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RE: Lee Valley Drawer Inserts (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: waterdamage on 04.01.2012 at 03:46 pm in Kitchens Forum

There are companies that sell deeper dividers. I bought but have not installed Tra-Sta deep Drawer organizers from wwhardware.com

I am not handy and would have found it hard to get stacked Lee Valley drawer dividers to line up. It also depends how much weight you want them to be able to hold.


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clipped on: 04.01.2012 at 11:33 pm    last updated on: 04.01.2012 at 11:33 pm

RE: Where do you put paper towels, wet dish towels, cutting board (Follow-Up #17)

posted by: buehl on 03.23.2010 at 11:33 pm in Kitchens Forum

tamdave123, I have the first one... It works great for the most part. The only time it doesn't work perfectly is when the roll is just about out, not just low, but down to the last 3 or 4 sheets. The rest of the time it works great! We usually use the "select-a-size" paper towels, the ones w/the small sheets, to cut down on waste. Occasionally, I'll make a mistake & buy the full-size sheet ones. Both kinds work in the holder.

It's on the counter on the right in this picture...

BTW...I bought it at Bed, Bath, & Beyond. You can use their 20% off or $5 off coupons. If you don't have a coupon, sign up at their website and you should start receiving them. Despite the expiration date on BB&B coupons, they never really expire. I save them up and hardly ever buy anything for full price there.

Here is a link that might be useful: Simply Tear Paper Tower Holder from Oxo


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clipped on: 03.20.2012 at 03:23 pm    last updated on: 03.20.2012 at 03:24 pm

RE: tension curtain rods as tray dividers? (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: ICFgreen on 12.11.2011 at 10:51 pm in Kitchens Forum

I've seen that idea on Pinterest for drawers like this:

and dividers for baking dishes:

and even for holding bottles under the sink:

Our kitchen is 3 days from getting cabinet installed (!!) so I haven't been able to try them yet, but in my current kitchen drawers (I only have a few), I picked up these bamboo dividers at Tuesday Morning and I LOVE them.

Source: amazon.com via Jen on Pinterest


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clipped on: 12.18.2011 at 11:16 pm    last updated on: 12.18.2011 at 11:16 pm

RE: Need Photos Please: White Perimeter cabs & Gray Island (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: boxerpups on 11.27.2011 at 12:03 pm in Kitchens Forum

Here are a few, forgive me many of these you have
seen a 1000 times but maybe something will give you
ideas.
~bp


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gray

marble


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Hood SS

uppers

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no uppers

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dark island

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tile wall

tier counter

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dark island

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island sink
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white gray

gray


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clipped on: 11.27.2011 at 09:40 pm    last updated on: 11.27.2011 at 09:40 pm

RE: Knives and cutting boards (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: sally123 on 10.25.2011 at 07:37 pm in Kitchens Forum

I started out 30 years ago with a set of Chicago knives that I got for a wedding present. I thought they were the best. Then I tried a Wusthof. I bought a set, then a few more. I have more than I need. They are so sharp and so comfortable. I really love them. I used to keep them in a block on the counter but in my new kitchen designated a drawer for them next to the prep sink. See:
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I used to use only wood cutting boards, but got a plastic one and was always reaching for it because it can go in the dishwasher. I got a couple more at Ikea for 99 cents and use only plastic now. I think wood is better for the blades, but plastic is so much easier to clean up.


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clipped on: 10.25.2011 at 09:24 pm    last updated on: 10.25.2011 at 09:25 pm

Lurker's very late finished kitchen post

posted by: carlnorum on 10.16.2011 at 09:47 pm in Kitchens Forum

Hi everyone,

I haven't been around here much since May or so when we finally finished our project. I have at long last gotten the before & after pictures from our kitchen designer and wrote up a blog post about all of our kitchen details. Before getting down to the pics & links, I want to thank the kitchen forum for two big ingredients in our kitchen. My wife & I were reading the thread about "biggest kitchen regrets" from a few years back, and it definitely helped us make some decisions - first to go with the crazy granite, which I wouldn't have any other way now that it's been installed, and second to put garbage disposal units in both sinks.

Now then, without further ado, some before & after pictures and a list of all our kitchen details. I hope that they can help provide other forum regulars and lurkers with even a fraction of the design ideas and inspiration we found by hanging around this forum before and during our project. All these images and details are also available here.

Before Pictures - click thumbnails for larger versions:
Before - old galley kitchen.Before - galley side 1.Before - galley side 2.Before - kitchen wall to be removed.Before - kitchen wall to be removed.Before - staircase wall to be removed.

