Clippings by NJHM
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Help! Who has led lights in glass cabinet with wood shelves
Please help! I know I saw a picture on here with a glass front cabinet with wooden shelves and there was led lighting running vertically down both sides of the cabinet to light up the cabinet.
I want to do this in my cabinet. I thought I bookmarked the thread but now I can't find it.
If it's your kitchen or you know what I'm talking about could you please provide the link? Thanks!
<none>clipped on: 03.15.2013 at 07:46 pm last updated on: 03.15.2013 at 07:46 pm
RE: It's March- How is your build progressing? (Follow-Up #89)
Look what these guys went and did to our lot, yesterday!
Our neighbor sent us this picture along with some others of very impressive equipment.
<none>clipped on: 09.22.2012 at 07:27 pm last updated on: 09.22.2012 at 07:27 pm
RE: Beekeeperswife (Follow-Up #17)
HI lindsay, the bathroom tile is from Mission Stone & Tile. Same place the arabesques were from.
The specific tile name of the floor tile is VIDA DOLCE Calacatta Porcelain (mine are 18x18 tiles), and the mosaic in the shower is Imperial Trellis- Calacatta/Lagos.
Here is a link that might be useful: the floor tile
<none>clipped on: 07.02.2012 at 07:53 pm last updated on: 07.02.2012 at 07:53 pm
RE: Where to find Mother of Pearl Quartz countertop (Follow-Up #18)
here's my designer's contact info: Dennis Adams (404)556-0945 begin_of_the_skype_highlighting (404)556-0945 end_of_the_skype_highlighting. He helped us find our MP out here in LA.
<none>clipped on: 05.22.2012 at 01:57 am last updated on: 05.22.2012 at 01:57 am
RE: Where to find Mother of Pearl Quartz countertop (Follow-Up #8)
I have Madre Perla quartzite countertops. I have also seen them called Madre Perola. They change names just to mix you up. Mine were purchased in Southern California - they're very desirable out here, so they fly out of the stone yards.
<none>clipped on: 05.22.2012 at 01:55 am last updated on: 05.22.2012 at 01:55 am
RE: Please help - question on Plank Width for hrdwood floors (Follow-Up #12)
5" planks are considered wide planks. I really educated myself after having a bad first experience. I learned everything from floorguy and the hardwoodinstaller website. I made sure that a moisture meter was used and the floor was checked for flatness. My wood did not have to acclimate because it is engineered. My condo is 35 years old so their was no waiting period before the install. Everything was done as per industry standards. Even so I have some small hollow spots.
The manufacturer of your floor will have an insert with every box of wood. It tells you exactly what steps to follow regarding moisture and preperation. This should be followed exactly. Maybe you should just get a credit for the floor and have someone who knows what they are doing install it. You really have to be careful though, even the so called pros don't know what they are doing. In Chicago anyone can call themselves a floor installer. There is no industry standard. I would have the builder put in writing that he will follow the manufacturers guidlines to the letter when installing your floor. My floor is by Mirage and my installation instructions are very specific. If the guidelines are not followed and the floor fails you will have a much bigger problem.
<none>clipped on: 05.22.2012 at 01:35 am last updated on: 05.22.2012 at 01:38 am
RE: Please help - question on Plank Width for hrdwood floors (Follow-Up #11)
RED FLAGS!!!! WAVING!!!!!
Danger, Danger, Danger!!! Houston we have a problem.
Typical builder. clueless!!!! Go to www.NOFMA.org and download the jobsite requirements befor acclimation and installation.
Here is a link that might be useful: Jobsite specifications and requirements
<none>clipped on: 05.22.2012 at 01:36 am last updated on: 05.22.2012 at 01:36 am
RE: Kitchen remodel - higher end (Follow-Up #3)
I have a 48-inch SZ 632 built-in side-by-side. It has cabinet matching door panels. I love it. It maintains each side's temperature very closely. The cabinet depth makes it easy to see what is lurking at the back of the shelves. The 48-inch width makes up for the volume loss of the cabinet depth.
It has not had any refrigeration problems.
I found two deviations from the standard installation necessary. I had to tweak the mounting hardware of the upper panel (in front of the refrigeration equipment) so that the panel was truly in the same plane as the door panels when the refrigerator was aligned.
I constructed a more robust top attachment in place of the SZ-supplied anti-fallover scheme. It is helpful in keeping the refrigerator from moving when the doors are opened against the gasket force. Note that the freezer side pulls a partial vacuum when the door is closed, so opening the door shortly after closing it requires significant pulling force.
I think this model has been replaced by another model number.
I also recommend that at any wall space in which a refrigerator/freezer of this sort or wall ovens or both are installed that the cabinet depth be increased from 24 inches to 26 inches to allow room for electrical boxes, power cables, and air space, as well as adjustment depth to get all door panels to be the same depth from the wall.
Refrigerator/Cabinet Depthclipped on: 05.08.2012 at 07:13 pm last updated on: 05.08.2012 at 07:14 pm
RE: Help before I ruin my almost finished kitchen (Follow-Up #38)
lucretzia, I happen to love the color of your cabinets - I'm glad your planning to find a way to love them too :) I happen to like the terracota backsplash w/your other choices - and like that you trust your gut w/colors and materials the way you do - it will work out beautifully, I think.
