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RE: Name this flower (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: SunnyBorders on 08.04.2014 at 07:19 pm in Perennials Forum

Woody's warning is very appropriate:

I do grow a number of monkshoods, but never plant them where children or pets have easy access to them.

Many gardeners know the gist of the following:

All parts of the monkshoods seen in gardens are extremely poisonous; the concentration of the toxin, aconitine, is especially high in the roots and seeds.

Eating any parts of the plant can prove fatal. Oral doses as low as 1.5 mg have killed human beings. There is no antidote. Treatment is only possible for the symptoms.

Aconitine is also easily absorbed through undamaged skin. Personally, I don't always use gloves around monkshood (e.g. tying it to supports), but do in such cases wash my hands afterwards. I certainly do use gloves to do things like cutting the plant back and separating tubers.

At the same time, monkshood is used in the cut flower business. I'm assuming that they use gloves too.


Gorgeous purple and white flower, but very poisonous.
clipped on: 08.04.2014 at 11:51 pm    last updated on: 08.04.2014 at 11:52 pm

RE: What is your most prolific Blooming David Austin? (Follow-Up #11)

posted by: Tuderte on 07.02.2014 at 06:12 am in Antique Roses Forum

Hi Boncrow,

I'm attaching a photo of a section of the Queen of Sweden hedge. Unfortunately, when it looked its best we had house guests and I didn't have any time to take photos:-( I will upload another of the QOS as a stand-alone plant (I had some left over) - I think it grows nicely as a stand-alone bush, too.



David Austin
clipped on: 08.03.2014 at 10:05 pm    last updated on: 08.03.2014 at 10:05 pm

RE: grafting (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: kbk00 on 07.07.2014 at 11:56 pm in Fruit & Orchards Forum

Check out YouTube. Stephen Hayes has a lot of videos for a noob. I never knew a thing about grafting until this spring and watched his videos. Three months later I'm now top working my 60 year of tree and made it a 5 in 1 with an additional 4 varieties probably next year. I also have several rootstock trees that I've made into a stooling bed and did a bench graft on another (about ~90 percent success for everything!). All of this was primarily with info from Stephens channel. It's actually really good and very accessible to a complete rookie!


Video recommendation
clipped on: 07.27.2014 at 02:50 am    last updated on: 07.27.2014 at 02:50 am

RE: Plants for fall/winter color (Follow-Up #11)

posted by: jadeite on 07.12.2014 at 11:41 pm in Perennials Forum

I'm glad Tex and Wantonamara broke the bad news about Japanese blood grass. On the Ornamental Grass forum there are many posts about this species.

If the OP bring herself to rethink this choice, my suggestion would be Little Bluestem (schizachyrium scoparium) which is very upright, grows up to about 40" in height (including flowers) by about a foot wide. It turns from a steely blue to glorious burgundy in fall. It's a tough native grass and can be grown from seed. There are named varieties, but the straight species is pretty darn great.


Here is a link that might be useful: little bluestem


clipped on: 07.23.2014 at 02:00 pm    last updated on: 07.23.2014 at 02:00 pm

RE: The secret is 4" of soil (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: docmom on 01.18.2014 at 06:40 am in Winter Sowing Forum

It depends on what kind of plants you are growing and how tall they will get before they can be planted out or survive with their tops open. I plant all tender annuals in my tallest containers, since they grow the fastest and will be most likely to need protection from late frosts. Native perennial seedlings don't get very tall, since they spend their first season developing root systems, and they can easily survive heavy freezes and frosts, if the tops have been removed. Ideally, 3-4" of headroom would be nice in general.



clipped on: 01.31.2014 at 02:45 am    last updated on: 01.31.2014 at 02:45 am

RE: Monarch Butterfly Crisis (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: rosefenn on 12.23.2013 at 06:49 pm in Cottage Garden Forum

There are 2 easy ways to help.

1. Plant milkweed in your gardens for them to have something to lay their eggs on -- it's the ONLY thing the caterpillars will eat. Need pods or seeds? sells seed. I myself have some pods if anyone is interested.
2. Plant nectar plants -- Joe Pye weed, coneflowers, phlox, cosmos, zinnas, buddleia, rudbeckia and so on.

I have had a Monarch flower plot for several years. This last summer I saw only a few Monarchs and I am afraid. This next summer I will redouble my efforts.


clipped on: 12.23.2013 at 10:27 pm    last updated on: 12.23.2013 at 10:27 pm

RE: planning a rose hedge (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: nanadoll on 11.18.2013 at 02:25 pm in Roses Forum

If you do decide to go with a yellow rose for a part of your hedge, I would like to nominate the yellow floribunda, Julia Child as a possibility. This continuously blooming (for many) plant grows in a lovely rounded shape to a possible 4-5 X 4-5 feet in a zone 6 (estimate only!), My Julias a little bigger than that. But others may have plants somewhat smaller (give us your Julia sizes, folks). My JCs lose their leaves slowly, but once they are gone, the plants have such thick, dense canes, there is still a measure of privacy to be had from the shrubs. I don't think you can find a more reliable rose or bloomer than this one--and it's a gorgeous one to my mind. This photo was taken at the end of July when it was 102 degrees. Diane


yellow rose
clipped on: 12.01.2013 at 04:10 pm    last updated on: 12.01.2013 at 04:11 pm

RE: Stepping Stone Paths without weeds? (Follow-Up #22)

posted by: shadeyplace on 11.11.2013 at 05:33 am in Perennials Forum

Lysimachia minutissima is excellent between stepping stones. I also reseeds into the bare places. very low


clipped on: 11.16.2013 at 04:13 pm    last updated on: 11.16.2013 at 04:13 pm

RE: Stepping Stone Paths without weeds? (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: mnwsgal on 10.28.2013 at 08:54 am in Perennials Forum

I use red creeping thyme in both sun and shade. While an occasional weed pops up it is mostly weed free. My plants were started from traded seed and winter sown. It took a couple of years but now I pull it up by the handfuls in the fall to keep it from getting out of bounds. After it blooms I mow or cut it back for later rebloom and to prevent seeding.
While the scent of lemon thyme is wonderful I have not found the plants to be reliably hardy in my area.

I've also used wooly thyme and mini thymes which stay low and spread less quickly.