After Pictures - click thumbnails for larger versions:
After - much improved!After - wide open spaces.After - appliances.After - island.After - sink & cooktop.After - staircase wall.

Vendor information and design details:

Big thanks to Yana, Greg, Jan, and everyone else at Artistic Kitchen Design & Remodeling for all of their help with this project. It was a lot of work and it seemed like it was taking forever, but the finished product is as good as we could have hoped for and better!

NOTES:

big curved island
clipped on: 10.18.2011 at 09:31 pm    last updated on: 10.18.2011 at 09:32 pm

RE: a question for owners of undermount sinks (Follow-Up #17)

posted by: circuspeanut on 09.29.2011 at 01:25 pm in Kitchens Forum

Madeline, I think he's referring to the underside of the countertop rim that hangs over the sink in a negative reveal installation.

People have argued this issue for years on this forum. Honestly, I think it's just about where you prefer your gunk to be. Some are more grossed out when it's not visible, some the other way around. We all want to avoid gunk, and we all choose the sink install that will help us do so most effectively according to our own habits.

In short, your gunk choices:


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clipped on: 10.18.2011 at 09:25 pm    last updated on: 10.18.2011 at 09:26 pm

RE: Where would you put an outlet on this island? (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: robbcs3 on 10.16.2011 at 01:19 pm in Kitchens Forum

why not do something like this pop up?
http://www.mockett.com/furniture-hardware/catalogsearch/result/?q=PCS34


NOTES:

pop up outlet for granite island
clipped on: 10.16.2011 at 09:47 pm    last updated on: 10.16.2011 at 09:47 pm

Traditional kitchen - finally finished (pics)

posted by: mratner on 09.12.2011 at 01:56 pm in Kitchens Forum

Thanks very much to everyone in this forum for many helpful hints and suggestions. Thought I'd share the views of the finished product.

Cabinets and hardware by Kraftmaid: Upper - painted, Biscotti with Coconut Glaze; Island - stained Cherry, Kaffe
Floors - existing, red oak refinished
Wall paint - BM Wheatfield
Granite - New Colonial Dream, from Marble.com
Backsplash - Jerusalem Gold limestone, from Antico Stone
Mural (over the range) - mail-order from Jerusalem Pottery
Faucets - Brizo Talo, the main one SmartTouch
Sinks - Elkay
Range - NXT
Fridge - Samsung
Built-in Microwave/Oven - the 120V Advantium (GE Profile)
Dishwasher - GE Profile 580

All comments are welcome, thanks!

Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug
Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug
Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug
Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug

NOTES:

12" flanking cabinets around hood and prep sink window
clipped on: 09.13.2011 at 09:43 pm    last updated on: 09.13.2011 at 09:43 pm

RE: Antique white cabinets...what color granite? (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: brianadarnell on 09.07.2011 at 10:10 am in Kitchens Forum

I love colonial cream with the white cabs. Have you seen the kitchen that was recently released with yellow river granite? It sticks in my mind because it was really beautiful. I'll link it below. I just did Brookhaven cabs in antique white. I used White Alaska delicatus granite. We just moved in so I haven't done finished photos,but here's a link to my gallery...One word of caution. Check the antique white in your space with your lighting...I think a whiter granite (bianco antico or delicatus) may make the shade of the cabinets look different than a more yellowy granite.

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Here is a link that might be useful: Fromthesouth's beautiful kitchen


NOTES:

Light Granite Color suggestions to go with white cabinets
clipped on: 09.11.2011 at 09:34 pm    last updated on: 09.11.2011 at 09:35 pm

RE: Is kitchen under cabinet light worth it? (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: Ginny20 on 09.11.2011 at 03:30 pm in Kitchens Forum

Love my dimmable LED UCL. I consider it a must have.

My GC used Seagull Linear LED, and it looks great. Environmental and Kichler make good ones, also. The people at Environmental will help you figure out exactly what you need and price it out for you.


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clipped on: 09.11.2011 at 09:09 pm    last updated on: 09.11.2011 at 09:09 pm

RE: Aliris19 - cutting board drawer? (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: aliris19 on 09.10.2011 at 02:00 am in Kitchens Forum

Hi SBelle - Sorry not to have noticed your question; I've been very offline lately. But your response to what I'd posted over in appliances came to my email so that's good. Just for the record, if anyone wants to reach another and they've enabled the possibility, you can click on their name, I think, and find your way to GW's email info for them.

