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Trebuchet - ? about HUSH harness or similiar systems

posted by: lisa_a on 01.02.2015 at 06:14 pm in Kitchens Forum

I followed the link to HUSH that you provided on a past thread and looked at the images and read the info. Am I correct in assuming that this harness can be used even when there is little to no space between sink flange and cab side? I really hope so because that's exactly what I hope to do. The plan is to install a Silgranite Diamond Super Single sink in a 37 1/8" cab, which is wider than their recommended min of 36" but because it's up against a corner, the cab opening is only 33 1/8" and I need to cheat the sink as far to the right as possible in order to get several inches between the inside left edge of the sink and the adjacent counter run.

So, can I make this work? Or do I need to either make a compromise in a narrow cab on that same run, find another sink or buy a built-in fridge (talk about an expensive 1 1/2"! *Not* my first choice)?

In case you need it, here's my working plan for that wall.

 photo BAILEYC_ALBERT10211401FULLSETPICS-page-004FridgeA.jpg

I can't figure out how the exterior width of the sink can be 33 1/2" with an interior width of 30 1/2" and only a 1" flange. I based my measurements on a 1 1/2" flange.

Thank you!!


clipped on: 01.03.2015 at 11:33 am    last updated on: 01.03.2015 at 11:33 am

Custom-built sofa?

posted by: Aztec123 on 01.02.2015 at 07:32 pm in Home Decorating & Design Forum

We are working with an interior designer for the first time. As we approach our rather large family room, we have agreed that a big sectional sofa will make the best use of the space and form the core of the room d�cor. We have always assumed we would buy a sofa retail from RH or PB etc, but she is recommending we have one custom-built as it will be faster, fit better, and cost about the same. Any thoughts as to the merits/cost of having one built? Anything in particular we should be specifying in terms of construction or materials? We have to two <7 year old kids and they love to jump on the sofa (no surprise).



clipped on: 01.03.2015 at 08:52 am    last updated on: 01.03.2015 at 08:52 am

Natura Latex Pillow

posted by: holly-kay on 08.14.2014 at 09:19 am in Home Decorating & Design Forum

I love it! Tib suggested it and after I researched many of the pillow suggestions the Latex pillow seemed to be the way to go.

I received it Tuesday and Tuesday evening while I was reading in bed I realized that I wasn't shifting around to find a comfortable position for my head and no damp feeling from an overheated pillow.

The pillow isn't as heavy as my Tempur-Pedic pillows that feel like I am moving a sack of potatoes. The loft is amazing, so much so that the first night I thought it may be too high and I should have checked to see if they had one that had a bit lower profile. I needn't have worried as I slept like a baby.

Bpathome, the pillows that you described must be latex as my pillow is exactly as you described. As soon as I take my head off the pillow it springs right back into shape!

A great big thank you to Tib for recommending a pillow that actually is comfortable!


clipped on: 12.18.2014 at 11:26 pm    last updated on: 12.18.2014 at 11:26 pm

The perfect bed

posted by: holly-kay on 12.18.2014 at 09:50 am in Home Decorating & Design Forum

I have been on a quest for years for the perfect bed. After all these years I finally have it. Excuse the length of this post but so many here are on the same quest that I thought it would be good to share.

The components that I consider part of the perfect bed is:

mattress (imo, the most important)
bed linens
mattress pad

The first perfect component that I found was my mattress. I wanted a Tempurpedic but all of them seemed way too firm. Like lying on wet sand, not comfy at all. I then looked at Sleep Number and I just couldn't commit. I saw an ad in a mag introducing the new Tempurpedic Cloud. That sounded perfect because I like a supportive but soft mattress. After testing at Sleepy's I bought the Cloud Luxe model. The off gassing was awful but when it finally abated I knew I had made the perfect choice as far as the mattress was concerned. I ALWAYS sleep hot but the Cloud wasn't any hotter than my old mattress. This mattress is the perfect combo of softness and support. I sleep the night through and wake with no aches and pains.

I hated the supposedly waterproof mattress protector that Sleepy's insisted you had to have to not void the warranty. It was thin and didn't fit the mattress well there were always crinkles in it that made me feel as though I was sleeping on a ridge of rock but before I addressed that problem I needed new bed linens.

I hate the feel of sateen sheets. Each time I bought a different set it seemed that it was worse than the last. Doing a google search I found a link from GW about the quest for crisp sheets. Thomas Lee sounded good and I requested a sample. They seemed nice but I couldn't pull the trigger on them. Then Violet mentioned how much she loves linen sheets. The RL looked great so again I requested a sample. Hmmmm the strong white looked to be exactly what I was looking for but the price made me gag. I ordered a set of Pima cotton sheets from LL Bean and they were the best so far but still not perfect. Several months went by and I kept pulling my RL sample out and caressing the fabric. I decided to take the plunge knowing this was either the smartest bedding decision I ever made or the most expensive bedding mistake I ever made. The RL website pushed me over the edge and I ordered the summer bed set in strong white. The set was beautifully tied with grosgrain ribbon and smelled heavenly because of the lavender sachet that was included. Once they went on my bed I knew I had a winner.

My pillows were driving me crazy. I was using down pillows but they flattened and weren't comfortable after a short period of use. Then I tried, what seemed like, every memory foam pillow made including the very expensive Tempurpedic pillows that I bought with my mattress. They were so hard it was like resting my head on a block of granite. They all made my head so hot that I couldn't sleep. My final memory foam pillow was one with a cooling gel pad in it. This was better but still not good. I posted about pillows here and Tib suggested the Natura Ultimate Latex pillow. I ordered one to make sure I liked it before ordering a second one. I loved it the first night but it seemed just a tad high but by the second night I knew I had a winner.

My last purchase was a new mattress pad. This was the easiest purchase. I saw a pad carried by The Company Store. It was supposed to be a cooling mattress pad because of the way it was manufactured. Since I always sleep hot this sounded perfect because it wicks the moisture away keeping you cooler. From the first night it was a winner.

I now have the perfect bed. The last thing I purchased to add even more comfort was a very quiet air circulator to help keep me cool in the summer.


clipped on: 12.18.2014 at 10:32 pm    last updated on: 12.18.2014 at 10:33 pm

Towels and sheets

posted by: dahoov2 on 12.08.2014 at 12:19 pm in Home Decorating & Design Forum

I'm redoing my bedroom and getting a new King bed so I need sheets etc. I am also adding a new master bath.

