Clippings by Imsunflwr1

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RE: I want Salvia guaranitica (Follow-Up #12)

posted by: naturelover68 on 09.17.2009 at 10:33 am in Salvia Forum

Salvia guaranitica is easy to overwinter in a cool basement. I've been doing it for several years and I've never had one die. I dig them up in the fall, remove most of the soil and pot them in pots with potting soil. I keep them barely moist all winter in the dark. In late winter they start to grow. I move them to an area in the basement that gets a little more light. That is the time I also take cuttings. They root best for me in water. I put them in a south window in my house in jars of water and when there are suffient roots, I pot them up and wait for warm weather so they can be planted outside.
My black and blues set a lot of seed last year which they have never done in the past. Seedlings were germinating all over my garden this spring so I let a lot of them grow to find out if they came true from seed. They all looked similar to black and blue except for one which is a light blue color that is a little darker than Argentine Skies.


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clipped on: 08.12.2011 at 07:15 pm    last updated on: 08.12.2011 at 07:15 pm

RE: Using dowloaded .jef files in Janome 9500 (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: islay_corbel on 07.12.2006 at 04:47 am in Embroidery Forum

First,How are you getting on?
There's no simpler machine than a Janome embroidery machine. Have you formatted your card? Just put it in the machine and it does it for you. Then, you'll see 2 files on the card. Save the designs to the emb. file.


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Janome
clipped on: 08.10.2011 at 03:55 pm    last updated on: 08.10.2011 at 03:56 pm

RE: Outdoor butterflies on a stick? (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: slowmedown on 03.25.2011 at 02:53 pm in Stained Glass & Mosaics Forum

When I was making my own mortar, I used three parts sand to one part Portland cement - maybe a little more cement to make it a tad stronger. Once I used up all the Portland cement, I decided it's easier for me to use the Quikcrete Mortar Mix, cuz the Portland comes in 96-lb bags. It had to sit in My Jeep until my yardman w/take it out and put the bag into my garage. It's just too much for my purposes. The Mortar Mix comes in 40-lb bags (there's a bag in the Jeep now waiting for my yardman), and I sift it and add water - in a wheelbarrow/hoe. Use a little water in the beginning, working up to a nice consistency that you can pick up w/gloved hand and make a nice soft ball - not too wet and not too dry - crumbly. Keep adding water a little at a time, mix thoroughly b/f you add more water. You'll get the hang of it w/practice, and b/f long, you'll know just how much to add. It is sooooooooo easy to use this technique w/the wire mesh/mortar, that you'll be quite surprised at the ease. The possibilities are endless. You'll no longer have to look for substrates, forms or moulds - BUILD THEM!!! There's nothing you can't do w/this technique. If you get so confident that you want to build a small bench, chair, table etc., use the diamond lath - cuz it's stronger. Three tools necessary - get the Wiss tin snips, a good linesman's pliers and the 17 - 18 or 19 guage wire for stitches. Put a crook in one end of the wire - making a "needle". Slip the wire into your armature, catch the two layers of mesh, pull out, and w/your pliers catch hold of the end of the little hook and pull it through, twist it and w/the pliers wind it once/twice and viola - a stitch. Repeat until your armature is all put together and you w/be soooooo proud of what you've done. I can't wait for you to try this and report back to us.


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good info on stitching armature
clipped on: 07.14.2011 at 02:09 pm    last updated on: 07.14.2011 at 02:10 pm

RE: Slurry is my new best friend (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: loribee2 on 04.23.2011 at 06:48 pm in Stained Glass & Mosaics Forum

Thanks ladies!

Addiesue, my plan is to mosaic him, though this step has turned out so much better than I expected, I may make other sculptures that just get stained. I like the idea of mosaic on this one because it really lends itself to water and scales.

My Lowes does sell Portland cement in 60 lb bags, so I mix my own mortar. I made my slurry with 2 parts cement and about 1 1/2 parts water.

