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Bake Day.... Cream cheese babka and sourdough...........

posted by: ann_t on 01.21.2008 at 04:56 pm in Cooking Forum

Made a Biga last night and sourdough bread this morning. And then decided that while I was at it I might as well knead up a sweet dough too. Made a round cream cheese Babka and a long one, shaped like the cream cheese danish.

Two loaves and two small baguettes.

We had one of the small baguettes with homemade turkey noodle soup for lunch.

Lots of holes.

Dessert was a slice of the Babka.

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clipped on: 10.29.2014 at 09:25 am    last updated on: 10.29.2014 at 09:25 am

RE: can I plant freesias now? (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: kaoru on 03.27.2008 at 02:21 pm in Bulbs Forum

I just potted up some freesias and used the following instructions.

Indoor Forcing

1. Fill your containers with good quality, well-drained soil. Almost any commercially available potting medium will work fine. Make sure there are adequate drainage holes; freesia must never sit in waterlogged soil or they will rot.

2. Site your containers on a sunny windowsill - the sunnier, the better. When grown indoors, freesia often don't get as much light as they'd like and so they tend to flop a bit. We recommend using support rings or stakes in all but greenhouse situations.

3. Plant your freesia 2 deep and 1 apart for the most brilliant display. The bulbs look like small, slim onions. Plant them with the pointed end facing up.

4. After planting, water freesia well, until water comes out of your container's drainage holes. Sprouts will show in a few weeks with leaves and buds following shortly thereafter.

5. When in bloom, the flowering period can be prolonged by placing the potted freesia in a cool room. Flowers may also be snipped for use in a vase. Water plants as needed to keep soil lightly moist.

6. After flowering has finished, freesia plants may be transplanted to outdoor gardens in zones 9-11. In colder areas it's difficult to coax a rebloom. Most gardeners savor the graceful blossoms and their intoxicating fragrance for a single season. Think of freesia as the horticultural equivalent of fine chocolates - while they don't ever last long enough, but they're still delicious.

Quantity tips:
For 12-15" pots - plant 15-20
For 10" pots - plant 12-14
For 8" pots - plant 9

Bit of Horticultural Geometry
Freesia flowers are zygomorphic which just means that they grow along one side of the stem, in a single plane. When you look at a flower stalk however, you'll see that the blooms are facing upwards. How does this work?

Freesias stems have the unusual habit of turning at right angles just below the bottom flower. This causes the upper portion of the stem to grow almost parallel with the ground. The flowers bloom along the top side of the stalk, which makes them lovely to look down into in a garden setting and ideal for arrangements.

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clipped on: 10.27.2014 at 11:04 am    last updated on: 10.27.2014 at 11:04 am

RE: What foods do you dehydrate? (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: grainlady on 08.30.2014 at 08:41 am in Cooking Forum

The dehydrator is my main source for preserving food these days since it's so cost effective. I teach dehydrating classes several times a year, and the trick is to learn how to safely prepare, store and use it in a timely manner.

-APPLES
Used for snacks, apple pie filling, applesauce, added to baked goods and trail mix. Get an apple peeler, slicer, corer machine ($15 at Menards) if you do a lot of apples. Once Jonathan apples are available, I dehydrate apples almost every day for 2 months. Most are plain, but I do add cinnamon/sugar to some of my sliced apples.

If you don't have an apple peeler, slicer, corer machine, at least get a cutter that cores and cuts the apple into 8 slices. You can cut each section into 3 slices with a paring knife, and this one gadget will save time.

If you are terribly frugal (like me), save your apple cores and peelings, if you remove them, and use them to make apple jelly.

Another option is to use a cutting mandolin(e) - spelled both ways) and slice the apples from the top to the bottom - whole - to make apple rings. You will have a nice "star' in the center of the slice where the seeds were. Don't bother removing any seeds that stick to the apple slices, they usually fall out during dehydrating. Occasionally I will use a toothpick and poke any remaining seeds out of a slice once they are done.

As with all foods you dehydrate, place like-sized pieces together so they dehydrate in approx. the same amount of time. Try not to mix small, med., and large pieces. The small pieces will tend to get over-dried, while the large pieces may be under-dried. When you dry bananas, for instance, place the smaller end pieces on one tray, or on one half of a tray, the larger pieces on another tray, or the other half of the tray. I have a banana slicer (check amazon.com for a couple styles) which makes quick work of slicing a banana; and as with all foods you dehydrate, having an even thickness works best. That's why a cutting mandolin is a dehydrator's best friend. You can adjust the thickness for thin slices for those zucchini chips and potatoes, but you also get slices that are the same thickness for even drying.

-CRANBERRIES (I buy them after the holidays when they drastically cut the price.) FYI - You need to drop cranberries (and blueberries) in boiling water for 30 seconds to split the skins in order to properly dehydrate them. You can also use a honey dip for the cranberries, before dehydrating, for added sweetness, but it's not necessary.

-CANDIED FRUIT (used in fruitcake)

-DRIED LEMON AND ORANGE PEEL

You don't say what brand of dehydrator you have, but if it happens to be a Nesco American Harvest, I suggest investing in some Clean-A-Screen sheets for drying sticky fruits like pears and pineapple, as well as using for small items that would fall through the regular trays.

I use the fruit leather sheets a lot for both fruit and vegetable leather. Fruit leather is a good use for less-than-perfect ripe fruit and fruit blends. They freeze well (vacuum-sealed in a bag) and have other uses besides snacks. Fruit leather can be used to make a fruit sauce (just add a little water or fruit juice and heat over low heat). Add a fruit roll up (cut into smaller pieces) to applesauce made with dried apples for a new flavor. We especially like peach or apricot applesauce. Vegetable leather (mixed vegetable, tomato or tomato sauce) can be added to soup.

LENTIL SOUP PACKETS
1/2 c. dry lentils (you can use sprouted and dried lentils)
1/4 c. dried carrots
1/4 c. dried onions
1/4 c. dried celery
2" square of tomato leather
To make soup: Add 5-cups boiling water and simmer until vegetables are tender (about 40-minutes). Season to taste.

-SWEET POTATO POWDER: Cook sweet potatoes (bake or boil - your choice) and mash (do NOT add any milk, butter or seasonings). Spread as thin as possible - I use a small offset stainless steel spatula) onto the fruit leather sheets and dehydrate until they are set enough to peel off the sheets. Place the sheet of sweet potatoes back onto the regular drying tray and finish drying until crispy dry. Allow to cool to room temperature and store in a glass canning jar with a lid. To make INSTANT mashed sweet potatoes, pulverize the sweet potatoes in a blender until it is a powder. Place the powder in a bowl and add hot water to the powder and mix until it is the consistency you want. Add butter and seasonings to taste.

-I sprout a lot of lentils and use them in all kinds of recipes. I always sprout more than I can use and I dehydrate the leftovers. Sprouting increases the nutrition and now they cook even faster. You can dehydrate all sprouts.

SPROUTED LENTIL SNACKS: I sprinkle the sprouted lentils with A seasoning mixture and a little salt (optional) and dehydrate them on the Clean-A-Screen sheets and use them for snack food. Go easy on the seasonings with nearly everything you dehydrate because the foods reduce in size when dehydrated and the seasonings intensify if you added too much. We like Mrs. Dash Salt-Free Southwest Chipotle and Mrs. Dash Salt-Free Fiesta Lime seasoning blends. We use the Southwest Chipotle on zucchini chips. For that bbq chip flavor, use McCormick Grill Mates Barbecue seasoning (a little goes a LONG way - so use a light hand when sprinkling this seasoning).

-SOAKED AND DEHYDRATED NUTS: Nuts are easier to digest, the nutrients more readily available, and they will keep longer if you first soak them in lightly-salted water 8-12 hours, then dehydrate them until they are crispy dry. (Source: "Nourishing Traditions" by Sally Fallon) I soak and dehydrate: pecans, walnuts, almonds, pumpkin seeds, and skinless raw peanuts.

If you like sugared pecans, this is a great way to make them in a dehydrator.

