Clippings by Maark23

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RE: ordered true Adenium socotranum (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: Maark23 on 08.30.2014 at 01:22 am in Adenium Forum

Excellent gift Kuroc! Here are some tips from a grower in California:. It seems like he treats the plants like bulbs and lets them do their own thing. I know every region is different, but it might help.

"The reason they are so rare in cultivation is mostly because of their previously unknown growth season, which is late Summer and Fall. Or even Winter! Odd for a plant from Socotra.

People were killing them by trying to make them grow in the spring and summer, when they are leafless, and keeping them dry when they needed the water.

I keep them in the shade spring and summer, and wait for them to start growing leaves like a bulb then give it more heat and water."



Socotranum tips
clipped on: 01.01.2015 at 11:16 pm    last updated on: 01.01.2015 at 11:17 pm

RE: Import permit. (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: tapapoi on 04.29.2014 at 01:15 pm in Plumeria Forum

Hi Mark.

To get permits online you have to get an eAuthentication account for USDA sites and have "level 2 access". First register with them and then you have to make an appointment with a Local Registration Authority (LRA) at a USDA Service Center. The site above explains it and you can do a search for the nearest office. It was easy, the LRA person just took info from my driver's license and that was it. It's just to prove that you are who you say you are. Then you can apply for permits online.


clipped on: 04.29.2014 at 09:55 pm    last updated on: 04.29.2014 at 09:56 pm

RE: Importing cuttings into the USA? What's the deal? (Follow-Up #14)

posted by: tapapoi on 04.28.2014 at 10:33 am in Plumeria Forum

Hi Caligirl. Atom Cholpavee is completely reliable. She puts her pictures up on her facebook page which is "Thailand Plumeria". She also guarantees delivery or she replaces them.

She has been selling plumeria internationally for years, and some of the great plumies out there were hybridized or discovered by her. She also supplies retail sellers in the US.


clipped on: 04.28.2014 at 09:57 pm    last updated on: 04.28.2014 at 09:57 pm

RE: Pretty in pink (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: jpaz on 01.13.2014 at 08:43 pm in Cacti & Succulents Forum

Mark, you wrote:

"Very nice! I love those Arrojadoa flowers. I need to get myself some of those."

Thanks, Mark. I don't know what the precise Forum policy is relating to giving away cuttings to fellow members, but if you have difficulty locating this species (and seeing as you live in the US) I will be taking numerous cuttings in a couple of weeks and I can send you a couple.. Inasmuch as they will be approx. 6-9" long and 3/4" dia, they should easily fit into a small box. I will let the cuts callous so they should be ready for shipping sometime in mid-February. Remind me about then if you are interested. In the meantime, Google Arrojadoa rhodantha to learn more about this species.



clipped on: 01.13.2014 at 11:13 pm    last updated on: 01.13.2014 at 11:13 pm

RE: Short and fat.... (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: JV44 on 12.20.2013 at 12:07 am in Adenium Forum

Mark--2 months for the one batch, 10 weeks for the other....all under T5 fluorescent lights. In the spring I want to make a couple more orders for more of these seeds--I don't dare order seeds like these during our brutal MN winters.....although....I gotta admit I received seeds from Laura in VA over a week ago and I know we were having below zero temps at night at the time. And I got excellent germination from her seeds--I have 12 seedlings from 14 seeds so far and they look as healthy as any other adenium seedlings I've had. I just don't have the room for more plants now unless I get another light--and that ain't happening until next summer. I'm toying with the idea of trying home-built solar panels to help cover my electric bill from lights and electric heating mats....ahhhh, the adenium addiction in the semi-arctic USA!

Here's a couple more photos to show the prolific early branching these seedlings are prone to....the first photo shows two 10-week old seedlings of Gold Bracelet. It's difficult to see clearly, but the lowermost leaf on both has three new growths starting!


