Clippings by ATekk

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Help interpreting Logan Labs report

posted by: ATekk on 09.06.2012 at 10:19 am in Lawn Care Forum

I put this in another thread I started but didn't get any response so figured I would separate out to try to get some more attention.

I would really appreciate how to fix my lawn. Clearly I need to drop some lime to help with the pH and I believe that would also help with the Calcium and Magnesium?

What else should I be doing between now and the end of the year?

FYI - I am replanting both the front and back yards with a Lesco KBG blend. Had Perrenial Rye that looked beautiful but lost a lot of it this year due to drought/grubs so just decided to start over while it was convenient.

Thanks again for all your help.

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clipped on: 09.11.2012 at 10:09 am    last updated on: 09.11.2012 at 10:09 am

Cornmeal for Brown Patch Disease Works

posted by: bettyfb on 05.30.2009 at 09:01 am in Organic Lawn Care Forum

Hi,

I just wanted to share that I had Brown Patch Disease on my lawn for the past 10 years and even resorted to trying Daconil on the lawn last summer.

This year I decided to try only organic on the lawn. One member from Texas, I forget his name, suggested I use nothing but Cornmeal monthly as a preventative through the end of May. I have followed his suggestions. This month I have applied the cornmeal to my 3,000 sq foot lawn every three weeks along with Dried Molasses.

This day I am happy to report that my Fescue lawn has no Brown Patch Disease, and the grass is so long today, I have to mow again for the second time this week. In the past, by the end of May, the lawn was in pretty bad shape from the Brown Patch Disease and to me it is nothing short of miraculous. Also note we have had a lot of rain this spring in Louisville, Ky.--which normally makes the Brown Patch worse. Let me also say that this spring my two Dogwood Trees have had more blooms than ever before in the past 15 years, since I planted them. I started using Soybean Meal last year and I love that stuff too.

For the one in Texas, who suggested monthly treatments of nothing but Cornmeal as a preventative for Brown Patch Disease---thank you again!!!

Betty

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clipped on: 03.08.2012 at 05:04 pm    last updated on: 09.04.2012 at 04:07 pm

Heroes and Villains

posted by: a2zmom on 08.27.2012 at 01:02 pm in Perennials Forum

This was a difficult gardening season weather wise for may of us. What were your stand out performers this year? What were the duds?

I am going to discus my newest garden, which I planted least year. This garden is yellow, orange and gold and many of the plants were new to me.

Heroes:
Helenium 'Mardi Gras' - this started blooming late June and is still going. No floppiness, a bee magnet, no mildew. The only downside is I do between 50 - 100 deadheads a day. Of course, that just shows how many blooms the plants produce.

Kniphofia 'Alcazar' - this started budding in mid June and is still blooming now. A real show stopper, this plant gets asked about more than any other plant I own.

Agastache mexicana 'Acapulco Orange' - I planted three small plants last year that were being sold as annuals. This is now a huge grouping that was covered in flowers starting early July and hasn't stopped since. The leaves smell citrus-y when you brush by. Deer don't eat it. Bees and butterflies love it.

Plants were just beginning to flower:

Villains:
Viola cornuta 'Chantreyland' - even with faithful watering, the plants dried up and died. The same thing happened with different violas last year.

Trollius chinensis 'Golden Queen' - the plants haven't flowered or put on new growth. Suggestions welcome on how to make this plant happier.

Alcea rugosa - I've gown hollyhocks in the past, so I'm no stranger to their problems but this year was particularly brutal. Severe rust, Japanese bettle damage, leaf miners and a lot of the buds turned black prior to opening (i'm not sure if that was due to rust or something else. I've never seen that before.) All in all, a miserable year for my hollyhocks.

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clipped on: 08.27.2012 at 04:56 pm    last updated on: 08.27.2012 at 04:56 pm

Best way to get large quantity of spring bulbs?

posted by: ATekk on 08.01.2012 at 10:47 am in Perennials Forum

Hi all,

So I am planning on planting a large quantity of spring bulbs this fall. I live on a corner lot of a pretty heavy foot traffic area and would like to have tulips wrap all the way around my house. I think this would be a pretty nice sight in the spring along with the cherry trees blooming.