(source: http://savoringtoday.com/2011/01/20/sweetly-spiced-crispy-pecans/ - with my changes)

SWEETLY SPICED CRISPY PECANS
4 c. raw pecans
2 t. sea salt (added to the soaking water)
Filtered water to cover pecans + 1-2 inches more.

Mix together:
4 (I use 5) T. coconut palm sugar
1-2 t. cinnamon (I use 1 t.)

Soak pecans in a large bowl with filtered water and salt for 8-12 hours. Pour off water and allow to drain well (in a strainer/sieve), 5-10 minutes. [My variation to the recipe: Place the drained pecans back into a large bowl and add the cinnamon/sugar mixture. Mix well. The original recipe has you do it in 2 batches, which is unnecessary in my opinion.] Arrange on dehydrator trays (in a single layer). Dry at 150-degrees F for 16-18 hours, or until pecans are crisp. [Grainlady note: I start them at 145-degrees F for 1-hour, then turn the dehydrator down to 135-degrees F until crispy dry. I think 150-degrees is too hot and the pecans "bake" instead of dehydrate at that high temperature.) In order to test a pecan, allow it to completely cool before snapping it in two with your fingers to see how crispy it is, then do a taste test. (Start checking after 8-hours.)

I use these pecans for snacking, topping fruit, added to granola and baked goods.....

CHERRY-PECAN GRANOLA
Toss together: 2 c. oatmeal (old-fashioned or quick), 1 c. Sweetly Spiced Crispy Pecans (or crispy pecans - which have been soaked overnight in salted water and dehydrated).

Mix: 3 T. coconut oil (melted), 2 T. warm honey and mix it into the oat/pecan mixture and place on a parchment-lined rimmed baking sheet.

Bake in a 400-degrees oven for 10-12 minutes, or until the oats are nicely toasted, stirring once after 5-minutes. Cool to room temperature and add 1 c. dried sweet cherries. Makes approx. 4-cups.

-FROZEN VEGETABLES: When I find a great bargain on frozen vegetables, and don't have room for them in my refrigerator freezer, I'll dehydrate them. The nice thing about frozen vegetables is that they have already been through a heat process, so you don't have to steam or water blanch them. They go directly into the dehydrator.

-I absolutely love DEHYDRATED KALE!!! (or other greens) It's so easy to add to all kinds of things (meatloaf, soup, casseroles, pasta sauce, sloppy joes). Treat it like you would dried parsley.

-DEHYDRATED TOMATOES - It's amazing how many dehydrated tomatoes can go into a quart jar!!! Remove the skins using the boiling water treatment, but don't toss them in the trash or compost, you can dehydrate the skins and use them to make tomato powder. Tomato powder + water + tomato paste or tomato sauce.

Place the tomato skins in a single layer on a drying tray and dry at 125-130-degrees F. They dry quickly. Once they are crispy dry, place them in a jar with a tight-fitting lid. When you need to make tomato powder, place the dehydrated tomato skins in a coffee/spice mill to purverize into a powder. Use: 1:1 ratio with water for tomato paste and 1:2 ratio for tomato sauce (or thickness you like). DO NOT make into a powder until needed. Because there won't be any ingredients in the powder to keep it free-flowing, it will become a compact "brick" of tomato powder. You can make a quick pizza sauce with tomato powder, water, small amount of sweetener and vinegar, pinch of salt (optional) and pizza or Italian seasonings. I also add a little coconut oil or olive oil (optional).

-Dehydrated "cereal" using almond pulp from making homemade almond milk. I use a lot of "raw foods" recipes that utilize the dehydrator.

That's enough for now.... Be sure to check out the information found at the National Center for Home Food Preservation link below if you haven't already found it. There are new food safety guidelines for preparing dehydrated food you may not be familiar with.

-Grainlady

Here is a link that might be useful: NCHFP - How to Dry

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clipped on: 08.30.2014 at 09:28 am    last updated on: 08.30.2014 at 09:28 am

Taller Thalictrum

posted by: rouge21 on 08.08.2014 at 05:00 pm in Perennials Forum

It is that time of the season when these plants show their worth.

Up till now one may have carefully staked these tall but slender plants and hopefully they haven't encountered hail or extra heavy rains and wind.

Here is one of our "Splendide" in full sun as of today:

 photo splendide2014_zps1b028225.jpg

Here is another in the back which gets dappled:

 photo shadeSplendide2014_zps01f1329e.jpg

(each of the above plants are well over 8 feet in height including flowers)

and here is a "Hewitt's Double" which has grown up into a "Lilac".

 photo HewittsDouble_1_zpsf4b80ace.jpg

I would love to see pictures of your now blooming tall Thalictrum.

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clipped on: 08.19.2014 at 05:20 am    last updated on: 08.19.2014 at 05:21 am

Annie's Salsa Recipe and Notes 2012

posted by: malna on 07.21.2012 at 02:36 pm in Harvest Forum

Since it's salsa season, I thought I would post some additional notes I've made since the 2009 thread.

As far as I can tell, the NCHFP hasn't done any additional testing, so I am "assuming" this is the most current recipe and acidity requirements.

Please feel free to add any other notes - I've tried to address most of the other commonly asked questions.

Annie's Salsa Recipe

8 cups tomatoes, peeled, chopped and drained
2-1/2 cups onion, chopped
1-1/2 cups green pepper, chopped
3 - 5 jalapenos, chopped
6 cloves garlic
2 teaspoons cumin
2 teaspoons ground black pepper
1/8 cup canning salt
1/4 cup fresh cilantro, chopped
1/3 cup sugar
1 cup 5% apple cider vinegar
2 cups (16 oz.) tomato sauce
2 cups (16 oz.) tomato paste

Mix all ingredients, bring to a boil and boil for 10 minutes. Pour into hot pint jars, seal and process in a boiling water canning bath for 15 minutes.

Makes about 6 pints.

Additional Notes for Ingredients and Processing:

8 cups tomatoes, peeled, chopped and drained
*Any type or color of tomato may be used (paste, canning, beefsteak, a combination of different types, etc.) The paste types will be meatier, the canners such as Rutgers are somewhat juicier than paste types and the beefsteaks the juiciest of all.
*Some prefer, as Annie does, to remove the tomato seeds and gel sacks. Some don't remove the seeds - this is personal preference.
*Measure after peeling, chopping and draining.

2-1/2 cups onion, chopped
*Roughly a 1/4" chopped size (this is the size used in the NCHFP testing - a little larger won't matter, but try not to have the pieces larger than 1/2" maximum).

1-1/2 cups green pepper, chopped
*Roughly a 1/4" chopped size.

3 - 5 jalapenos, chopped

**Pepper Notes: Any combination of green, red, whatever color peppers is fine. 3-5 jalapenos equates to roughly 1/4 cup, so total peppers cannot exceed 1-3/4 cups. For a spicier salsa, you can decrease the sweet peppers and increase the hot peppers by the same amount. Or you can use hotter peppers (such as habaneros or serranos) but the TOTAL amount of peppers cannot exceed 1-3/4 cups.

6 cloves garlic, minced or finely diced
*Do not increase. Small differences in size of cloves should not matter.

2 teaspoons cumin
*For taste only. Can be reduced or left out entirely.

2 teaspoons ground black pepper
*For taste only. Can be reduced or left out entirely. Any dried ground pepper such as cayenne may be substituted for a portion of or all of the black pepper.

2 tablespoons (same measurement as 1/8 cup) canning salt
*For taste only. Can be reduced or left out entirely.

1/4 cup fresh cilantro, chopped
*Can be reduced or left out entirely. Do not increase. Dried cilantro or other dried herbs may be added, but not more fresh herbs (fresh herbs change the pH - dried herbs do not). Add additional fresh herbs only after you open the jar.

1/3 cup sugar
*For taste only. Can be reduced or left out entirely.

1 cup 5% apple cider vinegar
*Can use any flavor vinegar (white, cider, etc.) as long as acidity is at least 5%.
*However, you can substitute bottled lemon or lime juice in any proportions according to taste (for example, 1/3 cup vinegar, 1/3 cup lemon juice, 1/3 cup lime juice) as long as the total equals one cup.

2 cups (16 oz.) tomato sauce
*Can be reduced slightly. See "Density" notes below.

