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Finished period kitchen - 1925 Craftsman Bungalow

posted by: tito on 12.02.2007 at 11:25 pm in Kitchens Forum

I am thrilled to finally be able to post photos of our finished kitchen. Most of the work was done last December and January, but it took until September to get around to installing the backsplash. Id have posted sooner, but about a week after the backsplash was finished, we made an offer on a new house so Ive been busy dealing with the buying/selling/moving process. Were heartbroken to be leaving our new kitchen (and our house in general), but Im planning to recreate much of it in our new house which was built in 1921.

Here are a few before pics:

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Heres what the kitchen looks like now:

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We tried to be true to the period of the house (1925 craftsman bungalow) without being rigid about it. In our effort to make the kitchen somewhat authentic, we kept the original floors, light shades, and built-in ironing board. We also chose inset cabinets and polished nickel hardware. No one would mistake it for the original kitchen, but it does feel like it belongs. We couldnt have done it without help from countless posters on this forum. Thanks for all the help.

Here are the details on the new kitchen:

Floors refinished original fir
Cabinets Brookhaven Louisburg
Cabinet latches Crown Hardware (polished nickel)
Countertops Soapstone
Backsplash Subway Ceramics
Faucet Cifial Highlands Wall-Mount (polished nickel)
Sink Rohl Fireclay single bowl
Light fixtures Original shades in new fixtures from Rejuvenation
Undercabinet lighting Pegasus xenon pucks
Paint Benjamin Moore Weston Flax


Dishwasher - Bosch Integrated 4 cycle SHV46-C13UC
Range - Bosch Integra Pro Electric Range HEI7282
Range Hood - Zephyr Hurricane
Refrigerator - Fisher & Paykel E522B


clipped on: 09.11.2012 at 04:40 pm    last updated on: 09.11.2012 at 04:40 pm

RE: pine flooring refinish (Follow-Up #57)

posted by: sombreuil_mongrel on 07.09.2009 at 08:51 pm in Old House Forum

This is waterlox of southern yellow pine (ca. 1905)
4th coat waterlox, and the beadboard wall, and tile.


clipped on: 03.19.2012 at 02:21 pm    last updated on: 03.19.2012 at 02:21 pm

RE: pine flooring refinish (Follow-Up #52)

posted by: sombreuil_mongrel on 06.04.2008 at 11:23 pm in Old House Forum

I finished this brand new pine beadboard to match my century-old floor below it. It's a multi-step process but it can be done.
Pine beadboard shellacked

The first coat of stain was a very light color called "New Pine" a gel stain from Woodcraft stores. Then, a coat of garnet shellac to seal that. Then a toning/glaze coat of fruitwood stain (you may prefer early american) again in a gel stain, carefully wiped off to get just a hint of color. Finally two more coats of garnet shellac. You can't tell that it's new pine from Home Despot.


clipped on: 03.19.2012 at 02:17 pm    last updated on: 03.19.2012 at 02:17 pm

RE: pine flooring refinish (Follow-Up #50)

posted by: circuspeanut on 05.28.2008 at 09:39 pm in Old House Forum


I bet the "dark brown gunk like wax" is, in fact, wax.

You've probably already laboriously sanded it off, but you can also get wax remover in liquid form that works nicely. Kudos on the hard work you've put in - there's nothing more rewarding than reviving a beautiful old wooden floor.

You can still find modern (and not so modern) floor wax in many varieties today, if you'd like to try it over your danish oil. You might want to invest in an electric floor buffer if you go that option.


clipped on: 03.19.2012 at 02:17 pm    last updated on: 03.19.2012 at 02:17 pm

RE: pine flooring refinish (Follow-Up #49)