Looking for: Turkish or 100% Egyptian cotton FLUFFIEST 700-900g bath SHEETS I can get. Anyone know where I can find these? Looking for an hour now. I see bath towels but not the larger sheets.

Also looking for something "different" in a sheet. I have had for 35 years now plain sheets. Is there anything with a design in it that's not just plain or striped? LOL I am particular on sheets and towels. I will buy inexpensive everything else but to me, you don't skimp on sheets and towels. COMFORT is where it's at. So I want 600-800 100% Egyptian cotton on this. I see all the time these 1000TC sheets which are GARBAGE. THIN. No sateen or Pima. I see patterns aren't in, but something a little pattern would be nice!


clipped on: 12.12.2014 at 12:05 am    last updated on: 12.12.2014 at 12:05 am

Mattress Poll- reviews of recent mattress purchases

posted by: tinker1121 on 11.01.2014 at 07:16 am in Home Decorating & Design Forum

For those of us in need of replacing our mattresses and currently shopping and still navigating the mattress jungle, thought it would be helpful to do a poll and have a compact thread to refer to. There is a ton of information out there on the and other sites but make your head spin after about 30 minutes when you go completely into info overload.

Though I appreciate all the information on great experiences with special order latex mattresses and specialty retailers etc., please post your experiences, likes and dislikes with mattresses purchased in the last year at a local retailer.

Thanks very much!


clipped on: 11.25.2014 at 06:46 am    last updated on: 11.25.2014 at 06:46 am

Undermount sink keeps separating from granite

posted by: stnjan on 12.16.2007 at 07:06 pm in Kitchens Forum

We recently had granite installed in our kitchen and our stainless steel undermount sink keeps separating from the granite and falling. The first time it happened was about a week after our granite was installed. Our contractor came out, sealed it again, and said we definitely should not have any additional problems. Well, here we are two months later and the sink fell again tonight. We are going to call him in the morning, but does anyone know what the is doing wrong?


clipped on: 11.20.2014 at 11:37 pm    last updated on: 11.20.2014 at 11:37 pm

RE: X-post - How to tell good quality furniture? (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: my3dogs on 10.10.2014 at 06:48 pm in Home Decorating & Design Forum

I agree with pal above on it being difficult or impossible to find a quality leather sofa for under $2000, unless you find a good brand on Craigslist or similar. I've posted this before, but here are some leather furniture manufacturer ratings.

Here is a link that might be useful: Top Brands of leather furniture


clipped on: 10.20.2014 at 01:05 am    last updated on: 10.20.2014 at 01:05 am


posted by: forboystoo on 04.27.2014 at 02:28 pm in Home Decorating & Design Forum

I'm so in love with all the waterlogue photos.
I think I'm at the edge of buying an ipad just to be able to take photos.
Have any waterlogues your willing to share ???

Here is a link that might be useful:


clipped on: 10.20.2014 at 12:47 am    last updated on: 10.20.2014 at 12:47 am

Cleaning a Bluestar oven

posted by: cspinto on 08.03.2007 at 04:26 pm in Appliances Forum

I've stepped up to the edge, about to order a Bluestar 48" range in a gorgeous, rich, blue. I need help taking the final plunge because I absolutely hate cleaning ovens. The fumes, gunky foam, wads of paper towels, gallons of rinse water, ok, I'll concede it's possible that I'm overreacting but I really do hate the job.
I frequently roast a chicken at high temp or start off beef at 450 to sear, both of which produce a lot of grease splatter on the walls of my current (self-cleaning)oven. I don't bake much because I'm never sure what the temp is going to be, not to mention the misshapen, un-level racks. I'm hoping the Bluestar will inspire me to at least throw in a batch of cookies from time to time.
So how often do you have to clean your Bluestars and how difficult is it?


clipped on: 08.22.2014 at 09:42 pm    last updated on: 08.22.2014 at 09:42 pm

RE: Window cleaner with cornstarch? (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: measure_twice on 03.06.2013 at 12:17 pm in Kitchens Forum

OK, so I got all inspired and followed the recipe and tried it with black-and-white newspaper on the two worst glass panes in the house - the kitchen window over the sink and on the bathroom mirror. The exact mix varies a bit, here is the one I used from Battle of the Homemade Glass Cleaners:
1/4 cup white vinegar
1/4 cup 70 percent rubbing alcohol
1 tablespoon corn starch
2 cups warm water

Spray. Scrub. Wipe. And...

Holy toothpaste, Batman!

The window is so clear it looks like it evaporated, like it does not exist. Open air. You could put your hand through.

The mirror is eerie. It shows no surface dust to give you a clue it exists. It really looks like there is an opening into another room and there's a strange guy standing in that room. Oh crud, do I really look like that?


clipped on: 08.19.2014 at 06:51 am    last updated on: 08.19.2014 at 06:52 am

Dirt Bombs...

posted by: solsthumper on 03.06.2007 at 08:41 pm in Cooking Forum

Stacy and Annie, kids of all ages love these, it's a cross between a cinnamom sugar doughnut and a muffin. Enjoy.

Dirt Bombs
Yields: 12 muffins*

3 cups AP flour, minus 3 tablespoons
1 tablespoon baking powder
½ teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon ground nutmeg
¼ teaspoon ground cardamon
¾ cup (1 ½ sticks) unsalted butter
1 cup granulated sugar
2 large eggs
1 cup whole milk **

Topping ***

¾ cups unsalted butter, melted
½ cup granulated sugar
1 ½ teaspoons ground cinnamon

Preheat oven to 400º F. Place the rack in the center position. Generously grease a 12-cup standard muffin pan.

Sift the flour, baking powder, salt, nutmeg and cardamon into a mixing bowl. In another bowl, cream the butter and sugar until light and fluffy. Scrape the bowl down half way through. Mix in the eggs. Add the dry ingredients alternately with the milk in two additions, mixing gently by hand to incorporate all the flour. The batter will be on the stiff side, but airy. Don’t over mix or beat the batter as this will make the muffins tough. Spoon the batter into the prepared pan, without smoothing the tops. Bake for about 25 minutes or until a cake tester inserted in the center comes out clean. As soon as the muffins are cool enough to handle, turn them out onto a wire rack.