I really appreciate the kind words. He's been so fun. I never realized how much I'd enjoy sculpting something with my hands. There's a lot of gratification in taking a pile of hardware and ending up with something beautiful. And I have to keep giving credit where credit is due. I'm pretty sure it was the nice people on this forum who told me I HAD to try armature. LOL You were right!


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saved for the slurry recipe.
clipped on: 07.14.2011 at 11:18 am    last updated on: 07.14.2011 at 11:18 am

RE: Slurry is my new best friend (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: slowmedown on 04.23.2011 at 06:22 pm in Stained Glass & Mosaics Forum

LORI: I'm still in awe of your project. Absolutely wonderful. Re your sand - you can sift the mortar to take out the larger aggregate, but remember - that's what the mortar IS - sand and Portland cement. ADDIE: Slurry is a thinned down version of the mortar - add water to your mortar to make a nice mixture that you can brush on w/a a paint brush. At least that's what I do. If you use the Mapei polymer modified mortar, it's even smoother. If you have access to silica sand, mix your own mortar - two or three parts silica sand to one part Portland cement. The reason I don't mix my own is the cement comes in a 96 lb. bag. I just use the mortar mix, and I sift out the larger rocks to make it smoother. Even when I don't add the slurry, I go over the whole thing w/a brush to smooth. LORI: Your finish is BEAUTIFUL. I LOVE what Mr. Sea sits on. Good job all around. Awwwwwwww - TWO WEEKS!!!!!!!!!


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Kept this for the "slurry" part.
clipped on: 07.14.2011 at 11:11 am    last updated on: 07.14.2011 at 11:12 am

RE: Glass Flower questions (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: concretenprimroses on 05.13.2010 at 08:42 am in Garden Junk Forum

Hi and welcome. You will have so much fun with the flowers!
I've pretty much converted to the spoon method because you can hang it on anything. But they would be more easily stolen, so if I put one in my front yard I might go back to a pipe fitting.
I have ge ii to metal in my garden but some of it failed, so I started the experiment in the post below. Other people also weigh in.
I'm using ge ii on all glass to glass and automotive goop on glass to metal.
The key with goops is to get some on both parts then let it cure for a while then stick together. An easy way to do this is to put a generous amount on one part (the spoon for example) then stick it where it will go and immediately carefully separate again. Now you have goop on both parts and need to let it cure until it becomes tacky (3 to 10 minutes), then stick together again, holding firmly for a bit. Some people then tape or add weight.
You don't have to do this process with the ge II for windows and doors, clear, for your glass to glass. Just be sure to get the clear!
By the way, lots of people use ge ii to attach metal things to bowling balls and it lasts. I think it sometimes becomes a problem with plate flowers because they are much heavier than, say, a penny on a bowling ball.
Be sure to post pictures of what you make. We are visual people here and LOVE pictures!
Kathy

Here is a link that might be useful: Kathys adhesive tests and more


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clipped on: 06.23.2011 at 09:57 pm    last updated on: 06.23.2011 at 09:57 pm

RE: Preliminary Plate flower adhesive results (Follow-Up #22)

posted by: pesky1 on 01.20.2010 at 01:00 am in Garden Junk Forum

A key to GOOP products is to apply a small amount to each surface to be glued. Let it stand for a few minutes, till it gets a tacky film on it. Then join the 2 pieces, and for very best results, clamp it. I always used masking tape to hold the pieces together for at least 24 hrs and never had any trouble with GOOP coming apart.

I used to make totems and other glass/metal (copper) garden art for years and sold more than I can remember and none ever came back for repairs, and I used Plumbers Goop exclusively. Oddly enough, I never had good luck with GEII.