2 cups (16 oz.) tomato paste
*For texture only. Can be reduced or left out entirely.

Mix all ingredients, bring to a boil and boil for 10 minutes. Pour into hot pint jars leaving 1/2" headspace, seal and process in a boiling water canning bath for 15 minutes. Adjust for your altitude (see below).

Makes about 6-7 pints (I always seem to get 7 pints).

JAR SIZES:
You may:
Process in pint jars (either regular or wide mouth) or smaller (12 oz., 8 oz. half pints, or 4 oz. quarter pints). Process all smaller sizes at the same processing time for pints.
You may NOT:
Process in larger jars (24 oz., 32 oz. quarts or 1/2 gallon jars). Testing was done only in pint jars.

PRESSURE CANNING PROCESSING:
The recipe for pressure canning originally specified 1/3 cup vinegar and copies of that recipe are still available on the Internet. Pressure canning salsa has not been tested, therefore it is not officially recommended.

If you wish to pressure can the salsa, you must include full 1 cup of vinegar. Processing time that is currently used by some is 10 lbs. pressure for 30 minutes. Adjust for your altitude (see below).

DENSITY:
Because salsa is eaten out of the jar without heating and includes low acid vegetables such as garlic, onions and peppers, it is one of the riskier products to can at home due to two factors: the pH or acidity level (the normal cutoff point for boiling water bath vs. pressure canning is a pH of 4.6 and salsa can edge very close to that) and the density of the product.

The salsa should be thin enough for the liquid portion to thoroughly suspend the chopped vegetables so the very center of the jar heats up to the same temperature as the outer portion next to the glass during processing.

If you want it thicker, puree it AFTER you open the jar. DO NOT puree before processing - this would affect the density. Or add a thickener such as Clear Jel or cornstarch AFTER you open the jar.
DO NOT add other low acid vegetables before processing, such as corn or black beans. Only add them after you open the jar.

ALTITUDE ADJUSTMENTS:

If you live above 1000' in elevation, you need to calculate your altitude adjustments for both boiling water bath (BWB) and pressure canning (PC). As your altitude goes above 1000 feet the atmospheric pressure is reduced. This causes water to boil at temperatures lower than 212 degrees Fahrenheit.

For safety in water bath canning, you must bring the contents of your jar to at least 212 degrees Fahrenheit. To compensate for the lower boiling temperature at altitude, you must increase processing time.

For this salsa recipe, BWB times at altitudes of (per the Ball Blue Book):

Up to 1000 ft. Processing time is 15 minutes.
1001 - 3000 ft. Increase processing time an extra 5 minutes to 20 minutes total.
3001 - 6000 ft. Increase processing time an extra 10 minutes to 25 minutes total.
6001 - 8000 ft. Increase processing time an extra 15 minutes to 30 minutes total.
8001 - 10,000 ft. Increase processing time an extra 20 minutes to 35 minutes total.

Adjustments for pressure canning can be found in the Ball Blue Book or on their website.

Do make sure you know the altitude where you do your canning. People that live in Denver know they are in the Mile High City and have to make adjustments, but portions of cities like Atlanta, Pittsburgh, and Oklahoma City are all above 1000' and it may be something you're not aware of and need to be compensating for.

WHY DO I HAVE TO USE BOTTLED LEMON JUICE????

The pH scale runs from 0 (very acidic) to 14 (very alkaline).

Each increment from 0 to 14 is 10 times more acidic/alkaline (remember the "magic" number of pH 4.6 for BWB vs. pressure canning). pH testing on fresh lemons ranged from 2.20 to 3.20, so one variety of lemon or even an individual lemon grown in a different orchard might be 10 times LESS acidic than another. Bottled lemon juice, which is processed to a standard acidity, is used for testing in recipes and is also pasteurized, therefore it also will not create any further enzyme reactions in your canned goods (per the folks at ReaLemon a couple of years ago).

Note: Bottled lemon or lime juices are only called for when canning borderline pH foods (tomatoes and salsa usually). If you are making jams and jellies with high acid fruits (any fruit excluding Asian pears, bananas, mangoes, figs and melons), feel free to use fresh lemon or lime juice.

Do I personally like using bottled lemon juice? Not particularly, but when a canning procedure SPECIFICALLY CALLS FOR IT, I use it without questioning it.

A very good explanation is in this publication from North Dakota State University - "Why add lemon juice to tomatoes and salsa before canning?"

Especially note the different pH values of individual varieties of tomatoes (and there are thousands more varieties).

and for the more science oriented, this 2004 paper from the NCHFP:

Studies on safe acidification of salsa for home boiling water canning

Hope this helps :-)

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clipped on: 08.13.2014 at 04:06 am    last updated on: 08.13.2014 at 04:06 am

Lemon Drop Uses

posted by: TomT226 on 07.25.2014 at 02:24 pm in Hot Pepper Forum

I've got so many, that I've been experimenting.
Spicy Pesto:
Buzz up a cup of EVOO and a dozen Lemon Drops and keep that handy. When you make Pesto, substitute some of the EVOO you use to emulsify the mixture with some of the Lemon Drop oil. Really gives a boost and a kick.
Spicy Tzaziki Sauce. Buzz up some Lemon Drops with some fresh lemon juice and add a couple of tablespoons to your Tzaziki sauce. I make mine with yogurt, shredded cuke, fresh dill, and lemon juice. Rocks.
Lemon Drop vinaigrette: Use the lemon or the oil mixture in making vinaigrettes. A fresh tomato vinaigrette with the Lemon Drop oil is great....

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clipped on: 07.29.2014 at 06:34 am    last updated on: 07.29.2014 at 06:34 am

RE: Souvenir de la Malmaison, this is true love (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: michaelg on 09.12.2013 at 03:59 pm in Antique Roses Forum

She should be a great performer in your climate as well. Next you need to get the SdlM sports 'Mme. Cornelissen' and 'Kronprinzessin Viktoria'. They are similar plants to Malmaison but with different flower form and slightly different color. There are deeper pink relatives that are maybe not quite as good, but worth planting. I have 'Capitaine Dyel de Graville'. Also in the USA we have a version of SdlM that holds up better in cool rain--'Mystic Beauty'. 'Souvenir de St. Annes' is a semi-double version with strong spice fragrance.

This post was edited by michaelg on Thu, Sep 12, 13 at 16:01

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clipped on: 07.25.2014 at 05:29 pm    last updated on: 07.25.2014 at 05:29 pm

RE: White english rose with great blooming power like Bishops Cas (Follow-Up #12)

posted by: hoovb on 08.08.2009 at 03:04 pm in Roses Forum

'Bolero' is very good, constant bloom and good fragrance. Growth habit is on the short side.

Rosa 'Bolero'

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clipped on: 07.20.2014 at 04:26 pm    last updated on: 07.20.2014 at 04:26 pm

A White Lady

posted by: jerijen on 07.19.2014 at 04:10 pm in Antique Roses Forum

I think everyone loves the beautiful "Sweetheart Rose: -- 'Mlle. Cecile Brunner.' I wanted to grow the bush form, which blooms pretty much continuously -- but then, I ran across a plant of 'White Cecile Brunner.'

I'd looked for this white sport of 'Mlle Cecile Brunner' for a long time, and thought I'd never find one.

It's exactly the same as the original, but it blooms a creamy white, shaded buff.

I have mine in a terra cotta pot of medium size, and it really can't stay there much longer. Right now, though, it's very happy, and just coming into a big flush of bloom.

'White Cecile Brunner' isn't widely available in the U.S., but you can order it from Burlington Rose Nursery, or Rogue Valley Roses, or Greenmantle.

Trust me -- it's a great rose for our mild-climate gardens.

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clipped on: 07.20.2014 at 03:23 pm    last updated on: 07.20.2014 at 03:23 pm

Which Passion Flower To Choose?

posted by: moonwolf on 01.22.2010 at 11:03 am in Passiflora Forum

Hi everyone,

I'm new to this forum and I'm trying to decide on a passion flower to grow in a hanging basket as a houseplant (summer outdoors). I've narrowed it down to Purple Haze, Alato-caerulea, Blue Bouquet, caerulea Clear Sky and mooreana. Which of these would be best for a houseplant? The basket will be in a southern or eastern window where the sun is the strongest.