Add the melted butter to a bowl. In another bowl, mix the sugar and cinnamon.
Dip the muffins (top, sides and bottom) in the butter, using a pastry brush -if necessary- to cover areas not buttered by dipping. Immediately roll the muffins in the cinnamon sugar mixture. Serve warm or at room temperature.

*I've made this twice, and both times, this recipe has yielded 16 muffins instead of 12.
**I substituted whole buttermilk for whole milk because I always have it on hand and prefer it for baking.
*** The amounts listed for the sugar and cinnamon are not quite enough to coat all the muffins, so I recommend you double it.



clipped on: 03.08.2014 at 08:56 am    last updated on: 03.08.2014 at 08:57 am

Really fantastic broom - I know it exists

posted by: GWlolo on 08.19.2013 at 10:09 am in Kitchens Forum

Hoping someone here can help me find it. Several years ago, we rented a vacation home that had a broom that was fantastic. Picked up the finest dust and crumb in a single sweep. It was not plastic or plant fiber.. It seemed to be some sort of a hair. It had a nice hardwood handle. I even gushed about it to the home owners and asked them. They said it was from Germany. I had forgotten all about it until last night when DH and I were making a list of supplies for the house and he happened to remember the broom. Does anyone have any clues?


clipped on: 09.19.2013 at 08:15 pm    last updated on: 09.19.2013 at 08:16 pm

Documenting our Remodel

posted by: Andrew.K on 09.05.2013 at 05:03 pm in Kitchens Forum

Although this is my first official post, I have been lurking around this forum since deciding to remodel our kitchen last December. The advice given and opinions offered here have been a great help. Our remodel is now underway, and I thought folks thinking of embarking on a remodel might find it helpful to follow along. I plan to update the site regularly, in diary fashion. The link is below.


Here is a link that might be useful: A Consuming Life


clipped on: 09.07.2013 at 11:25 pm    last updated on: 09.07.2013 at 11:25 pm

Paper Towels--To Those With Built In Holders

posted by: 2LittleFishies on 06.08.2012 at 08:53 pm in Kitchens Forum

For those that have these.... do you still like them? Is it an issue with dirty/wet hands grabbing the towels (dirtying cabs and/or getting them wet)??

Would you do it again?

beagles I think?-




clipped on: 08.17.2013 at 10:45 pm    last updated on: 08.17.2013 at 10:45 pm

RE: Tile Installed-- Does this look right? (Follow-Up #19)

posted by: ctycdm on 08.06.2013 at 04:50 pm in Kitchens Forum

Agree, looks much better on the long shot! The close up made it look like huge, 1/2" grout joints. Sometimes we zoom in and dwell on the smallest details, when we just need to stand back and look at the big picture...very pretty backsplash. Now I'll add my two cents - consider the Lutron "Claro" screwless switch plate covers, they look so clean, especially in the kitchen...


clipped on: 08.06.2013 at 07:07 pm    last updated on: 08.06.2013 at 07:07 pm

RE: fabrication soon...what do i need to know? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: williamsem on 07.27.2013 at 12:02 am in Kitchens Forum

I had a whole list based on the bad experiences here! The guy was so nice, and was a little confused as to why I asked about some things that he considered standard.

-What is there tolerance for gaps at the wall or cabinet?
-How is the bottom edge treated? (I wanted to make sure it was rounded/eased not left rough)
-What depth overhang do they recommend? (Or clearly specify what you want)
-What radius will they use for the corners?
-If you want a zero reveal sink cut out, ask if they can do that. My place does it routinely, which I was glad to hear. If they waffle about being able to make it look right, you might be happier in the end to chose something different than have a crappy cut to stare at.
-if you will have a seam, ask about what to expect while they are there
-if you have any little odd things, like an edge that sticks out past a wall or cabinet, or overlaps trim, etc ask how that will be treated
-how do they secure the sink?
-make sure you give them the sink, faucet, and anything going in a hole in the granite. My place took the sink and air switch, but were very familiar with my faucet so they left it with me.
-review where any holes are going and their size
-ask what you need to do to prepare for install. I was told I only need to remove my top drawers, but they didnt even have me do that on the day they came (my cabs do have full tops, so that probably helped)
-how long do you need to wait before using? (I had a sealer applied, so they recommended 24 hours before use, and 48 hrs before leaving anything on the granite for any length of time, plus I think a day for the sink to cure in place)
-if you want to see the template placement, ask about how long that will take and make sure they know you want to see if before cutting

He also discussed cleaning, sealing, and general care with me since I have never had granite before. My place used a luan template, and it came out fantastic. No space at the walls, and I almost thought the range wouldn't fit, but it was perfectly sized.


clipped on: 08.01.2013 at 12:41 am    last updated on: 08.01.2013 at 12:42 am

Over sink cutting boards

posted by: meyersdvm on 06.28.2013 at 10:23 am in Kitchens Forum

Our kitchen reno is finishing up and I am trying to take care of all the final details. We have a Silgranit Performa 1 3/4 sink that I would like to get a cutting board to fit in/over. I saw Blanco's model but have an irrational fear of black walnut (I am a horse vet and it is very dangerous to horses) so would prefer an end-grain cherry or maple board. I found a craftsman to make one for me, but I would like to show him some photos of boards in use. Badgergal posted some a few weeks ago, but her link to photobucket is broken now.
I have the standard 1/8 inch reveal on my sink, but don't have to have a flush mount board. If it fits over the sink and is stable that is fine, too.
Please share any pics of your sink with cutting boards.



clipped on: 07.25.2013 at 04:23 pm    last updated on: 07.27.2013 at 08:24 am

Marble, quartzite and other rocks in the kitchen

posted by: karin_mt on 02.27.2013 at 11:35 pm in Kitchens Forum

The thread about Super White, quartzite, marble and all things stone has run its course up to the 150 post limit. Who knew we'd all have so much fun with that topic? So we'll start a new one here. I guess the first thread was Rocks 101, so this one must be Rocks 102.

I'll reiterate some key points here:

Quartzite and marble are hopelessly (deliberately?) mixed up in the decorative stone industry. My point, aside from just loving rocks, is to help folks learn how to tell the difference between the two so you are not at the mercy of a sales rep when a multi-thousand dollar purchase hangs in the balance.