clipped on: 01.10.2014 at 07:29 pm    last updated on: 01.10.2014 at 07:29 pm

Container Soils - Water Movement & Retention XIV

posted by: tapla on 06.05.2011 at 10:17 pm in Container Gardening Forum

I first posted this thread back in March of '05. Thirteen times it has reached the maximum number of posts GW allows to a single thread, which is much more attention than I ever imagined it would garner. I have reposted it, in no small part because it has been great fun, and a wonderful catalyst in the forging of new friendships and in increasing my list of acquaintances with similar growing interests. The forum and email exchanges that stem so often from the subject are, in themselves, enough to make me hope the subject continues to pique interest, and the exchanges provide helpful information. Most of the motivation for posting this thread another time comes from the reinforcement of hundreds of participants over the years that the idea some of the information provided in good-spirited collective exchange has made a significant difference in the quality of their growing experience.
I'll provide links to some of the more recent of the previous dozen threads and nearly 2,000 posts at the end of what I have written - just in case you have interest in reviewing them. Thank you for taking the time to examine this topic - I hope that any/all who read it take at least something interesting and helpful from it. I know it's long; my hope is that you find it worth the read.

Container Soils - Water Movement and Retention

A Discussion About Container Soils

As container gardeners, our first priority should be to ensure the soils we use are adequately aerated for the life of the planting, or in the case of perennial material (trees, shrubs, garden perennials), from repot to repot. Soil aeration/drainage is the most important consideration in any container planting. Soils are the foundation that all container plantings are built on, and aeration is the very cornerstone of that foundation. Since aeration and drainage are inversely linked to soil particle size, it makes good sense to try to find and use soils or primary components with particles larger than peat/compost/coir. Durability and stability of soil components so they contribute to the retention of soil structure for extended periods is also extremely important. Pine and some other types of conifer bark fit the bill nicely, but I'll talk more about various components later.

What I will write also hits pretty hard against the futility in using a drainage layer of coarse materials in attempt to improve drainage. It just doesn't work. All it does is reduce the total volume of soil available for root colonization. A wick can be employed to remove water from the saturated layer of soil at the container bottom, but a drainage layer is not effective. A wick can be made to work in reverse of the self-watering pots widely being discussed on this forum now.

Since there are many questions about soils appropriate for use in containers, I'll post basic mix recipes later, in case any would like to try the soil. It will follow the Water Movement information.

Consider this if you will:

Container soils are all about structure, and particle size plays the primary role in determining whether a soil is suited or unsuited to the application. Soil fills only a few needs in container culture. Among them are: Anchorage - a place for roots to extend, securing the plant and preventing it from toppling. Nutrient Retention - it must retain a nutrient supply in available form sufficient to sustain plant systems. Gas Exchange - it must be amply porous to allow air to move through the root system and gasses that are the by-product of decomposition to escape. Water - it must retain water enough in liquid and/or vapor form to sustain plants between waterings. Air - it must contain a volume of air sufficient to ensure that root function/metabolism/growth is not impaired. This is extremely important and the primary reason that heavy, water-retentive soils are so limiting in their affect. Most plants can be grown without soil as long as we can provide air, nutrients, and water, (witness hydroponics). Here, I will concentrate primarily on the movement and retention of water in container soil(s).

There are two forces that cause water to move through soil - one is gravity, the other capillary action. Gravity needs little explanation, but for this writing I would like to note: Gravitational flow potential (GFP) is greater for water at the top of the container than it is for water at the bottom. I'll return to that later.

Capillarity is a function of the natural forces of adhesion and cohesion. Adhesion is water's tendency to stick to solid objects like soil particles and the sides of the pot. Cohesion is the tendency for water to stick to itself. Cohesion is why we often find water in droplet form - because cohesion is at times stronger than adhesion; in other words, water's bond to itself can be stronger than the bond to the object it might be in contact with; cohesion is what makes water form drops. Capillary action is in evidence when we dip a paper towel in water. The water will soak into the towel and rise several inches above the surface of the water. It will not drain back into the source, and it will stop rising when the GFP equals the capillary attraction of the fibers in the paper.

There will be a naturally occurring "perched water table" (PWT) in containers when soil particulate size is under about .100 (just under 1/8) inch. Perched water is water that occupies a layer of soil at the bottom of containers or above coarse drainage layers that tends to remain saturated & will not drain from the portion of the pot it occupies. It can evaporate or be used by the plant, but physical forces will not allow it to drain. It is there because the capillary pull of the soil at some point will surpass the GFP; therefore, the water does not drain, it is said to be 'perched'. The smaller the size of the particles in a soil, the greater the height of the PWT. Perched water can be tightly held in heavy (comprised of small particles) soils where it perches (think of a bird on a perch) just above the container bottom where it will not drain; or, it can perch in a layer of heavy soil on top of a coarse drainage layer, where it will not drain.

