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RE: Mistakes that others can learn from (Follow-Up #54)

posted by: Angie_DIY on 11.20.2011 at 01:11 am in Kitchens Forum

Ordinary silicone caulk is NOT paintable. Neither latex or oil sticks to it. There is paintable silicone caulk, however, which sticks to ordinary silicone caulk; you can use it to cover the ordinary stuff, then paint that. Phew.

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clipped on: 11.23.2011 at 09:13 pm    last updated on: 11.23.2011 at 09:13 pm

What was your best bathroom remodeling decision?

posted by: ashlander on 02.19.2007 at 12:40 am in Bathrooms Forum

We're having a difficult time making decisions for our bathroom remodel: choice of shower stall, toilet, flooring, counter, and perhaps even a fireplace. This will be the first and only remodel for our bathroom, so we hate to mess up.
Would appreciate any words of wisdom or advice.
What do you regret? What would you change? What was your best decision concerning the bathroom?

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clipped on: 11.20.2011 at 10:11 pm    last updated on: 11.20.2011 at 10:11 pm

RE: Pic of espresso cabinet, carrera, chrome fixtures, memoirs si (Follow-Up #27)

posted by: pps7 on 06.22.2011 at 08:01 pm in Bathrooms Forum

Thank you for the kind words! I must say, my bathroom may be my favorite room in our house! Finally got accessories and can say it's DONE!

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rem1970, our vanity is the standard 21" deep x 54" wide. It was a bit tight, they had to remove the 4" marble backsplash otherwise the sink and faucet wouldn't fit. But I love the memoirs sink and it was worth it.

sparks72, our tile is not real marble, it's porcelain- american oleans catarina white tile. It's more expensive than subway but cheaper than real marble. I think to save money you can do subway in the shower with the porcelain tile mosiac band as an accent. It's not slippery at all b/c it's in a matte finish.

I hope this helpful!

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clipped on: 11.20.2011 at 10:05 pm    last updated on: 11.20.2011 at 10:05 pm

Mistakes that others can learn from

posted by: kellied on 11.10.2011 at 09:06 am in Kitchens Forum

I thought this would be a good topic to introduce, especially for those who are just getting started on their kitchen remodel.

My mistake when ordering the cabinet above the fridge was not taking into account what would be needed if we had to replace our current fridge. Cabinet was ordered for the height of what we have now and the majority of the fridges out there are half an inch too tall. Limits the selection of a replacement.

What mistakes have you made that others can learn from?

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clipped on: 11.10.2011 at 08:28 pm    last updated on: 11.10.2011 at 08:28 pm

RE: Is this chandelier size right? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: chemocurl on 10.28.2011 at 11:33 am in Lighting Forum

Taken from the link below:
One universally correct formula for determining the correct size light fixture for the Dining Room is to go with a fixture that has a diameter that is half the diameter (or width) of the tabletop. For instance, if the Dining Room table is a rectangle of 48" wide x 72" long, a chandelier that is approximately 24" (half of the 48" width of the table) in diameter would look fabulous. If the table is a 60" round diameter, a 30" diameter chandelier would be appropriate.

snip....

The height of the actual chandelier should be determined on the ceiling height of the room. Many Designers follow the rule of allowing 2 " 3" for each foot of a rooms height. Using this calculation, a room that has an 8' ceiling can use a chandelier that is approximately 20" to 24" in height. If the ceiling is 10 feet high, than a light fixture that is 25" to 30" would look more appropriate.

Sue

Here is a link that might be useful: How to Pick the Best Size Chandelier for your Room

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clipped on: 11.09.2011 at 08:34 pm    last updated on: 11.09.2011 at 08:34 pm

RE: Size of Recessed Lighting in Kitchen? Help Me!! (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: sombreuil_mongrel on 11.09.2011 at 03:33 pm in Kitchens Forum

6" cans with flood bulbs have the largest spread (the cone-shaped beam of light) of all. The higher the ceiling the spread grows as well, because the base of the cone grows proportional to the height given that the same angle is maintained.
Based on aesthetics alone, I used 5" cans in my ceiling, and pairs of 4" cans above the sinks. I'm very happy with the amount of light. The cans were placed no more than 6' apart with my 9'9" ceiling ht. When finalizing the exact placement, I tended to center the cans on centerlines of cabinets/appliances for consistence of shadowing.
Casey

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clipped on: 11.09.2011 at 07:47 pm    last updated on: 11.09.2011 at 07:47 pm

RE: Where do you put paper towels, wet dish towels, cutting board (Follow-Up #24)

posted by: firsthouse_mp on 04.14.2010 at 01:22 am in Kitchens Forum

stayn busy:
The dimensions of my papertowel cubby are 9" tall, 15" wide, 10" deep. The reason it is a bit tall is that the towel pole comes up and back about 2" to take it out.

There are a number of ways to deal with how the bar is held in there. The easiest that the cabinetmakers came up with is to use the "cup" holders that some curtain rods are hanging with. One side has a place for the rod to sit in, the other has a more open "cup". Rotate the cup so that the bar won't pull out when you pull on the roll. You need to push the bar up and back into the cubby to take out the bar--thus the deep 10".

Another way to mount the roll is to use a spring loaded roll bar like the kind for a toilet paper roll. Just stick a spring inside two hollow poles.

We also saw a few different paper towel holders at BB&B that could be mounted inside the cubby sideways. The easiest again being the ones that are on the wall and spring loaded. Make the cubby an inch or two wider to allow for the "arms" to release the holder.

Good Luck!

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Dimensions
clipped on: 11.08.2011 at 09:10 pm    last updated on: 11.08.2011 at 09:11 pm

RE: Show me your paper towel holders (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: beaglesdoitbetter on 11.07.2011 at 04:59 pm in Kitchens Forum

EcoBuzz as far as dimensions, in case it helps, my paper towel niche and dish cloth niche combined fit in a 24 inch cabinet. We actually put them above a dishwasher drawer on the one sink (next to the blue cabinet) because we have a full dishwasher on one side and a dish drawer on the other so there was no place for them to go but above the dishwasher drawer.

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clipped on: 11.07.2011 at 09:42 pm    last updated on: 11.07.2011 at 09:42 pm

RE: Island Electrical (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: plllog on 11.03.2011 at 03:08 pm in Kitchens Forum

You can always make room for your covered plugmold, using an extra end panel--on both ends for symmetry. That way you have enough thickness for the cover.

My advice is, if you're using plugmold, don't hide it per se. You can paint the housing, even woodgrain it to match, before it's wired, and use similar color recepticals (dark or light). If you tuck it right up under the edge of the countertop it'll be visible, but just kind of there. Maybe extend the counter a little.

For the garbage disposer switch, there's always an air switch. which you can get in all kinds of colors, so one can pretty much disappear. That's mounted where you like in the counter in the vicinity of the faucet. If you really don't want to see it, you can mount the switch inside the cabinetry under the sink. Lots of people do.

Not sure I understand your last question. If you mean you want to put light switches inside the drawer, I'm sure it's possible. Depending on your building code you might have to make them double switched runs with one switch by the door and one in the drawer, but you'd still be able to just use the island ones if you wanted.