You're getting great recommendations for hardware - I found mine at Te Ma (by accident) looking online - turns out this small company is within 10 miles of my house (I'd no idea) and so I was able to take advantage of a their factory sale. I've a sense you might find their hardware attractive.
Knobsclipped on: 05.07.2012 at 09:08 am last updated on: 05.07.2012 at 09:09 am
Lucretzia's kitchen cabinets from Jacob
I dragged my DH away from so that he could upload some pictures for me. :-)
Here how they look just after they were installed...
<none>clipped on: 05.07.2012 at 09:00 am last updated on: 05.07.2012 at 09:01 am
RE: Need Custom Cabinet Recommendations- PA/NY/NJ (Follow-Up #23)
Beaglesdoitbetter, I think I probably live about 10-15 miles from you! Rissler cabinets in Leola would be worth checking out. 717-656-6101 begin_of_the_skype_highlighting 717-656-6101 end_of_the_skype_highlighting. I was going to use them for my kitchen but he couldn't fit my kitchen in to his schedule because we had a small time frame to work with. He did do cabinets for a friend of mine and did a fabulous job. He also did bathroom cabinets for us a couple years ago. His price would be well under 53K I think. His cabinets are very good quality. He does not have a fancy showroom so no pricey overhead.
<none>clipped on: 05.07.2012 at 08:59 am last updated on: 05.07.2012 at 08:59 am
RE: michelle 16 did u do ur cabinets (Follow-Up #1)
Not with a company. I am in the same boat you are just about 4 weeks behind you in design ...lol. Looking for some of the same things you are. I have a slightly bigger 30' of cabinets and a little more $$ to spend. After Jan 1st we are going to start looking at cabinet suppliers. Oxford Cabinet Shop is 1st on our list. I also plan to go to the Amish Market in Flemington to see if the Amish have any recommendations on who they know. The in laws are in the Lancaster area, going to see what they know and can find out.
I am in Washington, Warren County.
<none>clipped on: 05.07.2012 at 08:50 am last updated on: 05.07.2012 at 08:50 am
Quote & Layout from Amish Cabinet Maker
I promise this will be my last posting regarding cabinets and layout!
Master Design Cabinetry (Amish cabinetmaker) came highly recommended on this site as well as in our local magazine called "Washingtonian". We had a very pleasant phone conversation and email exchange and he sent me the quote and layout below. I want to get your thoughts before I drive 2.5 hours to his shop to see the cabinets in person. This could work with my budget if I choose some less expensive finishes, i.e. non-glass stacked cabinets, backsplash and countertops.
<none>clipped on: 04.26.2012 at 12:11 pm last updated on: 04.26.2012 at 12:11 pm
RE: What do you store in your kitchen drawers? (Follow-Up #2)
Kitchen drawers are so fun! I don't have anything IN mine yet but I have big plans for them!
Here's a 36 inch wide drawer. This one has a bread bin on one side and then lift-out boxes on the other. Since this set of drawers is below my appliance cabinet where the kitchen-aid mixer will go, I expect to store flour, sugar and other baking items in the wooden boxes (not loose obviously- in containers inside the boxes). Since they lift out, I can take them elsewhere in the kitchen should those items be needed elsewhere:
Little utensil drawer. 24 inches wide. 3.5 inches deep. It's above fridge/freezer drawers. It will store an ice cream scoop, ice cream spoons, etc. (These are my beverage/snack fridge/freezer drawers below)
There are little 5 inch wide pull-outs along both top and bottom of the stove. One is a magnetic board w/ hooks for hanging; the top one is for pan lids and oven mits and there are two of the utensil ones seen above:
<none>clipped on: 04.15.2012 at 10:00 am last updated on: 04.21.2012 at 09:08 am
Finally - Final Kitchen Pictures
Sorry but many other competing activities my time so I finally have had a chance to get DH to upload the pictures of the completed .
A huge thanks to everyone on the forum who spent the time to look at my ideas, provide great feedback, and calm me down when I thought the project would never end up right.
<none>clipped on: 04.16.2012 at 07:11 pm last updated on: 04.16.2012 at 07:11 pm
Kerdi Shower Part Deux
Here's Part Deux. The original Kerdi Shower thread lost virtually all of the photo links when the forum they were on changed their software and dumped the links. That forum's administrator doesn't know if they're recoverable, so I did a little editing and here's Part Deux. I may ask Gardenweb to delete the original thread.
This thread is to show a few techniques for working with Kerdi membrane.
Shower is a walk-in, about 5' by 7'. Door is at a 45 degree angle in one of the corners.
Walk in to the shower and on the short wall to the immediate right are two supply valves, the lower one supplies the wall mounted handheld, the upper supplies an overhead 12" rainshower head.
Moving counterclockwise from that wall, the long wall to the left of the valve wall is an exterior wall and will get nothing but tile.
To the left of that long exterior wall is the shower's short back wall, it gets a 2-shelf niche. The niche is about 36" wide and 30" tall. The lower niche space is 15" high, the shelf itself is 4" thick, the upper niche space is 11" high.
To the left of the short niche wall is another long wall, this wall has the wall-mounted hand-held. If I recall, the sliding bar is 40" tall.
