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RE: Clearance needed to accomodate stool seating at peninsula? (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: bmorepanic on 08.31.2008 at 10:55 am in Kitchens Forum

And about 54"-60" if there are working counters and cabinets or appliances behind the seated diner and you'd like to be able to use them.

Please note that the standard for "clearance behind" is from the COUNTER edge. So it starts at the outside edge of the counter overhang, not at the edge of the cabinets or knee wall.

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clipped on: 05.27.2013 at 12:03 pm    last updated on: 05.27.2013 at 12:05 pm

RE: Clearance needed to accomodate stool seating at peninsula? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: buehl on 08.31.2008 at 10:43 am in Kitchens Forum

Are you talking about what is the minimum overhang needed for seating at a counter?
.....18" for table height (30" high surface)
.....15" for counter height (36" high surface)
.....12" for bar height (42" high surface)
http://www.nkba.org/guidelines/kitchen_9.aspx

Are you talking about amount of space needed for each seat in length of peninsula?
.....24" per seat
http://www.nkba.org/guidelines/kitchen_9.aspx

Are you talking about amount of clearance needed to allow someone to walk behind the stools (i.e., b/w counter edge & wall or other other obstruction behind the seating area)?
.....32" if no traffic passes behind a seated diner
.....36" to allow traffic to edge past seated diner
.....44" to allow traffic to walk past seated diner
http://www.nkba.org/guidelines/kitchen_8.aspx

Here is a link that might be useful: NKBA Kitchen Planning Guidelines with Access Standards

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clipped on: 05.27.2013 at 12:01 pm    last updated on: 05.27.2013 at 12:05 pm

RE: Wolf steam oven yah or nay? (Follow-Up #50)

posted by: aperson1961 on 02.05.2013 at 02:46 pm in Appliances Forum

I went to a few high end appliance shops in Scottsdale to look at various steam ovens after doing some research online. I had learned about the Sharp Steam-Microwave-Convection oven while doing my research. What I found out is that 2 employees at one shop and one employee at another shop had the Sharp; they all loved it. After hearing that, I just couldn't justify spending that much money when I could buy the Sharp for $549 on Amazon (it is black, but it has a stainless steal handle and you can buy a built in kit). That's what I ended up with and I'm happy with it.

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clipped on: 03.11.2013 at 09:42 pm    last updated on: 03.11.2013 at 09:42 pm

RE: Range Hood Hell - Please help! (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: kaseki on 08.26.2012 at 10:36 am in Appliances Forum

Unfortunately, for air flow rates lower than 5 digits the hood doesn't actually suck up the cooking effluent. The effluent rises on its own at a fairly rapid rate (3 ft/s) and expands. The part of it that impinges on the hood aperture will be captured and with enough flow rate, contained. This is why size is important in range hoods -- to overlap the rising and expanding cooking plume. Note that this overlap is relative to the size of the pan or griddle, and not in particular the overall range size. Assume a nominal 22.5-degree half angle for plume expansion (angle varies somewhat with a lot of parameters). And it is the internal aperture of the hood that matters for capture, not the external size.

When cabinets or side shields are in use, the hood need not be longer than the range, but without them the 42-inch recommendation should be heeded.

27 deep is probably essential for normal hood heights.

Turbulence from cross drafts and people moving about can cause effluent to miss the aperture even when all design rules are met.

For least noise, as Clinresga and other have documented, a remote blower with in-line sound suppressor (muffler) is the best approach. This approach will attenuate the blade tip noise and much of the upstream duct turbulence noise. Air flow turbulence noise around the baffles, however, is not avoidable. (After all, the baffles work by reversing air direction so the larger part of the grease particle size spectrum impinges on the baffles.

I have a Wolf/Broan 1500 cfm roof blower with Fantech in-line sound suppressor. At full power the sound is certainly present and marginally obtrusive, but normal conversation across the peninsula and along the peninsula is not degraded.

kas

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clipped on: 03.05.2013 at 03:20 pm    last updated on: 03.05.2013 at 03:20 pm

RE: kitchen vent make-up air advice needed please (cross post) (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: whallyden on 11.07.2012 at 11:52 am in Building a Home Forum

I used the kit linked below. We installed the inlet underneath the range. With this configuration the unconditioned air is nearly a non-issue.