The biggest problem I see is that I think you're using IKEA. You can customize the heck out of anything, and people do with IKEA, but some of these hidden things are easier to accomplish gracefully with wood, and with things that are built to the purpose. Before you design yourself into a corner, you'd best find a carpenter, electrician, or cabinet installer, who can do these customizations for you, and design them all ahead of time, on paper, so that you'll be able to know exactly what it'll be like and what materials you'll need. For instance, my sinks are hidden by aprons when you open the cabinets/drawers in my custom cabinets. The apron would provide a place to mount a switch. You don't get those with IKEA unless you add them. Same for your lightswitches. You'll need some kind of block inside the cabinet for to mount the boxes in, as well as access for the wiring to get up from the floor and into the cabinet.

Alternatively, you could put the main light switches on a wall, and have radio controlled remote switches in the drawer, so long as they'll work through the stone, metal and whatever of the island for the signal to get to the receiver.

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Garbage disposal switch
clipped on: 11.04.2011 at 09:13 pm    last updated on: 11.04.2011 at 09:13 pm

Who had these family rules?

posted by: muskokascp on 11.02.2011 at 10:10 am in Kitchens Forum

I saved the picture but not the OP. Duh. A girlfriend and I want to do this - just wondering how it was done. Paint? Rub on stencil?

Does anyone remember whose kitchen this is from?

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clipped on: 11.02.2011 at 05:57 pm    last updated on: 11.02.2011 at 05:58 pm

RE: wooden island overhang support (pic) (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: suzannesl on 11.01.2011 at 08:08 pm in Kitchens Forum

I think this is the kind of support breezy is talking about. These are flat metal supports. When the granite installers put them in, they routed a notch in the top of the cabinet the depth of the support so it is flush with the cabinet top and sits under the granite. This is our granite installers' favorite support; they call corbels "knee knockers." I would think they would work just as well on your lovely wood top, and you'll never see them. Also, I don't see a problem with the two wider boards.

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clipped on: 11.01.2011 at 09:14 pm    last updated on: 11.01.2011 at 09:14 pm

RE: Location of Microwave (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: buehl on 10.29.2011 at 03:55 pm in Kitchens Forum

We have a MW drawer and we're all very happy with it. We range in height from 5'10" (me - the shortest) to my DS at 6'6". None of us has had an issue with using it. No bending over to access food or to read/use controls. The inside is actually quite roomy...especially the newer ones (they're now tall enough for those tall cups of coffee). All my casserole dishes (round & rectangular and shallow & deep) fit in it without problems. The only thing that does not fit is the glass cover of my largest round casserole dish (b/c of the glass knob)...so I just use wax paper when I use that particular dish (or turn the cover upside down if the "food height" allows)

Here are some recent (and one not so recent) threads that discuss MW drawers:

Thread (2010 & probably the most useful): Microwave Drawer Pros and Cons?

Thread: Who has a microwave drawer?

Thread: Sharp drawer microwave - do thy fit a 10' dinner plate?

Thread: undercounter microwaves - pics please?

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clipped on: 10.30.2011 at 11:20 pm    last updated on: 10.30.2011 at 11:20 pm

RE: Wood Countertops: Thoughts, Suggestions, Photos? (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: jillandmatt on 10.29.2011 at 08:48 am in Kitchens Forum

We did walnut on the island and I stained it first, and am in the process of finishing it with waterlox. We purchased the top from Craft Art's on-line DIY shop.
Here's a pic:
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clipped on: 10.29.2011 at 01:18 pm    last updated on: 10.29.2011 at 01:18 pm

RE: Anyone have a haint blue porch ceiling? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: carterinms on 06.22.2009 at 06:12 pm in Porches & Decks Forum

I don't have a picture yet, but I just got off the phone with a local lumber yard, inquiring about Azek beadboard - the salesman recommended a new product by HB&G Columns, which comes in a sky blue. He's going to price it tomorrow and check availability, but thinks it will be equivalent in cost to the Azek (which we would need to paint).

Here is a link that might be useful: Haint Blue Porch Ceiling

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Website
clipped on: 10.26.2011 at 10:57 pm    last updated on: 10.26.2011 at 10:57 pm

Anyone have a haint blue porch ceiling?

posted by: slateberry51 on 12.14.2008 at 09:04 am in Porches & Decks Forum

I'd like to. Let's start a thread with photos, color choices, etc.

I was browsing in the kitchens forum of all places, where I stumbled on a link to a victorian Christmas porch tour, and there was a porch with a blue ceiling with a bit of gloss to it. Interesting; I've been looking for a place to use a glossy finish, and the gloss might make for a more watery blue effect.

Also, if anyone has a deeper blue or more violet-azure than the typical aqua you see, I'd love pics. I am leaning that way, because if you look at the sky, it's more toward violet than green. Impossible to replicate in paint, but we can have fun trying.

Here is the ceiling with a bit of gloss to it:

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Here is a link to a short thread on the home decorating forum. I think it makes sense to have a thread going here on the porch forum as well.

Here is a link that might be useful: Haint Blue Porch Ceilings on Home Decorating Forum

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clipped on: 10.26.2011 at 10:51 pm    last updated on: 10.26.2011 at 10:51 pm

RE: dream farmhouse kitchen - link to pictures and thanks! (Follow-Up #42)

posted by: caoh on 08.18.2010 at 11:15 am in Kitchens Forum

muskokascp - dish drawers are 25" wide and 21" deep. they do hold a lot (24 large and small dishes; 24 pasta and regular bowls - also a few small/rice bowls to boot in each). but they also hold a lot because the plates aren't so huge. a lot of plates these days are enormous.

sink footpedal is tapmaster - link here:

tapmaster foot pedal

though there's a cool touch-activated kitchen faucet by delta:

delta pilar faucet

i didn't know about it until late in my kitchen planning. but it actually would have been a disaster if i'd gotten it, as my 1 year old is always climbing on the island and trying to turn on the prep sink faucet (and she can't, because it's foot activated! haha).

kitchen island overhang is 13" and never seems to be a problem, even for adults.

hope that helps! good luck.

cheers,
caoh

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Dish drawer info
clipped on: 10.25.2011 at 08:55 pm    last updated on: 10.25.2011 at 08:55 pm

RE: dream farmhouse kitchen - link to pictures and thanks! (Follow-Up #13)

posted by: caoh on 08.13.2010 at 09:46 am in Kitchens Forum

hee, i missed you guys! haven't been on since we completed house a year ago. such great people and energy here. thanks for all the comments. let's see...

1. yes, i love my older-version fp ovens. used to have a little dacor duel fuel range, and the darned electric control panel with touch buttons repeatedly died - at which point i couldn't turn on the oven until i got it fixed. so i really wanted dials again - even though it's still an electric control, i figured eliminating the touch controls was one less thing to go wrong. read positive reviews here about these fp ovens that had been discontinued. found an ebay appliance seller that was selling closeout ovens at a great price. so it worked out all around.

2. i do love the windows here! this kitchen is part of a great room that incorporates an 1860s timberframe. the old wood is gorgeous but can be dark (also since we have medium-dark pine floors), so we overloaded the room with windows to compensate. the downside (aside from cleaning, which we like to ignore, haha) is that this room is hard to heat and cool effectively. and of course windows are really expensive. but we spend all our time in here, and the light is everything.