posted by: later on 05.27.2008 at 01:03 pm in Old House Forum

I sanded off very poor condition, dry, partly painted and waxed pine floorboards nearly eight years ago, back to new bright yellow unfortunately - I had not used a sander before and I went over it too much. This is a heavy use area with a fire place that coal likes to fall out of. I can say that scratches do appear, but I rarely get to repair them as they seem to blend in on the next wash and/or oiling.
I filled large gaps, (lots of them as most of the tongue and groove had broken) with beading glued in and sanded off with the belt sander, I filled small gaps with wood glue, some of it fell through. I made patches for holes where pipe work or vents had been removed with new pine.
I finished it with Danish oil, I have washed it a quite a few times with wood floor cleaner (soap and water mix) I have re Danish oiled it once or twice - it has gone a rich honey colour except for the gaps that I had filled with the beading, they remain bright yellow, which gives a pin stripe effect! (I think the beading must have been ash or some other wood as the new pine patches have mellowed to the same honey colour) The stripes are not unpleasant.
I haven't had any boards splitting where I have filled gaps, though this could be due to being in a stone house were the temperature remains fairly constant).
I have some small areas that have the tendency to splinter, I think this is due to the boards being washed with water in the past and raising the grain. I have simply raised the splinter and glued it down with wood glue, sanded lightly with paper and re oiled - unnoticable after a couple of weeks.
The scorch marks from the coal end up looking like knots. Many builders have dented it and the piano loosing a caster and being dragged across the floor added to it's patina :)

I intend to do my bedroom next, it is in v.bad condition and I have patched it from all over the house where I have replaced some floors with new pine. So this room has a mixture of painted, waxed and old and new untreated wood. The main problem is the depth of new boards being about 2mm below the others, so I am opting to sand very lightly rather than putting ply packing underneath so I will end up with some boards being proud of the others, this time I have screwed the boards down as I need to be able to lift them for utilities, I will fill screw holes with wood putty later (haven't used this before).
I like dark floors really but because of the tendency to scratch that would make deep scratches stand out more and require more maintenance.
Does anyone know what the dark brown gunk like wax is on old floor boards, I think I would quite like it if it was re applied, it isn't a stain as you can remove it with the sander, although it clogs the sanding paper up terribly.


clipped on: 03.19.2012 at 02:16 pm    last updated on: 03.19.2012 at 02:16 pm

RE: pine flooring refinish (Follow-Up #41)

posted by: lorettaf on 01.08.2007 at 05:08 pm in Old House Forum

Our house was built in 1927 and has fir flooring upstairs and oak downstairs. We've had 2 rooms refinished upstairs so far. I paid to have the floors refinished as we just didn't have the time/energy/equipment. The floors had never been finished in the middle, only around the edges, so our "floor-guy" had to do a little fancy footwork to get the two areas to match...but he did a beautiful job of blending them.

As for filling in holes/cracks, etc., he only filled in the holes that had been there for previous space heaters. The other "imperfections", ie, chips and gauges, are simply the floor's "character" and would disrespect this old house. He didn't do anything to those. After all, I like old houses because of their history and character.

I like dark wood and the rest of the house's woodwork is dark, so I had him go dark on the floors. Here are some pictures:

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Second room:
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clipped on: 03.19.2012 at 01:35 pm    last updated on: 03.19.2012 at 01:35 pm

RE: pine flooring refinish (Follow-Up #35)

posted by: mightyanvil on 10.15.2006 at 08:52 am in Old House Forum

There are so many floor finishes available that it is sometimes impossible to know what they really are without looking at the ingredients.

What is commonly called "Oil-based Varnish" is about half petroleum-derived solvent (mineral spirits) and half synthetic resins (alkyd and/or polyurethane) that have been modified with vegetable and/or plant oils (sunflower, safflower, soybean, etc) that harden by cross-linking (polymerization) when exposed to oxygen in the air. Organic metal salt driers are added to catalyze cross-linking and speed curing. All contain about 45 to 50% solids. They are easily identified by the mineral spirits (petroleum distillates) listed in the ingredients.