Does anyone have good recommendations on where I can buy larger quantities of spring bulbs for "cheap"? I usually wait for the fall sales from websites like Santa Rosa or Bluestone to stock up on perennials but I highly doubt they discount their bulbs as much as they do the perennials (obviously the need to do so isn't there). I haven't counted yet but I am guessing I will need somewhere in the ballpark of ~200. If it is too pricey I may just have to break up the planting into a couple years.

Thanks for your help!

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clipped on: 08.03.2012 at 01:14 pm    last updated on: 08.03.2012 at 01:14 pm

RE: Lawn Maintenance Schedule (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: ATekk on 02.03.2012 at 01:10 pm in Lawn Care Forum

So here is the post that I was referring to in case anyone is looking for a pretty concise fertilizing schedule. Credit going to garycinchicago for the OP. Thank you gary!

Posted by garycinchicago Z5 Chicago IL. (My Page) on
Sat, Jun 20, 09 at 1:31

> "The pre-emergent I applied last fall, and which I was planning on applying again this fall, only contains Dimension, no fertilizer. In the spring, the product I put down I think was both a fertilizer and a crabgrass preventer combo (from the HD)."

OK, thanks for the fill in. Like i said, I feel you have the right concept, just you need a little fine tuning - a little change of thought.

This is what *I* would do on LI and basically what I do in Chicago. Your zone 6, I'm 5a .. you're just a little warmer than me .. earlier and later than me.

[Keep in mind the times are generalized, not specific. Adjust accordingly for LI. but I'm close]

Spring - April 1. PreM alone, no fertilizer. Watch forsythia. When they bloom yellow, it's time!

Allow grass to green up naturally. Every year will be different. Some years spring is earlier, some are later. Some are dry, some are wet. Mother nature knows when the time is right - leave her alone, don't bother her!

May 1, when grass is actively growing - when you actually gave it a complete hair cut, cutting every blade of grass ... go ahead and fertilize. Straight fertilizer, no step numbers. You pick which one (I'm cheap - I buy what's on sale like Scotts, Bill's, Joe's, Pete's etc - names, scnames. The main thing is nitrogen.)

June 1, 4th of July, go ahead and drop that Milorganite. The lawn will love the iron.

End of June - July 4, GrubX. Some will say don't apply unless you are sure you have grubs! I contend, don't drive unless you have insurance. Grab damage is BRUTAL. GrubX is cheap insurance.

August's step #16 / Summerguard. Skip this. What's this protect you from, mosquitoes, house flys? It's too hot to fertilize. You end up stressing the lawn forcing it to grow when conditions aren't favorable for growing (notice now how you aren't mowing twice a week like you were in spring?)Your protected from grubs - you're good to go.

Maintain irrigation throughout summer.

Labor Day - whatcha got laying around. Turf Builder? That's fine - go ahead, temperatures are dropping which means favorable growing conditions again.

PreM - now's the time to drop prevention against poa! Poa germinates when soil temps drop below 70 degrees.

So like I said - whatcha got? Use it then. Still have preM alone and fertilizer alone, then you make two drops that day. Have Dimension w/fertilizer left over? Then that's what you use on or around Labor Day.

Mid October - again, search the garage, use what you have. Did you buy the big bag of turf builder and still have some left? That's fine - USE IT! Don't fall for the marketing hype and names like "Winterizer" because that's a crock! In October, it's perfectly fine to apply a starter fertilizer too, *IF* your soil need the added phosphorous. University studies have proven that turf wants Nitrogen in fall, so it can store it as carbohydrates over winter to be used the following spring, NOT potash, which is what 'Winterizier' is full of. http://www.agry.purdue.edu/turf/tips/2008/09_03fallfert.html

Now last thing and if you truly want to walk on the dark side of lawn geektom. Once top growth has stopped, when you make that final, last cut of the year, when you cut up mostly leaves not grass - drop the secret potion, Nitrogen. This needs to be fast release nitrogen, 46-0-0 urea (cheap, $23 for 50Lbs at Lesco) Urea is very strong and can cause nitrogen burn if too warm but not now because we're talking what? Thanksgiving? It's too cool outside for that to happen.

