Clippings by Kellysar

 Sort by: Last Updated Post Date Post Title Forum Name 

dr.girlfriend's mega before-and-after kitchen thread

posted by: dr.girlfriend on 01.24.2015 at 02:53 pm in Kitchens Forum

You guys were so helpful when I was planning my kitchen that it's all done I wanted to share as much info as I could. I am 100% happy with how it came out, and wouldn't change a thing, and that's largely because of all the great planning advice I got here.

Here was the floor plan before:

And after:

We knocked down the right side of the wall between the kitchen and dining room, and put in a peninsula with kitchen sink/dishwasher/trash pullout on one side and higher shallow cabinets on the dining room side.

Sorry the "before" pics aren't that good, the kitchen was too small to stand back far enough to take a good picture.

Back wall before:

Back wall after:

Left side before:

Left side after:

Wall between rooms before:

Open space between rooms now:

View from dining room before:

View from dining room after:

I realized I don't have a good pic of the sink side after...this is it before the backsplash went up (the same grey tile as on the other wall):

All cabinets are IKEA Lidingo, standard sizes except for one we cut down to about a 6" depth to set to the right of the fridge -- this was the best idea, it stores so much in such a small sliver of space:

One more overview pic:

The sink is a Blanco Silgranit in the metallic grey -- it's beautiful:

Granite is Blanco Antico, but the lot was much lighter than this stone often is. Flooring is from Lumber Liquidators, an engineered hardwood we have throughout the adjoining room as well.

Fridge: LFX25991ST
Stove: LDE3037ST
Sink: Blanco Precis Super Single in Metallic Grey
Faucet: Delta Cassidy One Touch '
Instant hot water: Quick Hot system from Costco
Tile: Mission Stone and Tile, H-Line Glossy 3x6 subway tile in the color Pumice
Lighting: Pendants from LampsPlus Open Box, Moroccan cylinder light from Shades of Light

The whole reno came in around $22k, not counting the floor which we had already purchased. The contractor costs were about $9300, plus the cost of materials (but that included some extra work in the dining room, like installing crown molding there as well).

The paint color is prettier than it's a beautiful warm griege (Benjamin Moore Cotswold), with a cream color below the chair rail (Benjamin Moore Etiquette).

Any other questions, feel free to ask. :-)

This post was edited by dr.girlfriend on Sat, Jan 24, 15 at 21:28


Paint colors
clipped on: 01.26.2015 at 07:03 pm    last updated on: 01.26.2015 at 07:04 pm

RE: Boring Dining Room Help! (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: aktillery on 01.04.2015 at 09:23 am in Home Decorating & Design Forum

Just a rough mock up for ideas.

I think you should loose the chair rail all together. I think it competes with the details of the table. I would paint the room one solid color. Add curtains and a shade. I just threw in a chandelier I thought was nice. Maybe you could use two round chandeliers since your table is so long. I think round would be nice since the room and table are both rectangular.

Hope it helps!


clipped on: 01.05.2015 at 12:54 am    last updated on: 01.05.2015 at 12:55 am

RE: Custom-built sofa? (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: Tibbrix on 01.02.2015 at 08:51 pm in Home Decorating & Design Forum

The real challenge, for me, was the cushion. Cannot seem to get a good cushion. GREAT frame (Hickory Chair), cost a FORTUNE, went into a store to try out HC sofas, GREAT cushions, didn't sink into the sofa, perfect density, spoke at length with the salespeople about how important the cushions was to me…I was so psyched, had finally found my perfect sofa, height between floor and seat of 21 inches - hard to find…sofa came . The frame is amazing, fantastic, etc…..cushion is a POC, sank into the sofa, not comfortable…I had to fortify it with all kinds of stuff. I was furious.

The frame is easy to get right. Just make sure it's made from kiln-dried hardwood - ALL of it, has blocks on the corners, is eight-way hand-tied…but I am completely stumped as to what a person has to do to get a decent sofa cushion.


clipped on: 01.04.2015 at 11:48 pm    last updated on: 01.04.2015 at 11:48 pm

Stencil immitation of wallpaper

posted by: cheryleb on 08.24.2013 at 10:46 pm in Home Decorating & Design Forum

I am almost finished my dining room now. Today we did the feature wall stencil. Unfortunately, it is really hard to get a good picture because the crystal chandelier casts shadows. I took one earlier but it isn't great.

I am posting my inspiration picture and the wall we did. I don't think the pics do it justice but need to wait until it is light out to get better ones and didn't want to wait. :)

Inspiration pic
 photo wallpaperinspiration_zps1dc2d0a9.jpg

My dining room wall.
 photo wallpaperfauxDR_zpsc83e24e8.jpg

What do you think?


clipped on: 08.25.2013 at 08:36 pm    last updated on: 08.25.2013 at 08:37 pm

RE: Installing first cabinets - A few quirks with molding? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: GreenDesigns on 07.08.2013 at 09:47 am in Kitchens Forum

Top alignment height for 39" cabinets is 93" from the finished floor. You use a laser level to find the high spot in the floor, measure from that, and draw a level line all the way around the room. It's the same with the base. You do a level line 34.5" from the high spot in the room, and shim all of the others to that level line.

