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Do It Yourself Murphy Bed

posted by: moccasinlanding on 09.18.2012 at 05:35 pm in Smaller Homes Forum

Found this link in one of my favorite newsletters, from LIFE_EDITED. Making a $275 Murphy bed is a bargain, considering some finished ones cost $1500 and more.

Plans for $8, I'll take the change and put it on my kitchen remodel.

Here is a link that might be useful: Murphy Bed for $275 built

NOTES:

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clipped on: 09.21.2012 at 12:08 pm    last updated on: 09.21.2012 at 12:09 pm

RE: Calling all pet feeding stations (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: old1880home on 12.23.2008 at 02:42 pm in Kitchens Forum

I thought about doing this but it wasn't practical for my kitchen.

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NOTES:

dog feeding
clipped on: 08.20.2012 at 12:05 pm    last updated on: 08.20.2012 at 12:05 pm

Couldn't resist - banquette cushion in!

posted by: a2gemini on 08.05.2012 at 10:01 am in Kitchens Forum

Hi all
Tried going cold turkey on posting any new pictures - but couldn't resist. I picked up our new banquette bench cushions yesterday and love them. The iphone doesn't do them justice - but a start. I couldn't get a good overall picture of the area due to the light - The bench is in the east windows and there are also another set of windows on the south side.

The seat is actually cayenne and some of the dots match perfectly. The GC sill has to instal the back -so the cushions are just there for looks. I have 2 pillow all dots, 2 pillows in cayenne and 2 pillows that are reversible.

The bench is between the two "caves" - one for DH and one for me. We each have a pull out work surface and we each have our own charging station. I put mine under the 2 drawers and DH uses one of the drawers - nice to have flexibility.

I ordered our table for the area. It will be an Amish shaker style table with a lift top. I specifically didn't try to match all of the cherry but contrast the color (still cherry but a different color) - the picture is just the stock picture and not the actual unit that we ordered.

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Shows pull out works space and drawer
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Last one - DH side of the area
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Picture of the coffee table that will be in front of the bench - the top will rise up to be 30 inches and moves towards the bench so DH and I can use as a breakfast area.

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NOTES:

work cabinets "desk" space.
clipped on: 08.07.2012 at 10:36 am    last updated on: 08.07.2012 at 10:37 am

RE: Finished kitchen soapstone and quartzite (Follow-Up #16)

posted by: CEFreeman on 07.17.2012 at 12:19 pm in Kitchens Forum

I love your colors!

In this the picture below, it seems that wall cabinet is a shade of the peninsula color. Is it actually the Revere pewter? And do these two colors show the hint of green IRL my monitor shows?

I forgot to mention I LOVE the colors in your carpet!

NOTES:

molding over curved doorway
clipped on: 07.17.2012 at 09:26 pm    last updated on: 07.17.2012 at 09:26 pm

RE: good quality beadboard (wood and azek)... where? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: melissastar on 07.07.2012 at 08:45 pm in Kitchens Forum

I found mine by finding local lumber mills online and calling to ask if they had it/made it. Found nice white oak beadboard at a VERY reasonable price at a mill in Hagarstown, MD. that way. As an aside...my RTSOG (rotten, thieving sack of garbage) general contractor complained he couldn't find it....I think that's because his idea of looking was to go to Home Depot.

NOTES:

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clipped on: 07.08.2012 at 11:35 pm    last updated on: 07.08.2012 at 11:35 pm

Using stud wall space ?'s

posted by: melaska on 07.05.2012 at 10:36 am in Building a Home Forum

Hi - we are plugging right along with our build - got our first wall up the other day. Anyway...I have a couple questions regarding the use of stud wall space.

We're only utilizing the walls inside where needed since we live in a very cold winter climate in Alaska.

How do you indicate the space in a floor plan?

Some of the interior walls will be 8", some 6". The spaces I'd like would include the bathroom, niches for fire extinguishers, etc.

What spaces do you recommend?

Would love to see photos of what you did with your stud wall space.

What kind of doors did you use? I've seen art work used which is a very cool idea.

Thanks! :)

NOTES:

look! great ideas
try between the studs
clipped on: 07.08.2012 at 09:58 pm    last updated on: 07.08.2012 at 09:58 pm

Infinite thanks! We are finished!

posted by: jaymielo on 11.17.2008 at 05:27 pm in Kitchens Forum

I want to send out a huge thank you to all the people who lent me advice, opinions and their experience in the last 2 years. I'm an eternally grateful! Pulling those last few things together proved to be very painful, but we are finally almost there. I'm sure some of you observant TKOs will notice the few remaining items to be done, but this is as good as it gets. Here is an overall shot of the space.

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Details... The cabinets are Amish made of quartersawn white oak with miniwax Red Oak stain. The floors are quartersawn red oak with no stain. The counters are Green Mountain Original soapstone.

This is our nook. The table, which we had custom made, comfortably seats our family of four for casual dinners. We have two more chairs and 2 leaves which we can add for a little bigger dinner. The secretary in the hutch folds down and provides a writing surface plus a place to stash mail and odds and ends.

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The kitchen itself sits behind the nook. The formal dining room is through the door at the end of the kitchen. I wanted to wine fridge and "real" fridge as well as the pantry on the edges of the kitchen so they could be accessed by guests or the kids without getting in the way for the cooks.

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We have additional seating for four at the island, which is handy when we are cooking for company or for breakfast or snacks for the boys.

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The faucet is the Kohler Simplice and the sink is the ever popular single bowl Ticor. I'm very happy with them both. You can also see our giant cutting block in this picture. For a while we toyed around with the idea of making part of the island butcher block, but I'm happy with the compromise we struck. The fridge an Amana French door.

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The range is a Blue Star 36", which is dream to cook on. The hood is by Futuro and the backsplash was custom made by Artistic Abode based on some line drawings I provided.

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The Micro is an Advantium 120. It is a convection so it serves as our second oven and we are really enjoying the combination of that with the Blue Star range. Our reach in pantry has custom made cafe doors which match our cabinets and a pendant light which matches the pendants over our island and in the nook.

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And here is the pantry itself. It is small but mighty!

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Thank you again to everyone who patiently contributed to my threads. Building this kitchen was a pleasure. I wonder if I'll ever get to do it again...

NOTES:

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clipped on: 07.05.2012 at 02:35 pm    last updated on: 07.05.2012 at 02:35 pm

Long Journey - New Kitchen after 7 years of planning

posted by: postquake_angela on 05.31.2012 at 12:24 am in Kitchens Forum

Hi All,

I joined this forum in 2003 and spent 2 years planning a kitchen and started acquiring parts for it. Then, exhausted from restoring the rest of our 1898 Victorian, we decided to put the project off. We lived for 7 years with an extra stove, a fridge that was too big for its nook, and half-opened boxes containing the sink and faucet piled on top of the fridge. At this point, it's been mostly done for 6 months.


DETAILS

Cabinets - Full custom painted poplar inset. We found a local craftsman who we could afford. Loved this guy, can't believe we got so lucky. He has since moved to Spain.

Countertops - Stainless. Wanted marble, but our tomato-sauce splattering ways would have gotten us in trouble.

Island countertop - Hasn't happened yet. Probably do the marble here, or maybe engineered granite

Sink - Baumatic Uragano sink. Got it from some Canadian dealer online.

Faucet - Franke Triflow. Bought during some Homeclick sale back in 2005, they don't even make this model anymore.

Fridge - We found a floor-model Amana on Craiglist a few years back. It was the one we wanted and a bargain, but we had to rip out old cabs and live with a messed up wall for a few years.