Anyway, onward. I was just thinking about (and loving) my cutting board drawers today so thanks for asking! This has worked better than I dreamed. I used to keep these things on edge between a toaster oven and a wall on the counter in my old kitchen -- they were always slipping over and falling down various cracks and -oh - so many headaches. I just slide open this long, tall drawer which is right under my work surface and voila!

I love the concept of those old cutting boards that themselves slide in underneath the counter. But I found you could never cut very hard on them and they wobbled always, up and down enough to be really annoying when chopping. I imagine modern technology can deal with this and I know some here like theirs. But you're right, it's not what I have.

Here's an overview of the space where it's at. It's the tall thin drawer:

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And here's a picture of it open.

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And here's a picture of the insides:

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My biggest, favoritest cutting board from days of yore won't fit -- it's massive and actually sits on the bottom of that open shelf you see, protecting it and available when I want to haul it out. I have only done so once; it's kind of a pain to do so because stuff resides on top of it now. I might have to do something about that in the future.

But the point is, this particular drawer at least won't fit a really big cutting board inside. That would have to go in the kind of setup, I think, mentioned above - essentially a cookie sheet slotted setup.

But for all "normal" sized cutting boards it works great. The interior of my drawer measures 5 7/8"w x 19"d x 15 3/4"h. So it's narrow and deep. And sits next to an open shelf that I use for quick, easy access to a compost bucket, salad spinner (always wet, but it doesn't matter in the open shelf), colanders, lg. cutting board, etc.

The only issue, and it hasn't been a problem at all, just something I've noticed, is that because the drawer glides are on the bottom of such a tall thin drawer, it wobbles a bit pulling in and out; it's just a little bit unsupported. It's not a problem, but with more weight or less care closing or perhaps more time it could be I suppose. I don't think you can make a drawer infinitely high for this wobbling reason (that is, there's some limit on a functional height, but I don't know what it would be and it's a function of more than just height but weight and configuration too I imagine).

I highly recommend this setup if you have a good space available.


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clipped on: 09.10.2011 at 10:42 am    last updated on: 09.10.2011 at 10:43 am

New finished kitchen pictures

posted by: adh673 on 09.09.2011 at 02:57 pm in Kitchens Forum

Hi all,

The design firm that we bought our cabinets from sent in a professional photographer to take pictures of our kitchen for their ads/portfolio, so I thought I'd post these too since the lighting is significantly better than in the ones I took! Also, giving a link to the original thread with the details of what is what.

Hope everyone's kitchen projects are going well!

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Here is a link to all the photos, there were too many to post.

http://photobucket.com/amykdg

Here is a link that might be useful: Original reveal post

NOTES:

Such a beautiful kitchen
clipped on: 09.09.2011 at 11:15 pm    last updated on: 09.09.2011 at 11:16 pm

RE: Mudroom locker systems from cabinet companies? (Follow-Up #20)

posted by: nesez on 11.06.2007 at 09:11 am in Building a Home Forum

I've received a couple of emails asking about the locker system my husband built (red one)

It is approx 66 3/4 inches wide and 25 1/2 inches deep. The four dividers are approx 11 1/2 deep and 16 1/4 wide.

My husband built it himself using cabinet grade 3/4 inch plywood with veneer facing (available at hom depot), and the backing is 2 sheets of 4x8 bead board. With paint and all materials (drawer glides, plywood, bead board, and trim )it cost about $150-175.

If you have anymore questions, feel free to email.


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clipped on: 09.07.2011 at 03:40 pm    last updated on: 09.07.2011 at 03:40 pm

RE: What should go within easy reach of the cooktop? (Follow-Up #13)

posted by: buehl on 12.08.2009 at 04:47 am in Kitchens Forum

This might also help...

