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RE: How much do frameless glass shower doors cost? (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: staceyneil on 03.10.2010 at 08:06 am in Bathrooms Forum

Depends on whether you are talking about an installed price or DIY install.

We bought ours on line, from a company that sells on eBay. Their standard 28" wide door plus side panel (any width) is I believe $650. Ours was more complicated since it was a neo-angle with beveled edge and we upgraded our hardware, and it was about $1000 shipped, I think. We DIY-ed the install. With the neo-angle, that was difficult. A straight design would be a lot easier.


neo angle shower
clipped on: 01.01.2015 at 08:05 am    last updated on: 01.01.2015 at 08:05 am

RE: Light gray grout recommendations (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: linelle on 06.07.2014 at 12:41 am in Bathrooms Forum

For all the indecision, I'm happy with how the grout turned out. Zephyr approves.



smokegrey grout
clipped on: 11.19.2014 at 11:48 am    last updated on: 11.19.2014 at 11:48 am

RE: Does dark grout ruin the luminosity of glass tile? (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: ck_squared on 10.06.2014 at 06:26 pm in Kitchens Forum

We matched the grout to our glass tiles as closely as we could. I didn't want them to stand out. We have walnut cabs and I didn't think white would have worked in our kitchen. I wouldn't exactly call them "deadened" but it does make the backsplash more subtle and lets the quartzite be the star.

p.s. our bs is about the same color as your tile.


clipped on: 11.15.2014 at 11:07 am    last updated on: 11.15.2014 at 11:08 am

Does dark grout ruin the luminosity of glass tile?

posted by: Swentastic on 10.06.2014 at 05:16 pm in Kitchens Forum

I've been debating grout colors for our backsplash, and have been thinking about doing a gray-green putty color for ours, very similar to the color of the tile. Before I go out and buy several bags of grout and do a test board, I was hoping GW could give me some guidance. I really don't want white grout that I'd have to seal all the time.

 photo 9A377D4F-4698-4881-BA71-C977D10FCB8A.jpg

Every glass tile pic on the internet seems to have white grout, which make the tiles look pretty and luminous. I can't find any gray examples where the grout matches the tile.

Do you have dark grout? Does it kill the luminosity of the glass tile?


clipped on: 11.15.2014 at 11:06 am    last updated on: 11.15.2014 at 11:06 am

RE: Porcelain "Carrara marble" look-alike tile? (Follow-Up #23)

posted by: pinkpaula on 04.06.2014 at 07:25 pm in Bathrooms Forum

I also used Mirasol Bianco Carrara tile in my bathroom.
12x12 matte on bathroom floor
10x14 glossy on shower walls
2x4 matte mosaic on shower floor


clipped on: 05.20.2014 at 09:29 am    last updated on: 11.15.2014 at 10:54 am

RE: Best source for inexpensive subway tile? (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: tinker1121 on 08.07.2014 at 05:47 am in Kitchens Forum

When I was shopping for tile I came across tile by Adex USA which is very reasonably priced. Their Neri series has a good selection of sizes in flat or beveled white subway tiles. IMHO it is nicer than the stock HD and Lowes tile which I found to be pitted and not that great of quality. has good pricing on all tile, carries Adex USA for about $6 sf and you can get samples but have to pay for them. I think you get three for $10 but worth it before ordering. I have posted the link to the Adex tile with all the sizes available. Good luck!

Here is a link that might be useful: Adex USA Neri series


clipped on: 11.15.2014 at 10:52 am    last updated on: 11.15.2014 at 10:52 am

RE: Hard time keeping Stainless steel Appliances clean? (Follow-Up #14)

posted by: infodivamary3 on 03.02.2006 at 10:59 pm in Cleaning Tips Forum

The problem I have with SS Magic and all the other cleaners specifically for SS is that they contain some sort of oil that might repel fingerprints, but applying them requires so much rubbing to make the surface streak free.

I finally switched to SprayWay glass cleaner--no ammonia, no bad smell--and it works perfectly with no streaking and no residue. It's $5.00 a can at Restoration Hardware, but my Sam's Club has it for much less.

SprayWay is great, professional stuff. I discovered it when the guy who installed my shower door used it to clean the glass. He said that glass shops swear by it, and I've found that it has lots of uses in my kitchen, too.


clipped on: 11.13.2014 at 03:07 pm    last updated on: 11.13.2014 at 03:07 pm

RE: Finished Bathroom Reveal Thread (Follow-Up #41)

posted by: sochi on 03.25.2013 at 12:40 am in Bathrooms Forum

Gorgeous bathrooms everyone, what a wonderful thread. Here is my small interior master bathroom. Renovation was completed about 10 months ago.

Floor tiles: Cement Nickel by Antica
Wall tiles: Yakarta Blanco from Porcelanosa
Shower heads: Hansgrohe
Toilet: Toto (we reused the existing toilet)
Sink: Kohler
Faucet: Cifial
Vanity: live edge walnut
Sconces: Sonneman Teardrop
Shower Threshold: Caesarstone Raven
Wood floor in shower: Ipe decking






clipped on: 11.02.2014 at 03:08 pm    last updated on: 11.02.2014 at 03:08 pm

Hall bath reveal

posted by: linelle on 07.17.2014 at 02:23 pm in Bathrooms Forum

Apologies in advance for the length of this 5x10 hall (guest) bath reveal narrative.

It's located right at the T-junction of my hall that leads to the bedrooms and garage, so it's a hub point and very visible. I typically don't close bathroom doors when not in use and, since I live alone, I never, ever close the bathroom door unless someone's over. Meaning this is a room I see all the time.

Other than the Before tile floor, towel bar, and surface mounted medicine cabinet, everything was original to when the house was built in 1991. When my DH was alive, he used the small en suite master bath and this was my bathroom. It's immediately adjacent to the bedroom door so it was convenient. It's a much better bathroom than the en suite one. After my DH died, I decided it would be too impractical and a waste of space for me to not use his old bathroom, so I moved into it and made a few cosmetic changes.

The hall bath has the only tub in the house, which I wanted to keep. However, the old tub was so uncomfortable (straight back, no scooting down into the water) that I maybe took one bath a year. I thought about replacing the tub and could see that would require new tile and everything snowballed from there.

No structural, plumbing or electrical changes. It was basically replace in kind, just a different kind. :)

I ordered some things through my KD/BD and bought other things myself. She recommended a contractor, one of three I interviewed. His estimate was the highest, but most complete and straightforward. He was a gem. Every single person who worked in my bathroom was fantastic. I would hire this guy again in a heartbeat.

The only real glitch was a squeak/bounce under the row of floor tile next to the tub. It had to be redone twice before the problem was fixed, along with some additional cross bracing from below between the floor joists.

Tub - Duravit acrylic
Sink - Kohler Archer
Faucet - Grohe Arden
Tub spout, shower valve trim - Grohe Arden
Hand spray - Grohe New Tempesta Cosmopolitan
Vanity - Columbia, alder, coffee stain
Counter - Honed carrara
Med. cab - Kohler
Light - Hinkley Avon
Floor tile - Happy Floor Eternity Gray
Shower tile - Daltile Arctic White
Toilet - Toto Drake 1.2 gpf (round, regular height)
Knobs - House of Antique Hardware Hex. glass
Towel bar/ring/TP holder - Pottery Barn Hayden
Curtain rod - Moen
Shower curtain - BB&B $20 special
Mirror - Crate & Barrel Silver Birch, refinished by me with Liquid Leaf
Walls - SW Antique White
Trim - Kelly Moore Swiss Coffee

Chrome finishes, except brushed nickel floor register and existing door handle.


Bath Before long shot
Bath Before sink


Bath long shot

Bath vanity

Bath vanity wall

photo 3

Bath faucet

Bath curved rod

So much agonizing
photo 2-1

I fretted needlessly about being too matchy with all the chrome. As it turns out, I neither notice nor care. Had to go with a brushed nickel floor register, so there's that.

The framed mirror. Despite being called "SILVER Birch" and a salesman's assurance that the finish was quite silver, it had a gold tone about it. It was lovely, but I didn't want gold. I refinished it with liquid leaf after a disastrous Rub 'n' Buff episode. I was ready to chuck the entire mirror. I was very angry with myself. The mirror doesn't photograph well, but it's now acceptable to me. Next time I would do a very large, unframed, beveled mirror. Framed mirrors are not all they're cracked up to be. :)

After getting a white kitchen I was very sure I wanted a stained vanity. I wanted a mid-toned stain, but when all was said and done, it came out much darker than I'd envisioned. It's okay, but the lesson learned is to take as much time with stain color as every other element. I'm in love with all the space I have with the drawers and increased height of the vanity.

I love my Avon light. It takes up to 100 watts per light (there are 5), but I discovered that 40-watt vanity (boob) lights provide a perfect amount. I have since stocked up with 10 more bulbs before California outlaws all the incandescents.

The floor's okay, preferred something darker and more uniform in color, but it's growing on me.

I ordered the 1.6 gpf Drake but received the 1.28 because California insisted on it. I was not happy about it, as I hadn't gotten Sani-Gloss. I discovered the secret long flush, so it's all okay.

The mother lion and her baby poster was in another room and got pressed into service because the old artwork was too ratty looking. The lions have a bit of history and I'm not a big fan of putting things on the wall I'm not somehow attached to. I printed and framed an iPhone closeup of Bessie for over the toilet.


clipped on: 10.31.2014 at 11:50 am    last updated on: 10.31.2014 at 11:50 am

RE: Help finding 60' alcove tub with long/wide basin!! (Follow-Up #26)

posted by: lee676 on 01.17.2013 at 08:03 pm in Bathrooms Forum

I'm liking the Maax Rubix - another squared-off tub with max showering space like the Mirabelle Edenton mentioned in several threads here, and cheaper to boot (under $600 for some). Three sizes available - 60x30, 60x32, and 66x32, and they're a shorter 18" tall (a few inches taller for the available above-ground rough-in models). The 66x32 I'm looking at is a full 24-1/2" wide inside on average (see specs here).

Here is a link that might be useful: Maax Rubix 6032 at Homeclick


Love the tub
clipped on: 10.29.2014 at 02:37 pm    last updated on: 10.29.2014 at 02:38 pm

RE: Help, Tiling in process and I hate the layout. (Follow-Up #24)

posted by: mom6 on 09.20.2013 at 09:52 pm in Bathrooms Forum

I am sort of surprised by the comments. Jacqueline5 I was thinking the same way you were. I hired an expert. It is his job not mine to get the layout right. My clients don't hire me and tell me how to do my job. If I had wanted 15" tiles across the main wall, I wouldn't have spent the $$$ on the large format tiles. On Monday the boss came and we had a long talk and they took down the cut tiles and we worked out a new layout. I am attaching the picture now since it was grouted today and all the machinery was finally removed. It looks so much better.