Never waste your time on those 2 part epoxies..they are just not accurately measured enough, and you have to really mix them a lot to get the chemicals to activate. Plus it does have a tendency to get brittle. Stick with the liquid/gel products such as the GEII and GOOP. (Also, the GOOP products are all pretty much the same formulation BTW)


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clipped on: 06.23.2011 at 09:27 pm    last updated on: 06.23.2011 at 09:27 pm

RE: More Crystal Plate Flowers (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: becky_ia on 04.24.2008 at 12:16 am in Garden Junk Forum

Ok Robin, I will tell! First of all I search all the good will, second-hand, bargain stores for any crystal looking glass. First piece has to be the largest and a small plate works the best. Second piece should be curved and smaller (ash trays, small candy dishes, custard/ice cream cups. Third should be the smallest, candle holders seem to work the best. They all have to fit inside each other. And..NO GLUE.

We use a glass/tile drill bit and drill a hole in the middle of each piece. Then insert a long screw through all three pieces and secure with a nut to the copper stake. The stakes are 1/2 " copper tubing purchased at my local hardware store and it is expensive...about $2 per foot!

Next, drill a hole in the copper tubing and insert the screw through the three pieces of glass and the copper tubing. Attach with a nut and tighten slightly. Embellish with jewlery.

The leaves- wire I also found at the local hardware store called plastic coated cable. You drill a small hole where you want to add the leaves. Take a piece of the green cable about 2 ft. Wrap a soup can around the end (curl it) and insert in the copper pipe and then curl the other side-same way. Be sure to add a copper cap to keep the rain out of the pipe..

As far as displaying in the garden, take a rebar and insert it in the ground. Put your stake overtop of the rebar. Will help keep the stake upright.

I also make several suggestions- keep out of direct sunlight, find a protected place. Bring in if hail is predicted!

This is the first year I have made them, so am not sure how they will hold up. I suggest they study the spot they want to put the flower stake in and when it turns cold, bring them in for the winter.

Does that help?

Becky


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clipped on: 06.23.2011 at 12:49 pm    last updated on: 06.23.2011 at 12:50 pm

polymer clay tiles for mosaics

posted by: nicethyme on 05.27.2008 at 06:01 pm in Stained Glass & Mosaics Forum

seems like eons ago a GW regular Haziemoon showed her AMAZING celtic stamped PC tiles mmmmmmmmmmmmm

my mouth watered and I asked her every bit of detail on how she did that mmmmm they were beautiful! what she said was go buy Laurie Mika's book on Mixed Media Mosaics! (I wasn't in the position to do that at that time but someone here graciously sent it along to me) another wonderful person shared some things that she no longer used and boyoh did it open my world right up!

now I truely love adding stamped tiles to things I make because I can include my thoughts (inane as they maybe! LOL)

There are way better examples of PC tiles by alot of talented artists, but I'll share with ya all how I do it and you'll see how easy it is to get that look.

polymer clay is that premo, sculpy, fimo.. brands that bake in the oven. each has differing temps and times so be sure and look at the package.

I usually just roll out a bigger piece, stamp then trim but because had to fit as a replacement I cut it to size before stamping.
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Now its stamped with the correctly spelled word and you can see there is a bottle of black acrylic paint and a baggy of gold mica dust.
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now I painted the clay and then wipe it off so that it remains in the grooves of the stamped letters.

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then I dip my finger into the mica and rubb it on the tile

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now bake in a covered dedicated pan (only for clay) seal it with 2 coats of Future floor polish. Mask with tape before grouting

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clipped on: 06.19.2011 at 02:25 pm    last updated on: 06.19.2011 at 02:25 pm

RE: Garden sculpture info (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: slowmedown on 06.29.2009 at 08:43 am in Stained Glass & Mosaics Forum