Quartzite is much harder than marble and will not etch when exposed to acids. You can tell the difference between quartzite and marble by doing the scratch test.

Take a glass bottle with you when you go stone shopping. Find a rough, sharp edge of the stone. Drag the glass over the edge of the stone. Press pretty hard. Try to scratch the glass with the stone.

Quartzite will bite right into the glass and will leave a big scratch mark.
Any feldspar will do the same. (Granites are made mostly of feldspar)

Calcite and dolomite (that's what marble and limestone are made of) will not scratch. In fact you will be able to feel in your hand that the rock won't bite into the glass. It feels slippery, no matter how hard you press.

PS - don't press so hard that you risk breaking the glass bottle. You shouldn't need to press that hard!

That aside, we can talk about other rocks too. Coal, pumice, sparkly crystals, you name it. OK, I guess we're mostly interested in kitchen rocks. :)

Here is a link that might be useful: the lowdown on Super White (aka Rocks 101)

This post was edited by karin_mt on Wed, Feb 27, 13 at 23:41


clipped on: 07.26.2013 at 06:05 pm    last updated on: 07.26.2013 at 06:05 pm

Please post pics of your organized cabinets and drawers

posted by: sanjuangirl on 07.19.2013 at 03:07 pm in Kitchens Forum

We are almost finished with our kitchen, just need to have the island slab installed (next week) and the new wood floors put in. Unfortunately we're doing this backwards and should have decided on wood first so the demo of our tile could have been done before our kitchen renovation; my DH only decided yesterday that we should add it to our budget.

I've decided to start putting some stuff back so we can begin cooking again. I really want to be organized this time around. It's not in my nature but I'm going to make every effort!

Some of the organizational skills here on GW scare me in their thoughtful thoroughness. I'm hoping some of it rubs off on me as I put all of my things back in place.

I would appreciate photos.



clipped on: 07.25.2013 at 12:28 am    last updated on: 07.25.2013 at 12:28 am

RE: Everything I Wanted to Know About Drawers... (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: angela12345 on 02.02.2013 at 02:03 pm in Kitchens Forum

I have posted this other places before, but I am going to try to consolidate it *all* in one place.

My kitchen cabinets from UltraCraft are semi-custom. LOVE them. They are Frameless cabinets that allow size modifications in 1/16" increments to height, width, and depth (or all 3) at no additional cost. So, go ahead and make your uppers 13" or 14" deep for those extra large mixing/salad bowls and charger plates, and maximize your storage space for example storing glasses 4 deep instead of 3 deep. Have deeper base cabinets. Make your toekick slightly shorter so you have an extra inch or two for more drawers height. Cut down on the fillers you need by making your cabinets the exact width you need them, instead of being forced to choose from 3" increments. I like that all my uppers are flat across the bottom (no frame/dividers between cabinets), so I could install one long plugmold and one long under cabinet light, then hide it all with lightrail at the front. Also, standard is Blum full extension soft close drawer glides, soft close doors, no charge for finished sides (like end of cabinet run), all dovetail drawers with fully captured bottoms, and bunches of other stuff is standard. 100 year warranty. Yep, I LOVE them !!!

Cabinet Decisions - I emailed this part to a friend recently, so am copying here ...
1. One of the first things to decide is what cabinet door overlay you want. Inset doors or overlay doors ? Inset doors sit inside of the cabinet box frame rather than attached to the front of the cabinet box. Overlay is further broken down into traditional overlay, partial / modified overlay, and full overlay and determines how much of the cabinet box/frame behind the door you want to show. The hinges can be exposed or concealed for all overlay styles except full overlay which only allows for concealed hinges. The overlay you choose will automatically knock out some cabinet options and cabinet mfgs who may not make that type of cabinet. (My cabinets are full overlay)
See ...
And ...

2. Then you want to decide on the cabinet boxes ... framed or frameless ? Some mfgs only make one or the other, but not both, so this will knock out other mfgs. Framed cabinets have a frame on the face of the cabinet box that the doors attach to and allows for inset doors as well as all 3 overlay styles (traditional, partial, and full overlay). On frameless, the doors attach directly to the cabinet box sides instead of a face frame. Frameless are typically full overlay, but inset is also possible. I think a small partial overlay is possible on frameless if you are using semi-custom or custom cabinets - you would order slightly smaller doors so a little of the cabinet box would show. Traditional overlay is not possible on frameless because the cabinet box sides are not wide enough to show the traditional 1"-2" of the face frame. (My cabinets are frameless)
See ... BOX - construction.asp

The disadvantage of framed is you give up useable space in drawers/pullouts and ease of access on cabinets with doors. This is because the drawer or pullout has to clear the face frame that goes around the opening, so they are narrower from side to side and also shallower from top to bottom. In a small kitchen, the extra useable space from frameless could make a big difference. Estimates say frameless gives 10-15% more space, so 100 inches of framed would be 110 inches in frameless. To me, an extra 10 inches of drawer space is huge, especially when you don't have much to begin with !! Frameless cabinets with doors also offer easier access - there is no face frame creating a 1-2" obstruction on the left, right, and top inside the cabinet doors, also there is typically no center stile between double doors in frameless.

For full overlay doors, there is very little difference in the looks of framed vs frameless. From an exterior appearance standpoint, these cabinets will basically look alike. Because the doors are full overlay, you don't see much or any of the frame and would have to open the door or drawer to see if the cabinet was framed or frameless. For inset doors, the framed cabinets would have a wider frame around the door than the frameless cabinet would.

In the below two pics, the cabinet on the left is framed, and the one on the right is frameless. Looking only at the size of the opening, see how the drawer for frameless is wider from left to right and also has more open space from top to bottom. The useable drawer space is a couple inches more in each direction in the frameless. If they both had the same size full overlay exterior drawer face on them, they would look alike from the exterior. You would not be able to see the useable interior space until you opened the drawer. If they both had inset doors, the framed cabinets would have a much wider "frame" around the door and drawer.