Imagine that we have five cylinders of varying heights, shapes, and diameters, each with drain holes. If we fill them all with the same soil mix, then saturate the soil, the PWT will be exactly the same height in each container. This saturated area of the container is where roots initially seldom penetrate & where root problems frequently begin due to a lack of aeration and the production of noxious gasses. Water and nutrient uptake are also compromised by lack of air in the root zone. Keeping in mind the fact that the PWT height is dependent on soil particle size and has nothing to do with height or shape of the container, we can draw the conclusion that: If using a soil that supports perched water, tall growing containers will always have a higher percentage of unsaturated soil than squat containers when using the same soil mix. The reason: The level of the PWT will be the same in each container, with the taller container providing more usable, air holding soil above the PWT. From this, we could make a good case that taller containers are easier to grow in.

A given volume of large soil particles has less overall surface area when compared to the same volume of small particles and therefore less overall adhesive attraction to water. So, in soils with large particles, GFP more readily overcomes capillary attraction. They simply drain better and hold more air. We all know this, but the reason, often unclear, is that the height of the PWT is lower in coarse soils than in fine soils. The key to good drainage is size and uniformity of soil particles. Mixing large particles with small is often very ineffective because the smaller particles fit between the large, increasing surface area which increases the capillary attraction and thus the water holding potential. An illustrative question: How much perlite do we need to add to pudding to make it drain well?

I already stated I hold as true that the grower's soil choice when establishing a planting for the long term is the most important decision he/she will make. There is no question that the roots are the heart of the plant, and plant vitality is inextricably linked in a hard lock-up with root vitality. In order to get the best from your plants, you absolutely must have happy roots.

If you start with a water-retentive medium, you cannot improve it's aeration or drainage characteristics by adding larger particulates. Sand, perlite, Turface, calcined DE ...... none of them will work. To visualize why sand and perlite can't change drainage/aeration, think of how well a pot full of BBs would drain (perlite), then think of how poorly a pot full of pudding would drain (bagged soil). Even mixing the pudding and perlite/BBs together 1:1 in a third pot yields a mix that retains the drainage characteristics and PWT height of the pudding. It's only after the perlite become the largest fraction of the mix (60-75%) that drainage & PWT height begins to improve. At that point, you're growing in perlite amended with a little potting soil.

You cannot add coarse material to fine material and improve drainage or the ht of the PWT. Use the same example as above & replace the pudding with play sand or peat moss or a peat-based potting soil - same results. The benefit in adding perlite to heavy soils doesn't come from the fact that they drain better. The fine peat or pudding particles simply 'fill in' around the perlite, so drainage & the ht of the PWT remains the same. All perlite does in heavy soils is occupy space that would otherwise be full of water. Perlite simply reduces the amount of water a soil is capable of holding because it is not internally porous. IOW - all it does is take up space. That can be a considerable benefit, but it makes more sense to approach the problem from an angle that also allows us to increase the aeration AND durability of the soil. That is where Pine bark comes in, and I will get to that soon.

If you want to profit from a soil that offers superior drainage and aeration, you need to start with an ingredient as the basis for your soils that already HAVE those properties, by ensuring that the soil is primarily comprised of particles much larger than those in peat/compost/coir.sand/topsoil, which is why the recipes I suggest as starting points all direct readers to START with the foremost fraction of the soil being large particles, to ensure excellent aeration. From there, if you choose, you can add an appropriate volume of finer particles to increase water retention. You do not have that option with a soil that is already extremely water-retentive right out of the bag.

I fully understand that many are happy with the results they get when using commercially prepared soils, and I'm not trying to get anyone to change anything. My intent is to make sure that those who are having trouble with issues related to soil, understand why the issues occur, that there are options, and what they are.

We have seen that adding a coarse drainage layer at the container bottom does not improve drainage. It does though, reduce the volume of soil required to fill a container, making the container lighter. When we employ a drainage layer in an attempt to improve drainage, what we are actually doing is moving the level of the PWT higher in the pot. This simply reduces the volume of soil available for roots to colonize. Containers with uniform soil particle size from top of container to bottom will yield better and more uniform drainage and have a lower PWT than containers using the same soil with added drainage layers.