6x84 jambs panna white threshold
clipped on: 06.04.2014 at 12:57 pm    last updated on: 06.04.2014 at 12:57 pm

Tiling pony wall - ??

posted by: nancy486 on 12.04.2013 at 01:05 pm in Bathrooms Forum

The tile setter configured a tile pattern on pony wall of shower. That pattern does not conform to the clean simple design I desired & what I'd expected based on pics on design websites (Houzz, etc). Pics from those websites show uninterrupted horizontal tile courses/grout lines from inside shower wall, across narrow front of pony wall, and around to outside of pony wall. After a couple sleepless nights trying to convince myself that this unconventional design would grow on me, I advised contractor that this chopped up vertical pattern was not acceptable & needed to be fixed. I think he plans to put 3x6 bullnose tiles, still in a vertical pattern, which will still break the horizontal continuum & leave an unbroken vertical line up the middle of the wall. IS THERE ABY WAY TO FIX THIS? is there a way to get the look wanted & what seems to be std in the industry, ie continuation of horizontal pattern across front of pony wall? Same pattern was used on shower ledge & top of wall. Any ideas on how to fix that?


Great Conversation About Tiling Pony wall
clipped on: 06.04.2014 at 12:41 pm    last updated on: 06.04.2014 at 12:41 pm

RE: Help with tight master bath: 18 inch or 22 inch depth vanity? (Follow-Up #22)

posted by: verver on 05.27.2014 at 09:58 pm in Bathrooms Forum

Well, here's the update:
finally went with the Strasser 18 inch vanity.
we found sinks that fit without too much difficulty (nantucket undermount 16x11" interior dimension), and which we thought was plenty of room.
Our stone guy didn't have a problem with the cutting and faucet placement for the vanity top.
didn't have to offset the faucet placement or anything.
overall, it worked out well. and we are very happy for the extra room between the vanity and shower...think the usual 22" would be tight.
thanks to everyone for the input. and like those that have 18" vanities have said, it's plenty big, enough room, sinks are fine, etc. if you are short on space, definitely consider 18" depth vanity.


clipped on: 05.30.2014 at 06:40 am    last updated on: 05.30.2014 at 06:40 am

RE: Panasonic whisper fan (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: jacobse on 08.30.2010 at 01:14 am in Bathrooms Forum

Karena, Panasonic mades a boatload of different models of fans. Why would this decision be easier than anything else in remodeling? ;)

Here's a link to Panasonic's web site showing the different models. There are ones with and without heater, with and without night lights, with and without motion sensors, and with different power fans for different sizes rooms.

You want to get the proper power fan -- measured in CFM, or cubic feet per minute of air they move -- for your bathroom. An 80 CFM unit is for a small bathroom up to about 80 square feet; a 110 CFM unit is slightly more powerful for a slightly larger room (or one with a ceiling higher than 8'). For a larger bathroom (over 120 square feet), you'll probably want a larger model. Here's a link to a room size-to-CFM calculator.

Depending which fan you select you may need two up to four switches. A basic fan and light requires two, although they could be combined. A heater is a separate switch, as is a nightlight. (You can buy switches which combine two switches in the space of one normal switch, so you only need a single or double-gang box on your wall, instead of a triple or quad.)

In terms of a timer for the fan, several companies make them. I've purchased ones from Lutron, which allow you to set the fan shut off after as little as 5 or as much as 60 minutes.

That's the Lutron model MA-T51. Below is the Lutron model MA-L3T251, which combines a timer on the bottom with a dimmer on top, in the space of a single switch. That's what I've used in both bathrooms to control the fan and the fan light; I'm not sure if that dimmer will work with the Panasonic if you choose a model which has a compact fluorescent light in it.

I was planning to get one of the Panasonic units because I read they were very quiet, but I didn't like the non-dimmable fluorescent light or the size of the unit in the ceiling. Others here suggested Fantech, which uses a much smaller, flat grill in the ceiling and puts the fan in the attic.
That's what we went with, and I'm happy with it.

I know, I know... you're thinking this is just one more thing which seemed simple until you looked into it! ;)

-- Eric


Dimmable Switch and timer
clipped on: 05.29.2014 at 03:12 pm    last updated on: 05.29.2014 at 03:13 pm

RE: Finished Bathroom Reveal Thread (Follow-Up #29)

posted by: phylhl on 03.22.2013 at 12:59 pm in Bathrooms Forum

Master bath:
Tiles - Mirage slate gray (floor), Imola creme field tile, Jerusalem heights marble mosaic accent
Fixtures - Rohl and Hans Grohe in polished nickel
Toto Guenivere toilet
Dover Woods vanity/towers in Beluga stain
LIghts - Crystorama chandelier, Hudson Valley Rockland sconces
Thermasol steam unit and controls
Granite - Ivory Supreme


This vanity is about 83" long (the towers are 15" each). The center part is about 52" (there are fillers here and there). The sinks are super small - Porcer Marquee Petit Oval - 14 1/2 x 9 1/2 inside dimensions (hence the need to purchase a shorter spout)


This post was edited by phylhl on Sat, Mar 23, 13 at 21:06


dark shower floor
clipped on: 05.27.2014 at 04:26 pm    last updated on: 05.27.2014 at 04:26 pm

RE: Porcelain "Carrara marble" look-alike tile? (Follow-Up #21)

posted by: badgergal on 03.14.2014 at 04:34 pm in Bathrooms Forum

My daughter is using a porcelain "Carrara look" tile in her bath. She chose Daltile's Florentine Carrara. She is using 12x24 on the walls and 24x24 on the floors. The tile comes in other sizes with shiny or matte finishes. Her bathroom is only 76"x 65 plus the 36x60 tub alcove.
Here is an in-progress picture without grout yet


Love the stacked tile
clipped on: 05.24.2014 at 04:41 am    last updated on: 05.24.2014 at 04:42 am

RE: Mongoct, treasuretheday , Sofla, enduring , raehelen.... (Follow-Up #27)

posted by: lillo on 05.06.2013 at 11:07 pm in Bathrooms Forum

No I haven't checked that. The problem is that the tile stores that I checked ( 5 or 6 ) didn't have any selection of white tiles on the floor except the subway or plain white tiles . They didn't even suggest anything from a catalogue . I only checked one porcelinosa tile that I saw in one of the finished bathrooms on this web . It has like small printed squares on it . They were supposed to get me a sample , but nobody contacted me until now. I did order today the one on the right that has ridges . I'll lay it subway style till mid shower , glass border and then I'll lay the top soldier style . I was thinking to use silver grey grout or should I go with white ?oh , this will be for the shower . I am going tomorrow to get the white calacata marble tile for the floor . What kind of sealant did you use for your floor ? How may layers? I hear people do 2 or 3 .


Textured white tile
clipped on: 05.24.2014 at 04:35 am    last updated on: 05.24.2014 at 04:36 am

RE: Finished! Transitional white marble bathroom (Follow-Up #11)

posted by: pipdog on 08.22.2012 at 10:35 pm in Bathrooms Forum

thanks, everybody! I also forgot to give thanks to the collective wisdom on this site. I learned a lot by looking at inspiration photos, reading people's experience with marble, and finding information on fixtures and finishes. This is such a great forum!

kcmg, thanks for the nice words. I'm definitely a proponent of quartz counters. I like how they bring a modern vibe to the marble and also like how they let the marble be the star. Also, they are so much easier to maintain than marble counters. Our shower is 40x34. We were hemmed in by the window on the back wall. We do have 3 scones - I just noticed the photo only shows 2, but there is one to the right of the mirror on the right. The Hansgrohe shower head was a splurge and I'm so glad we did it - I just took my first shower this week and it was worth it. :)

pharaoh, thanks for the nice words. Actually, the grout is a very, very light cool gray -- it's "White Frost" from C-Cure. Even though I love the look of white grout with marble, with two kids and a big dog, I didn't want the hassle of cleaning white grout. This one has just the slightest hint of color, and I would recommend it for those using white marble. We tried about 5 different grout colors, including Silver Shadow which we used in another marble bathroom, and they were all either too dark or too beige. I nearly drove my tile installer crazy with my grout picky-ness. ;)

tartanhabit, we were very happy with our installers/contractor. It took over a week for our tile guy to install the tile, and I felt like he was taking forever, but he was meticulous and did a fantastic job. If any Angelenos need a recommendation for a good tile guy, I'm happy to refer him.


White frost c cure for marble
clipped on: 05.24.2014 at 03:58 am    last updated on: 05.24.2014 at 03:58 am

RE: What is the rationale for grey grout with white subway tile? (Follow-Up #13)

posted by: sombreuil_mongrel on 06.26.2008 at 08:19 pm in Kitchens Forum

This is a light gray; Delorean Gray to be exact.
It just highlights the lines a bit. I never considered white.
Shower valve



Rules at top going up
clipped on: 05.23.2014 at 09:14 pm    last updated on: 05.23.2014 at 09:14 pm

RE: What is the rationale for grey grout with white subway tile? (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: mary_in_nc on 06.25.2008 at 11:45 am in Kitchens Forum

I have Subway Ceramics white tile. I went with the lightest grey grout my tile guy had and spaced them 1/16th apart. Turned out beautiful. We chose light grey for a couple of reasons. First, we wanted the tile pattern to be emphasized. Second, it wouldn't show dirt like white or linen would. Didn't go with a darker grey grout because we wanted the tile to stand out, not the grout line.



Delores Grey 1/16 grout line
clipped on: 05.23.2014 at 09:13 pm    last updated on: 05.23.2014 at 09:13 pm

(Almost) final reveal

posted by: IliN on 11.18.2013 at 05:52 pm in Kitchens Forum

We still have a few things to do but I have had a few people ask to see my Shiloh beaded inset cabinets with Misty Carrera Caesarstone, so here are a few photos! I still need to decorate the room, I need runners, a rug for under the table, new counter stools and pictures on the walls.