  • Cabinet 1: 24" base, 3 drawers
  • Cabinet 2: 30" base, 2 drawers + Warming Drawer
  • Cabinet 3: 6" filler pullout w/3 shelves
  • Cabinet 4: 36" cooktop base, 3 drawers
  • Cabinet 5: 6" filler pullout w/3 shelves
  • Cabinet 6: 31" base, 1 drawer + Microwave Drawer
  • Cabinet 7: 36" corner sink base w/15-3/4" square sink
  • Cabinet 8: 24" base, 4 drawers
  • Cabinet 9: 27" base, 1 drawer + 2 roll out shelves (2 doors)
  • Cabinet 10: 18"W x 15"D x 36"H upper, 4 shelves
  • Cabinet 11: 21"W x 12"D x 30"H upper, 3 shelves
  • Cabinet 12: 18"W x 15"D x 36"H upper, 4 shelves
  • Cabinet 13: 18"W x 15"D x 36"H upper, 4 shelves
  • Cabinet 14: 21"W x 12"D x 30"H upper, 3 shelves
  • Cabinet 15: 18"W x 15"D x 36"H upper, 4 shelves
  • Cabinet 16: 36"W x 24"D over-the-refrigerator cabinet
  • Cabinet 17: 33" base, 3 drawers
  • Cabinet 18: 18" Trash Pullout + 1 drawer (2 bins)
  • Cabinet 19: 36" sink base w/35-1/2" sink
  • Cabinet 20: 24" DW
  • Cabinet 21: 27" base, 3 drawers
  • Cabinet 22: 31.5" double-oven cabinet, 1 drawer + cabinet above w/dividers for tray storage & 1 shelf
  • Cabinet 23: 23"W x 12"D x 36"H upper cabinet, 4 shelves
  • Cabinet 24: 23"W x 12"D x 36"H upper cabinet, 4 shelves

  • NOTES:

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    clipped on: 09.07.2011 at 02:13 pm    last updated on: 09.07.2011 at 02:13 pm

    RE: Width and depth for mudroom cubbies? (Follow-Up #1)

    posted by: mommyto4boys on 11.21.2008 at 10:19 am in Building a Home Forum

    I'll try to get a picture later. Mudroom cubbies is one of the smartest things we did in our new home. We have six and they are 24" wide and about 20 deep. I'll explain ours from the foor up, we have 6 total and each has...first each has a shoe/boot area, then a nice big drawer for gloves, papers etc., over the top of the drawer then is the bench area. The area above each bench is the tallest, 3 ft or so, this area has 3 hooks in each cubby for coats, backpacks and sweaters. Above the "hook" area we have a 6" high door on each that flips up. This area houses keys, cell phones and "whatevers" for the kids. We put an outlet inside each of these & we charge cell phones etc. Then finally above that is an open compartment that I placed a sorage basket in each and off season had hats etc in there. Amazing how a space 12' X 20' has organized our life and keeps the kitchen etc free of clutter.


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    clipped on: 09.04.2011 at 10:23 pm    last updated on: 09.04.2011 at 10:23 pm

    RE: Way cool Lee Valley organizers: way too much? (Follow-Up #9)

    posted by: lowspark on 06.30.2011 at 03:06 pm in Kitchens Forum

    I used the Lee Valley dividers and I'm very happy with the results. Learned about 'em here, by the way.

    They were very easy to deal with. I used a rubber mallet to tap them into the wood. Didn't take a whole lot of effort. I bought the wood strips at Lowe's.

    I didn't want to hammer the dividers directly into the drawers because I didn't want permanent holes in the wood. So I made a frame for each drawer and attached the dividers to that frame. The entire set up in each drawer is fully removable without leaving any permanent signs of ever having existed in the drawer.

    Here are pix:


    NOTES:

    Beautiful Dividers
    clipped on: 09.02.2011 at 05:27 pm    last updated on: 09.02.2011 at 05:27 pm

    RE: Ice machine recommendation (Follow-Up #1)

    posted by: deeageaux on 08.23.2011 at 09:35 pm in Appliances Forum

    I will give you the benefit of me having researched this to the nth degree for months.

    IMO Manitowoc makes the second best undercounter residential ice maker. They don't make a custom panel version under their brand name. They do make one for Sub-Zero. Below is an open-box version for $2499

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/SUB-ZERO-15-UNDERCOUNTER-PANEL-READY-ICE-MAKER-UC-15IP-/200637964035?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2eb6f45f03

    The best IMO is Hoshizaki below is a link for one for $1468 plus shipping. Brand new. Japanese company but made in the USA. Service can be significantly more expensive than Scotsman but rarely needs it.I think 48 of 50 largest fast food chains are now specifing Hoshizaki for low cost of operation.

    This is for the top-hat ice version.They do make a pebble ice version for alot more money.

    IMO Scotsman is average.

    Here is a link that might be useful: Hoshizaki


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    clipped on: 08.25.2011 at 11:10 pm    last updated on: 08.25.2011 at 11:10 pm

    RE: Need under- cabinet lighting advice! (Follow-Up #7)

    posted by: seaduck on 08.14.2011 at 10:12 pm in Kitchens Forum

    We have just had our undercab lights installed, and I couldn't be happier.