3. The third thing to consider is the cosmetics ... the door style you like, the drawer style (slab/flat/plain drawer front or drawer front that matches your door style), as well as wood species (cherry, oak, maple, etc), and stain or paint colors, glazing, distressing, finish/sheen, etc. (My cabinets are slab drawer, raised panel door, cherry with a chestnut stain, no additional finishes or glazes)
This website shows just a few of the different door styles available ... DOOR - style.asp

4. The fourth thing to consider is stock cabinets vs semi-custom vs custom cabinet mfgs. Stock cabinets are available in 3" width increments (cabinets have to be width of 12", 15", 18", etc), filler strips fill in gaps between cabinets and wall or appliances, you have to choose from the heights and depths they offer, and there are very few options available, which can be pretty pricey to add on. Semi-custom cabinets vary by manufacturer in what customizations and options they offer, but they offer many more options than stock and allow sizing modifications. With custom cabinets, there should be no limitations including drawings for non-standard items, custom molding profiles, door styles, alternate wood species, custom stains & finishes, construction, accessories and options. (My cabinets are semi-custom)

5. Finally, you want to consider the cabinet construction. Not that this is the least important ! It is one of the most important things. Pretty much all the other stuff is just the "pretty" stuff, LOL. This has to do with how well the cabinets are made - are the drawers stapled, dowelled, glued, dovetail ? What materials are the cabinets made of ? etc, etc.

Drawer depths
My bases are 24" deep bases and are all 20" useable interior from front to back. I'm pretty sure I could have (and definitely should have!) requested the drawers be an extra 1-2 inches deep to fill up the inside of the cabinet. I *think* the full extension glides would not have pulled out that extra inch or so, but I could have lived with that !! I could have fit my 8qt stock pots 2 deep front to back in the drawer instead of having to offset them slightly in the drawer if I had even an extra 1/2".

Some people choose to have their base cabinets deeper from front to back for a number of different reasons, for example to make the front of the cabinet even with the front of the refrigerator so the standard fridge looks like a built in/counter depth. Or they may want a larger countertop work surface. This can be accomplished by using deeper base cabinets or by using standard 24" deep bases and installing them a couple inches out from the wall then covering the full space with the countertop material. If you want to do this and order deeper bases, be sure to specify the drawers are deeper from front to back as well ! Some mfgs will still only install the standard depth drawer even though the cabinet box is larger.
(in pics below, my two standard $500 ea fridges look counter depth by recessing the wall behind the fridges only)

Drawer Heights
You can get a number of different drawer combinations ... for example two drawer could be 6-24 or 15-15, three drawer could be 6-12-12 or 6-9-15, four drawer could be 6-6-6-12 or 6-6-9-9, five drawer could be 6-6-6-6-6. These are just examples of size combinations ! I have even seen linens in 8 shallow pullouts behind doors in one base cabinet.

The height of my drawer fronts do not line up all the way around the 4 sides of my kitchen, but do line up when you are looking at any one section at a time. I have 2 stacks together that are 6-12-12 separated by a stove. On the opposite corner of the kitchen are 2 stacks that are 6-6-9-9. What helps is that my stacks are caddy-cornered across the kitchen with appliances and base cabinets with doors separating them ... it would be very hard to look in any direction where you could see the "mis-matches" at one time. Some people have drawer stacks right next to each other where the drawer heights do not 'line up' and others have all the drawer bases in their entire kitchen with the exact same horizontal lines all the way around.

My one advice ... find out the interior useable height of your drawers ahead of time. My Ultracraft cabinets are frameless so have more than framed would. They have undermount glides. On the 6-12-12 stacks, the useable interior drawer height is 4, 10.5, 9.5 (top to bottom on stack). Where this becomes an issue ... I wanted to store all of my pans, pots, etc vertical on their edges in the drawers so they wouldn't have to be stacked. The middle 10.5" drawers are tall enough for all of the casserole/baking dishes and pie tins, the roasting pan, and almost all of the pans, pots, and lids to stand on edge (the 9.5" drawers are not tall enough for a couple of those items to stand on edge). Both height drawers are definitely tall enough for all of the big pots (even the 8qt stockpot) that I own, except for the huge "canning" pot which is on the top shelf of one of my 15" deep uppers.

Obviously, neither drawer is tall enough for my 12" pans/skillets to stand on edge (arrggh!). I have really been struggling with how to store these. Right now I have them flat in the bottom of the 9.5" height bottom drawer. Big waste of real estate !! I wish I had a shallower drawer I could put the big skillets in, like 6-6-6-12 so the frying pans were flat in drawers 2 & 3 and the pots were in the bottom drawer. Or even better(?!) if I had made my drawer heights 6-9-15 that would have given me 4, 7.5, 12.5 useable. My tallest 8qt pots are 7" tall, so all of them could have gone in the middle drawer and everything on edge could have gone in the bottom drawer (including the 12" skillets!). Google for images of drawers with pans on edge.

On the other side of the kitchen with the 6-6-9-9 stacks, the useable interior drawer height is 4, 4.75, 6.75, 7 (top to bottom). I use the top 6" drawers all around the kitchen for silverware, spatulas and all the other kitchen gadgets, in-drawer knife block, foil wax paper cling wrap and plastic baggies, potholders, dish towels, etc. All of those things fit with no problem in these drawers including the ladle and the box grater. The 3rd drawer holds all of the tupperware and is the perfect height for this - 6 would have been too shallow and 12 would have been too deep. The bottom drawer is where we currently keep the paper and plastic grocery bags until we carry them for recycling.

(note: the interior drawer heights listed above vary slightly for the bottom two 12" drawers, the top two 6" drawers, and for the bottom two 9" drawers because of an interior cross support and space to clear the granite without scraping at the top)

ALSO: the drawer face to interior useable space ratio will be DIFFERENT depending on if your drawer face is inset, partial overlay, or full overlay, and depending on if you have undermount glides or sidemount glides as catbuilder says above. For example on my 6-6-9-9 four drawer stack ... 1.5" counter + 6 + 6 + 9 + 9 + 4.5" toekick = 36" finished height. My useable heights are 4, 4.75, 6.75, 7 = 22.5" total useable height. I lose 1.25-2.25" useable height for each drawer.
Compare to quiltgirl above inset drawers ... 1.5" counter + 5.5 + 5.5 + 6.25 + 6.25 + 4.5 toekick (assumed) = 29.5". Are her cabinets shorter than mine ? No ! Add in between each of her drawers approx 1.25" face frame. She has undermount glides as well so her useable heights are 4, 4, 4.75, 4.75 = 17.5" total useable height. She only loses 1.5" useable height for each drawer face showing so it sounds like she is losing less, but she is also losing useable height in the face frame between each drawer which is why her total useable space is less.
This is FINE !! Nothing at all against her cabinets. They will be beautiful. And she knew she was going to lose space with the inset when she chose them, but chose to do it because inset is the look she loves.