The industry & specification names for these products are:
Solvent-based, oil-modified Alkyd varnish
Solvent-based, oil-modified Alkyd-Polyurethane varnish
Solvent-based, oil-modified Polyurethane varnish

Variations on these products are:
Moisture-cure Urethane Varnish
Swedish Finish or Acid-cure Urethane Varnish

What is commonly called "Water-based Acrylic or Polyurethane Finish" is about 2/3 water and 1/3 acrylic and/or polyurethane resins in one or two parts and (in order for polyurethane to dissolve in water) glycol ether solvents (ethylene glycol, & propylene glycol are the less toxic ones) and catalysts to promote faster and better chemical curing. Some can be identified by the California health warning on the label. (The danger is from direct skin contact with carcinogens during application)

The industry & specification names for these products are determined by the proportion of Acrylic and Polyurethane content:
Water-borne, Acrylic finish,
Water-borne, Acrylic-Polyurethane finish
Water-borne, Polyurethane-Acrylic finish
Water-borne, Polyurethane finish

The most durable and water-resistant finishes are oil or water-based Polyurethane, then oil-based Alkyd and then water-based Acrylic. Alkyd has better UV resistance. The oil-based versions have a much higher VOC (volatile organic content) than water-based which are limited in the US but some states have set a lower limit. VOC can be lowered in solvent based finishes but it requires more refining and is more expensive. The water-based polyurethanes are more difficult to apply correctly but dry faster allowing more coats to be applied in given time period making them the favorite finish of many contractors. The higher solids content of oil-based varnishes allow fewer coats than water-based finishes but they are much slower to dry and susceptible to dust. Oil-based polyurethane varnish dries a bit faster than the alkyd version. Some water-based finishes (especially acrylics) provide a more clear and less warm looking finish and are less likely to darken later.
Water-borne polyurethane can raise the grain and cause a stain from a tannin reaction to the high pH level on certain woods like white & red oak, cedar and redwood, so a sanding sealer is often a good idea.
All of the above finishes form a hard surface film and therefore must be sanded or softened chemically in order to be recoated at a later date.

Other more natural looking but less durable wood floor finish possibilities are:
Natural oils (Linseed & Tung Oil) see website link below

Here is a link that might be useful: other finishes


clipped on: 03.19.2012 at 01:17 pm    last updated on: 03.19.2012 at 01:17 pm

RE: pine flooring refinish (Follow-Up #18)

posted by: OrlandoDB on 09.13.2005 at 09:55 pm in Old House Forum

RE: pine floor refinish

I'm no expert, but when some friends of mine wanted their 3rd floor to have newly installed prefinished oak hardwood, I undertook the project. After I ripped up all the carpet underlay and 1/4 inch ply, there were some wonderful 5 inch pine t&g planks, full of paint and wax and whatever...they decided they wanted to keep the planking and return the new hardwood...I do have a lot of reno experience, but had never redone floors. There were at least 6 coats of paint, and some sort of waxy top make a long story short ...that was three years ago, and with a lot of long hours, a few dozen sanding belts, and a matte finish water based topcoat, the floors still look amazing. You say it's the second floor, don't worry too much about dents, chances are you won't be up there with shoes. Do not fill the cracks, as all have said above...bad idea. I am currently renovating my own home(1923), and we are refinishing the pine floors in the three bedrms and halls upstairs. The only thing I do have to do, is produce some "knots" to replace the half dozen that fell out, and I do have two cracks that I will repair, they are quite wide, and I will shape a long pine "sliver" to fit into the crack, glue it in, plane it close to floor height and sand away...hope it works....good luck with your pine refinishing, it's always better to reuse than replace, after all a tree is a terrible thing to waste.......


clipped on: 03.19.2012 at 01:08 pm    last updated on: 03.19.2012 at 01:08 pm

RE: pine flooring refinish (Follow-Up #13)

posted by: Housekeeping on 08.11.2005 at 12:52 pm in Old House Forum


First of all, I have to agree with Kasha Kat, and respectfully disagree with Bulldinkie. There is a *significant* difference between hard and soft wood flooring materials. Lay parlance may not note the difference, but how the various floor materials respond to finishes and wear *is* considerably different. What works for oak, is not necessarily - or even likely to be - the correct solution for soft pine. (There are some harder, or heart-wood pines, which can be quite hard, though, probably not in a house the age of yours.)

Anyway, you probably have soft pine floors, so you need to work with that.

Please carefully consider the counsel you've gotten here to not have the floor sanded back to "new wood". First of all, you can only do this so many times and then the flooring must be replaced because it becomes too thin. So avoiding it, where possible, is the best from a preservation/ conservation of the building point of view.