The coarser the drainage layer, the more detrimental to drainage it is because water is more (for lack of a better scientific word) reluctant to make the downward transition because the capillary pull of the soil above the drainage layer is stronger than the GFP. The reason for this is there is far more surface area on soil particles for water to be attracted to in the soil above the drainage layer than there is in the drainage layer, so the water perches. I know this goes against what most have thought to be true, but the principle is scientifically sound, and experiments have shown it as so. Many nurserymen employ the pot-in-pot or the pot-in-trench method of growing to capitalize on the science.

If you discover you need to increase drainage, you can simply insert an absorbent wick into a drainage hole & allow it to extend from the saturated soil in the container to a few inches below the bottom of the pot, or allow it to contact soil below the container where the earth acts as a giant wick and will absorb all or most of the perched water in the container, in most cases. Eliminating the PWT has much the same effect as providing your plants much more soil to grow in, as well as allowing more, much needed air in the root zone.

In simple terms: Plants that expire because of drainage problems either die of thirst because the roots have rotted and can no longer take up water, or they suffer/die because there is insufficient air at the root zone to insure normal root function, so water/nutrient uptake and root metabolism become seriously impaired.

To confirm the existence of the PWT and how effective a wick is at removing it, try this experiment: Fill a soft drink cup nearly full of garden soil. Add enough water to fill to the top, being sure all soil is saturated. Punch a drain hole in the bottom of the cup and allow the water to drain. When drainage has stopped, insert a wick into the drain hole . Take note of how much additional water drains. Even touching the soil with a toothpick through the drain hole will cause substantial additional water to drain. The water that drains is water that occupied the PWT. A greatly simplified explanation of what occurs is: The wick or toothpick "fools" the water into thinking the pot is deeper than it is, so water begins to move downward seeking the "new" bottom of the pot, pulling the rest of the water in the PWT along with it. If there is interest, there are other simple and interesting experiments you can perform to confirm the existence of a PWT in container soils. I can expand later in the thread.

I always remain cognizant of these physical principles whenever I build a soil. I have not used a commercially prepared soil in many years, preferring to build a soil or amend one of my 2 basic mixes to suit individual plantings. I keep many ingredients at the ready for building soils, but the basic building process usually starts with conifer bark and perlite. Sphagnum peat plays a secondary role in my container soils because it breaks down too quickly to suit me, and when it does, it impedes drainage and reduces aeration. Size matters. Partially composted conifer bark fines (pine is easiest to find and least expensive) works best in the following recipes, followed by uncomposted bark in the <3/8" range.

Bark fines of pine, fir or hemlock, are excellent as the primary component of your soils. The lignin contained in bark keeps it rigid and the rigidity provides air-holding pockets in the root zone far longer than peat or compost mixes that too quickly break down to a soup-like consistency. Conifer bark also contains suberin, a lipid sometimes referred to as nature's preservative. Suberin, more scarce as a presence in sapwood products and hardwood bark, dramatically slows the decomposition of conifer bark-based soils. It contains highly varied hydrocarbon chains and the microorganisms that turn peat to soup have great difficulty cleaving these chains - it retains its structure.

Note that there is no sand or compost in the soils I use. Sand, as most of you think of it, can improve drainage in some cases, but it reduces aeration by filling valuable macro-pores in soils. Unless sand particle size is fairly uniform and/or larger than about BB size, I leave it out of soils. Compost is too fine and unstable for me to consider using in soils in any significant volume as well. The small amount of micro-nutrients it supplies can easily be delivered by one or more of a number of chemical or organic sources that do not detract from drainage/aeration.

My Basic Soils ....

5 parts pine bark fines (partially composted fines are best)
1 part sphagnum peat (not reed or sedge peat please)
1-2 parts perlite
garden lime (or gypsum in some cases)
controlled release fertilizer (if preferred)

Big batch:
2-3 cu ft pine bark fines
5 gallons peat
5 gallons perlite
2 cups dolomitic (garden) lime (or gypsum in some cases)
2 cups CRF (if preferred)

Small batch:
3 gallons pine bark
1/2 gallon peat
1/2 gallon perlite
4 tbsp lime (or gypsum in some cases)
1/4 cup CRF (if preferred)

I have seen advice that some highly organic (practically speaking - almost all container soils are highly organic) container soils are productive for up to 5 years or more. I disagree and will explain why if there is interest. Even if you were to substitute fir bark for pine bark in this recipe (and this recipe will long outlast any peat based soil) you should only expect a maximum of two to three years life before a repot is in order. Usually perennials, including trees (they're perennials too) should be repotted more frequently to insure they can grow at as close to their genetic potential within the limits of other cultural factors as possible. If a soil is desired that will retain structure for long periods, we need to look more to inorganic components. Some examples are crushed granite, fine stone, VERY coarse sand (see above - usually no smaller than BB size in containers, please), Haydite, lava rock (pumice), Turface, calcined DE, and others.