Drawer widths
The maximum cabinet width my manufacturer will do for drawer bases is 36" wide. I have 4 drawer bases at 21", 32", 17", and 36" wide. The interior useable width of these drawer bases are 18, 29, 14, 33 wide, so 3" less than the exterior width in each.

Going around my kitchen ... first I have a 6" wide pullout broom closet. Next are two 30" wide fridge/top freezers. There are full depth cabinets above the fridges with an adjustable shelf. Then a 24" full height cabinet with pantry space at the top, MW, a single oven, and 6" high drawer under oven (4.5" useable height).

The 21" 3 drawer 6-12-12 is to the left of my stove. Top drawer holds knife block, sharpener, scissors, trivets, potholders. 2nd drawer holds baking dishes on their edge. Bottom drawer is basically empty - it has one 8qt stockpot. If my drawer heights had been 6-9-15 instead (did I say grrrr?), I would have used the middle drawer as a bread drawer and stored the bakeware on edge in the bottom drawer.

Next is the stove (Whirlpool GGE388LXS Electric Range w/Dbl ovens).

The 32" 3 drawer 6-12-12 is to the right of the stove. Top drawer holds spatulas, spoons, ladles, wood spoons, basting brushes, meat thermometer, etc - things that are used at the stove. 2nd drawer holds frying pans, the smaller pots (1qt 2qt 3qt), and lids all on their edges. Bottom drawer holds 8qt pots. Also, the 12" skillets with lids, splatter screens, and griddle are all stacked in one stack flat in bottom of drawer, Grrrrrrr. If they were in the drawer with the other frying pans instead of taking up real estate here, that lone 8qt pot in my other cabinet would have been here with the other pots.

Turn the corner and next is the first dishwasher and then a 36" sink base with Ticor S405D sink (70/30 double bowl). LOVE !!! <3
Turn the corner and next is a 36" wide all door base cabinet (no upper drawer) with full depth adjustable shelves. I use this base cabinet for all my small appliances - blender, beaters, toaster, George Foreman, elec can opener, etc. Next to this base cabinet is the second dishwasher, followed by an 18" prep sink base with a Ticor S815 14x15x8 sink, and an empty space for an ice maker which is where the trash can currently resides.

The 17" 4 drawer stack 6-6-9-9 sits between the trash area/future ice maker and the peninsula and is on the opposite corner of the kitchen from the other drawer bases. The top drawer holds foil, wax paper, cling wrap, plastic baggies, chip clips, and restaurant menus. The 2nd drawer is our "junk" drawer and has some of everything including screwdrivers, clothespins, matches, flashlights, sewing kit, lint brush, etc. The 3rd drawer holds medicine, bandaids, alcohol, peroxide, as well as dish towels and plastic utensils from takeout restaurants in a tub. The bottom drawer is for "tupperware without partners" - bowls and lids with no matches (haha!).

The 36" 4 drawer stack 6-6-9-9 forms the peninsula. The top drawer holds all eating utensils (silverware and kid utensils), serving utensils, chopsticks, handheld can opener, wine opener in a strategically easy-to-access location : ), etc. The 2nd drawer holds all the other kitchen gadgets that aren't to the left and right of the stove like shrimp deveiners, graters, whisks, rolling pin, pizza rolling cutter-thingy, mashers, salad tongs, etc, etc. The 3rd drawer holds tupperware with their matching lids. The bottom drawer holds paper and plastic grocery bags until we carry them for recycling.

I don't like lazy susans or corner cabinets, so in the blind corner is a 26" all door base cabinet that opens out the backside to where the barstools sit.

We went with the same size handle for all of our drawers and also only one handle in the center for all of the drawers, no matter what the width of the drawer. They are 4" wide. We maybe would have used different widths, but the ones we liked in the finish we wanted did not come in a bunch of widths. The cabinet guy said they would look fine and they do. We have slab drawer fronts and the pulls are centered top to bottom and side to side on each drawer. We used round knobs on all doors.

Drawer Organizers
We ordered the drawer divider channels from Lee Valley so we could completely customize the interior of our drawers. They often have free shipping on orders over $40.
Google for images - lots of gardenweb members have used these.
Take inventory of the things you will be storing in the drawers & doors. Measure it all and plan ahead where things will go. From the FAQs that Buehl put together ...

These are not my cabinets ... examples of pans stored vertically ...

This is my kitchen ...
 photo 4-5-11-kitchen.jpg
A note on our kitchen ... this home is a vacation rental oceanfront beach house with 8 bedrooms, 6 baths, that sleeps 26. Hence the 2 fridges, 3 ovens, 2 dishwashers. We had a large portion of our family here at Thanksgiving (32 people) and had like 7 or 8 women working to prepare the feast all at one time. Thank you Gardenweb for helping design a kitchen that WORKS !!!

This post was edited by angela12345 on Sun, Feb 3, 13 at 14:36


clipped on: 07.20.2013 at 12:41 am    last updated on: 07.20.2013 at 12:41 am

RE: What do you use your island outlets for? (Follow-Up #10)

posted by: labbie on 06.27.2013 at 07:32 am in Kitchens Forum

We use ours every day, although nothing is permanently plugged in there. We prep most of our food there, and DH does smoothies every morning.
I love having it for either my food processor, Kitchen Aid mixer, and the crockpot when it's used.
Our contractor was able to use strips that are slightly recessed into the upper part of the cabinet so that the outlets are hidden by the countertop edges and aren't visible. I'll try to post a photo of them pre countertop- there is the same strip on the other end of the island, that does not have the corbels (i.e. standard counter overhang) and it also is hidden from view.


island outlet
clipped on: 06.29.2013 at 09:49 am    last updated on: 06.29.2013 at 09:49 am

RE: Neighborhood Gathering at our house - help! (Follow-Up #41)

posted by: hobokenkitchen on 06.15.2013 at 11:04 am in Kitchens Forum

Pimms is gin based which is weird because I loath gin, but love Pimms! You buy a bottle of Pimms and mix it 1 part Pimms to 3 parts fizzy lemonade (I used Sprite Zero) or ginger ale.