Here are some befores:
(We took down a wall where the laundry/mudroom was to make the kitchen bigger)

 photo oldkitchen1.jpeg

 photo oldkitchen.jpg

 photo oldkitchen2.jpeg

 photo oldkitchen.jpeg

 photo zDSC_4491.jpg

 photo zDSC_4495.jpg

 photo zDSC_4493.jpg

 photo zDSC_4519.jpg

 photo zDSC_4503.jpg

 photo zDSC_4502.jpg

 photo zDSC_4504.jpg

 photo zDSC_4515.jpg

 photo zDSC_4511.jpg

 photo zDSC_4530.jpg

 photo zDSC_4528.jpg

 photo zDSC_4537.jpg

Pantry pocket door
 photo zDSC_4499.jpg

Pantry inside (excuse the mess)
 photo zDSC_4524.jpg

 photo zDSC_4523.jpg

 photo zDSC_4506.jpg

Some detail shots...

 photo zDSC_4542.jpg

 photo zDSC_4540.jpg

 photo zDSC_4492.jpg

Oh and here are the befores! We took down the wall and moved the laundry upstairs, the island was 2 ft before and now it's almost 8.

 photo kitchenbefore.png

 photo beforebreakfast.png

ETA info:

Cabinets: Shiloh Arctic white beaded inset, door style Aspen

Countertops: Caesarstone Misty Carrera

Hardware: Restoration Hardware Gilmore pulls and Aubrey knobs

Tile: Florida tile Berkshire, 6x24 in Hickory

Backsplash: Suprema gloss brick, color touch of gray porcelain hand painted tile

Wall color: Benjamin Moore Stonington Gray

Pendants: Pottery Barn brushed nickel pendant (these were a steal!! Under 80$ each as opposed to the benson pendant at RH which is closer to 300$ each)

Faucet: Hansgrohe high arc pull down spray in stainless steel

Fridge: Subzero

Induction Cooktop: GE 5 burner profile

All other appliances are whirlpool

Pantry shelves and cart all ikea which totalled under $120!! I love that they are open and I can see everything.

This post was edited by IliN on Tue, Dec 3, 13 at 13:54


clipped on: 12.12.2013 at 05:49 am    last updated on: 12.12.2013 at 05:50 am

RE: Kitchen floor 1in black hex tile or herringbone 1.75in hardwo (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: marcolo on 03.26.2010 at 05:20 pm in Kitchens Forum

Couple of things.

First, an all-black floor can be very cool, but I'm not sure it's terribly Victorian. To me, it has a slightly industrial, maybe Art Deco edge. It also seems a wee bit bathroomy, and yes, will show every speck of dust. The blog Door Sixteen showcased an all-black bathroom floor, but in penny tile rather than hex.

It is neat, but also gives the impression of a big black hole. It will also suck up light like a sponge.

You can get inspiration from photos like these:

at American Restoration Tile

Also, if you want wooden herringbone, but are worried about the wear, have you considered faux wood porcelain? It's gorgeous.


Herringbone floor
clipped on: 12.10.2013 at 02:37 pm    last updated on: 12.10.2013 at 02:37 pm

RE: Our Kitchen Remodel Journey (Follow-Up #71)

posted by: gpraceman on 08.02.2013 at 12:53 pm in Kitchens Forum

The slab yard called late yesterday, saying that they had gotten in a small shipment of our granite. We rushed right over there but arrived 15 minutes after they closed. One of the staff was so kind to take us back to see the bundles anyways. We immediately saw a bundle that we liked and put a hold on one of the slabs. Hopefully, our fabricator will expedite things now that we got our slab. We hope to be all finished by next week.

I've done a couple of other tweaks to our kitchen while we've been waiting for granite. One is adding a towel holder under the sink. It is from Rev-a-Shelf and was less than $4.

Towel Holder photo IMAG0085_zpsb643beac.jpg

The other was a pullout for our baking sheets. DW was not as excited about this change, as she loses a bit of storage space in that cabinet, but it makes it easier to access things. This is also from Rev-a-Shelf and wasn't difficult to install. I actually bought it from Amazon, as it was less expensive than through Rev-a-Shelf.

Pullout for Baking Sheets photo IMAG0084_zps18521715.jpg


clipped on: 12.02.2013 at 01:17 pm    last updated on: 12.02.2013 at 01:17 pm

RE: Ikea butcher block countertops (Follow-Up #21)

posted by: hestia_flames on 06.01.2009 at 07:31 pm in Kitchens Forum

We cut ours ourselves. Read over at IkeaFans for more tips, but here are some:

Tools: Thick straight edge (to run circular saw against) and clamps to clamp it to your butcher block.
Pieces of small wood to protect your top while clamping
2x4's (4 to raise the block above the surface while fully supporting it on either side of the saw blade.)
Plug in circular saw (a battery powered one will not have the power you need.)
New blade
Jig saw with new blade
We used a hole cutting blade on our drill for the inside curve.
We used a forstner bit in our drill to cut holes halfway down for the miter bolts to hold two different sections of countertop together - we also needed to borrow a router to rout the channel between those "holes" - we used wood cut, routed, glued, used the bolts, sanded, then used the Waterlox.
If you install an undermount sink, you will need to create a template out of luan plywood, and use a pattern bit in a router to rout the opening. We almost did that, but decided instead to use a counter depth sink. You can see in my post above where the counter meets the sink. We wanted fewer seams and found a great sink on Craigslist.

Last, check the butcher block while there, but don't open the plastic the wood is wrapped in until you are all set to cut and Waterlox the first coat. We cut and waited a few days on one piece, and it did warp. We had to turn it over and keep checking until it was level. A little nerve wracking. After we sealed it there was no problem.

FYI,if you want a section of counter that is food safe (to roll out dough, for example) you can melt beeswax into warmed mineral oil, then oil that separate section. You need to keep oiling, but I like having one area that is food safe.


clipped on: 11.27.2013 at 07:24 am    last updated on: 11.27.2013 at 07:24 am

RE: Wall Decal for Nursery (Follow-Up #13)

posted by: forboystoo on 10.23.2013 at 02:52 pm in Home Decorating & Design Forum

The cheapest I found the decal is attached.
The leaves,deers and birds can be arranged anyway you like(or not).
I don't know anything about this co.

Here is a link that might be useful:


clipped on: 11.07.2013 at 06:31 am    last updated on: 11.07.2013 at 06:31 am

RE: This look for it possible? Any ideas? (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: writersblock on 11.06.2013 at 02:51 pm in Home Decorating & Design Forum

If you go over to ikeafans and look for posts by johnbh, he's done a lot of built-ins using ikea cabinets, like this one:

Here is a link that might be useful: built in with ramsjo cabinets


clipped on: 11.07.2013 at 05:46 am    last updated on: 11.07.2013 at 05:46 am

Show me your pendants!!

posted by: strayer on 11.02.2013 at 02:13 pm in Kitchens Forum

Hi, I love glass and metal pendants, a bit on the modern side. I'm searching for 2 to hang over my island. Please post pics of yours! Thanks.


clipped on: 11.06.2013 at 05:06 am    last updated on: 11.06.2013 at 05:07 am

RE: Favorite bathroom vent fan to replace WhisperFit-Lite? (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: Edbishop868 on 08.01.2012 at 12:33 pm in Bathrooms Forum

I've been installing and recommending Panasonic for a number of years with very good results.

Once you choose the right size it is a good idea to install the next size up to make up for inadequate ducting.

Here is a link that might be useful: How to size a bath vent fan


clipped on: 11.03.2013 at 07:28 am    last updated on: 11.03.2013 at 07:29 am

White Kitchen Reveal (long post with photos)

posted by: lovetogarden_oak on 09.27.2013 at 04:53 am in Kitchens Forum

Dear GW-ers,

It took us about 9 months (yup!) to complete our kitchen reno. We acted as our own GC and hired the pros to do most carpentry work, all electrical, all plumbing, flooring, backsplash and countertop.

We have benefitted immensely from the extra eyes on GW looking over our layout plan before we purchased our cabinetry. We are so grateful for the detailed discussions of pretty much anything kitchen-reno related (we read all buehl's post multiple times!) We love love love the inspiring "after" photos posted by the GW community. You have been a constant resource to us.

Thank you so much to everyone who had offered ideas, inisghts, suggestions, and gentle words of encouragement during our reno! You are really awesome!

To help reduce cost, we did quite a bit of work ourselves, though in hindsight, we probably should just hire the pro to do them as it took us soooo long to finish the work as we didn't have any prior experience. With the help of DD and our carpenter, we installed a new Marvin Integrity bay window to replace the aluminum garden window in the old kitchen. We naively took the job of tapping, mudding and sanding the newly sheetrocked walls and ceiling during the Christmas holiday (it looked so easy on youtube, but it took us weeks to finish the job!) We also installed the cabinets including the crown moulding, scribes and hardware ourselves. DH did baseboard installation while I painted the window trims and the built-in china cabinet. There was definitely sweat-equity involved here.

Our carpenter built a custom pantry with IKEA Rationell pull-out drawers to replace the broom closet. It is one of my favorite features in our new kitchen!

So, without further ado, here is the list of materials, plus our before, during and after photos. I will post more detailed photos in the FKB, including the inside of our cabinets, once I figured out how to do that. :)

Cabinetry: InnerMost (from HD) - La Porte (their shaker style) in Divinity Classic finish. The KD is a superstar (we love Sherry)! She was so patient with me as I kept changing the layout for the millionth times. The InnerMost Rep is also amazing! We are very happy customers!
Pulls: Asbury in polished chrome (from Restoration Hardware)
Knobs: 1 1/4" glass knobs with polished nickel base (from RH as well)
Countertop: Calacatta Oro 2cm marble slab (it took forever to find one that we love, but we finally did!) and prefab white quartz for the china cab (don't know the name of it... We saw the remnant piece on our way out from the fabricator's warehouse.)
Backsplash: 1"x6" white Daltile subway tiles (from HD)
Sink: 28" wide Julien 025 806 J18 (to fit our 33" sink base) plus grid
Faucet: Grohe Concetto Dual Spray Pull Down 32665 in Polished Chrome
Soap dispenser: Blanco Alta Soap / Lotion Dispenser 440046 in Polished Chrome
Garbage disposal: Whirlpool GC 5000 3/4 hp (from IKEA)
Air gap: Blanco 44036 in Polished Chrome
Air switch: Enviropure ENVAS1CH in Polished Chrome
Stove: 30" GE monogram gas stove ZGP30NRSS
Hood: 36"W, 1000cfm KOBE CH0036SQB-1 (seems to work well enough with our GE monogram stove)
Duct cover: 12" H and 36" W, KOBE CH0036DC12 308 to match the hood
Refrigerator: 36" counter-depth french door Kitchen Aid KFCP22EXMP
DW: Miele G5575SCSF
Microwave: 0.8 cu ft Panasonic NN-SD372S perfect for our family of three! (From
Flooring: site finished Santos Mahogany (2 coats of Traffic Satin, and 1 coat Traffic semi gloss which darkened the *eek!* pinkish floor to a beautiful reddish brown we now love.)
Lighting: canned LED lights on dimmer for ceiling, and puck LED light for under cabinet lighting, IKEA's Inreda LED lights (great value!), and RH school house light with oil rubbed bronze finish for the nook
Wall color: a custom color, somewhere between BM Wickham Gray and Grey Cashmere.
Trim color: BM match of HD Behr Pot Of Cream.

The before:

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The built-in china cabinet before it was painted and had its formica countertop replaced with prefab quartz
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The during:
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The after:
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A special shout out to palimpsest for his input on the fridge placement (thank you!):
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The custom pantry with IKEA pull-out drawers:
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Appliance garage:
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Gas shut-off hidden in toe-kick area:
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DH did such a beautiful job with the scribing (especially since he has never done any finishing carpentry before!)
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GW-inspired details...