The second issue about going down to new wood is that you will be sanding off the patination of the older material. Now, patination may look just like grubby old wood to some people, but many of us really appreciate it, and you'd be surprised how many people pay extra to get distressed replacement flooring to achieve the look/style you're considering paying good money to have sanded off!

A light sanding to get the old finish off can do wonders, while leaving you most of the beauty of well-used floors.

Now, of course, I'm still plumping for you to consider a non-poly (or gym floor) finish and look at some of the more traditional finishes, including a variety of penetrating sealers, etc.

Unfortunately there is no Preservation Bulletin that deals only with floors, but there are several books on caring for and repairing old houses that discuss these issues. I could list some for you if that would help you do some research.

About the cracks between the boards, just leave them empty. The only housekeeping need is a good vacuum cleaner. Filling them will give you problems down the road. I have old pine floors and the cracks are nearly closed now, (NY in Aug.), but by the end of the heating season they will have opened up enough to loose a Bic pen. This is perfectly normal, regular and not a problem. I have friends who had the floor cracks filled in their house. The crack filler material has been pushed out in some areas and the edges of the boards compressed and distorted during the inevitable swell/shrink cycles. (This is a different thing from filling severe dings and old tack holes.)

Our modern eyes admire the smooth shining plane of a floor (a gym floor comes to mind). This is an appropriate flooring look for a modern building, but it's not what was there when your building was created, so trying to achieve it (and you can) is a dubious choice, to my way of thinking. It really depends on the look you're going for: if what you want is the look of an older building remodeled to a modern aesthetic, then opt for the gym floor look. However, if your building would look better to you as a carefully buffed and well-loved older home, then, please, look at other alternatives, as well.



clipped on: 03.19.2012 at 01:04 pm    last updated on: 03.19.2012 at 01:04 pm

RE: pine flooring refinish (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: Housekeeping on 08.08.2005 at 01:53 pm in Old House Forum

Your house is considerably younger than mine so it may be different, but I was wondering what you meant by "cracks"?

Between the individual boards .....? Those cracks should not be filled as doing so may result in damage as the boards expand and contract over time. Nail holes and carpet tack holes can be filled with matching filler, though the job is extremely tedious to undertake.

I don't belong to the poly finish (neither water nor solvent based) school, especially on pine. Pine is so soft that I don't think it holds up as well as with a penetrating sealer, which not being a surface treament can handle the dings and dents a pine floor gets with more grace. Plus penetrating sealers are easier to touch up and reapply in worn spots.

I would take your floor guy's claim that "oil finishes are illegal" with a grain of salt, and certainly check it before ruling it out. Floor guys like poly.

There are a wide variety of proprietay oil finishes, plus the traditional standby of pure tung oil, which is what I use on my 165 year old wide board pine (not heart) floors where I have any finish at all.

I prep a floor by cleaning it rigorously, and try to avoid sanding as that removes the beautiful patina and color of an older floor. Pine floors freshly sanded and encased in plastic (poly finishes of any kind and sheen) look about as appealing to me as plastic covers on upholstery. I don't mean to be insulting to anyone who has done this to their floors; I know it is the conventional (and popular) solution. However, many people don't realize there are other attractive and serviceable floor finishes.

The one drawback to a tung oil finish is that once you've done it, I don't believe that you can subsequently put poly down. As I understand it, oil that remains in the cracks (and to some extent in the pores of large-pored woods) will interfere with the bond of the poly, even after sanding.

Keep in mind, too, that with the age of your house for secondary rooms, the floors may never have been intended to be seen. Paint, carpet, floor cloths of oil cloth and genuine linoleum may have been the orginal coverings. Plain, pine T&G was the cheap flooring option in those days.



clipped on: 03.19.2012 at 12:59 pm    last updated on: 03.19.2012 at 12:59 pm

RE: Using Shellac or Varnish on an Old Pine Floor (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: sombreuil_mongrel on 05.21.2010 at 07:39 pm in Old House Forum