In the ceiling is a 12" rain shower head. Also four can lights for illimination and a fan for ventilation. Ceiling will be tiled.
The wall construction? Kerdi is a vapor barrier, so no barrier is needed on these walls. Tile backer? With Kerdi you can use drywall. I prefer cement board on the walls. Wonderboard or Durock. I used Wonderboard on these walls. The ceiling and niche is done in Hardie, which is a fiber-cement board. Hardie is less brittle, so for me it's easier to cut into narrow strips to trim out the niche, and not as prone to snapping when installing full sheets overhead. I work solo 95% of the time, so it's not uncommon to hold the sheet up with one hand and have the screw gun in the other.
<none>clipped on: 04.15.2012 at 11:49 pm last updated on: 04.15.2012 at 11:50 pm
RE: What do you store in your kitchen drawers? (Follow-Up #9)
Dividers can really make drawers work well. I only have doors were drawers would have messed up the overall "look" I do think almost all of my doors have roll out shelves except under the sink where it would bump into the plumbing.
I'm adding three wide but shallow drawers with the new window seat. Not sure what I'll put in them, but I'm glad to be getting more drawers.
<none>clipped on: 04.15.2012 at 11:46 am last updated on: 04.15.2012 at 11:46 am
RE: What do you store in your kitchen drawers? (Follow-Up #8)
Just about everything! Having drawers has given my kitchen much-needed organization. I am amazed at how much can fit into drawers, and it is still organized!
Here are just a few shots of drawers that have made my kitchen life so much easier--
I love love LOVE my drawers! :)
Pyrex Storageclipped on: 04.15.2012 at 10:05 am last updated on: 04.15.2012 at 10:05 am
Finished Finished! Rancher Remodel, dark to light! (tons pix)
We are done, we are moved in.....after 17mos living with my mom and enduring living out of cardboard boxes! Love love love my new kitchen!! Thank you to all of you who deeply inspired me (redroze,elizpiz,rm,theanimala,segbrown,many many more!), and I hope you don't mind that there's a piece of each of your kitchens that I copied because I admired it so much. I learned so much by lurking, reading everything then finally posting.
THINGS WE LOVE:
THINGS WE WOULDN'T DO AGAIN:
--Order our range through AJ Madison. Total pain to get this stove delivered. The rest of our appliances came without a hitch but the delivery of the range was a disaster. They refused to deliver it until we had a concrete pathway, but our city had some issues with solid pathways and the runoff, etc. Had 4 delivery dates and they turned around each time and refused to bring it in the house. In the end I would have purchased this through our local store (there was no discount on this by buying on internet, unlike the other appliances).
THINGS WE STILL NEED TO DO:
<none>clipped on: 04.13.2012 at 07:32 am last updated on: 04.13.2012 at 07:33 am
Modern Walnut Kitchen (v. long, many pics)
Hi there - DH went on a picture taking spree in the kitchen tonight, so I thought I might as well post more recent pictures of the kitchen and share the details thus far. I'm very wordy below, just skip to pictures if you like! :)
Still to do:
Two items remain outstanding: 1) backsplash (I know, so embarrassing after all the help and suggestions you guys gave me). I'll post separately on that issue soon, I hope to have something up by September. 2) island. In order to have a truly practical kitchen I need a drop zone in front of the pantry wall and fridge. We probably won't get to this until the winter, but I'm thinking about a wedge shaped island (or table) as drawn in the (clearly not to scale) layout of our ground floor posted below.
I must thank all of you, for the inspiration, the ideas, suggestions, lay-out advice, everything. I used this board and your expertise heavily and I am truly thankful. We have a wonderfully diverse, fun, exciting and TALENTED pool of people here on GW! Thank you, thank you, thank you. I can't name everyone to whom I am indebted, but I'll try (apologies to the many I've missed): elizpiz, firsthouse, boxerpups, malhgold, mom2reese, sabjimata, florantha, plllog, rhome, buehl, cat_mom, kaismom, billyyc ...
This house is situated a block or so from the confluence of two rivers and a waterfall. The house was built in 1877 as a home for the workers at the paper mill located at the falls. It was/is a simple two-story home. There have been four additions to the house over the years - for an urban home on a modest lot it is a decent sized house (about 2,100 or 2,200 sq feet I think), but certainly not a huge house. Perfect for our young family of four (well the kids are young at any rate!). Unfortunately over the years the original interior Victorian character was completely lost.
With the Victorian character long gone, two remaining elements of the house heavily swayed the direction we took with this reno. Eight gorgeous deco/FLW inspired stained/leaded glass windows (two of which you can see in the kitchen) and the MCM-style sunken living room. Given our love of modern design, we took these elements and ran with it for the renovation. I guess the style of the kitchen is "retro-moderne" or organic modern, I don't know.
This was a big job - major foundation work, interior walls moved, ceilings and walls rebuilt on two floors, new insulation, new kitchen, new powder room, moved laundry, etc. etc., it went far beyond the kitchen renovation. We moved out on November 1st, moved back in the first week of March.