Grid in sink:
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Under sink trash-system with IKEA pull-out drawer:
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Oil/Vinegar pull-out rack:
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Spice drawer:
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That's all I can think of for now.

Thank you so much, GW-ers! We LOVE our new kitchen!

This post was edited by lovetogarden_oak on Sun, Sep 29, 13 at 0:53


clipped on: 11.02.2013 at 10:16 am    last updated on: 11.02.2013 at 10:17 am

Poof! Marble etches gone! (pics)

posted by: niffy on 09.05.2010 at 12:17 pm in Kitchens Forum

I have mentioned before that with our honed marble, I am able to remove etches with a green Scotchbrite pad (the plain, thin pad, not the back side of a sponge). Last night my daughter got lemonade on the marble and it etched, so I decided it was an opportunity for a "demo." Hopefully this will be helpful to people (like me!) who hesitate about marble due to the etching issues. The general consensus seems to be that the sealers prevent stainining (ours does) but that etching remains an issue that you have to be able to live with. I don't live with them - I remove them. Voila!

Below you should be able to spot 2 circular etches, with the second one being far fainter, just above the first.

I used a little spray of granite cleaner and my green Scotchbrite pad and... gone.

Marble etch removal.jpg

I am a 100% happy marble owner:)


clipped on: 11.01.2013 at 06:26 am    last updated on: 11.01.2013 at 06:26 am

RE: Seamless Shower Drain? California Faucet Styledrain Tile (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: Babka on 06.26.2013 at 08:20 pm in Bathrooms Forum

No tub, just a shower. It is 12x24 porcelain. The shower floor is 2x2" porcelain, and the main floor is 24x24 porcelain, and the 5/8"mosaic is marble/glass. The 12"x48" bench and the vanity counter top is Ceasarstone quartz.

I like the combination of white, black and gray because I can change the color of my towels on a whim. ;-)


 photo IMG_3388_zpsfd30ebe2.jpg
 photo Vanity_zps0fba49c5.jpg


clipped on: 10.31.2013 at 03:28 pm    last updated on: 10.31.2013 at 03:28 pm

RE: Anyone have a marble threshold? (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: lillo on 05.17.2013 at 06:04 pm in Bathrooms Forum

I just bought one from lowes today in white marble for $ 10 . It matches perfectly my white calacata marble that I just installed in my bathroom .
My tile man will just cut it to fit and install it there.


clipped on: 10.31.2013 at 06:55 am    last updated on: 10.31.2013 at 06:55 am

RE: finally...our completed masterbath! many pics (Follow-Up #16)

posted by: treasuretheday on 05.16.2012 at 01:58 pm in Bathrooms Forum

Art_teacher_mom... The ceiling medallion was actually $40. Here's a link to the site...

Here is a link that might be useful: Ceiling medallion source


ceiling medallion
clipped on: 10.30.2013 at 01:16 pm    last updated on: 10.30.2013 at 01:16 pm

RE: Kitchen Faucet Dilemma (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: williamsem on 10.28.2013 at 11:39 pm in Kitchens Forum

My Kohler Simplice has a 9 in reach. It's very popular here and I love it! Plus it can have the handle mounted in front, which is fantastic.


clipped on: 10.30.2013 at 06:10 am    last updated on: 10.30.2013 at 06:11 am

RE: Install shower receptor with two sides open (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: kmcg on 12.06.2012 at 03:32 pm in Bathrooms Forum

crl - Here's a picture of my Kohler pan with a half wall installed on the left side. I guess you could just envision that as a really, really, short wall for your installation.


Shampoo niche
clipped on: 10.26.2013 at 08:16 am    last updated on: 10.26.2013 at 08:17 am

RE: painting honey oak cabinets (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: kirkhall on 08.24.2013 at 02:17 pm in Remodeling Forum

BM Advance paint is also said to hold up exceptionally (and get nice and hard).
Here is a blog I read just this AM with it...
You can find the original blog posts of each step, from this summary blog post.

Here is a link that might be useful: how to paint cabs


Cabinet painting
clipped on: 10.25.2013 at 05:58 am    last updated on: 10.25.2013 at 05:59 am

Cabinet Door Manufacturers ? Barker, Scherr, cabinetnow, others ?

posted by: angela12345 on 09.30.2013 at 02:25 pm in Kitchens Forum

Who are the different manufacturers you can order just cabinet doors from ? (either custom sizes or standard sizes). What do you know about them, what have you heard ? I know many go this route when they do Ikea cabinets and then put different doors on them (not Ikea).

Some I have found so far are, Barker, Scherr. Also, if you have ordered from them, please share your experiences.


clipped on: 10.21.2013 at 10:41 pm    last updated on: 10.21.2013 at 10:41 pm

RE: Where do you put sponge or dishcloth? (Follow-Up #19)

posted by: angela12345 on 10.21.2013 at 04:44 pm in Kitchens Forum

We keep ours in a sponge frog. Lke this one, but ours is white. Used to have one a bazillion years ago but it got broken. Then I found the white one in Walmart about 5 years ago or more.


clipped on: 10.21.2013 at 09:50 pm    last updated on: 10.21.2013 at 09:50 pm

RE: Where do you put sponge or dishcloth? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: magsnj on 10.20.2013 at 09:12 pm in Kitchens Forum

I have a flip out drawer(?) under my sink like this one:

If I didn't, and I had a stainless sink I'd probably get one of those suction cup sponge holders and put it on the side of the sink?


clipped on: 10.21.2013 at 09:46 pm    last updated on: 10.21.2013 at 09:47 pm

RE: So confused on shower systems (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: mongoct on 03.18.2012 at 11:54 am in Bathrooms Forum

Yes, if you like the Hansgrohe that you originally chose, you can use that valve and that trim kit, but you'll have to modify the valve a bit when you install it.

"Out of the box" the iBox valve is only an A OR B diverter. It can't send water to BOTH heads simultaneously. When you install the valve, you'll need to remove a small rotation limiting clip (I don't recall the exact name of the clip) on the valve that limits the rotation of the diverter valve. With that clip removed you can fully rotate the diverter valve to an AB position and water will flow out of both heads simultaneously. They probably have instructions for that in the installation manual.

So to make things easy, yes, you can stick with the 3/4" iBox, just remove that diverter limiting clip when the valve is installed.

For your other baths, if you want to stick with Hansgrohe, their pressure balanced valves are around $75 and the trim kits for those valves are another $125-$500 for a valve trim kit and a coordinating shower head and tub spigot.

If you're looking for economy, I usually recommend the Symmons Temptrol pressure-balanced valve. They aren't the prettiest ones out there, but you can buy a complete setup (the rough valve body PLUS trim kit PLUS a shower head and tub spigot) for about $90-$100 total. The valves are excellent, they have been around forever, and they are well supported. The few times I've needed a replacement part Symmons sends them out for free.

A lot of folk will install the Symmons set, then later maybe spend a few dollars and replace the shower head that came with the Symmons kit with one they like better.


clipped on: 10.12.2013 at 04:55 pm    last updated on: 10.12.2013 at 04:56 pm

RE: FAQ/Answers Bathroom Plumbing for dummies (Follow-Up #10)

posted by: mongoct on 06.26.2008 at 12:51 pm in Bathrooms Forum

How to get the water out of your walls:
A fixed shower head high on the wall, an adjustable hand held, an overhead rain shower head, or body sprays? Or all of them?

Normally 1/2" copper tubing is run from the valve or diverter body to carry the water to the location of the outlet. If you're going to install something permanently, or if you're going to make a connection in a sealed wall, then it�s normally a soldered fitting.

For things like showerhead arms, or body sprays, these are normally threaded connections. A threaded connection allows you to change out the shower head and arm for a different one if the old breaks, or for a new style if remodeling. When making up a threaded connection, you'll want to use something on the thread, either teflon tape, teflon pipe dope, or some other sort of thread sealer that will allow you to break the connection at a later date.

A common way to connect your outlet to your spray head is to run your copper tubing to the location of the outlet, then solder a 90 degree drop ear fitting to the copper tubing.

You can see that the fitting has a smooth inlet for the 1/2" supply tubing to be soldered to, two holes in the "ears" to nail or screw the fitting to the framing, and a threaded outlet where the water will come out of. These fittings are manufactured in different configurations for different applications.

That brass drop ear fitting will be buried in the wall or ceiling. If you are connecting a shower head, then the arm of the shower head gets screwed into the drop ear fitting and the shower head gets screwed on the other end of the arm. That works if it is a wall or ceiling mounted shower head. For a body spray, you�ll need a brass nipple like this:

One end of the nipple screws into the drop ear fitting, the other end gets screwed into your body spray. Nipples come in various lengths to compensate for varying wall thicknesses.

For a hand held shower, the outlet for the hand held is mounted just like a body spray head is mounted. I usually mount the outlet for a hand held down low near the bottom of the bar and offset to one side. That way when the head is hung on the bar, the hose hangs in a graceful "U", right up against the wall. Do a dry run with a piece of rope or string the same length as your hose, you don't want your hose laying on the shower floor.

Hand held shower are usually mounted in a vertical bar, the head can be slid up or down the bar to adjust the height of the head. If you don�t want a bar, then there are wall brackets that the hand held head can be set into. You can use multiple bracket, one high for tall people, one lower for shorter folk, even one low on the wall to hold the head for the leg shaving crowd.

Both the bar and the brackets are surface mounted in the wall, they are held on the wall with screws. You�ll normally drill a pilot hole, insert a plastic anchor into the pilot hole, then attach the bar or bracket by driving the screw into the plastic anchor. It�s easier to drill a pilot hole through grout than it is to drill through tile. Prior to inserting the anchor or driving the screw, I always squirt a glop of sealer into the hole, it helps prevent water intrusion.

As to the hose for the hand held, some are plastic, some are metal. I prefer metal as they lay against the wall more consistently than plastic hoses. One end of the hose screws on to the outlet that you screwed into the wall. The other end snaps or screws onto the hand held shower head. Get a hose long enough so that it can reach all corners of your shower, and then some. It helps with rinsing and cleaning the shower, shaving legs, bathing young kids, or even the family dog.

For wall mounted handhelds, you can get everything in one kit, or you can mix and match. Just make sure that everything is compatible so that you don't end up with a head that won't attach to a bracket.

A good combination is a "standard" wall mounted shower head, OR a "standard" head as a hand held, combined with an overhead rainshower head. "Standard" heads give that nice spray that is strong enough to easily rinse your body or rinse shampoo out of your hair, they often have multiple spray patterns as well.