3. yes, that is soapstone under the sink. it's called a drip ledge, and of course i read about it here (i think you also see it in some of those gorgeous christopher peacock kitchens). more for looks than anything, but it's supposed to catch drips from hitting your lower cabinetry.

i owe you guys pictures of the rest of the room and out the window! leaving town to visit prego friend, but will do it next week.

cheers,
caoh

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Drip ledge
clipped on: 10.25.2011 at 08:50 pm    last updated on: 10.25.2011 at 08:50 pm

RE: If you feel like a Benjamin Moore White pro...... (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: wi-sailorgirl on 02.04.2010 at 11:38 pm in Home Decorating Forum

The timing of this post is uncanny. I've been stewing over whites forever. Today I had a color consultation during which we went over all kinds of whites and what would be best in my kitchen and on the trim throughout the house.

Here's what I can tell you, but first let me assure you I am no expert at color, so I'm just repeating what I've been told by people who are more experienced than I or that I've noticed myself.

White, I believe is basically white base. Zero color added in. Simply white is different. I found it to be a tad "warmer."

White Dove, which I think is what is currently on my kitchen cabinets (they came with the house but that's my best guess on a color match) definitely has a gray undertone in it. To me, at least.

Cloud White to me is again on the grayer side (vs. white). At the bottom is a link to a post about Cloud White (and other whites).

Prior to this color consult, I picked Cotton Balls. To me it looked creamy and not gray (which I didn't want). Then I painted some stuff with it and it started looking pretty stark.

Here's a picture where you can see the difference. Cotton Balls is on the right, the original color (probably White Dove) is on the left).

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So it was suggested to me that I might want to look at Acadia White. But when I look at that color I see cream and really I'm looking for warm white if there is such a thing. I want it to read white when you look at it, but not EEK! WHITE! if you know what I mean.

So then I saw Mascarpone and there happened to be a premixed sample available. To me, Mascarpone looks a.) warm and b.) sort of the mid-point between a Cloud White type color and Acadia White. I've done some samples in the kitchen tonight and I quite like it, but I'll have to wait until daylight to see what it really looks like, but I'm very hopeful.

Good luck! I'm finding whites to be the most frustrating and difficult colors to pick out.

Here is a link that might be useful: Trim colors ... not always Cloud White

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clipped on: 10.23.2011 at 10:03 pm    last updated on: 10.23.2011 at 10:03 pm

RE: Guest bedroom / mud room layout advice (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: km34567 on 03.03.2011 at 08:55 am in Building a Home Forum

You're welcome. I've learned so much from Garden webbers that I'm happy to have helped someone else.

I do like your new hybrid layout. As for sizes, take a tape measure and recreate the size your are considering. For example conside the 10'3'' bedroom to an actual bedroom you have now and see how it feels. It also depends on the size bed you will place in there. 10' is a bit tight but again if not used often then maybe it can do. Will your parents visit or move in? As for mudroom bench, we are having benches built into the top of the cubbies so it accomplishes 2 things in one. See pic one of the link attached.

Also a list my husband complied for mudroom things to consider. (He complied a list based on research of what other people said, not necessarily need to accomodate everything).

lower hook for kids
40 sq feet minimum
waterproof paint
thick hooks for winter coats
thin hooks for smaller stuff
window if possible
bench
drop station
open shelves forshoes
space for guest shoes
water resistent flooring
mirror?
waste can
rough in texture tiles to prevent slipping
closet/storage?? when coats not in use

Hope it helps and Good luck!

Here is a link that might be useful: mudroom cubby ideas

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clipped on: 10.23.2011 at 08:52 pm    last updated on: 10.23.2011 at 08:52 pm

RE: Show Me Your Mud Room, Please! (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: kateskouros on 11.23.2010 at 12:09 am in Building a Home Forum

mine isn't finished yet, and i've posted it already but in case you haven't seen it i'll post it again. the cubbies take up approx 9'.5" of wall space. the top storage spaces will have doors. the space with the one basket will be open on all four cubbies and we'll have long doors to hide the mess. the bottom will have two drawers for shoes.
there is a closet to the right which houses my stackable bosch vision 500s. directly across is a floor to ceiling pantry (sorry, no pic). i didn't want to take up space in my kitchen for a walk in pantry so this was my solution. the mudroom measures 13 x 10, the built ins will be stained. it's very roomy and i love the additional storage it affords. i have a gorgeous moravian star pendant for this room that i'm dying to hang. hopefully this week! i'll take more shots when it's done.
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mudroomlockers
18" wide, 19" deep seat with separator at 12" depth ... cubbies are 51" tall above drawer area/seat with cabs above to the ceiling
Tags: Mudroom Lockers
clipped on: 10.22.2011 at 11:45 pm    last updated on: 10.22.2011 at 11:45 pm

RE: To help others - Things I would do different and things i lov (Follow-Up #19)

posted by: mitri89 on 08.19.2010 at 06:28 pm in Building a Home Forum

We've been in for 4 1/2 months now and overall are very happy with how our new home turned out.

Things I love:

Wood floors - Ours are 4" white oak, site finished in a medium stain color, satin finish(not shiny).

Dover white laquer painted woodwork, mouldings, and cabinetry. We have stained cabinets in a couple of bathrooms, and I'm glad I didn't go stained in the kitchen and rest of the house. The stained acts like a dust magnet and washes out the paint color on the walls. But most of all, white wood against painted walls and hardwood floors just makes me happy.:-)

Love my kitchen. Thank you kitchen forum! Definitely pay a visit over there if you're just getting started.
-It turned out beautiful(white custom cabs, arched hood, wood floors)
-Lots of well placed lighting all on dimmers
-Functional, large layout with specific work zones
-Danze faucets and pot filler
-Silgranit sinks(love the big single basin and the round prep!)
-Bosch ovens
-Dacor 36" gas cooktop
-Kitchenaid DW and Fridge
-Giallo Ornamental granite
-Microwave built into the island
-Trash pullout
-Tons of deep drawers instead of cabinet doors
-Step in pantry

Smart Strand carpet - feels and looks great - LOVE IT!!!

Love our huge paved, curvy driveway and walkways. Lots of room for the kids to ride bikes, scooters, and play basketball.

Huge covered porches front and back

Exercise room off of master for treadmill and weights

Walk in attic access from upstairs

Huge bonus room upstairs

Big laundry room with 2 washer and 2 dryer hookups, quartz folding countertop, deep stainless sink, and plenty of storage.

Love that the dryers vent right outside, not up through walls and then to the roof like our last house. Makes cleaning the duct a huge pain and cuts down on effiency.

Sound system with speakers throughout and on back porch

Paint colors - Tobacco Road(main), Dover White(woodwork)

Lots of lighting throughout almost all on dimmers

Schlage door hardware and deadbolts

Love being out in the country on a little land with tons of trees and a pond. Peaceful and lots of room for the kids to play and explore.

Things I'd do differently -
Insulate wall where upstairs bath plumbing runs downstairs for sound reduction.