I've had great luck using Zinsser "sealcoat" shellac as a floor finish. Most importantly, it is a de-waxed shellac. Shellac that has not had the wax refined out of it is not suitable for floors, as it is much softer and very prone to water spotting as Brick mentioned. Dewaxed shellac dries very hard, coat after coat. Sealcoat is very pale and clear. If you wished to have a darker finish, I recommend a coat or two of dewaxed Garnet shellac to start, then finish up with the sealcoat (to save a ton of money as well, garnet flakes are about $22/lb.). Garnet gives a fantastic color to antique lumber.
I'd go with four coats of shellac for bedrooms, and probably six in higher-traffic areas.
Sealcoat is a 2 lb. cut, meaning there are two pounds of shellac flakes dissolved in a gallon of alcohol. Regular canned shellac like "clear" or "amber" is put up in cans as a 3 pound cut, and is hard to apply smoothly because it's so much thicker. The 3 lb shellac is slower to dry. And of course it has the wax problem.
I use a 4" wide staining brush for shellacking.


clipped on: 03.16.2012 at 12:07 am    last updated on: 03.16.2012 at 12:08 am

RE: Refinishing 100 yr old white pine floor (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: sombreuil_mongrel on 07.15.2011 at 08:13 am in Flooring Forum

That is their standard response to all floors. Maybe the rare floor finisher uses waterborne poly.
The answer depends on what kind of finish appearance you want, what expectations for wear you have, and how "historical" you may be willing to be.
The list of potential finishes, least-durable (requiring frequent maintenance, but giving a unique and more historically-authentic appearance, to hard, bulletproof plastic-y and inauthentic):
Bare floor: ages naturally, but will water spot and stain most easily. wood worn away by foot traffic, especially with a very soft wood like white pine. No color will be brought out except by passage of time and whatever dirt/patina builds up and as the wood oxidizes.

Wax finish: low protection from water and wear, must be renewed yearly or more, potential to bring out some color in the wood; colored waxes are now readily available. Will be a very authentic soft finish showing much of the natural wood color and texture. Wax does not form a film.

Oil finish: Lots of oils out there, most oil finishes do not form a film, so the wood still looks bare/natural. Colored oil finishes are possible, but may blotch a bit at first, this usually will fade when 100% dry. Water spotting still possible, and wood can still wear down. The wood's surface is still taking the wear, but it has been fortified because the oil has penetrated it. Some harder-drying oils, like 100% tung oil, Australian Timber Oil, and I think Landark, are fairly good at hardening the wood surface and are the most durable oils. Wear spots can usually be masked by the application of more oil as needed.

Shellac is called a "spirit varnish" because it forms it's protective beautifying film by the evaporation of the alcohol solvent that liquefies it. As the alcohol evaporates very quickly, shellac is a fast-drying finish. Some shellacs contain wax as an impurity. It is added as an extender, and it does help somewhat to achieve a smooth rubbed-out finish when buffed with steel wool. The wax/impurity also shortens the shelf life and lengthens the drying time, while making the finish less water-resistant. In my experience, it's the wax that makes shellac get white water spots. I only use de-waxed shellac, which can be purchased ready-mixed (Zinsser Sealcoat) or made by dissolving flakes in alcohol. I use a lot of shellac for various things, including some floors in my house (and fine furniture finishes). The formula I use for floors is to sand to at least 120, with the grain, by hand, then apply two coats of de-waxed garnet shellac (the darkest colored shellac that really brings out the beauty and gives a base color that's very pleasing on old wood/old house context) and put on 4 coats of the Sealcoat for the wear layer. Six coats of garnet to reach the same film thickness would be awfully dark IMO. Scratches in the shellac floor can be easily touched up without the need to sand the whole floor. Shellac will always bond to shellac, so there is never any problems with blistering or peeling. Because shellac has no odor after the alcohol evaporates, and you can put on 4 coats in a day, it's really great for bedrooms or people with chemical sensitivity.

Old-fashion oil varnishes are sometimes used, but the reasons poly is preferred is because it has more benefits for floors because it is harder, so people don't mess with non-poly oil varnish much at all. The only benefit would be that it could theoretically be removed by a chemical stripper so future refinishing would be possible without further sanding. Oil varnish gives a deep amber color to wood, especially your old white pine. Problems include long drying time, softness, difficulty to touch up without sanding. Easier to re-coat than poly, though, because it will stick to itself with lower risk of peeling.