    Through this AMAZING forum, I found a reference to Environmental Lights in California. I was interested in LEDs, but very leery of the light quality/color.

    Long/short, we ended up ordering MaxLite LED strips from them. These are warm white (2700K -- I was very particular about that, cuz I can tell the difference with so called warm whites that are 3000K). They are dimmable. They do not require transformers or 'drivers' -- they connect to 120V. They come in 12" lengths; we got the ones with 33 bulbs/foot, which is 200 lumen output.

    They look fabulous! Better even than I'd imagined... The electrician, who had never installed them, was thrilled...said they were incredibly easy.

    And Environment Lights was terrific to work with. You can buy a sample -- one 12" unit with a plug, to see what it will look like.

    You can (maybe should) bypass your local electrical supplier, and definitely bypass the bigbox guys.

    Re spacing: I just bought them to run the lenght of the cabs to the nearest foot increment. They are not very big...maybe 3/4 of an inch?...so they tuck right behind the frame at the front edge of the cabinets. Could not be easier.

    Here is a link that might be useful: Environmental Lights -- Self-Driven Dimmable MaxLite


    NOTES:

    someone else said
    LED is the preferred option, but good quality LED lights are more expensive than their xenon/halogen counterparts, Especially if you want them to be dimmable. Quality of Fluorescent tubes will also vary from poor to good depending on price. xenon/halogen produce a bit heat (halogen produces a little more I think) but they're going to be cheaper, typically dimmable, and produce more consistent lighting across brands.

    clipped on: 08.19.2011 at 06:41 pm    last updated on: 08.19.2011 at 06:41 pm

    RE: Need under- cabinet lighting advice! (Follow-Up #3)

    posted by: celtinNE on 08.14.2011 at 09:09 am in Kitchens Forum

    I went with Seagull Ambiance lighting in and under the cabs. They are LED pods, 10W each. They do not plug in to the outlets. I dont' know if the big box stores sell them. I got mine from a local electrical supply house. I would recommend doing the lighting before the tile.

    hERE'S A PIC OF THE SYSTEM:

    Photobucket

    And the little light pods that can be plugged in anywhere on the cord.

    Photobucket

    And installed under the cab

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    And in the cab

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    Good luck! HTH


    NOTES:

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    clipped on: 08.19.2011 at 06:37 pm    last updated on: 08.19.2011 at 06:38 pm

    RE: Need under- cabinet lighting advice! (Follow-Up #2)

    posted by: davidro1 on 08.14.2011 at 08:55 am in Kitchens Forum

    All the various incandescents produce a lot of heat.
    Under any name (zenon, xenon, halogen, etc), they are all incandescent.
    They all make more heat than light.
    You can safely disregard opinions about "zenon" or "brand X" of zenon.

    LED is going to be the only way to go.
    LED lighting is improving every year.

    Fluorescent (long thin tubes) is the 3rd option.
    Fluorescent light tubes (when expensive) can produce very good light.
    The tubes can be as thin as 1/4"; many are available in 1/2" thickness.
    key concepts: CRI ; temperature .
    web search to get more info.
    read more here too http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/lighting/

    Here is a link that might be useful: gardenweb forum for lighting


    NOTES:

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    clipped on: 08.19.2011 at 06:37 pm    last updated on: 08.19.2011 at 06:37 pm

    RE: Drawers vs Cabinet Rollouts (Follow-Up #22)

    posted by: buehl on 08.04.2011 at 07:02 pm in Kitchens Forum

    I'm glad Suzannes1 has her question answered and her issue resolved. For future readers, I've linked several threads discussing drawer base configurations, one or two pulls per drawer, and drawers vs roll out tray shelves (ROTS) (a.k.a., pull out shelves). [KDs and cabinetmakers usually call them "ROTS".]

    Thread: Drawers or doors with pull outs?
    Thread: 3 or 4 drawers per cabinet stack?
    Thread: Drawers over pull outs in Cabinets
    Thread: Need help: 1 or 2 pulls on kitchen cabinet drawers?
    Thread: Show me pics of your cabinet hardware placement please :-)
    Thread: How many pulls on 36'' pan drawers?
    Thread: number of cabinet pulls

    Getting at items in the front...with ROTS, you still have to open the door(s) b/f you can even see what's in the front of an ROTS, then you have to close the door(s) (and move out of the way of the doors). With drawers, you only have to pull the drawer out enough to retrieve the item and then close it...no having to stand aside or step back to open the door(s)...just far enough to open the drawer (and standing right next to it, not a step or two away).

