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RE: Gap between cabinets and ceiling (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: erhm on 04.30.2013 at 08:44 am in Kitchens Forum

We added a soffit to fill the gap between the tops of our cabinets and the ceiling--didn't like the idea of cleaning up there and thought it would look uneven. I think it looks fine--here's a picture:  photo IMG_1724_zpsb6ba103b.jpg


clipped on: 05.16.2013 at 01:19 am    last updated on: 05.16.2013 at 01:19 am

RE: Please show me your front / entry door. (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: degcds on 05.07.2013 at 05:41 pm in Building a Home Forum

Our doors are very similar to Annie's except 4 lit! We love ours, still currently building though!


clipped on: 05.13.2013 at 12:42 am    last updated on: 05.13.2013 at 12:42 am

What is your opinion on pocket doors?

posted by: jenswrens on 10.18.2010 at 09:49 pm in Building a Home Forum

Do you like them or not?

Should I worry about completely rearranging a room to avoid an inappropriate door swing (blocks half of window when open) or just put in a pocket door? It's a bathroom that will be used daily.

I've heard differing opinions on pocket doors. I'd like to hear yours. TIA.



clipped on: 05.13.2013 at 12:35 am    last updated on: 05.13.2013 at 12:35 am

RE: What did you introduce to your GC that impressed them? (Follow-Up #38)

posted by: lee676 on 02.19.2013 at 08:52 pm in Kitchens Forum

Cree's 4" and 6" LED disk lamps that look to all the world like standard recessed lighting, but are so thin and cool-running they don't need to be installed in a recessed housing can, just a slim electrical junction box, like the one holding up your surface-mounted ceiling light. Allows recessed lights to be installed in places they couldn't fit before because ductwork or other obstructions got in the way.

Sold at HD under their "Commercial Electric" brand.


clipped on: 02.19.2013 at 09:21 pm    last updated on: 02.19.2013 at 09:21 pm

RE: If you don't have Upper Cabinets . . . . (Follow-Up #11)

posted by: angela12345 on 01.30.2013 at 04:19 pm in Kitchens Forum

David, you might save a ton of money and have more customized drawers by using Lee Valley dividers.
Lee Valley ...

Pictures installed ...


clipped on: 02.04.2013 at 10:17 pm    last updated on: 02.04.2013 at 10:18 pm

Decisions, decisions..Mother of Pearl vs. White Macubas Smackdown

posted by: tl1969 on 01.29.2013 at 10:50 pm in Kitchens Forum

Well I always enjoy reading everyone else's posts after their stone yard visits, so I thought I would share with all of you my day with my fabricator.

I need to tell my cabinet maker what color white I want my perimeter cabinetry to be, as well as what stain I want the walnut to be on my islands' cabinetry, so I went to the fabricator today to see if we can settle on a stone. I saw the White Macaubas AKA Luce Di Luna first, it was not as white as I had hoped, and had these black splotches that I was not crazy about, but otherwise seemed a good piece.

 photo BrattiWMac_zps92702228.jpg

I had planned to use it on my two islands and as a backsplash behind the cooktop. Because it is so linear, I consider it a more modern looking stone, and thought I could use Quartz on the perimeter, esp. the L countertops, as I don't think the lines can match up well there in the seam. So, I looked at two Ceasarstones, (Cinder on the left and Pebble on the right).

 photo RBrattiWhiteMacWithCeasarstones_zpsaf2b6fd8.jpg

The Cinder has some green undertones and brings that out in the stone, while the Pebble is more edgy with a cooler tone.

The White Macaubas stone had some golden veining in addition to the gray veining
 photo BrattiWmacCloseUpVeining_zps71627055.jpg

Here are the two Ceasarstone Quartz stones in the sunlight
 photo RBrattiCinderPebbleSunlight_zps41b7410d.jpg

But, while waiting for him to type up the price, I discovered this Mother of Pearl Quartzite which kind of took my breath away, it is a mixture of taupe, cream, brown and green (I put styrofoam next to it to give it a white balance)
 photo RBrattiMonteCarloWithStyrofoam_zpsa277953d.jpg

It has some brown spots, which I presume are similar to the rusty gold I saw in the White Macaubas, but I thought it might look good with the walnut cabinetry on the island or in the breakfast bar area.
 photo RBrattiMonteCarloRust_zps1505ec73.jpg

And then I decided to look for quartz that might go well with this stone, if I decided to do the double island and backsplash in natural stone and the quartz on the perimeter countertops
 photo RBrattiMonteCarloChromaHandModels_zpse1513b06.jpg

Not sure this stone lends itself to the quartz option on the perimeter countertops as well as the White Macaubas did with all the modern looking lines. The Pental Chroma Quartz samples (Canyon on the left and Oasis on the right) are being held up to simulate countertops with the Mother of Pearl Backsplash by the forklift operators!