Brad AKA Moonwolf

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clipped on: 07.19.2014 at 03:18 am    last updated on: 07.19.2014 at 03:19 am

RE: I am finding animosity in regards to container gardening (Follow-Up #12)

posted by: kevin_mcl on 07.12.2010 at 02:36 pm in Container Gardening Forum

I grow quite a few roses in 20-25 liter containers and they seem happy enough.

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clipped on: 07.18.2014 at 08:58 am    last updated on: 07.18.2014 at 08:59 am

Just received Munstead Wood - Boo Hoo

posted by: andreark on 02.01.2014 at 01:14 pm in Roses Forum

I just received the MW that I ordered from DA.

When I ordered it, they neglected to say that the only plants they were shipping now were bare-roots. I guess I should have known, , , but I didn't! I put it into a left over DA 5gal pot.

Anyway, this is the first time I have ever had anything but a potted plant. I know that I'm impatient, but I never wanted to wait for them to turn into a 'real' plant. Can someone tell me how long it will be before it has leaves and blossoms?

The plant here looks as though it's sitting in the pot crooked, but this is the only way I could pot it without breaking off a couple of the very thick roots. They are thicker than my index finger.

andrea

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clipped on: 07.16.2014 at 05:57 am    last updated on: 07.16.2014 at 05:57 am

What's bloomin' with your hostas

posted by: irawon on 07.12.2014 at 05:01 pm in Hosta Forum

At least every 2 days I go to check that the critters in my yard haven't unearthed any of my hostas or exposed their roots by their digging. Sure enough, again today I found three hostas' roots exposed and a fourth completely uprooted ARGH!! Went back to the house for a trowel, watering can, and the Critter Ridder AND the camera. I forgot to take the picture. Senior moment.

I did get this picturre though. Astilbe red 'Glut' finally blooming in the vacinity of H. Ogon Tachi.

What's blooming with your hostas now?

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clipped on: 07.15.2014 at 04:59 pm    last updated on: 07.15.2014 at 05:00 pm

I am looking for a short growing rose

posted by: tropical_thought on 07.09.2014 at 01:11 am in Roses Forum

I have a small space in front, I want to place a rose, that does not grow tall, but not a miniature rose. Can someone suggest names, and hopefully it likes foggy weather, or at least is not a heat lover.

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clipped on: 07.10.2014 at 05:58 am    last updated on: 07.10.2014 at 05:58 am

RE: Any roses that do particularly well in part shade? Any Austin (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: thegardenat902 on 06.21.2014 at 11:12 pm in Roses Forum

Hi Jessica,

I am not much of an expert but I can give a little insight on one rose I have in shade. I am growing Red Moss/Henri Martin - it's an old moss rose. It has big double blooms that are pink/red depending on your location. It's doing very well in part shade and I'm in a colder zone than you.

Not sure how you feel about the older roses but it's doing very well for me so far. Hardly can tell it's new aside from it's small size.

Also - Heirloom Roses has a wonderful selection and really great searching options!

Here are all Austin's that tolerate shade for your zone!

Good luck :o)

Michaela

Here is a link that might be useful: David Austin's Shade Roses

This post was edited by thegardenat902 on Sat, Jun 21, 14 at 23:17

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clipped on: 07.09.2014 at 01:26 pm    last updated on: 07.09.2014 at 01:27 pm

Some blooms from this week

posted by: beth on 06.29.2014 at 07:05 pm in Rose Gallery Forum

Been busy moving potted roses trying to get a fenced area built for our dumb dogs. Our son and his girlfriend got a puppy who's a royal pain in the butt. I'm replacing drippers and sprinklers constantly because he rips them out, chews them up, and digs holes all over the place, and makes messes everywhere. Our dumb dog finally quit doing all that, but between the two of them, they crap in my flowerbeds and all the walkways and I'm sick of that too! I can't wait til we get it all done so I can finish cleaning the walkways and make things look nice and be less frustrating for me.

The weather is hot and we're on every-other-day water rationing. It's all I can do to keep the roses alive. When I have more time I'll get the deadheading done so there'll be more blooms. They're kinda sparce right now.

Here's a few of the best bloomers lately:

TRAVIATA (not the Romantica one)
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SUMMER NIGHTS
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STAINLESS STEEL
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SECRET
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SCARLET RIPPLE
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PHILATELIE - my favorite new rose!
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PAUL SHIRVILLE
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MT HOOD
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MILVA
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MASQUERADE
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GOLDEN JUBILEE
Image Hosting by PictureTrail.comGENTLE GIANT
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FRAGRANT PLUM
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FIRST ENTERPRISE
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And here's one of my daylilies

DESTINED TO SEE
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NOTES:

PHILATELIE I must order!
clipped on: 07.08.2014 at 06:00 am    last updated on: 07.08.2014 at 06:00 am

RE: wanting a fragrant cabbage rose for jam (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: luxrosa on 07.07.2014 at 03:42 pm in Rose Propagation Forum

I collect old roses,
'Cabbage' roses are listed under the class name Centifolia, which translates to "100 leaves" What we now call a petal was long ago called a "leaf".
hortico.com sells Centifolia Muscosa, which is the original Cabbage Rose. it has been grown since the 1700's, and probably earlier. It produces one bloom cycle each year, here it blooms in June.
This is the exquisite pink rose that is used in making jams and preserves in India, among other places. It has a distinct scent, with a high note that reminds me of an expensive rose cologne. There is no other rose like it, plus it has pretty foliage. I'd grow an entire row of them if I had room.

A re-blooming Old Garden Rose that I've grown, that has petals that taste good in jams and jellies is called:
'Rose de Rescht', a rose from the 1800's, which Richters sells. This red rose has a typical Damask rose scent, the scent one expects when one smells a modern red rose. It also dries well for potpourri.

Best wishes,
Luxrosa

NOTES:

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clipped on: 07.07.2014 at 03:53 pm    last updated on: 07.07.2014 at 03:53 pm

RE: Rhipsalis anyone? (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: wallisadi on 12.01.2012 at 07:19 am in Florida Gardening Forum

Photobucket we have quite a few varieties. most of them prefer filtered sun, lots of water in summer and are very easy to propagate.

NOTES:

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clipped on: 06.30.2014 at 04:32 am    last updated on: 06.30.2014 at 04:32 am

Lemon Spice Hybrid Tea, I'm impressed!

posted by: Sara-Ann on 06.20.2014 at 02:07 pm in Roses Forum

This is a picture of my Lemon Spice Hybrid Tea Rose, new this year, own root from Roses Unlimited. Pretty, fragrant and thornless, I love it!

NOTES:

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clipped on: 06.26.2014 at 04:53 pm    last updated on: 06.26.2014 at 04:53 pm

Missing my garden

posted by: lesmc on 01.21.2014 at 12:41 pm in Rose Gallery Forum

Snowy day here.....miss my garden and I bet you do too! Feel free to add your garden. Lesley

NOTES:

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clipped on: 06.24.2014 at 11:31 am    last updated on: 06.24.2014 at 11:31 am

On a Misty Morning

posted by: avane on 05.13.2009 at 05:44 pm in Bromeliad Forum

I took these pictures last Wednesday (May 6) morning meaning to share them with you. The fog was not too dense, so visibility was quite good. And then everything is bathed in that soft, silvery light with almost no shadows.

So, join me for a walk through my garden!!
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Japie

NOTES:

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clipped on: 06.24.2014 at 04:00 am    last updated on: 06.24.2014 at 04:00 am

Madame Wagram

posted by: labrea on 06.21.2014 at 06:19 pm in Antique Roses Forum

Considered a HT.it has nice fragrance & form. It produces clusters like a lot of Bourbons I believe someone on here told me they believed it had Bourbon heritage! I'm surprised it's not more common.