With full overlay cabinets, you don't attach the molding directly to the box. You need an intermediate molding piece between the cabinets and the crown. You've got to have a cleat to attach to the cabinets, and then you attach the crown to the cleat. Take a plain 3" tall filler ripped to 1 1/2" and nail it together in an L shape. Apply it with the bottom of the L brought forward to the plane of the door, and the other section vertical. The cove molding is then attached to the vertical portion and touches the ceiling. That lets the cove "float" up and down the filler to account for any variation in ceiling height.


clipped on: 07.09.2013 at 10:48 pm    last updated on: 07.09.2013 at 10:48 pm


posted by: CEFreeman on 07.04.2013 at 02:31 pm in Kitchens Forum

Kitchen Cabinets.

I know what flashed thru your mind. Don't deny it. I just know! But.. to a much more interesting topic (and prettier, at my age).

I started stripping the 15 antique doors I have collected for my pocket doors. I picked up this Blog recommended Citrustrip stuff. Thinking, "whatever" I started.

OMG. This 50 to 100 year old paint peeled off in sheets. Literally! I took pictures. Then, the varnish or shiny stuff below scraped off like BBQ Sauce. I'm down to bare wood with just a couple reapplications on tough stain.

Speaking of stain, it lifts stain out of the grain of the wood, too! I'm eyeing the side lights on my mahogany front door I sanded clean last year. You neutralize it with soap and water. No burning, biodegradable, and FAST! I can't believe what I went through last year and I could have had this.

How do my cabinets fit in? I decided to strip the drawer fronts on the Quakermaid 1994 cabinets I got at the Community Forklift. Why not!? Well, after letting the stripper sit for 3 days, it didn't make a dent. I broke down and used the evil, seriously hurtful chemical Kwikstrip which peeled it off in 20 minutes. Gone.

So for all of you who fuss about durability on painted cabinets? I strongly recommend Quakermaid Ice white. OMG. Talk about rough.

Maybe they're Quakermade. I can't remember and am too lazy to get up. Just thought I'd share this Fab-u-less product!!!!! I am going to email them and offer to do advertizements. It's so easy I'm eyeing everything I own.


clipped on: 07.05.2013 at 11:48 pm    last updated on: 07.05.2013 at 11:49 pm

RE: Grout or caulk at bottom of backsplash? (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: oldryder on 06.24.2013 at 11:30 pm in Kitchens Forum

caulk. grout will cause problems eventually from movement.


clipped on: 06.24.2013 at 11:54 pm    last updated on: 06.24.2013 at 11:54 pm

RE: Ikea OTK, $7500 budget, almost done + a question (Follow-Up #11)

posted by: kiko on 05.21.2013 at 09:59 pm in Kitchens Forum

Wow! What a great job. I love seeing budget kitchens and yours is fantastic. Anyone can make a space fabulous with gobs of money (and too many make a space terrible with gobs of money!) but it takes talent to do beautiful on a budget! You should silver leaf your pantry door glass; it would look great in your kitchen. -cabinets.html

Here is a link that might be useful: Silver Leaf your glass!!


clipped on: 06.06.2013 at 09:54 pm    last updated on: 06.06.2013 at 09:54 pm

RE: Another pull question - anyone know the source? (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: breezygirl on 05.05.2013 at 08:15 pm in Kitchens Forum

Top Knobs' Nouveau pull is slim and sleek. I'll link one of the sizes below. A little more on the chunky, but still attractive, is the Top Knobs Pennington and TK Princetonian. Google those to see what appeals.

Here is a link that might be useful: Nouveau bar pull from Top Knobs


clipped on: 05.05.2013 at 08:55 pm    last updated on: 05.05.2013 at 08:55 pm

RE: microwave over cook top? (Follow-Up #24)

posted by: akchicago on 04.09.2013 at 08:29 pm in Kitchens Forum

Thanks Ginny!

OK, I found the Sharp MW I mentioned in my post above. The Sharp R121 over-the-counter MW. I've linked it below on the ajmadison website. GE also makes some OTC MWs.

Though I think KevinMP's small MW is a better solution.

(KevinMP - great post. I think you meant over-the-range MWs, not over-the-counter).