I love my kitchen. LOVE IT. I'm blissfully happy and my quality of life has been improved. I'm broke of course, but c'est la vie I guess. Here is what I love most:
1. The walnut cabinets
I also really love the lay-out and 'feel' of the kitchen. It is open, airy, bright and still very warm or organic feeling. I love that as you walk into the kitchen from the front of the house your eyes are immediately drawn to the long run with the shelves and pictures. As you get further into the kitchen your eyes go to the living room and the lovely garden beyond. You actually have to stop and deliberately look at the clean-up sink run as your eye does not go there naturally. I like this as the clean-up run is the messy part of the kitchen - the sink hides many sins, as does the short wall separating that run from the dining room. The sink run is not visible at all from the dining room and living room. I almost have the best of both worlds - open concept, yet the messy bit is largely concealed from guests and casual observers.
There always are some. The first doozy of a surprise was when we discovered that there was no foundation at all under the mid section of our house (that addition was done around 1900 - the addition was essentially just sitting on the bedrock). A real budget buster that.
The main kitchen problem related to the counter, a poorly placed seam (my fault for leaving that last detail to DH). The problem was corrected and I have an extra two small slabs of quartzite for future bathroom renos. A relatively minor kitchen problem: most of the ceilings on the ground floor are close to 9', close to 10' in the sunken living room, so I expected that kind of height in the kitchen as well. Unfortunately duct work and plumbing got in the way (literally) and the kitchen ceilings turned out to be just a hair higher than 8'. My cabinet maker adjusted plans in time so not a big deal, but I would have liked higher ceilings.
Finally: I was diagnosed with Celiac two weeks ago. It would have been helpful to know this prior to the reno, as the way I organise the kitchen has to change to accommodate my dietary issues. Sigh.
What did it cost?
I'm happy to share approximate costing if anyone is interested. I wrote out costs for everything and then deleted it - I'm not sure what the protocol is for that sort of thing here. Anyway, it wasn't the cheapest kitchen reno ever, but it was more or less in keeping with the value of the house. Let me know if you want me to share, I'm not shy.
Cabinets: Walnut veneer, custom, local. The white cabs are painted something, I forgot for the moment - MDF maybe?? I can confirm if needed.
Counters: Quartzite Bianco (Ciot in Montreal was the supplier, Marble
Counters: Stainless Steel counter and integrated sink: P.E. Rail and Sons (local)
Flooring: Reclaimed birch, local: Log's End
Lighting: The undermount lights are by Eurofase. Our kitchen/dining room lighting setup is controlled using a six zone Lutron Grafik Eye unit. We needed to add a low-voltage dimming control unit in order for the Grafik Eye to control the under shelf lighting. Other lights: Alico Newton and Kendall mono points.
Faucets: Kohler Karbon, Kalia Elito Diver
Prep Sink: Ticor
Fridge : Gaggenau
Please feel free to ask anything that I may have overlooked for forgotten.
The Pictures (finally!) (I want him to take a close up of the shelves, I'll post that tomorrow).
Low wall separating the DR from LR
<none>clipped on: 04.12.2012 at 11:44 pm last updated on: 04.12.2012 at 11:44 pm
post script (Follow-Up #7)
How do you do a 33% overlap without having a 66% overlap at the other joint? Unless you insert another smaller tile for a flemish bond effect?
EVERY tile will have both a 33% and 66% overlap, like this:
<none>clipped on: 04.12.2012 at 11:30 pm last updated on: 04.12.2012 at 11:30 pm
RE: HELP! 6 x 24 tiles are bowing (Follow-Up #6)
This is something inherent in ALL large format tiles. This came out from The NTCA (national Tile Contractors Association) and the TCNA (Tile Council of North America) about 2 years ago, and was distributed to all contractors by Daltile:
Rectified tiles continue to increase in popularity, particularly in the commercial arena. For years, the industry and Dal-Tile have recommended that Rectified tiles can be installed with a 1/16" grout joint. However, from the contractorï¿½s perspective, installations have become more time consuming and difficult to ensure compliant installations when attempting to install a Rectified tile with a 1/16" grout joint. In response, the new TCNA (Tile Council of North America) Handbook addresses this issue by recommending that the width of the grout joint used be determined by the ANSI A108.02 specification which states that the actual grout joint size shall be at least 3 times the actual variation of facial dimensions of the tile. To simplify: Rectified tiles, regardless of size, shall have a grout joint width no less than 1/8". As a result, Dal-Tile is changing its recommended grout joint width to be 1/8" for all of its Rectified tiles.
In addition, we will no longer recommend in our literature that Rectified and Non-Rectified large format rectangle sizes (Ex: 12" x 24") can be installed in a brickwork or running bond pattern where the overlap is 50%. The reason for this is that the allowable warpage for a tile based on ANSI specifications can create an installation issue when large format rectangular tiles are installed in a brickwork/running bond pattern. This allowable warpage can create a scenario where lippage is inevitable given the overlapping pattern. To mitigate this effect, Dal-Tile will be removing the brickwork pattern from our catalogs and literature. This will be replaced by a new pattern that will be referred to as a "Staggered" brickwork pattern where the overlap does not exceed 33%, and the grout joint width must be a minimum of 3/16".