Stove - 1950's O'keefe and Merritt. Found on Craiglist.

Hood - Vent-a-hood

Dishwasher - F&P. We like them a lot, with caveats.

Ceiling Lights - Cree CR6. I like the quality of light, kinda wish we'd gotten the CR4, which are the 4" version.

Pendant Light - Restoration hardware.

Undercab Lights - from Environmentallights.com. We rarely use them, the reflection off the stainless is dizzying.

Floor - We kept our existing Saltillo tile floor, which we've always loved.

Backsplash - None! No regrets yet.

Old Kitchen was not as horrendous as some, but the cabs were starting to melt.
Old kitchen

Old Kitchen

New:
New Kitchen

Looking into the dining room

Fridge Wall
The fridge is an Amana

Stove
stove

Between-the-studs-pantry and pendant
Between the studs pantry

Hutch in Dining room
Hutch in Dining room

Island of baking
Island

Here's the link to the whole album if anyone wants to dork out and see how I organized stuff.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/renderblue/sets/72157626793760767/


LESSONS LEARNED:

Not to assume what we couldn't afford without asking. We assumed we couldn't afford a local custom cabmaker. We assumed we couldn't afford the Siematic-certified GC that our friend had used and liked. We spent a lot of time getting quotes and finally asked these guys last and their quotes turned out to be lower.

Everything I really like will probably look dated at some point. When I started designing, creamy inset cabs were not ubiquitous. There was a lot of cherry or maple full-overlay cabs with ubatuba counters, or coffee glazed cabs with gold granite. I re-visited my decisions when started up in 2011, especially given some gorgeous design trend that were happening, but I still loved what I loved.

We hated the 2003 restoration so much that we dreaded doing the kitchen and bathroom for years. Meanwhile we lived in limbo and didn't bother to de-clutter or properly organize the space we were living in. At some point you just have to stop agonizing and do it already.

NOTES:

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clipped on: 06.26.2012 at 09:12 pm    last updated on: 06.26.2012 at 09:13 pm

RE: Another 8 ft ceiling question (chimney range hood?) (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: breezygirl on 06.25.2012 at 03:12 am in Kitchens Forum

Consider yourself lucky to have 8" ceilings. Mine aren't even that high! Here's what my 42" hood looks like with my shorty ceilings. Sorry about the lighting on the hood.

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One of the unchangeable things I HATE about my house is the low ceilings.

NOTES:

uppers - so few! so simple and sweet.
clipped on: 06.25.2012 at 12:35 pm    last updated on: 06.25.2012 at 12:35 pm

RE: Mid Century Modern style kitchen - suggestions? (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: francoise47 on 06.10.2012 at 08:31 am in Kitchens Forum

Hi jerzeegirl,

Sounds like you are already moving in a great direction for your streamlined MCM kitchen. I think you are considering IKEA cabinets? If so, that would be a great way of achieving the modern look.
The chairs and lighting will make a big impact in creating the MCM look. I love your idea of the Breuer Cesca chair (1928!) for a modern look. Are yours caned? If so, you may want to focus on other natural/organic decorative elements in your kitchen, especially with the lighting and backsplash.

Even in a smallish kitchen, I'd try to have one open or floating shelf to emphasis horizontal planes for a MCD feel.

Horizontal floating shelf inspiration from Viola Park:
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Interesting, textural backsplash, although the scale of these tiles may be too large for your kitchen:

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On a related topic:

A favorite inspiration picture showing an eclectic blend of midcentury chairs and pendant in an older home:

Inspiration, Jessica Helgerson design -- she is so inspiring.

NOTES:

first pic simple open shelves
clipped on: 06.11.2012 at 09:37 am    last updated on: 06.11.2012 at 09:37 am

RE: small small kitchen (Follow-Up #94)

posted by: mama_goose on 06.05.2012 at 12:21 am in Smaller Homes Forum

Hi, shades, :)

8x8 folding brackets on eBay (less expensive than the same thing on Amazon.)

Also pics of the small table in my (unfinished) guest room:
Folded against the wall--
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Closer look at the brackets--
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They are rated at 50#s, but I wanted a table just big enough for a laptop. I actually have them mounted on some scrap 2x4s to set the table out a little farther, because of the bookcases, and for structural strength.

You can google 'wall mount table' for some other ideas, too.

msjay, please excuse the hijack. If you are certain that you are using a fold-up table with this style of bracket (you can find longer ones on Amazon.c), I'd suggest putting a couple of cross braces in the wall, at the correct height between the studs, for stability.

NOTES:

wall mount table
clipped on: 06.08.2012 at 02:31 pm    last updated on: 06.08.2012 at 02:31 pm

RE: small small kitchen (Follow-Up #52)

posted by: marti8a on 05.23.2012 at 11:47 pm in Smaller Homes Forum

We built a cabinet similar to that. You can see it in my post about starting the kitchen with a difference of opinions. We anchored the cabinet against the regular cabinets on one side, and a bench on the other side, but it really doesn't have much keeping it in place on that side.

Buehl, who posts on the kitchen forum a lot, made a slideshow on how to build a cabinet like the one in your photo.

here

NOTES:

How to build frig cabinet
clipped on: 05.29.2012 at 12:55 pm    last updated on: 05.29.2012 at 12:55 pm

RE: Please post photos of your baking area (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: cotehele on 01.08.2010 at 07:46 pm in Kitchens Forum

Mine is not done yet. The room is 8' x 16'

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Here is the other side. The bookcases are temporary.
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The hardware came yesterday! As soon as the cabs are painted, no more blue tape. :)

NOTES:

old sink. support and faucet.
clipped on: 05.29.2012 at 10:57 am    last updated on: 05.29.2012 at 10:58 am

RE: Please post photos of your baking area (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: jeri on 01.08.2010 at 05:19 pm in Kitchens Forum

Oh - I just posted this in the thread about Baking Area Height. This is not mine - but I thought it looked like a good idea

Bake Zone

NOTES:

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clipped on: 05.29.2012 at 10:57 am    last updated on: 05.29.2012 at 10:57 am

soapstone before/after rehoning

posted by: farmgirlinky on 06.25.2011 at 11:42 am in Kitchens Forum

Hope this is useful to some soapstone folks. We were overall happy with our Jucca soapstone counters from Dorado, but I was bothered by the higher-than-expected sheen after dry waxing, which had the advantage of making the iron and quartz veining "pop" more, but also made the counters easier to visibly scratch (scratches in the wax?) and perhaps more likely to have watermarks trapped under wax. I wanted a more traditional soapstone feel, and through remodelfla and others, reached Joshua of Creative Stone in Florida, who put me in touch with a former colleague of his in Pennsylvania, David Mellinger (267-644-8388) who just happened to be passing through Connecticut one week later. He rehoned our counters and oiled them with Clark Stanley's Snake Oil Liniment (=mineral oil), and we are thrilled with the difference. He sanded first with 80 grit, then with 150 grit. Water was involved in the final stages, too, but I was in the office when it happened and can't cite chapter and verse.) We are now officially thrilled with the soapstone instead of pleased/anxious. The veining is more subtle, but that's fine. At the risk of boring those who have seen pictures from this kitchen ad nauseum: the first two pictures are before rehoning, the latter are after rehoning:

BEFORE REHONING, WAXED WITH DORADO DRY WAX

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BEFORE ETC.

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AFTER REHONING, OILED WITH MINERAL OIL

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AFTER REHONING, ETC.