    Regarding items sticking out over the edges in framed (overlay and inset) cabinets...Sticking out over the front edge is fine, but there really isn't much room b/w the door and the ROTS. Sticking out over the sides, however, can be an issue...those handles, etc. can get hung up on the face frame and, if you force them, can ding/gouge your face frames and knock other items around (even off the ROTS). Frameless cabinets don't have a frame so it's not an issue (as long as the hinges aren't in the way) and this can be an advantage...but does this advantage outweigh some of the disadvantages? Only you can decide for yourself.

    (Florantha...are you speaking about framed or frameless cabinets? Did you mean sticking out over the front, sides, or both?)


    NOTES:

    drawer vs. pullout thread discussions
    clipped on: 08.06.2011 at 04:00 pm    last updated on: 08.06.2011 at 04:00 pm

    RE: Most durable brand of white paint for cabinets? (Follow-Up #2)

    posted by: kawh707 on 08.03.2011 at 03:45 am in Kitchens Forum

    when it comes to any cupboard, shelf, etc. i am a total groupie for benjamin mooore "impervex latex metal and wood enamel." it feels like oil-based paint as it goes on.

    i used it first 19 years ago on some shelves/cupboards we had built in the dining room. did 2 good coats with lots of time to dry between. that finish is still like the day we put it on. the stuff is just amazing. i have not yet discovered anything i like better.
    kawh


    NOTES:

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    clipped on: 08.03.2011 at 03:42 pm    last updated on: 08.03.2011 at 03:42 pm

    RE: get me into 2011 with my oak kitchen (Follow-Up #10)

    posted by: beekeeperswife on 07.29.2011 at 09:32 am in Kitchens Forum

    I painted my oak cabinets. Lots of work, used wood filler to eliminate the grain. Added molding to the top and bottom of the cabinets. As far as other oak cabinets in the house (have them in the bathrooms) I am gel staining them all dark espresso color. They really look great.

    Here is a before and an after photo of my kitchen.

    Photobucket

    and after
    Photobucket


    NOTES:

    Bee's amazing before and after kitchen pictures
    clipped on: 08.01.2011 at 10:34 pm    last updated on: 08.01.2011 at 10:34 pm

    Calling Enduring i found LED lights that are dim-able

    posted by: Lesyeuxbleu on 07.28.2011 at 03:30 pm in Kitchens Forum

    This is for ENDURING and anyone interested. I could not figure out a way to post this to you specifically. So I hope more people find this interesting. =).

    Enduring had commented about wanting led lights that were dim-able. I had recently gone to a showroom and they sent me home with a catalog of LED lighting by www.CreeLEDLighting.com The specific Item she told us about is the LR6-GU24 for new construction and retrofit "that installs easily in most standard six inch recessed IC or non-IC houseing." My husband did most of the talking/learning but I remember wanting it. We have new construction, but already had our recessed lights installed. I believe this light had a kit that literally clipped onto/into the existing fixture to house an LED light and it is (per catalog) dimmable to 20%. I don't think you even have to change LED lights for years and years. It would be perfect for someone with High ceilings or stairways or just plain hard to reach areas.

    NOTES:

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    clipped on: 08.01.2011 at 10:16 pm    last updated on: 08.01.2011 at 10:16 pm

    Finished Finished! Rancher Remodel, dark to light! (tons pix)

    posted by: firsthouse_mp on 06.28.2010 at 02:29 pm in Kitchens Forum

    We are done, we are moved in.....after 17mos living with my mom and enduring living out of cardboard boxes! Love love love my new kitchen!! Thank you to all of you who deeply inspired me (redroze,elizpiz,rm,theanimala,segbrown,many many more!), and I hope you don't mind that there's a piece of each of your kitchens that I copied because I admired it so much. I learned so much by lurking, reading everything then finally posting.