Film-forming oil finishes, like Waterlox, are sometimes the most appropriate non-poly floor finish for historic floors. The huge selling point (what sold me) is the need for no future sanding. As historic flooring fabric is a finite resource, and can only take so much sanding until it is worn beyond use, eventually one must consider replacement vs. conservation. Waterlox makes the case that since it can be scuffed and recoated there is never any need to fully sand the wood, so a stable condition on the old floor can be maintained for a long time.
Waterlox is a thinner oil=based varnish made with tung oil (I can smell it!) along with other resins and solvents. It has a _very_ strong odor when being applied, as you are getting the effect of the solvent and the material all at once. You need an activated charcoal respirator made for VOC's, or you will suffer the effects. It stinks, OK? The curing time, during which the odor can be detected, will be about a month. The bad, toxic aroma is gone in a day or two. I chose Waterlox for my old kitchen floor. It has held up pretty well; it's now been almost 5 years and there are some scuffed-looking areas where the chairs sit. It's been great for spills, water, general traffic, etc. So I recommend it unless you have chemical sensitivities for aromatic organic compounds, or nut allergies (!) Tung oil is from a nut, BTW.

We then come to Polys and other hard commercial-grade floor finishes, some of which are technically difficult to apply and have severe health threats if the proper measures aren't observed while applying. I have such limited experience with any of these that I cannot comment as to any particulars, except to state that they do not have it within themselves to be touched up, and any damage to an area however small usually calls for the whole floor to be re-sanded for a total refinish, or the spot would still be visible. These finishes last an amazingly long time, requiring only cleaning maintenance, and if the floor in question were a new hard wood, it would make the most sense to use the most long-lived finish you could obtain. But in your circumstance it's probably obvious by now that I would not recommend such a finish for your historic wood floor.
Sorry this was so long, but I wanted to weigh all the characteristics within your specific context.


clipped on: 03.15.2012 at 11:55 pm    last updated on: 03.15.2012 at 11:56 pm

99% Finished Kitchen--creamy white w/soapstone

posted by: jbrodie on 03.01.2009 at 06:59 pm in Kitchens Forum

Finally! Our kitchen is finished! I never thought the day would come, and boy am I enjoying it. I owe so much to this forum. I can't tell you how much you all helped me. Thank you!!! I hope I can help others in return.

Hope I'm not putting too many pictures!





soap stone

Quick description (feel free to contact me if you have questions)
-Soapstone: Julia
-Cabinets: Custom, inset/flush shaker style with single bead (waiting to see if we get some issues resolved before I recommend the cabinet maker)
-Bookcase and desk tops: walnut
-Sharp microwave oven drawer (love it!)
-GE fridge
-Shaw 30 inch apron sink
-Wolf range top
-Thermador double ovens
-Vent-a-hood hood
-Dal tile
-potfiller: Newport Brass
-hot/cold faucet Newport Brass
-Main faucet: Mico
-Door to garage: one panel painted with chalkboard! The kids love this and it's fun to put messages to guests, each other, holiday wishes, etc.
-Pull out baskets (love these...I keep bread in one and potatoes, onions, etc. in the other)
-Wine shelf--love it!
-Bar stools from Sturbridge Yankee Workshop (love these and they were so reasonable!)
-What would I do differently? More than 12 inch overhang on seating area of island (maybe 14-16 inch). And I might skip the bead board in the backs of the bookshelfs and glass cabs.

Happy kitchen designing to all! Thank you again!


clipped on: 03.14.2012 at 02:04 pm    last updated on: 03.14.2012 at 02:04 pm

Finished Kitchen (+1 Year)- White / Marble / Mahogany / Soapstone

posted by: i_m_fletcher on 03.01.2012 at 07:31 pm in Kitchens Forum

Hi Everyone-

Some of you might recall me, I posted my almost finished kitchen about a year ago. We recently had some new photos taken when our architect hired a pro for the day for a shoot. I figured I'd pay everyone a visit and share the new photos since my old ones were incomplete. The old thread is to old to be revived, so I'll try to repost the old original post below my new one for context as well. Hope you enjoy!