What I am happiest with is a low tiny leaved dianthus which is beautiful in spring bloom and stays green until winter. It also gets an occasional weed, mostly oxalis. Beautiful but it doesn't have the scent one gets from walking on the red creeping thyme.


clipped on: 11.16.2013 at 03:58 pm    last updated on: 11.16.2013 at 03:58 pm

RE: "House Sewer" line. (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: troy80 on 01.14.2013 at 11:38 am in Plumbing Forum

Cleaning the line if done properly will not make the problem worse. Roots get into the lines from cracks in the pipe, cleaning will not make the roots more aggressive or damage anything. I have to have my sewer lines cleaned out on occasion, but I do an annual application of RootX which will burn the roots to stop them from wanting to come into the line in the first place. I would be leery of a company that sends a camera down the line right off the bat, that's usually a expensive thing to have done to diagnose problems, sounds to me like they were fishing for expensive jobs.


clipped on: 11.10.2013 at 09:40 pm    last updated on: 11.10.2013 at 09:40 pm

RE: Question about water supply hoses for washing machine (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: asolo on 10.20.2011 at 12:38 pm in Plumbing Forum

Recommend these combined with bronze goose-neck connectors for strain-relief. Both available at the site. I've had them at two locations for about seven years, now.

I am retail customer/user only. No other interest in the product or vendor.

Here is a link that might be useful: My recommended washer hoses


clipped on: 11.10.2013 at 01:49 am    last updated on: 11.10.2013 at 01:49 am

RE: Climber Suggestions (Follow-Up #16)

posted by: KingCobb on 11.08.2013 at 01:15 pm in Roses Forum

Lady Hillingdon Cl is supposed to be one of the best yellow rose climbers that there is. I have the bush form of it which isn't supposed to be nearly as robust and it is growing like crazy for me down here. Lady H can be difficult to find, but Roses Unlimited carries it in the spring. In his book the rose, David Austin actually refers to it as possibly the best climbing yellow rose there is. It has a nice fragrance, mine tends to be more peach then yellow though.


clipped on: 11.10.2013 at 01:14 am    last updated on: 11.10.2013 at 01:14 am

RE: Endless supply of seed envelopes (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: pitimpinai on 02.06.2006 at 08:01 pm in Winter Sowing Forum

Thank you, lblack, Raney & mmcq. I am glad that you are interested in making these envelopes. Making them relaxes me. I hope you�ll enjoy making them too. They are adorable, practical and cost nothing. In our small way, we�ll take part in recycling as well.

1. Cut paper into a 3 1/2" square, wider if you need a larger envelope. I might make my next batch with a 4" square for larger seeds:
Image hosting by Photobucket

2. Fold the square into a triangle. I forgot all the geometric terms, so please forgive me if the explanation is unclear:
Image hosting by Photobucket

3. Fold the two flaps almost all the way to the base of the triangle:
Image hosting by Photobucket

4. Fold the two corners of the triangle toward the center:
Image hosting by Photobucket

5. Unfold the flaps. Place a piece of tansparent tape over the two corners as shown in the photo above. The envelope will look like this:
Image hosting by Photobucket
Please note the base of the flaps. If the two corners of the triangle are folded a little deeper so that the flaps are not perfectly triangular, small seeds will not leak out.

6. Seeds go in between the two flaps:
Image hosting by Photobucket

7. Fold down the flaps and tape the tip or insert it into the envelope, like so:
Image hosting by Photobucket

I usually fold the squares up to stage 3 on the train to and from work. I do the rest at home where I have more space. It is not easy balancing all my supplies on my lap during the train ride. :-)

Have fun and please let me know how they turn out.


clipped on: 11.06.2013 at 10:02 am    last updated on: 11.06.2013 at 10:03 am

RE: Posting to those that probably know! (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: big_deck on 10.30.2013 at 01:33 pm in Garden Junk Forum

Opps - here's the image of the Topic!


clipped on: 11.05.2013 at 09:39 pm    last updated on: 11.05.2013 at 09:40 pm

RE: My new potting bench! (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: tasymo on 09.28.2013 at 06:44 pm in Garden Junk Forum

It now has a shelves, top and bottom and a cheerful new paint job, not to mention running water! I used two old air return grates in the bottom shelf (so the water from the sink can go somewhere) and on the back for decorative purposes. I used two old door knobs on the front for hanging stuff. I found the wrought iron shelf brackets at Hobby Lobby for 70% off! This Girl is doing a happy dance today!!


clipped on: 11.05.2013 at 09:23 pm    last updated on: 11.05.2013 at 09:23 pm

Built my first cattle panel arch trellis today!

posted by: bencjedi on 06.11.2007 at 10:58 pm in Vertical Gardening Forum

All for less than $30 in supplies!
It took over 4 hours to dig the holes for the T-posts. One post especially was very very difficult to dig because a rock the size of those boogie boards at the beach ominously gave zero option for pole placement. I had to bust it up with a sledge hammer before I could dig. I also broke two shovels including one I bought at Lowes Sunday that touted 'Best shovel in the world'. Split it halfway down the spade! The girls behind the return counter busted out laughing, but refunded the money. I was more careful finishing the job. ;)

I planted cucumbers and snap peas this evening. I left a corner spot for potentially a melon of sorts. I could use the other side of the trellis, but am too worm out to do anything for tilling. I think a raised bed on that side would be considerably easier to create.. possibly all the way to the rear of my stockade fence. For now I may just put potted tomato plants there and train them up that side.

Please let me know what you all think.


clipped on: 11.03.2013 at 09:22 pm    last updated on: 11.03.2013 at 09:22 pm

RE: what plants you can grow in vertical gardening? (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: MisterK on 03.04.2013 at 09:32 pm in Vertical Gardening Forum

You can plant pretty much anything in a vertical garden. The vertical challenge isnt what plants grow vertically, they all do...IF you can provide the right structure or system to make it work!

Im in the process of becoming an urban farmer (and dumping the 9 to 5! YES!) and have invented / tested / researched many ways to produce food vertically with as much efficiency as possible. see the below picture for an example...those are over the door shoe organizers i got from walmart. They cost 9$ a piece, are tough enough to survive multiple winters, even outside, and will grow 20 heads of lettuce to almost full size without using a square inch of ground space!

In my backyard, this means i can grow over 5000 lettuces/herbs/strawberries/carrot/onion/etc without using any flat space. When space is limited and youre trying to make a living at this, it counts A LOT!

A combination of many vertical systems works best for optimal results. Those pockets will not grow a large plant such as a beefsteak tomato or an eggplant for example....but for those, I have a different system!

The important points in vertical growing:

-Use a lightweight medium that drains well but holds water well.

-use plants that most efficiently close the space between one another in the system youre using without overlap (for example in the below picture ideal would be to have all of the planter covered in canopy.

-The cheapest your vertical system, the better. Vertical farming, as opposed to flat farming, requires supporting structures, which turns it into an intensive capital activity. The return is really worth thei nvestment IF and only IF you can find a cheap way to set yourself up. I strongly encourage reusing things that would go in the trash. Remember, reusing is always better than recycling. Get creative. Dont buy those overpriced vertical planters, they have sucked up all the benefit youd get out of vertical farmign in their overinflated prices.