NOTES:

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clipped on: 06.23.2014 at 03:37 pm    last updated on: 06.23.2014 at 03:38 pm

Need help with potting mix for container roses.

posted by: dragoonsers on 09.26.2013 at 09:15 am in Roses Forum

Hello again,

Same old question but where I live there's no potting soil in bags anywhere. These are the ingredients I have:

Compost
Rotted Cow Manure
Sweet river sand
Garden soil (its clay-ey loam)
Coconut coir bricks
Bone meal, fish meal and blood meal

Any idea how I can use these?

Best,

H

NOTES:

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clipped on: 06.21.2014 at 02:39 pm    last updated on: 06.21.2014 at 02:39 pm

Please teach me how to grow roses in pots

posted by: vettin on 06.01.2014 at 01:33 pm in Antique Roses Forum

The roses planted in the ground are doing very well thanks to the advice that I have received here in the last few years.

I would now like to try growing roses in pots. The big caveat is that I do not have space to move them inside in the winter and I am in zone 6b. I know there are others in colder zones who successfully do this. I have likely asked this before but cannot find the thread...

Any good threads I should start with?
I have a million questions:
what size pot (guessing it depends on the size of the plant - what size plant for what size pot)
what kind of soil
how often to water
how much sun/shade
still ok to feed with seaweed
Ok if the pots are onthe concrete or on the grass or do they need to be elevated.
Do I need to put rocks at the bottom of the pot before adding soil for drainage

I am sure I missed other important questions, so any and all advice would be appreciated. Thank you!

NOTES:

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clipped on: 06.21.2014 at 02:36 pm    last updated on: 06.21.2014 at 02:36 pm

Name this purple poppy!

posted by: Ninkasi on 06.20.2014 at 01:40 pm in Name That Plant Forum

Beautiful lavender blooms. Would love to locate it! Thanks in advance!

NOTES:

Opium poppy
clipped on: 06.21.2014 at 04:25 am    last updated on: 06.21.2014 at 04:27 am

Hot pink ornamental

posted by: Ninkasi on 06.20.2014 at 01:43 pm in Name That Plant Forum

Hi, I really love this pink flower. It is on a silvery, feathery soft stem. They are quite common around here. Any clues? Thanks in advance!

NOTES:

Lychnis coronaria.
clipped on: 06.21.2014 at 04:26 am    last updated on: 06.21.2014 at 04:27 am

RE: An Orchid on Every Tree (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: epiphyte78 on 03.10.2013 at 08:24 am in California Gardening Forum

hosenemesis, epiphytes occur in habitats that range from dripping wet rain forests to near deserts. Personally, my interest is in the most drought tolerant epiphytes...especially orchids. Here's a list of some that are relatively drought tolerant...

Ansellia africana
Barkeria (all)
Brassavola (all)
Cattleya maxima
Cattleya nobilior
Cattleya walkeriana
Dendrobium canaliculatum
Dendrobium compactum
Dendrobium speciosum
Dockrillia linguiforme
Dockrillia teretifolium
Dockrillia wassellii
Encyclia (all)
Laelia (Mexican... albida, anceps, autumnalis, furfuracea, gouldiana, speciosa)
Laelia sincorana
Myrmecophila (all)
Mystacidium capense
Oncidium cebolleta
Oncidium onustum
Psychilis krugii
Rhyncholaelia digbyana
Rhyncholaelia glauca
Schomburgkia splendida v cauca
Schomburgkia superbiens
Sobennikoffia robusta

Like I mentioned, it's safer to mount these orchids without any moss and it's essential that they be very very securely attached.

Right now here in inland So Cal...many of these are just starting to put out new roots. So from now until around June is a perfect time to attach them to trees.

In terms of host suitability...most trees should be perfectly fine...with natives being the exception. I do know of several people growing Laelia anceps and other Mexican Laelias on our native oaks with no problem. But I wouldn't recommend it though. Here's a Pepper Tree covered in epiphytes.

In terms of watering frequency...during the coldest days of winter I water first thing in the morning once every 10 or so days. During the very hottest days of summer I'll try and water my Cedar tree every night.

In my desert garden area I'm establishing CAM orchids and Tillandsias on Pony Tail Palms, Madagascar Palms and Mexican Palo Verdes. I even attached an orchid to Kalanchoe beharensis and one on a giant Echeveria gibbiflora. Because these are all drought tolerant epiphytes...I stop watering around September and don't start until around May/June.

The first year you attach orchids you'll want to water somewhat more frequently until they establish a good root system on the bark...perhaps 3-4 times per week at night. Once they are established...then they can be watered around twice a week at night during the hottest days.

Here are a few photos that might be of interest...

Oncidium/Zelenkoa onustum growing on a cactus (additional photos)
Orchid growing on Euphorbia
Psychilis krugii growing on a cactus

Here's a photo of a Mexican Laelia growing on a Yucca...

Laelia autumnalis on Yucca

It's a perfect example of a good root system. Unlike Tillandsias, epiphytic orchids are all about the roots. You can see, however, that the base of the Yucca has rotted out. It didn't really seem to phase the Yucca though as it's still growing quite vigorously. The photo was taken at the Santa Barbara Orchid Estate which is a stone's throw away from the ocean.

Here are some epiphytes on a Pony Tail Palm in a private garden here in LA...

Tillandsias, Encyclias on Beaucarnea recurvata

For some additional info...here's a thread I posted about CAM orchids.

Suzi, honestly I have no idea what my PSI is. My water pressure is decent...it's not a fire hose but nor is it a trickle. Basically I just attach the hose to 1/2" polytube which runs to the base of the tree...where it attaches to 1/4" polytube that runs up the tree. There are probably around 20 drip emitters at various strategic locations on the tree.

NOTES:

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clipped on: 06.11.2014 at 08:29 am    last updated on: 06.11.2014 at 08:29 am

An Orchid on Every Tree

posted by: epiphyte78 on 03.08.2013 at 05:55 am in California Gardening Forum

When I drive around Los Angeles I see way too many naked trees. Naked trees should be the exception, rather than the rule. So let's get puritanical!

Adorning your trees with epiphytes and other plants is pretty much the funnest thing. It's kinda like attaching ornaments to a Christmas Tree...but 100x more awesome. That's because the ornaments are living and far more fascinating than ordinary ornaments.

Here are a few photos of my Cedar Tree...

Begonia boliviensis growing Epiphytically

Kalanchoe uniflora Growing Epiphytically

How many different plants can you grow on your trees? Perhaps it would be easier to list the plants that you can't grow epiphytically. So far I haven't had much success with Sanseverias. And the common parlor palm (Chamaedorea elegans) didn't make it either...probably because I let it go too long without water. There are probably a couple other plants that you can't grow on a tree.

If you want to make watering super easy...you just run a quarter inch polytube drip line up your tree...

Cattleya Penny Kuroda 2

Many orchids and most Tillandsias can be attached directly to the tree. In fact, with CAM orchids it's safer not to include any medium when you attach them to the tree. That way you'll decrease the chance of rot during the winter.

The important thing to remember when attaching an orchid to a tree is that the orchid must be very very tightly attached. I use a slip knot method to ensure that I don't lose any tension when tying the knot. If it's not securely attached then the new roots will break off if it has any room to wiggle.

Most other plants though will require some sort of medium...moss being the most common. For more information check out this thread I posted on mounting mediums.

Vertical landscaping isn't without its challenges though...

Raccoon With Epiphytes 2

....but the rewards far exceed the drawbacks...especially if you've run out of horizontal space. Even if you don't have space for a full sized tree...you can still attach dozens of miniature epiphytes to bonsai trees...

Crassula Bonsai With Orchids 3a

Let me know if you have any questions or complaints. If you've already adorned some of your trees...I'd certainly love to see your photos. For additional inspiration...here's a group I created on flickr for orchids on trees.

NOTES:

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clipped on: 06.11.2014 at 08:26 am    last updated on: 06.11.2014 at 08:26 am

RE: how big should the pot be? (Follow-Up #13)

posted by: tapla on 06.03.2014 at 08:58 pm in House Plants Forum

Roksee - Potting up, instead of repotting, ensures your plant has no chance to ever grow to its potential. Instead of potting up, learn how to properly maintain your scheff's root system. Repotting (for scheffs) includes a complete change of soil (hopefully to one that allows you to water correctly) and removal of larger useless roots as well as potentially problematic roots. A well-maintained root system will be 90% fine roots and 10% heavy roots, all radiating from the basal flair.