So, I am in a quandary and could use a second opinion.
1. Do you think I should use the Mother of Pearl on the prep island and perimeter countertops and backsplash behind the cooktop, but keep the smaller island top walnut?
2. Or do you think I should do the Mother of Pearl on the two islands and the backsplash but do everything else quartz (which one)?
3. Or should I do the White Macaubas (creamy white with silver and gold veining) on the two islands and the backsplash, with the Ceasarstone quartz (Cinder or Pebble) on the perimeter?
4. I am really psyched to do the backsplash in stone up to the ceiling, behind the cooktop, but I have seen Pipdog's onyx mini subway tile backsplash with the Mother of Pearl countertop and it looks stellar. If I do the Mother of Pearl countertops everywhere then do you think the tile would be a better backsplash?

Just to complicate matters I plan to have a 36 inch stainless steel countertop between the ovens and fridge as a landing zone for things coming out of the oven. This will be on a third wall of my kitchen, and not be part of the action on the L countertops or the islands.

Thanks for reading thus far, and I hope you enjoyed the pics if you are considering White Macaubas AKA Luce di Luna, Mother of Pearl AKA Monte Carlo, or any of the quartz options. The two next to the Mother of Pearl are Chroma Oasis (darker) and Canyon (lighter).

And now, I hope to have dreams of something other than quartzite and kitchens!


clipped on: 01.30.2013 at 01:01 am    last updated on: 01.30.2013 at 01:01 am

New Caesarstone Frosty Carrina & London Gray light marble looks

posted by: blondelle on 01.13.2013 at 09:24 am in Kitchens Forum

It seems these aren't in the states as yet but they both look stunning. The Frosty Carrina is a carrara look and the London Gray looks to have a bit deeper background with marble veining. The FC has longer veining which is more like real marble as opposed to the random spots and veining of the quartz marbles now available. There is also a charcoal one with whitish veining. Here's a video that I think shows the FC and a bit of the deeper one. You can see larger photos of all the colors and what they look like on a counter also at this site. These look to be the most realistic interpretations I've seen.

You can see all the new colors here as well as photos of the new colors and of them in use in the Gallery section.

Has anyone who lives abroad seen them, or at a trade show here?

Here is a link that might be useful: Caesarstone video


clipped on: 01.29.2013 at 09:25 am    last updated on: 01.29.2013 at 09:25 am

Taj Mahal - I think it's ''the one''

posted by: msrose on 01.26.2013 at 05:08 pm in Kitchens Forum

I saw Madre Perla a couple of weeks ago and it's the first thing I've seen that I really love. The problem was it was a grayish greenish color, which was beautiful, but doesn't go with the colors in my house. I walked into a granite place today and right when you walk in the door was this gorgeous slab of Taj Mahal. I knew it was "the one". It obviously was "the one" for several other people, because they had six slabs and all six had a hold on it. The guy told me one woman put a hold on it and then went home and told her best friend about it. The best friend came in and loved it just as much and decided she had to have it also, so she put a hold on it. Then there was a 3rd person that put a hold on it. He told me to find a fabricator and then check back when I'm ready to install to see if they're still on hold, because sometimes people change their mind, so I'm trying to track one down now. I just hope I can afford it now that I've decided it's "the one".




clipped on: 01.27.2013 at 07:13 pm    last updated on: 01.27.2013 at 07:13 pm

francoise_your a genius!!!

posted by: michelle16 on 06.12.2012 at 03:18 pm in Kitchens Forum

I can't believe it, I post a pic. just to show my ideas of mixing the grey, white dove and touches of blue, and you were able to find that pic and find out the gray used. Now what are the chances that it would work and I love it! yes, just got back from store, it hasn't even dried yet, and I know it's the one!!!! I really loved cumulous cloud, but knew it was a hair too light, this seems perfect, I can't thank you enough!!! Michelle


clipped on: 06.16.2012 at 11:08 pm    last updated on: 06.16.2012 at 11:08 pm

RE: White quartzite owners: Please show your BS and paint color (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: kiffgirl on 06.06.2012 at 09:44 am in Kitchens Forum

We went with ivory glass mini subway tiles with a pebble mosaic at the stove. The colors are soft ivory, light grey and charcoal grey in the pebble mosaic. The subway tiles take on a slight green hue from the glass itself, but are ivory.