-Irrigation is a set yourself up with drip from the start, if youre serious about results that is.

-Nutrients are quickly depleted in a vertical system with limited growing medium. That leaves you with 2 choices: either empty out the system at eevry crop and refill with compost rich medium, or use water soluble nutrients, which makes it easy for drip....your pick

Hmm if anyone has any questions, ask away. I must have read a good 5000 hours on the subject not including all the practical testing and research... :)



clipped on: 11.03.2013 at 09:12 pm    last updated on: 11.03.2013 at 09:12 pm

RE: No room for a compost pile (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: floral_uk on 10.27.2013 at 04:19 am in Soil Forum

I'm sure it works for you but I always wonder, when people say they have no room for a compost heap, just how small their gardens are. I can't help feeling that I prefer to have my single discrete small wooden bin than several shopping bags of rotting kitchen scraps lying about. And it seems like a lot of palaver with the bags, the styrofoam boxes and the procedures. I fill my bin through the year and twice a year I empty it out, remove finished compost and return unfinished to the bin. It takes all the trimmings from my tiny garden as well as the kitchen waste.

What are the dimensions of your yard? Is it smaller than 15 feet by 20?

Can you spot the compost in the photo? No? It's in the back left hand corner completely invisible behind the green shrub.


clipped on: 11.03.2013 at 02:46 pm    last updated on: 11.03.2013 at 02:46 pm

RE: Future home of the outdoor porch (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: mary_lu on 10.31.2013 at 08:05 pm in Cottage Garden Forum

Hey schoolhouse...great memory! Yes, it was me. I am looking forward to seeing your porch! I think there may be several porches without houses out and about now! We still have people stopping occasionally asking about it. Please post pics when you get it built. Hopefully yet this fall! :-)

Here's our porch...(this is an old pic, looked for a more recent one but couldn't find one. It really hasn't changed much, just have roses in front of the picket fence now.)
 photo smalljuly20017-1.jpg


clipped on: 11.02.2013 at 03:02 pm    last updated on: 11.02.2013 at 03:02 pm

Adopt a Milkweed Newbie

posted by: kchd on 10.26.2013 at 09:57 pm in Milkweed Forum

Hi there, fellow milkweed growers!

We have an ongoing thread on the Seed Exchange where those who wish more gardeners would incorporate milkweed into their flowerbeds and plantings can come together to share seeds with those who have never grown milkweed before. If you are interested in joining, please check out the thread.

Happy Gardening!

Here is a link that might be useful: Adopt a Milkweed Newbie


milkweed seed exchange
clipped on: 11.01.2013 at 06:52 pm    last updated on: 11.01.2013 at 06:52 pm

one more thing (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: LaurelLily on 06.14.2005 at 10:12 am in Vines Forum

Oh, I forgot to mention: go ahead and plant it where you want it to climb, but plant it in a container and check it regularly to make sure it hasn't trailed out of the pot and touched the ground (it will root on contact) and also make sure roots aren't growing out drainage holes (which will also cause the plant to root in the ground). And make sure that whatever it's climbing, isn't something that would be hard to replace (a trellis or chicken wire are good, but houses and structures are bad) in case the ivy is attached long enough to do some damage. If you want to avoid the ivy being there long enough to damage it, cut the ivy down to the soil line once a year, remove the cut off ivy branches (give them a week to die and it'll be easier) and let the ivy start over. And if you ever compost ivy, let it cook FIRST before adding it to the compost pile (to cook it, leave the ivy in a plastic bad without any soil, tie the bag off, and ignore it. When it's totally dead, you can compost it. Otherwise, it will just root in your compost).


English ivy
clipped on: 11.01.2013 at 12:17 pm    last updated on: 11.01.2013 at 12:17 pm

RE: Questions about composting (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: kimmsr on 10.25.2013 at 06:39 am in Soil Forum

How quickly your soil would "break down" the newspaper and grass clipping mix will depend on how active a Soil Food Web that soil has, and whether that soil is in good condition, ie. a soil pH and other nutrients in a range tht is good.
Contact your state universities Cooperative Extension Service about having a good, reliable soil test done for soil pH and major nutrient levels and maybe use these simple soil tests,
1) Soil test for organic matter. From that soil sample put enough of the rest to make a 4 inch level in a clear 1 quart jar, with a tight fitting lid. Fill that jar with water and replace the lid, tightly. Shake the jar vigorously and then let it stand for 24 hours. Your soil will settle out according to soil particle size and weight. For example, a good loam will have about 1-3/4 inch (about 45%) of sand on the bottom. about 1 inch (about 25%) of silt next, about 1 inch (25%) of clay above that, and about 1/4 inch (about 5%) of organic matter on the top.

2) Drainage. Dig a hole 1 foot square and 1 foot deep and fill that with water. After that water drains away refill the hole with more water and time how long it takes that to drain away. Anything less than 2 hours and your soil drains’ too quickly and needs more organic matter to slow that drainage down. Anything over 6 hours and the soil drains too slowly and needs lots of organic matter to speed it up.

3) Tilth. Take a handful of your slightly damp soil and squeeze it tightly. When the pressure is released the soil should hold together in that clump, but when poked with a finger that clump should fall apart.

4) Smell. What does your soil smell like? A pleasant, rich earthy odor? Putrid, offensive, repugnant odor? The more organic matter in your soil the more active the soil bacteria will be and the nicer your soil will smell.

5) Life. How many earthworms per shovel full were there? 5 or more indicates a pretty healthy soil. Fewer than 5, according to the Natural Resources Conservation Service, indicates a soil that is not healthy.
for more information about that soil.


good soil indicators
clipped on: 10.28.2013 at 01:28 pm    last updated on: 10.28.2013 at 01:28 pm

RE: How to keep critters out of vegetable garden (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: mskinner 7 (Guest) on 06.22.2011 at 11:29 pm in Ask The Yard Doctor Forum

I have read that laying out chicken wire flat on the ground around your garden will keep deer away, as they don't like stepping on the wire mesh. I am trying it this year. So far, no deer damage.


clipped on: 10.20.2013 at 12:49 am    last updated on: 10.20.2013 at 12:49 am

RE: Suggestions for climbing roses (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: AquaEyes on 10.10.2013 at 11:42 pm in Roses Forum

Throwing in a non-rose climber that you may like for your gazebo, I'd suggest you look into the wisteria 'Blue Moon'. It's a cultivar of one of our native species of wisteria, so no worries about it taking over (or possibly not even being winter-hardy) for you. It also reblooms lightly and intermittently. It might make a nice complimentary climbing companion to whatever roses you select.