Chop up a cucumber into smallish chunks - I slice (not too thin) and then quarter them. Then slice up a bunch of strawberries and slice an orange or two. Put it into the Pimms - throw in a few sprigs of fresh mint and some ice and it's done! Takes 5 minutes and can be done directly before serving.

It's light, refreshing, looks really pretty with all the fruit slices and the fruit tastes great infused with the Pimms.

I highly recommend it as a fun, quicker (and very British) Sangria alternative.


clipped on: 06.15.2013 at 08:47 pm    last updated on: 06.15.2013 at 08:49 pm

RE: Most useful Kitchen Cabinet add- ons (Follow-Up #16)

posted by: annkh on 05.20.2013 at 08:37 pm in Kitchens Forum

Carol, the pullouts above my fridge will be like drawers on their sides. When pulled out, they will be accessed from the side. I plan to store cereal boxes on one side, and paper products (paper towels, napkins, tissues) on the other.

It will be sort of like this (except mine won't have a shelf above).
 photo abovefridge_zpsc929bd52.jpg


clipped on: 05.23.2013 at 12:11 am    last updated on: 05.23.2013 at 12:11 am

RE: KAW Margarita Edition (Follow-Up #16)

posted by: breezygirl on 05.09.2013 at 10:22 pm in Kitchens Forum

Updated OP to add Party Pitcher sizes.

---------------------------------------------------------------------- ----

This new recipe is light and refreshing! Very subtle and sparkling.

Sparkling Ginger Margaritas

2 sliced ginger root as thick as a quarter, coarsely chopped
1 fresh kaffir lime leaf, cut in half where leaf is indented (optional)
1 1/2 oz blue agave blanco tequila
1/2 oz fresh lime juice
1/2 oz orange Curacao or triple sec
1/4 ginger agave syrup*
Sparkling wine, such as cava

In bottom of cocktail shaker, middle ginger slices and lime leaf until ginger is coarsely mashed. Shake with 6-10 ice cubes. Pour into 6-oz martini glass. Top with sparkling wine. Bruise remaining half of lime leaf by slapping between palms of hands to release aroma. Float on drink.

*Ginger agave syrup
Combine 1/2 C light organic agave syrup with 2 T water in small saucepan. Set over medium heat and add 1/4 C finely chopped ginger (no need to peel). When mixture simmers, time 2 minutes, then remove from heat and cool to room temp. Strain. Keep in fridge for up to a month.

Party Pitcher
16 slices ginger as thick as a quarter, coarsely chopped
8 fresh kaffir lime leaves
1 1/2 C tequila as above
1/2 C fresh lime juice
1/2 orange Curacao or triple sec
1/4 C ginger agave syrup*
Sparkling wine, such as cava

In the bottom of pitcher, muddle the ginger and half the lime leaves until ginger is coarsely mashed. Add tequila, lime, Curacao, and ginger agave. Refrigerate 2 hrs. Fill cocktail shaker with ice and 2/3 C margarita mixture. Shake and serve as above in glass with cava and bruised lime leaf.


Next week is Black Currant-Rhubarb Margarita!


clipped on: 05.22.2013 at 10:45 pm    last updated on: 05.22.2013 at 10:45 pm

RE: KAW Margarita Edition (Follow-Up #14)

posted by: breezygirl on 03.13.2013 at 08:03 pm in Kitchens Forum

Caliente--oops! But your taste buds will want to marry you.

Marcolo--Totally agree. I'm a pretty modern woman, but my rules are fairly old-school when it comes to kids.

Lalitha--I will post the party pitcher recipes in the OP after the single serving recipes. I keep them in the fridge. In fact, the larger recipes call for mixing and refrigerating in advance anyway. Tangerine juice tastes much better fresh. I'm surprised how short it's holding time is; not like other citrus.

My electric juicer is a Waring commercial unit DH brought me from work. It works better than any others I've tried. I still have my eye on the Cuisinart unit Ina Garten uses, but I haven't seen it IRL to know if it's constructed better. I juice citrus a lot for various savory dishes, dressings, and sauces as well as citrus-based drinks so I give juicers a real work out. Overall, I'm happy with the Waring.

Oldbat--if you ever get to my side of the country, you can choose your margarita! I think you saw how my inspection went on that other thread. Quick.

Williamsem--I think your juice box and coconut rum combo is genius! And soooo much easier to put together at the end of the day than mine.

Bee--I want to try your blood orange margarita too! I'm linking it below in case anybody missed it.

Thanks, Elena and Tmy!

Kay--The tangerine is one of my favorites. I treat my GC so well sometimes. Must be why she doesn't want to work for anyone else. ;) My 3-y.o. wants to run the juicer also, but doesn't quite have the arm strength to do so. She could probably measure though. :)

Here is a link that might be useful: Bee's blood orange margarita


clipped on: 05.22.2013 at 10:44 pm    last updated on: 05.22.2013 at 10:44 pm

KAW Margarita Edition

posted by: breezygirl on 03.12.2013 at 07:56 pm in Kitchens Forum

I'm celebrating passing my final inspection today with margaritas tonight! I've been on a margarita kick since the new year and have tried out a few great recipes. I'm making cocktails based on produce seasonally available. I thought I might share some pics and recipes since I know there are other margarita-philes out there too.

Tangerine Spice

1.5 oz blue agave reposado tequila
1 oz fresh tangerine juice
1/4 oz fresh lime juice
3/4 oz spiced triple sec*
1/4 oz light organic agave syrup

Party Pitcher:
1 1/2 C tequila as above
1 C fresh tangerine juice
1/4 C fresh lime juice
3/4 C spiced triple sec*
1/4 C agave as above
(Mix in pitcher and refrigerate covered for 2 hrs.)

Shake in cocktail shaker with 6-8 ice cubes and pour into glass rimmed in Allspice Salt.*

*Spiced triple sec:
1 cup triple sec
1/4 t cracked black pepper
1 t cracked allspice berries
2 whole cloves, cracked
1/2" piece of cinnamon stick crushed into small bits

A spice grinder comes in very handy for this. Combine in a bowl or bottle, cover and let stand for 24 hours to infuse. Strain out spice bits.