These are some things I wrote about pot size and repotting vs potting up - in case you're interested.

Choosing an Appropriate Size Container

How large a container ‘can’ or ‘should’ be, depends on the relationship between the mass of the plant material you are working with and your choice of soil. We often concern ourselves with "over-potting" (using a container that is too large), but "over-potting" is a term that arises from a lack of a basic understanding about the relationship we will look at, which logically determines appropriate container size.

It's often parroted that you should only move up one container size when "potting-up". The reasoning is, that when potting up to a container more than one size larger, the soil will remain wet too long and cause root rot issues, but it is the size/mass of the plant material you are working with, and the physical properties of the soil you choose that determines both the upper & lower limits of appropriate container size - not a formulaic upward progression of container sizes. In many cases, after root pruning a plant, it may even be appropriate to step down a container size or two, but as you will see, that also depends on the physical properties of the soil you choose. It's not uncommon for me, after a repot/root-pruning to pot in containers as small as 1/5 the size as that which the plant had been growing in prior to the work.

Plants grown in ‘slow’ (slow-draining/water-retentive) soils need to be grown in containers with smaller soil volumes so that the plant can use water quickly, allowing air to return to the soil before root issues beyond impaired root function/metabolism become a limiting factor. We know that the anaerobic (airless) conditions that accompany soggy soils quickly kill fine roots and impair root function/metabolism. We also know smaller soil volumes and the root constriction that accompany them cause plants to both extend branches and gain o/a mass much more slowly - a bane if rapid growth is the goal - a boon if growth restriction and a compact plant are what you have your sights set on.

Conversely, rampant growth can be had by growing in very large containers and in very fast soils where frequent watering and fertilizing is required - so it's not that plants rebel at being potted into very large containers per se, but rather, they rebel at being potted into very large containers with a soil that is too slow and water-retentive. This is a key point.

We know that there is an inverse relationship between soil particle size and the height of the perched water table (PWT) in containers. As particle size increases, the height of the PWT decreases, until at about a particle size of just under 1/8 inch, soils will no longer hold perched water. If there is no perched water, the soil is ALWAYS well aerated, even when the soil is at container capacity (fully saturated).

So, if you aim for a soil (like the gritty mix) composed primarily of particles larger than 1/16", there is no upper limit to container size, other than what you can practically manage. The lower size limit will be determined by the soil volume's ability to allow room for roots to ’run’ and to furnish water enough to sustain the plant between irrigations. Bearing heavily on this ability is the ratio of fine roots to coarse roots. It takes a minimum amount of fine rootage to support the canopy under high water demand. If the container is full of large roots, there may not be room for a sufficient volume of the fine roots that do all the water/nutrient delivery work and the coarse roots, too. You can grow a very large plant in a very small container if the roots have been well managed and the lion's share of the rootage is fine. You can also grow very small plants, even seedlings, in very large containers if the soil is fast (free-draining and well-aerated) enough that the soil holds no, or very little perched water.

I have just offered clear illustration why the oft repeated advice to ‘resist pottting up more than one pot size at a time’, only applies when using heavy, water-retentive soils. Those using well-aerated soils are not bound by the same restrictions. As the ht and volume of the perched water table are reduced, the potential for negative effects associated with over-potting are diminished in a direct relationship with the reduction - up to the point at which the soil holds no (or an insignificant amount) of perched water and over-potting pretty much becomes a non-issue.

******************************************************************

Repotting vs Potting Up

I often explain the effects of repotting vs potting up like this:

Let's rate growth/vitality potential on a scale of 1-10, with 10 being the best. We're going to say that trees in containers can only achieve a 9. Lets also imagine that for every year a tree goes w/o repotting or potting up, its measure of growth/vitality slips by 1 number, That is to say you pot a tree and the first year it grows at a level of 9, the next year, an 8, the next year a 7. Lets also imagine we're going to go 3 years between repotting or potting up.

Here's what happens to the tree you repot/root prune:

year 1: 9
year 2: 8
year 3: 7
repot
year 1: 9
year 2: 8
year 3: 7
repot
year 1: 9
year 2: 8
year 3: 7

You can see that a full repotting and root pruning returns the plant to its full potential within the limits of other cultural influences for as long as you care to repot/root prune.

Looking now at how woody plants respond to only potting up:
year 1: 9
year 2: 8
year 3: 7
pot up
year 1: 8
year 2: 7
year 3: 6
pot up
year 1: 7
year 2: 6
year 3: 5
pot up
year 1: 6
year 2: 5
year 3: 4
pot up
year 1: 5
year 2: 4
year 3: 3
pot up
year 1: 4
year 2: 3
year 3: 2
pot up
year 1: 3
year 2: 2
year 3: 1

This is a fairly accurate illustration of the influence tight roots have on a woody plant's growth/vitality. You might think of it for a moment in the context of the longevity of bonsai trees vs the life expectancy of most trees grown as houseplants, the difference between 4 years and 400 years lying primarily in how the roots are treated.

Al

NOTES:

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clipped on: 06.09.2014 at 04:07 pm    last updated on: 06.09.2014 at 04:07 pm

RE: Bouquets of no-spray roses (Follow-Up #57)

posted by: Strawberryhill on 05.30.2014 at 10:45 am in Organic Rose Growing Forum

This thread has so many pics. that Seaweed has a hard time loading from her old lap top. But I can post her pics. fast with my new PC, below is a bouquet from Seaweed's garden.

Top, Sweetness (2) Oklahoma, Fragrant Cloud. 2nd row, William Shakespeare, Memorial Day, Libeszauber (big, center), Blue Moon (lighter shade of lavender), Rock & Roll (very fragrant)

3rd row, George Burns (more yellow hue parent to Rock & Roll), Sweetness and Lasting Love (tree rose).

NOTES:

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clipped on: 06.08.2014 at 01:42 pm    last updated on: 06.08.2014 at 01:42 pm

The pot garden

posted by: seil on 05.31.2014 at 04:44 pm in Roses Forum

I managed to get all the new ones I have potted up now. I went from about 76 pots down to 37. So about half the number I had. There's still a few coming and a few more I'm going to get but I'm trying to keep it under 50 pots. 76 was just a bit too many, lol!

NOTES:

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clipped on: 06.06.2014 at 12:28 pm    last updated on: 06.06.2014 at 12:28 pm

RE: New to mini roses...need help with container (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: majenta on 02.06.2010 at 02:41 pm in Miniature Roses Forum

Karen, since nobody has answered you yet, I will tell you what I do with my miniatures. Just to let you know I'm not an authority on the subject, as I'm quite sure there are lots of opinions and ways to grow them in containers.

When I purchase a miniature rose it is usually in a 3-4 inch pot which will dry out very quickly so the first thing I do is to pot it up into a one gallon container ( I have lots of these from purchasing other plants) and leave it in the one gallon pot until it has a really good root system. It's easy to tell how much root there is by checking the holes in the bottom of the pot. Once I feel the roots have filled (or almost) the pot, I then plant it up again into a larger container-probably at least double the size. I like a large display in my pots and since my climate is such that we have a shorter growing season, I mostly put three to a large container. The miniatures seem to like the company and so far mine have done very well for me.

When I pot the rose I put about one-third good potting mix (pro-mix is my favourite) and add a handful of my own organic mix ( alfalfa, kelp meal, bone meal, blood meal etc) and then top up the pot with more good potting mix. I then plant the miniature using about one tablespoon bonemeal - super phosphate would do as well. I water the new planting in very well to make sure the potting mix comes into close contact with the roots, and just watch and water as necessary for at least 2-3 weeks. I really like a slow release fertilizer on my pots as I truly believe otherwise it's feast or famine. Since the pots need a lot of water, fertilizer is leached through quite quickly. Once the roots find the nice little meal of organics, they seem to jump out of the pot. I like to pamper my mini's and throughout the growing season, I treat them to a liquid fertilizer ( fish is good or 20-20-20 ) occasionally, and if the leaves are looking a little pale in colour I will treat them to a little iron chelate. I also mulch the top of the pots to help keep them from drying out.