The wall color is a soft pale ivory, probably with the slightest nod towards green undertone. It's warmer than the photo represents, but still quite pale. The white macaubus counter has tiny flecks of sandy colored dots throughout and the wall color is similar.



clipped on: 06.15.2012 at 11:27 am    last updated on: 06.15.2012 at 11:27 am

RE: Templating on Friday...any advice? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: francoise47 on 06.11.2012 at 09:56 am in Kitchens Forum

Make sure that you know the following:

1. The kind of reveal -- negative, positive, flush -- for your sink if you have an undermount sink. Many posts on GW on this topic.

2. How much overhang on the counters. There have been many posts on GW on this topic as well. I preferred less overhang so requested a 3/4" overhang. If I hadn't requested that, they would have template for a larger overhang.

3. If you have an L shaped counter, how do you want the inside edge/angle? Do you want a slight curve? Do you want it squared off? I just assumed it would be gently squared off so I didn't say anything. In fact, they gave me a swooping curve that extends farther over my base cabinets than the rest of the counter. I hate it! (I think I may not be describing this problem very well.)

4. Last, and most obviously, what kind of edge profile do you want for your granite? Eased edge, ogee, bullnose, etc.

All obvious stuff... except point #3.


clipped on: 06.12.2012 at 11:15 am    last updated on: 06.12.2012 at 11:15 am

Share your best sites for deals on supplies!

posted by: wear_your_baby on 03.13.2010 at 09:44 pm in Building a Home Forum

Anyone want to share your favorite sites to find great deals on your materials? We're owner-builders so we're trying to find great deals and buy things along the way to keep them out of the loan. Some of the many things we're shopping for are: door knobs, recessed lighting, flood CFL bulbs, ceiling fans, faucets, cabinet pulls, kitchen sink, tile, toilets, tubs...

Any great scores you want to share? Thanks in advance!


clipped on: 06.11.2012 at 07:50 pm    last updated on: 06.11.2012 at 07:50 pm

RE: Dream Thread! (What do you wish you had now?) (Follow-Up #33)

posted by: angela12345 on 06.03.2011 at 12:20 am in Building a Home Forum

Here are links to some of the earlier threads . . . - unique/favorite features in your build.... - Things you couldn't live without or wish you had added - What things did you find needed adjusting or changed? - is there anything you wish you had done - What about your new build makes your life easier; what doesn't ? - Brands/Products That I'd Use Again - Share your best sites for deals on supplies! - To help others - Things I would do different and things i love! - Things I wish I'd specified on my plans - It's been two years...what I've learned, would change, etc... - Biggest Mistakes? - Help!!! Have I forgotten anything? - designing electrical in house - doing whole house audio


clipped on: 06.11.2012 at 07:46 pm    last updated on: 06.11.2012 at 07:46 pm

RE: Anyone do away with their kitchen table and extend their isla (Follow-Up #10)

posted by: buehl on 03.23.2010 at 01:23 pm in Kitchens Forum

Great island Lagrant! I hope you don't mind, but I'm going to use your island to point out to the OP what to consider if she goes forward with this idea...your island shows how it can be done right!


  • For younger and older people, seating higher than table-height can be uncomfortable

  • If seating is all in a row, then it is not very conducive for conversation, you'll be sitting "like ducks in a row". Notice Lagrant's has seating on 3 sides...much more people-friendly than most islands I see out there. It really looks like a giant table w/a sink at the end with the advantage of extra storage and a wonderfully large expanse of workspace for large projects and at a nice working height.

  • Keep in mind that if you lower the seating side, it has the same negative effect on workspace, etc. that raising the seating eliminates that nice expanse of workspace I mentioned above. To me, more than one level actually negates the positive benefits. To mitigate the negative impact of more than one level, try to keep the seating on one end...sort of like a table attached to the island. The other end of the island would then give you that wonderful expanse of workspace.