MUA

@Worthy -- where did you install the blower. We have no audible motor sound in the kitchen from our attic mounted 1300 cfm blower (only the sound of air rushing over the baffles).

My inspiration: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NsSvMB9bJeE

Here is a link that might be useful: EuroStoves MUA kit

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clipped on: 03.05.2013 at 03:12 pm    last updated on: 03.05.2013 at 03:13 pm

kitchen vent make-up air advice needed please (cross post)

posted by: threeapples on 11.06.2012 at 08:48 pm in Building a Home Forum

we have three furnaces and three air conditioners and a 1200 cfm vent-a-hood in the kitchen. our kitchen designer is smartly suggesting we look into obtaining make-up air for when we turn the hood on high. the hvac guy says we need to spend $10,000 for a 4th unit just for this make-up air. we cannot afford another unit at this price, but are unsure what other options we have for this. opening the window is a possibility, but i don't want to forget to do that and have an issue. thanks

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clipped on: 03.05.2013 at 03:11 pm    last updated on: 03.05.2013 at 03:11 pm

LED recessed cans guide for kitchen ...

posted by: davidtay on 01.30.2012 at 01:27 am in Lighting Forum

A collection of tips/ answers
Since kitchens have higher lighting requirements, I like to use 35 lumen per sq ft as a rule to compute the number of lights. If there are additional sources of light that will be used, the output (lumens not watts) from those sources can be deducted from the total.

Placement/ layout
1. Cans should be > 24 to 30 inches from the wall (on center). Most countertop spaces have upper cabinets (typically ~ 12" deep) + crown molding. The edge of the can may be spaced ~ 12" away from the edge of the crown molding (if present or cabinet if there is no crown molding) making the average distance between 26 to 30 inches.

2. Assuming the need for a fairly uniformly lit space @ 35 lumens per sq ft, the cans may have to be spaced closer together - between 3 - 4 ft apart (if all general lighting is provided by recessed lights). A fairly regular pattern is preferable to a random layout.

3. The actual layout of cans will be impacted by the location of ceiling joists, HVAC ducting, electrical wiring, plumbing, ceiling height, fire suppression sprinklers and other obstructions above the ceiling.

Dimming
The Cree LR6 series lamps do not dim as well as the later models (CR6, ...). ELV dimmers probably work better with LR6 than incandescent dimmers since the total load of the lights may not meet the minimum load requirement for the incandescent dimmer.

Dimmers such as the Lutron Diva CL dimmers work well. The max output is 95%.

Some Choices (in order of preference) and notes
Cree CR6 or ECO-575 (Home Depot branded CR6)
ECO4-575 (Home Depot branded Cree CR4 4" recessed light)
The above are only available in 2700k light color.

Cree LR6 series - including the LE6.

The Cree CR6 and LR6 lamps will not fit into 5" housings.

The standard LR6 behaves more like a surface mount than a recessed light as the LED emitters are close to the surface and the recess is shallow. Some may not like the amount of light spillage (standard LR6).

There is a higher output version of the LR6 that has a much deeper recess.

To prevent the Cree lamps from falling out, the 3 prongs have to be fully extended and a slight clockwise twist made when push installing. The slight clockwise twist will ensure that the prongs are fully extended.

The Cree lamps are currently the best available today (2012).

Sylvania RT-6, RT-4. The lights could be easier to install than Cree lamps as they utilize the torsion spring mechanism. However, the lights do not look as pleasant as the Cree lamps.

The Cree and Sylvania lamps do outperform 26W CFLs (and incandescents) in a standard recessed can in terms of light spread and output as the standard bulb in a can solution traps a significant amount of light. The Cree and Sylvania recessed lamp solutions referenced above have all the LED elements facing outwards so that the effective light output is higher.

The CRI (Color Rendition Index) of Cree and Sylvania recessed lamps > 80.

There is no warm up time required for Cree recessed lamps, unlike CFL light bulbs.

Most recessed lighting is used with flat ceilings. Sloped ceilings would require special solutions such as the LE6 or some other form of lighting (i.e. -non recessed lighting).

Some common objections to recessed can lights stem from
1. looks and performance of traditional can lights (standard bulb in a can)
2. swiss cheese effect from too many holes.

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clipped on: 01.13.2013 at 10:31 pm    last updated on: 01.13.2013 at 10:31 pm

RE: Recessed lighting for kitchen, halogen or LED? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: davidtay on 12.03.2011 at 10:32 pm in Lighting Forum

Yes, my kitchen has all LED recessed lamps (LR6). I computed the number of lamps based on 35 lumens per sq ft with the output of each lamp discounted from 650 to 600 lumens.