    THINGS WE LOVE:
    --Our cabinets were so reasonable and they work beautifully. We LOVE Precision Cabinets! Their install was immaculate and perfect. When we had a glitch with the warming drawer, they fixed it perfectly! While I couldn't afford every "bell & whistle" inside the cabinets, I love them.
    --White Princess honed. It's gorgeous and I no longer have the OCD urge to constantly wipe my counters (our old granite was polished). I also love my backsplash done in the same material--I am attracted to visual simplicity so couldn't pick a tile :)
    --Cheap dishwasher. Paid $500 and we love it.
    --Deep cheap sinks. Our main Ebay sink is awesome($500)! Love the 10" big single bowl. The island sink was cheap too, and is the perfect size, $150.
    --White everywhere and one big room. Not for everyone, but my DH and I love the big open light-filled room. Far cry from the dark rancher that it was. We tore down two walls and raised the ceiling.
    --The soapstone buffet. It was a remnant piece and I love that it doesn't match the rest of the kitchen. Sets it apart and boy does the texture feel nice!
    --The papertowel niche. Not important, but I like that the towels are off my counter and totally accessible.
    --The two hidden cabinets in the island near the stools. All my Xmas dishes, Thanksgiving platters and everything fit in here!

    THINGS WE WOULDN'T DO AGAIN:
    --The Vent Hood: Modernaire was a NIGHTMARE to deal with here in the NorCal area. You have to go through a distributor who will upcharge you $2,000 to order a hood. Modernaire won't sell directly to anyone who is in the area of one of their distributors. The rep here was a complete idiot, ripped me off and in the end didn't deliver what I had ordered. I had to then hire someone else to fix the goofs. Not worth it!

    --Order our range through AJ Madison. Total pain to get this stove delivered. The rest of our appliances came without a hitch but the delivery of the range was a disaster. They refused to deliver it until we had a concrete pathway, but our city had some issues with solid pathways and the runoff, etc. Had 4 delivery dates and they turned around each time and refused to bring it in the house. In the end I would have purchased this through our local store (there was no discount on this by buying on internet, unlike the other appliances).

    THINGS WE STILL NEED TO DO:
    --Help me pick kitchen table chairs! Those pictured are folding chairs for holidays. Our old ones were falling apart, so we ditched them in the move. What should I put there?
    --Shades ordered and we are waiting for them to come and be hung.
    --The stools (CB2 Vapor) are too tall and we need to have the legs cut down. They only come in 30" or 24" and one is too tall and the other is too short. Sigh.

    THE DETAILS:
    CabinetryPrecision Cabinets, Brentwood, CA; painted in stock color which matches Simply White
    WallsBM Simply White
    Kitchen CountersWhite Princess granite, from DaVinci Marble & Stone in San Carlos, CA, with 2.25" mitred square edge
    Buffet CounterBrazilian Black soapstone from Texeira, SF, with no edge finish
    Door and Drawer PullsTop Knobs, Square Pulls, Polished Chrome; ordered off the internet
    Main SinkEbay purchase 36" SS Farmhouse w/apron front , single bowl, flushmount
    Island SinkDawn 19X17 single bowl, undermount
    Main FaucetBlanco Meridien Semi-Professional in Brushed
    Island FaucetSantec Penza pull out in Brushed
    RefrigeratorElectrolux WaveTouch; ordered off Homeeverything.com
    DishwasherWhirlpool Gold Quiet Partner III; ordered from AJ Madison
    Microwave DrawerSharp 24"; ordered from AJ Madison
    RangeViking Range w/6 burners and griddle; ordered from AJ Madison
    Hood Modernaire custom hood
    Trash CompactorGE Profile in SS; ordered from AJ Madison
    Warming DrawerKitchenaid Architect Series II; ordered off Homeeverything.com; panel from cabinet co.
    BacksplashWhite Princess granite
    WindowsSemco
    Flooring-DuChateau pre-engineered floors in Lugano
    Big Slider DoorCustom made 10 bypass doors by McFarland Doors, w/custom screen
    Island PendantsHudson Valley Pelham 13" ordered from Butler Lighting
    Breakfast Table PendantRound 26" linen chandelier by Restoration Hardware
    Buffet SconcesBoston Library Sconces by CircaLighting.com

    Before:
    Before Remodel
    Family room:Before Remodel
    Before Remodel

    After:
    House
    Photobucket
    House
    House
    House
    House
    House
    House
    House
    House
    House
    House
    House

    NOTES:

    Awesome clean white kitchen with a huge island!
    MC drawer
    Good Paper Towel Storage
    Great clear stools
    clipped on: 08.01.2011 at 09:54 pm    last updated on: 08.01.2011 at 09:55 pm

