer. I have seen long pulls used on those before, so I could use the 19β pulls to match the 30β drawers, but think something smaller might look better. I wish I could just use a hidden touch latch on those, but think I will need something to pull on to lift them.
I have to get this all figured out quickly, so I would really appreciate any input.
Back wall with range & refrigeration columns (2 pairs of 14β wide upper doors):
Pantry & oven wall (waiting for steam oven install):
Sink run is hard to photograph due to sun coming in windows (2 18.5β wide upper doors):
North side of island (18β sink cabinet, then 36" top drawer over 36β double doors with pullouts):
Vertical pulls on doors:
Horizontal pulls on doors centered on panels:
Horizontal pulls on doors with pull toward edge that opens:
Modern Kitchen design by San Francisco General Contractor Bill Fry Construction - Wm. H. Fry Const. Co.
Modern Family Room design by San Francisco General Contractor Bill Fry Construction - Wm. H. Fry Const. Co.
Minimal pull tabs on uppers:
<none>clipped on: 03.21.2013 at 12:42 am last updated on: 03.21.2013 at 12:43 am
RE: Help!!! bluestar range delivered damaged! (Follow-Up #4)
In a gw thread called "Flawless Bluestar customer service", Buffolotina writes that she had good customer service from a woman named Mandy. Sayde also posted in the same thread that she had a good experience with Mandy. Here's Mandy's contact info; she's still with Bluestar.
mandy lopez 800 449 8691 ext. 2122
Hopefully she will provide you with the backing for replacement; or whatever needs to happen so that you have a working Bluestar that you're happy with and have confidence in.
<none>clipped on: 03.20.2013 at 04:49 pm last updated on: 03.20.2013 at 04:50 pm
Bold Tile, Sunlight Filled Kitchen
Many of you have seen progress pictures along the way and given us so much valuable feedback and advice. With the forum's help, we have an incredibly functional in which it is great fun to cook and entertain.
Our was built in the mid 60's and the used to be on the back side of the , facing north west (never any sun). Our architect suggested relocating the kitchen to the front of the , and came up with a very functional new plan, which included moving interior walls and adding a skylight dormer, mud room and pantry. We found a builder to perform the demolition and manage the construction. We built a temporary kitchen in our family room, moved the fridge in there with our camping gas burners on a card table, and started the long process of renovating. In the midst of this exciting and frustrating roller-coaster ride, my mom passed away. She was an amazing cook and would have loved watching the progress and seeing how everything turned out. This reveal is dedicated to her.
Cabinetry quotes for all the new areas (kitchen, island, area, bookshelves, pantry, mudroom) ranged from $35,000 to $75,000, uninstalled. Long story short: in order to economize, we went with an online Conestoga reseller (Brian Long/theCabinetJoint), who sold a ready to assemble/RTA cabinet, for around $23,000. This included many custom pieces; 18" deep uppers, custom width upper cabinets, 2 custom depth floor to ceiling bookshelves, and custom drawer widths and heights. While we've been very pleased with the quality and functionality, I wonder what the final effect would have been with different cabinets and/or a different cabinet style. DH and I assembled the cabinets ourselves and our builder's crew hung them. DH installed all the appliances (several, multiple times), built a steel bar support system for the island, and did so very much electrical, plumbing and carpentry work. He is one in a million.
As you look at these pictures, I would welcome finishing suggestions. What did we, as DIY-ers, miss or mangle? What stands out as unfinished to your eye and what could I add to a punchlist for a finish carpenter or DH and me? I won't be offended, but to be totally honest, I am not posting any of the bad pictures :)
When it came time to pick a backsplash, I found I had too much white and disliked how the upper run of cabinets looked. With a ton of help from the forum, I picked a bold tile which draws the eye away from the cabinets. (Special thanks to Hollysprings for reminding me that I liked a lot of contrast in my inspiration pictures and to onedogedie, for introducing me to kj patterson).
We learned we could replace a structural post which would have been out in the middle, with an LBL beam. (Huge thanks to jeff_from_oakville, live_wire_oak, remodelfla, sjmitch, karen_belle and bmorepanic).
Bookshelves flanking the desk - houseful, you gave me the idea of using 2 of these, to balance the desk area, and I love how this works. Nothing warms a room like books! We also keep the phone and answering machine here.
Cabinets: Conestoga RTA Cabinets and Doors, Crystal White, Door CRP-10875, Cordovan stain on island.
Wall paint: BM Aura Vancouver Day
Tile: kj patterson, Fireclay Debris
This post was edited by oldbat2be on Sun, Dec 30, 12 at 12:43
<none>clipped on: 03.17.2013 at 03:08 pm last updated on: 03.17.2013 at 03:14 pm