The urea will not be used that fall but rather absorbed and then stored in the root system of the turf as carbohydrates until spring, when mother nature says "Wake up - it's time!" as noted above, LOL!!!!

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clipped on: 04.11.2012 at 12:06 pm    last updated on: 04.11.2012 at 12:06 pm

RE: Effective Preventative Lawn Fungicide (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: andy10917 on 02.05.2012 at 01:23 pm in Lawn Care Forum

You have to make a decision about what you're trying to do. If you apply chemical fungicides, you will kill the good fungi with the bad fungi, and the good ones keep the bad ones under control. Long term, the use of chemical fungicides will lead you to a dependence on fungicides, because there will be no natural predators keeping the bad fungi at bay. If you want to focus on the long-term control, consider proactive controls like "Serenade" and Phosphite (not Phosphate) fertilizers/controls. They require regular application every few weeks, but I have gone to zero fungus problems (from many) after two years on the regimen. Your call...

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clipped on: 03.08.2012 at 04:52 pm    last updated on: 03.08.2012 at 04:52 pm

RE: Tall Perinial/Shrub that flowers (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: Dayscapes_z7a_MD on 11.20.2011 at 11:18 pm in Perennials Forum

Hydrangea paniculata 'Limelight'
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Hydrangea 'Preziosa'
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Echinacea varieties
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Mixed perennial border (tall perennials) - echinacea, phlox, russian sage, rudbeckia
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clipped on: 11.30.2011 at 10:33 am    last updated on: 11.30.2011 at 10:33 am

New To Kitchens? Posting Pics? Read Me! [Help keep on Page 1]

posted by: buehl on 09.18.2011 at 04:00 pm in Kitchens Forum

Welcome! If you are new to the Kitchens Forum, you may find the following information and links helpful.

The Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)/Articles pages contain helpful information about how to navigate this site as well as the world of kitchen renovations.

The Kitchen Forum Acronyms will help you understand some of the acronyms used frequently in posts.

The Finished Kitchens Blog has pictures and information about many GW members' finished kitchens. Not only can you see them alphabetically, but there is also a category list if you're looking for specific things like a kitchen w/a Beverage Center or a kitchen w/a mix of dark and light cabinets. Access the FKB Categories Page via a link in the navigation panel on the right of any FKB page. Additionally, there is also a link to "In-Progress Kitchens" for those members' kitchens that are not quite ready for the FKB. There is also a link to "Coming Soon Kitchens" for those kitchens that are ready for the FKB but have not yet been added. To access the "In-Progress Kitchens", the "Coming Soon Kitchens", and the "FKB Categories", see the links in the navigation panel that is on the right side of each main FKB page.

The Appliances Forum is very useful when you have questions specific to appliances.

To start off the kitchen remodel process...take the Sweeby Test. Then, move on to Beginning a Kitchen Plan.

Other topics such as layouts, planning for storage, and stone materials are discussed in later topics in this thread. Even more information can be found by doing a search on the forum.

Tips:

  • Before posting a question, please search the forum. There's a very good chance someone has already asked the question.

  • When using the "search" function, be sure to use the search box on the bottom of the page, not the top!

  • Note, however, that you will probably have better luck searching if you use Google (or similar search engine) than if you use the Forum search function. When using Google, to limit your results to Garden Web, include the following in your search criteria: ***site:ths.gardenweb.com

  • In the Subject, the site changes the double quote used as the inches indicator (") to a single quote ('). We don't know why. To compensate, use two single quotes and it will appear as a double quote in the Subject. Luckily, the double quote works in the message box.