Here is a link that might be useful: Sharp R121 OTC MW

This post was edited by akchicago on Tue, Apr 9, 13 at 20:33


clipped on: 05.04.2013 at 09:52 pm    last updated on: 05.04.2013 at 09:52 pm

RE: microwave over cook top? (Follow-Up #22)

posted by: KevinMP on 04.09.2013 at 08:16 pm in Kitchens Forum

I do not feel like over-the-counter microwaves are used for many things other than simple reheating and defrosting, and they have so many negatives. But if that's all you have to work with, it's all you have to work with, and it'll end up fine. I'll give you an example from my space. My house has a small kitchen (approximately 8.5' x 14'). When I bought it 2.5 years ago, the prior owners replaced the kitchen. Unfortunately, they had ordered the materials already so I didn't have much say. I lived with it for about 2 years and then switched out some of the appliances, added a wall unit/ marble counter, new backsplash, and, relevant here, ditched the OTC microwave.

The main problem with the OTC microwave is that it takes up so much visual and actual space. There is not enough cooking headroom and really even space for them, in my opinion, and they almost always have inadequate or overly loud fans (sometimes even unducted). Put a stock pot on your stove and envision where the microwave's bottom will be. Also, imagine a 14" high or so block sticking out from the wall nearly as deep a your counter and further than your upper cabinets.

So I replaced it with a modestly priced professional-looking stainless hood and bought a small Whirlpool microwave others on these boards have used too (WMC20005YD) and put it into one of the 18" pantry cabinets in my new wall unit (after having an electrician wire an outlet to it). I don't regret it at all. My kitchen looks far better than it did, and for not a lot of money.

Anyhow, here's an example of the difference.


 photo DSC_0041.jpg

 photo DSC_0044.jpg


 photo DSC_0148.jpg

 photo DSC_0152.jpg


clipped on: 05.04.2013 at 09:34 pm    last updated on: 05.04.2013 at 09:35 pm

RE: Feature Wall? (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: AnnieDeighnaugh on 05.02.2013 at 05:30 pm in Home Decorating & Design Forum

I have a big plain wall in my DR so I framed up wall paper...


clipped on: 05.02.2013 at 10:34 pm    last updated on: 05.02.2013 at 10:35 pm

RE: BM Monroe Bisque or Shaker Beige (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: meghnjosh on 03.27.2013 at 10:41 pm in Home Decorating & Design Forum

I have both these colors....Monroe bisque has a def. green undertone but is a beautiful color. I have read that shaker beige has a pink undertone but I don't see it in my house. It is a beautiful color as well...reminds me of a light chocolate can't go wrong with both these colors, IMO....


clipped on: 03.27.2013 at 11:35 pm    last updated on: 03.27.2013 at 11:35 pm

RE: Is this Crown plan going to look stupid? (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: jakuvall on 03.23.2013 at 02:08 pm in Kitchens Forum

The overhang only is an issue if you are doing full overlay (are you??). If that is the case, and you want the exposure to be the same for the bullnose on the side as it is on the front then- the miter is moved over. SImple, instead of cutting the miter based on the cabinet box it gets layed out based on the exposure, how much it protrudes from the door. That moves the corner of the miter over away from the side. This still looks fine on full overlay as you have even exposure and the front point of the miter is still past the corner. It is just a little hard to figure out in the field but have done it numerous times.

I think you have a larger problem with the crown running into the cathedral ceiling. Based on what you say the bullnose and a small portion of the mounting plate remains vertical, the rest of the mounting plate and the end of the crown need to be cut on an angle and end in the ceiling. Sounds odd to me.

The steeper the ceiling the better ...if you have say a 612 roof (pretty steep) and your total molding stack is 9 3/4" then the top of your crown will be hitting the ceiling 8" from the back of the cabinet. Lower the slope and it moves further to the front of the cabinet quickly.


clipped on: 03.23.2013 at 09:54 pm    last updated on: 03.23.2013 at 09:54 pm

First Look - White and Cherry Shaker Kitchen Almost Done

posted by: soibean on 02.05.2013 at 12:31 pm in Kitchens Forum

A year and a half since we started planning, four months since demolition day, and we are nearly done. I have to say, so far, I love everything about the new kitchen, and I owe so much of it to GW!

I am not trying to be "timeless" or "classic". I have tried to be true to my own contemporary aesthetic. I'm saving a bit of personality for the backsplash, which is on order and won't be installed for a couple of months.

When the last few bits are finished, I will also post pictures of the eating area, mudroom, and family room, which were all part of the renovation. Plus I'll add some before pictures and some pics of my favorite gadgets and accessories. For now, I'm just so excited that I had to share!




WAC pendant
clipped on: 03.17.2013 at 08:43 am    last updated on: 03.17.2013 at 08:43 am

RE: What's the proper way to judge counter/backsplash, cabinet co (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: GreenDesigns on 02.07.2013 at 07:29 pm in Kitchens Forum

First of all, put your cabinet sample against a couple of white sheets of paper. What undertones does it have? If you aren't good at detecting undertones, then get some help from someone who is. Then do the same with the counter samples. If your cabinet color has yellow undertones, then go through and toss any counter samples that have a blue or green undertone. Warm tones look best with warm tones. The ones with yellow or red undertones are the finalists.