Put in sprinkler system - On the list to do next spring

Wish we would've upgraded to satin or eggshell paint in the bonus and kids rooms. Went with flat to save money figuring we could always repaint later.

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clipped on: 10.22.2011 at 11:29 pm    last updated on: 10.22.2011 at 11:29 pm

RE: To help others - Things I would do different and things i lov (Follow-Up #17)

posted by: angela12345 on 08.16.2010 at 01:09 am in Building a Home Forum

Here are links to some of the earlier threads . . .

http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/build/msg0708180218905.html - unique/favorite features in your build....

http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/build/msg051803107471.html - Things you couldn't live without or wish you had added

http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/build/msg012331272427.html - What things did you find needed adjusting or changed?

http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/build/msg052337148911.html - is there anything you wish you had done

http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/build/msg1011400927581.html - What about your new build makes your life easier; what doesn't ?

http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/build/msg0913570232282.html - Brands/Products That I'd Use Again

http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/build/msg0321442732113.html - Share your best sites for deals on supplies!

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clipped on: 10.22.2011 at 11:25 pm    last updated on: 10.22.2011 at 11:26 pm

RE: Can Anyone Share Pics of Their Cloud White Cabinets? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: oldhouse1 on 09.08.2011 at 02:37 pm in Kitchens Forum

gilmoregirl, We have just finished our Cloud White kitchen and will soon be posting pictures. As I am technically challenged I can't post at the moment but will try to do so soon (with the help of one my kids) pathetic I know. I love Cloud White. I too agonized over what colour to use fearing that CW would be too stark. It is the go to colour for trim and cabinetry by many of the designers in Canada. I decided I didn't want to use it because of that. I usually don't like trends. After trying many whites, off whites and creams I decided I liked it the best. I was so surprised at how warm it really is without being to yellow or gray as many of the whites/off whites are. Our tongue and groove ceiling, beadboard and cabinets are all painted CW. I'll try to post soon.

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Cloud white paint
clipped on: 10.20.2011 at 10:21 am    last updated on: 10.20.2011 at 10:22 am

RE: I need inspriation pictures for a white kitchen with granite (Follow-Up #13)

posted by: boxerpups on 09.30.2011 at 07:02 pm in Kitchens Forum

Here are a few ideas. I hope they help.
~boxerpups


New Venetian Gold
nvg

NVG
new venetian gold

Delicatus
Delicatus

Costa Esmeralda
Costa E

Giallo Ornamental
Giallo

Virginia Jet Mist (my kitchen with dark stained oak floors)
Seam

Jet Mist
Jet Mist

Blue Pearl
Blue Pearl

Golden Beaches
Golden Beaches

Juparena Rustica
Juparena Rustica

Kashmir White
Kashmir White

Santa Cecilia
Santa Cec

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clipped on: 10.19.2011 at 09:54 pm    last updated on: 10.19.2011 at 09:55 pm

RE: I need inspriation pictures for a white kitchen with granite (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: jillandmatt on 09.30.2011 at 11:30 am in Kitchens Forum

We have giollo ornamental (new venitian gold). It is a "less" expensive granite. I like it with white because it has a lot of white in it, but also beiges, grays, brown... I also loved bianco antico, but it was about an $1800 upcharge from the GO.

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clipped on: 10.19.2011 at 09:51 pm    last updated on: 10.19.2011 at 09:52 pm

RE: Great blog entry about off-white paint (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: littlesmokie on 02.22.2011 at 11:27 pm in Kitchens Forum

I will give this piece of advice to people agonizing over "which white": see what your cabinet interior color options are. This should have been my starting point-I know this now-because it has quickly narrowed down what had been an overwhelming # of choices.

Yesterday I got a sample of the melamine cabinet interior and neither of my top choices work with it. (SW Antique White is too dark and my favorite "neutral" white BM Grand Teton White looked green next to the shelf)

So I hauled my melamine shelf down to the Ben Moore store and told the design consultant I wanted off-white cabinets that did not look new, but that looked old. I told her I did NOT want them to read white. The designer pulled these colors to coordinate with the melamine:

Linen White (84.4)
Navajo White (81.1)
Deserted Island (77) (which apparently used to be called "Sandy Shores" in another collection?)
Gentle Cream (73.5)

So now that I have these samples home, Gentle Cream & Deserted Island both seem a bit dark, Linen White seems a bit light, and in natural light Navajo White seems a bit... gray?

I think I'm down to Linen White Or Navajo White:

Linen White-a classic "go-to" color I think it would be a great versatile trim color that keep all wall color options open.

Navajo White-takes on a gray? green? (I'm not an expert, but it reads "cool") tone in natural light, but under incandescent looks great. (And if we decided to go with the BM oil based satin impervo, the Navajo White may "amber out/yellow" a bit to just the perfect shade...)

I also brought home 2 samples I picked: BM Ivory Tusk (87) which looked perfect in the store, but too bright/yellow in artificial light and Calming Cream (85.7) which also looks too yellow. (From reading up on LRV, I also learned that off whites with yellow undertones can read "brighter" than a similar off white shade with a different undertone.

I should have looked up the LRV values before I bought these samples-but I now know that colors in the upper 80's are waay too light for me! (LRV: Generally higher #'s=light, lower #'s=darker) For reference the popular Marscapone (92.25) White Dove (90), Cloud White (87.1) and Acadia White (85)

Here's the worst-or best-part: Farrow & Ball White Tie also looks very, very good with our melamine shelf. (F&B Pointing -very similar to Ben Moore Marscapone actually- also looks good but is definitely too light.)

I'd always planned Ben Moore for price/durability, but I am now seriously considering using Farrow & Ball White Tie for cabinets/trim. For the whole house! So luscious and I don't think another vendor can "match" it accurately. But the price-yikes! Also I wonder if using full spectrum paint on the cabinets/trim will make "regular" Ben Moore/Sherwin Williams (non full spectrum) wall colors look flat and lifeless. I like F&B but many of their colors have a gray? undertone to them and I didn't want to do the whole house with these fancy paints, just a few special rooms like the master bath and bedroom or maybe the powder room.

PS kathc-yes I'm in Portland Oregon and feel fortunate it's just a 10 min drive for those F&B samples. Honestly if I couldn't get it locally I would never have considered it. (hmm, is that a good or bad thing?-LOL)

macybaby-that is a really good tip to NOT look at the colors together, they do influence each other! Looking at our choices separately with the melamine & countertop, each one went well enough. But when I looked at the cabinet colors against each other, each potential cabinet color started looking too yellow/gray/green compared to each another, which doesn't help get me to the one color I need for the cabinets. So, thanks for the reminder not to do that. :)

Well I hope all my ramblings here helps someone.

Where is everyone else with their perfect off white color searches?

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clipped on: 10.19.2011 at 09:23 pm    last updated on: 10.19.2011 at 09:23 pm

RE: Great blog entry about off-white paint (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: teaforwendy on 02.13.2011 at 11:36 pm in Kitchens Forum

kathec, I have SW Westhighland White in a lake cabin and used it as a trim color in my aunt's house before we sold it -- it is a wonderful white. I love it. I haven't found the equivalent BM white -- but we have BM soft chamois in our house and I HATE it. However, it is a 1920's colonial with tons of trim and redoing all of it - windows, doors, etc. is so daunting -- esp with oil base. DH and I are discussing b/c we are out of the house due to a fire and the ins company will repaint a portion of the trim as part of the restoration, so THANK YOU for this post. I would love to change my trim color and we use BM matte on our walls.