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NOTES:

matte finish on the soapstone.
how to.
clipped on: 05.26.2012 at 07:06 pm    last updated on: 05.26.2012 at 07:07 pm

RE: No backsplash on window wall? Rhome410? Anyone else? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: abbycat9990 on 05.18.2012 at 11:47 am in Kitchens Forum

Here's our set-up
newkitchen 7a sink
We chose extra wide trim around the windows and have clear caulk where it meets the countertop.
My regret/annoyance with this set-up is that I find myself compulsively wiping off water drops and splashes from the sealed wood trim. I wish the sink was set forward/the wall was pushed back, so I wouldn't get all the splashing.

In our laundry room, we have painted wall behind the sink, and a window well above the counter surface. I kind of prefer that, because I think the wall can withstand moisture better than wood trim - and there's plenty of room for a tiled backsplash, if we ever get around to it.
14 Attached to kitchen, the Laundry room provides additional storage and desk space, and features original built-in ironing board.

NOTES:

dark
light
think about it.
love the laundry room set up
clipped on: 05.23.2012 at 02:41 pm    last updated on: 05.23.2012 at 02:41 pm

RE: Positano's Finished Costa Esmeralda Kitchen!!! (Follow-Up #36)

posted by: positano on 10.18.2010 at 08:34 pm in Kitchens Forum

All right, I've got some time now to read all the comments and post some answers! Once again I want to thank you for the lovely feedback, it feels so great!

mountaineergirl- My undercabinet lighting is Kichler xenon. The light is amazing, crisp and clear, doesn't get hot and not an ugly flourescent color. Makes everyone look good!
They look like this. I have some that have 2, 3 or 4 blubs depending on where they are. My electrician said they are a little bit more expensive, but so worth it. He was right.

Here is the link, I didn't get them on amazon.
http://www.amazon.com/12-1-4-Inch-Under-Cabinet-Light/dp/B001B9YQSQ

grneyesct- So glad your moving forward on the green granite.
Countertop selection was definitely the harderst for me.I'm following your other post and see more green kitchens being posted. SHow us some pics soon!

catkin- My father actually made that lazy susan on the table for us! We love it, especially the kids. I could ask him how much something like that would be. He is great with woodworking and does it in his spare time.

nclakehouse- Yes, that was me asking for your backsplash info way back when! Good memory. I think I was also asking you about the Bosch range. How's the lakehouse?

kitchenkelly- I really should have put you down as my inspriation. I loved your kitchen when I first saw it. In fact I used your gorgeous tile in my mudroom, so mad at myself for not getting the cool 24x12 size like yours though. I always say go with your gut! So, many people tried to talk me out of things. Some succeded and some didn't . They said don't do white cabs with kids or stainless steel, but it all turned out fine! Thanks for all your help along the way. Still love those morgue drawers...are they filled up for Halloween yet?

Jterrilynn- Not from Positano, just loved it there so much when I went 10 years ago. Just a wonderful place. Funny how my kitchen is not an italian style looking kitchen. With my name people must think its going to be.

vanisleevt- I think my tiles are rounded. They are handmade Sonoma Stellar ceramic crackle 2x6. The color is called Krazy Krackle. They were a bit of a splurge at $18sf, but we waited a year and a half so I could afford it!

dianalo- I really did try not to spend so much for the kitchen. The Costa Esmeralda is usually quite pricey, but for some reason my wasn't! Makes me think that it might be coast green. Mine doesn't have a lot of the big veins that CE sometimes has. The sold it to me as CE though and I'm happy with it and the price!
I saved a lot of money on my light fixtures which were not pricey. My electrician is a friend of the family,another family member did the sheetrock and DH did all the demo.

It means so much to me that you call it the heart of the home! I want my family and friends to have a warm place to hang out.

fiddleddd- Congrats on remodeling! I also debated backsplashes, but didn't want to get sick of a busier pattern. I tend to change my mind a lot, LOL! I knew it would be monotone, but can use so accessories to change it up a bit. I love how it turned out, so much prettier in person that pictures.

I love my KA counterdepth fridge. I find it easy to clean, keeps a great temp. The only issue is that you have to make sure you shut the doors. The alarm does go off, but its funny how the kids notice if its open. Mommy!! Shut the fridge door. They might have fixed this issue on the new one. It doesn't bother me at all though. We do have another fridge in the basement for backup soda, water, beer, milk etc. I love how you can stay more organized with the CD. Nothing gets lost in the back.

joan2121- Thanks for the great compliments. Grout choice was hard too, I didn't want it too light. I wanted to see the tile not make it disappear. I'm happy how it turned out. In real life it looks a little darker than the pictures.

red eared slider 86- I would love to be in Renovation Style...wouldn't that be something. I'm just happy to be on GW!

Littlesmiokie- I just looked up jreuters kitchen. Her title is a Sunny and White kitchen. Thank you for grouping me with her. It's a lovely space and she does have some PB stuff too. I usually try to mix things up, but I just kept finding things that work from PB. Maybe I should send it to them. The parson chairs I've had for 12 years and definitely need new slipcovers. I would love something fun, maybe thats the next project.

That's it for now, thanks for looking. I do appreciate it!
Positano

NOTES:

Undercab lights
clipped on: 05.23.2012 at 10:30 am    last updated on: 05.23.2012 at 10:30 am

Finished...cozy soapstone kitchen! Lots of pics.

posted by: fivefootzero on 07.25.2011 at 01:42 pm in Kitchens Forum

Finally finished with the exception of some floor molding that can't be seen.

Old kitchen:

Kitchen 2

Kitchen 1

New kitchen:

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Details:

Cabinets: Decora Hawthorne (no faux pegs) with Pheasant stain
Countertops: Belvedere soapstone from M. Teixeira
Sink: Kraus 23" Single Bowl 16 gauge Stainless Steel Kitchen Sink KBU10
Faucet: Delta Leland single handle with matching soap dispenser
Range: Kitchenaid slide in KGSS907SSS
Microwave: Kitchenaid KHMS2040WSS
Refrigerator: Kitchenaid CD French Door 72" height KFCS22EVMS
Dishwasher: Bosch SHX58E15UC
Backsplash: Home Depot Carrera Marble subway tile with pencil tile accent
Hardware: Amerock BP1590-WID Wrought Iron Dark Pulls and Amerock BP1586-WID Wrought Iron Dark Knobs
Undercabinet lighting: Juno mini-track lights

Still undecided about what to do with the door that leads to our yard. I would like to eventually get a single french door. But right now, the color is basically the color it came (primed). I'm undecided about whether to paint it white or the wall color. I'm also ambivilant about the lighting...the pendants are a bit too southwest feeling for me, but we needed to pick something and be done so this was it.

Thanks to everyone for their help, support and guidance.

NOTES:

see area by frig
clipped on: 05.23.2012 at 09:35 am    last updated on: 05.23.2012 at 09:36 am

Well, it isn't a big reveal...cuz it ain't done...

posted by: melissastar on 05.03.2011 at 05:58 pm in Kitchens Forum

But this is the kitchen that the RTSOG (rotten, thieving sack of garbage) GC has taken over a year NOT to finish.

Please ignore all the still-missing door and drawer fronts, the wires hanging out, the mismatched and wrong color electrical outlets and switchplates, and all the rest of the mess. Clearly, much still needs to be done.

View into dining room

toward the dining room

the peninsula and long counter
DSC01476

The hood is still missing the tile around the bottom and it's being redone in quartersawn oak, rather than the plain-sawn you see here.