Rainshower heads give a much gentler flow of water. They provide a different experience than a standard spray head. A rainshower head's flow might not be adequate to quickly rinse shampoo from hair. Some manufacturers have rainshower heads designed to mount on a standard arm that comes out of the wall. Those might not be a good idea, as the rainshower heads work best when they are mounted level, not on a tilt. If the head is mounted on an angle, instead of the shower of raindrops, you might something more like a garden hose effect coming out of one side of the head. Since the water "drops" out of the head instead of spraying our of the head, it's better to not have them too close to the wall. I think rainshower heads work best when plumbed to a central location on the ceiling.

If you can only have one head in your shower, than a standard type head with adjustable spray patterns might be your best bet. When I was a kid, most of the hand held shower heads were of very poor quality. Hose fittings leaked or sprayed water everywhere, the multiple spray heads leaked or sprayed water all over. Today's handheld's are of much better construction.

Construction note: If in a freezing climate, try to keep supply plumbing tubing out of your exterior walls. And if running plumbing for an overhead rainshower in the ceiling, if it's unheated attic space above then you'll want to insulate above the plumbing in the ceiling. Also, pitch the horizontal run of plumbing downwards a bit as the plumbing goes towards the rainshower head, so that when you turn the water off, the water in horizontal run of tubing will flow out the rainshower head instead of pooling and being captured in that horizontal run of tubing.



clipped on: 10.12.2013 at 07:52 am    last updated on: 10.12.2013 at 07:53 am

RE: Height of base of rain shower? (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: lori_inthenw on 10.07.2013 at 09:28 pm in Bathrooms Forum

So I went looking for guidelines, ended up at the NKBA site, and found they have a place to ask questions. The questions are referred to professional designers and I got a reply a couple of hours later (!) Here it is in case someone else finds this useful:

"Typically the rain shower head is located at about 84” off of the shower floor. Since the tallest person using the shower is 6’2” that height should be fine. That will allow the tallest person to stretch and reach while washing their hair without hitting the rain shower head.

If you extend the surround to the ceiling you can trap steam in the shower. A surround the height of the bottom of the rain head, 84”, should be fine."

Here is a link that might be useful: link to


Rain shower 85" off the shower floor
clipped on: 10.07.2013 at 10:53 pm    last updated on: 10.07.2013 at 10:55 pm

RE: Showerglass - Starphire / confused (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: jdougjo on 09.16.2013 at 05:47 pm in Bathrooms Forum

Maybe that are full of it buy my glass guys told me the best thing to do is to buy and apply CRL TPC (Transparent Polymer Coating) Surface Protector. Cost me about $15. Takes a little work to apply the 2 initial coats but seems to do a great job.


Diy glass coating
clipped on: 10.07.2013 at 05:05 am    last updated on: 10.07.2013 at 05:05 am

RE: 12 x 24 install question (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: jules8 on 09.13.2013 at 08:41 am in Bathrooms Forum

this is one of my other bath floors....tiny full bath.
the tiles are 9x18, positioned lenthwise from the door. and I used granite for the threshold in that one also (and the same granite on the shower curb)


Granite threshhold
clipped on: 10.07.2013 at 05:02 am    last updated on: 10.07.2013 at 05:02 am

RE: Got $7K to spend on a Medicine Cabinet? (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: mydreamhome on 05.06.2013 at 10:24 am in Bathrooms Forum

Williamsem--I definitely need to introduce you to the Scrubbing Bubbles Fresh Brush system! No need to install a $40 toilet brush holder. The SBFB starter set comes with a durable handle, a hook for the toilet tank for storage of the handle, 2 scrubby brush refills and a pack of flushable refills. The scrubbies & the flushable refills are already loaded with toilet cleaner. You simply pull back the slider button on the handle, insert the scrubby/refill and slide the button back to lock. Scrub, then release when done. Far less expensive than $40, and handle is well hidden either on the side of the toilet tank or behind it so nothing is on display. We have 1 for every bathroom and the handle fits perfectly behind the tank/toilet so you can't even see it. I'd give them a whirl before installing a toilet brush holder, no matter how pretty it is.


clipped on: 10.04.2013 at 08:36 am    last updated on: 10.04.2013 at 08:36 am

RE: What should be put on shower walls before tile? (Follow-Up #13)

posted by: billl on 04.07.2011 at 01:05 pm in Bathrooms Forum

giuseppe_paolo - the two main ways to do a shower wall are:

1) A vapor barrier tacked to the studs with cement board over that. Water and vapor can go through the grout and cement board, but should be stopped by the vapor barrier. It is probably the fastest,cheapest, and most common way to go.

2) Cement board screwed to the studs and then covered with a membrane. These can either be a sheet type membrane like Kerdi or a painted on membrane. Either way, water and vapor that go through the grout are stopped by the membrane. The process is more expensive, but the membrane is more substantial. It also allows a continuous membrane from the pan all the way up the wall.

Either way is acceptable, but #2 seems to be considered "top of the line" .

The thing you don't want to do is to do a membrane, then cement board, then another membrane. If anything fails, that creates a moisture sandwich between 2 membranes.


clipped on: 10.04.2013 at 06:21 am    last updated on: 10.04.2013 at 06:22 am

RE: Who should I believe? (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: mongoct on 11.15.2012 at 08:41 pm in Bathrooms Forum

You want 6-mil poly or tar paper behind the tile backer board with the bottom of the poly/paper lapped over the tub's flange.


Install your cement board with a topical membrane; RedGard, Hydroban, Kerdi.

You are correct. Tile, grout, cement backer board, none of them are waterproof. They are all inorganic, so water does not damage them. But water can get through the grout, through the cement board, and into your house's framing bays. Thus the need for a membrane, either behind of in front of the tile backer board.

You could split the labor. Have them install the cement backer board and thinset and mesh tape the seams and take the next day off. On their day off, you can buy a gallon of Hydroban or RedGard and "paint" it on the cement board yourself. Two coats. Easy to do. Plenty of youtube videos for reference.

Then they come back and tile.

Are you making too much out of this? No. You want a membrane.


Need hydroban
clipped on: 10.04.2013 at 04:59 am    last updated on: 10.04.2013 at 05:00 am

RE: handheld shower faucet (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: mongoct on 11.08.2012 at 04:07 pm in Bathrooms Forum

The handheld that you linked to (Hansgrohe 06364005) can be used with any shower supply valve. It appears that it comes with the wall outlet, the bar, the slide bracket, the hose, and the head itself.

You can indeed use that with any valve.

The valve body that you linked to (Delta R10000-UNBX MultiChoice Universal Tub and Shower Valve Body) has the typical hot and cold water inlets, plus an outlet to fill the tub and an outlet to supply the shower head.

The valve trim kit that you linked to has the trim for the valve, which you'll need. It has a shower arm, the escutcheon plate for the shower arm, and shower head, you won't need any of those. But it does not have a tub filler spout, but from your post it doesn't seem you'll want one.

For use without a tub filler spout, you'll want a threaded 1/2" cap to cap the tub outlet port on the bottom of the valve.

If you're using copper and soldering things together, you'll want a 1/2" female threaded-to-soldered copper fitting to thread in to the valve's top outlet port, something like this:

Your run of 1/2" copper tubing will be soldered to that fitting and run up the wall where it'll be soldered to a 90-degree drop ear fitting like this:

Into the threaded end of the drop ear you'll thread a threaded nipple. The length of the nipple depends on the thickness of your wall, how deep in the wall the drop ear fitting is set, etc. I have a collection of nipples from 1" to 3" long. If you buy extra lengths, you can return the ones you don't use.

So one end of the nipple gets threaded into the drop ear fitting inside the wall, the other threaded end should stick out into the shower about a half an inch (or as needed) and your handheld's wall outlet gets threaded on to that.


clipped on: 10.04.2013 at 03:15 am    last updated on: 10.04.2013 at 03:15 am

RE: Have you ever seen 3x6 subway on mesh? (pictures) (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: jeanninepc99 on 01.17.2009 at 09:19 pm in Bathrooms Forum

Geez, I just read my original post and am horrified by my terrible spelling and grammar. I'm sorry, folks. I was in such a hurry to post.

Anyway, I found the guy through ebay. First, I emailed 4-5 people who had won auctions from him recently to see what they thought of the tile. All were positive. His western name is Simon (he's Chinese...I think his real name is Jun). His business is called Marble Outlet.

I've opened all the boxes, but haven't inspected every sheet of the subway and basketweave yet. So far, I'm very pleased. The prices were fantastic and none of what I've checked so far has been damaged (he said he'd replace anything damaged in shipment for free). I feel like I'm doing a commercial, so I might as well add that this guy's price was about $800 less than what I was quoted at the stores.

Here are some more pictures:
The baseboard and chair rail:


clipped on: 10.04.2013 at 03:02 am    last updated on: 10.04.2013 at 03:02 am

Simple white bathroom reveal

posted by: sparklebread on 04.06.2013 at 08:27 pm in Bathrooms Forum

It took me a few weeks to get the courage to share the results of our hall bath remodel. I am so thankful for the GW assistance, inspiration and support I received on this fulfilling, yet sometimes nerve wracking journey.

I snapped a few pictures with my iphone - they don’t do it justice, but will give you a general idea of the end result.

NOT loving the wall color- too green for me. If anyone feels inclined to throw out a suggestion or two- my feelings won’t be hurt!

There is something about this room that makes me happy….it just feels like “me”! Too bad it’s for the kids! Hope you like! ☺

Tub Kohler (Archer)
Tub and sink faucets as well as TP holder- (Kohler Bancroft ) in chrome
Sinks- Mirabelle 18 x 12 MIRU1812WH
Slab- Cararra honed
Vanity, mirror frame and trim- BM Decorators White
Walls- BM 1563 Quiet Moments -Aura
Sconce ��" Waterworks (Butler) in chrome
Vanity knobs- RH traditional clear glass
Toilet- Mirabelle (Key West)
Floor tile- Adex ( CITY 2" hex ADMW 522)
Walls- Adex ( NERI 3x6 ADNZ836 )
Adex (NERI Cornica Classica chair molding ADLZ 224)
Adex (Neri baseboard 6x6 ADNZ809)
Grout- MAPEI Warm Gray


clipped on: 10.03.2013 at 06:41 am    last updated on: 10.03.2013 at 06:41 am

RE: Budget bathroom makeover reveal (Follow-Up #18)

posted by: tinan on 08.01.2013 at 03:32 pm in Home Decorating & Design Forum

Regarding the mirrors, I purchased some adhesive meant for mirrors (and marble etc) I unscrewed the clips at the top of the mirror and squirted adhesive all down the back, then pushed the mirror back against the wall and re-fastened the clips. I waited 2 days for it to cure, then carefully took off the clips and checked that the mirrors were secure.

I used the same adhesive to stick the frame wood to the mirror. The wood was cut at Home Depot to my measurements - the top and bottom 1x4 is 1" longer than the width of the mirror so that it overlaps the edge by 1/2" each side to hide the glass edges. The side boards are the height of the mirror plus 1" then minus 7" for the width of the top and bottom boards (1x4's are actually 3.5" wide).