Large Format Tile Issueclipped on: 04.12.2012 at 11:29 pm last updated on: 04.12.2012 at 11:30 pm
Breezy- thanks for your storage idea
Breezy, just want to thank you for posting your spice drawer picture and giving the info about Specialty Bottle. My metal tins arrive today and I started organizing my spices right a way. I don't have a label maker so I just used clear address labels and printed them on the computer. I just have a few more jars and labels to do and I'll be all set. It will be so much easier finding my spices now instead of on having them on tiered shelves in a cabinet. My drawer is a little smaller than yours but I could fit 35 small tins and 1 larger one with room to spare. Thanks again for sharing that picture and info. Here is how mine looks:
Spice Storageclipped on: 04.12.2012 at 10:55 pm last updated on: 04.12.2012 at 10:55 pm
RE: Slashing costs on cabinets, is this ok? (Follow-Up #47)
LOL, Jason should remember us, he's still not done w/ our house! There's bedroom cabinets to install and a library laddar and he's making us vent covers and mirrors yet...
One thing to note- Jason is great because there are a lot of amish working in the cabinet shop but he and his brothers who work in the shop and install are actually mennonite, which I gather is less strict because he uses email. I cannot tell you how many times we emailed back and forth on every little detail b/c my gmail box just says "hundreds" when I search for Jason. The ability to email is priceless esp. since you are far away.
He also does CAD drawings that would rival any architect (someone on GW actually commented once that they were jealous of my architect's CAD drawings- which Jason got a big kick out of when I told him).
You will NEVER wait very long for price quotes or changes. When you do get up-charged for stuff, which is rare, the up-charges are usually extremely small.
Jason will also listen and make ANYTHING you want happen. We went through about 30 drawings (or more) to make my gathering room book cases work. He came up w/ ideas I never even would know to ask for (like the way he did my dog room steps so you open the bottom step and all 3 pull out), and he never said no to me on anything- including the 18 ft high ceiling book case that continues up at a triangle w/ library ladder. They also fixed mistakes made by others (the first granite people left a gap, they magically fixed it, I still do not know how to this day). And when something was done in a way that didn't look 100 percent right for whatever reason (like a window seat we planned that ended up intersecting a window frame oddly), they stopped what they were doing, came up w/ a solution and emailed us our options to fix it and then fixed it w/o any stress, hassle or cost to us.
The great thing about the itemized quote is that you can see areas to save very easily. Jason also had absolutely no problem w/ me ordering things online if it was cheaper to do so (I ordered some rev-a-shelf inserts and some niches that went into the cabinets).
Sorry, I am going on and on. I just really am so amazed every day when I see what they did for us and compare that to what we would have paid so much more for elsewhere!
Dutch Wood LLCclipped on: 04.12.2012 at 08:31 pm last updated on: 04.12.2012 at 08:31 pm
RE: Inset cabinet hinges (Follow-Up #3)
They are called mortised cabinet hinges. The ones we used are HERE. They are more work to install because they are mortised into the door and the stile and mistakes are clearly visible. They are not adjustable, but they don't need to be adjusted. Because they are mortised they can't move around. Install them correctly and they'll still be correct in 100 years. (The design inspiration for our kitchen cabinets was a 100 year old 3/4 inset liquor cabinet I salvaged from a big house on the Jersey Shore that was being demolished. It's now being used as a tool cabinet in the bike shed.)
Barrel Hingesclipped on: 04.12.2012 at 09:13 am last updated on: 04.12.2012 at 09:13 am
RE: Inset cabinet hinges (Follow-Up #4)
We have the same style of hinges as shown in your link.
Our cabinetmaker called them barrel hinges and I believe he got them from Horton Brass. Our hutch has H-hinges from another company, and you're right, the ORB finishes are slightly different. I thought it would be noticable, but it's really not, maybe because the cherry and tiger maple are already different.
Our cabinetmaker also prefers hidden hinges, because they're adjustable after the door is attached. However, he ends up using exposed hinges most of the time, because his clients prefer a period look. They do require much more meticulous installation (and more $$ for the time involved) to keep the gap around the door even.
I agree exposed hinges should be a standard offering with inset cabinets. IMO, a cabinetmaker should be embarrassed to offer insets and then admit that exposed hinges are beyond his/her abilities. And for the cabinetmaker not to know where to get exposed hinges for you?! I would be scared of what else they might not know how to do!
Here is a link that might be useful: Rest of kitchen
Tiger Mapleclipped on: 04.12.2012 at 09:12 am last updated on: 04.12.2012 at 09:13 am
Am I using too many materials for my kitchen counters?
I received very helpful feedback from several GW members regarding my counter top choices of soapstone versus honed dark green granite; see post:
Honed dark green granite that looks like soapstone?
I am leaning towards the honed green granite for ease of maintenance.
I am now grappling with a couple of dilemmas...
My ceiling height is 8' for half the kitchen area and the other half is 9'. The overall room size is 16' x 16' at the widest points. It faces south and will have a skylight.
Here are two graphics of my proposed kitchen with the idea of using honed green granite on the perimeter, cherry butcher block on the island with a soapstone farmhouse prep sink. Below I have included a gorgeous kitchen from which I got the inspiration plus a forth picture showing my honed granite and soapstone samples.
Any and all thoughts regarding my two questions/concerns above?