Some clematis might be a good idea as well -- many offer blooms during the Summer when many climbing roses aren't doing much.




clipped on: 10.11.2013 at 03:55 am    last updated on: 10.11.2013 at 03:56 am

RE: Which rose is best looking 'shrub' you have? (Follow-Up #29)

posted by: nanadoll on 10.04.2013 at 03:18 pm in Roses Forum

I have another rose with a nice shape I'd like to mention. It's a small floribunda from Tantau of Germany called Bernstein-Rose. I got three of these reliable bloomers to use as small design echos of my large Julia Child roses. The yellow blooms are slightly brighter than Julia's but sometimes, depending on the weather, the blooms are almost a match. B-R does stay small for me, just as described, at about a little less than 3'X3' For all three shrubs. Here's a pic of Bernstein-Rose. A bit of Julia shows in the photo to the right, and behind B-R is Ballerina, a nice shrub, too. Diane


clipped on: 10.10.2013 at 04:34 pm    last updated on: 10.10.2013 at 04:34 pm

RE: Which rose is best looking 'shrub' you have? (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: nanadoll on 10.01.2013 at 02:09 pm in Roses Forum

Hands down, the best looking shrubs I grow are my two 6X6 Julia Child roses, right out front and center in my small front yard. They are still blooming away, in spite an abnormally cool, wet fall, following a scorching summer. I wish I could show my best photos of this rose, but the files are too big, if I use GWs server. Here is a smaller pic of JC. Diane


clipped on: 10.10.2013 at 04:31 pm    last updated on: 10.10.2013 at 04:31 pm

RE: New Dawn Climbing Roses along a fence? (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: lois on 01.18.2010 at 06:01 pm in Cottage Garden Forum

I grow Awakening, a sport of New Dawn, along a low stone wall. The canes drape over and along the wall and it gets better and better every year. I just prune out the dead wood (there's not much of it), and carefully train 2 or 3 errant canes into line every year with the help of leather gloves. No ladders, no reaching up. I planted early daffodils in front of the stone wall (Awakening is behind the wall), and it's all quite low maintenance.

Lois in PA


New Dawn alternative???
clipped on: 10.09.2013 at 11:04 pm    last updated on: 10.09.2013 at 11:04 pm

RE: growth inhibitor in uncomposted coffee grounds? (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: the_virginian on 09.30.2013 at 01:31 am in Soil Forum

I have found that UCGs make a great soil amendment when tilling over a new area. I use them with other soil amendments like compost and leaf mould. In areas where we plant our tender tropicals in the late spring, tilled in UCGs in copious amounts really seems to help jumpstart plants like bananas and elephant ears.


coffee grounds
elephant ears
clipped on: 09.30.2013 at 02:18 pm    last updated on: 09.30.2013 at 02:19 pm

Adopt a Milkweed Newbie

posted by: kchd on 07.21.2013 at 09:50 pm in Native Plants Forum

Hi there, fellow milkweed growers and butterfly lovers!
I've started a thread on the Seed Exchange where those who wish more gardeners would incorporate milkweed into their flowerbeds and plantings can come together to share seeds with those who have never grown milkweed before. If you are interested in joining, please check out the thread.
Adopt a Milkweed Newbie
Happy Gardening!


clipped on: 09.30.2013 at 02:13 pm    last updated on: 09.30.2013 at 02:14 pm

Off topic Alert to the Plight of the Monarch Butterfly

posted by: docmom on 07.15.2013 at 09:38 pm in Native Plants Forum

Because of a combination of bad luck, drought, development of subdivisions, and the near eradication of milkweed plants in the agricultural regions with Round-Up ready crops, the incredible Monarch butterfly has declined dramatically in just the past year. There were about one third the number of butterflies overwintering last season as there had been just one year earlier.
But, we can pull them back from the brink by simply planting milkweed, which the baby caterpillars need to eat, and planting flowers that can provide nectar to support them on their long flight to Mexico in the fall and then back north in the spring.

For more information, visit Monarch Watch to learn more about where you can purchase milkweed plants or seeds, and which are the best nectar plants (including many annuals). Thanks for your attention to this critical issue. Together we can have a huge impact.


Here is a link that might be useful: Monarch Watch


clipped on: 09.30.2013 at 02:03 pm    last updated on: 09.30.2013 at 02:03 pm

RE: Deer resistant roses? (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: lavender_lass on 08.13.2010 at 07:07 pm in Antique Roses Forum

So far, the deer have left my Snow Pavement rugosa roses alone...for the most part. They have chewed on Therese Bugent, but not been back. The John Cabot roses are chomped on periodically, but they're still trying to bloom!

I have three baby deer this year (and two does) who travel back and forth along our creek. So far, they've ignored most of the beds against the house...but I plant a LOT of lavender, salvia, blueberries, butterfly bushes and lilacs, along with cosmos, alyssum, veronica, and lots of herbs. I need to put more herbs in the kitchen garden (where the deer have been trying things) and that may help.

As for electric wires, I've read that before, but it doesn't work here. We have a five wire electric fence around the horse pasture. I've watched the deer jump over it, crawl through it and shimmy under it. In fact, a few years ago, one of our baby horses watched the deer and started crawling through the fence from the winter pasture into the summer pasture. Thank goodness, he's too big to do that, now :)


clipped on: 09.28.2013 at 06:26 pm    last updated on: 09.28.2013 at 06:26 pm

RE: Rose newbie, need advice about climber (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: AquaEyes on 03.24.2013 at 11:29 am in Roses Forum

To open your climber options further, consider roses which either don't repeat at all, or have "stingy rebloom." You can find some that are thornless and are easier to work with. The old thornless standby 'Zephrine Drouhin' ( comes to mind. Many who write about it here say it doesn't repeat for its first few years as its putting on growth (and for some, it doesn't repeat much or at all even then).

Another thornless option could be the old Hybrid Perpetual 'Reine des Violettes' ( which will grow long canes that may be pillared around your posts.

When the rose reaches the size you desire and has been trained accordingly, plant a type 2 or 3 clematis near its base. The clematis will use the rose as its trellis, and offer blooms when the rose is finished.

If you choose a type 2, there will be some overlap during the clematis' first bloom cycle, then a lull during the peak of summer, followed by a rebloom of the clematis in late summer. The type 2 clematis won't need much (if any) pruning.