First I glued the crown molding to the top board with carpenter's glue and taped it in place overnight to set. I wanted to make "returns" out of crown but even though I am good at math I was unable to cut those angles with my hand saw and miter box! Turns out you would only be able to see it on the toilet side of the guest bath anyway and it looks OK without.

Then I used the mirror adhesive to stick the bottom board in place, taped it, then the side boards on top of that, taped them, then the top board with the crown. I left the blue tape overnight for the adhesive to cure it was solid by morning.

I used primed pine boards and crown, so I didn't even have to paint the backs since I was using white - they were already white primer (you can see along the edge in the mirror).


clipped on: 10.03.2013 at 06:36 am    last updated on: 10.03.2013 at 06:36 am

RE: Budget bathroom makeover reveal (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: tinan on 08.01.2013 at 12:49 am in Home Decorating & Design Forum

Trailrunner, for the countertops this is what I did:

- sanded with fine grit to give something to grip to
- did a coat of Glidden Gripper primer meant for glossy/slick surfaces
- did 2 thin coats with a roller of regular BM paint (leftover from other projects)
- did 2 thin coats of Varethane brand water borne polyurethane for High Traffic areas. Epoxy would also have been good but I didn't want high gloss.

We'll see how it holds up but it's a very smooth finish (easy to wipe off) and seems sturdy. I figure if it doesn't last I am not really worse off than the old stuff which I hated anyway and had stains (purple - hair dye?) and chips.

I don't know why the before pic would not show up it looks OK to me...

This post was edited by tinan on Thu, Aug 1, 13 at 0:50


Paint countertop
clipped on: 10.03.2013 at 06:34 am    last updated on: 10.03.2013 at 06:34 am

RE: marble hex tile (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: threeapples on 11.07.2012 at 09:07 pm in Bathrooms Forum

i'd be happy to take some photos tomorrow--the marble hex floors are being cleaned and sealed. right now they are covered in sawdust and paper. in the meantime, however, here is a photo of one of the hex styles we bought from oracle--these are two samples my tile guy made for me to determine grout. the other marble hex is whiter, but both are gorgeous and i've very happy with it.

Uploaded with Snapbucket


oracle stone and tile on amazon 9.99/sq ft
clipped on: 10.01.2013 at 06:36 am    last updated on: 10.01.2013 at 06:36 am

RE: Niche question - tile guys will be onto the niches tomorrow (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: treasuretheday on 11.02.2012 at 10:14 pm in Bathrooms Forum

Pictures of my niches are in the thread that StoneTech linked. We're really happy with the design of our niches, especially the rounded granite shelves. The middle shelf on our tall niche was installed in the way I believe that you are describing, with the shelf on top of the tile below it but directly against the Kerdi behind it.

You might get an idea from the photo below...



niche w/extended edges
clipped on: 10.01.2013 at 06:24 am    last updated on: 10.01.2013 at 06:24 am

RE: Do you like your shower niche? (Follow-Up #13)

posted by: treasuretheday on 09.28.2012 at 01:44 pm in Bathrooms Forum

Drewem ~ Thank you! Here's a picture of the exterior of my shower and I will take one of the inside of the pony wall, if you'd like. In designing and placing our niches, it was important to me that they not be seen from outside the shower. Our tall niche is on the wall to the left of the door.


Jan ~ Thanks. Our tile is porcelain, Edimax Materia Forte in the Bronzea color. I love the look of travertine but wanted to minimize maintenance. Our base molding in the shower and throughout the room is travertine. I've included a link below in case you want to see some more pictures of it in the room.

Beagles ~ I've never seen that done before... what a clever idea!

Here is a link that might be useful: Before and after pictures


Niche Behind pony wall, shower head in ceiling. Tile ceiling?
clipped on: 10.01.2013 at 06:22 am    last updated on: 10.01.2013 at 06:23 am

Master Bath reveal

posted by: phylhl on 03.14.2013 at 12:29 pm in Bathrooms Forum

At long last, the roman shade is up so I can reveal. This is my first try embedding pix in a post, so hopefully it will work:



The wardrobe just outside the bathroom:

Steam shower:

My 2 niches:


The new, more practical faucet spouts:




Let's see if this works then I'll post more details.

Ivory supreme granite
Marble mosaic by Jerusalem Heights - Manhattan basketweave
Fixtures - Rohl and Hans Grohe in polished nickel
Lights - Hudson Valley sconces and Crystorama chandelier.
Steam unit is thermasol.
Kerdi shower pan and waterproofing, thanks to GW!
Towels - Target Fieldcrest luxury, thanks also go GW.

We are loving it! Thanks for all of the great advice and help from GWers. Will work on posting pix of the other 3 baths now.


stunning bathroom
clipped on: 10.01.2013 at 05:55 am    last updated on: 10.01.2013 at 05:55 am

RE: Master Bath reveal (Follow-Up #20)

posted by: phylhl on 03.18.2013 at 09:37 pm in Bathrooms Forum

Yes, that granite was tough to find, especially since most of the slabs had fissures. Because of that, the fabricator had a very tough time making thinner pieces for the threshold, etc. So, the base of the niches are not that granite - they are carerra marble.

The cabinets are Dover Woods in Beluga stain. That was a tough one to find - a stain with gray /black tones vs brown that was not a custom color. Walls are BM Cape May Cobblestone. Trim is BM Super White.

The shower field tiles are Imola creme. Floors are Mirage Slate Gray 12x12 and 2x2s in the shower.

a2gemini - the total width of the vanity is 8'3".

Thanks all!


shower field tiles are imola creme
clipped on: 10.01.2013 at 05:50 am    last updated on: 10.01.2013 at 05:50 am

RE: In a little panic - faucets may be too large for sinks (Follow-Up #28)

posted by: phylhl on 11.28.2012 at 09:59 pm in Bathrooms Forum



stunning shower
clipped on: 10.01.2013 at 05:41 am    last updated on: 10.01.2013 at 05:42 am

RE: Cost to Gut 5x8 Bathroom? (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: weedyacres on 08.01.2013 at 09:47 am in Remodeling Forum

We DIY everything (except frameless glass and granite) and did an 8x10 brand new bathroom (new framing, plumbing, electrical, etc.) for around $10K for materials.

We're nearing the end of a super-budget bathroom gut (including replacing rotted floor joists) of a 5x7 bath and it'll come in under $2K, but that includes building a vanity with a CL-acquired granite top/sink.

I'd map out the steps involved in detail, put check marks by the ones you're confident you can do, and get quotes on the ones you want to hire out.

If you've got a decent amount of patience and you're not sloppy, you can take on tiling ("whether you think you can or you think you can't, you're right." --Bill Vincent) Tiling floors is a lot easier than tiling walls, except on the knees, so be prepared for patience. You can get a lot of help on surface prep and design planning here.

The shower will be your biggest expenditure. Using a prefab base from Swanstone, Onyx or Kohler will save time and prevent potential problems from bad installs (it's the most critical part of the shower, to make sure it drains correctly). Glass doors can be pricey, though if you get standard-size sliders from a big box store they're not as bad as custom frameless.

I'd avoid moving walls if you're doing this on a relative budget.

Here is a link that might be useful: progress photos of tiny budget bath

This post was edited by weedyacres on Wed, Aug 7, 13 at 8:05


Use the link
clipped on: 09.28.2013 at 03:21 am    last updated on: 09.28.2013 at 03:21 am

RE: decent calcatta marble-like tile (Follow-Up #26)

posted by: elphaba on 06.07.2013 at 01:16 am in Bathrooms Forum

My contractor who does a lot of tile work directed me to Floor and Decor - we did 12 X 24 with their bull nose also. It is matte finish, not polished. He said that is why he thinks it looks so real. The polished fake marble doesn't always look as good.

I think it is stunning but then I have to be honest, I have not been in a bathroom that was real marble. I wanted easy maintenance and that is how it is and everyone who sees it seems to be very impressed. I think you can order it online. We used the 12X24.

We didn't use it on the floor - I was worried it might be slippery - I don't have good balance.

Here's a sample of the Floor and Decor from our bath project:

Bull nose here at:


clipped on: 09.25.2013 at 06:01 pm    last updated on: 09.25.2013 at 06:01 pm

We've stormed the castle [bathroom]!

posted by: westleyandbuttercup on 05.19.2013 at 08:47 pm in Bathrooms Forum

We moved into our newly constructed home a little over a month ago. Things aren't quite complete--we don't have sidewalks and the house isn't even painted yet--but here's a peek at my master bath.

We love, love, love our shower...except for the grout on the wall tile. We went with a greige when we should have gone with a grey. I plan to attempt to remedy that this summer with a grout colorant.Shower photo IMG_1778_zps620fd31c.jpg
Shower photo IMG_1776_zps13fc3c93.jpg

Here's the view from the shower doorway. We were able to switch to a grey grout for the floor.
From the Shower Door photo IMG_1788_zps59b56740.jpg

Here's a more complete view of the vanity area. The tower between the sinks has a lift-up door that hides our electric toothbrush, hairdryer and such. The cupboard at the end of the vanity run has two hampers and tons of shelving space.
 photo Masterbathvanitywall_zps455364cb.jpg

This isn't a true reveal as I haven't compiled details for everything, but here are a few:
Shower wall and bathroom floor tile are both Mirasol glazed porcelain by American Olean. 10"x14" on the wall and 12"x12" on the floor.

Shower floor is Noir Hex 2"x2". Accent band is Silver Thorn with Glass Stria. Bench seat is Noir Honed 12"x12". All from The Tile Shop.

Wall color is Benjamin Moore Thunder.

Handles on the drawers are from the SkyeVale Collection and octagonal knobs are from the Fire Collection, both from Schaub and Company.


Shower floor
clipped on: 09.25.2013 at 06:39 am    last updated on: 09.25.2013 at 06:39 am

finished! Green vanity, marble basketweave, hex niche

posted by: shanghaimom on 02.28.2012 at 07:48 pm in Bathrooms Forum

We just finished our bathroom/laundry room combo. I'm so happy to have a bathtub back! Our house was built in 1889 and I have tried to keep a vintage feel in the bathrooms.

I was able to answer most of my questions with a good search, but definitely used all of the beautiful "finished bath" photos for inspiration. I discovered that "shower niches" aka "shampoo niches" are a bugger to find good photos of, so I'm including a pic of that! I used some leftover kitchen backsplash tile and let the tile guy go to town.