*Allspice salt:
1/4 cup kosher salt
1/4 cup sugar
1 T ground allspice
This makes a lot so you can adjust downwards if you'd like.

Photobucket Pictures, Images and Photos

Meyer Lemon Margaritas

1.5 oz Meyer lemon tequila*
1 oz fresh Meyer lemon juice
3/4 oz triple sec
1/2 oz (or slightly more if you want a bit sweeter) Meyer lemon simple syrup*

Party Pitcher:
1 1/2 C Meyer lemon tequila*
1 C Meyer lemon juice
3/4 C triple sec
1/2 C Meyer lemon simple syrup*
(Mix in pitcher and refrigerate covered for 2 hrs.)

Shake in cocktail shaker with 6-8 ice cubes.

*Meyer lemon tequila:
Use vegetable peeler to remove large strips of zest only in of 8 Meyer lemons. Place in glass jar and cover with one 750-ml bottle of blue agave blanco tequila. Gently jiggle jar a couple of times per day with lid on. Let stand for 4 days and strain.

*Meyer lemon simple syrup:
Use vegetable peeler to remove large strips of zest from 2 Meyer lemons. Place in saucepan with 1 cup sugar and 1/2 cup water. Set over medium heat and stir until sugar is dissolved. When boiling, reduce heat to low and simmer 2 minutes. Cool. Strain.

Photobucket Pictures, Images and Photos

Pineapple Margarita with Jicama, Cucumber and Chile

1.5 oz blue agave reposado tequila
3/4 oz fresh lime juice
3/4 oz triple sec
1.5 oz pineapple puree*

Party Pitcher:
1 1/2 C tequila as above
3/4 C fresh lime juice
3/4 C triple sec
1 1/2 C pineapple puree*
(Mix in pitcher and refrigerate covered for 2 hrs.)

Shake in cocktail shaker with 6-8 ice cubes and pour into glass rimmed with Guajillo salt.* Garnish with cucumber spear and jicama stick, which help counteract the spiciness of the chile salt when munched.

*Pineapple puree:
3.5 cups of 1" pineapple cubes, either from a can or fresh pineapple
1/2 cup sugar
1/2 cup water

Pulse in blender until fruit is finely chopped, then process until smooth and foamy--about one minute. Strain.

*Guajillo salt:
Mix one part crushed or powdered guajillo chile to 2 parts kosher salt. (I couldn't find crushed chile so I bought dried and crushed my own in my spice grinder.)

Photobucket Pictures, Images and Photos

Yes, all of these are a lot of work to make, but the pay off is so worth it. They are absolutely yummy. I make the party pitcher sized recipe instead of mixing them individually. (I can provide those measures if you're interested.) All have held well in a pitcher in the fridge over night if the entire batch wasn't consumed in one evening, although the fresh tangerine juice tastes a little different the next day.

It helps to have a kitchen slave for the juicing. ;)

Photobucket Pictures, Images and Photos

Next week is Sparkling Ginger Margaritas if I can round up some fresh kaffir lime leaves. Going into spring, I'll be looking at a Black Current-Rhubarb combo!

This post was edited by breezygirl on Thu, May 9, 13 at 22:23


clipped on: 05.22.2013 at 10:43 pm    last updated on: 05.22.2013 at 10:43 pm

Posting Pictures

posted by: buehl on 02.11.2011 at 01:48 pm in Kitchens Forum

This thread will describe how to post pictures from a photohosting site, from a PDF file, or from some other location on the web.

First, though, where are your pictures? If they are on your computer only, you will need to upload them to somewhere on the web for the rest of us to see them. I upload pictures to PhotoBucket, but there are other photo-hosting sites available. For example: Picasa, Filckr, Webshots, Snapfish.

  1. Open an account w/PhotoBucket or other photo hosting site.

  2. Take a picture using a digital camera (or film camera, but get your pictures on a disk when they're developed & download them to your computer)

  3. Resize your pictures so they're not too big, generally no more than 400x300 (or 300x400)

    Resize keeping the same proportions so they don't get distorted...i.e., don't specify a specific size, use %-ages or similar

    [You can also often resize pictures at your photohosting site, but it's faster to do it on your computer]

  4. Upload your pictures to your photo account

  5. Find the label that contains the HTML Code link to the picture and copy it

  6. Paste it into the thread's "Message" box (< Ctrl >< V>)

  7. Click the "Preview" button.

  8. You will now see the picture.


clipped on: 04.21.2013 at 09:26 pm    last updated on: 04.21.2013 at 09:26 pm

What's the proper way to judge counter/backsplash, cabinet colors

posted by: wi-sailorgirl on 02.07.2013 at 06:17 pm in Kitchens Forum

Please help. I'm losing my mind. And more than a little sleep. I've googled every combination of words you can think of that might be the magic thing to tell me what to do for my quartz counter. Although I have little bit of time (at least a week, possibly more) to make this decision, I'm sort obsessing about it and I'll feel oh so much better when it's over.

I'm doing the white kitchen thing (please no flames, I know there are strong opinions on this here, but I like what I like) and I know I want quartz counters to go with my Cloud White cabinets, mother of pearl mosiac backsplash and walnut butcher block island. I have samples of at least 7 different white quartz countertops at my house (and an equal number of other colors that I've ruled out -- I'm going to have one hell of a quartz sample collection to share at the end of this). I cannot get any of them to look right at all times. In some cases I didn't bring a larger sample home from the showroom because it looked so awful there, but then I look at the small sample at home and it's not so bad. I know it's all about lighting, time of day and perspective.

So how should I be looking at these? Stack up the cabinet sample, backsplash and counter sample in a pile and look in different lights? Counter samples horizontal and everything else vertical?

It's very hard to approximate what something will look like when it's stacked on top of my gray speckled laminate counter and the counter sample is only 4 inches square. And the lighting issue is huge. What looks good at night sometimes doesn't work during the day and vice versa. And how much do I need to be taking the floors into consideration (they are porcelain tile with lots of grays and tans in them but very warm in color tone). Since I'm not trying to match them, do I need to be considering them when it comes to choosing the counter?

Clearly I've gone off the rails. Guidance as to how to properly evaluate all these choices would be oh so welcome.


clipped on: 04.21.2013 at 08:06 am    last updated on: 04.21.2013 at 08:08 am