DSC01442

main prep area...note the missing drawer and trash door! ERRGGG!!

prep sink.

back door and supplies in an antique pine step-back cabinet. Still trying to decide whether to paint the door the color of the green cabinets (it's the color of the walls now)
back kitchen

The itty bitty adjacent powder room, also newly added...yes, it's just off the kitchen...owners of old houses can't be too picky.

itty bitty powder room

powder room window
powder room window

range and niche

along the long wall (ignore the kitty litter box, please...it will leave, eventually.
kitchen

the scullery/ butler's pantry area...awaiting plate rack and glass doors on the upper cabs, plus a long horizontal cab and crown molding on the top , not to mention the DW panel and under sink pullouts.

Oh and look a bonus...a picture of the "spectacular" urban view out MY kitchen window.

scullery/butler's pantry area

scullery/butler's pantry area

NOTES:

It's a Baltimore row home!
Ann Sacks ceramic basics capriccio
clipped on: 05.09.2012 at 12:17 pm    last updated on: 05.22.2012 at 07:35 pm

Finally finished~photos

posted by: katieob on 04.18.2012 at 09:20 pm in Kitchens Forum

Hi all.

It's been a long year, but we moved in a few weeks ago and we're so thrilled!
Again, I'm so thankful to all the gracious forum members here. I get so much great information and inspiration here and your encouragement with Round 2 has been so helpful!

This is a whole house remodel of a 1940's Cape that we purchased last Spring after selling our house. The kitchen is an addition. We still need to paint the window trim and wall above sink, but who knows when....Also, the black front and back door will have better handle hardware soon, just so you know...

I still seem to have giant pics from photobucket, apologies.

Information
Cabs~ Shaker, inset, BM White Dove, custom (same cabinetmaker)
Counters~ Danby Marble on perimeter and walnut on island
Backsplash~Walker Zanger Gramercy Park in Heirloom White
Sink~Shaw's 30 inch
Faucet~Perrin and Rowe, polished nickel
Pendants~ Circa Lighting Small Yoke, polished nickel
Hardware~All PN. Schaub (thanks kateskouros) for appliances, RH Gilmore pulls, RH Glass knobs, Rejuvenation utility latches, Cliffside Brass icebox latches
Stools~Cottage Maine
Fridge~Liebherr
Range~Viking (mistake, me thinks)
Pot filler~Rohl Swing Arm
DW~ Miele (I think Inspira?)
Fridge Drawers~Kitchen Aid (Love, love,love)
Microwave Drawer~Sharp 24 inch

Thanks for looking !!

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Love the Liebherr fridge, thanks Marthavila.
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Banquette. Will eventually have cushions, etc.
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View from kitchen to front door
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NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 05.19.2012 at 09:00 am    last updated on: 05.19.2012 at 09:01 am

RE: Link or post of Katieob's kitchen pictures? (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: katieob on 10.04.2010 at 02:30 pm in Kitchens Forum

Hi.

Sorry for the delayed response. I haven't been on GW as much lately. Thanks for your kind words. I think mine is a "coming soon" kitchen on the FKB. Here are some photos that won't show in the thread anymore. Don't know why. Any questions, I'd be happy to help. Good luck!
Katie

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NOTES:

storage for coats, shoes
clipped on: 05.19.2012 at 08:55 am    last updated on: 05.19.2012 at 08:56 am

RE: Belvedere soapstone question (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: laxsupermom on 05.16.2012 at 07:57 am in Kitchens Forum

Have you tried a beeswax / mineral oil combo? That's what I use on my soapstone. It's easy to make. I bought a block of unscented beeswax from the craft store with one of the ubiquitous 40% off coupons, melted it down with 2 bottles of mineral oil in a heavy saucepan, poured it into a lidded container that I keep under my sink. I wax my counters maybe once every 6 months or so. I keep a rag in the container. I rub the wax all over the counters then buff it off after 10 minutes. I use the same stuff on my butcher block counters.

NOTES:

OILING SOAPSTONE
clipped on: 05.16.2012 at 01:55 pm    last updated on: 05.16.2012 at 01:55 pm

RE: Help! How much space is between your upper cabinets and count (Follow-Up #15)

posted by: buehl on 06.25.2011 at 03:16 pm in Kitchens Forum

Has the light rail on the bottom of your upper cabinets been installed yet? If not, once it's installed you will have the 18" you expected.

To help you and others when determining the distance b/w your finished countertop and the bottom of your base cabinets (including light rail)...


First, 18" is the "standard" backsplash height...regardless of the reasons why, it's still the standard.

How this affects your kitchen....

  • Refrigerator and other tall cabinet heights...Because wall cabinets are meant to be mounted at a standard height, cabinet manufacturers take this into account when designing tall cabinets. Tall cabinets are designed to be the same height as the installed wall cabinets so the tops all line up. When you change the height a wall cabinet is installed at, it affects cabinet top alignments. (Note: With custom and some semi-custom cabinets, this is a non-issue b/c the cabinetmaker/manufacturer can adjust for this.)
    • With the refrigerator you can usually mount the upper cabinet a little lower OR order a shorter upper cabinet, but be sure you don't make the alcove any shorter than 72" tall b/c newer refrigerators are 70" to 72" tall (and seem to get taller each year!)
    • With other tall cabinets like oven cabinets and pantry cabinets, they're a standard height and designed so they're the same height as the wall cabinets when those wall cabinets are installed 18" above a 36" high counter. If you have custom cabinets, this may not be an issue b/c your cabinetmaker can adjust the cabinet heights. But, if you are using stock or even some semi-custom cabinets, you cannot change the height. You can often get taller cabinets for use w/36" or 42" tall wall cabinets, but not shorter for 30" mounted lower. But, even those that are taller are also adjusted based on standard wall cabinet heights + an 18" backsplash height.

  • Small appliance height...Small appliance manufacturers often design their products to meet this 18" standard...for example, my KA stand mixer (bowl lift) is around 17" and many coffeemakers and blenders are just short of 18". So, you need to be sure you have room under the cabinets + light rail to fit those appliances.


Small appliances...

Keep in mind that if you're using an appliance on your counter, you must be sure you have room under the base cabinets to move that appliance around easily. Don't, for example, tell yourself you're only going to use it in front of your upper cabinets so you don't need to worry about its fit. In reality, you will be moving things around on your counter while you work and most likely your appliance will be moved under the cabinets at some point. You don't want to tear your light rail off or damage it (or the cabinets).

Also remember that "standard" upper cabinets are 12" deep + 1" for the door...so they stick out 13" over your counter...leaving you only 12" or so of workspace in front of the upper cabinets...not much room to work in by itself! (If you have deeper upper cabinets...say 15", there's even less counter frontage in front of your upper cabinets...3" less, so 9".)


Vertical workspace...

Another consideration is vertical work space for you and your family. If anyone in your family is tall, you want to be careful not to make the backsplash area so short that it makes the work area cramped vertically.


Measuring for your minimum backsplash height...

So, how do you determine the minimum backsplash height for your kitchen and how high to install the upper cabinets?

  1. Measure all your small appliances and anything else you'll be using on the counter, If they have a lid, measure with the lid open (i.e., the tallest the appliance would ever be). Not just what's planned for the space, but what could potentially be used....stand mixer, coffeemaker, blender, food processor, breadmaker, etc. For a stand mixer, measure when the head is tilted up as well.

  2. Take the tallest measurement and add 1/4" to 1/2" (I recommend 1/2")

    Why did you add 1/4" to 1/2"? It's to give you some "wiggle" room in case everything isn't perfect...you may have slight differences in stone thickness or even how the cabinets and/or light rail was installed. It will also keep you from scratching the cabinets/light rail w/the top of the appliance (or vice versa!)