Kohler Memoirs sink, toilet, and shower combo.
Hampton Carerra basketweave floor tile from the Tile Shop
Calacatta Gold vanity countertop
White subways, baseboard and wainscot trim also Tile Shop


clipped on: 09.18.2013 at 06:21 am    last updated on: 09.18.2013 at 06:21 am

RE: Dallas-Fort Worth stone yards ??? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: cindallas on 06.12.2013 at 09:23 am in Kitchens Forum


Are you looking for something specific or just want to browse different places with great selections to find something to fall in love with? You mentioned you are in Dallas just till Wed afternoon, so you won’t have a lot of time. (Unless I have misunderstood this and you have till next Wednesday?) If I knew what you were looking for, I could direct you better.

If you are looking for something specific, you might make the best use of your time to call and ask if they have the name of the slab you are looking for. If you do have a name, sometimes it is known by other names as well and some places are familiar with several typical alternate names of the slabs (and some are not). It would also help if you include info like the thickness (2cm or 3cm, and most come in one or the other but sometimes will have slabs available in both thicknesses), the type of finish (polished, honed, leathered (also sometimes called antiqued), etc, and type of stone (granite, quartzite, marble, onyx, limestone, etc) or what you believe it to be (I know this is sometimes a confusing point, especially with quartzite) and any specific size requirements.

Or if you have a photo of what you want, and are just trying to match it, you can email them to check if they have it and/or can identify the stone. If you do this, get someone over the phone first and ask for their email directly and do it while on the phone for the fastest response. Or just go by, but I’m giving you suggestions based on your limited time frame.

Many slab showrooms/warehouses also take digital photos of their slab inventory and can email some of them to you for a preview of the real thing to see if it is even worth a visit. Some have current inventory on their website (of the actual slab, not just a generic one or some they had months before) but most don’t as most inventory comes and goes too fast. But there are exceptions of course.

If you don’t have a particular stone you are looking for and just want to see a lot of selection and are waiting for inspiration, IMC is the largest in town. But they don’t always carry everything, all the time. Allied has some nice exotics as well and they operate very differently from all the others in town. If you can tell me your situation, I could advise you further in this. I have actually worked with and purchased slabs from both IMC , Allied and others last year, so am quite familiar with them. And also a lot of the slab places in town as I was on the hunt for some very specific slabs (between quartzite, granite, onyx, limestone and marble) and tiles for my kitchen, master bath and bar.

I know you said you have already been to IMC, but wanted to mention their Ft. Worth showroom. You probably won’t have time to drive there, but depending on what you are looking for, they sometimes have had different stock there from Dallas (like a bundle of slightly different color that better suited the project or a different thickness or finish) or entirely different stones. Sometimes the Dallas people don’t always remember to mention this unless you ask, depending on the sales person you get. Just wanted you to know all of your options. If you are there again, you can ask and they can email pictures to you of the Ft Worth slabs you might be interested in. If you need it,
IMC 11210 Zodiac Lane Dallas TX 75229 (972) 488-5700 Listed hours: M-F 8-5, Sat 9-1

Levatina is right next door to IMC on the same side of the street on the south side. I don’t know where you live or how you are planning to get a slab from Dallas to where you are if you don’t live here (?) but they also have showrooms in Atlanta and Chicago. The same applies here to ask about stock in their other city showrooms if that applies to you. They are smaller than IMC. They are known for their excellent clear Crema Marfil and classic marbles and have had some really great granites and quartzite. Like IMC, they also carry some tiles and mosaics.
Levatina Dallas 11180 Zodiac Lane Dallas TX 75229 (972) 488-2800 Listed hours: M-F 8-5, Sat 10-1

Louisiana Stone is directly across the street from Levatina and is smaller but I have seen some nice slabs there and some very unusual. Last year, they had some really unique and beautiful slabs of combined travertine/onyx that I had never seen before. They also carry some tiles, some sinks and occasional kitchen ornamental hoods that they have in a front showroom. They have showrooms in Dallas and Monroe, LA.
Louisiana Stone 11125 Zodiac Lane Dallas TX 75229 (972) 243-5565 (hours not listed)

Walker Zanger is an upscale designer showroom for natural stone tile and slabs. It has more of a tile showroom than anyone else with great room vignettes and a smaller slab warehouse. Very nice and upscale travertines, limestones and marbles as well as exotic slabs and tile. I can’t remember if they are open to the public or just To The Trade, but you can call and ask. They have showrooms in Florida, Georgia, North Carolina, Texas, New York, New Jersey and California.
Walker Zanger 11550 Newberry, Suite 300 Dallas, TX 75229 (972) 481-3900 Listed Hours: M-F 8-4:30

Dal Tile is another showroom and most people think they just have tile, but they do carry slabs as well in specific locations. They used to have just the very basic slabs but I have heard that they have expanded recently to include the more exotic and highly sought out stones like the other showrooms. Many tile showrooms within a city but typically only one with the slab yard. Slab yards across the nation with over 40 locations in multiple states. They also have a Ft Worth showroom like IMC does.
DalTile 2250 LBJ Freeway (highway 635) suite 300 Dallas TX 75229 (hours not listed) (972) 620-8427

Arizona Tile is not in the typical tile and stone showroom areas but is worth the trip. Since you don’t have much time, you could give them a call and ask for their slab desk for slab questions or inventory. They have a large tile and slab selection. Probably second largest inventory after IMC. They are a very large company with locations in Arizona, California, Colorado, Hawaii, Montana, New Mexico, Texas (Dallas and Houston), Utah and Washington.
Arizona Tile 2701 Regent Blvd #100 Irving / DFW Airport TX 75261 Listed hours: M-F 8-5, Sat 9-3 (972) 456-0935
(Note: GPS mis-locates them so refer to their website map. Close to DFW
Airport exit off LBJ/635, take Royal Lane exit west on the south side of 635)

I’m not sure how experienced you are at this and if my additional information is helpful or unnecessary, but I’d rather give you the information so you know about it. To put a slab on hold if and when you do find something, you will need to know how many slabs to hold and it will have to be under the name of a fabricator. Until the final measurements are finalized or you are already working with a professional, put an extra slab or so on hold. And ask how long the hold will be in effect. Three days to seven or ten days is common here, depending on the slab yard. (Hopefully you know the finished sizes you need and if you are having an island or large peninsula which can take up an entire slab or the majority of one and can calculate it roughly. Different materials have different typical sizes so you will also need to ask for the actual size of the slab(s) you have on hold to verify that it will work and how many you need. You or a trusted professional (designer or GC) will need to verify measurements so you don’t miss getting an extra slab if needed.

And when you do finalize your slab, and actually pay for the deposit with the fabricator, communicate with the fabricator often, if not daily, until it is picked up. And until that is actually done, personally keep in contact with the rep you worked with at the stone place, and find out the progress of the hold and the fabricators pick up schedule. If you have been doing this and your fabricator is dragging their feet on this, they can frequently put an additional hold on it, so you don’t lose your slab(s). And be sure to thank the stone yard for all of their assistance with this. There are many sad tales of fabricators not picking up slabs in time and people losing their slabs. Due diligence can prevent this.

A note on slab pricing. The majority of all of these places will not give you prices of slabs. They will give you a vague price range or value number, Grade 1, 2, 3, etc or say upper-middle, lower-middle, basic, exotic (read expensive), and the like. They will sell directly to the fabricator (who cuts, edges and installs the slabs) but not sell to you directly, unless it is an unusual circumstance). And it is up to the fabricator you select, for how they charge. Some charge you the full slab plus the labor and you get to keep any leftover. Sometimes they itemize this and you know materials and labor and some times you don’t. Some will charge you only what they use for you (charge for the sq footage) knowing they will sell the remnants. And some will charge you for the entire slab and not let you have the remnants without a hassle and additional charge. You have to ask. And sometimes they offer a choice or you can ask for how you want it. There are regional differences for what is standard I am sure, but locally in Dallas, all of these exist.

A note on pricing from the fabricator. Also, the price the stone showroom charges each fabricator is different, for the exact same slab(s). Again, this is how things work here. It might be very different in other areas. The slab showroom charges differently depending on how much business the fabricator gives them - volume pricing. Less to the ones that give them the most business. Each slab showroom has a list of “preferred fabricators” that they work with all of the time and they also give their best pricing to. If you don’t already have a fabricator when you find your slabs, most places let you ask the stone rep at the slab place to pick one of their best fabricators and just put your hold under their name. If you have not already been working with a fabricator that has been out to measure and give an estimate for you or if you have a GC or designer that had a preferred fabricator to work with you, you can get several bids if you want to see how different bids look for the same stone at the same source.
… (getting bids and all of that is a whole other conversation but when I did it for myself, I researched the fabricator and knew their capabilities and matched the level of their experience and detail work with the complications of the job I had of book-matched slabs, custom edges and many matched cuts along with delicate stones).

I hope this information is useful and gets you started in the right direction. If you have any other questions or need clarification on anything I have said, just let me know.

Thanks, Cindi


Stone yards
clipped on: 09.15.2013 at 10:36 pm    last updated on: 09.15.2013 at 10:37 pm

RE: You want to have a peek at my new marble floor ? (Follow-Up #27)

posted by: lillo on 05.24.2013 at 03:43 pm in Bathrooms Forum

This is my bathroom now with the paint . I love the color, it's bright and airy and has as the painter said its an aquatic color . He liked it too over the blueish color . Benilus, I don't have the first sample of Snow White , the tile man threw it with his garbage . The only difference between the two colors is that the bright white is more sparkling . I think this why it has this hue in the pictures . Motherof3inct , I don't know the brand of the glass tile , I ordered it through a tile store . The sample board didn't have a brand on it . The box that it came in has made in china written on it . The retail price is $ 28.80 for the sheet . Sofla , the painter painted over my samples today , sorry I wanted to show you the other color. It looks really nice too check it out if you haven't yet . I also feel that the color when put on the whole wall seems lighter than when you paint your samples .


Wall tile
clipped on: 09.15.2013 at 06:32 pm    last updated on: 09.15.2013 at 06:33 pm

RE: Bathroom Remodel, where to start (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: worriedone on 03.19.2013 at 02:54 pm in Bathrooms Forum

Building codes and get those municipal construction notices if necessary. Dumpster rental? Haul? I would talk to city/town first and find out what needs to be legally.

Then: Walls. Insulation. Moisture barriers. Check for mold. Electrical upgrades. (wiring for appliances, lighting, supply sockets) Ventilation. Heat/AC supplies/returns.

Then plumbing. Not sure if you are going to pre-purchase large items before install? Just be sure to measure width/depth and mark on subflooring just where everything is going. Do you have room for the elongated toilet seat when opening the door? Things like this. I don't know how many times I was sent back to get the right item once the wrong one just didn't fit. Some distributors will charge a restock fee for returned items. Be warned. :)

Walls - taping, sealing, prime and paint/finish. This is when - after all is dry and looking wonderful - fans and lights too, are installed. Be sure as rain where they are to be placed. Once the hole is there in the ceiling...if it needs to be moved -- you will notice patching. Switch plates, etc. (might want to buy TWO of them, if one gets ruined)

Some say floor next. (Heating in floor?) I say install tub/toilet/sink. Run the water to be sure there is no leaking/sealing probs. More than one time a nice floor has been ruined due to leaks between the sub and the flooring. Then tile or whatever. Vanity can be placed on top of flooring and probably should if you decide to change from vanity to pedestal type later. Unless you rip out the old flooring and start over...
your choice.