  • If you plan to eat meals at the island, do not put your Cleanup Zone (i.e., main/cleanup sink & DW) in the island near the seats... Even more importantly, don't put your Cooking Zone (i.e., cooktop/range) in the island anywhere near the seats either (actually, don't put your cooktop/range anywhere in the island!) Again, notice the relationship b/w the sink & seats in Lagrant's island...the sink is on one end and the seating is on the one is looking directly into a sink full of dirty dishes and no one has dirty dishes looming over them while eating!

  • Do you have a DR or other table space elsewhere? If not, I would not eliminate your table. Family meals are more "intimate" at a table than sitting at an island, especially "special" family gatherings such as birthdays, holiday dinners, etc.

  • If this will be your primary seating, I very, very strongly advise you to meet or exceed the NKBA Guidelines for seating space...including linear space and overhang and aisle space around the seats!

    NKBA Guidelines:

    • Overhang [Guideline 9: Seating Clearance]
      • 30" high tables/counters ("table-height"): 18" overhang

        Allow a 24" wide x 18" deep knee space for each seated diner and at least 18" of clear knee space

      • 36" high counters ("counter-height"): 15" overhang

        Allow a 24" wide x 15" deep knee space for each seated diner and at least 15" of clear knee space.

      • 42" high counters ("bar-height"): 12" overhang

        Allow a 24" wide x 12" deep knee space for each seated diner and 12" of clear knee space.

      • Remember: These are minimums

    • Seating/linear space (an extension of the above)
      • 24" per seat (2 feet). So, for two people, you need at least 48" or 4 feet. For 8 people, you need at least 16 feet (8 people x 2')
      • If "rounding the corner", be sure the knee space is not shared by two seats...a common mistake made. Using Lagrant's island as an example again, notice there is no overlap of knee space on the corners.

    • Aisle width with seating - if no counters or appliances behind seats [Guideline 8: Traffic Clearance at Seating]
      • In a seating area where no traffic passes behind a seated diner, allow 32" of clearance from the counter/table edge to any wall or other obstruction behind the seating area.
      • If traffic passes behind the seated diner, allow at least 36" to edge past.
      • If traffic passes behind the seated diner, allow at least 44" to walk past.

    • Aisle width with seating - if counters or appliances behind seats

      The NKBA is curiously silent about this. Either meaning it's not recommended or they couldn't decide on a guideline. I suppose the "obstruction" could be thought to mean a working counter or appliance, however, the recommendations do not allow for workroom, so I am reasonably sure that is not what was meant.

      The following is what is recommended for work aisles. So, I would take these recommendations and add the 32" from above (probably 24" to 30" more would be enough)

      [Guideline 6: Work Aisle]

      • Single cook/worker in the kitchen: The width of a work aisle should be at least 42" for one cook. [42" + 30" = 72" or 42" + 24" = 66"]

        Note: Some people have found 36" wide enough...but this is usually either a one-cook kitchen or work space and no traffic goes through that aisle.

      • Multiple cooks/workers: The width of a work aisle should be at least 48" for multiple cooks. [48" + 30" = 78" or 48" + 24" = 72"]
      • Measure between the counter frontage [edge], tall cabinets and/or appliances.


  • Here is a link that might be useful: NKBA Kitchen Planning Guidelines with Access Standards (with pictures!)


    clipped on: 06.11.2012 at 07:33 pm    last updated on: 06.11.2012 at 07:33 pm

    RE: Taking possession a week from Fri...any advice? (Follow-Up #1)

    posted by: bevangel on 08.16.2011 at 12:33 pm in Building a Home Forum

    It is probably late for this advice but you need to spend at least a full day at your house looking for punch list issues and making a written list BEFORE you meet with your builder for your "pre-through." And you need to be able to do this while there are no workmen there so they are not making noise or getting in your way. There are just too many things to look for to try to do the checking WHILE walking thru the house with your builder. Even if your builder gives you a full three or four hours for the walk-through, that is simply not enough time...especially if builder is taking time to write notes about the things you mention. And it is possible your builder will attempt to rush you because the fewer things you mention, the less work he has to do. Better to go with a list in hand (with a copy for builder) so that your walk-thru with builder is just a chance for you to show him what each note on the list refers to.