Good morning, PHANTOM, and welcome to the forum. You're in for lots of fun. Some of us have taken the mesh/concrete workshop from Wouterina deRaad. She taught us to use the diamond lathe mesh - found at Lowes/Home Depot. The important thing about her method is the double layers. You make your sculpture, then you put a second layer over it all. This is "stitched" together w/19-guage wire - no need for welding. Just make sure your "stitches" are hidden as well as possible. Lineman pliers pull the stitches through your structure. Make a stitch about six inches long w/a hook at one end for pushing through, then back through and twisting a couple times and clip off as close to your structure as possible. I use 17-guage wire from the fencing section at Lowes - comes on a huge roll and is easy to use. Then she taught us to make the concrete mixture from three parts sand to one part Portland cement. Cement is what holds concrete together. She also taught us we can use the ready-to-use mortar mix. That's what I prefer. It's so much easier to work with, cuz the Portland comes in bags of 93 lbs. When your sculpture is complete, mix the mortar, and w/gloved hand push the mortar between the two layers and smooth it as best you can. This is what makes her sculptures so lightweight and portable. It's just a thin layer of concrete. If you look at my thread "Fountain Surround" - first part, you w/see my mesh structure. I used rebar to help the structure stand. Any more questions, please ask, and show us your WIPs. We love new members.


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clipped on: 06.18.2011 at 11:44 pm    last updated on: 06.18.2011 at 11:44 pm

RE: First post - stained glass table top (Follow-Up #13)

posted by: barrell on 01.30.2009 at 06:54 pm in Stained Glass & Mosaics Forum

I have made many tables with stained glass. I do all the woodworking and strongly beleive a table should be built to last a lifetime. So I dont use any Salvation army deals that are coming apart at the seams. I use 3/4 inch plywood on the bottom and then laminate 1/2 tile backer board to the plywood. It is this concrete board that gets the glass. I use a variety of glues but my favorites are welbond and GOOP. I avoid silicone two because I cant handle the fumes. After the mosaic is grouted I give it a couple days and then ALWAYS cover the whole top with epoxy tabeletop/bar resin. This resin is epoxy based and smooths out the surface so drinks wont tip over. Its is almost impossible to scratch and looks so good that I eeven cover half my wall panels with it. Here is a link where I described in detail the process I use to bury the glass under the resin.
http://stainedglassville.com/glassforum/index.php?topic=3614.0


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clipped on: 06.18.2011 at 04:54 pm    last updated on: 06.18.2011 at 04:54 pm

RE: 16' Sphere (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: sereneseen on 05.11.2009 at 10:45 pm in Stained Glass & Mosaics Forum

Thanks for all your ideas and encouragement. I am busy this week writing grants so I don't get to play and work on my ball until this weekend.....wahaaaaa.

Calamity, Cathy, and anyone else interested in making a hollow cement ball, here is the directions: I made the hollow cement ball from a 16" dodge ball. Here is a link to a little pictorial of sorts of the process: http://s7.photobucket.com/albums/y297/SereneSeen/16%20inch%20Sphere/

Other supplies needed are acrylic resistant scrim, QUIKWALL Surface Bonding Cement (available at Menards), small container to mix cement, and a wide paint brush. Cut up scrim in 4" squares. Before you start, make sure the ball is completely inflated.

Mix cement with a little water so mixture is a peanut butter consistency. Smear a thin layer of cement on ball and place scrim square on cement. Continue smearing cement on ball and laying scrim so that the scrim over laps each other by at least of half an inch. Use paint brush to smooth out cement mixture over the scrim. You have to work a quarter of the ball at a time letting it dry before moving on to the next quarter or everything slides off the ball. Leave a 6" diameter hole open at one end of the ball.

After the first layer is dry, add a second thin layer of scrim and QuikWall. After this dry, deflate ball and remove. Cover hole with quickwall and scrim. To smooth out ball further, if needed, mix another batch of quickwall and use paint brush to paint over ball.

I am thinking about making a giant cement ball out of one of those large exercise balls. That would be really cool!

Hope this helps.


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clipped on: 06.18.2011 at 04:35 pm    last updated on: 06.18.2011 at 04:36 pm