Lucretzia's layoutclipped on: 04.11.2012 at 08:38 am last updated on: 04.11.2012 at 08:39 am
RE: KNGWD-please read (Follow-Up #7)
Michelle, I am using a custom cabinet guy for painted inset in NJ whose price includes install and there is no tax b/c he makes and installs them- it's a capital improvement. He quoted me 29K for about 50 linear of base cabinetry inluding a pantry and range mantle type surround. And his price includes all moldings, side panels, roll outs, trim etc. everything. www.heardwoodworking.com He is in Chatham and I dealt with Russell the owner.
Chatham cabinet makerclipped on: 04.11.2012 at 08:29 am last updated on: 04.11.2012 at 08:29 am
Granite installed today on dove white shaker cabs...pics
In this looooooong house remodel (going on month 18) there have been a plethora of choices; granite tops being one of the most difficult I think. Since we have a budget, and a tight one at that, I had to somewhat "settle" for what we could afford. I've read everything about glossy black tops (ours are black pearl) and how they show everything, so waiting for the install wasn't as exciting as I hoped. However, once they were installed I was pleasantly surprised at how they looked with the cabinets. Of course, we aren't living there yet, so I'm sure the crumb/fingerprint/dust issue will rear its ugly head. But... I CAN say that they make me smile when I look into the kitchen.
Of course the worrying isn't over yet!! I'm having a wood island top installed in two weeks, and I hope I'm happy since it's the first thing everyone will see, and I'm sure it will be the most used surface. It's a walnut plank top with approximately 6" wide planks or greater. I'm praying it turns out how I hope. We ordered it from our cabinet maker without seeing a sample. :/
<none>clipped on: 04.11.2012 at 12:19 am last updated on: 04.11.2012 at 12:19 am
Info. About Amish Cabinetmaker in Southern PA , as requested
I have recently received several emails asking for the info. on the Amish Cabinetmaker I am using. So I thought I would post this on the forum, just in case anyone else might be looking for this informaiton as well.
Sorry Backinus for taking so long to get this posted. But here you go:
Oxford Cabinet Shop
Phone: 717-529-0949 begin_of_the_skype_highlighting 717-529-0949 end_of_the_skype_highlighting (they only answer M-F, between 8:00-8:30am)
Jacob Fisher runs the shop, and it is housed on his farm. They have a mini show room of their doors, finishes, etc. Although, they can pretty much make anything.
Dovetail drawers and solid hardwood maple or birch is standard for their interiors. And the construction is excellent.
They do not have a Kitchen designer. You will have to find someone on your own. I found this person online and almost used her (just too pricey for me and I only a few cabinets made, so I just figured it out on my own). I met her and she seemed like she was great. However, I can not give a recommendation based on using her. Just that in talking to her, she seemed very knowledgeable. And certainly her portfolio is great, too. http://www.kirstenskitchens.com/
In terms of price, I think it depends on what you get (finish, doors, size, etc.) But here is an example, for my island: 40x72, beaded inset, painted finish, 6 drawers and 2 bookcases, including installation - $3500.
I received estimates from about 5 kitchen places and this was the lowest price by far, and with the best construction, materials, etc.
We priced the island out without the inset and when he said that the increase for beaded inset was only $200, I just about fell over. Incredible, really. Every other place had a significant difference between inset and regular overlay cabinetry.
They have an installer who will come to your house and measure. I had a little difficulty tracking him down sometimes, but he is very nice and took perfect measurements for our replacement cabinetry.
They do not advertise online, and are not in the phonebook - which is why they are so hard to find. Luckily, our original kitchen was made by them (10 years ago and still holding up great). So our builder gave us the information about them. I share this, so that you know that I even can tell you that a 10 year old kitchen still looks great. No warping on doors, or misaligned cabinetry, etc.
Hope this helps for all of you folks looking for a great cabinetmaker at a great price in Southern PA!
Good luck in your kitchen projects,
<none>clipped on: 04.11.2012 at 12:10 am last updated on: 04.11.2012 at 12:10 am
RE: Pennsylvania Cabinet Shopping - Value (Follow-Up #1)
If you are going to look for Amish/mennonite cabinet makers in PA, they are all going to be custom cabinetry as far as I know. We went to many different places (we're very close to Lancaster) and didn't encounter any who had off-the-rack cabinets (for lack of a better word). That said,
Home Improvement Outlet "
has what seemed to be reasonably affordable semi-custom cabinetry when we went in there looking for floors, but I didn't really look into it at all because we'd already found our cabinet maker and I have no idea who makes it or if it is the same brands as you'd find everywhere else.
Most of the non-custom places we went to did just sell the same stuff you'd get anywhere else (Kratmaid, Candlelight, Medallion, etc.) so there wouldn't probably be a lot of use in you going to Lancaster, etc. just to look at that stuff.
Our custom cabinet maker was less expensive than Medallion or Candlelight. Our cabinet maker is Dutch Wood Kitchens
When we were looking, we also went to Oxford Cabinet Company on the recommendation of people here:
Here is a thread on the same question: cabinet cost
<none>clipped on: 04.10.2012 at 11:58 pm last updated on: 04.10.2012 at 11:58 pm
RE: lucretzia please read ques. under your pics-anyone know oxfor (Follow-Up #10)
Ok...I'll try to keep this organized. I have mostly drawers. I don't have many upper cabinets, because I have 3 windows along the sink wall, and I have a 7 x 7 pantry.