    On your list, for each issue indicate EXACTLY where the problem is located.... What room, what wall, Where on the wall, what the problem is, and what needs to be done. Eg., 1) Living room; on north wall, 4 ft from east wall & 18 inches above the floor; there are gaps in sheetrock around electrical outlet; need to patch gaps, smooth patch (or texture to match wall texture) and prime and painted to match wall. 2) 1st floor powderroom, floor 20 inches from west wall & 2 ft from south wall; cracked tile; remove and replace with good tile, regrout - make certain replacement tile is set level with surrounding tiles and that grout matches surrounding grout. The more detailed you are, the more likely the fixes are going to be done satisfactorily. So, a laptop with an excel program can be helpful for making your lists because you can copy and paste the correction instructions everytime you find yet another electrical outlet with gaps around it.

    So, if it were me, I would ask to postpone the walk-thru with builder until after this weekend - even if that meant postponing my move in date by a week or so. Then I would take a couple of very persnickity (sp??) friends with me to the house over the weekend and spend several hours going over each room and making lists of punch list items. People seeing the place with fresh eyes will see problems that you noticed months ago, that your builder promised to fix, but then somehow never got around to doing. Keep a copy of your list and then check issues off as they are corrected. Otherwise, chances are, half the stuff you point out will never get corrected. Don't rely on your builder putting sticky notes on walls. Sticky notes have a way of disappearing without the work ever getting done!

    Some things you need to check:

    Whole House
    _ Turn every light switch on and off.
    _ If you have ceiling fans with multiple speeds, check that they work on every speed.
    _ Test every electrical outlet (both top and bottom as we've actually found that on a number of outlets in our current house - which was purchased from a previous owner - only one half of the outlet has power and the other half is dead!)
    _ Check that both heating and air conditioning work, and that you have an adequate flow of air from every register. This will require turning the AC down so that the house gets extra cold and then, after checking AC, turning the heat on to make sure that works. While it'll be a bit of a waste of energy, you don't want to find out that the heater isn't working the first night that temps suddenly dip below freezing.
    _ Open and close every window. Make sure they open easily and close and seal completely. Look for any light entering around the edges of window (between the sash and the jambs.) If light can enter, so can water! If your windows tilt out to clean, check that function on every window as well.
    _ Open and close every door, interior and exterior.
    _ Check that all doors are plumb and square. The crack around an door should be even on all sides when the door is closed and you should not be able to see light coming from the other side except at the bottoms of interior doors.
    _ Check that exterior doors close and seal completely. You should not be able to see any light coming in between the door and jamb or the door and the sill AT ALL.
    _ Lock and unlock every lock
    _ Check that walls are plumb and flat, that there are no nail pops and that the texturing and paint is even. BTW - nail pops are where the nails holding sheetrock to the studs back up slightly. You see them as little round bumps in the paint. You should not be able to tell where the edges of sheetrock panels are. Nor should you be able to notice any dips or high places in the walls where they taped and floated the sheetrock.
    _ Check walls carefully around all outlet plates to make certain there are no gaps where the cuts in the sheetrock were made too large and then never fixed.
    _ Check every piece of molding looking for cracks or gaps where two pieces of molding meet. Check the paint or stain on molding - particularly cut ends.
    _ Check floors. Tiles should have even and straight grout lines; hardwoods should not have gaps between boards; seams on vinyl flooring should not be noticable; carpet should be tight and should not show seams; etc.
    _While the house is quiet (late night is best), walk up and down the steps and across all portions of any hardwood floors. There should be no creaks or squeeks.
    _ Check ceilings. You should not be able to tell where the edges of the sheetrock panels are.
    _ Check stair spindles, balusters, and handrails to make sure they are solidly installed. No shakiness.
    - Take a sprinkler with you and set it so that water falls down against your windows (simulating rain) and check for leaks on the inside. You should not see ANY water on the inside. (Caution - don't spray water UPWARD against your windows as you may drive water through the drainholes, set the spinkler so that water falls downward against the windows.)
    _ If you get lucky and it happens to be raining while you are there, go into the attic and look for leaks.
    _ Check that smoke detectors are working.
    _ Turn everything in the house off and unplug the refrigerator, then check the electric meter. It should no longer be running. (Be sure to plug appliances back in afterwards!)
    _ Make sure all water spigots are turned off and that your water heaters are full, then check your water meter. It should NOT be moving. If it is, you may have a leak somewhere in your plumbing system...possibly even under your slab.
    _ If you have a real wood fireplace, build a very small but smoky fire (damp wood and newspapers) and make sure the chimney draws properly.
    _ If you have a gas fireplace, light it and make sure all the vents work properly and that the flame heights are as you would expect them to be.
    _ If you have natural gas or propane, find the inside gas cut-off valves. (NOTE that these should not be hidden behind an appliance - you need to be able to get to them easily in case of a fire!) Make sure the gast cut off valves turn easily. Light the appliance then turn the gas off at the cut off valve. The flame should go completely out. If it doesn't, the cut off valve is working properly.