  • When composing a new thread, you have a couple of options:

    • Have replies emailed to you: check the box offering this option. However, you must have "Allow other users to send you email via forms at our site." box checked in your profile for this to work (see the "Your Profile" link at the very top of the page) [See the post later in this thread with the Subject: Getting Emails Sent To You...3-step Process]

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  • When using the "Clip this post" option (far upper right corner of each post, small print), remember that only the current post is clipped, not the entire thread. Also, you are allowed a maximum of 50 clippings. Once you reach this max, you will no longer be able to clip or email posts.


How are the home page and the Forum organized? (based on the Kitchen Forum's FAQs entries)

  • The Kitchens Forum home page lists 30 thread titles, starting with those that don't yet have a response. After the unanswered threads, threads are listed in order of most recent response. That first page displays the last 2 hours or so of activity. (If there is no response to a thread in an hour or two, the unanswered thread usually starts to drop.)
  • Below the thread list are page numbers 1-67 for the total 67 pages of threads available -- capturing maybe 2 months or so of threads, less when the Forum is busy.
  • Below that (and at the top of the thread list as well) is a space for you to switch to the Conversations or Gallery "sides" - these are set up similarly but are not nearly as active.
  • Next down is a Search box -- very important! This is also the Search box you should use (not the one at the top of the page.)
    • Always refresh the page two or three times b/f assuming a thread has disappeared right after starting it.
    • As to searching...a thread will not be found doing a GW search for up to 24 hours after it has been started. This may seem too technical, but...searches are done against what are known as "indexes". Indexes use key fields/words to find things. iVillage only indexes threads once a day. So, that means that until your thread is "indexed", it won't show up in a search. If you start a thread just before the index is taken, you will be able to retrieve your thread by searching soon after creation. If, however, you start your thread right after the daily index, then you will have to wait almost 24 hours for the next index.

  • Next is a place for you to start a new thread. And finally there are some instructions and links at the bottom.


Kitchen Forum "Sides"

Discussions: This is the "side" you are on. It is for on-topic discussions concerning kitchens...renovations, use of, etc.

Conversations: This is the "side" where you can post off topic threads such as regional get-togethers and non-kitchen subjects.

Gallery: This is the "side" where members often post pictures...especially if you're posting a lot or a finished kitchen. (Note: This is where StarPooh, our FKB person, wants you to post your finished kitchen prior to having it added to the FKB.)


Again, welcome and good luck! The journey is wild, sometimes bumpy, but fun and very rewarding in the end!

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clipped on: 10.31.2011 at 03:58 pm    last updated on: 10.31.2011 at 03:58 pm

RE: where can I find 'Swamp Monster'? (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: don_r on 10.11.2011 at 08:28 pm in Hosta Forum

Some similar huge puckered greens are North Pacific High, Puckered Giant, Jurassic Park, and Pebbled Jade. Similar bluish heavily puckered giants are Steve Moldovan, Millennium, Sea Blue Monster, and Blueberry Waffles.

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clipped on: 10.12.2011 at 05:49 pm    last updated on: 10.12.2011 at 05:49 pm

RE: Need opinion of carefree combination (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: pizzuti on 10.06.2011 at 10:23 pm in Perennials Forum

I don't know where you are located... but many of the things you list are drought-tolerant but not xeric in all places.

You could also use some height on that list!

FOR FULL SUN:

Taller plants:

Hollyhocks
Caryopteris clandonensis (Blue mist spirea)
Agastache rupestris (hummingbird mint)
Penstemons (many kinds)
Perovskia atriplicifolia (Russian sage)

Medium-height plants:

Centranthus ruber (Jupiter's beard)
Bearded iris
Day lilies
Sedum telphium 'Autumn joy'
Liatris punctata (most xeric liatris available)
Lavender
Stachys byzantina (Lambs ear)

Short plants:

Spreading sedums (any kind)
Cerastium (snow in summer)
Phlox sublata (creeping phlox)

FOR PART SHADE/EDGE OF SHADE:

Tall:
Alliums (many kinds)