If you choose a type 3, the clematis will start blooming after the rose and continue for most of the summer. The type 3 clematis will bloom only on new wood, so would need to be pruned back to about a foot or two in height every spring. While it will offer blooms most of the summer, you might not want to deal with pruning and removing dead growth from within the rose every year, so each has its pros and cons.




clipped on: 09.26.2013 at 10:09 pm    last updated on: 09.26.2013 at 10:09 pm

RE: Rose newbie, need advice about climber (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: Thorntorn on 03.24.2013 at 02:30 am in Roses Forum

Climbing roses are generally very thorny, they come with the territory. They need their thorns to "climb." Since they really don't climb, but with their gangly, over sized canes they reach out and grab something holding with their thorns. Thorns take the place of tendrils, twining stems, or hold fast roots. Of course, we come along and tie climbing roses up to some sort of support, but left to their own devices many a climber has nearly overwhelmed a tree it was planted by, merely by its own devices, thorns.

Characteristics of repeat blooming climbers are:

1. Luxuriant first flush followed by a skimpy repeat. The bigger the climber, the more prone to be skimpy repeating. Shorter climbing roses, those which produce shorter canes repeat more dependably. Shorter climbers will probably not work on your front porch since its gutter is about ?9? feet from the ground (in time you may consider a rail around your porch for safety).

2. Take more years to mature than any other roses.

3. Generally are more winter hardy, disease and insect resistant, and vigorous than other roses.

You have a beautiful, charming home...a doll's house by any standard. A little imagination and time will have your home and garden, the one people out for a ride, must come down your street to pass by and admire.

Here are my recommendations...research them thoroughly.

1. New Dawn...Bashfully abundant first flush followed by stingy repeat. The individual flower has a lovely form. Almost a cast iron rose regarding disease and insect problems. This rose is held in great regard world wide and rightfully so. Alas, no or little fragrance on 2 1/2" very double flowers in clusters. A good New Dawn in full bloom will almost obliterate its foliage from view by its lavish bloom. You will probably never have to spray this rose. (Never say never!)

2. William Baffin...Another work horse climber. Lavish first flush, stingy repeat. It has large, almost 4" double but flat when open, hot pink blooms in clusters with little or no fragrance. Just about as dependable as New Dawn. Can get even bigger, but both New Dawn and William Baffin are easy to control if kept after with a yearly pruning.

3. Darlow's Enigma...1 1/2" single snow white blooms in clusters...first lavish bloom followed by a better than average repeat for a climber. Flowers are extremely fragrant. Grows like its greatest joy in life is to get bigger. Just about equal to the earlier two climbers in hardiness, disease and insect resistance.

4. Jeanne Lajoie...climbing miniature rose. Only the flowers, very full, in clusters, 1 1/2" across, and foliage are miniature. The canes can get 12-14 feet long very easily. This rose can cover a work shed in no time. It does have some black spot issues, and can get spider mites, so I would only plant Jeanne Lajoie if its beauty overwhelmed me and I had to have it, knowing some spraying will probably be needed.

Last but not least (after this climber there is a whole sea of climbers that may work, the above climbers WILL work).

5. Westerland Large, double orange/apricot blend double, open, very fragrant blooms in clusters of no more than 7 or so. This is the only large flowered climber I recommend and it is fragrant too, but it may not fill out at the top of the space provided for it on your porch.

You need to determine how you will fasten the canes to your porch. I have an idea that will work and is not only very inexpensive but almost invisible.

I used to be in the horticulture business...

Here is a method for the perfect lawn, lawn service companies will ring your door bell wanting to know who cares for your lawn:

Mow frequently, every time more than an inch needs to come off the top. This means about every 5 days in Spring. Keep mower set at 3" all year long, never deviate from this setting. Keep mower blades as sharp as a surgeon's scalpel. Use only a mulching mower set on mulch at all times. Grass is never bagged but returned to the soil immediately when cut.

You don't mow when you feel like it, but when the lawn needs it. During a hot dry summer, you may not mow for two weeks or more.

Improve your lawn grasses now and again, every 3 years minimum. Do this by scalping the lawn in early spring. Mow down to 1/2" to 1". Exposed soil here and there is good. Rake up the cut stuff this time, compost or discard. Over seed with a blend of about 6 different varieties of improved modern perennial rye grasses for full sun locations, and add some improved modern tall fescues for shady lawns. No blue grass seed what so ever. Apply seed, water it in, and watch it germinate in less than a week, abut 5 days. Mow first time
when grass is just over 3" tall. New and old grass will grow together and blend. Old grass may die out (choked by new,more vigorous grass...on a plant by plant basis..not in patches) if it is not as tough as newly seeded grass, so the most vigorous grass plants emerge as winners, making for the easiest to maintain lawn. If the old grass is the victor, so be it.

Soil test every three years to determine pH. Apply lime only as needed. If its application is not indicated, do not apply it. Lime-ing a lawn in Spring is often a waste of time and money. Many landscapers do it routinely because the homeowner expects it.

Fertilize with milorganite three times a year. Follow application rates on bag. One in early spring, March. Second in early June, and third in late September.

MiIlorganite is very safe for people and pets, and children. it does not require to be watered in. It does not burn. Children and pest can play on it right after it is applied.

The modern perennial rye replaces blue grass in lawns. Blue grass is a water hog, is disease prone, not tough for foot traffic, and cannot stay growing when temps go into the mid seventy's, going dormant and turning yellow, then brown. These new ryes are bred to look like blue grasses, but stay green all summer, take a beating, and require less water. Perennial rye does not grow at its best in shade so some tall fescue is always added for shady spots.

A lawn so grown and managed will become weed free in time. Weeds cannot grow in a thick lawn.

Hope I have been of help to you.


clipped on: 09.26.2013 at 09:17 pm    last updated on: 09.26.2013 at 09:17 pm

RE: Rose newbie looking for a great climber! (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: kittymoonbeam on 03.18.2013 at 11:43 pm in Roses Forum

Remember climbers always bloom better spread out and not just going straight up. You can zigzag them across a trellis or arch them over something or splay them out on a wall or tie down on a fence. I never got the full value of my climbers until I started doing these things.


clipped on: 09.26.2013 at 09:04 pm    last updated on: 09.26.2013 at 09:04 pm

RE: Rose newbie looking for a great climber! (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: dublinbay on 03.17.2013 at 07:23 pm in Roses Forum

Check out David Austin's The Pilgrim (a white/yellow blend) or Teasing Georgia (stronger yellow/touch of apricot). They both get good ratings and should look good on brick.

You can order them from David Austin (bareroot and grafted) or potted from Roses Unlimited or from Chamblees (I think--not sure on that one)--probably ownroot from those two places. A number of other places would sell them also.

I also just recently saw Lady Ashe sold at Chamblees--I think she is wonderful (pinkish) and the description is great--fragrant and disease-resistant, just the height you want. If I had an open spot, I would order it immediately!