  3. This is the minimum height you will need for your backsplash

    But wait, you're not done! To be sure you have that space, you need to determine how high off the counter to mount your upper cabinets...


  4. Determine how tall your light rail will be. [Light rail is the molding that goes on the bottom of the upper cabinets that hides under cabinet lights, unfinished or differently-finished cabinet bottoms, and Plugmold (if you have it).]

  5. Now, add this to the backslash height from #3

  6. This is the distance above the finished counter your upper cabinets must be installed.

  7. Usually, though, your countertop has not yet been installed, so you will need to do one of two things...

    • If you will have standard height cabinets & counter, then add 36" to the distance in #6
      • This is the distance off the floor the upper cabinets should be installed
      • If you have lower (or higher) cabinets + counter, use the finished height you are installing instead of 36"

    • If you cannot measure off the floor b/c your base cabinets are already installed, then add 1-1/2" to the distance in #6
      • This is the distance off the top of the base cabinets (with no counter material) the upper cabinets should be installed

    • Note: If you are using countertop material thinner or thicker than 3cm or so, you will need to adjust the finished counter height measurement by the difference b/w the standard 3cm or so and your height. [If you will have a thicker counter, add the difference to the measurement in this section; if thinner, subtract the difference.]


Please note that this recommendation has nothing to do w/upper cabinets that are installed down to the counter. Cabinets of this type have no backsplash b/w them and the counter, so the above does not apply.


Lowering wall cabinets/shorter backsplash...

If you lower your upper cabinets a couple of inches, how much more can you realistically reach? The depth of one or two plates? What makes more sense is to plan your storage so that frequently used items are on the bottom shelf (or in drawers in your base cabinets) and progressively less-used items move up the wall cabinets.

Another thing that will make it easier to get into upper cabinets and makes more sense than lowering them (for the reasons above) is to make them a little deeper...say 15". Not only will it bring things in front 3" closer to you, but those 3" add a surprising amount of extra storage...and allows you to store platters and larger dinner plates in your cabinets when 12" isn't quite deep enough.


In the end, it's up to you and your family...do what will work best for you. But, if your cabinetmaker (or anyone else reading this thread considering a shorter backsplash) are going against a standard or guideline, be sure you're doing it with all the information so you can make an informed decision.


Good luck!

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clipped on: 05.09.2012 at 03:02 pm    last updated on: 05.09.2012 at 03:02 pm

RE: Pictures of an almost finised kitchen...just needs the frosti (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: abfabamy on 05.06.2012 at 07:06 pm in Kitchens Forum

Thanks! Yes, this DIY has been a satisfying labor of love.

Texasgal47, we did put the microwave, as well as a countertop/toaster oven in a cabinet. We had the end cabinet and the appliance garage made 18" deep to accomodate both appliances. So far, it has works out better than I could hope for. It's just my husband and I. We mostly use the kitcen in the evening after work. I was worried about the doors having to be open, but that hasn't been a problem at all. For the amount of time we use either item, not having to look at them when not in use has been wonderful!

Uploaded from the Photobucket Android App

NOTES:

micro and toaster hider!
clipped on: 05.08.2012 at 02:50 pm    last updated on: 05.08.2012 at 02:50 pm

A kitchen was born...

posted by: Julia_K on 05.06.2012 at 09:18 am in Kitchens Forum

I am not a regular poster, but I've been reading this forum a lot for a few months while doing my kitchen renovation. I had a few posts with questions and everyone has been very helpful. So, thank you! My kitchen is finally done and I've been using it for the last month. There are many things that I wanted, but I couldn't get due to various reasons. The size of the kitchen did not allow for double wall ovens and for a prep sink. I also wanted long wall pantry, but we ran into a problem and couldn't get it. My biggest worry was the floor. We could not change the floor because it runs all the way through the hall and into the entrance, so the job of changing it would be too expensive. So, I was worried about white original tiles clashing with white kitchen cabinets, but I think everything worked out fine.

Here's the old kitchen:

Photo from mls listing

Before we moved in

Demolition

New kitchen

I upholstered the chairs since I couldn't find counter stools with green seat. I also spent a month prepping the butcher block. Sanding, oiling, polishing, waxing. It's ready to be used for cutting, but I haven't done it yet because it looks so pretty.

It took us a long time to decide on the stove, but in the end we chose Wolf

I really wanted a green KitchenAid mixer, but I couldn't justify buying a new one when the one I have works perfectly, so I added some stickers to it. Everyone seems to like it :)

I adore my apron sink!!!! I think it's my favourite part of the kitchen

I wanted to have tall pantry on this wall, but the design did not work

Toe kick drawers

and one more toe kick drawer

A few details:

Pantry near the fridge

Lazy susan in one corner

Spice shelf

And we also put a little desk area on the opposite side of the kitchen where a dining table used to be

NOTES:

ikea
clipped on: 05.07.2012 at 09:46 am    last updated on: 05.07.2012 at 09:46 am

RE: Range hood not removing cooking smell (Follow-Up #16)

posted by: trailrunner on 04.07.2012 at 09:55 pm in Kitchens Forum

I hope you will look at the Tradewind hoods/liners. To answer the cleaning question. It takes about 5-10 min a week. I do it every Sunday. i remove the 3 baffles, and spray them with full strength grease cutter, I use Awesome from Walmart, then I use a pastry brush to quickly go over all the baffles...we have a fair amount of brown residue that accumulates in the baffles. I then rinse them in hot water and dry them off with a towel and replace in the hood.

The only time the hood liner itself has ever had to be wiped out is if I go longer than a week on cleaning the baffles. Then DH wipes out the upper unit inside with a cloth that is sprayed with the grease cutter. Takes a few extra minutes. Rarely much in there.

That is it...easy peasy. i will post a pic below of the baffles. They do a great job...what you want is greasy messy baffles every single week :) If your baffles are clean...you aren't cooking or they aren't working ! c

after and before we put up the utensil/pot rack..LOVE the rack from Lee Valley !

Caldera cook top using the Maslin pan and Le Creuset, Maslin pan has polenta cooking and Le Creuset is soup

Photobucket

NOTES:

rack and vent
clipped on: 05.04.2012 at 07:46 pm    last updated on: 05.04.2012 at 07:47 pm

RE: Range hood not removing cooking smell (Follow-Up #19)

posted by: trailrunner on 04.08.2012 at 10:41 am in Kitchens Forum

klingon...the whole wood unit that you see holds the baffles/lights/electric control...it is 8" top to bottom so the actual Tradewind liner is about 6" tall. The reason it is so slim is that our blower is on the roof...as dseng says...we have an external blower. You can indeed get a Tradewind hood that has the blower in it and not have the external blower. We did it so we could have the least noise...we have an inline silencer , since we wanted a lot of CFM. You should be fine w/o going the external route. Also I don't have any idea about the 10" vs 18" since I don't have a hood/blower all in one unit. Good Luck ! c

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clipped on: 05.04.2012 at 07:43 pm    last updated on: 05.04.2012 at 07:43 pm

RE: Range hood not removing cooking smell (Follow-Up #23)

posted by: trailrunner on 05.03.2012 at 04:24 pm in Kitchens Forum

hey sj..that is OK I know that we all get busy and lose threads. I would have to go and get the invoice out of my records but ...there were neoprene silencer rings that were extra and then the duct work which was purchased locally. The wood surround was made by my cabinet maker. After my GC built the framework for it. He simply placed the paintable cabinet material over the wooden base. Here is a pic.