To keep it simple:
I have 23 drawers total. 17 on the perimeter and 6 on the island (microwave and trash are in the island). I modeled my island after katieob, only hers is a bit longer and wider than mine.
9 upper cabinets - 3 corner, and 2 on either side of range hood, which is very similar to lucretzia's but smaller, above fridge and a couple others - under sink and next to fridge.
1 hutch type cabinet 54" tall that sits on the counter with 10 lite glass.
Lazy susan in corner.
They are all inset cabinets with exposed hinges on the doors. Drawers are full extension with soft close. I have a utensil drawer on the island, and a cutlery tray next to the range. A double trash pull out. I would have had spice pull outs, but because the space between my fridge and my range would have been only about 24" with the spice pullouts, I decided to forgo that and have a 36" stack of 3 drawers next to the range - thanks to advice from people on this forum.
Everyone on GW was so helpful with helping me plan my ideas. I can truly say my kitchen and my home will be 100x nicer than I would have ever done on my own.
Lori's Cabinetsclipped on: 04.10.2012 at 09:59 pm last updated on: 04.10.2012 at 09:59 pm
RE: Ratings of Cabinet Manufacturers? (Follow-Up #19)
Yes, I'm happy to share. I am working with an Amish cabinet maker. I do not know how far they travel, but they make a quality cabinet for incredible prices.
Call between 8:00-8:30am M-F and you will be able to talk to Jacob. If you can not call between those hours, they have a message line. The only challenge in working with them is that you will really need your own designer. They do not have a designer or anything like that. And their "showroom" is on their farm. However, like I said - their cabinets are great. A local builder uses them exclusively, which is how I found them.
Oxford Cabinet Shop
Phone: 717-529-0949 begin_of_the_skype_highlighting 717-529-0949 end_of_the_skype_highlighting (use this number between 8:00-8:30am)
I did also finally find a designer that I love. If you live close to Philly - check out her site. I am planning on working with her as well.
Good luck in your search for a cabinet maker!
Here is a link that might be useful: Kirsten's Kitchens Designs
Oxford Cabinet Shopclipped on: 04.10.2012 at 09:33 pm last updated on: 04.10.2012 at 09:33 pm
RE: Ratings of Cabinet Manufacturers? (Follow-Up #12)
My "fully custom" Kountry Kraft cabinets are fine, but pale in comparison with the quality of my custom cabinets and furniture made for my bathrooms and family room by a very talented cabinet maker. If you are in NJ, email me and I'll send you his contact info.
I went with KK and one of their designers bc I was clueless about how to properly lay out my kitchen and really wanted guidance. The guy I worked with was amazing and I'm really happy with my layout. However, KK installed leaves much to be desired. Details I NEVER knew to consider were far inferior to the details in my bathroom vanities and the furniture our cabinet maker did. In hindsight, I'd pay him the few thousand more to do my kitchen than what I ended up with, but would still have hired the same designer.
Today, after my massive experience renovating our entire house including 6 bathrooms, laundry rooms, closets, etc. I know I wouldn't need the designer, but would work with Rich, my cabinet guy, myself.
Examples of details lost w/KK and probalby any other big company.
The exposed hinges on my inset cabinets were not aligned lever with all the other cabinet doors.
The seams between boxes (yes, there are boxes even with "fully custom" cabs) are not tight. Why? BC the company sands the edges of each box ever so much, so when two edges go together there is a bit of a dip, which creates a very obvious line especially with white cabinets like I have. This did not happen with my cabinet maker.
Inset doors and drawers are not "centered" perfectly in their spaces. Cabinet maker would make it work.
Tops of exposed cabinets were not finished; left "bowls" of unfinished and shimmed bare wood which was not acceptable in my vaulted ceiling kitchen. It "doesn't show" but it sill is an area that has to be wiped clean occasionally. Cabinet maker would have finished it without having to do after the fact.
Other, numberous details that are difficult to remember.
Kountry Kraft may or may not be around in 10 years, but they couldn't even replace a damaged cupboard door and make the white color match after 3 attempts within weeks of installation! My cabinet maker is still around, raising a family and standing behind every detail. In fact, we keep hiring him to build us more and more! Check out this awesome tv cabinet he built for us, custom!
Good luck to you!
Beautiful Cabinetsclipped on: 04.10.2012 at 09:32 pm last updated on: 04.10.2012 at 09:32 pm
RE: SMARGE- your backsplash? (Follow-Up #25)
drjgreenberg - Yes, we are pretty close! We live in Llewellyn Park in W. Orange and my kids actually go to school in Short Hills!
Our cabinet maker, as I'm sure you've read in other threads, is the #1 favorite sub our contractor used and we have hired him directly for many other projects which we love.
His name is Rich of Siena Woodworks in Rockaway NJ (973) 495-2000 begin_of_the_skype_highlighting (973) 495-2000 end_of_the_skype_highlighting. He is talented, intelligent, calm (valuable on a busy job site!), and very good at planning details in advance. If I knew then what I know now, he absolutely would have done my kitchen (although I am still happy having worked with my KD bc I had no clue when I started planning the kitchen. I used Jeff Kennedy who works out of The Sawhorse in Millburn. I just would have preferred cabinets by Rich instead of the Kountry Kraft I bought.)