    Kitchen/Laundry Room/Pantry
    _ Check that every appliance is working properly
    * Refrigerator
    * Freezer
    * Dishwasher (run thru a cycle to ensure no leaks and that it actually cleans dishes. We bought a house once where the dishwasher seemed to work when we tested it but when we actually tried to wash dishes, they never got clean. It turned out that the water had never been attached and the little bit of moisture we were seeing was just moisture from the air!)
    * stove top - check every burner
    * vent hood - make sure it is actually hooked up and venting to the outside.
    * oven
    * microwave
    * garbage disposal - put some garbage in it and make sure it chops it up.
    * washer (again, run a cycle to make sure its not leaking and that it doesn't dance around)
    * dryer (run a cycle with some clothes to make sure it doesn't dance. Also, make sure the dry vent is hooked up!)
    _ Open and close every cabinet and every drawer to make sure they function properly.
    _ Look inside each cabinet and drawer to make sure it is finished properly, that there are no missing shelves, etc. Also, look for scratches, nicks, and stains. Once you move in, you builder will assume that you made any mars on your cabinetry.
    _ Turn both hot and cold water on at the sink. Fill the sink with water and then, after a while, check under the sink for evidence of leaking. Check around the sink to make sure that it is properly sealed to your countertop.
    _ Check the countertop for flaws. Check the edges of countertops especially carefully as these can easily get chipped or scratched (depending on the type surface) during the building process.
    _If you have a granite countertop, inspect it carefully. Run your hands over every inch feeling for any rough spots. Also, get down on your hands and knees and look across the granite from a height just an inch or two above the surface - places that are not properly polished will be more visible.
    _ Inspect every light fixture installed by builder to make certain it was not scratched, dented, or marred in the process of being installed.

    _ Actually step into shower stalls and bathtubs to make sure they feel solid underfoot. Acrylic tubs and shower bases that "give" underfoot will crack over time.
    _ Run water in every sink and bathtub and make sure they hold water without leaking. (Look under the sinks for leaks).
    _ Run the showers.
    _ Make sure you get hot water when you turn on a hot water spigot. Try it at every sink, tub, shower, and in your washing machine.
    _ Run water at several locations at the same time to make sure you have adequate water pressure.
    _ Test that bathroom fans work.
    _ Flush all toilets several times to make sure they STOP running when the tanks refill. (Having a bunch of friends out for several hours also means your toilets may actually get "field tested" to make sure they really flush adequately... which not something you are likely to test while doing a walk thru with your builder!)
    _ Make sure toilets sit solidly and evenly on the floor and are properly bolted down. There should not be any "rocking" motion when you sit down.
    _ Have someone flush a toilet times while you run hot water in the shower and feel it. Flushing the toilet SHOULD NOT cause the shower water to suddenly get noticeable hotter.
    _Make sure shower faucets are grouted properly so that water does not get into the wall behind them.
    _ Check the cabinetry the same as you did for the kitchen.
    _ Make certain that mirrors installed by the builder don't have flaws in the silvering.
    _ Test that toilet paper holders and towel bars are firmly affixed to walls.