new hood frame

It really isn't all that many pieces. Did you look at the detailed info on Tradewind liners ? That is where I found the diagrams and details of what I would need and how I put my order together. Let me know if you need more help. You can also email me through GW. c

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clipped on: 05.04.2012 at 07:42 pm    last updated on: 05.04.2012 at 07:42 pm

RE: Banquette Bench: CKGM and Shelayne -- pics please! (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: shelayne on 03.29.2012 at 10:36 am in Kitchens Forum

Hi BalTra, here is a shot of mine. It is three 36" W X 15"H, 24" deep cabinets, cut to a depth of 22.5" (I think), topped with Lagan butcher block and cushions. The filler is a piece on each end, as the bench is almost 10' long. I originally wanted it to be moveable, but DH wanted it built-in. Since he was the one installing it, he won.;) He built a low platform for it. The cushions bring the height over the height of the chairs, but it has not been a problem for us. If we wanted to, we could remove the cushions, and only have the wood top, as we finished that with Waterlox, and it would be the same height as the dining chairs.

banquette

And so you can see what I mean about lots of storage, here is a pic with the drawers open (that white thing in the middle drawer is a big bread machine):
Photobucket

The "Costco" snack drawer is one that is constantly accessed. We call it the "Costco drawer" because it generally has those huge Costco snack bags, popcorn, store bought cookies, and like items.
Photobucket

We are very happy with how our banquette bench turned out.

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clipped on: 03.29.2012 at 12:12 pm    last updated on: 03.29.2012 at 12:13 pm

RE: Soapstone installed and oiled (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: mamadadapaige on 03.28.2012 at 11:19 pm in Kitchens Forum

I saw a gorgeous soap stone countertop by Bucks County at the AD show this past weekend. It had a beautiful integrated sink.

Your counters and kitchen look fantastic.

posting the pic to make it a little easier for people to ogle your countertops!

First look at the new soapstone, Uploaded with Snapbucket

NOTES:

with "franklin edge"
clipped on: 03.29.2012 at 11:19 am    last updated on: 03.29.2012 at 11:19 am

RE: Seeking images of modest or quirky kitchens... (Follow-Up #29)

posted by: boxerpups on 03.05.2010 at 09:27 am in Kitchens Forum

Here are a few I love.
~boxer

Brazilian kitchen

Carnival

My favorite. Beautiful and fresh

Very earthy South African Kitchen

Beach Mag

Concrete Kitchen

AZ Central

Kutch Craft

NOTES:

wallpaper in the third photo
and the flood of blue/green!
clipped on: 01.16.2012 at 01:25 pm    last updated on: 01.16.2012 at 01:26 pm

In Progress with lots-o-pics. What say you??

posted by: BalTra on 12.30.2011 at 08:52 pm in Kitchens Forum

I am happy to report I have a functional kitchen!

The photos below don't quite show how open and welcoming the space feels.

The IKEA cabs are assembled and installed, love the drawers and the soft close. My deep square sink and grohe faucet (from Costco) are perfect: no splashing, room for my largest pots and pans. Induction rocks. Open pantry working well. Lots and lots of light. Fridge is small, but perfect size for our needs. Cork feels great in my ~60 degree house. horizontal uppers provide great access to glasses and storage containers, extra cookbooks.

The only thing I don't love is my pendant light choice. Just doesn't fit somehow. Not yet sure what bothers me about them.

What is left? Countertop, order cabinet/drawer fronts, backsplash (probably sheet of glass), back of the peninsula (have no clue, other than panels to match the cabs), hardware, dining room light fixture:

From In Progress Kitchen

Walnut, slab, grainmatched from Scherrs.

Hardware I will probably choose (in satin nickel)

From In Progress Kitchen

But I really like these better - think too busy?

From In Progress Kitchen

Countertop, Icestone Sky Pearl. Torquoise, white and the crushed oyster shells pick up the browns nicely I think. Still, anyone vote for something more bold? (given the torquoise of the uppers - see below)

From In Progress Kitchen

Dining Light Nelson from Room and Board

From In Progress Kitchen

I'm ready move forward with these materials choices, but very much want your FRANK, HONEST, BRUTAL opinions.

What would you do differently?

Here are the in progress photos:
Destruction

From In Progress Kitchen

From In Progress Kitchen

Better!:
From In Progress Kitchen

Wall color is SW "Rainwashed" (thanks to you guys)

From In Progress Kitchen

From In Progress Kitchen

My old hoosier on the right, horizontal uppers and pendant lights installed

From In Progress Kitchen

From In Progress Kitchen

Sample woods on the temp plywood counter. Haven't ruled out using cherry to surround the uppers, walnut for the lowers

From In Progress Kitchen

WHEW!
You are still here and reading/looking!

So, what stays?
What goes?
What to add?
-->re: horizontals - how to integrate? Add another? Open shelves below?
-->KitchenAid OTR micro/convect/vent. Haven't installed yet. Having a hard time bringing myself to do it. It's huge and not so lovely.

Please be ruthless and direct!

Oh, and not much cash left . . . budget-minded suggestions especially appreciated.

Here is a link that might be useful: Most recent collective thoughts

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clipped on: 01.15.2012 at 11:09 am    last updated on: 01.15.2012 at 11:09 am

RE: free-standing glass block backsplash? (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: xoldtimecarpenter on 01.02.2012 at 10:06 pm in Kitchens Forum

How about just a glass back splash? Glass block is about 3" thick, do you want to give up 3" of counter top? Glass can be used very creatively, and can be great decoration. Pattern glass was used in the illustrated back splash for an interesting effect.

Paint the wall the color you want. Have your glass shop come out and measure for glass panels. Install them with clear silicon, just 5 dabs per panel will do it " one in each corner and one in the middle.

We have even gotten creative on occasion and install LED lights behind the glass -- it's great, shadowless counter top lighting.

If you want just a 4" splash, have the top edge of the glass polished so no one gets cut.

NOTES:

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clipped on: 01.03.2012 at 01:42 pm    last updated on: 01.03.2012 at 01:42 pm

Pathetic dog update---year three

posted by: handymac on 09.13.2011 at 03:04 pm in Pets Forum

Three years ago we adopted a whippet mix from a local kill shelter. We have a GSD chow mix male that I also rescued because he was uncontrollably aggressive. He is now totally controllable, but was still a bit dog aggressive, so I had to be sure he would accept a new dog---since one dog does not a pack make.

We actually took Max(the male) to the shelter and brought females(our choice) out for his approval/disapproval. Molly was his pick. She was less than a year old(shelter/vets estimate) and literally scared to immobility. In all my years of working for a vet and handling animals, I have never seen a dog so totally scared of everything.

The folks at the shelter were astonished we picked her---she was skin and bones, was filthy(would not move to do her business) and so scared she could no longer shiver.

But, Max indicated she was his pick of the four we tried, so home she came.

Turns out the weight loss was because of allergies---lamb and rice diet put weight on so rapidly she was overweight in less than two weeks.

Her self esteem took much longer. She was so unbalanced, Max totally ignored her for a week. She did not move from the place in the dining room we put her initially for two days. I literally picked her up, took her outside and cleaned her off after she eliminated in place.

After two days, she timidly got up and began exploring the room she was in. The next day, she began to venture out into the rest of the house. Max now began to pay attention to her and helped her search and explore.

Any unknown/loud noise caused a panic and she would flatten out on the floor/ground.