Medium:

Labs ear again (it tolerates full sun to full shade)
Aquilegia (Columbines... many kinds)

Short:

Salvia 'may night'
Oregano (many kinds, some have amazing pink flowers)

FOR SHADE:

Tall:
Daphne x burkwoodii 'Carol Mackie'

Medium:
Geranium macrorhizzum ("wild geranium")

Short:
Bergenia
Ajuga reptans
Hellebore

I'm in the Denver area so "xeric" here can be very dry. The plants I listed do well with just a couple supplemental waterings per year. Not all of them are normally listed as being drought-tolerant yet I find they are anyway. Also, here you can often take a "full-sun" plant that is NOT drought tolerant, move it to part shade or shade, and grow it xeric; we have little summer cloud cover in Colorado so it makes up for shade, plus that allows it to survive drought.

I think the plants on this list would also not be killed by a little water if you have it.

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clipped on: 10.10.2011 at 12:18 pm    last updated on: 10.10.2011 at 12:18 pm

RE: Longest blooming perennials (Follow-Up #21)

posted by: echinaceamaniac on 09.26.2011 at 03:01 pm in Perennials Forum

They are large. I keep cutting off some of mine so it's not so wide. Maybe pruning it is why it blooms over and over. I just like the colors of Golden Jubilee and it contrasts nicely with so many other plants.

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clipped on: 09.27.2011 at 08:57 pm    last updated on: 09.27.2011 at 08:57 pm

RE: Dormant Seeding! (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: zhotster on 02.03.2008 at 07:05 am in Lawn Care Forum

lotzd79,

No problem at all. I did quite a bit of searching for this, and I found most options that combined fertilizer with Tupersan. I really didn't want that, nor did I want to pay for shipping fertilizer to my house. I ordered online from Hummert International @ www.hummert.com. I ordered the 4 lb concentrate that I can mix in my backpack sprayer. The mix itself is 1 1/2 to 4 1/2 oz. per 1,000 sq.ft. in 2 1/2 gals. of water. It's a little spendy, but I wanted to reapply 2-3 times in the spring. I plan on spot spraying the bare or thin spots that I'm seeding only.

You can buy Tupersan mixed with fertilizer in bags covering 5,000 sq feet for $35 or so per bag. It made more sense to me to buy the concentrate. The fertilizer mix I found is made by Preen and it's called the "New Lawn Crabgrass Preventer Plus Seed Starter Fertilizer". It's also sold by Greenview under a similar name.

There may be a less expensive way to find this concentrate, I'd love to hear of one. I did look over the net a few times this winter and felt the need to pull the trigger this weekend.

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clipped on: 09.27.2011 at 02:55 pm    last updated on: 09.27.2011 at 02:55 pm

RE: Sudden brown patches in newly planted grass (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: tiemco on 06.18.2010 at 09:48 pm in Lawn Care Forum

Perhaps the most effective and fastest way to deal with fungal disease, including pythium, is a fungicide called Heritage G. It's granular, so no messy liquids, and lasts 3-4 weeks between applications. You can find it online, Lesco also carries it. It isn't cheap, about one hundred bucks for 30 lbs, but it's rate is 4 lbs./1000 square feet, so if you have a small yard it will last you 2-3 months. Home Depot carries two turf antifungals, but they are marginal at best. If you don't want to go the chemical route then just cut out the area of disease to prevent spread, unfortunately the fungus is in the soil, so it can affect your seedlings at any time.

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clipped on: 09.27.2011 at 10:41 am    last updated on: 09.27.2011 at 10:41 am

RE: How are those limelight hedges looking? (pic) (Follow-Up #30)

posted by: unprofessional on 09.10.2011 at 09:09 am in Hydrangea Forum

Year 3 update. Limelights really took off this year, but with increased number of panicles, panicle size did indeed go down. Hedge is looking gorgeous - some of the plants are already 6' wide.

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clipped on: 09.12.2011 at 01:01 pm    last updated on: 09.12.2011 at 01:04 pm