If you find the pots dry out too quickly, a neat trick is to use a double pot - a smaller pot inside a larger one with peat or something else between the pots to act as insulation. I think when growing plants in containers, the secret is to never let them dry out. You may not kill the rose, but it will pout for a long time.

I hope this helps.

Pot Ghetto

NOTES:

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clipped on: 06.06.2014 at 11:32 am    last updated on: 06.06.2014 at 11:33 am

RE: how to transfer miniture roses outside? (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: george_mander on 06.03.2006 at 05:21 pm in Miniature Roses Forum

I have just written this for our local RS.
NOTE : The text may be edited and shortened a bit and it's not final. It will be on my web-site after it's edited.

Tips for planting and growing Miniature Roses

# 1 : When buying NEW minis, which come out of the greenhouse. "Do not" expose them to direct sunlight right away as you may burn the foliage.
Keep in the shade for at least a week and then gradually give them 2 to 3 hrs of sun a day for a week to 10 days. Then you can put them in "FULL" sun.

# 2 : Planting. (Canada and northern States)
When you buy a new mini in a 3 to 4 inch pot, do not plant them into the ground right away !!! If those small pots are full of new roots, I cut appr. 1/4 inch off the bottom of the root ball with a steak knife. This way new fine hair roots will develop really fast.

I first transplant mine into one gallon pots. After 3 to 4 months the one gall. pot may have roots right down to the bottom. If roots go around in circles it�s time to plant into 2 gall. pots. Again, I cut about 1/2 inch off the bottom with a large steak knife. From the 1 gall. one could plant them into the ground, but I prefer to leave them in the 2 gallon pots for the first season.

Years ago I did some experiments with my own minis and those I grew on in pots were 2 to 3 times larger after one season compared to those which were planted right into the ground.
Up north the ground never warms up until late May compared to the pots where the soil warms up fast with just a few hrs. of sun a day.
In the southern & hot US states it will be OK to plant right into the ground, but after you had them in the shade for a week to 10 days.

# 3 : Fertilizing. "DO NOT" use chemical fertilizer for potted roses !!!
My friend and I have both killed a number of minis in one and two gallon pots, using the fertilizer we use in the rose beds. Too much nitrogen will damage or kill the roots and the plants may die.
Use slow release Osmocote or even better, use the organic mix which a friend and I have been making for years. You can not over fertilize (kill the roots) with our organic mix.
We have been using this organic mix for the last 6 to 7 years with outstanding results. The foliage, health and vigour of our minis in pots is exceptional as our rose show results prove.
Water soluble fertilizer can also be used. If it calls for a teaspoon for 4 liters or 1 gall. of water use a level spoon, but "NEVER" a heaped one. As this is also a chemical, use a bit less as too much may damage the roots but may not kill the plant. Again I am speaking of my own experience.

# 4 : Needless to say, water, water, water !!!
Never lets your pots dry out as they have to watered more often than roses in the ground.


Here is a link that might be useful: Roses of Excellence

NOTES:

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clipped on: 06.06.2014 at 11:24 am    last updated on: 06.06.2014 at 11:24 am

RE: 2014 Rose Season begins... (Follow-Up #18)

posted by: AquaEyes on 05.28.2014 at 03:08 pm in Antique Roses Forum

Today a few more roses each opened their first flower of the year.


"Sophie's Perpetual"

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'Botzaris'

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'Yolande d'Aragon' -- not quite open, but already generous with perfume.

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'Louis Philippe' (I hope...I'm still waiting for the fully-double flowers to appear to confirm I got the right rose, but this one already has more than the few from last year)

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Pegged cane of 'Blanc de Vibert' has lots of buds...

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...but it seems the first flower of the year on this rose will come from a new shoot at the base.

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The last of three buds on Kim Rupert's 'DLFED 3' -- before I clipped the anthers to freeze the pollen. I want it to "meet up" with 'Quatre Saisons Blanc Mousseaux' which, as of now, has no open flowers. I keep 'DLFED 3' and 'R. fedtschenkoana' in pots on pavement to prevent them from spreading through the garrden.

 photo 10262190_10152137260692285_6488120169365138421_n.jpg


The first flower of the year on 'Nouveau Monde' opened today, and just behind it in this pic you can see one of the many buds on the clematis 'Countess of Lovelace'. I have this clematis using 'Nouveau Monde' as its trellis, and together they'll eventually spread across the back deck railing.

First open flower on 'Nouveau Monde' which is trained along the center of the back deck railing, with the clematis 'Countess of Lovelace' climbing through it -- and also about to bloom. photo 10422965_10152137428912285_2608620952180564075_n.jpg


'Nigrette' was the first of my pot-pet red HTs to open. These two shots are of its third flower -- I snipped the other two for two friends from work. And as is usually the case, my iPhone can't capture the dark purplish reds very well -- it makes them look too fiery.

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'Clotilde Soupert' is still slowly unfurling its first flowers. Yesterday:

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And today -- "Look, Mom...no balling!":

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So that's about it for the onesies and twosies. But a few have what I'd call their first flushes of the year.

OK, so not much of a "flush" on 'Reine des Violettes', but considering its small size, it's not too shabby. I just tied it up yesterday, so it looks awkward today. It was spayed out forward, leaves facing up, so now things aren't really facing the "new up".

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But the flowers are looking -- and smelling -- great. Believe it or not, my iPhone captured some of the violet-blue tones -- but it still looks pinker in these pics than in real life.

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Yes, it's actually less-pink than this in real life. It didn't bloom last year, so this is our first "introduction."

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'Rose du Roi -- original' is continuing its awkward-adolescent flush. I tried gently propping up its canes a little -- just enough to keep the flowers out of the mulch.

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'Rose du Roi -- original' up-close. One of these days I'll have to get a proper camera that doesn't have "issues" with shades of red. The color isn't totally off, but does appear lighter, more muddied, and lacking in definition as compared to real-life.

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"Rose de Rescht" gave itself a skirt this year.

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"Rose de Rescht" up-close. Again, my iPhone camera muddies up the color, but you get the idea.

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'Souvenir du Dr. Jamain' had a few baby flowers last year soon after it arrived as a band. They were nothing compared to what it produced in its second year -- these have more perfume, more velvety tones, and larger size. Unfortunately, my iPhone (again) makes these dark purplish reds look too fiery. I'm hoping for more canes to shoot up from the ground so I can keep training it along the railing on my front porch. Oh, and ignore the boxes in the background -- I'm saving the cardboard for another project.

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'Marie Pavie' continues her flush in the front yard. While the scent up-close doesn't seem strong, it certainly carries on the air some distance away from the plant. Blooms start palest pink then open to virtually white.

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And that's all I've got for today...but more will be coming soon.

:-)

~Christopher

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clipped on: 06.04.2014 at 04:13 pm    last updated on: 06.04.2014 at 04:13 pm

RE: Convention photos (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: Anon-Cdn on 05.31.2014 at 08:48 pm in African Violets Forum

As far as I understand it, for multiple photos this sight requires you to up load them first to a website/host server like picasa, photobucket, flicker, possibly even a cloud account, etc.. Then place a "tag" of them in the post.

should look like i.e.

< img src="http://www.hostserver.com/page/img.jpg" >

I know photobucket accounts give you a ready made tag just copy and paste kinda thing and last time i checked there is a free version with 2 GB of space for uploads

that is the best I can help, others may be of more benefit

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clipped on: 06.04.2014 at 09:33 am    last updated on: 06.04.2014 at 09:33 am

RE: What's blooming (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: mbrowne on 05.10.2014 at 04:37 pm in Hummingbird Garden Forum

I've got a couple new plants blooming.

One buddleia is way ahead of my other two:

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The kangaroo paw isn't exactly a favorite, but they use it a bit:

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And still have the bottlebrush and lantana going:

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New for me this year, I started a cardinal climber. I noticed its first bloom this morning. We'll see how well they like it.