    _ If your builder installed blinds or operable shutters (inside or out) make sure they work properly.
    _ Check that you OUTDOOR water spigots work.
    _ Check all outdoor electrical outlets as well. These often get over-looked.
    _ Check your garage door openers. Also make sure that, if something is in the way of the door as it comes down, that the door stops and goes back up.
    _ If you have an attic access ladder, pull it down and make sure it works smoothly.
    _ Climb into the attic and make sure you have the amount of insulation you are supposed to have.
    - If you're really lucky and it rains while you are checking out your house this weekend, go up into the attic with a flashlight and look for roof leaks.
    _ Make sure gutters are fully attached to walls and designed to drain water away from your house. Pull downward gently on the downspouts and make sure that there is no movement where they connect to the gutters. If downspouts have not been properly connected to gutters, they can fall out.
    _ Check that ground around the house has been graded so that it slopes away from the house.
    _ Get as high above the ground as you can safely manage and look to see if your roofing shingles appear to be flat and tight against the roof.
    _ Check all exterior concrete for cracks.
    _ Check the siding on the house to make sure everything that was supposed to be painted has been painted.
    _ Check that exterior sprinkler systems work and that landscaping plants are alive and appear healthy.

    This is all just "off the top of my head." I'm sure if you think about it you can add dozens of other things to check for. And, no doubt other posters will chime in with other things to add to your check list.
    Ultimately, you don't have to insist that the builder fix every little tiny thing. If something won't bother you - or if you can fix it easily yourself and don't mind doing so, point it out to your builder anyway and, once you've gone over everything you can cross those items off your list as a way to show you're being reasonable but that the rest of the list IS important to you.


    clipped on: 06.11.2012 at 07:28 pm    last updated on: 06.11.2012 at 07:28 pm

    RE: Beagles - outlets? (Follow-Up #1)

    posted by: beaglesdoitbetter on 06.05.2012 at 04:01 pm in Kitchens Forum

    Thanks for the kind words deb52899. Our neighborhood definitely doesn't have a bunch of $5M homes, LOL. I am not sure if there are any houses that cost that much anywhere in this entire region! Our neighborhood is really cool though- it is on 204 acres on the site of an old historic hotel and they are only developing 54 acres, the rest is woods, trails and a community pond and activity areas. We love it here. Right now, there are only five houses in the whole area including ours (although there are other lots for sale). There are wood sculptures everywhere made by a local artist, all the street signs have little carved birds or squirrels on them and the dogs can drink from streams as we walk through the neighborhood on their morning walk!

    Anyway, on to your actual question :)
    Here are my island outlets. They are under the overhang of the granite. Remember, my kitchen was designed for form over function and I won't ever plug things in so I didn't care that they really aren't accessible (except for people who want to sit at the island and plug in laptops, which is what they'll be used for, if they are used at all)

    Here is how we hid outlets on the sink wall:

    And here is how we hid them on the cooktop wall since there was no upper cabinets for them to go under (only pot racks)

    You cannot see them at all when you are just a little further away. The wood piece is stuck on with magnets that are over the top of the outlet

    Finally, here is the wire to the bathroom plug. I don't know how they did it, but the drawer moves seamlessly in and out and you cannot tell at all that there's a wire or plug back there when you open and close it (unless you stick your iPhone camera in there and take a picture, LOL)

    Also, I don't think the flickr has all of the updated pics- the blog is a better place to look :)


    clipped on: 06.06.2012 at 09:37 am    last updated on: 06.06.2012 at 09:37 am

    RE: Finished Kitchen with Typhoon Bordeaux (Follow-Up #16)

    posted by: pemberley on 05.31.2012 at 09:32 pm in Kitchens Forum

    One more thing - the reverse osmosis faucet is by "Insinkerator" and it is the Indulge Antique model. It puts out both cold and hot water. The hot water comes out near boiling which will be wonderful when making tea. I am saying goodbye to my electric kettle.


    clipped on: 05.31.2012 at 10:44 pm    last updated on: 05.31.2012 at 10:45 pm

    RE: Struggling to find a quiet range hood to 'build in' (Follow-Up #4)

    posted by: staceyneil on 04.05.2010 at 09:45 am in Kitchens Forum

    What CFMs do you need (what BTUs is your range?)

    We needed a high-powered one since we have a "pro-sumer" style range. The Thermador we bought -with an integral blower- was absolutely ridiculously loud. So we replaced it with a remote blower, in the attic space. It was quite inexpensive (from Fantech, and we added a length of insulated ducting to further reduce sound) and SO much quieter.

    If you go that route, you can use ANY hood piece you want. All it is is the collection area, filters, and connector to the ducting. I believe it is much cheaper and quieter to go this route than to buy a complete hood/blower set like most people do. Of course, this is only if you need a high-CFM hood.


    clipped on: 03.14.2012 at 06:30 pm    last updated on: 03.14.2012 at 06:36 pm