Hope that helps.



clipped on: 09.26.2013 at 09:03 pm    last updated on: 09.26.2013 at 09:03 pm

RE: Looking for a white rose (Follow-Up #10)

posted by: molineux on 03.18.2013 at 04:53 pm in Roses Forum

I understand how you feel. My late father had his favorite rose (Mister Lincoln) and whenever I see a perfectly shaped velvety red bloom I think of him. Do yourself a favor and purchase two of JOHN F. KENNEDY. That way you'll have one for yourself. JFK does produce beautifully formed large blooms that possess a very strong fragrance; something that can't be said for many white Hybrid Teas.

Image of JFK by Jeaneli-5b Nova Scotia at Hortiplex


clipped on: 09.26.2013 at 12:14 am    last updated on: 09.26.2013 at 12:14 am

RE: Roses purchased from recommendations from this forum? (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: dublinbay on 01.25.2012 at 09:16 am in Roses Forum

The entire narrow bed between my neighbor's (ugly) garage and my driveway was planned by this forum. Here is a picture of the results:


All I knew for sure was that I wanted big fat blooms on taller and more vertical plants than my selections elsewhere in the yard. Ah, yes, disease-resistance also. After long discussions and deliberations on this forum, we decided on the hybrid teas Peter Mayle (hot pink) and Elina (white/pale yellow blend), and the hybrid perpetual Mrs. John Laing (light pink). I think the results are wonderful, especially when I added the blue pansies at their feet.

Another rose selected by group discussion on this forum was Easter Basket, a frilly white/pink/pale yellowish blend of a floribunda--supposed to be disease-resistant. Loved the bloom, but didn't get much chance to appreciate its other virtues because it promptly came down with RRD. I was so disappointed and had to spade it. However, I liked the bloom enough that I decided to order another one for this spring. Hope it goes better.

I know I'm had many choices influenced by this forum. The above ones were probably the most direct and extensive involvement of the forum in my selections, and I thank everyone who participated. Thank you, thank you, thank you.



Elina for vases???
clipped on: 09.25.2013 at 10:58 pm    last updated on: 09.25.2013 at 10:58 pm

RE: Recs Needed for A Climber (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: AquaEyes on 02.18.2013 at 02:11 pm in Roses Forum

You're welcome!

The number of clematis varieties out there is almost as overwhelming as the number of roses, and as they're more part of my garden's plan as supporting cast rather than the stars, I actually prefer having fewer choices to agonize over. I've had good luck with clematis from Bluestone Perennials and Brushwood Nursery. Between them both, I can find just about anything I could want to compliment a big rose.

My "plan" (if you can call such a rough idea that) for starting this new garden here was to let the larger roses I have coming gain some size, and then stepping back and thinking about what general kind of clematis would "feel" right climbing up them (this one would like something purple and single, that one would like something white and double, type 2 or type 3, etc.). This means waiting a year or so as the roses gain some size and I get a feel for how they will behave here. Then I'll look through the two nurseries' websites to find a match.




clematis websites
clipped on: 09.25.2013 at 09:29 pm    last updated on: 09.25.2013 at 09:30 pm

RE: Clematis suggetion to NOT bloom with New Dawn Rose (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: t-bred on 02.17.2013 at 03:33 pm in Roses Forum

I grow Sweet Autumn for it's late ( September here) flowers and wonderful smell. We do prune it back hard in late winter/early spring and it grows back gangbusters every year. Would be a nice compliment for your New Dawn.


clipped on: 09.25.2013 at 09:15 pm    last updated on: 09.25.2013 at 09:15 pm

RE: Clematis suggetion to NOT bloom with New Dawn Rose (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: ispahan on 02.15.2013 at 05:39 pm in Roses Forum

I think that an early spring flowering Type 1 clematis might be a poor choice for 'New Dawn'. These are not pruned and have amazing winter hardiness, so it will keep building up on itself as the years go by, eventually choking out the rose. It would also complicate pruning the rose. I recently inquired on another forum about growing Type 1/Atragene clematis on a tree in my front garden, and was told they tend to look very messy out of season, so it is not a good choice for a prominent location.

I would definitely go with a Type 3 clematis, too. You will have some rose and clematis blooms coincide, but the clematis will add greatly to length of bloom and visual impact from the rose.

Now the fun decision is what clematis you will choose! A white like 'Huldine', 'John Huxtable' or 'Alba Luxurians' would look elegant, or a light lavender-blue like 'Emilia Plater', 'Prince Charles' or 'Betty Corning' could also be very pretty. A deeper pink like 'Ville de Lyon', 'Barbara Harrington' or 'Princess Diana' would provide a striking monochromatic contrast. The darker purples would also look nice, and I love 'Rooguchi' growing with pink flowers.

If you do insist on planting two clematis, make sure you give the rose a head start of at least a year. Even though the clematis also take time to mature, they will eventually be much more vigorous than the rose, even a thug like 'New Dawn'.

Also, if you do choose two clematis, I would choose one classic open-faced cultivar (like 'Huldine') and one bell-shaped cultivar (like 'Rooguchi'). That way, you will not only have the contrasting colors but also the contrasting bloom forms.

You can also e-mail the owner of Silver Star Vinery. She could probably help point you in the right direction. Her plants are said to be superb. I have many on order for spring :-)


clipped on: 09.25.2013 at 09:12 pm    last updated on: 09.25.2013 at 09:12 pm

Garden Watchdog Top Five Awards for Rose Nurseries

posted by: Tessiess on 01.30.2013 at 12:23 pm in Roses Forum

There was a recent announcement of award winners for 2012 on the DG website. For rose nurseries these are:

Antique and Species Roses
High Country Roses
Antique Rose Emporium
Northland Rosarium
Angel Gardens
Pickering Nurseries

Modern Roses
High Country Roses
Northland Rosarium
Burlington Rose Nursery
Angel Gardens
Palatine Roses

The awards are based on positive reviews in 2012.



clipped on: 09.25.2013 at 08:00 pm    last updated on: 09.25.2013 at 08:00 pm

RE: Want to help me plan a garden? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: rosefolly on 09.03.2013 at 11:51 am in Cottage Garden Forum

What a good looking shed you have there, tidy and sturdy. It can be a focal point to center the garden. I am crazy about roses, so I would start by training a climbing rose up a trellis at one end of it.

As for reseeders, you do not have to include them unless you want to. Think about your personality. I thought I wanted them but it turns out they irritate me beyond description, always popping up where I don't want them at all. But I did not know that until I tried them. It seems that I want abundance with structure, not wild abandon.