Home Depot now has the 4" EcoSmart branded Cree recessed lights which are slightly more costly than the 6" EcoSmart branded Cree CR6.

If you use a CREE solution for recessed lights, the results would be great.

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clipped on: 01.13.2013 at 10:20 pm    last updated on: 01.13.2013 at 10:20 pm

RE: Lighting questions - what did you dim and is it worth it? (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: felixnot on 10.23.2012 at 07:30 pm in Kitchens Forum

Dimmers are a hedge against fear of bad lighting decisions. Rarely used, expensive to install and of all rooms, the kitchen is the worst place to have dimmers. Go with a variety of fixtures: 4" diameter down lights, led under cabinets, a light over your table or island, a general room light. Put them all on separate switches. Light the room evenly. All under cab lights on one switch, all down lights on one switch, etc.

Yes it seems like a lot. Nothing is worse than inadequate lighting in a kitchen.

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clipped on: 01.13.2013 at 10:10 pm    last updated on: 01.13.2013 at 10:10 pm

Wolf Convection Steam Oven - discussion, recipes, & questions

posted by: Jamie515 on 01.02.2013 at 10:46 am in Appliances Forum

Hi Everyone,

I am the Marketing Coordinator at the Sub-Zero Wolf Distributor in NY - I would like to use this thread to discuss the Wolf Convection Steam Oven. Any questions, concerns, issues, and experiences would be appreciated. Also - I would really appreciate if the owners out there could share any recipes or pictures they have of items they cooked or experimented with in the oven. We may even include your recipe in the new recipe guide our corporate chefs are creating.

Also � many of you have reached out to me for guides on the oven which I have been emailing so I will also use this forum to update you as new materials and recipes come out. Anyone else who is interested in the PDF�s for the Wolf Convection Steam Oven please email me an Jamie.florio@subzero.com.

And, please refer to this previous post for a lot of useful information on the oven. http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/appl/msg0502162413469.html

Thanks so much and I hope to see some great recipes and feedback about the Wolf Convection Steam Oven!

http://www.subzero-wolf.com/oven/steam-oven

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clipped on: 01.05.2013 at 11:33 pm    last updated on: 01.05.2013 at 11:33 pm

RE: Wolf steam oven yah or nay? (Follow-Up #47)

posted by: Jamie515 on 11.21.2012 at 09:55 am in Appliances Forum

Hi Sue,

Below are some cleaning instructions from the training manual. I would suggest trying the first option using a magic eraser. The descaling cycle you should run about twice a year to get rid of hard water buildup. There are also some cleaning instructions in your use and care guide on page 36. Hope this helps.

USING THE MAGIC ERASER AFTER A STEAMING CYCLE
Allow the oven to run in the steam mode for 15 minutes to loosen stuck on particles. After 15 minutes, open the
oven and dip a corner of the magic eraser into some of the residual water left in the bottom of the oven. Scrub
off and stuck particles.

OVEN CLEANING
For patina or tough cleaning use a No Fume Easy Off spray, allow to sit for 2 hours � wipe clean with a towel.
Run a Steam cycle for 15 minutes and wipe clean and residual material.

DESCALING
Descale Setting: owner can either choose either "Descale Unit" or "Time to Descale". Descale unit will begin the
descaling process outlined below. Time to descale will allow the owner to predetermine an hours of use notifying
owner when they should descale.

NOTE, USE ONLY THE DESCALER SOLUTION PROVIDE BY WOLF

Empty entire bottle of descaler into the water tank of the steam oven, undiluted. Allow the descaling mode to run.
The descaling mode will require two, rinsing cycles. During the period, the oven will ask you to empty the water
tank of its cleaning solution, and then refill it with clean water. The rinsing process, may take an additional rinse, if
this is the case, add warm water to the tank.

WATER TANK
Regular non filtered tap water is recommended for use in the Convection Steam oven. Softened water is fine for
use. If the owner has a whole home water filter system or R.O. system then Mineral Water should be used to fill
the water tank.
If refilling the water tank during cooking only refill the water tank half full.

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clipped on: 12.17.2012 at 10:32 pm    last updated on: 12.17.2012 at 10:32 pm