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clipped on: 06.03.2014 at 04:13 pm    last updated on: 06.03.2014 at 04:13 pm

RE: How to save a potted gift rose (Follow-Up #95)

posted by: seil on 05.15.2013 at 07:26 pm in Miniature Roses Forum

Nat, if you've had it in a 4 inch pot for a long time it probably could use a larger pot now. For one thing the soil in the small pot is probably pretty well depleted. For another if you want it to grow larger and bloom more it needs more root space. It will only produce the growth and blooms it's roots can support. Small roots/small plant. Go up to something maybe 10 to 15 inches and watch it grow!

I don't know what you mean by loosing the blooms. Do you mean they open, age and then fall off or they never open and the buds fall off? All roses bud, bloom then fade and die off. That's normal. Depending on the rose they can last anywhere from a day to about a week and then they die and sometimes fall off or need to be cut off, called dead heading. Then the rose will put on new growth and bloom again. It can take anywhere from 4 to 8 weeks for a new bloom to open.

If you are watering every day that's probably too much and may be why some of your leaves are yellowing. You should wait until the top inch of soil is dry between waterings. Then water thoroughly again. You should give it some fertilizer too occasionally. Any balanced fertilizer will work. Just read the package carefully and follow all the directions.

When you repot I DO NOT suggest you try and separate those plants. You will damage the roots badly in the process and stand the chance of losing them all. I have tried it many times with little success. Just pot the entire plant up into a larger pot being careful to not disturb the roots. Make sure the pot has good drainage holes and that you use POTTING soil and not any kind of garden or top soil.

And take it outside! Roses HATE being in the house. If you can plant it in the ground that would be even better. In zone 6 it should winter fine for you with maybe just a little bit of leaf mulch on it in the fall for protection. But even that isn't mandatory because I have many minis in the ground that winter here with no protection at all. If you do not plant it you can still winter it outside in a garage or shed. Just water it once a month all winter long and bring it back out next spring when you start to see some new growth on it.

Hope all that helps and ask if you have any more questions.

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clipped on: 06.03.2014 at 02:50 pm    last updated on: 06.03.2014 at 02:50 pm

RE: How to save a potted gift rose (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: fleursuzie on 05.10.2004 at 03:18 am in Miniature Roses Forum

Hi Guys...
Wow, I am really glad my post got the response that it did. I am sorry to those that asked questions...I have been away for a few weeks and didn't see all the posts until tonight.

First to psa146, I agree with mainesfwriter, if they are looking fine, leave them alone. If they are looking sickly..then you might need to do it. But being in AZ, you would need to be especially careful. I am sure it is hotter there right now than it is here in mid Georgia...we are getting mid 90's. If you do end up having to do it...I would strongly suggest either keeping them indoors for a week (in a high light area...sunny window with 4 hours sun would be great)...or at least keep them shaded and cool as you can if you have to have them outdoors until they have acclimated.

Like I said before, this is ONLY if they are looking sickly and you feel that it really needs to be done. If they appear to be thriving, leave them alone. You can separate in late winter or early spring before new growth starts.

To Dolce Vita... I am definitely the wrong person to ask about pruning...I usually just cut back to the first 5-leaf stem after the bloom is spent. Yes, I know, pruning is alot more detailed, but I always end up butchering things when I try to prune them (lol, just as my neighbors about my hedge!)
There is another thread on this board about pruning. I will add the link to it.
About when to pot up, do you mean initially when you first get them? In that instance, I usually allow them to bloom, then repot - UNLESS they are looking bad - in that case, I would repot immediately. For regular potting up of established plants, I wait until they go dormant (or in my case, close to dormant...mine don't loose all their leaves because it doesn't get cold enough here). If they get to where they are excessively root bound, then I will pot up regardless of the time of year.

To Small Bottle... you should have some blooms by now. Let me know how they did!

Sorry guys, didn't mean to make such a long post.

Suzanne

Here is a link that might be useful: Pruning Miniatures

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clipped on: 06.03.2014 at 01:57 pm    last updated on: 06.03.2014 at 01:57 pm

How to save a potted gift rose

posted by: fleursuzie on 04.04.2004 at 11:05 am in Miniature Roses Forum

Although I do not profess to being any type of expert on miniature roses, I find the pretense of having "toss away" roses obscene. That is what some people have called them here on the mini rose forum.

These potted gift roses (also known as grocery store roses) can easily be saved with very little effort.

Things you will need:
� A large mixing bowl or bucket
� One 6" pot per plant or two 12" pots
� Potting soil � it can have slow release fertilizer but NO water crystals

What to do:
1. Fill bowl or bucket with enough water to cover all the roots of the plants
2. Remove rose from pot and place in bowl, let sit for a few minutes
3. slowly "swish" the rose plants back and forth to loosen as much dirt as possible from the roots
4. When you have gotten as much soil off as possible, slowly start pulling the plants apart. Be very gentle so as to break as few roots as possible. The best way is to jiggle the roots around until one of the plants starts tilting. Then slowly pry the roots apart. It helps to return to water every now and then to swish the roots around again. (Note: don�t worry if you loose some of the roots...there really isn�t a way to avoid it from happening, especially if there is a strong network of roots growing)
5. When plants are separated, plant one each in a pot or alternatively, several around the perimeter of a larger pot.
6. Water pots and place in a well lit place but out of direct sunlight for a few days.

Notes:
Soil � Use regular, good quality, potting soil. It is ok if it has slow release fertilizer, but no fertilizer is better. Do NOT use soil with water retention crystals. (Although peat moss is ok)

If the plants are waterlogged (the soil from the original pot is soggy and boggy, the leaves are all turning yellow, etc) it is best to withhold water for the first 12 to 24 hours after replanting (this gives the roots a chance to dry out a little and excess moisture will be leached into the new dry soil). After that time, water well to make sure that there are no air pockets from when you potted up. ( � note: this is after you have put the rose in its new pot, you can still use the bucket of water to separate them)

Keep the newly potted roses out of direct sun for a couple of days. After that, acclimate it to direct sunlight.

Once the rose is established (about 2-4 weeks after repotting) start fertilizing. You can tell if it has established itself when new growth starts forming

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clipped on: 06.03.2014 at 01:54 pm    last updated on: 06.03.2014 at 01:55 pm

RE: Quest for a good lavender (Follow-Up #51)

posted by: susan9santabarbara on 09.01.2012 at 12:26 am in Roses Forum

Fragrant lavenders/purples are probably my favorite type of rose, next being fragrant reds. I grow and love Heirloom, Neptune, Charles de Gaulle, Neptune, Lagerfeld, Barbra Streisand, Silver Star (1960's), Stainless Steel, Midnight Blue, Ebb Tide, and even the pathetic Sterling Silver. I have the Vintage version of SS (via Kim) and it's worth growing after losing several generic Sterling Silvers when I first started growing roses. Not vigorous but okay. I have Blue Girl in my back yard inherited with the house and it's not great, but worth keeping. I've grown a number of great non-fragrant lavenders like Blue Bayou.

I've ditched a few (Silver Shadows, Royal Amethyst, Fragrant Plum and another one I can't remember the name of among them).

But the rare-ish rose mentioned above that you really need to find is Lila Vidri. I bought it originally from Arena as Leila Verde. I've since made tons of cuttings of it for myself and friends. I have three in my current garden. The fragrance and performance are amazing.

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clipped on: 06.03.2014 at 04:14 am    last updated on: 06.03.2014 at 04:16 am

RE: Balboa Park San Diego anyone? (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: hoosierquilt on 05.30.2014 at 02:48 pm in California Gardening Forum

What everyone said - the rose garden is a bit past prime, as we had a wicked heat wave a few weeks ago, but you may see some things back in bloom. If you ever visit a bit earlier, besides the Balboa Park rose garden, you definitely will want to drive up to the Carlsbad Flower Fields to see all the lovely Ranunculus in bloom, plus they also have a spectacular rose garden, as well as all the Ecke poinsettias in a tent. Worth the visit if you can time it right. And, the San Diego Botanical Garden in Encinitas is not to be missed. Very lovely and magical there.

Patty S.

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clipped on: 05.30.2014 at 05:59 pm    last updated on: 05.30.2014 at 05:59 pm