    RE: Minimum size for walk-in pantry (Follow-Up #12)

    posted by: mairin on 07.17.2010 at 09:10 am in Kitchens Forum

    ours is 6' by 7.5' I love the size of it. we have wire shelving on 2 walls from floor to ceiling(the long one for all our food, the shorter one for all the large appliances). the door takes one wall and the other long wall I have a rolling butcher block cart (IKEA) for all the kids crafts/bins and our coffee maker. We have our step ladders and brooms etc behind the door. HTH


    NOTES:

    Walk-in Pantry Design Idea
    clipped on: 07.28.2011 at 07:35 pm    last updated on: 07.31.2011 at 09:58 pm

    RE: Anyone see a pantry like this one? (Follow-Up #1)

    posted by: sarschlos_remodeler on 08.08.2008 at 03:42 am in Kitchens Forum

    My pantry's not nearly as pretty (or well organized!) as that, but functionally I have something very similar. Ours is a "corner" pantry that is 5' wide and 27' deep, with 12'' shelves along the long wall and 14'' shelves along one short wall. It's sort of a "step in" as opposed to a walk-in. I love it. In fact, it's one of the few things I love about our current kitchen (which is an original 1964 kitchen that received a minor paint-hardware-appliances face lift back in the 1980s). It's very easy to organize and find things. My one gripe is that the shelves are too close together so that tall items like cereal boxes don't fit -- but this was made back in `1964, when cereal boxes were smaller, I guess.


    NOTES:

    <none>
    clipped on: 07.31.2011 at 09:53 pm    last updated on: 07.31.2011 at 09:53 pm

    RE: Under sink trash pullout? (Follow-Up #15)

    posted by: morton5 on 11.10.2010 at 10:27 pm in Kitchens Forum

    I have 8-gallon trash and recycling bins in pullouts under my prep sink. The cabs are Ikea, and I used the Ikeafans modification for my set-up. I also have a small disposal at this sink and a never-MT. We were able to fit it all because the GC flipped the orientation of the sink so that the rear drain is at the front. This allowed all of the plumbing to fit in a single plane. I love having trash and recycling by my prep area and do not find the placement under the sink to be inconvenient at all.
    Photobucket
    Photobucket
    Photobucket


    NOTES:

    <none>
    clipped on: 07.28.2011 at 10:25 pm    last updated on: 07.28.2011 at 10:25 pm

    RE: Where do you put your wax paper, clingwrap, storage bags, etc (Follow-Up #14)

    posted by: buehl on 07.25.2011 at 05:15 pm in Kitchens Forum

    Over the years, I've realized that, for me, these items work best if they're not "stacked". That meant shallow drawers when I designed my kitchen.

    Foil and parchment paper are in a top shallow drawer (30" wide) in my Baking Center b/c it's close to the ovens and where I prep foods for the oven (baking, roasting, etc.)

    Baking Tools & Utensils, Foil, Parchment Paper, 30


    Plastic bags and wraps are in a shallow 24" wide drawer on my peninsula and across from the refrigerator where I use them most often...for making lunches and putting away leftovers (2nd drawer down, above bread & electrical stuff and below the silverware drawer). My MW is to the left, so wax paper is also in this drawer.

    Wraps, Bags, Wax Paper, 24


    You can see the zones/locations here:

    Zones (small pic)


    NOTES:

    <none>
    clipped on: 07.26.2011 at 05:00 pm    last updated on: 07.26.2011 at 05:01 pm

    RE: Please remove the yellow out of my cream, please... (Follow-Up #1)

    posted by: mtnrdredux on 07.09.2011 at 09:40 am in Kitchens Forum

    I am a big fan of BM Cotton Balls, but I think it is poorly named. To me it is an old white, with a hint of cream. I used it on my kitchen walls. I used Halo on my cabinets, which has a hint of grey, to me. My whole house is shades of white, mostly from FnB, such as Lime White, Pointing and Slipper Satin.


    NOTES:

    mtnrdredux-thank you for sharing what you have used. I thought the same thing when I saw the name "cotton ball", the paint chip is creamy, not white. A friend used BM White Dove on her cabinets, but it looks too white for me in the pictures. Is the "halo" color a BM color? I like the idea of "shades of white" for the whole house! The paint store girl told me that P&L Arrowroot is the "new Lambswool" in terms of popularity with all the designers in my area...it is a cream with a grey feel to it??? I love Lambswool, but it has been used to death and yet I still see it in magazines and I still love it...Hmmm...lots of choices.

    BM Elephant Task - white with grey but creamy and warm

    clipped on: 07.09.2011 at 11:53 am    last updated on: 07.09.2011 at 11:54 am