For long term (especially woody) plantings and houseplants, I use a superb soil that is extremely durable and structurally sound. The basic mix is equal parts of pine bark, Turface, and crushed granite.

1 part uncomposted screened pine or fir bark (1/8-1/4")
1 part screened Turface
1 part crushed Gran-I-Grit (grower size) or #2 cherrystone
1 Tbsp gypsum per gallon of soil
CRF (if desired)

I use 1/8 -1/4 tsp Epsom salts (MgSO4) per gallon of fertilizer solution when I fertilize if the fertilizer does not contain Mg (check your fertilizer - if it is soluble, it is probable it does not contain Ca or Mg. If I am using my currently favored fertilizer (I use it on everything), Dyna-Gro's Foliage-Pro in the 9-3-6 formulation, and I don't use gypsum or Epsom salts in the fertilizer solution.

If there is interest, you'll find some of the more recent continuations of the thread at the links below:


Post XII

Post XI

Post X

Post IX


Post VII

If you feel you were benefited by having read this offering, you might also find this thread about Fertilizing Containerized Plants helpful, as well.

If you do find yourself using soils you feel are too water-retentive, You'll find some Help Dealing with Water-retentive Soils by following this embedded link.

If you happen to be at all curious about How Plant Gowth is Limited, just click the embedded link.

As always - best luck. Good growing!! Let me know if you think there is anything I might be able to help you with.



clipped on: 12.06.2013 at 08:02 pm    last updated on: 12.06.2013 at 08:02 pm

Al's Gritty Mix ingredients - found them!

posted by: No-Clue on 06.26.2012 at 02:18 pm in Plumeria Forum

I have been putting this off for a while because I thought it would be near impossible to find them. But as it turned out I found Turface MVP and A-1 Grit right away. Both stores are very close to me so no problem there.

Ironically Fir Bark was the hardest to find! Who would have thought. I tried the Shasta brand. No luck. Tried the Wonder Bark brand no luck. So finally I just decided to get Repti-bark and be done with it. Now that I have these I actually have more questions.

1. What is that string that is coming out the bottom of the pot. What's that about and do I have to do that?

2. The other part I'm even more confused is the sifting screens. Can I use the ones made for food? I don't know the specific sizes though.

3. What mix do I use for So Cal Zone 10 for Plumerias?

4. Last but not least... do I transfer ALL my plants to this new mix or leave them alone and start w/ the new plants I recently bought?

My Foliag Pro is coming this Friday... and so are all the plants I bought on Ebay.

I'm sorry if these questions have been asked before. I really appreciate all your help! Thanks again!


clipped on: 12.06.2013 at 07:42 pm    last updated on: 12.06.2013 at 07:43 pm

Container Soils and Your Plant's Nutrition

posted by: tapla on 11.02.2011 at 10:42 am in Plumeria Forum

A short while ago I was asked by a friend to comment on thread. I followed it for a while & found a few other threads on the forum that I thought afforded an opportunity for me to be helpful. Rather than spend time debating the merits of certain practices on other threads, I thought I would start a thread where anyone with an open mind can come to discuss all aspects of container culture, but particularly growing media and nutrition.

While some aspects of the plant sciences are open to interpretation and 'individual creativity', a considerable amount can be nailed down solidly. I often run into the phrase, "It works for me", used as though it is a debate ender, but how well something works is extremely subjective. For example, if someone is practicing methods that are quite limiting, then suddenly changes practices to something less limiting, the perception is all is well or, "This works great", never allowing that the new or even the preferred practice is still limiting and can be improved upon with a little better understanding of what's at work.