I would not recommend our fabricator.
We also sourced some beautiful tile (natural stone as well as high quality porcelain) through Stone Source in Carlstadt http://www.stonesource.com They have a nice showroom with gorgeous, very unique stone and tile. They have a lot of product in stock and can show you slabs, etc. They aren't just a showroom.
In fact, if you like the look of a stone called Lagos Azul, they have a porcelain tile that looks exactly like it for much less cost and WAY less maintenance! (Their Stontech/1.0 in the color Stongrey 6.0. It's what I used for the floor in my mudroom as well as sheets of 2x2 tiles for the shower floor in my guest bath as well as the dog shower in our garage.)
Another excellent showroom for tile ideas is Artistic Tile in NYC. We bought all the various sizes of Carrera Gold marble tile for our MaBa from them. We worked with Rachel Myerson, who was great. You should visit their one afternoon - it can be a good time, since they always have out pretty decent wine and cheese for their clients' pleasure!
Last, if you are in the market for new appliances, I recommend you go to Karl's in Orange (very close to W.Orange - take a right off Mt. Pleasant and it is about 110 yards on your left off Main St. - not at all scary.)
They will play the pricing game and no matter what you tell them, they won't give you the best price first. But, they will try to beat anyone else's price to get your business. Sort of slimy, but they have a good showroom and they have the 3.5 sales tax due to the depressed area.
I bought all my household appliances from Paul's Appliances in Newark. Very nice guy named Dominick who has been there forever and isn't going anywhere. Same tax break at Karl's, much smaller place, but much to see on their second floor, and a bit scarier to drive to alone, but not horrible. Excellent customer service (they took delivery of my appliances WEEKS before my GC was ready to accept them at no charge and other things I don't want to post online.) Their price was the LOWEST 1st quote I got from anyone else, often including online retailers! His first quote is his final quote, no games. However, I think Karl's would have tried to beat the prices, but the sliminess turned me off.
If money is the key driver, I'd get a quote from Dom and get Karl's to beat it. If you want a retailer who will stand behind the sale - just a more pleasant experience overall, I think you can't beat Paul's in this business.
Let me know if you need other info - I'm happy to "give back" to GW'ers, especially someone local to me!
Good luck to you!
Smargeclipped on: 04.10.2012 at 09:29 pm last updated on: 04.10.2012 at 09:30 pm
RE: SMARGE- your backsplash? (Follow-Up #9)
Sorry I haven't checked GW for a while!
I'll happily post more pictures of my backsplash, and am happy also to share contact info re: the wonderfully talented mosaic artist I found online, named Cynthia Fisher.
My husband and I have always loved a "Tree of Life" - it represents home, family, lifecycle - all good things we have always prioritized and wanted to honor in our kitchen, the "heart of the home".
We both also love intricate mosaics and wanted a creative, artistic backsplash to make our kitchen less of a boiler plate, "classic" white kitchen. This is where our former designer's vision differed from ours. I'll go into those issues in another post below the pictures -
Here is the final sketch Cynthia came up with after many conversations and trials, along with her planned tile colors -
From that sketch, we had many back and forth emails approving the actual mosaic which came to life as she worked on it in her studio in Mass. I'd make suggestions and tiny changes along the way. It is a very difficult thing for an artist to take direction from a non-artist (many simply won't do it!) and Cynthia was wonderfully patient and tolerant to help us arrive at an end product that we would love in our home!
As she worked, she'd send progress pictures for approval to make sure we liked the budding work of art.
- we removed apples from the tree and altered colors a bit. She explained that the grays in the planned grout color would tone down colors at installation. It was a wonderful learning process!
Here is a final "proof" before she put the tiles on backer -
We hired Cindy and her husband to come to our house for the installation. She usually does not do this, but agreed for our project since we were having terrible issues with our GC's tiler and we didn't want these works of art ruined by poor installation. They arrived early one morning, worked all day, stayed one night in a hotel, worked the whole next day and finished. Not inexpensive, but imo we have a true work of art, as the artist intended it to be, as a result!
And, finally, here is the final result for the Tree of Life mosaic installed!
Cindy used tiny pieces of mirror in the Tree mosaic that, along with the blue tree and the Chagall-like birds, lent the mosaic a surreal/fantastical feeling.
A closer look -
This mosaic was created to compliment the Tree of Life mosaic, without being too similar. It was inspired by an actual Chagall lithograph, with the color of the vase being chosen to coordinate with the "Raven" Caesarstone countertop. The "fantasy" feeling found in the tree is not present in these sunflowers and there is no mirror used. The background mosaic beautifully makes the transition between the different feel of each main mosaic.
Here is the inspiration for the sink mosaic - I love how Cindy translated it into mosaic!
Another view of the sink mosaic -
A funny thing is, we focused so much on the two main mosaics that we didn't really focus on what the general background would look like and really LOVED what she did with the curving waves of neutral whites, grays and iridescent tiles!
Here is a long view of each total backsplash to help give the overall effect in the kitchen
And the stove mosaic is perpendicular to the sink mosaic -
Beautiful backsplashclipped on: 04.10.2012 at 09:28 pm last updated on: 04.10.2012 at 09:29 pm