Then light fixtures. Once all the huge hammers, ladders, etc have been removed :) Broke a glass to a lamp during install that could not be returned or replaced due to it being on clearance. Had to change out the entire light fixture :(. Still sad about that but it looks ok.

Hope all goes well and you have no uh-ohs at all that can't be cared for quickly. Getting ready to do a tiny reno on my upstairs bath too after the estimates from local companies went way over budget. OUCH! Glad the one downstairs is done but that light fixture!! ;)

Remember, perhaps to buy 2 of some items, in the off chance something breaks during install. Just a suggestion. Video for later. Always fun to watch once it is done. Have fun! :)


Remodel order
clipped on: 09.14.2013 at 06:13 am    last updated on: 09.14.2013 at 06:13 am

Please weigh in on my counter choices

posted by: kmcg on 08.22.2012 at 02:44 pm in Bathrooms Forum

My floor tile just arrived, and I've got a vanity cabinet, but now I need a counter. Which do you like, if any? First, the context:

My house was built in 1906, so we don't want to stray too far from a traditional or transitional look. That said, my husband vetoed hex marble flooring so I went with large scale faux-marble, which strikes me as verging toward modern. For the counter, I'm drawn toward quartz, which also reads modern in most settings. I guess I'm open minded, but don't want something that's totally out of sync with my Edwardian house.

The flooring is porcelain 12x12; it's called Marmi Statuario Veneto, by Isis USA. It has a creamy, warm tone to it, as opposed to a blue-gray tone that seems to be the other option with marble look-alikes.

The vanity is cherry with a medium cherry finish and a fairly traditional looking door/drawer. The counter will be 60" long with a single undermount sink (Toto cotton white) and a traditional looking chrome faucet.

The shower will be white on white - basically bands of white subway and probably arabesque, plus faux-marble if I can find one I like that has a glossy finish.

I'm showing photos of all the finalist options, with the counter sample set on top of the floor tile, next to a drawer front that I'm in the process of refinishing.

Here's quartz in "concrete". It has tiny bubbles of grays - looks a lot like polished concrete:
concrete quartz

Here's "snowy" quartz - a lot like concrete in terms of bubble size/texture:
snowy quartz

Here's Verde Antiqua marble, honed finish. This color is almost a perfect match to Restoration Hardware's Silver Sage color; we have a fair bit of that color in the house elsewhere, so I was naturally drawn to this marble when I first began looking.
verde antiqua

Here's a quartz in "nougat", which has lots bigger flakes and more movement than the Snowy or Concrete:
nougat quartz

Finally, here's carrara, which is obviously very gray compared to my tile. Although initially the counter of my dreams, I've cooled off on this one as I've looked around:
carrara veneto


Porcelain floor tile
clipped on: 09.14.2013 at 05:37 am    last updated on: 09.14.2013 at 05:38 am

Pics: 1826 bathroom remodel (finished; starphire vs. regular)

posted by: KevinMP on 07.13.2012 at 11:48 pm in Bathrooms Forum

So my glass vendor finally switched out my regular glass (mistakenly sent the first time around) for the starphire I ordered about two months ago. So I'm reposting the entire remodel so that everything is in one spot for all to see.

As I mentioned in my earlier post, my house was built in 1826 and, therefore, had no bathroom in the original structure. The old bathroom was not terrible, but it was an all white bathroom from the 80's. Now, it's up to date but still in keeping with the house.

Before we get to the pictures, materials. I spent hours on this forum trying to reassure myself that I was making the right decisions (or to find options in the first place). I can only pay back by letting everyone know what I needed up using.

Tile: The bathroom floor, tub surround, shower walls are all 9"x18" honed calacatta gold tile that I found in northern Jersey leftover from a job for a steal ($12.95 per square foot). I couldn't find matching mosaic for the shower floor, so I picked through several boxes of "grecian white" marble at either Home Depot or Lowes (I cannot even remember now) and found ones that matched well (they're polished, but no one will know). I used SenGuard sealer, which was the only sealer my marble and granite yard would recommend for calacatta, and it's doing very well and should last 15-20 years. About $3,000.

Heated Floor: Nuheat mat and thermostat. About $375.

Tub: Mirabelle Edenton air bath 60"x30"x20" with chrome tap drain in white. I struggled to find a tub that was 32" or less wide that still provided ample interior space, and you'd be surprised how large the interior of this tub is. It actually has as much space as tubs four to six inches wider. I've posted a video of the tub in use if you search under my name and are interested. About $1900.

Toilet: Jacuzzi Perfecta in white. About $190.

Vanity: Silkroad Exclusive 60" double vanity; a ton of storage compared to others (see below). I bought the vanity on eBay and it was shipped directly from Silkroad Exclusive. It was a steal (I think) for just over $900. It came with a travertine top, ivory sinks, and bronze hardware. I destroyed the top and sinks because they didn't go with what I was doing and swapped them out. I also swapped our the bail pulls with Restoration Hardware bail pulls in polished nickel (the only bail pulls I could find) and knobs in polished nickel. About $60.

Mirrors: Fanella mirrors from Lowes. It took me forever to find mirrors that matched the vanity, but I finally did, and they were cheap at about $90 a piece.

Vanity Top, Shower Threshold/Knee Wall Caps: After much searching, I finally settled on a 2 cm slab of Antique Brown granite in a leathered finish, which goes well with the honed finish of the tile and the coloring. About $1600 installed.

Sinks: Kohler Archer sinks. About $100 a piece.

Shower, tub, and vanity plumbing hardware: All Kohler Pinstripe Pure, and two K-8002 body sprays in polished chrome and all Kohler valves. About $3000.

Shower door and knee wall glass: Starphire glass and Kohler Pinstripe handle. About $2000.

Lighting: Five pot lights and one sconce (sconce is Dillon from Restoration Hardware in polished chrome with linen shade). About $220.

Window: Anderson 400 series casement.

Paint: All Benjamin Moore Bath/Spa in Matte: Ceiling and trim are dove white and walls are Mount Saint Anne.

I'm happy to answer any questions. It's the least I can do to save some other people the months it took me to figure this all out. Enjoy.





Taken through the glass believe it or not:
























And so you can see what the regular glass looked like before I made them switch it out, see below. You may not think it makes a big difference, but it does to me. Now you know. Don't spend $26K on a bathroom and skimp on glass that obscures your white tile.



Toilet jacuzzi prestige
clipped on: 09.14.2013 at 05:37 am    last updated on: 09.14.2013 at 05:37 am

RE: You want to have a peek at my new marble floor ? (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: lillo on 05.15.2013 at 02:35 pm in Bathrooms Forum

Here is my new shower floor the sun shining on it.


clipped on: 09.13.2013 at 07:33 am    last updated on: 09.13.2013 at 07:33 am

RE: frill-less stand alone tub? (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: smabbott on 02.27.2013 at 08:36 pm in Bathrooms Forum

We were all set with the V&A York tub. However because of the plumbing location in our bathroom, we needed something we could mount the faucet to and purchased the Maax Jazz freestanding tub instead. I haven't used it yet (it was just installed today!) but looking forward to very soon! You can read more at the link below. GL!

Here is a link that might be useful: Views from Summit : 'Whoa that's expensive!' Woes


clipped on: 09.11.2013 at 04:44 am    last updated on: 09.11.2013 at 04:45 am

RE: Porcelain "Carrara marble" look-alike tile? (Follow-Up #16)

posted by: keithdirt on 08.17.2013 at 12:35 pm in Bathrooms Forum

blondelle, if MW297 doesn't respond for some reason, here's the link where I'm purchasing mine:

Here is a link that might be useful: Mirasol Bianco Carrara Tile


clipped on: 09.11.2013 at 04:30 am    last updated on: 09.11.2013 at 04:31 am

Bathroom window finished, finally close to finishing the remodel

posted by: KevinMP on 09.03.2013 at 07:58 am in Bathrooms Forum

Excuse the double post from the decorating forum.

I'm sure it won't be to everyone's liking, but I've finished the bathroom window. You may recall the remodel I did two years ago, but I've been struggling as to what to do with the window and how to tie everything together, and the blinds in there previously were both temporary and a pain in the neck because of the window handle and lock. This is what I finally decided on. Both are from Country Curtains (sand colored thermal/blackout lined grass-woven roman shade (with a roller mechanism and hidden handle, not strings) and the new Casablanca valance in blue.

Thank you for all of the comments/assistance along the way. I think it does exactly what I wanted it to do. Now I just need to finish painting the trim in a higher gloss and the new doorway.

I've reposted the befores and afters so that you can see the entire difference.

Before (picture from original listing, and it didn't get much better before the remodel):

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Befores from after I moved in but before the renovation:

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After renovation (about $27K, there are some conflicting photographs because it was a work in progress for a while):

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clipped on: 09.11.2013 at 04:15 am    last updated on: 09.11.2013 at 04:16 am

RE: decent calcatta marble-like tile (Follow-Up #14)

posted by: beekeeperswife on 11.05.2012 at 10:25 am in Bathrooms Forum

I'm a little late, but I did my master bath in the 18x18 tiles from Mission Stone & Tile. $4.35 sq. ft.



Michelle16 used the same tile in her laundry and she loves it too.

Here is a link that might be useful: Calacatta Porcelain


clipped on: 09.11.2013 at 03:49 am    last updated on: 09.11.2013 at 03:49 am

Pic of espresso cabinet, carrera, chrome fixtures, memoirs sink

posted by: pps7 on 08.03.2010 at 04:27 pm in Bathrooms Forum

I can't find the thread where someone was looking at all these components. Here they are together:




clipped on: 09.11.2013 at 02:50 am    last updated on: 09.11.2013 at 02:50 am

RE: Pic of espresso cabinet, carrera, chrome fixtures, memoirs si (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: pps7 on 08.04.2010 at 01:13 pm in Bathrooms Forum

Thanks everyone. Still need to accessorize before I can post bathroom is done pix. Any ideas on window treatments?Here's a little info:

Wall color: BM Gray Wisp. Trim: BM Simply White
Tub: 68" sunrise specialty with hardware
Vanity: Shiloh furniture style vanities in espresso.
Sink: Kohler Memoirs
Medicine Cabinets: RH Cartwright Large
Sconce: Hudson Valley
Countertops: polished carrera marble

Hard to get a pic of the shower without glare.



clipped on: 09.11.2013 at 02:49 am    last updated on: 09.11.2013 at 02:50 am