I've never read this approach to growing anywhere, so you may find my perspective unique: All plants are already pre programmed (genetically) to grow well and look beautiful. The only thing that keeps them from growing well is our inability to provide them with the cultural conditions needed to do so. In most cases, our habits are the factors most limiting to growth and vitality. This is particularly true in the areas of soil choice - nutritional supplementation - light. Light is pretty much a settled issue, but soils and nutrition are very confusing for many. You become a better grower by eliminating or reducing to the greatest degree possible, the limitations under which your plants are growing.

Good growing, like most things done well, does take a little knowledge and effort. If you're happy with the way things are going - there is no need to make the extra effort to read further in order that you might review another perspective; but if you're questioning whether or not there is something that might be done differently to help your plants grow better, this thread will, provide a place to come for suggestions for growing practices rooted in science instead of anecdote.

I understand that statement seems very bold, but all I would ask is that you reserve judgement until you've had the opportunity to hear a little of what I have to say. Having studied soil science, nutrition, and most of the intricacies associated with container culture for more than 20 years, and the (literally) thousands of positive responses I've garnered here at GW alone, has left me pretty confident that anyone wishing to sharpen their growing skills will be able to take at least some things from this thread. If not, there's little lost, it can just be ignored.

OK - that was the lead in. I'll start by saying that you can probably squeeze the most vitality and best growth from your plants if you first concentrate on getting the soil right. Your soil choice is where about 9/10 of your limits arise. You must be able to keep the roots happy if you have any hope of keeping the rest of the plant happy. To do that, focus on the soil's structure, not its ability to deliver nutrients. Nutrition is very simple, most people make it hard on themselves by trying to incorporate too much anecdotal misinformation, shooting themselves in the foot in the process.

Hopefully, this is all I need to do to pique the curiosity of enough readers to get the ball rolling. If not, I can say I tried. ;-) If you knew me, you'd know I'm not doing this for glory or acclaim, I'm doing it very simply because I love to help others. I've maintained a significant presence in the GW community and in my own community for more many years. I lecture widely on the suggested topic(s) I introduced, and look at helping people as a natural extension of my affinity for nurturing plants - sort of nurturing the people who nurture plants.

Thank you for your kind consideration. .... questions/comments?



clipped on: 12.06.2013 at 02:49 pm    last updated on: 12.06.2013 at 02:49 pm

Overwintering a Brug & Brug Cuttings! Helpful Hints! :)

posted by: sibhskylvr on 09.26.2009 at 08:35 pm in Brugmansia Forum

Ok! We've got alot of new people on the forum this year! Yay! We all must be doing something right! Right?? And welcome to each of you! :)

But new people - means many questions! And it's the time of the year we start doing cuttings, bringing in the Brugs for the winter, & overall, we're all pretty busy! You know - the year-end, clean-up stuff! lol! The sharing, trading, & love of the Brug stuff that we all do!

Anyway! (Sorry - I do ramble, ask anyone!) An important topic this time of the year is storing the Brugs for the winter, and hoping to NOT lose any Brug cuttings!

Let's hear how everyone stores their Brugs, start cuttings, etc....

Had to throw in the (etc....) - you never know what bit of information may appear that one can use!

And feel free to ask questions - don't be shy! :)

You may never find the answer if you don't ask!

I've been potting up Brugs that didn't do much this summer for the last two months. I've been getting them ready to take in for the winter! And I'm hoping this thread will give me/you & everyone, a little bit more knowledge on overwintering a Brug plant - versus cuttings! Everyone knows I usually have several hundred cuttings through the winter - but this year, not too many! I'll still do some cuttings - don't get me wrong! I can't imagine going through the winter without all the pain & suffering I go through when I lose one! ;) Most of us know THAT feeling, right?

I've gotten a few helpful hints from two forum members already - via email! Thank you both! :)) I appreciate the info ALOT!! Others may be interested as well! Any information that can be helpful - feel free to post, post a link, etc. Everyone has certain things & ways to take care of their Brug plants, cuttings, etc. A bit of information that doesn't mean anything to you - may be very important to someone else! I mean seriously! How many Brugs cuttings have most of us DROWNED in the past few years! lol! Think about it!

I hope this becomes a thread with tons of information for the new person/people on the forum, lurkers, as well as us old-timers! :) And if you happen to be a lurker - join in & say 'Hello!' Love to have you & get to know you!

Ok! Who wants to start?