Max and we simply ignored any of these episodes. And I mean ignored. No eye contact, no voice communication, no comfort at all. Continued normal activities. The only attention she got was when she acted 'normal'. She started playing after about three weeks. It was obvious she had no dog experience---did not know how to play/interact with Max at all.

Picture a 75 pound GSD mix that was once a very dangerous dog because he had no control and would get so aggressive he would bite himself. I rehabilitated him and he is now rehabilitating a dog. The things he allowed Molly to do to him amazed me.

Picture a grandfather letting three grandkids jump all over him, pull his ears, run into him, pile on top of him and more. That was what came to mind when Max taught Molly to play.

Fast forward three years. Molly can no longer do many of the things she once did to Max. She is now a fairly well balanced pack member, subordinant to Max. Max goes out/in the door first(after humans), and corrects her when she gets too rambunctious.

I can now make vocal corrections when she does something wrong(mainly barking too much) without her dissolving in fear. She stops the unwanted behavior and come running happily to me.

I have rehabilitated aggressive dogs before. I had never tried a really unbalanced fearful dog. And certainly not one of the intense disturbances Molly had.

She still has episodes of what I call flashbacks, and we still have to be careful of when we give her affection---so as not to do so during a flashback episode. Those episodes are more fearful looks and attitudes now---and a good tousel and happy "Pretty Girl!" and redirection of attention usually reverses those moments.

My point is this. Dogs, like people, sometimes have bad experiences. We humans are still exploring ways to help people overcome bad experiences. Dogs have that covered. Max showed Molly how to act and how to behave. I simply followed his lead and did what I learned dogs do. Treated Molly like a dog, and made sure the bad experiences disappeared---and most importantly, never allowed her to remember them.

Today. Molly keeps the trash trucks, school buses, and certain motorcycles from attacking her yard. She has yet to catch a squirrel, but surprisingly is a decent mole catcher. She chases and catches prey(soccer balls I kick for her) and devils Max on occasion.

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clipped on: 12.27.2011 at 09:20 pm    last updated on: 12.27.2011 at 09:20 pm

RE: Design Around #7 Vict./Queen Anne. Lurkers comment. (Follow-Up #64)

posted by: marcolo on 12.08.2011 at 06:14 pm in Kitchens Forum

OK. I'm not going to finish this since the thread is getting a little long in the tooth. But you get the idea.

Photobucket

There is another aspect to Victorian kitchens we haven't explored yet--they've been around since Victorian times. Which means they've accumulated decades of life, design, renovation and accumulation.

This is kind of a Walton's Victorian, or maybe Sookie's grandmother's house from True Blood. A house that isn't a preserved Victorian but one that has been lived in over the years, presenting with a lot of elements from the '20s through the '60s.

So:

Marmo floors
Laminate counters (I couldn't find a true turquoise like I wanted)
Vintage elements from many decades, scrambled up

NOTES:

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clipped on: 12.25.2011 at 04:52 pm    last updated on: 12.25.2011 at 04:52 pm

RE: for all the marble subway haters (Follow-Up #28)

posted by: lavender_lass on 12.15.2011 at 02:20 am in Kitchens Forum

Very striking, but it feels more like a stage set than an actual kitchen...but I'm still in love with Marcolo's white and turquoise kitchen, from the last design exercise :)

NOTES:

search for this kitchen
clipped on: 12.25.2011 at 04:46 pm    last updated on: 12.25.2011 at 04:46 pm

RE: Design around this #9, version 3 (pulling it all together) (Follow-Up #21)

posted by: ICFgreen on 12.24.2011 at 02:54 pm in Kitchens Forum

LWO, thanks for the clarification. I was excited to see elements that appeal to me, and then thrown by the support for it. We do have a new build, will a more modern slant throughout (of course, I wouldn't have known that unless I was on GW. I don't really have a design sense, I just know what I like). So, I will sit back and learn from the experts :-)

Kellienoelle, if you are interested in the tempered glass backsplash, we had considered it before finding ours, and we were told to check with auto detailing places for the best deal.

NOTES:

Sourcing glass sheet
clipped on: 12.24.2011 at 03:18 pm    last updated on: 12.24.2011 at 03:19 pm

RE: Big Glass Door Cabinets...All the way up or not? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: dianalo on 12.19.2011 at 11:50 am in Kitchens Forum

I love the look of taller cabs and the all glass will elongate the lines. I am sure there may be times that the split could work as well. It would depend on context and the style of the kitchen. If your kd could do mock ups both ways in your proposed layout, it would really help.
Of course, I really love some open shelves, esp ones up high on a tall wall and that would eliminate some of your problem ;)

I have this one saved as an example:

Photobucket

NOTES:

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clipped on: 12.20.2011 at 02:41 pm    last updated on: 12.20.2011 at 02:42 pm

RE: Please show me your open shelving (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: motodetroit on 12.12.2011 at 08:19 am in Kitchens Forum

Hi, I'm also planning on Elmwood shelves. What depth are you using? Etsy has some nice hand forged brackets that I thought might look nice with them. My taste leans to the plain- jane side of things.

Here is a link that might be useful: Forged bracket

NOTES:

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clipped on: 12.13.2011 at 01:24 pm    last updated on: 12.13.2011 at 01:24 pm

knobs/pulls made in USA list

posted by: lynn85 on 09.29.2011 at 10:57 am in Kitchens Forum

I have been searching for knobs/pulls for my cabinets and would really like to use those made in USA (I don't want to be touching these several times a day and not know if they contain lead from China). I have found a few manufacturers who make them here was just wondering if anyone else has found others they could add?

These sites all have knobs made in the USA, SOME of them also have knobs made elsewhere, you just have to watch or call them to confirm.

http://www.usa-knobs.com/usa-made-laurey-cimarron-collection.html

http://www.colonialbronze.com/

http://www.schaubandcompany.com/index.html

http://www.mountainstreamforge.com

http://www.horton-brasses.com/

www.te-ma.com

http://www.anneathome.com/content/index.cfm?fuseaction=showContent&contentID=47&navID=43

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clipped on: 12.08.2011 at 12:51 pm    last updated on: 12.08.2011 at 12:51 pm

RE: What Kind of Food Storage Containers Do You Like? (Follow-Up #27)

posted by: mcmjilly on 12.06.2011 at 12:18 am in Kitchens Forum

I forgot to mention that for "ingredient storage" (flours, sugars, rice, beans, polenta, oats, etc), I use Cambro containers that I buy at a restaurant supply place. They are big and square and sturdy and hold 2, 4, 6, 8 quarts. They stack nicely in the pantry. I love them.

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clipped on: 12.06.2011 at 10:24 pm    last updated on: 12.06.2011 at 10:24 pm

Getting rid of upper cabinets

posted by: tadhg555 on 09.16.2011 at 06:15 pm in Kitchens Forum

We are just starting to plan our kitchen remodel, which will involve totally gutting the existing space and bumping out about 8 feet for a breakfast room.

Here's my issue: I have never liked upper cabinets - I find them awkward and frustrating since the counters underneath them become wasted space where small appliances go to die.

I'd like to get rid of them and move all storage below the counters and beneath a new island we have planned. We're also planning a floor-to-ceiling pantry wall along the new bump-out.

I know that it's probably just basic math to figure out if I'll have adequate storage space in our new configuration, but I wanted to check with the GW folks about their experiences.

Have any of you removed upper cabinets, and if so how has it turned out for you? Any unexpected issues?

Thanks.