For the finalists, do make sure that you are using the lighting that you will use in the kitchen. Yes, go and buy some daylight bulbs and see what things look like then. And make sure that you are viewing the cabinet sample vertically and the counter sample horizontally.

If all of this fails, drink a bottle of wine and close your eyes, mix them up, and grab one! Then blame it on the wine. :)


clipped on: 02.25.2013 at 08:43 pm    last updated on: 02.25.2013 at 08:43 pm

RE: I went over the TKO edge when... (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: taggie on 02.18.2013 at 03:18 pm in Kitchens Forum

I too was on TKO overload about switches!

We have 6 different under-cabinet and in-cabinet lighting 'zones' and didn't want the switch looking like mission control so our electrician found a similar toggle switch solution to what you saw in Cancun. Love it!

Also had him remote mount a switch panel (the lower stainless panel) for our vent hood so we can work the lights and blowers without reaching above the stovetop when it's on. Definitely over the TKO edge, but it is fun. :)

 photo DSCN3904lightswitch.jpg


clipped on: 02.18.2013 at 09:27 pm    last updated on: 02.18.2013 at 09:28 pm

RE: What did you introduce to your GC that impressed them? (Follow-Up #11)

posted by: drbeanie2000 on 02.18.2013 at 04:00 pm in Kitchens Forum

Our Silgranit II sink! They didn't object to it, just didn't know what it was. They made a point of saying how quiet it was.

Also, they finally sent a piece of our told tile to World of Tile in NJ for a match, after trying to match it in all the local places they were used to dealing with. I knew 1954 peachy-pink was not something they were going to find in a local store, so I would have preferred they send the tile to WoT earlier, but once they finally did and got a match back, they were totally impressed! This was for a bathroom, but I'm sure the same would apply to kitchen tiles.


clipped on: 02.18.2013 at 09:21 pm    last updated on: 02.18.2013 at 09:21 pm

RE: Paint Kitchen in Eggshell? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: cat_mom on 10.24.2012 at 11:06 am in Kitchens Forum

Don't know if you have your heart set on the eggshell finish, but check out BM's Aura paint in the matte finish--we love it. Texture is velvety--no sheen, but not flat and dull, like well, flat finish. :-) It wears well, and is highly scrub-able. It has good coverage, so I would think you can cover the semi-gloss with it without extra wall prep first. I know most people use flat ceiling paint, but we used the Aura matte on our ceilings as well.

We used Aura satin finish on all of our baseboard molding (matching color to the walls). You can always use a glossier finish if you prefer--this was as glossy as we wanted to go.


clipped on: 10.24.2012 at 09:26 pm    last updated on: 10.24.2012 at 09:26 pm

RE: ALMOST, All White Finished Kitchen Reveal!!! (Follow-Up #49)

posted by: annsch on 08.28.2012 at 11:33 pm in Kitchens Forum

mjocean--here are the pictures of the pendants at night with the lights on.(sorry blurry and odd light, but I didn't want to use flash so that you could see how much light they cast)

The first picture is with no other lights on and you can see that they give off quite a bit of light. The whole island is lit up. They are on a dimmer, but that pic is with them on the highest setting. The second is with other lights on. And the third is just a close up because I wanted you to see that you cannot see the bulb inside but do get a lot of reflection on the outside of lamp.





clipped on: 09.11.2012 at 10:03 pm    last updated on: 09.11.2012 at 10:04 pm

Backsplash sanity check- ending close to a doorway

posted by: labbie on 09.11.2012 at 09:16 pm in Kitchens Forum

Quick sanity check here- Tile guy is coming first thing tomorrow a.m. to install our backsplash.

We have 4 inches from the end of the counter to a piece of door trim. There is an outlet that is past the counter and long story but cannot be moved at this point (you'll see the pencil mark where I wish it could've been).
Ironically the tile is almost exactly the wall color, it's fairly thin, and color all the way through (it's a porcelain 3x12).

Contractor says in these instances he tiles all the way to the trimwork. I googled and saw someone suggest this solution to a poster with a similar issue.
Without moving the outlet, the only other solution is to tile around it which I think would look worse. By the time we did an edge piece it would leave such a skinny piece of wall between it and the trim.

I have kitchen reno exhaustion so checking whether I'm crazy to be ok with this solution?

Here is the overall kitchen, the area is the far left edge of the counter, next to the sunroom doorframe

Here is a closeup of the area. It's about 4 inches to the wall



clipped on: 09.11.2012 at 09:52 pm    last updated on: 09.11.2012 at 09:52 pm