Brenda, Lucy, Karyn, Kristy, Brandy, you? :) Anyone?



clipped on: 11.21.2013 at 01:11 am    last updated on: 11.21.2013 at 01:11 am

RE: Seed growing. (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: sultry_jasmine_night on 11.06.2013 at 01:30 pm in Brugmansia Forum

Thanks :) I have 3 of those parkseed biodome plant thingys. I like them for winter seedlings because you can open the tops and let some of the humidity out so the seedlings don't rot. I usually set the biodome on top of a seedling heat mat although I have also been guilty of using the cable box LOL!

During the summer spring or early fall here I can just plant the seeds in seed starter mix and put them in little cups with drainage holes and put them in tupperware with some saran wrap and holes poked in the top or some sort of clear lid. Then I put them in deep shade outside. Keep damp but not soggy. (These are all older pics but for examples) If you write on these little cups with sharpie you can wipe it off with alcohol and wash and reuse the cups.

 photo MonAmourxAFxCharming.jpg

 photo 002.jpg

Once they are a little bigger just pot up to a 4 inch pot then from there they go to 1 gallon then to 3 gallons
 photo AdelinexSMearlyYs.jpg

I use cups or any old thing lol. Just make sure to poke drainage holes.
 photo 2-CSxCandidaPinkxAFxCharming.jpg

This post was edited by sultry_jasmine_night on Wed, Nov 6, 13 at 13:31


clipped on: 11.06.2013 at 10:44 pm    last updated on: 11.06.2013 at 10:45 pm

How to Germinate Plumeria Seeds

posted by: spiritualcipher on 07.01.2007 at 10:26 pm in Plumeria Forum

Hi all!

I started getting into indoor gardening this year and after growing a few houseplants, I am trying to get into Plumerias. i recently ordered a few Plumeria seeds and I would like to know the best way to germinate them. They havent arrived yet but the listing described them at "Pink"

Should I germinate them inside or outside? Do cover them with something to maintain humidity? Would I be better off ordering a cutting? Will they need a heating mat?

I tried growing Bird of Paradise, Rubber Trees, and Heliconia from seed and had no luck at all so I feel a bit discouraged...I really want to get this right!


clipped on: 10.17.2013 at 12:54 am    last updated on: 10.17.2013 at 12:54 am

Greenhouse Tips

posted by: zacman44 on 03.12.2009 at 01:23 pm in Greenhouses & Garden Structures Forum

I thought I would start this thread for sharing those things we have all discovered to be useful relating to our greenhouse activities.

A few to start with:
-cement mixing tubs (about 20"x26"x6") are great for mixing/potting plants. They are under $5 at Lowes (in the cement area - look for black tubs). I have three. Two for potting and one under the bench to store extra pots. These really help contol some of the mess - are very convenient - and you can pour unused soil or potting mix back into your other containers.
-You can make one of those hanging tomato planters out of a 5 gallon bucket. Cut a hole using a door hole bit or something similar. Put screen in the bottom with a slit, then use a couple of coffee filters with a slit, and work the stem into the hole and fill with soil. Be careful, these are heavy - so hang with care. Also, I put one of the store-bought units on a small cable hooked to a pully so I can raise and lower it. . .keeps it out of the way.
-I use shallow plastic bins (about $5 - Target) to put pots in and then I can bottom water by putting some water in the bottom. These also make it easier to move a number of pots around at once.
-those large and deep plastic laundry sinks make great containers for holding soil and other potting mixes under your benches. I found a double concrete deep sink I use for that purpose, but they are the same shape and depth as the inexpensive plastic laundry sinks. They come with legs, so if you have the room you could use them at bench level instead of under the benches. Or, if you just need a sink, that is a rather inexpensive way to go by adding an inexpensive faucet and draining outside . . .
-in the garden, we place those square black trays that flats of plants come in - by placing them upside down - below our tomato plants. You can water thru them because they are open grid-work, they provide some shade for the ground to assist with delaying evaporation, and they help with weeds and finally, they prevent the fruit-and plants from resting directly on the ground.
-If you know when your gh gets coldest at night and you don't have or do not totally trust your heaters thermostat, you can turn the heater up to where you want it, and place it on an expensive timer so that it will turn on and off at the times it gets coldest.
-Finally, I discovered that the intake shutters and exhaust fan work great to cool down the gh, but the air does not really "move" my plants around enough unless they are directly in-line with the intakes. So I am trying to design a system of "vanes" or "deflectors" which I can adjust to direct the air flow more over the plants and thus get the benefit of the HAF. If anyone has tried this and knows of a way to do this I would be interested.