Mostly I wanted to chime in that SW Westhighland White is my all time fave trim color. We used it with SW croissant as wall color in both houses and have had many copy cats.

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clipped on: 10.19.2011 at 09:22 pm    last updated on: 10.19.2011 at 09:22 pm

RE: Need help with BM white paint for kitchen cabinets + need adv (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: littlesmokie on 08.13.2011 at 05:45 pm in Kitchens Forum

First, for some reason, I can't enlarge your pics and I cannot see them well. It looks (I can't be sure) that your floor has cool undertones and your proposed countertop has warm undertones. I find it more pleasing to have the same undertones, so since your floors are in, I might select a different countertop.

The "Lagos Blue" caesarstone (which I think is supposed to resemble limestone) is a real chameleon in that collection to me, it should have cool undertones but still manages to look very warm. Did you look at that one? Another idea is "Cinder" which is a medium toned (with no speckles or sparkles) gray that somewhat resembles concrete. I think "Pebble" is the light gray that a friend used and it looks very good in her white ("White Glove" by Miller paint) kitchen.

Do YOU love the green accent & want to lock yourself into it? Countertop and tile are difficult to change. Paint and accessories are not :)

It concerns me you said you "originally wanted a classic white kitchen." If this is what you want, stick to it! That is about the most classic backdrop to add any kind of accessories/warmth/colors you want-you can change things seasonally or every few years if you get tired of something.

RE: BM whites. There are many previous threads about this if you do a search. It is an extremely hard decision since there are 110 BM white/off whites! Too many choices=too overwhelming. What exposure is your room/how much light do you get?

I wanted a "classic but warm white" for my master bath. In my space (southwest exposure) "White Dove" which is a very popular white (I've never heard anyone regret selecting it anyway) but it was too gray in my space. We chose "Cotton Balls".

I think the best warm white in the Benjamin Moore collection is "Mascarpone," but in our bath-- against a sea of whiter subway tile everywhere--you could see the yellow undertones so it didn't look right. But I love that color.

That Colour me Happy blog is really interesting and I know one of her articles is basically "Don't choose Cloud White!", but that is another Ben Moore white that is used, all-the-time, because it goes with everything.

Your light makes a HUGE difference in how a color will look, so bring home some samples and try them in your space with your floors and countertop samples.

The biggest mistake I made was trying to select a color too soon, before I had the other elements in the room. Once I did, the right colors started selecting themselves because some of my top choices in the paint store just didn't "go."

I really want to reassure you, after OBSESSING about this for a year+ myself, you really can't go that wrong with your white. If you get your cabs painted and you're afraid they're too gray/yellow or whatever, you can always counteract with different lightbulbs or wall color or accessories to pull things together and make it all look ok. :)

PS I'm going to link one thread I remembered, it's a lot about "off white" paints, but there's some helpful links in here about choosing your white.

Here is a link that might be useful: Great blog entry about off white paint

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clipped on: 10.19.2011 at 09:09 pm    last updated on: 10.19.2011 at 09:09 pm

Pic of espresso cabinet, carrera, chrome fixtures, memoirs sink

posted by: pps7 on 08.03.2010 at 04:27 pm in Bathrooms Forum

I can't find the thread where someone was looking at all these components. Here they are together:

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Trim and drywall painted to mimic beadboard
clipped on: 10.19.2011 at 08:41 pm    last updated on: 10.19.2011 at 08:42 pm

RE: show me your rectangular vanity sinks (Follow-Up #20)

posted by: pps7 on 06.23.2011 at 10:44 am in Bathrooms Forum

I love our memoirs sink. I think you will be happy with that choice.

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clipped on: 10.19.2011 at 08:38 pm    last updated on: 10.19.2011 at 08:38 pm

Which white?

posted by: carters5 on 10.04.2011 at 06:00 pm in Kitchens Forum

I know there are a TON of whites, however, out of these, and taking indirect lighting and quite a lot of it into consideration, which have you used that are not too stark or too cream for painting kitchen and all cabinets in my home? But soft and inviting? Thanks!

Benjamin Moore: Cloud White, Simply White, Ballet White, White Dove, White Linen and Designer White.

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clipped on: 10.19.2011 at 08:13 pm    last updated on: 10.19.2011 at 08:13 pm

RE: My Finished Kitchen (Follow-Up #14)

posted by: lisa_a on 10.10.2011 at 04:15 pm in Kitchens Forum

I hope you don't mind but I just had to post your images in this thread. I'm sure they are others like me who like to scroll up and down comparing views and that's hard to do when visiting a photos sharing site.

AIMPort's before kitchen:
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And (drum roll) the stunning AFTER!

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Can I just say WOW! What a transformation! I can't imagine working in that tiny cramped space that was your "before" kitchen. And who wouldn't want to work in your light-filled, spacious "after" kitchen! I love the bookcases tucked into the end of your island and the window seat with storage by the back door.

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Murray feiss pendants glaze on cab's
clipped on: 10.19.2011 at 09:27 am    last updated on: 10.19.2011 at 09:29 am

Another Garden Web Inspired Finished Kitchen ( Lots of Pics)

posted by: LRy511 on 09.05.2011 at 04:42 pm in Kitchens Forum

My new kitchen makes me smile. I have to thank everyone at the Garden Web Kitchen Forum for giving me wonderful, practical ideas to help create my new kitchen. I also have to thank my DH for allowing me to do what I wanted to do in this kitchen, mainly white cabinets.

I have lived in this house for 13 years and always knew one day we would (God willing) renovate the kitchen. At first I wanted to change everything as far as layout, however, as time went on I discovered the layout really worked well and all I need to do was tweak a few areas. I needed to create a larger prep zone; I needed the garbage bin to by my prep zone and not half way across the kitchen. I also needed move the microwave away from the range at the request of my four children. I switched the refrigerator and wall oven to shrink the work triangle. My DH and I debated whether to put in a narrow island/ table or keep our kitchen table. We decided the space would be too small for an island and I liked the family sitting around the table and talking to one another and not seated bar style.

Many thanks to the Garden Web for giving me the impetus to ask if we could raise an obtrusive beam (left over from a 1985 renovation) into the ceiling. This beam caused the 6" vent pipe to run through several cabinets severely limiting my storage space. All gone now! This alone helped to create more storage space .We also expanded the opening into the family room and eliminated a door into the dining room and upgraded the windows to tilt-ins.