Evergreens to hide your utility area sound like a good idea to me. If you are thinking about dwarf conifers you might want to check out the conifer forum. There are some very knowledgeable people there. As for gardenias, I didn't know that there were any frost proof ones; there may be. Rhododendrons could give you a similar effect and laugh off the cold. Lavenders are mostly tender, too, though the English lavenders can tolerate more cold than other types. Those might work for you.

Here are some flowers I associate with cottage gardens.

Roses (first, of course, and old-fashioned ones rather than modern hybrid teas)
Delphiniums (need lots of compost)
Hardy geraniums (also called cranesbill geraniums, not the same as the pelargoniums most people call geraniums)
Phlox (get mildew-resistant ones)
Dianthus (one kind is even called 'cottage pinks')
Sedum 'Autumn Joy' (easy and great for late season color)
Salvias (especially S. nemorosa and S. sylvestris varieties)
Bellflowers (campanula)
Coral bells (heuchera)

Have fun, and be sure to take lots of pictures along the way.


Here is a link that might be useful: This Old House article on cottage gardens

This post was edited by rosefolly on Tue, Sep 3, 13 at 11:55


cottage flowers
clipped on: 09.23.2013 at 11:44 pm    last updated on: 09.23.2013 at 11:44 pm

Garden Newbie advice (Follow-Up #13)

posted by: gardenweed_z6a on 08.07.2013 at 08:51 pm in Cottage Garden Forum

There's so much information available to you via the Internet. Check out Swallowtail Garden Seeds' website as well as Hazzard's if you've a large area to fill. White Flower Farms, Santa Rosa Gardens & Bluestone Perennials all have websites with perennial information you can access & from which you can learn what plants need aside from basic soil, water & light.

For information about winter sowing, be sure to access the GW winter sowing forum.

I'm extremely fortunate my Mom & Dad practiced organic gardening here 40+ years before I moved back home. I now benefit by their stewardship & enjoy a garden I can not only enjoy but be proud isn't chemically enhanced.


clipped on: 09.23.2013 at 11:13 pm    last updated on: 09.23.2013 at 11:13 pm

RE: Cottage Garden Newbie! *advice please?* (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: nhbabs on 08.06.2013 at 07:51 pm in Cottage Garden Forum

Congratulations on having acquired a home with space to garden and welcome to Garden Web. You have gotten a good start on your garden bed, but as it currently is, you don't have enough depth to plant more than a single line of plants, so I would make it at least 4 feet wide if not wider. That will give you enough depth to have at least a couple of plants deep in many places and therefore have something of interest all along the garden for much of the year. If you decide to make the edges curve, help prevent DH having something else to complain about by making any curves lawnmower friendly so that he can mow easily along the edge from either direction. I'd also suggest a buried edging of some sort so that grass doesn't invade the beds. It will make maintenance easier. Check out winter sowing as a way to get new perennials inexpensively to help fill out the beds, and use mulch between plants to prevent weeds until the perennial plants get large enough.

A couple points to consider on the plants:
Around here red lily beetles eat lilies and Fritillaria, so check to be sure that it isn't a problem in your part of the country before ordering Fritillaria.

I don't want to carp, but lily of the valley can be enjoyed without being allowed to grow loose in a general perennial bed. I'd plant it inside a large diameter plastic pot with the bottom cut out and set in the bed up to the rim to serve as a root barrier. That way you can enjoy the scent and the flowers without cursing the plant for its overly enthusiastic spreading tendencies further down the road.

You have a nice selection of spring to early summer flowers, and probably want to add some flowers for later in the summer and into fall. You may want some small flowering shrubs to give some structure for when the perennials freeze back in late autumn and winter, or add a trellis tower/obelisk for vines.

Another thing to think about which might add to the cottage feel would be a tree with flowers that could add shade to the patio so you can enjoy it even in hot weather. It need not be in the bed, but should be where it will give shade when you are most likely to be wanting to use the patio.

Enjoy the process! Gardens are always open for revision and so if you don't like things the way they are, you can always change things.


lily of the valley advice
clipped on: 09.23.2013 at 11:06 pm    last updated on: 09.23.2013 at 11:06 pm

Off Topic Alert to the Plight of the Monarch Butterfly

posted by: docmom on 07.15.2013 at 09:56 pm in Cottage Garden Forum

Because of a combination of bad luck, drought, development of subdivisions, and the near eradication of milkweed plants in the agricultural regions with Round-Up ready crops, the incredible Monarch butterfly has declined dramatically in just the past year. There were about one third the number of butterflies overwintering last season as there had been just one year earlier.
But, we can pull them back from the brink by simply planting milkweed, which the baby caterpillars need to eat, and planting flowers that can provide nectar to support them on their long flight to Mexico in the fall and then back north in the spring.

For more information, visit Monarch Watch to learn more about where you can purchase milkweed plants or seeds, and which are the best nectar plants (including many annuals). Thanks for your attention to this critical issue. Together we can have a huge impact.


Here is a link that might be useful: Monarch Watch


clipped on: 09.23.2013 at 10:49 pm    last updated on: 09.23.2013 at 10:49 pm

Building my Irish Shed

posted by: camaria on 11.13.2008 at 01:19 pm in Cottage Garden Forum

Hi everyone,

I've been admiring all the lovely garden and shed pictures here and thought I'd throw in my newly completed project. This summer, my husband was set on buying a vinyl storage shed (as I have a terrible habit of storing and using power tools in our unfinished basement. You wouldn't believe how hard it is to tow a table saw upstairs and outside every time you need to use it!) I somehow convinced him to go another route and built a cordwood shed with me.

I've always been interested in cordwood building and just happened to find a book on building sheds with a cordwood masonry project in it. Poor hubby's dreams of lazy summer weekends were done for! Anyways, we got it all finished and I'm just proud as punch with the results. Had to share!

Irish Shed

Best window I've ever built! (I've never built a window before this)

Irish Shed

Irish Shed

First wall took an entire weekend to fill in. We did the back wall first so that we'd be all practiced up by the time we got to the front!

Irish Shed

Irish Shed

View from the wildflower meadow.

Irish Shed

Stained glass window made of coloured jars.


clipped on: 09.23.2013 at 10:37 pm    last updated on: 09.23.2013 at 10:38 pm

RE: Nice hardy shrub rose? (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: aftermidnight on 04.10.2013 at 03:02 pm in Cottage Garden Forum

David Austin's shrub rose 'Gertrude Jekyll' is a favorite of mine, lovely old rose fragrance and bonus, a repeat bloomer. Supposed to be hardy to Z5 but to be on the safe side I'd try to find one grown on it's own roots. Ht. 3-6 ft. but pruning shears could keep it lower.



clipped on: 09.22.2013 at 11:57 pm    last updated on: 09.22.2013 at 11:57 pm

RE: Nice hardy shrub rose? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: nhbabs on 04.10.2013 at 02:10 pm in Cottage Garden Forum

Do you care if it is scented? If not, I have heard great things about the Knockout series as far as disease resistance, long bloom season, and ease of care. Pink Double Knockout might fit your needs.