clipped on: 09.19.2013 at 01:21 am    last updated on: 09.19.2013 at 01:21 am

RE: Excited Newbie to Plumerias (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: No-Clue on 09.01.2013 at 10:02 pm in Plumeria Forum


Here are some vendors that we all love
I have spoken to Carol many times but I have not had the need to order from her yet. Although many here have purchased from them and are very happy.
I have ordered from them twice and both times they exceeded my expectations. So am very happy with their plants as well as their customer service.
A personal favorite vendor simply because John is local and I can go to this green houses and hand pick what I want. I got many many plants from John and I'm happy with all my purchases. If you like oranges, check out his Orange Jack. I recently bought mine and I LOVE it!

You can also find some lovely plants on Ebay from
Matt at 1-stop-aloha or Fuzzy at Bloomingplumerias. Both are very reliable.

I'm sure there are other sources but I can't remember at the moment. Maybe others can jump in and recommend more. :)


clipped on: 09.07.2013 at 01:06 pm    last updated on: 09.07.2013 at 01:06 pm

Adenium Ko seeds

posted by: rcharles on 07.08.2013 at 09:07 am in Adenium Forum

For anyone interested in seeds. I was sent a note that Mr. Ko is having a sale on some of his seeds. He has established great respect with his breeding of select seed.
I understand they are only sold as (15seeds) & (150seeds)
Will try to post thread

http:// www.adenium.comtw/2013price list.htm


seed list
clipped on: 08.04.2013 at 10:57 pm    last updated on: 08.04.2013 at 10:57 pm

RE: Two new ones. (Follow-Up #13)

posted by: pcput on 07.27.2013 at 08:05 pm in Plumeria Forum

Mark, searching today and found a C Star "Red Lady Fades to Purple. Beautiful 2 2 ½” butter yellow eye and shaped like Calcutta star." Though I'd pass it on.


clipped on: 07.29.2013 at 12:54 am    last updated on: 07.29.2013 at 12:54 am

Starting Plumeria seeds in Styrofoam boats in water!

posted by: kasha77 on 02.06.2012 at 08:06 pm in Plumeria Forum

Well I've read that you can speed the germination of Plumeria seeds by floating them in little boats made out of packing peanuts. (Finally, there's another use for those annoying little devils!) I added a drop of Super Thrive to the water, and labeled each peanut with name and date. (Laura, if you look closely, your name is on the little boats in the last pic) Ive heard that they can germinate in 4 days using this method. I'll keep you posted on their progress! :)




clipped on: 07.26.2013 at 06:11 pm    last updated on: 07.26.2013 at 06:11 pm

A little experiment

posted by: spiroan on 06.26.2013 at 04:30 pm in Plumeria Forum

Many of you know I've been growing seeds lately. So, I thought I would tell you about my little experiment. I ordered seeds from Brad's (5 different varieties), and I ended up getting way more seeds than I thought I would.

So, I planted half of them in a potting soil/perlite mixture on May 14th.

Of that batch:
76% germinated
9 days was the quickest one
average days to germinate was a little over 12
last one germinated in 23 days

The other half, I planted in a pot with regular garden soil in it (taken from my garden), because I was too cheap to buy more potting soil. These seeds were planted on May 31st (about 2 1/2 weeks later)

Of that batch so far:

59% have germinated
Earliest was in 17 days
Average days to germinate was 22 days
Last (so far) to germinate was in 25 days

The batches were placed in virtually the same place in my yard, and received about the same amount of moisture (not a lot, except for the initial watering). The second batch got a little more heat, as it has been in the mid-90s lately in DFW. So, I'm assuming the soil was the difference.

Anyway, I've been hearing about how important the right mix is when growing plumeria. And I just wanted everyone to know, at least from my experience, there was a pronounced difference between the potting mix/perlite soil mixture and regular garden soil. Maybe it could've been the extra 2 weeks before I planted the seeds (as I've heard the fresher seeds germinate faster), but my guess is that 2 weeks doesn't make 10 days worth of difference in germination rates.


seed growing tips
clipped on: 07.01.2013 at 09:40 pm    last updated on: 07.01.2013 at 09:41 pm