Appliances:
Range: Electrolux Induction Cooktop Range with second oven.
Wall oven: Electrolux single wall oven
Refrigerator: Kitchen Aid Architect II French Door Refrigerator (KFCS22EVMS4) Love the water feature inside!
Dishwasher: Kitchen Aid KUDE40FXPA panel ready. And Yes! you can integrate a Kitchen Aid if you know up front you need to allow for an extra �" in length. My CG put an extra �" sheet of sheet rock on the wall and cut out the space for the dishwasher. We had plenty of room to accommodate the Kitchen Aid and make it look integrated.
Microwave: GE Monogram ZEM200SF
Hood: Broan Elite Rangemaster Power Pack RMP17004
Cabinets: Dura Supreme: Crestwood series
Arcadia Classic, Maple perimeter in classic white
Arcadia Classic, Cherry Hutch peninsula
Granite: New Venetian Gold
Hardware: Amerock 96mm Westerly Pulls in Satin Nickel
Amerock Revitalize Knobs in Satin Nickel
Sink: Franke Orca sink, Love,Love,Love!!!
Faucet: Kohler K-690 Vinnata in polished chrome
Lotion Dispenser: Kohler Fairfax collection
Backsplash: Sonoma Tile; market collection, Ashbury Series in Mojave ( 4x4, subway, bead liner and moulding) also, Tumbled Honey onyx .
Under cabinet Lighting: Utilitech LED under cabinet lights
Flooring: Verde1999, Moonstone 20 x 20 porcelain tiles.
Charging Drawer
Wall Color: BM 1639 Windy Sky

Before:
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After:
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After:
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message center:
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charging drawer:
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After:
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eating area:
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After:
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Future Roman Shade Fabric for windows:
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Orca Sink:
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love the lowered outlets:
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Drawers for pots:
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New Floor:
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Sam loves it too!
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granite
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integrated dishwasher:
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Thank You looking at our pictures!

NOTES:

Backsplash tile and pattern
clipped on: 10.19.2011 at 09:21 am    last updated on: 10.19.2011 at 09:22 am

RE: Recommend your kitchen paint color (with pics!) (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: breezygirl on 08.16.2011 at 02:50 am in Kitchens Forum

BM Revere Pewter and Edgecomg Gray are two very nice, neutral greiges that I've come across fairly often here. Revere Pewter is a strong contender for me at this point. Its more gray. Both are soothing in my house and light.

I'm also diggin' on my test board of Balboa Mist. Another chameleon greige.

It seems like many of us get schocked about how early the painting is done. I also thought that wall color was close to last and found out differently. I wish someone had told me I needed to get a move on with paint earlier!

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clipped on: 10.19.2011 at 06:31 am    last updated on: 10.19.2011 at 06:31 am

RE: Recommend your kitchen paint color (with pics!) (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: joan2121 on 08.15.2011 at 05:52 pm in Kitchens Forum

I love the color of our kitchen. It is a a khaki color-Benjamin Moore Bennington Grey
Here is a picture of our kitchen, the cabinets are off white. Not much of the paint color shows, but I hope you can get the idea.

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Bennington grey
clipped on: 10.19.2011 at 06:29 am    last updated on: 10.19.2011 at 06:29 am

RE: mascarpone or acadia cabinets need matching subway tile (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: bethcw on 08.12.2011 at 11:11 am in Kitchens Forum

I don't have a backsplash yet, but wanted to chime in to let you know that I absolutely ADORE my BM Marscapone cabinetry. It is a GORGEOUS soft white. Not too yellow, not too stark. I am absolutely thrilled. Our counters are leathered nevada matrix (so also dark) an dour floors are a copper/black/gray faux slate porcelain tile.

Beth

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clipped on: 10.18.2011 at 10:54 pm    last updated on: 10.18.2011 at 10:54 pm

Thynes' Finished Kitchen

posted by: thynes on 10.18.2011 at 10:11 pm in Kitchens Forum

18 months after we began, it's nice to be able to finally share our finished kitchen with you folks!

Early 2010 we decided to sell our brand new home and buy a 40 year old home in an established neighborhood. The home was lovely, had good bones, but needed much work so we moved in with the in-laws while an entire home reno was completed. Well, we moved in late last year (made it in for Christmas!), then spent the winter searching for backsplash, ordering samples and catalogues, buying tiles, returning tiles, putting backsplash up, taking backsplash down (!), and completing the kitchen in time to spend the summer re-landscaping the entire 1/3 acre property. Now that things have settled down I've finally taken the time to take a few proper snaps of the finished product!

Some background: The house was a larger executive style but with a disproportionately small kitchen (I think common for its vintage), so we removed a load bearing wall and utilized an adjacent family room as additional kitchen space. The house has rear southern exposure yet the original kitchen had no windows exposed to the south (?), and we were determined to correct that. To boot, we live in the foggiest neighborhood of the snowiest, foggiest, windiest city in Canada... Winters are long, spring is nonexistent, and summers are short... so bright was important!

My wife and I did all the design work ourselves. Being an engineer, I took the function (structural modifications, materials, layout, ergonomics, appliances, gadgets, etc) while she took the form (colors, finishes, fixtures, fabrics, etc). I discovered the GW Appliances Forum while researching appliances and quickly found my way here to Kitchens. By then the fundamentals had been largely settled (the L-shape was unavoidable, sink wall without uppers were a must, separate coffee/beverage station and eating area were musts, as were cream colored cabinets, yellow walls, and hardwood floors) but I think I spent hundreds of hours reading through the archives here and learning new things (and even occasionally posting..!). It was here that I learned about the importance of zones and proper aisle widths. It was here that I learned of induction cooktops, roll out pantries, pull out pantries, dish storage in drawers, vertical tray storage, soft closures, and firsthouse_mp's paper towel cubby (which I have so shamelessly stolen!). It was here that I learned we weren't alone in spending more time finding the perfect backsplash than it took to build the actual kitchen!

So how did it turn out? It could be considered a bit of an eclectic mix of modern (crystal pendants, mirrored induction cooktop, metallic glass backsplash), traditional (5 panel doors, ogee edged countertops) and rustic/country (floral fabric, hand scraped floors, stained Amish table), but we love it. It works like a charm and it's easily our favorite room in the house. Thanks to everyone for your help and I hope readers in the future can gain as much inspiration from this posting as I have from those who've posted before me.

First the details:

Double Ovens - Miele H4892BP2
Induction Cooktop - Thermador CIT365GM
Vent Hood - 36" Ancona Rapido Chef
Warming Drawer - Jenn-Air paneled
Dishwasher - Miele Optima G2472SCSF
Refrigerator - KitchenAid 72" CD KFCS22EVMS
Microwave - KitchenAid Undercounter Convection KBHS179SSS
Beverage Center - KitchenAid KBCS24RSSS
Standup Freezer (in mudroom) - Kenmore Elite Commercial SS
Faucets - Main Grohe Ladylux3 32226, Beverage Station Grohe Ladylux3 32283
Sinks - Main Houzer MS-3210SR-1, Beverage Station Houzer CS-1607-1
Cabinets - Custom 5 panel mitred in BM OC-88 Indian White, made by local cabinet maker
Hardware - Richelieu oil rubbed bronze knobs/pulls, Blum soft closures on doors and drawers, Richelieu vertical lift hinge for appliance garage
Counters perimeter - Zodiac Quartz in Giallo Michelangelo
Counter island - Zodiac Quartz in Saddle Brown
Backsplash Cooktop Wall - Saltillo Imports Metallic Glass 2x4 Subway
Backsplash Elsewhere - Crema Marfil Polished Marble 2x4 Subway
Island Pendant - Trillium by Glow Lighting with Danube crystal
Table pendant - Avalon by Glow Lighting with Danube crystal
Flooring - Kraus Madeira Collection 5" hand scraped oak in Golden Saddle finish
Simply Amish 48" round table, Loft II single pedestal, maple
Simply Amish chairs, Urbandale II, maple, side chairs painted Antique White, desk chair stained
Blinds - Robert Allen @ Home in Sperling Geranium
Wall Paint - BM CC-190 Summer Harvest

Before:

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During (notice the LVL beam install and the temporary walls supporting the entire second floor, needless to say my wife was nervous at this point..!!):

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After:

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And finally, Daddy's Little Helper. This is what happens when a 4 year old discovers that Daddy's camera has a remote control. One of many self portraits...!!