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clipped on: 11.24.2011 at 02:16 pm    last updated on: 11.24.2011 at 02:16 pm

RE: Glass backsplash (not glass tile) Questions - thanks! (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: mindstorm on 03.27.2009 at 08:22 pm in Kitchens Forum

leaf29, I have tempered sheet glass the length of my kitchen as backsplash, including behind the stove. Not in my opinion a pain to keep clean at all since it is just a single sheet so wipes down very easily. I use the same microfiber that I use to clean the granite counter. My hood has lights under it but I don't notice any glare particularly. I have the back painted affair too - got my glass from GlasskoteUSA.

Here are a couple of pics - you can tell if you think it is messy or if the glare is overwhelming:

Long view albeit a peculiar angle:
Photobucket

Front on looking at the glass behind the cooktop:
Photobucket

My pictures are here if you want more shots of the glass, glare, reflection, etc.

NOTES:

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clipped on: 11.22.2011 at 04:38 pm    last updated on: 11.22.2011 at 04:38 pm

RE: Glass backsplash (not glass tile) Questions - thanks! (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: palimpsest on 03.27.2009 at 04:56 pm in Kitchens Forum

I have an entire backsplash that is one sheet of glass. It is painted the wall color on the back, not clear. Clear will cast shadows on the wall behind. It is Starfire glass (ultra clear so it does not give the wall color a green cast.)

It goes behind the stove and sink, it has not been a problem.

It will reflect the bulbs of the undercounter lighting from certain low angles. Not when you are in the kitchen.

I used a regular piece of glass only behind the range in a client's house and it looks green, compared to the real wallcolor. She is messy, but it only looks dirty when its really dirty.

Mine is held in place by close fit and clear caulk, the client's is held in by two mirror clips that tuck in the space next to the underside of the rangehood,since it is Only behind the stove.

NOTES:

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clipped on: 11.22.2011 at 04:37 pm    last updated on: 11.22.2011 at 04:37 pm

RE: What to do with this small Galley Kitchen? (Follow-Up #19)

posted by: Ginny20 on 11.17.2011 at 11:31 am in Kitchens Forum

I love my Home Depot version Cree LED recessed lights. I think they are now down to $25 each (I paid $40 in August). You use them in regular ED cans, like Halos. They are dimmable, cool, efficient, and have a very pleasing color. I found out about them on the Lighting Forum. The Lighting Forum is wonderful.

If you love River white, you should have it. One of the very true things I learned on this forum is that you should choose a granite that "makes your heart sing." Something like Colonial Cream, however, has some more golden tones in it that might go well with the color of the cabs. How about Yellow River? Can you bring samples in and live with them with the cabs? My ideas changed when I did that. Be careful that you don't get competing undertones in your neutrals. The cabs look like yellow undertones. Try to avoid anything that reads with a pink undertone.

I do like the cab style for a small space.

If it were me, I'd choose the counter first, then a BS, then a floor. In my small galley, I took the granite up the full backsplash, but you may not want to invest that if you aren't staying long.

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clipped on: 11.21.2011 at 10:42 pm    last updated on: 11.21.2011 at 10:42 pm

RE: Love beadboard wallpaper - see my kitchen cabinets (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: ds945 on 11.06.2011 at 05:56 pm in Kitchens Forum

Thanks! I primed the ends of the kitchen cupboards. Then I papered it. It hung beautifully and painted like a dream. Here is the source for the paper. A roll did 3 sides of my island, my tall cupboard with built in microwave and and one upper cabinet. They had a cheaper paper, but the ridges weren't as nice, so I sprang for the $5 extra. It would make a great cheap backsplash.

Here is a link that might be useful: Source of paper

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clipped on: 11.06.2011 at 08:10 pm    last updated on: 11.06.2011 at 08:11 pm

RE: White subway or color to go with granite cherry cabinets (Follow-Up #12)

posted by: kittenkat_2002 on 10.26.2011 at 09:45 am in Kitchens Forum

tharonk - I have cherry cabinets, soapstone and white subway tile. Thought the photo might help. I find myself wishing I had done marble subway tiles.
Photobucket

NOTES:

marble AND soapstone with cherry cabs
clipped on: 10.27.2011 at 01:30 pm    last updated on: 10.27.2011 at 01:31 pm

RE: Please post pictures of kitchen sinks without a window (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: trailrunner on 10.20.2011 at 10:54 am in Kitchens Forum

We have no windows in our interior kitchen. We added a skylight over the alcove that houses the Frigidaire Twins and we added windows to the adjacent sunroom. It has helped but the space does require plenty of work lights...we use the undercounter and the task lighting at each zone all the time.

The art work is an original by May Kugler, a family friend from La Place LA. Hope this helps your decision on designs.

Photobucket

Doonie I just love your kitchen...c

NOTES:

over sink photos
open shelves!
love the light on artwork
clipped on: 10.27.2011 at 01:25 pm    last updated on: 10.27.2011 at 01:26 pm

RE: Please post pictures of kitchen sinks without a window (Follow-Up #17)

posted by: numbersjunkie on 10.23.2011 at 12:15 pm in Kitchens Forum

Mine is against an inside wall. We use the cabinet above for medicines, and other odds & ends. Here it is before backsplash..
Photobucket

and after....
Photobucket

NOTES:

colors, over sink decor
clipped on: 10.27.2011 at 01:24 pm    last updated on: 10.27.2011 at 01:25 pm

RE: Need some input on my galley kitchen (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: buehl on 04.30.2011 at 03:28 am in Kitchens Forum

"...I cook by myself and have two small children..."

You will soon be a 2- or 3-cook family! As your children (very quickly) grow up, you will probably be teaching them how to cook, bake, grind, and cleanup. I recommend not planning for a one-cook kitchen. [Speaking from experience...they'll probably start "helping" by the time they're 4 or 5 and be a real help by the time they're 7 or 8.]

It's rarely a good idea to plan a kitchen around a family of small children where the adults do all the cooking & cleaning. Rather, plan for the future...older kids, tweens, & teens helping out along with their friends. Those years will not only be much longer, but a kitchen designed for older children will also work well with all adults and, later, grown kids + grandchildren! [Even if you have many more children, your current children will be helping out in the kitchen in no time at all!]


I like the open end on both sides of the aisle...it will give you and others room to move about the kitchen doing various tasks.

I do, though, agree that the aisle b/w the two runs looks rather narrow, but w/o actual dimensions it's difficult to say for certain. In particular, look at the aisle b/w the refrigerator and island...it barely looks wide enough to open the refrigerator. I strongly recommend a french-door refrigerator for this narrow an aisle. [If the aisle is 36" b/w the counter on the island and the counter along the wall, then you will have close to a 30" aisle b/w the refrigerator and island counter...b/c even most counter depth refrigerators are around 30" deep when you count the doors and handles.]

Not only are your DW & oven doors in conflict as was mentioned previously, but your DW is also going to block access to the refrigerator from the range and counters on the right.

You also have all three zones crammed into one small portion of your kitchen...Cooking Zone where the range is, Cleanup Zone where the sink and DW are, and Prep Zone where there's water and proximity to the range...the same end of the island with the DW.

See...

rosieo's Kitchen  zones


...


Are you open to other ideas? Here are a couple...


rosieo's Kitchen #1


rosieo's Kitchen #2


With Zones...notice how the zones are spread out a little more, allowing more than one person to work in the kitchen at one time. These layouts will also work well with just one person cooking or cleaning up.


rosieo's Kitchen #1 zones


rosieo's Kitchen #2 zones

NOTES:

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clipped on: 05.13.2011 at 10:56 pm    last updated on: 05.13.2011 at 10:56 pm