I have grown The Fairy and it bloomed for a log time with clusters of many small double roses. Often more roses than leaves were visible because it was so full of flowers. It also is unscented.

You could also ask on the roses forum.


clipped on: 09.22.2013 at 11:56 pm    last updated on: 09.22.2013 at 11:57 pm

RE: Favorite cottage garden blog? (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: fluffyflowers on 04.29.2013 at 09:09 am in Cottage Garden Forum


clipped on: 09.22.2013 at 11:51 pm    last updated on: 09.22.2013 at 11:52 pm

RE: need some evergreen in my cottage/rose bed (Follow-Up #10)

posted by: daisyincrete on 03.24.2013 at 03:28 am in Cottage Garden Forum

Tammy, It is a David Austin rose. It's Teasing Georgia.
There is one each side of a tiny pergola. They were planted three years ago. They seem to be pretty vigorous, which is just as well, as they have to compete with two Plumbago capensis, one Solanum ratonettii, one Aristolochia elegans and a Thunbergia alata African Sunset! Luckily all the other plants are younger.
Here it is from the other angle.

 photo 102-1.jpg

...and with the plumbago

 photo 040-7.jpg

...and with Dahlia Arabian Nights

 photo 059-3.jpg

ilovemyroses, I can't believe that I forgot to suggest Osmanthus delavayi. I used to grow it clipped into balls along a border, when I lived in England.
I pinched the idea, after visiting Christopher Lloyd's garden at Great Dixter and seeing he used it like that there.
It flowers in early spring with white flowers which have a gorgeous fragrance. After flowering, I would give them a hard trim to keep it's ball shape. That worked very well.
They gave a satisfying rhythm to the border.

Here is a link that might be useful: Osmanthus delavayi


clipped on: 09.22.2013 at 09:13 pm    last updated on: 09.22.2013 at 09:13 pm

inspiration (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: schoolhouse on 08.12.2012 at 02:10 pm in Cottage Garden Forum

Wow, lots of info online. Here is a photo showing the color inspiration, however mine will not be this shape. Also, one article mentioned Spring being the best time to plant the hedges, but Fall has worked out for me in the past. Now this year it may be different tho because of this summer's drought.

It would be great to find true dwarf boxwood but I have never seen this but once, and I have two intermixed with some wintergem boxwood. You can tell because the foliage is much smaller and it grows much slower. I used it to replace two boxwood plants that had died. Lowes advertises Dwarf Boxwood but to me it looks completely different.


clipped on: 09.22.2013 at 07:54 pm    last updated on: 09.22.2013 at 07:54 pm

Garden pics- ready as I'll ever be

posted by: hosenemesis on 05.03.2012 at 01:24 am in Cottage Garden Forum

Hi cottage gardeners,
My garden will be on the San Fernando Valley Iris Tour on Saturday, so I have really cleaned it up. Unfortunately, the irises and the roses are about done, but there are some other flowers blooming well now. I took a bunch of pictures today, and here are a few. It was overcast today so a good day to take photos!


Bishop's Castle rose

Plum Pretty Whiskers Iris

Side yard:




Showbiz roses






clipped on: 09.22.2013 at 07:32 pm    last updated on: 09.22.2013 at 07:33 pm

need trellis design ideas

posted by: ianna on 05.16.2012 at 04:45 pm in Cottage Garden Forum

Hi all,

I need some ideas on trellis design. I've a large window and I would like to surround it with clematis. I'm utlizing a trellis wall kit (Lee Valley Tools) which utilizes wire and hooks and can be designed to any shape or size.

Take a look at this link. Tell me if the design around the door would also be suitable to surround a window. If so I will need probably 2 clematis plants on each side.

Here is a link that might be useful: trellis wall kit


clipped on: 09.22.2013 at 05:04 pm    last updated on: 09.22.2013 at 05:04 pm

RE: A hardy, tall, constantly blooming pink climbing rose for 5b? (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: organic_kitten on 04.27.2012 at 11:01 pm in Cottage Garden Forum

New Dawn will grow as outlined and then some, and will smother itself in blooms in the spring, but is much more sporadic in its blooming the rest of the year. (INHO) Here is mine this week. She is five years old, own root, grown from a band.




clipped on: 09.22.2013 at 03:31 pm    last updated on: 09.22.2013 at 03:31 pm

RE: Direct sowing seeds between stepping stone (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: natalie4b on 04.29.2012 at 07:41 am in Cottage Garden Forum

Elfin thyme is my favorite - creates a tight nice green carpet. Very low maintenance.


thyme suppresses weeds
clipped on: 09.22.2013 at 03:15 pm    last updated on: 09.22.2013 at 03:15 pm

RE: Need Inspiration: Show Me The Pics! (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: gardenweed_z6a on 04.12.2012 at 07:49 am in Cottage Garden Forum

I used a plastic form, mixed up cement and laid a curved walkway along the edge of what has evolved into a full shade bed north side of my house. I'm growing hardy geranium from seed and will plant them along the edge of the walkway opposite the hostas.

Next I used the hundreds of patio bricks I dug up everywhere to lay a walkway behind the garage with beds on either side that I'm gradually filling with winter sown perennials. The fence is also repurposed from another area of the garden where it was simply decorative. Now it stands at the top of a short, very steep hill.


cement path
clipped on: 09.22.2013 at 02:57 pm    last updated on: 09.22.2013 at 02:58 pm

chicks and hens flowering- for all you sempervivum NUTS like me

posted by: friend on 06.13.2006 at 10:16 am in Garden Junk Forum

I promised you all i'd send pics when the hens flowered so here you go!
I never get this many hen flowers in one year.. usually it's one a year or none at all some years. weird
Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting
and Image Hosting">


clipped on: 09.21.2013 at 12:55 pm    last updated on: 09.21.2013 at 12:55 pm

D. Landreth Seed Co. Philly

posted by: corgitrbl on 01.20.2013 at 10:14 am in Winter Sowing Forum

I had forgotten about this seed co. Being a close to Philly girl I remember reading Gramps catalogs of this co. NPR has a radio show about it stating that Geo. Wash. and other Presidents frequented this store. It is a fun read and I like the bag of seeds and the Blue Lace flower.



clipped on: 09.21.2013 at 11:19 am    last updated on: 09.21.2013 at 11:19 am