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Thanks for viewing!

NOTES:

Cabinet paint color and Bev ctr by table
clipped on: 10.18.2011 at 10:18 pm    last updated on: 10.18.2011 at 10:19 pm

RE: How to choose a size for marble subway tiles for wall in kitc (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: milz50 on 10.17.2011 at 05:30 pm in Building a Home Forum

I have a wall with 3x6 subway tile and 10 foot ceilings. Here's a picture. Let me know if you'd like a picture from head on (no angle) and I can take one and post it.

From decorated

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clipped on: 10.18.2011 at 12:50 pm    last updated on: 10.18.2011 at 12:50 pm

RE: Refrigerator dilemma (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: akchicago on 10.13.2011 at 06:52 pm in Kitchens Forum

I agree with LWO. Plus, think about re-sale - will future buyers want a kitchen with a fridge without a full freezer?

But, why do you say a 42-48" fridge is $6000-7000? Though it is true that you won't find one for $3000. There is a 42" GE Profile that sells for $4100 for the panel-ready (i.e. you would have to panel it), and $5000 in stainless steel. The Liebherr 48" SBS20H0 costs about $4600. The 48" GE Profile sells for $4500 (panel-ready) or $5300 (stainless doors). Go to the AJMadison website where you can sort for 42-48" fridges, and then sort by price.

I think you should explain why you've budgeted for an architect to design your kitchen (usually pretty pricey), but have not budgeted for the sort of fridge that an architect's plan would call for. Are you spending a lot on cabinetry? You could perhaps cut there. If you are, say adding corbels, or fancy trim, or glazing, you could save thousands on foregoing those cosmetic additions, and put the money toward the appliances. What are you spending on a range or ovens? On a hood?

There was a recent discussion about an expensive kitchen that sadly did not devote much budget to appliances. But isn't a kitchen for cooking and storing food?

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clipped on: 10.14.2011 at 09:24 am    last updated on: 10.14.2011 at 09:24 am

RE: Shopping for Pendants...show me yours.... (Follow-Up #29)

posted by: jgs7691 on 10.14.2011 at 08:18 am in Kitchens Forum

We went with the Murray Feiss Parker Place with opaque white glass and brushed nickel (P1144)-- and we love love love them! I think I paid $145 each at a local lighting shop, and it was well worth the extra bling they added to the kitchen (particularly considering the timeless look and the long life-expectancy of lighting fixtures.)

We used two over the island and one over the sink.

Hope that helps!

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Here is a link that might be useful: Murray Feiss P1144

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clipped on: 10.14.2011 at 09:18 am    last updated on: 10.14.2011 at 09:18 am

RE: How do you like your decorative mirrors used as vanity mirror (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: nini804 on 10.12.2011 at 09:59 pm in Building a Home Forum

Ugh...in our recently completed house this was a real pain. In the children's baths we had the carpenters frame the mirrors with the 4" casing we used for the doors and windows. The mirrors were actually attached with glue and also held in by the molding. In the master...I wanted something "dressier" plus I wanted the sconces to be in the mirror at eye level. So they actually did this gorgeous plate mirror with three holes cut to fit the two single and one double sconce, plus I had them do a thick bevel around it. It really looks lovely, and the fabricator definitely said no clips...he said glueing would definitely be better with such a large mirror. The lights also provide additional security. I did put a decorative mirror in my powder...it is just hung on picture hanging wire. I don't worry about it...it is a powder room and just gets light use.

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clipped on: 10.14.2011 at 06:30 am    last updated on: 10.14.2011 at 06:31 am

RE: How do you like your decorative mirrors used as vanity mirror (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: carpecattus on 10.12.2011 at 06:21 pm in Building a Home Forum

One night, while brushing my teeth in front of our large plate mirror, I noticed it looked a little off. On closer inspection I realized one of the clips had come away from the wall and the whole mirror was on the verge of coming off the wall! The clips had been installed with heavy duty plastic anchors, and the weight of the mirror over time had caused the drywall to eventually give way.

We ended up remodeling the bathroom and installed a large, framed mirror using a heavy duty cleat hanger (Hangman is one brand) which is perfect. The cleat hanger is two long pieces of metal, one of which is attached to the wall; if the mirror is less than 16" wide I recommend trying to have at least one screw in a stud and use toggle bolts for the other screws. The other piece of metal is attached to the frame of the mirror. The two pieces of metal hook onto each other to securely attach the mirror to the wall. (We used this same type of cleat hanger to attach a custom stainless steel backsplash over our range in our kitchen; we had stainless steel wrapped around a large piece of plywood to add depth and dimension to the backsplash.)

When we remodeled our second bathroom, we decided to keep the plate mirror, but used extra clips and toggle bolts as needed to make certain it wasn't going anywhere!

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clipped on: 10.14.2011 at 06:29 am    last updated on: 10.14.2011 at 06:29 am

RE: minwax ebony, dark walnut or jacobean, help asap! (Follow-Up #15)

posted by: GiuseppeM on 06.19.2011 at 06:27 pm in Flooring Forum

I read online that Dura Seal was a great brand and asked the floor guy to buy a couple samples of their stain.
The dark one is called Coffee Brown (1 coat) and the lighter one is called Spicy Brown (2 coats of stain). They both have 1 coat of water based finish and the floor was sanded with 100. The other color that you see on the right is Cherry.
Dura Seal is definitely a better brand than Minwax, the color is richer and the oak absorbed it more evenly.
Also you can apply multiple coats of stain, while Minwax contains a finish in it so the second coat never gets absorbed properly.


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clipped on: 10.12.2011 at 11:19 pm    last updated on: 10.12.2011 at 11:19 pm

RE: Pictures of stairs with hardwood (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: art_teacher_mom on 10.23.2010 at 06:49 pm in Flooring Forum

YES! Stain the banister to match in a cherry tone. Check out Centsational Girl's blog, she just did this today and has great pictures!
She actually stripped/sanded her banister so she could use a penetrating stain. If it were me, I wouldn't work that hard and would use a gel stain on top of the banister instead. Lightly sand just to give it "tooth" then apply an oil based gel stain like Old Masters or Rockler. (DO NOT use minwax. It's lousy in my opinion.) Gel stain doesn't soak in, it's more like a glaze on top. But it will look just as good, I promise!

Here is a link that might be useful: Centsational Girl's stairs

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clipped on: 10.12.2011 at 11:15 pm    last updated on: 10.12.2011 at 11:15 pm

RE: Dark and very hard real wood flooring recs? (Follow-Up #11)

posted by: cinnamonsworld on 08.09.2010 at 11:04 am in Flooring Forum

Laurarenos, I searched Google images for merbau floors and what a gorgeous wood! (Not very grainy, and what grain is there I'd call pretty.)