As I posted in my original thread, thank you to everyone who has posted here - your amazing example kitchens as well as your willingness to answer any questions was THE source for our ideas.

Money Shot:

Kitchen Island:

Sink View:


Fridge / Pantry:

Fridge / Pantry Revealed:

Bar Area:

Pantry / Freezer:


Kitchen Design Summary:

  • Cabinets: Painted Maple built by local cabinet maker - local is a suburb southwest of Boston. Inset doors, self closing drawers. The finish is a sprayed on pre-cat lacquer that is tinted to match the BM Ivory White color.
  • Cabinet Options: Includes pull out trash drawer wtih two cans to the right of sink. "Magic Corner" pullout in corner of L perimeter cabinets. Wicker baskets underneath microwave for fruit / vegetable storage. Vertical dividers in cabinet above oven. Spice drawer insert in top left island drawer. Knife drawer insert in top drawer to the left of rangetop. Dish drawer inserts (pegboard with adjustable plate holding pegs) in island drawers. Utensil and gadget dividers in misc drawers. Specialized rack on dry good cabinet that allows for storage on dor but puts weight in cabinet carcass.

  • Colors: Walls are Ben Moore Pittsfield Buff (HC-24) and the trim and cabinets are Ben Moore Ivory White (925).
  • Countertops: 3cm Calacatta Ruggine on perimeter, 5cm Utile Mahogany (edge grain butcher block) for island, 3cm Minas soapstone for pantry. Slab backsplash on perimeter is 2cm Calacatta Ruggine and slab backsplash for pantry is 2cm Minas soapstone.
  • Hardware: Mix of Restoration Hardware including Gillmore cup pulls (4in), Gillmore Knobs, Traditional Clear Glass Knobs and Bistro Pulls (8in and 6in). All hardware is polished nickel.
  • Lighting: Pendants are RH Clemson pendants in 14" size. General recessed lights are Cree CR6 LED lights. Oversink recessed lights are Cree LR4 LED lights. Undercabinet lights are xenon dimable light bars. In cabinet lights are xenon puck lights. all lights are dimmable.
  • Floor: Rift sawn white oak stained to match existing floor (seen in family room pictures.) Floor has radient heating underneath, hence the need for rift sawn.
  • Bar Stools: Pier One Mason Bar Stool in chocolate.
  • Rangetop: Wolf 48" gas open burner with grill and griddle. Model #RT484CG
  • Ventilation: Wolf 48" Pro Range insert in custom wood enclosure. Model #462212. Fan is 1200 cfm remote blower located on far side of garage (~20 ft connected by 10" duct.) Model #801642.
  • Ovens: Wolf E series double oven - convection on top, regular on bottom. Model #DO302FSTH
  • Dishwasher: Miele Optima II mounted to the right of the sink. Model #G2472SCVi
  • Fridge: Subzero 27" Integrated Fridge only - located on sink wall next to paired wall cabinet for dry good storage behind island. Model #700TRLH.
  • Pantry Fridge: Subzero 24" Undercounter Integrated Fridge located in pantry area on wall with freezer. Model #UC24R-LH.
  • Freezer: Subzero 27" Integrated Freezer only - located in pantry area. Model #700TFIRH.
  • Wine Cooler: Subzero Integrated full length wine fridge located in pantry area. Model #427GLH.
  • Microwave: Sharp R530 countertop microwave installed in custom enclosure within island. Cubbie for microwave is ~26" x 21" high.
  • Sink/Disposal: Franke Bowl and Half - model #PRX-120. Insinkerator Evolution Excell 1hp disposal. Bar sink is Franke KBX-110-13.
  • Faucets: Main sink faucet is Rohl U.4702 in polished nickel. Bar sink faucet is Rohl U.4759 in polished nickel. Filtered water faucet is Rohl A1365 in polished nickel.
  • Misc Appliances: Air Switch is Rohl polished nickel button with Insinkerator switch. Water filter is Watts Premiere UF3 from Costco.
  • Backsplash: once installed the backsplash will be Ann Sacks Glace tiles in Ice. The tiles will be 1x6 sticks in a running bond pattern.
  • Ceiling Speakers: 10" loudspeakers from Monoprice linked into Sonos wireless home music system (this system is amazing!)