A little rambling follow-up: We hope to schedule our project to start in the next month or two. I will probably look a little more into merbau but so far my husband and I have settled on one photo that we're showing to our wood-floors guy (in the biz >20 years etc.), and it's attached (Armstrong sapele in roasted bean, engineered). He's making up a sample for us of that look but without so much beveling, and one other, likely in American walnut but handscraped boards and then stained (would be on-site). After seeing the sample we'll work on what we can do about pricing and options to get as close to that look as possible for our budget. (We want a great floor are willing to pay some premium for it, but within reason.)

One thing our guy was talking about was selecting boards for the most consistent color throughout the house ... they can do some things with the stain itself to encourage not a ton of variation between boards, but he mentioned sometimes ordering a bit more wood than usual can be a good idea as you get to pick and choose the boards you want to lay down with more discretion. (He's been very much more of the 'you don't need to overspend' type with his suggestions, so I'm inclined to buy his rationale here.

The exotics aren't entirely out of the picture. While looking at woods I got curious about what it feels like to walk on the different hardnesses of woods. I think we had something like 5/8" oak, which upon looking at the torn-out boards looks softer and more flexible - by miles - than the samples I've seen of teak! So those of you with 3/4" tropical woods, are the floors harder than conventional-wood floors? Does a cork underlayment even do much for tropical woods for the feel of walking on them, or entirely superfluous?

The other thing I got curious about was whether the handscraping I've seen on tropicals has tended to be different from the handscraping I've seen on softer woods for a reason... because of the hardness of the wood and the difficulty (historically speaking) of scraping. That is ... the tropicals that I've seen handscraped have long, shallow, flowing scrapes but the softer woods I've seen handscraped have tended to have more grooves and a more dramatic texture of handscraping. (To me it separates the tropical-floor or Asian-floor look from the Americana look ... however unauthentic that view may be.)

I saw when looking at hardwood samples how the difference in the wood itself between something like birch, or even oak, and teak or other hard tropical woods, is night and day. On the edge and underside, the former looks like cheap plywood vs. an incredibly solid, dense and beautiful wood. (Certainly the former have their applications and fans, and arguably may be a lot easier to work with where nailing and sawing is concerned!)

Here is a link that might be useful: Armstrong sapele in roasted bean

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hardwood and brick hearth finishing

posted by: wendyb on 11.03.2010 at 08:36 pm in Flooring Forum

How should this be finished off? caulk? grout? nothing? Should the wood have been scribed to the uneven brick?

The wood installer did knock off some of the brick high points or the gap would have been even bigger!!

Oh and the bricks and the mortar are faux painted so it would be nearly impossible to touch up

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RE: Help? How to trim fireplace gap after floor install? Pics (Follow-Up #17)

posted by: susanwrites on 11.28.2010 at 07:24 pm in Home Decorating Forum

Okay, I took a couple more close-ups of the two moldings that we have here that are of the same bamboo as the floor. It sorta looks like the second one could be done the same way that nana2 did hers. What do you think? It's tapered so the fat part could go against the tile and the slope down to the floor.

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RE: Finishing walnut countertop and tabletops (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: brickton on 08.05.2011 at 07:27 am in Kitchens Forum

If you are doing waterlox you want to do at least 2 base coats and 2 finish coats. Some people do more, but I've seen that recommended for floors (and it's what we did on our floors) so I think it's probably fine for counters. Waterlox needs to dry at least 24 hours before recoating, sometimes more (A LOT MORE) if it's the low VOC formula and you are in the middle of a stupid humid heat wave (ie when we were finishing our floors for the last 3 weeks). Applying waterlox is very straight forward though, it just goes on like a poly or other finish. Also if he runs into any problem the company is happy to take calls and answer questions, my flooring guy had to call and talk to them more than once during our install.

Waterlox FAQ

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RE: How thick is your butcher block island countertop? (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: Capegirl05 on 09.04.2011 at 07:46 am in Kitchens Forum

Breezy, yes, I will post a picture after install, although my 13-yr ld will have to show me how to post a pic ;)...I am going with the 1 3/4...we have 3cm granite coming, so I think the 1 3/4 will be best. We just opted for a simple island with seating on one side...no sinks. Thanks for the replies from everyone. It makes the decision-making process less grueling. Anyone else?

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RE: CraftArt Butcher Block Island Tops (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: raymondtwp on 08.30.2011 at 02:24 pm in Kitchens Forum

I went with Black Walnut Homeowner DIY pieces from Craft Art. I got samples of Black Walnut, White Oak, and American Cherry. The American cherry was a yellow/red, white oak was medium brown with honey blonde graining, and the black walnut sample was a definite medium to dark brown and I could see part of a dark filled knot. And definitely do the homeowner version. It has any knots filled and comes with one coat of oil already on it.

After I bit the bullet and bought it, I was really pleased with the look and color of the Black Walnut that I finally settled on. It was a true walnut and was a warm to dark brown. I didn't need to (or even want to) stain it to get a really nice deep color we were going for. I did go ahead and get the "waterlox sealer/finish" and the "waterlox satin finish" that they recommended in their instructions - and you do need both if you want to make it waterproof and fully sealed.

Seriously, their instructions were really helpful - even to someone like me who sort of knows what I'm doing (aka over confident when I shouldn't be, haha I am man enough to admit it). They were written like a... recipe? Had a breakdown of items you need, time frame it takes to actually do and time frame including dry time, then detailed instructions including hints and tips and stuff. Way better than the instructions I found on the crazy Ikea finish that I tried to use on a different project.

Things we considered:
- What color are your cabinets? Ours are medium to light brown, but I think we may have them repainted to an off white to make the black walnut stand out more in the future.

-What color is the paint in that room? I personally think our grey/green makes the walnut look more "cool" in tone - but if the room was the yellow color we almost went with, the walnut would reflect that and pick up those yellow tones and be even warmer looking.

-Do you want to match or contrast? Or both?! We have "mullican solid wood - oak" from loews. It is a medium brown but has dark almost black grains. We decided that would work well to compliment the Black Walnut and that the White Oak would make it too consistently yellowish of a tone in the room. This is our floor:

I hope that gives ya something to work with. I am certainly not a designer, but now that its all installed and done, we get lots of compliments so that has to stand for something!

Ps. My finishing products (the waterlox ones I mentioned) came a couple days before the top did, actually. I had a chance to practice which was really nice. Highly recommend a quick practice run, even if its on plywood or a 2x4, the technique matters on the last coat.

Oh and last thing, I was able to find how much product I needed to finish it so I'm including that so you won't have to look through their site: "For a 2 oz. pouch, coverage is approximately 7.5 square feet for one coat. For a pint the coverage is 60 square feet for one coat. For a quart the coverage is 120 square feet for one coat."

This is a LOT like what mine turned out like (minus the edge profile):

Here is a link that might be useful: craft art DIY stuff - and if you have a contractor doing the install, tell him to watch the install video on there, too. Helped us a lot.

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