I think that's everything... let me know if I've missed a feature someone wants to know more about. Hopefully this is useful for others that like me come here seeking input on designing their own space.


clipped on: 03.14.2012 at 02:03 pm    last updated on: 03.14.2012 at 02:03 pm

Finished Kitchen creamy white, lacanche, calacatta

posted by: tearose21 on 07.13.2009 at 07:37 pm in Kitchens Forum

Posted earlier but pictures were too small. Hope this works.



clipped on: 03.14.2012 at 02:01 pm    last updated on: 03.14.2012 at 02:01 pm

A year in the making. My new kitchen w/pics

posted by: oldhouse1 on 09.11.2011 at 08:50 pm in Kitchens Forum

Our home is a simple 1840 Canadiana. We were living life quite comfortably when we drove by a home we always jokingly said we would buy if it ever went up for sale. Well, there it was, a big for sale sign in the middle of the lawn. Long story short we moved from our 4 bathroom home to one 1/3 the size with one bath that also happened to be off the kitchen. We immediately set out to design a small addition which included a kitchen. That was three years ago. With the exception of the foundation and framing, this has been a complete DIY project. After a year and a month of doing dishes in the bathroom I now have a kitchen. It doesn't have alot of bells and whistles and although we didn't necessarily want a period kitchen we did want one that suited an older home.


Ikea Tidaholm cupboards, professionally sprayed in Cloud White with alot of customization. Unfortunately, these have since been discontinued.

AEG Electrolux 36" freestanding stove. Bought for less then half price because someone bought it, used it once and returned it because they decided they wanted gas. We don't have gas and recently put in Geo Thermal heating/air conditioning. Wasn't in the budget to bring in propane. Stove was so reasonable that if we decide to do so later we can.

Liebherr 30" freestanding refrigerator. Purchased for half price because it had a dent dent in the bottom half. Bought a new door so it was good as new, until they delivered it and dented the top half. They replaced the door. Neither will be installed until house is complete (just in case).

Ikea farmhouse sink and dishwasher. I'm actually very pleased that it works as well as it does.

Perrin and Rohl Aquatine faucet in polished nickel.

Island and Jam cupboard - Special Order from Camlen Furniture in Quebec. Purchased with hand planed top in pine and may or not replace with marble. Will live with it for a while.

10" random length pine floors. All hand finished and dinged and finshed with Waterlox. This alone took us several weeks. We love the finish.

Honed Absolute Black granite. Bought the kitchen at Ikea's 20% off sale. Rather then cash back you get Ikea gift certificates. Used these and another $1300.

Faber Inca Pro hood

Light fixture- Sescolite, Burlington, Ontario

Finished kitchen, $19 thousand including all the small stuff.

I would like to thank the GW community. I found you when most decisions had already been made but early enough to make some positive changes based on the vast amount of information shared on this site. I didn't ask for much advise but I can assure you that I read everything written on the subjects that I researched on this site and then some. I do not have the incredible knowledge that so many of you do who share so willingly to those who ask but have from time to time tried to help out on the very few subjects I know a little about. I have taken much more than I have been able to give. I am grateful to have had a place that I could frequent with people who share the same desire to have a kitchen of their dreams no matter their budget. And to those who think their day will never come, keep the faith. I never thought that I would get here. After seeing so many unbelievable kitchens, big and small, elaborate and understated, new and updated thanks for looking at mine.


clipped on: 03.14.2012 at 01:57 pm    last updated on: 03.14.2012 at 01:57 pm

RE: Using inset on top and overlay (full or partial) on bottom? (Follow-Up #12)

posted by: sombreuil_mongrel on 11.23.2011 at 03:12 pm in Kitchens Forum

Mee Two.

Temp Backsplash (paint)


clipped on: 03.14.2012 at 01:42 pm    last updated on: 03.14.2012 at 01:43 pm